2022 KTM 450 SX-F What Would You Do?

People always ask, “what would you do to your own bike”? Most of the time that question gets answered at the track or through email, but I thought I would put it out there for the world to see through my site. The KTM 450 SX-F is one of my favorite bikes to ride and race. In stock form the 2022 KTM 450 SX-F has an easier to ride smooth roll-on power than other 450s in its class and that lets the rider get on the throttle sooner through corners. The stock suspension is decent but needs some better lean angle front end traction, more consistency in the front end and more hold up (high speed compression) on the shock. Not all of my builds need to be extravagant, so I thought why not build a machine strictly on what the bike “needs” to make it even more fun to ride/race. Below is a parts list that I have created on parts that I strictly wanted personally on my 2022 KTM 450 SX-F. Since the 22 KTM 450 SX-F is virtually unchanged from the 2021 version, there is no need to do a FIRST RIDE! 

Parts List: 

 FMF 4.1 

Titanium 4.1 Muffler System 

Fmfracing.com

WP/REP Pro Components

CV Fork Re-Valve (REP Spec)

Trax Shock (REP Spec) 

1mm Longer Shock Shaft

REP Knuckle/Rods

Repsuspension.com 

KTM

Factory Split Clamps

Ktm.com

Vortex ECU

Mapped By XPR Motorsports

XPRMotorsports.com

VP Racing

MR PRO 6 HT

Vpracing.com 

Pro Taper

EVO SX Race Bend

Protaper.com

 Dunlop

MX3S Front Tire (80/100-21) 13.5 PSI

MX33 Rear Tire (120/80-19 12.5 PSI

Dunlopmotorcyclestires.com

ZRT

Zero Resistance Aluminum Throttle 

Zrtthrottle.com

Twisted Development 

Exhaust Flange

Td-racing.com 

Although this parts list isn’t long, it is distinguished. The REP Pro Component suspension done up by Mark at REP has given me a lot more confidence in pushing this KTM 450 SX-F in longer motos under rougher conditions. REP has some unique parts that go inside the WP Pro Components which they make personally. The Pro Component (Cone Valve) fork now gives me more lean angle grip through corners and added comfort when the track gets rougher. I couldn’t say that with the stock AER fork, because it wasn’t consistent like this spring pro component REP fork. I always had a problem with my KTM’s riding rear end low, but with REP’s longer shock shaft accompanied by their linkage system, my new Garage Build has a balance that I have never had before. To go with my newfound balanced suspension package, I turned to Chad at XPR Motorsports to tune a programmable Vortex ECU for more excitement down low yet keep that stock linear character that I like so much. With the ECU installed along with Twisted Development’s exhaust flange the KTM now has a controlled snap out of corners that gives me the ability to hop over bumps better as well as gives the KTM a lighter feel. Did I mention it revved out like a 250? Yeah, that too! An FMF 4.1 exhaust rounds out the engine package and lightens up the KTM by over a pound, so there’s your bling. Sneaky mods that are a must have to me are a ZRT throttle that gives you a smoother overall feel and is much stronger than the plastic lock on system that KTM comes stock with. The ZRT is controlled via a bearing and that bearing gives you an unbelievable easier to use throttle even when your throttle cables get worn (which they will do around the 20-hour mark). These changes that I made make a huge difference and gets me excited to ride even when I am tired from a long week of testing. I don’t need all the bling with my bikes to get me excited, I just need a bike that performs out on the track and allows me to ride faster. I am more of a function over fashion type of rider with my machines and this KTM is now my type of vet racing 450. 

On My Own Dime: 2022 Honda CRF450R

Rider: Chris “Checkerz” Riesenberg

Age: 35

Skill Level: Vet Int.

Weight: 300+

Bike: 2022 Honda CRF450R

Previous Bike: 2019 Honda CRF450R

 After over 8 years of absolutely zero riding, and basically 12 years since I could even be classified as a weekend warrior; Kris Keefer re-ignited the fire within all of us crazy moto guys.  An invite to the 2019 Keefer Tested 450 Shootout meant it was time to toss my leg over a bike again.  Two years later, I’m back at the track nearly every weekend tossing out air wheelies (mostly on purpose) and butt whips with my buddies and I even line up behind the gate every now and again.  Once upon a time I would show up and be the fast guy at the track, but these days I’ve been relegated to a mid-pack Vet Intermediate.  Enough about me, let’s dig into the real reason you clicked this… the 2022 Honda CRF450R.

Before we begin, I really have two benchmarks to compare the 2022 CRF450R to… my previous bike, the 2019 Honda CRF450R and my 2019 Keefer Shootout “winning” pick, the Yamaha YZ450F. My buddy owns one of these and we swap bikes often.  These are rapid reactions as I have only a couple of hours on the bike I purchased down at Storm Lake Honda right when they became available.

 BIGGEST IMPROVEMENT

I really enjoyed my 2019 Honda CRF450R, especially on stadium style and indoor tracks.  The more aggressive I was, the better the bike felt; but it was just simply rigid.  A really good suspension setting certainly helped, and I was shocked that the Works Chassis Lab intermediate mounts/hangers made a very noticeable difference… but it still was harsh.  

The 2022 Honda CRF450 has none of that rigidness and I can go noticeably longer before my arms are shot. It still delivers a very connected feeling to the terrain under you which is important to me as a rider who heavily relies on front end feel and steering.

THE SURPRISE

From reading the reviews, shootouts, and tests; I had a pretty good idea that the chassis rigidity was going to be much improved.  I basically was expecting a more comfortable version of my 2019 model.  What I found is what puts this bike in the running to potentially become the favorite bike I’ve ever owned.

Back in the 2019 Shootout, the Honda ranked 4thfor me.  I bought one because I have a great dealer relationship, and I’ve never ridden anything except Hondas since I was on CR80s back in the 90’s.  Number one for me was the Yamaha YZ450 because it had an amazingly smooth power delivery that made it easy to go fast and the suspension and chassis was connected yet comfortable.  Honda made huge strides with the chassis on the 2022, but the surprise was definitely the smooth, linear power delivery.

All last year I struggled with rutted turns on my 2019.  I would either turn out too soon or the front wheel would want to pop over the rut.  I could help this problem by running in the slower “vet” map, but then my big ass would have to work a lot harder to get the “oomf” out of corners to clear some of the bigger jumps.  I typically elected to run the standard map 1 and mostly thought my cornering issues were rider skill issues.

Alas, I hopped on the 2022 Honda CRF450R and immediately I was able to rail ruts like it was 2004 again and I was at the top of my game.  In fact, last night I drug a bar in a rut for maybe the first time in my life. It was amazing.  The 2022 Honda CRF450R goes where you want it to go, is nimble, and the power is predictable, smooth, and there is plenty of it.  I’m excited to ride it back to back with my buddy’s YZ450 to see which power delivery I prefer.  I’ll report back in a future update about that.

(NOTE:  This feedback is all standard map 1 without TC turned on.  I have enjoyed it so much I haven’t even had a chance to play around with the other settings… sorry Keefer, I’ll work on being a better tester!)

TO BE IMPROVED

Being a Honda rider my whole life, I haven’t spent a ton of time on a hydraulic clutch.   I’ve previously been pretty hard on clutches by feathering it instead of using throttle control.  The trend continued on my 2019 CRF450R because of trying to control the massive power hit in corners.  The times I’ve been on bikes with a hydraulic clutch, I was indifferent to having one or not. So far on the new Honda, I like the hydraulic clutch and I am tending to abuse it less.  Most of that I believe is due to the smooth power and the effectiveness of the clutch when you tap it.

So why is it under “to be improved?”  It isn’t the clutch action, but the lever.  From the showroom the lever came adjusted extremely far from the bar making it a reach even with my big hands.  It does have a good bit of adjustment to move the lever and I was able to move it in.  However, once adjusted in, the lever pulls to my fingers right at the engagement point. I had to compromise running it a bit further out to ensure I’m getting full engagement when pulling in the clutch. I’ve also always really loved the feel and shape of the Works Connection levers; however, they don’t make a clutch lever for the 2022 Honda CRF450R.

FINAL QUICK THOUGHTS

·       In my opinion, Honda continues to have the most comfortable rider triangle on the market.

·       The stock suspension is impressive.  I’m far from the ideal weight and normally avoid riding stock suspension at all costs.  Even hitting some fairly large jumps I’m not fully bottoming, and it has good comfort.  It definitely can use some work on the shock in the bumps for me, but that’s expected when you are over 100lbs heavier than the “ideal” weight for the setup.

·       All red is sexy.  It’s tough to beat the look of a Honda.  I take pride in creating unique looks for my bikes, but I found it super challenging to find a better look than stock.  We’ll see if I’m able to pull it off.

WHAT’S NEXT?

First off, I need to get suspension dialed in for me.  I’m way too heavy for stock suspension and it honestly makes me nervous riding with it. I’ll be swinging up to my local Race Tech Service Center, PDR Performance to get RT Springs and Gold Valves with personalized valving put in.

Beyond that, I don’t see a need for performance parts currently; so, I’ll be focused on “look good, ride good” elements.  I have plastic and graphics on order for a unique look and my Guts Racing seat cover just came in the mail.  No bike of mine is complete without bling from Works Connection, and we’ll add a handful of their protection goodies on there too.

Down the road, when it snows up here in Minnesota, I typically do a full overhaul on my bike. The goal is to put enough hours on my 2022 before then to justify doing just that over winter.  With the extra downtime I’ll likely send my forks out to SGB Racing to get some sweet looking coatings done, design a new plastic/graphics scheme, and will look into updating any weaknesses I find with the bike.

2022 Honda CRF250R First Impression

The media hasn’t been to a fly away introduction since pre pandemic times, so it was nice that Honda invited all of the media to Mt. View motocross park in Sandy, Oregon to try out their new 2022 CRF250R. I mentioned in Racerhead last week that there is always one bike that is the most anticipated of each model year release and this year it was the new CRF250R. Honda made significant changes to the CRF250R’s engine, chassis, a weight loss program, as well as suspension settings, but changing a bunch of things doesn’t always mean that it’s better right? Instead of flying out there for a couple days, I decided to make a road trip out of it and bring my son as well as a couple friends for a few days to enjoy the cooler temps of the PNW. Getting to ride in the Pacific Northwest in the summer is much better than riding in the Southern California inferno. so thank you Honda for getting us out of Hell’s Kitchen! Here are ten things you need to know after riding the CRF250R up in the pines of Oregon. 

Engine: The 2022 Honda has more bottom to mid range torque, which makes it a much more friendlier vet 250F machine. I am a huge proponent of using third gear in corners and that is one of the reasons why I love the Yamaha YZ250F so much. The Honda is not quite on par with the Yamaha down low, but it is much closer than before. The CRF250R has an exciting low to mid rpm response and pulls far through the top end. It almost has as much top end/over-rev of a KTM 250 SX-F, yet pulls harder down low than the orange bike. If the Yamaha and KTM had a baby, the Honda CRF250R would be born. Its power is a blend of both machines and much more fun to ride than previous red models. The Honda also has more of a free revving feel to it (similar to a KTM) and is easier to get back into the meat of the power if you make a mistake.

Chassis: We all know Honda has one of the best cornering chassis’ out there, but it wouldn’t hurt to get some added compliance and straight line stability from the Honda right? The 2022 gives you a little more of a forgiving feel on throttle while leaning. Think of a time where you need to go wide into a corner and then start angling back to get to the inside. This is where this updated 2022 chassis is better than previous years. I get some added contact feeling on lean angle that I didn’t have with the older chassis, which I find important if you want to keep momentum on a smaller cc’d bike.

Suspension: With the added power and lighter weight the suspension has been revised and to me has slightly more comfort, but that could be some of the newfound chassis comfort talking as well. Even though the Mt. View track wasn’t the best to test suspension on, but I did manage to get a feel of what we think could be a setting to leans toward. The front end wasn’t as soft as I expected it to be for my weight (170), but I did go two clicks stiffer on the fork and this helped keep the front end from diving too much on de-cel. This only worked if I dropped the sag setting to 107mm and turned in the high speed compression in a 1/4 turn. After these adjustments were made the balance of the motorcycle was much improved and the CRF250R settled into corners even better. 

Cooling: The thicker water pump propeller as well as the new radiator louvers cool down the unit much better than the 2021 bike! Not once did I see coolant puking out of any test bikes during the time I was at the introduction. I couldn’t have said that in previous years

Clutch: The nine plate clutch system holds up way better to abuse than the old eight plate system. Don’t tell Honda this but I was more abusive towards the cutch when I went out then I needed to be just so I could see what damage (or heat) I could do to the clutch. It held up fine and the bike was in a constant state of rotating between riders for six hours with minimal fade. I couldn’t say that last year. 

Weight Feeling: With the claimed eight pounds that the 2022 lost, you can definitely feel some of that when you start your lean into corners as well as when you want to stand up around the whole corner. I have always felt like I could stand up more on the Honda than other machines (besides the KTM), but the 2022 just gives me that feeling even more. Maybe this will not grab your attention that much, but it’s nice to have that lightweight feel while trying to maneuver you and your bike in ruts while standing.

Tires: Having Pirelli on an OEM is huge news. Dunlop has dominated OEM’s for years, but with weight in mind, Honda decided to try the Pirelli MX32 Mid-Soft tires n the 250R and they work well. I do wish that the 1.85 rear wheel came equipped with a 2.15 and a 110 rear tire, but I am fine with the performance of the Pirelli. The carcass feel of Pirelli’s rubber absorbs a lot of the track before it gets to your suspension and I like that feeling out here on the west coast. I do know that the Pirelli carcass will not last as long as the Dunlop, but these tires are built on performance, not durability.

Action And Reaction (Shock)

With every action there is a reaction right? This is no different when it comes to dirt bikes and the mechanics of each change/adjustment. Since suspension is always a hot topic with motocross machines, I thought why not give you guys some insight on what each change point/adjustment available to you is on the shock, as well as what it can do out on the track (good or bad). The action of one change can have reaction on the opposite end of the machine as well, not just the focused area. Here is a breakdown of action and reaction, shock edition. If you’re looking for the “fork” portion of this article, check it out here: https://www.keeferinctesting.com/offroad-testing/2021/6/22/action-and-reaction-fork

Shock: 

Low Speed Compression: Low speed compression damping will allow your shock’s stroke to stiffen or soften when compressed at lower load situations. 

Action/Stiffer: Stiffening the LSC can allow your bike’s ride attitude to be flatter with less pitching on/off throttle, can help with wallow feeling through rollers, can help keep rear end down on initial bump impact, bump absorption can improve if shock is riding too low in the stroke, give the rider a firmer feel to allow them to ride more aggressively (more performance).

Reaction/Stiffer: Going too stiff can cause harshness or a too firm feel when hitting bumps, can cause deflection when shock is light in its stroke (off throttle situations), can cause less rear wheel traction (especially on lean angle), can give rider a less plush feel on bump impact, less movement in rear end which can give a rigid feel through seat, can overpower fork and allow bike to be front end heavy down hills.

Action/Softer: Softening the LSC can increase plushness, allow the shock to move further down in the stroke under load or increase comfort on initial bump impact, make the action of the stroke faster, can increase rear wheel traction (especially on lean angle), give a more supple feel through the seat when accelerating out of choppy corners. 

Reaction/Softer: Allow the shock to go through stroke too much (low rear feel), which can create a fast moving rear end feel, less damping feel on bump impact, create a low rear end feel that allows the rear end to kick you on braking bumps (which can make transfer of weight to front end, too abrupt off throttle), oversteering through area 2 of corners because rear end unloads to fast on de-cel which causes front end to knife, make fork feel too high on throttle, which can make fork deflect, causes shock tp bottoming more than 2-3 times per lap.

High Speed Compression: High speed compression damping will allow your shock’s stroke to stiffen or soften when compressed at high-speed load situations, but can also can act like a secondary ride height.  

Action/Stiffer: Depending on if you’re a Showa, KYB, or WP rider will depend on how much you will want adjust the HSC knob to feel a difference. A Showa shock is more sensitive to turns than that of a WP or KYB shock. I would adjust HSC on a Showa shock by 1/6 turns to feel a difference versus a 1/4 turns on a WP/KYB shock. Going to a stiffer HSC setting on your shock will raise your rear end and give you more hold up in g-outs, up faces of jumps, out of corners (on-throttle) as well as create more front end bite when entering into corners (area 1-2). Adjusting the high speed is sometimes scary to weekend riders, but shouldn’t be feared as it is one of the most notable changes you can make to your shock. Adjusting the HSC can give a  rider a plusher feeling if he/she is too low in the stroke. Increasing HSC can get you out of the harsh portion of the shock’s stroke if you’re too low on accel/de-cel. HSC can make the ride attitude of the bike more balanced front to rear.

Reaction/Stiffer: Negative affects of going stiffer on HSC can range from deflection on/off throttle, rigidity feeling up, low front end feel, too firm of a feel when hitting bumps on acceleration, harsh feeling through your feet, oversteer (knifing on lean angle), allow the bike’s ride attitude to be too front end low/rear end high and cause kicking on de-cel as well as nose end heavy off jumps.

Action/Softer: Softening the HSC can increase plushness on braking bumps, give the bike a flatter overall feel when chopping throttle in soft dirt, allow the shock to move further down in the stroke under heavy load, make the action of the stroke faster (less damping feel), can increase rear wheel traction (especially on lean angle/more tire contact patch), give a more supple feel to the hands through the pegs. 

Reaction/Softer: Allow the fork to ride too high in the stroke, can cause front end pushing through corners, fork deflection, create a low rear end feel that can make the rear of the bike wallow through rollers/waves, causes too much pitching on/off throttle (teeter totter movement), harsh feeling (firm) around the track because the shock is riding in the stiffer part of the stroke/damping (mid-stroke), unbalanced feel around track (more comfort in rear end with less comfort on fork). 

Rebound: The rebound damping allows the shock’s shaft to move faster/slower when compressed/released. It can also act as a type of damping force as well. 

Action/Faster: More rear end traction because the shock is moving faster, which in turn is causing the rear tire to get back to the ground quicker over bumps/square edges, can help straight line stability, can increase plushness through the beginning to mid stroke, can help get more lift off jumps.  

Reaction/Faster: Can cause side to side movement on throttle under slight lean angle (edge of tire), could make shock feel too soft/low on acceleration bumps (diving), can cause pushing sensation of rear tire through area 2-3 (middle to end) under throttle, can put too much weight on front end through corners.

Action/Slower: Can allow for more damping feel (firmer), slow the rear end down off throttle which can give you increased front end traction in ares 2 (middle) of corners, more planted feeling coming into deep braking bumps, less movement of the initial stroke/under throttle while hitting acceleration bumps, can allow bike to soak up jump faces more (less air).

Reaction/Slower: Can give rider a harsher feeling on/off throttle when hitting bumps, could make shock feel too firm on acceleration through choppy bumps (too high/harsh), can give less rear wheel traction on hard pack chop, front end high feel off jumps, can cause a ride attitude that is too low off throttle, that low feeling can give the rider less cornering stability through choppy ruts because it will pack and give the front tire less contact patch.

Sag: The sag measurement is important because it gives the correct preload on the shock spring for your weight. Sag is also important because it gives the bike its intended ride attitude when designed. 

Action: Getting the correct ride height (or sag) is crucial because when the bike is designed, it’s designed with the a certain amount of preload. The chassis will not act like it is intended (when developed) if the sag is not set to the correct setting. Having the correct sag will give you the ride attitude/balance around the track. 

Reaction: If you’re sag is too high, the rear of the bike can be harsh/deflect on square edge, cause the front end to be too heavy (or low feeling) off throttle, front end oversteer in corners, as well as give the balance of the motorcycle a stinkbug feel. Having the sag too low can allow your front end to be vague in corners (less front end bite), give the rider less rear wheel traction out of corners (under load) and could even cause more pitching on/off throttle. If you’re looking for a little more front end bite or more front end steering then try going up slightly (less sag) on your preload. If you want more stability on faster tracks or on deep sand tracks try going with more sag (rear end lower) for increase stability and a less front end heavy feel. 

Go Ride With Your Dad While You Can (Riding The 2021 Husqvarna FC250)

I never really got to ride with my dad that much because by the time I figured out that I wanted to ride all the time, my dad was too busy dumping his money/time into me. Now that I get to ride with my son a bunch, it makes me realize how lucky I am to share my passion with him. Kellen works for Racer X and I have got to know him over the past 18 months or so. When we would be on assignment, I noticed he was riding an older yet very clean Honda CR250, so I offered up a newer four stroke for him to shred around on. Little did I know that he and his dad shared the same passion that my son and I did and over the past year, he has got to spend that time riding with his father Bob. It’s amazing how dirt bikes can bring a family together even when father/son are both older with busy schedules of their own. Here’s Kellen’s story about riding with his dad and a little bit about the Husqvarna FC250. -KK

Go Ride With Your Dad While You Can 
By Kellen Brauer

Two weekend’s ago, I got to spend my first Father’s Day as a Dad. And one week after that, I was able to roll a Strider around the corner for my daughter Hollie who was turning one-year-old. She’s not big enough for a Strider yet but we sat her on it with pads and a helmet and pushed her around while she had a massive smile on her face. It’s the type of moment I had always hoped for when I thought about what it would be like to be a Father while I was coming of age.

To have a passion for motorcycles is something that many of us get instilled in us at a young age. When you watch the High Point National and see all of the top pros talk about when they first got on a dirt bike and how their Dad’s rode or raced and it was something they always wanted to do, I’m no different in that regard. And while there are some exceptions, almost everyone I ride with has the exact same story. We wanted to be like our Dads and ride dirt bikes.

I’m 28 now and I still want to go with my Dad to the track every time. He’s 65 and I know his times of riding motocross tracks are waning and instead he’s been more enthusiastic about dual-sporting and the adventure experience lately. His interest in that has peaked mine and while I still very much enjoy ripping with my buddies at the motocross track, I’d gladly take a day in the hills with my Dad over that any day.

As I’ve now become a father, my acknowledgement that the time fleeting I will have to get to ride with my Dad is becoming more obvious. I very much hope he still has another 20 years of riding in him, and we get to experience so much more together, but you really just never know. The recent passing of Rocky Aiello, who worked at KTM North America as a national sales manager, hit me pretty hard. His son Kai is just 20 years old and the family lives pretty close by to me here in Temecula. 

Kellen and his pops getting ready to do some riding together.

I remember seeing Kai just about four or five months ago out at Cahuilla Creek MX Park. Kai is a great rider with good technique and he’s blazing fast too. He’s no question one of the best local pros who consistently rides out here in Southern California. But when I saw him at Cahuilla that day, Kai was just cruising around the vet track and urging along some younger riders. I don’t remember seeing his Dad nearby, but I remember thinking that there’s a kid who was raised to enjoy more about motocross than just the individual feeling of going fast and riding an adrenaline high. He understood the comradery involved and how great this sport can be when you share the experience with others around you.

That’s a lesson I learned from my Dad, but it’s not one he sat down and taught me about. It’s one that I got to learn through experience. When we would wake up at four in the morning to load up on a Sunday to go to the races, those two or three hour drives to the track were equally as valuable to me as the actual motocross racing I got to do those days. Being able to just talk to my Dad about all the things he lived in his years behind the handlebars were priceless interactions.

Growing up in San Diego and going to Carlsbad for the USGP in the 1970s and 1980s. Getting his first dirt bike when he was 13 years old, very much against his mother’s wishes, and being able to go riding with the other kids in the neighborhood. Picking his brain about all the different bikes he’s been able to ride over the years. Asking him about being inside Angel Stadium for the 1986 Supercross opener classic. Him telling me about seizing up his CR500 on the Carlsbad drag strip and sliding on his back for a few hundred feet after laying the bike down. The stories go on and on, and they are some of my favorite stories in motocross. But they are all stories that nobody knows about because it was just a guy from San Diego named Bob Brauer that had a passion for dirt bikes and rode whenever he got the chance. He wasn’t the superstars of motocross from those days that we talk about today, but he’s the most important figure for my passion and love of motocross.

Sometimes I feel that the father-son or father-daughter connection gets lost as the younger reaches adulthood and naturally wants to break away from their parents. And unfortunately, when you reach your 30s or 40s and yearn for those days when you could go ride with your dad at the track, time has already taken away that opportunity. Too often we get caught up in the hustle and bustle of life to stop and soak in the moments that are going to mean a lot to us when we get older.

This past year for example, Keefer gave me the opportunity to take this 2021 Husqvarna FC 250 for the year and go ride it. I obviously had a ton of fun getting to rip around some new equipment and see how great modern dirt bikes are, but I also had a blast letting my dad hop on it and see his thoughts. My window of expectation on motorcycle feel is so much narrower than his. He came from the era where dirt bikes were dual shock with six inches of suspension travel and even if you had the leg of god himself, bikes were still practically a coin toss to get running. Now he just threw his leg over the bike, pressed a button, and off he went. He can adjust fuel mapping on the go, quickly adjust fork pressure or spring rate, and feel perfect delivery of fuel through injectors. All stuff that isn’t new or anything, but it’s all stuff that is so farfetched from what he grew up on. And of course, he comes back from riding it and gives me a laundry list of things he likes or doesn’t like and what he would do different. Meanwhile, I’m just happy watching him still ripping around a motocross track. It’s experiences like that that are so invaluable in motocross. 

Bob Brauer shredding his old, yet very new looking KX250 smoker

Not everyone has the same stories, or the same opportunities to still go ride with your Dad. I feel for those people. I genuinely hope that those of you who no longer have a chance to load up and head to the track with your Dad anymore got so many great stories and experiences to last a lifetime out of the years that going to the track with your Dad was the norm. But my assertion to those of you who still can go to the track with your Dad but choose not to more often than not in favor of your buddies or just wanting to be your own person, is please at least try to go riding with your Dad a few times a year. Never forget where your passion started.

Top 5 Mods To The 2021 Suzuki RM-Z450

Just because the 2021 Suzuki RM-Z450 hasn’t changed doesn’t mean it still isn’t a viable option for a lot of riders out there. No, this isn’t the best bike off the showroom floor, but we put together what we feel is the TOP 5 MODS that will make the RM-Z450 a better motorcycle without completely draining your bank account.

Full Or Slip On Muffler System: The 2021 Suzuki RM-Z450 lacks a little bottom end pulling power, so in order to get a little more of that, the easiest thing to do is throw on a slip on or full muffler system. The PC slip on system didn't “wow” us for initial RPM response at first, but we installed the insert into the muffler and that helped back pressure enough to create some more throttle response. I liked the insert in for increased bottom to mid range throttle response without losing much top end pull. Installing this PC system helps with coming out of corners and also helps the Suzuki’s recovery time when in the wrong gear. With the stock system, the recovery time out of corners (if you were a gear too high) was embarrassing for a 450cc machine. It would be hard to get back into the meat of the power, forcing you to downshift and then immediately upshift, in order to get moving again quickly. With the PC slip on system the rider can fan the clutch lever a couple times (in the higher gear) and it helps get the Suzuki on down the track in a quicker manner. The PC system is a step in the right direction for bottom and mid range pull. It doesn’t help or negatively affect the top end at all. Yes, we would still like a little more to make us happy, but this is a mod that actually makes a difference. You can get a little more top end with the full system as the headpipe does help the top/over-rev of the yellow zook.

Ride Engineering Link: Simply installing the Ride Engineering link helped balance the RM-Z out on de-cel. If you’re running the stock suspension (valving/springs) this simple mod will help the RM-Z from wanting to transfer its weight towards the front end. The RM-Z450’s BFRC shock is known for unloading on de-cel (or riding high off throttle) and that can cause oversteer (knifing) on entrances of corners. Once you install the longer Ride Engineering link arms on the Suzuki it will settle down on de-cel and not pitch towards the front end as much. Running the sag at 107mm (fork height 4-5mm) with the link arm will alleviate some of your balance issues on the #RMaRMy. www.ride-engineering.com 

Vertex Hi Compression Piston Kit: Installing a 13.5:1 Vertex piston kit helped get some added excitement out of Suzuki’s bottom to mid range. Stock compression is 12.5:1 on the RM-Z450, but bumping the compression up to 13.5:1 allows for us to still run pump fuel safely. Where you will notice the added pull is on deeply tilled tracks or soft tracks that force the rider to get on the throttle harder. The Suzuki now feels a little “spunkier”, “livelier”, and “more fun” to ride. It also helps the chassis feel lighter when the track is tighter or when it gets rougher. It allows the rider to “pop” over bumps and makes the Suzuki feel a little more playful. For even better low end run this piston with VP T4 fuel or Renegade MX4. www.vertexpistons.com 

Hinson Clutch Kit (Basket, Pressure Plate, Inner, Fibers, Steels, Springs): The stock clutch fades quickly during motos and the clutch lever actuation (engagement) is very narrow. Once the Hinson clutch kit was installed the feel of the clutch was more positive and less vague. The Hinson also took the improved bottom end we got from the muffler/piston and transferred that power better to the rear wheel. The stock mushy lever feeling was gone and a slightly stiffer firm feel replaced it. However, it wasn’t a “Honda hard pull” feel, just a slightly firmer/more positive than the stock Suzuki pull. We have been riding with the Hinson clutch for over a few months now and that feeling hasn't changed one bit. We also have to change our clutch plates less as the Hinson set up doesn't get burned up as quickly. www.hinsonracing.com 

Optional Tuner Map: 

If you’re looking for a little more pulling power out of corners and more mid range meat from your 2021 RM-Z450, try the map out above on your MX Tuner App. This map works great with the PC system and some VP Racing T4 fuel..

Top 5 Mostly Inexpensive Mods To The 2021 Husqvarna FC450

The 2021 Husqvarna FC450 is a great machine that turns better than the KTM 450SX-F thanks in part to lower suspension, but also is also not as snappy as the KTM down low. The Husqvarna has a slightly more compliant feel with a more lethargic engine character. I wanted to see if I could make the handing traits better on the FC450 and give it a little more power! Here are 5 mods in no particular order that have helped me love the Husqvarna FC450 even more.

ZRT Throttle: How does it work? Simply put, there are two radial ball bearings on each end of the tube. One located inside the throttle housing and one on the end of the handlebars. This gives the throttle assembly an ultra smooth action and a claimed longer lifespan. Unlike the traditional FC plastic throttle tubes, the weight of the rider either pushing or pulling on the throttle will create some type of “friction”. The longer this goes on, the more the throttle and handle bars deteriorate and I have seen the right side of my bars look like slot car tracks in the past. Inserting two bearings within the throttle tube helps eliminate wear and friction, making your throttle assembly ultra smooth. So does it work? Yes, it does and sometimes too well! Sometimes! What I mean by “too well” is that it works so good that sometimes I get whiskey throttle when I get tired or have massive arm pump. This throttle is so smooth that it can be easy to grab a handful when sometimes you weren’t expecting to. However, once I got used to the buttery twist, my whiskey became less and less. This is by far the biggest difference I have felt from an aftermarket throttle tube.  The fears I had of cutting my bars and getting a different feel quickly went away when I rode out on the track. The 1/2 inch of bar loss was made up by the ZRT and my 802mm of bar width remained the same. Oh and trust me, if it didn’t feel the same, I would have felt it. Now when I go back to other test bikes that don’t have the ZRT tube on, it feels stiffer and harder to pull. We have been running the ZRT tube on our Husqvarna FC450 machine for almost 30 hours and have done nothing to it. I like that it feels as good as when we put it on and we have done zero maintenance to it.  The throttle cables on the KTM/Husqvarna kind of go to crap after 20 hours, so having the ZRT on there allows for an easier throttle pull even when your cables get worn. It is a good rule of thumb to change out your throttle cables on this bike around 25 hours or so.

      Of course there is a downside and the downside is that it costs $179.95! Now to most this is outrageous right? But to some, this costly part is worth it. For example, I would want a ZRT if I owned a KTM/Husqvarna/Gas Gas. Why? I am not a lock on grip guy, so I would normally go straight to an aftermarket throttle tube and instead of purchasing a cheaper plastic tube or an aluminum throttle, I would spend the money to get the ZRT. Yes, we know this is mostly an inexpensive mod article, but to us this think pays for itself. If you plan on keeping your bike for a few years or even if you get a new bike every year (albeit the same brand) this throttle tube is worth the cost. You can order your Zero Resistance Throttle at zrtthrottle.com. Any questions email me at kris@keeferinctesting.com

I have tested several exhaust flanges over the past several months and Twisted Development’s flange is not a gimmick! It actually helps low end pull, even if you have a stock muffler system!

Twisted Development Exhaust Flange: The Twisted Development exhaust flanges are shaped differently than the stock OEM flange, which can change the engine character of the FC450. I went through several during testing and found out a size/shape that can actually enhance the low to mid range power character. Compared to the stock piece the TD Performance flange will give you better throttle response through area 2-3 (mid to exit) of corners. Another advantage to me is that the TD flange helps pulling power out of corners as well and helps third gear lugability. The TD flange just helps the RPM’s pick up quicker, which in turn makes the KTM feel lighter when the track gets bumpy. There is no need to remap your ECU and it takes minutes to install.  

 The TD flange works with the stock headpipe/muffler system or any aftermarket system. I tried it on a stock muffler system as well as a full FMF system and with both, the TD flange helped in aforementioned areas. For $200.00 bucks, to me, it’s a great way to get a little more snap out of your FC450.

Ride Engineering One Piece Bar Mounts: Just looking at the stock FC450 bar mounts wrong can allow them to shift/bend. I have literally have come into the pits after a moto with my bars twisted and didn’t even crash. Yes, going to an aftermarket clamp like the Rockstar Edition clamp or a Ride Engineering Split Clamp helps with comfort so that should be one of the mods you should do if you’re looking for comfort, but that is also 700 bucks. The Ride Engineering One Piece bar Mount has a one-piece top that is designed to resist bending much better than the stock bar mount. Precision machined from aircraft quality aluminum, there is also a 6mm difference between the forward and back mounting positions. Ride Engineering also machines their own stainless steel posts that prevent over tightening, unlike some other competing brands that DO NOT use quality posts. This $104.95 all aluminum bar mount is sturdy enough to take some crashes, but doesn't cause any added rigidity problems. I would know because I am super sensitive to any added rigidity in my front end. The flex I got on the track (from the Ride mount) is as good as the stock flex and Ride Engineering’s rubber cones are also as flexible as stock. Ride does offer a variation of different elastomers/rubber cone compounds for a custom desired flex, just in case you need a stiffer or softer feel. The Ride Engineering Fourth Generation One Piece Mount has been refined over the years to weigh as little as possible, yet stay strong. The final product is a little heavier than stock, but for the added strength that I am getting, it’s worth its “weight” in gold. 

Air Filter Cage: OEM Part Number 50406016000. Using a two stroke filter cage without the screen will help low end RPM response and low end power delivery. For less than 20 bucks this is a great mod that actually does work! 

FASST Company Rear Brake Return Spring: I seem to break return springs on KTM’s/Husqvarna's all the time. You can use a stock Honda rear brake spring or just get the FASST Co. piece that completely removes it. The pedal resistance can be adjusted by how much preload is placed on the spring. The Return Spring Kit also minimizes debris from jamming the master cylinder as well as eliminating the stock tension return spring that attaches to the pedal. The Rear Brake Pedal Return Spring Kit consists of spring, spring bucket and nut. The spring bucket contains the spring as well as seals the master cylinder with the stock rubber dust boot. Installation takes 10 minutes and the return spring kit gives you more of a positive feel, without a lot of slop, not to mention it’s way more durable than the OEM Husqvarna or KTM rear brake pedal springs. For 20 bucks it’s an easy one time investment on something you may have to purchase every few months with the stocker. You can purchase or check out what they offer over at www.fasstco.com.

Other More Notable But More Expensive Mods That Are Effective:

FMF 4.1 Full Exhaust System (Increase Mid Range and Top End)

Vortex ECU Mapped By Chad At XPR Motorsports or Jamie at Twisted Development (More pulling power as well as response through the rpm range)

Dunlop MX3S Front Tire (Better front end lean angle grip than MX33)

VP T4 Race Fuel (Better throttle response and low end delivery)

REP Re-Valve Of AER Fork (More comfort through mid stroke and more predictable mid moto)

If you have any questions about these mods, please feel free to email away at kris@keeferinctesting.com

The Weekend Race Set Up: (5/28/21 Fox Raceway Amateur Day)

I always thought it would be cool to share the notes that I create after a race with the reader. 98% of the time I will input notes about each test bike/part I decide to race any given weekend. The part as well as the bikes change from time to time, but I always like to have a log of what I ran as well as the conditions of each race. Below is a brief breakdown on the bikes, parts as well as notes on how each performed or felt. Last weekend we brought two bikes to race (Yamaha YZ450F and KTM 250 SX-F). Below are two breakdowns of what was on each machine and how each machine fared in race conditions. Each time my son and I race, you can check back here to keeferinctesting.com every Tuesday (when we race the previous weekend) for “The Weekend Race Set Up”.

Aden Keefer (Age:15)

Track: Fox Raceway

Terrain: Very deep loam in AM with hard pack chop in ruts PM

Start: Dirt

Avg Lap Time: 1:58

Total Number Of Motos: 4 motos (Four 5 lap motos)

Weight At Time Of Race: 130 pounds w/o gear

2021 KTM 250 SX-F:

 Engine Hours 8.9

Mods/Parts: 

Tires: Dunlop MX3S/MX33 13.5/12.5 PSI 

Bars: Pro Taper Evo Suzuki Race Team

Grips: Pro Taper 1/3 Waffle Race Cut

Levers: Stock

Throttle: ZRT Grey Cam 

Rider Triangle: Stock

Gearing: 14/52 Sunstar Sprockets/DID ERT3 Chain

Engine Mods: Head Mod XPR Motorsports, Custom HC Piston, Vortex ECU Mapped By XPR/Akrapovic Slip On

Engine Oil: Blud Racing 10/40 Pro Series

Fuel: Renegade SX4+ 

Holeshot Device: WC

Graphics/Seat: Throttle Syndicate

Suspension: REP Racing Test Fork/Shock Spec #AK3

Air Filter: Twin Air Power Flow Kit 

Results: 2nd250B and 2ndSchoolboy 2 

Change Points/Notes: 

• Gearing went from 14/51 to 15/52 for the deeper/tilled dirt. Going to 14/52 helped with getting into third gear quicker off the gate.

• REP AER setting was set at 9.90 bar but we increased to 10 bar for hold up on de-cel due to very deep conditions. Once set at 10 bar the front end had better hold up but rider complained of deflection when fork was higher up in stroke (on throttle out of corners/initial stroke)

• Fork comfort on bigger braking bump was not as good through mid stroke with air at 10 bar, but hold up was necessary for balance of bike entering corners. 

• Shock felt low on accel after fork change so turned HSC in 1/8 turn. Helped balance on throttle out of corners. 

• FMF 4.1 system was installed for race and noticeably more bottom end/low end rpm response was noticed by rider over HGS system. FMF gave rider increased low end to pop over bumps and get out of corners more efficiently than HGS system. However, top end/over-rev was not as good as the HGS system. 

• 120mm holeshot device setting was retained for Fox Raceway start. Aden technique needs to improve off gate. 

Suspension Setting:

Fork: (Spec #REPAK3F)

C: 15 (softer clicker setting than last race) 

R: 11

Height: 5mm

Air: 10 Bar (stiffer air setting than last race)

Shock: (Spec #REPAK3S)

LSC: 12

HSC: 1.25 (stiffer air setting than last race)

R: 12

Sag: 104mm (higher setting than last race)

2021 Yamaha YZ450FX Optional Maps

The 2021 Yamaha YZ450FX is pretty all new with most of its upgrades coming from it’s other sibling, the YZ450F. The chassis and engine are a step in the right direction, but that didn’t stop us from trying to get both to work in harmony even more out on the track and trail. These two maps are some of our favorites with the last one developed over the course of a couple weeks out on a couple moto tracks as well as some tighter, technical, rocky terrain. If you want to try these maps make sure to have the “POSITION” set correctly on the side of the grid. Some of those numbers have changed on the “Keefer Connection Map”. Enjoy and let us know what you think!

Try this map if you’re looking for less hit with added rear wheel traction.

Looking for a broader pulling power but with more rear wheel connection

2021 Kawasaki KX450 Race Tech Suspension Review

The 2021 Kawasaki KX450 is one of the most stable machines in its class and the Showa suspension has a lot to do with that, but it’s slightly under sprung for most heavier or aggressive riders. Even when you go up in spring rate it only acts like a band aid in the long run. I have lived with and have been decently happy with just a spring rate change, but I needed to see if a valving change along with a spring rate change would help the KX450’s character even more on the track. I dropped off my Showa bump sticks to the guys at Race Tech and this is what I came away with after riding with the re-valved Showa set up on the green machine. 

Fork:

With the stock fork, I had too much diving on de-cel and when I went to a stiffer spring it helped with this problem, but I lost some of that nice comfort that the stock spring gave me. Race Tech installed their Gold Valve compression/rebound system with a 5.4 kg spring rate and it changed the way the bike felt in every off throttle situation. I now had better hold up on de-cel with increased bump absorption that didn’t feel harsh in my hands, like the stock valving with the optional 51 N/m spring rate. The KX450 now had a better lean in feel on area 1 (entrance) of corners that gave me more front end traction. I ran the fork height at 3mm at most tracks which gave me the balance of predictable straight line stability and easier cornering than the stock setting (with heavier fork spring). On rougher tracks like Glen Helen, I did have to back out the compression a couple clicks in order to get a little softer mid stroke feel with the Race Tech setting. Unlike the stock valving, the Race Tech Showa valved fork has a larger window of adjustment that could make me happier with minute clicker adjustments. I have always had a problem with the KX450 feeling long, which would hurt my cornering, but with the valving/spring rate change that Race Tech made, actually helped make the KX chassis feel better through corners. I need a balance of stability and ease of cornering with any machine I ride and although I prefer a slower turning chassis, the KX has always felt too lethargic/long in corners. This fork change has helped me corner the green machine better.  

Shock: 

I honestly never really had that much of an issue with the rear of the Kawasaki as the Showa shock had a blend of comfort and performance that gives the KX great rear wheel traction. Sometimes I get nervous about sending a a good standard shock setting off to a aftermarket suspension company, so to say I wasn’t a little skeptical that Race Tech could improve upon the stock shock would be a lie. I will say that going to their suggested 5.8 kg spring rate had me a little worried, but after a few laps I could see what Race Tech was after. Going to a slightly stiffer spring rate in the rear along with their Gold Valve system kept the KX450’s rear wheel traction, but now offered a flatter on/off throttle ride. I ran the sag at 103mm and the rear end felt low enough in braking bumps where it didn’t give me that “rear end kick”, that the stock shock sometimes had on bigger braking bumps. I did end up going a little stiffer on high speed and that helped keep the rear end up a little on steep jump faces. With the Race Tech re-valved shock I used the stock linkage ratio (unlike with the stock suspension where I ran a PC link) with better results under acceleration. The RT re-valve gave me more control on the initial part of the shock’s stroke, yet didn’t get too low under acceleration out of choppy ruts. It still might be a tad soft on g outs or flat landings so I may get Race Tech to create a second shock setting for me with a little more low speed compression.

Overall:

Race Tech knows how I like my bikes set up. This is the most important aspect when thinking about having an aftermarket company re-valve your suspension. Give them enough information on how you ride the bike as well as how aggressive you are and if you are a rear/front end steering rider. The more info about yourself you can give them the better the chance your first setting will be close enough to wear you can fine tune it once you get it back with just clickers. Race Tech did a great job on improving upon the stock suspension and proved to me that I was being nervous for no reason. Suspension settings are a personal preference as well as a feeling that can be hard to translate to others if you’re not used to correlating what you feel on the track to the suspension tuner. Listen to the Rocky Mountain ATV/MC Keefer Tested Podcast episode 229. Listening to that particular episode can give you enough info to arm yourself with enough knowledge to give Race Tech or any other suspension company the correct info about yourself and what you want when out on the track.

2021 KX450 Race Tech Suspension Settings:

Fork: 

 Spring Rate: 5.4 kg

 Compression: 14 clicks out

 Rebound: 10 clicks out

 Fork Height: 3mm

 Shock:

 Spring Rate: 5.8 kg

 Low Speed Compression: 11 clicks out

 High Speed Compression: 1 1/4 turns out

 Rebound: 9 out

If you have any questions about the KX450 or suspension my door is open to all my readers/listeners. We built this media testing outlet for you the consumer! Email me at kris@keeferinctesting.com if you need me.

Yamaha YZ250F Throttle Cable Fix

Some of you may be experiencing some throttle play issues with your YZ250F. If you are adjusting the play from your throttle cable, near your throttle housing and still have a ton of play, even if your adjuster is all the way out, you may need to update your throttle cable to this part number: B7B-26302-00-00

Yamaha updated their cables (knowing the problem) so ordering new cables with the following part number will alleviate throttle play issues. If your throttle play is within your desired spec, you can disregard this article. Only some YZ’s have this issue.

Pro Circuit Fork/Shock Re-Valve (2021 Husqvarna FC450)

Written By: Joe Oehlhof

The KTM, Gas Gas, and Husqvarna umbrella was divided up by brand to target different types of consumers.  KTM being the high end, ready to race model, Gas Gas being the affordable yet sufficient to go racing on model, and the Husqvarna being the mellower vet friendly all-around type of bike. 

So, when Kris gave me the Husqvarna 2021FC450, my goal was to see if I could improve on it.  My initial step was to ride the bike and shake it down in stock form, which I wrote about in a previous article. Next up was to improve upon the stocker based on what I found on the initial rides.  As far as power, this is still a 450 and has plenty of motor, it’s just a question of where do you want the power and how do you go about moving it to suit you.  So, I didn’t want to make this my focus, I wanted to work on the chassis and suspension. 

For 2021 Husqvarna decided to set up the chassis and suspension of the FC450 to fit the smaller/vet rider/off-road and trail rider. They did this by installing 10mm shorter forks, configuring the linkage to drop the rear of the bike 10mm and as a result of lowering the rear, they also had to limit the depth of the shock stroke to prevent the tire from hitting the back of the air box. With the bike set up this way, the on-track feel was for me, a bit harsh on the choppy bumps. The rear end felt as if it were on a different/lower level than the front of the bike and the overall chassis feel was really stiff. One area that was a positive for me was the lower front end gave me the ability to turn down earlier in corners and hug the inside lines. Once I had this info, I went to Luke and the guys in the suspension department at Pro Circuit to see what we could come up with. I wanted to keep the 10mm lower forks, but I did want to raise the rear end to get more of a balanced feel. When Luke called and said everything was ready, I picked up the stock suspension, sprung and re-valved for my weight/riding ability, and a different linkage consisting of a different rod length and knuckle to try and accomplish what I wanted. I bolted it up to the bike and went and tested it at three different tracks – Fox Raceway, State Fair MX, and Glen Helen. 

When riding the bike, I immediately noticed the balanced feel due to the new linkage.  I no longer had the two separate level feeling (or unbalanced feel) that I did with the stock linkage. Along with the re-valved and a spring change to the shock, I instantly had a better feel for where my rear tire was placed, significantly better bump absorption, and a more planted, stable feel on corner entry. I didn’t have any issues with the bike in stock form with jump takeoff or landings, but these areas were slightly improved with the correct spring and valving tailored to me.   

Like I mentioned before in stock form, the forks had a harsh, unstable feeling. I wasn’t sure if this could be improved with different triple clamps or just a re-valved AER fork. So, I decided to try the Pro Circuit re-valved fork and keep the stock clamps. The fork performed slightly better than stock on jump take offs and landings, but the areas where I noticed the biggest improvements were front end traction/feel and I got that initial plushness back on small chop that the stock forks didn’t have. This gave the bike an overall more compliant confidence inspiring feel when the track got rough late in the day. Another area that I didn’t anticipate improving on was the ability to turn down even tighter and stick to the inside line with the same speed as a wider line. I believe this was better because the forks had better holdup and it allowed me to push the bike into and around corners at a higher speed without dive. 

So at the end of the day, this Pro Circuit suspension mod helped me achieve the areas the FC450 needed to be better in, as well as help me have a better level of comfort while trying to push this older moto body back into shape. I still would like to try a different triple clamp set up and possibly different engine hangers to see if I could improve even further on the harsh chassis feeling that I get at some tracks.  All in all, big improvements with some pretty basic changes that make a good bike even better.  If you are looking to getting these same improvements, call PC at 951-738-8050.  Mention this article and they will get you set up and maybe possibly a discount. 

Optional 2021 RM-Z450 MX Tuner 2.0 Aggressive Map

If you’re looking for a little more pulling power out of corners and more mid range pull from your 2021 RM-Z450, try this map out on your MX Tuner App.

Suspension Adjustment Guide

The one question I get sent to my email account the most is about suspension. Suspension is a tricky thing and can be somewhat difficult to figure out for the average rider. These descriptions below may seem redundant to all of you riders out there that are familiar with suspension, but I wanted to cater to the novice type rider, to get him or her familiar with adjusting their suspension to achieve the most comfortable ride possible.

 Adjustments are there for you to “customize” your set up and feel on the track. The compression and rebound damping adjustments on your machine are known as your “clicker” adjustments. Making the correct changes with your clickers will make your bike handle better and give you a friendlier riding experience. Clickers control the amount of oil flow that is allowed to bypass your suspension valving stack. They work like a fuel screw and can fine tune your suspension.

A shock has both low-speed and high-speed compression adjustments. The low-speed adjuster controls the damping at low shock speed velocities like rolling whoops and acceleration bumps. The high-speed adjuster controls damping when the shock is moving at high speeds like g-outs, jump faces and effects the ride height of the bike (similar to sag). Before you start messing around with clicker adjustments here are some things you should do first.

• Check where your clickers are set at and write them down.

• Start out with recommended stock settings first for baseline.

• Adjust your tire pressure for the type of riding and terrain. (You can check the tire pressure bible on keeferinctesting.com for your type of tire).

• Make sure you have the correct spring rate on your bike for your weight/ability and set your sag.

• Bleed the air out of the forks every time you ride, if you have a spring fork or an AER fork.

• If using air forks, makes sure to check air pressure.

Start off by riding your machine with your clickers set in the stock position. This will give you a good base setting of how your bike handles. Ride only a few laps (2-4) at a time when you try new settings so you will not be second guessing your initial impression of each adjustment. If you stay out too long you will start to second guess your initial thoughts. Ride the same lines every lap so you get a feel for the changes you make and do not ride around the bumps you are trying to test on. Doing this will alter your perception of how well your stuff is working. Cheating doesn’t nothing for you! This will only hurt you in the long run, so buck up and take the rough line! Make changes to your clickers 1-2 “clicks” at a time and one adjustment at a time (rebound or compression). Changing compression/rebound on the fork and shock at the same time can confuse you as to what setting is actually improving your machine. So just chill down and do one adjustment at a time. Soft terrain usually requires more compression damping (stiffer). The bumps are bigger and spaced further apart so they can require more rebound damping to minimize kick (stiffer). If there is a hard base underneath, the bumps will usually be closer together and square edges will develop. In this case a softer setting or a faster rebound can be used. If you are riding in deep sand your compression and rebound settings should be stiffer (slower) than recommended stock settings that are in your manual. You can also run your front end higher (drop your fork height) and the rear end lower (higher sag number) if possible for stability, to combat any twitchiness your bike may have.

On hard pack dirt it is better to adjust the rebound faster while still maintaining control and bottoming resistance. Try to find a happy medium between bottoming and comfort. It’s ok to bottom out once or twice a lap, so don’t freak out if you bottom out once in a while. That doesn’t mean you need to stiffen your suspension if you’re bottoming out. All of your suspension is meant to be used, that’s why it’s there, so let it do its job. If you are bottoming out more than that you would adjust your compression clickers to a stiffer setting. Adjusting your rebound damping to a stiffer setting will help, if your bike feels unstable (loose feel) or if you are blowing through the stroke on jump faces. While it’s common to stiffen (slower) the shock rebound when your bike kicks over bumps (because you feel like it’s bucking you), many times it is caused by compression that is too stiff. Try going one or two clicks softer/faster on rebound to see if it soaks up the bumps and calms the chassis down in that area of the track. Always ride within your means when testing and try not to push 110%. Let the pros do that! 

Again, be patient. Designate a day where you just play around with your settings and get familiar with your bike. I feel like suspension tuning is kind of like dating. You must learn your partner before you can get married right? Getting a balanced, comfortable suspension setting is no different than dating. Get to know your bike before you decide to dump it and blame it all on her. Maybe its you? Maybe you didn’t give it a chance? Play around and see what works for you. If the rear of your bike kicks to the side, the cause can be that it’s too stiff of a rebound setting or too stiff of a compression setting. Again, try one adjustment at a time. Lack of traction (wheel spin) on acceleration bumps can usually be improved by softening the low-speed compression on the shock or speeding up the rebound, so the rear tire follows the ground better. Keep in mind that faster riders generally prefer stiffer settings to maintain control at speed (performance) while slower riders prefer softer settings for comfort.

When it comes to air forks messing with the air pressure can be tricky. Just to let all of you know that 2 psi is one full spring rate. How many times have you changed a spring out at the track? Not very much right? Unless you are very light or extremely heavy, the stock air pressure settings from the factory are usually a great place to start and keep within 1 psi (softer or stiffer). Adjusting your compression and rebound clickers on air forks is much easier and a simpler way to dial in these types of forks. Air pressure will change throughout the day as heat builds up, so if you are checking your air pressure in the middle of the day, make sure the fork is cooled down to ambient air temperature. If you like what you read here, listen to the Rocky Mountain ATV/MC Keefer Tested Podcast and listen to some more tricks that can help you get more cozy on the track! 

Follow some of these easy steps and I can guarantee you that you will get your set up even better and enjoy riding that dirt bike of yours even more. If you have any questions you can email me at kris@keeferinctesting.com as we are here to help. 

Weekend Race Set Up: Glen Helen 4/10/21

I always thought it would be cool to share the notes that I create after a race with the reader. 98% of the time I will input notes about each test bike/part I decide to race any given weekend. The part as well as the bikes change from time to time, but I always like to have a log of what I ran as well as the conditions of each race. Below is a brief breakdown on the bikes, parts as well as notes on how each performed or felt. Last weekend we brought two bikes to race (Yamaha YZ450F and KTM 250 SX-F). Below are two breakdowns of what was on each machine and how each machine fared in race conditions. Each time my son and I race, you can check back here to keeferinctesting.com every Tuesday (when we race the previous weekend)  for “The Weekend Race Set Up”.

Track: Glen Helen Raceway

Kris Keefer

Terrain: Sandy top soil AM with hard pack in PM 

Start: Dirt

Avg Lap Time: 2:20

Total Number Of Motos: 5 motos (Three 20 minute plus 1 lap motos and 2 15 minute motos)

Weight At Time Of Race: 170 pounds w/o gear

2021 Yamaha YZ450F: 

Engine Hours 45.6

Mods/Parts: 

Tires: Dunlop MX3S/MX33 13.5/12.5 PSI 

Bars: Pro Taper SX Race Evo

Grips: Renthal Half Waffle Soft

Levers: ARC RC-8 Perch/Lever

Throttle: ZRT 

Rider Triangle: -5mm down and back peg position/stock bar height/rear hole

Gearing: 13/49 Renthal Sprockets/DID ERT3 Chain

Engine Mods: Vortex ECU Mapped By XPR/FMF 4.1 Full System

Engine Oil: Blud Racing 10/40 Pro Series

Fuel: VP T4

Holeshot Device: WC

Graphics/Seat: Era Moto Co

Suspension: Enzo Racing Test Fork/Shock Spec #KK145

Air Filter: Twin Air Power Flow Kit 

Plastic: Cycra Power Flow Kit

Results: 1st 40A (1-1-1), 1st Support Expert (1-1)

Notes: 

• GH World Vet ECU setting allowed third gear corners without on/off area 2 feel. Power was controlled and easy to manage late in motos.

• YZ450F feels slightly heavy on entry of shallow ruts.

• Fork has better comfort when ridden at race pace. Not too much comfort on initial stroke (light bump).

• Shock sag at 105mm made for acceptable balance, but sped up rebound +1 click to compensate for choppy conditions so rear can follow ground more.

• WC start device was better off the gate when set at 120mm for dirt start.

• Updated rider triangle (-5mm/-10 back pegs) allows for less leg fatigue. Legs were fresher at end of motos. 

• GUTS standard seat foam is firmer than stock OEM foam and last longer. (12.1 hours on foam and density still holding up).

Suspension Setting: 

Fork: (Spec #KK145F)

C: 10

R: 10

Height: 3mm

Shock: (Spec #KK144S)

LSC: 10

HSC: 1.25

R: 9

Sag: 105mm

Track: Glen Helen Raceway

Aden Keefer

Terrain: Sandy top soil AM with hard pack in PM 

Start: Dirt

Avg Lap Time: 2:24

Total Number Of Motos: 2 motos (Two 15 minute plus 1 lap motos)

Weight At Time Of Race: 130 pounds w/o gear

2021 KTM 250 SX-F:

 Engine Hours 7.8

Mods/Parts: 

Tires: Dunlop MX3S/MX33 13.5/12.5 PSI 

Bars: Pro Taper Evo Suzuki Race Team

Grips: Pro Taper 1/3 Waffle Race Cut

Levers: Stock

Throttle: ZRT Grey Cam 

Rider Triangle: Stock

Gearing: 14/51 Sunstar Sprockets/DID ERT3 Chain

Engine Mods: Head Mod XPR Motorsports, Custom HC Piston, Vortex ECU Mapped By XPR/Akrapovic Slip On

Engine Oil: Blud Racing 10/40 Pro Series

Fuel: VP MR Pro 6

Holeshot Device: WC

Graphics/Seat: Throttle Syndicate

Suspension: REP Racing Test Fork/Shock Spec #AK3

Air Filter: Twin Air Power Flow Kit 

Results: 1st Intermediate Support 

Notes: 

• REP AER setting was set at 9.90 bar but we increased to 9.92 bar for hold up on hills.

• Fork comfort on bigger braking bump was better than stock setting and fork mid stroke improved with air at 9.92. 

• Fork comfort on small/light bump/accel was better with Pro Taper Evo bar versus Fuzion.

• Shock felt low on accel. Turned HSC in 1/4 turn. Helped balance

• Aden wants more low end hit so we will try FMF 4.1 system instead of Akrapovic slip on.

• 120mm holeshot device setting was better for light rider off dirt start.

Suspension Setting:

Fork: (Spec #AK3F)

C: 13

R: 11

Height: 5mm

Air: 9.90-9.92 Bar 

Shock: (Spec #AK3S)

LSC: 14

HSC: 1.5

R: 12

Sag: 105mm

Long Term With The 2021 Yamaha YZ 125X

Written By: Dr. Gardner Tarlow

Can the YZ 125X really serve as a multipurpose moto-enduro bike?

If you have read my previous article on the 2021 YZ 125x you know that Kris gave the average Joe rider (me) the opportunity to test the bike. Well luckily for me Kris asked me to continue to ride the bike and give him my extended impression.

I’ve had the opportunity to continue to ride the bike for a few months now. I had been thinking of adding a 125 MX machine to my stable of bikes for mid-week moto for a while, however seeing how I mainly rode enduro, I was hesitant to have a track bike that sat in my garage. When Yamaha first debuted the YZ 125X, I was excited and wanted to see how well the bike could handle the work load as a multipurpose bike. As luck would have it, Kris offered me the opportunity to test the 2021 YZ1 25X and I jumped at the chance. I instantly fell in love with this small-bore bike for both enduro and motocross and I have once again been bitten by the motocross bug. 

I intentionally left the bike completely stock to hopefully get a better sense of the pros and cons as well as the reliability of this bike. This bike currently has 45 hours on it, approximately 20 hours on the trails and 25 hours at the track. I have only performed regular maintenance and played with suspension sag and clicker adjustments. The bike has continued to perform well and has been reliable on both the track and trail.

Not owning a newer 125 for the track to have as a yard stick, I felt this bike more than handled our local tracks and really didn’t give up much in track performance compared to a pure track bike. Recently however, I had the opportunity to ride back-to-back the YZ 125X and a stock 21 Husqvarna TC125. This was a bit of an eye opener for me as it took a bit of shine off the YZ 125X. I continued to prefer the YZs handling and rough track prowess, but the power difference pulling out of corners, down longer straights, and large hills was too much to turn a blind eye to. It would be interesting to ride the 125X back to back with the YZ125 to feel the difference.

In reality, I don’t know how important it is to compare the YZ 125X to a motocross track specific bike as that is not the designed purpose. In the same vein, I think it would be difficult to take a track specific 125 out into the hills, ride a rocky single track, with technical hill climbs/rock gardens for 2-3 hours and not feel completely beat up by the end of the ride. Each bike design serves a different purpose, especially when comparing the extremes of each riding discipline. The YZ 125X is designed to be a GNCC race bike, this means extended cross country, off road courses, and lasting 2-3 hours of racing. These courses will have sections which are tighter and potentially more technical than any motocross track and other sections that will be just as wide open as any motocross track or even short desert sections. Maybe the better question is which 125 can merge to perform all the different disciplines if you’re looking for a single 125 multipurpose bike. 

When straight up comparing the YZ 125X wet weight to the other 125 motocross bikes the difference is between 2-10 lbs difference. The YZ 125X is still very light, flickable, easy to muscle around, and place into whatever line you want. Unfortunately, shedding weight on a bike can get expensive and when you consider the HP to weight difference, this may be slightly problematic at the track if you are competitively racing. For me however this isn’t a huge issue as I am looking to have fun on days off.

The power of the YZ 125X engine is smooth, very controllable and builds from off the bottom all the way up to its top end. The bottom end lugability allows the bike to perform very well on slow technical climbs as well as allow me to change lines when trying to maneuver over slow rocky obstacles. The delivery of the bottom end also allows you to roll on the throttle at very low speeds without having to abuse the clutch too much which is nice for an old doc like me. This also translates well for motocross allowing you to be more creative with inside lines and also makes up for some riding technique deficiencies. The mid-range is strong and more than capable with both riding disciplines and it hauls my 185 pound frame around well.. The top end of the YZ 125X seems to rev out sooner than I would like and fall off, leaving you wanting a little more top end. In stock form this is where the YZ 125X suffers the most compared to a track specific 125. 

Modifying a YZ 125X to gain 6hp or more is possible, but at what cost to reliability as well as dollars. I don’t think I would mind pushing my YZ 125X back to the pits from the tracks edge, but it would make for a bad day of riding if you have to tow your bike back 2-3 miles away from your truck. 

Although not a hydraulic clutch, I was pleasantly surprised at how well the stock clutch performed despite the abuse of both enduro and moto riding. The clutch had a light pull and continued to perform with minimal adjusting even on my most abusing days. Being at 45 hours the clutch held up well and although it will get a new clutch, I believe there are a few more good rides on the existing one. 

The suspension on the 125X is essentially the same KYB setup as the YZ125 but with different valving, because of this, the YZ 125X has the potential to be as good as any YZ125. In its stock form it’s very ridable for the smaller rider, but at 185 pounds once you start getting aggressive or the track gets rougher, you notice the big hits in your wrists and feel the suspension moving thru the stroke too quickly. This unfortunately is going to be the case for all heavier  riders, so re-valving the suspension front and rear with a stiffer spring rate is par for the course with any 125. In stock setting the suspension is just too soft for motocross unless you are the intended audience (<160lb) and even then, it is too soft for a faster rider when considering motocross. Out on the enduro trail and tight single track the suspension valving seems very appropriate soaking up rocky uneven surfaces, but again would need heavier springs for the larger riders.

Being more of an enduro guy and riding primarily a KTM 300XC, I felt the YZ 125X was a blast in the hills, single track and small rock gardens. Although the 125 is much easier to throw around and significantly lighter weight than my 300, you have to ride a 125 with much more aggression to get through certain types of sections. The same way it is a blast to attack at the track you need to do the same out in the hills. I definitely felt like I could manhandle and ride the more difficult sections better on the 125 but by the end of the 3 hour rides, this constant need to attack the trail left me feeling more fatigued compared to my larger bore bike. I will say I think the YZ 125X would be a great tool for any rider to improve and work on extreme enduro style techniques.

My wish list for this YZ 125X would be a gradual build up. I typically replace parts as they need servicing or I damage them. At 185 pounds without gear and 45 hours of ride time, the suspension needs servicing. I would service as well as address changing the spring rate and more aggressive valving to better handle weekday moto. I find it easier to soften suspension with clickers for enduro than stiffen suspension for moto. I occasionally drop or dare I say throw my bike out on the trail when in trouble, so bike armor for off-road is a must. At minimum the bike needs an aluminum rear disk guard, plastic front disc guard, skid plate, linkage guard, radiator guards and hand guards. The difference between a good running 125 and the same 125 finely tuned, can be significant. The carburetor performance in stock form seemed adequate, but I feel there is some performance gain to be had with a reed valve system. I wouldn’t mind adding a high compression head, pipe/silencer combo to even the playing field at the track. This would help overall power and hopefully provide a bit more top end without sacrificing too much bottom end performance. The front brake performance is average and although appropriate for both disciplines, an oversize front rotor and steel brake cable would be an improvement. The YZ 125X gas tank is the same as the YZ 125 at 2.1 gallons and although it has a reserve petcock, it doesn’t extend ride time or mileage. I spent most enduro rides carrying gas filled water bottles in my fanny pack so a larger tank would be optimal. Unfortunately, most available larger tanks (3.2 gallons) seem rather large for track purpose. Yamaha should have designed and provided a slightly larger 2.5 gallon tank (similar to the WR450F),which would have been perfect and still small enough for moto. 

Without a doubt the YZ 125X can serve as a multipurpose 125. The more I rode this bike week to week, the more I appreciated what the YZ 125X could do out on the trail and at the track. Outside of competitive motocross, I believe the YZ 125X is a great alternative for someone wanting a 125 that can do it all with the least amount of difficulty going from one discipline to another.  

2021 250/450 Motocross Gearing Specs

I have spent a lot of time testing on each 2021 machine you see below. I went back and forth on several bikes to see which gearing would be good for the average rider. I did my evaluations on tight clay based tracks to flowing sandier based type desert courses. Since the word “gearing” is still in the subject line in a lot of my emails, I thought I would condense some of the best gearing specs I have come up with for the 2021 MX test machines so far. A couple of these gearing specs have evolved since 2020 so don’t expect some of these to be the same from last year. I DO NOT however just change the gearing for the sake of changing the gearing, like some other media testing outlets. However, if a certain bike does need an engine character change or maybe the transmission spacing needs help, we will try different gearing. These gearing specs are for stock engines or with aftermarket mufflers. If you have engine work done to your bike, chances are you could change gearing on a few of these machines. I also attached a couple links to some ECU maps (to a few bikes) that I preferred, to compliment the recommended gearing specs. As usual if you have any questions I am here to help you. Email kris@keeferinctesting.com and I will be happy to assist you. 

Yamaha: 

YZ250F: Stock 13/50 Recommended 13/50 ECU: (Keefer Free Feeling Map)

YZ450F: Stock 13/49 Recommended 13/49 or 14/53 ECU: (TP 3.0 or 5.0)  The 14/53 gearing will help the chassis settle more on acceleration as well as help calm the bike on de-cel. This also keeps third gear usable in almost all track conditions.

Kawasaki: 

KX250: Stock/Recommended 13/50  ECU: (Keefer Map) You can view the KX 250 map here: https://www.keeferinctesting.com/motocross-testing/2020/1/6/2020-kawasaki-kx250-top-5-mods

KX450: Stock 13/50 Recommended 13/51 ECU: (Keefer Map) You can view the KX450 map here: https://www.keeferinctesting.com/motocross-testing/2019/8/25/2020-kawasaki-kx450-reviewbaseline-settings.

Going to a 13/51, instead of the stock 13/50 gearing, helps the rider get into third gear quicker coming out of corners. The stock 13/50 will not pull third gear in corners without using a lot of clutch.

Suzuki:

2020 RM-Z250: Stock/Recommended 13/50 White coupler (Stock)

2020 RM-Z450: Stock 13/50 Recommended 13/51 White coupler (Helps pulling power down low on deep tracks)

Honda:

CRF250R: Stock 13/48 Recommended: 13/49 (Helps rider get into third gear earlier and gives more pulling power without sacrificing second gear roll on). The stock 13/48 makes second and third gear feel super short/close together, but the 13/49 will allow you to just run third gear in corners.)

CRF450R: Stock 13/49 Recommended: 13/49 Unlike last year’s Honda CRF450R, the new hydraulic clutch is a tight fit for a 14T countershaft and I just don’t trust it because it is too damn close to the slave cylinder. 

KTM: 

This set up on all three bikes will help settle the rear end out of corners/square edge/braking bumps. It will also help 2nd-3rd gear recovery as well as transition between each gear. 

250 SX-F: Stock 14/51 Recommended 14/52 

350 SX-F: Stock 14/51 Recommended 14/53

450 SX-F: Stock 13/49 Recommended 14/52

Husqvarna: 

This set up on all three bikes will help settle the rear end out of corners and help with 2nd-3rd gear transition exiting corners.

FC 250: Stock 14/51 Recommended 14/52

FC350: Stock 14/51 Recommended 14/52

FC450: Stock 13/49 Recommended 14/52 

Gas Gas:

This set up on both bikes will help settle the rear end out of corners and help with 2nd-3rd gear transition exiting corners.

MC 250: Stock 14/51 Recommended 14/52

MC 450: Stock 13/49 Recommended 14/52

Mods That Will Make You Love Your 2021 Honda CRF450R More

You have no idea how much I love/hate this 2021 Honda CRF450R/WE. This bike calls my name every time I walk out into the shop and like the sucker that I am, I always crawl back to it. Some of my best days at the track have come on the 2021 Honda CRF450R and also some of my worst. Even though the 2021 machine is less finicky than the 2020 version, it’s still tough to obtain a consistent level of comfort, out of the Honda’s chassis, from track to track. I am determined (for me and for you) to make it comfortable to go fast on and hit bumps at speed without feeling like I “HAVE” to find the smooth line. Here are a few things that I have been messing with a lot lately that is actually bringing me closer to the Honda CRF450R. No, it’s not as comfortable as a Yamaha or Kawasaki in the chassis department, but doing these mods below really has helped me take the Honda out of the shop and into my van for a happy moto day.

ECU:

Yes, you already know to get your stock ECU re-flashed from your Honda dealer right? Good! This will help make like a lot easier on you once out on the track. From what I am told this ECU update is basically the 2022 setting, so we all should be good to go on this updated stock ECU. However, if you want to take it a step further and go with a Vortex, I am not going to tell you no. A Vortex mapped by Chad at XPR or Jamie at Twisted Development really does help calm the chassis down, by giving it a longer/more linear type of power. Yes, it’s expensive at around 1K, but if you’re a serious rider this mod is worth the money! I have spent my own money on a few Vortex ECU’s on various machines and have always came back blown away. Plus they have great resale value! Get more rear wheel connection and more of a seamless power character from either of these tuners. You can always email me to get more of a background on either one of these gentlemen tuners. *If you are wondering if you should get your stock ECU re-flashed from one of these tuners or get the Honda OEM re-flash, I am always going to tell you to go with the OEM in-house re-flash*. 

Optional Suspension Setting: 

 The stock suspension might be too soft for you if you’re anywhere over 180 pounds. Honda has a 5.0 N/m fork spring that is adequate for most, but the valving seems too soft. Out back the 54 N/m shock spring is also way too soft, so if you’re looking for a quick band aid to make your Honda CRF450R better, without going to a re-valve, going a spring rate up on each end has helped me feel more secure on high speed tracks, as well as soft bumpy tracks. Bringing both ends up a little in the stroke (with the heavier spring rates) has given me more front/rear wheel traction as well a Honda that corners better without over-steering. Unlike the 2020 Honda CRF450R going up a spring rate on the 2021 version has given the new red bike more track toughness. If you’re not into spending more money on a re-valve at this time, simply get some heavier springs and try this setting:

 Fork: 

 Spring Rate: 5.1 N/m

 Height: Flush-2mm

 Comp: 11-12 out

 Rebound: 11 out

 Shock:

 Spring Rate: 56 N/m

 L/S Comp: 12 clicks out

 H/S Comp: 2 3/4 clicks out

 Rebound: 10 clicks out

 Sag: 105-106mm

Throttle Tube:If you’re like me and think that the Honda CRF450R throttle tube is too fat feeling, go with a stronger, better feeling throttle tube of the ZRT. Tom over at ZRT turns these throttle tubes down a little on the lath, so they have a smaller OD size and have an easier twist because of the bearing ZRT incorporates with the throttle tube. I was skeptical about this throttle before using it, but since I put it on my KTM test bike, I have been running them on almost all of my bikes here and have been extremely happy with the product. They are a little pricey at almostst 200 bucks, but they are bulletproof, give you a buttery twist, and feel less fat in your right hand! Plus for being a aluminum throttle tube, the extra vibration is very minimal. 

Handlebars/Vibration:Get a set of Pro Taper bars and get a little less vibration and more flex than the Renthal Fatbars. I currently run a Suzuki Race Team PT EVO bar (same as 996 Renthal) that will be on sale soon to the public. If you can’t wait for the Suzuki RT bend, go with a SX Race or YZ High bend (for rider height 5’8-6’1) from Pro Taper. 

Muffler:Putting an aftermarket muffler system on isn’t necessarily about more horsepower, but about changing the character of the engine in a way that the Honda needs. I went out and tested three different versions of what FMF is about to offer the consumer and the one I chose looks to be the one that will go into production. So what does the 4.1 system do? What I liked about the 4.1 system right off the bat is that it calmed down the vibration feel that I get on the Honda. For whatever reason bolting on the 4.1 helped the harmonic vibration that I get when hitting higher RPM’s from the stock muffler. This actually gave the Honda more comfort, because it felt less rigid! The 4.1 also made the engine character broader with better low end RPM response, but with a smoother roll on. Mid range is increased as well as slightly more top end/over-rev in 2nd/3rd gears. Before you email me and tell me you CAN'T get the FMF 4.1 for your new Honda, chill down... I know... It's coming!

Torque Settings:For 2021, I thought I would revisit some torque specs on the CRF450R chassis and see if it helps as much as it did with the 2020 CRF450R. I spent a few days experimenting with torque settings and have came up with the spec chart below. What these updated torque specs do is slightly improve the bump compliancy and front/rear wheel traction of the 2021 CRF450R. This isn’t a cure all, but you will feel a little extra comfort in your red ride. If you don’t see a torque spec on a portion of the bike that is not below, don’t freak out, just go with the stock recommended torque spec. I experimented with a lot of different parts of the chassis with torque specs and the bolts/nuts below make the mosts difference on the red machine.  It may not seem like much, but it’s the little things on this bike that can make the Honda chassis FUN for the average guy. Out of all of the machines that I have experimented with on torque settings, this bike reacts the most to it, so pay attention to your nuts/bolts on your Honda! 

Follow the torque spec sheet below and make sure to blue Loc-Tite the bolts/nuts on each to ensure you have no issues down the road.

Rear Axle Nut (Qty. 1): 

Stock: 128 Nm

Updated Spec: 120 Nm

Fork Top Clamp Pinch Bolts (Qty. 4):

Stock: 22 Nm

Updated Spec: 19 Nm

Fork Bottom Clamp Pinch Bolts (Qty. 4):

Stock: 20 Nm

Updated Spec: 16-17 Nm

Swingarm Pivot Nut (Qty. 1):

Stock: 88 Nm

Updated Spec: 81 Nm

Front Engine Hanger Plate Bolts (Qty. 4):

Stock: 26 Nm

Updated Spec: 24 Nm

Front Engine Hanger Plate Nut (Qty. 1):

Stock: 54 Nm

Updated Spec: 51 Nm

Cylinder Head Hanger Bolt (Qty.2):

Stock 54 Nm

Updated Spec: 51 Nm

Cylinder head Hanger Plate Bolts (Qty 4):

Stock: 32 Nm

Updated Spec: 29 Nm

Shock Absorber Upper Mounting Bolt (Qty. 1):

Stock: 44 Nm

Updated Spec: 42 Nm

Things You Can’t Do To Your 2021 That You Could With Your 2020: 

Gearing:You can’t install a 14 tooth countershaft sprocket without damaging the hydraulic clutch slave cylinder so don't do it! 

24mm Offset Clamps:Currently no one is making a 24mm offset clamp for the 2021 CRF450R at the time of this article. However, you can use a 2020 24mm offset clamp if you go with the 2020 front fender and number plate combo. The 24mm offset helps calm the chassis down under acceleration as well as help decrease rigidity feel. This was all a plus for me on the 2021 CRF450R. Installing a 24mm offset clamp with the fork height at 4mm gives the rider a more positive feel when the track gets beat up and rutty. Ride Engineering is currently working on a 23.5mm offset clamp that I will be doing a review on shortly. My two top clamps for this model would be either a X-Trig ROCS or Ride Engineering Split Clamp. 

Vibration: 

If you’re noticing a vibration up through your pegs into your handlebars on low RPM (4000-6000 RPM) try this with your 2021 CRF450R engine. I stumbled across this mod when Chad at XPR unexpectedly did this to my 2020 CRF450R without me even knowing. When I came off the track and commented I felt less vibration though my feet/handlebars as well as a better initial lean coming into corners he was kind of blown away. Since then I have tried this on another 2021 CRF450R and got similar results, so I thought it was worth mentioning to you. The first step to tilting your CRF 450R engine in the chassis is to loosen off all motor mounts and engine hangers,(without completely removing the bolts or nuts) seeing how you are going to have to quickly tighten the motor mounting nuts while holding the engine in place. This includes the swingarm pivot bolt, lower engine bolt, three upper engine bolts that mount to frame and engine, finally the left and right engine hangers on the sides of the frame and engine. Next step is to find a long flat blade screw driver or a longer tire iron works best. Place the tire iron or screw driver in between the frame and the engine in the middle of the lower engine bolt and the upper engine bolts. By pushing down on the tire iron or screw driver you will notice the motor lift up and back in the chassis. While continuing to push down on the tire iron or screw driver begin to tighten the three upper engine bolts/nuts first and then the lower engine bolt /nut. Get these nuts and bolts tight enough to hold the engine in place without the motor sliding down again. Torque these four nuts to the manufacturers specifications then move to the swing arm axle nut and finally to the engine hanger bolts and torque them to the manufacturers specifications.

Hopefully some of these inexpensive tips help you get some added happiness out of your 2021 CRF450R! Email me at kris@keeferinctesting.com and tell me how it's going!

2021 KTM 250 SX-F Baseline Suspension, Rider Triangle, And Gearing Settings

My son and I have been riding the 2021 KTM 250 SX-F heavily the past few months and have come up with some settings for each of us that may help you out with your orange 250 four stroke machine. If you’re looking for a good place to start, these settings below worked well for a wide variety of tracks that we tested at. Getting a setting that ranges from 130-175 pounds is tough to do but after a few months of playing around we thing we found a setting that can make you comfortable. Below are some suspension, gearing and rider triangle settings that you can apply to your orange brigade at home. 

Suspension: (160-190 Pounds)

Fork: 

C: 15

R: 11

Height: 4mm

Air: 10.7 Bar

Shock: (Spec #AK2S)

LSC: 13

HSC: 1.5

R:11

Sag: 105mm

Suspension: (130-155 Pounds)

Fork: 

C: 11

R: 10

Height: 4mm

Air: 10.4 Bar

Shock: (Spec #AK2S)

LSC: 15

HSC: 1..75

R: 11

Sag: 105mm

Gearing: 

In stock form the 2021 KTM 250 SX-F comes with a 14/51 but for heavier riders above 170 pounds a 14/52 or even a 14/53 works better in most conditions. Why? It allows the rider to get into third gear more and let the KTM 250 SX-F pull their heavy asses around the track better. For lighter riders under 150 pounds the stock 13/51 gearing is just fine as the lighter riders can use 3rd gear a little early without the detrimental affect of not having enough recovery when shifting too early. 

Rider Triangle: 

The stock Neken handlebar is rigid/harsh to the hands so go with a Pro Taper bar. If you’re a Renthal guy please contact me for specs at kris@keeferinctesting.com. See specs below: 

Height: 5’5-5’9 = Husqvarna Stock Pro Taper Bend

Height: 5’9-6’2 = SX Race Pro Taper Bend or YZ High Pro Taper Bend

Throttle Feel:

If you find yourself having a sticky or hard twist to your throttle, you can replace your throttle cables as the stock cables will only last around 20 hours before they start to feel like crap. No matter what you do, the cables will never feel the same even if you lube them. You might get a free feel after lubing the cables for a bit, but soon thereafter your throttle will feel harder to twist once again. If you’re looking to spend a little money for an aluminum throttle tube and want to  help the feel of your throttle, I recommend the ZRT throttle. This throttle tube makes the pull have almost zero drag and is a tough SOB. There is some set up/prep time to this throttle (cutting the right side of the handlebars a 1/2 inch), but it can help the pull over the long haul.

TOP 5 MAINTENANCE ITEMS:

1. Fuel Filters: If you’re a KTM owner, do yourself a favor and put a couple of these in your toolbox just in case. Fuel filters can get clogged on all KTM’s and this can cause damage to your fuel pump or possibly not allow your bike to start properly.

2. Throttle Cables: If there is one thing that DOES NOT last on KTM’s it is the throttle cables. Every 15-20 hours I will have to replace the throttle cables to ensure that my throttle doesn’t feel hard or sticky when twisting. Originally I thought my throttle tube was dirty or maybe the right side of the handlebar had dirt on it, but I found out through a couple KTM mechanics, that the throttle cables simply wear out. You can’t lube them or clean them out as it will only make the throttle feel better for a short amount of time. Get some 

3. Check All Spokes/Sprocket Bolts: KTM spokes always come loose near the rim lock so make sure you pay attention to all the spokes after every ride. If you don’t check them constantly you will lose or break a couple. 

4. Check Engine Mounts/Swingarm Pivot Bolt: Always check the torx bolts that hold the top engine hangers on the bike. After break in, these will loosen up a bunch, so you might need some blue Loctite on the threads. After you do this, please continue to check these as they still back out from time to time. The torque spec on these bolts are important to the ride attitude of these KTM’s. Also the KTM’s come with frame guards and that means you will not know (until it’s too late) when your swingarm pivot bolt  backs out. Take off your frame guard and check pivot bolt regularly. While you’re at it, get the Acerbis frame guards as they last longer and have better grip than the stock ones. 

5: FI Indicator Light: The little FI indicator light bulb will fall out of the rubber casing as soon as you get past 10 hours. The best thing to do is put a little silicone inside the rubber casing, so the light bulb as well as the wire doesn’t flop around.

2021 Honda CRF450R Optional Torque Specs

I have spoke about how important the torque specs are on the 2020 Honda CRF450R before, but in a recent test session with the 2021 CRF450R, this statement never became more true. As always I am looking for more comfort out the 2021 Honda CRF450R chassis even though it is slightly more forgiving than the 2020 version. Out of all the bikes that I ride, I feel like the Honda fits me the best ergonomically, but it’s always a struggle for me to find comfort when I hit rough tracks. If I go to a soft bumpy track, I really enjoy riding the 2021 CRF450R, but when I get to a rough/choppy dry type of track, the Honda just beats me up too much. 

So for 2021, I thought I would revisit some torque specs on the CRF450R chassis and see if it helps as much as it did with the 2020 CRF450R. I spent a few days experimenting with torque settings and have came up with the spec chart below. What these updated torque specs do is slightly improve the bump compliancy and front/rear wheel traction of the 2021 CRF450R. This isn’t a cure all, but you will feel a little extra comfort in your red ride. If you don’t see a torque spec on a portion of the bike that is not below, don’t freak out, just go with the stock recommended torque spec. I experimented with a lot of different parts of the chassis with torque specs and the bolts/nuts below make the mosts difference on the red machine. It may not seem like much, but it’s the little things on this bike that can make the Honda chassis FUN for the average guy. Out of all of the machines that I have experimented with on torque settings, this bike reacts the most to it, so pay attention to your nuts/bolts on your Honda!

Follow the torque spec sheet below and make sure to blue Loc-Tite the bolts/nuts on each to ensure you have no issues down the road.

Rear Axle Nut (Qty. 1): 

Stock: 128 Nm

Updated Spec: 120 Nm

Fork Top Clamp Pinch Bolts (Qty. 4):

Stock: 22 Nm

Updated Spec: 19 Nm

Fork Bottom Clamp Pinch Bolts (Qty. 4):

Stock: 20 Nm

Updated Spec: 16-17 Nm

Swingarm Pivot Nut (Qty. 1):

Stock: 88 Nm

Updated Spec: 81 Nm

Front Engine Hanger Plate Bolts (Qty. 4):

Stock: 26 Nm

Updated Spec: 24 Nm

Front Engine Hanger Plate Nut (Qty. 1):

Stock: 54 Nm

Updated Spec: 51 Nm

Cylinder Head Hanger Bolt (Qty.2):

Stock 54 Nm

Updated Spec: 51 Nm

Cylinder head Hanger Plate Bolts (Qty 4):

Stock: 32 Nm

Updated Spec: 29 Nm

Shock Absorber Upper Mounting Bolt (Qty. 1): 

Stock: 44 Nm

Updated Spec: 42 Nm