Action And Reaction (Shock)

With every action there is a reaction right? This is no different when it comes to dirt bikes and the mechanics of each change/adjustment. Since suspension is always a hot topic with motocross machines, I thought why not give you guys some insight on what each change point/adjustment available to you is on the shock, as well as what it can do out on the track (good or bad). The action of one change can have reaction on the opposite end of the machine as well, not just the focused area. Here is a breakdown of action and reaction, shock edition. If you’re looking for the “fork” portion of this article, check it out here: https://www.keeferinctesting.com/offroad-testing/2021/6/22/action-and-reaction-fork

Shock: 

Low Speed Compression: Low speed compression damping will allow your shock’s stroke to stiffen or soften when compressed at lower load situations. 

Action/Stiffer: Stiffening the LSC can allow your bike’s ride attitude to be flatter with less pitching on/off throttle, can help with wallow feeling through rollers, can help keep rear end down on initial bump impact, bump absorption can improve if shock is riding too low in the stroke, give the rider a firmer feel to allow them to ride more aggressively (more performance).

Reaction/Stiffer: Going too stiff can cause harshness or a too firm feel when hitting bumps, can cause deflection when shock is light in its stroke (off throttle situations), can cause less rear wheel traction (especially on lean angle), can give rider a less plush feel on bump impact, less movement in rear end which can give a rigid feel through seat, can overpower fork and allow bike to be front end heavy down hills.

Action/Softer: Softening the LSC can increase plushness, allow the shock to move further down in the stroke under load or increase comfort on initial bump impact, make the action of the stroke faster, can increase rear wheel traction (especially on lean angle), give a more supple feel through the seat when accelerating out of choppy corners. 

Reaction/Softer: Allow the shock to go through stroke too much (low rear feel), which can create a fast moving rear end feel, less damping feel on bump impact, create a low rear end feel that allows the rear end to kick you on braking bumps (which can make transfer of weight to front end, too abrupt off throttle), oversteering through area 2 of corners because rear end unloads to fast on de-cel which causes front end to knife, make fork feel too high on throttle, which can make fork deflect, causes shock tp bottoming more than 2-3 times per lap.

High Speed Compression: High speed compression damping will allow your shock’s stroke to stiffen or soften when compressed at high-speed load situations, but can also can act like a secondary ride height.  

Action/Stiffer: Depending on if you’re a Showa, KYB, or WP rider will depend on how much you will want adjust the HSC knob to feel a difference. A Showa shock is more sensitive to turns than that of a WP or KYB shock. I would adjust HSC on a Showa shock by 1/6 turns to feel a difference versus a 1/4 turns on a WP/KYB shock. Going to a stiffer HSC setting on your shock will raise your rear end and give you more hold up in g-outs, up faces of jumps, out of corners (on-throttle) as well as create more front end bite when entering into corners (area 1-2). Adjusting the high speed is sometimes scary to weekend riders, but shouldn’t be feared as it is one of the most notable changes you can make to your shock. Adjusting the HSC can give a  rider a plusher feeling if he/she is too low in the stroke. Increasing HSC can get you out of the harsh portion of the shock’s stroke if you’re too low on accel/de-cel. HSC can make the ride attitude of the bike more balanced front to rear.

Reaction/Stiffer: Negative affects of going stiffer on HSC can range from deflection on/off throttle, rigidity feeling up, low front end feel, too firm of a feel when hitting bumps on acceleration, harsh feeling through your feet, oversteer (knifing on lean angle), allow the bike’s ride attitude to be too front end low/rear end high and cause kicking on de-cel as well as nose end heavy off jumps.

Action/Softer: Softening the HSC can increase plushness on braking bumps, give the bike a flatter overall feel when chopping throttle in soft dirt, allow the shock to move further down in the stroke under heavy load, make the action of the stroke faster (less damping feel), can increase rear wheel traction (especially on lean angle/more tire contact patch), give a more supple feel to the hands through the pegs. 

Reaction/Softer: Allow the fork to ride too high in the stroke, can cause front end pushing through corners, fork deflection, create a low rear end feel that can make the rear of the bike wallow through rollers/waves, causes too much pitching on/off throttle (teeter totter movement), harsh feeling (firm) around the track because the shock is riding in the stiffer part of the stroke/damping (mid-stroke), unbalanced feel around track (more comfort in rear end with less comfort on fork). 

Rebound: The rebound damping allows the shock’s shaft to move faster/slower when compressed/released. It can also act as a type of damping force as well. 

Action/Faster: More rear end traction because the shock is moving faster, which in turn is causing the rear tire to get back to the ground quicker over bumps/square edges, can help straight line stability, can increase plushness through the beginning to mid stroke, can help get more lift off jumps.  

Reaction/Faster: Can cause side to side movement on throttle under slight lean angle (edge of tire), could make shock feel too soft/low on acceleration bumps (diving), can cause pushing sensation of rear tire through area 2-3 (middle to end) under throttle, can put too much weight on front end through corners.

Action/Slower: Can allow for more damping feel (firmer), slow the rear end down off throttle which can give you increased front end traction in ares 2 (middle) of corners, more planted feeling coming into deep braking bumps, less movement of the initial stroke/under throttle while hitting acceleration bumps, can allow bike to soak up jump faces more (less air).

Reaction/Slower: Can give rider a harsher feeling on/off throttle when hitting bumps, could make shock feel too firm on acceleration through choppy bumps (too high/harsh), can give less rear wheel traction on hard pack chop, front end high feel off jumps, can cause a ride attitude that is too low off throttle, that low feeling can give the rider less cornering stability through choppy ruts because it will pack and give the front tire less contact patch.

Sag: The sag measurement is important because it gives the correct preload on the shock spring for your weight. Sag is also important because it gives the bike its intended ride attitude when designed. 

Action: Getting the correct ride height (or sag) is crucial because when the bike is designed, it’s designed with the a certain amount of preload. The chassis will not act like it is intended (when developed) if the sag is not set to the correct setting. Having the correct sag will give you the ride attitude/balance around the track. 

Reaction: If you’re sag is too high, the rear of the bike can be harsh/deflect on square edge, cause the front end to be too heavy (or low feeling) off throttle, front end oversteer in corners, as well as give the balance of the motorcycle a stinkbug feel. Having the sag too low can allow your front end to be vague in corners (less front end bite), give the rider less rear wheel traction out of corners (under load) and could even cause more pitching on/off throttle. If you’re looking for a little more front end bite or more front end steering then try going up slightly (less sag) on your preload. If you want more stability on faster tracks or on deep sand tracks try going with more sag (rear end lower) for increase stability and a less front end heavy feel. 

Getting In The Industry (Test Rider 101)

Keefer, I want to help you test”. Of course you do, but do you know what you have to do once off of the bike? Do you know what the correct way to do things when you’re on the bike testing? I hear this statement all the time, but I end up asking the questions above to the person, every single time I get asked. To me, I don’t think a lot of people understand the ins and outs of testing. From the outside, a gig testing for Keefer Inc./Racer X or any other motocross media outlet appears to be one of the best jobs in the industry and it is! Where else do you get to ride the latest bikes, sometimes on private tracks, while wearing new, free riding gear? Yet, despite all the apparent perks, being a test rider is actually a tough job that requires dedication, being an honest person (well, hopefully), persistence and more than a little luck. The purpose of this article is to fill you in on some of the false notions surrounding the gig of being a test rider and to tell you how to become one if, that is, what you are looking to do.

Falsehoods That Surround Being A Test Rider:

There are several components of being a test rider that aren’t exactly understood by those trying to get this type of job. Here are some things that I put together that you all may think happens in the testing world, but are simply just falsehoods.

Fiction: Testing is easy work. While you may think that bike tests involves simply cruising out to the track, throwing some big whips for the camera, being back at the house by 2 p.m playing video games, you couldn’t be more delusional. Testing is hard work and those that do it right, do a lot of it! Most of my test days begin early in the morning to take advantage of the quiet time I have at home to type and typically don’t finish a testing day until I run out of light in the evening. Don’t get me wrong, it is fun, but becomes more like a real job the more you do it. The toughest thing about being a test rider would have to be the long days I put in at the track and only to return home to start typing an article or a podcast. I am mentally fried by the time I am ready to hit the sack. Sorry Mrs. Keefer, you’re not getting any tonight! To evaluate a motorcycle in a comparison situation you have to make sure you give equal time for each bike, and that could be up to six motorcycles! So, it is definitely a full day. Your body is tired at the end of the day right up to that last bike you get on, but you have to make sure you’re in the right frame of mind (and in shape) when you are testing at 5:30 in the evening. You have to make sure you are fair and not in a rush to leave the track just because you’re tired.

Fiction: Test riders get paid a lot of money. Believe it or not, I don’t pay my test riders (I only have two guys) a whole hell of a lot for their services. While this may seem unfair, consider the flip side: My test guys get to ride the latest bikes, get parts and gear to test and keep. Your hobby is work, but at least you don’t have to pay for your hobby. Not only that, but they end up getting a lot of time on each bike, which makes it a great gig for aspiring pros or those who desire a lot of training. When I started at Dirt Rider, I got paid nothing for years until a check showed up for a couple hundred bucks after a shootout. I had to put in my time and pay my dues in order just to get a couple hundred dollars. When you test for a manufacturer (think durability testing) you will get a set amount per day, but it is usually only a couple hundred bucks per day for a 12-14 hour day

Fiction: You have to be fast or a pro to be a test rider. FALSE! Being a high-level racer type certainly makes someone a good test rider on paper, but this isn’t always the case when it comes to track time. Many pros are very adept at gauging what is going on with their equipment; conversely, some pros can’t even tell if they have a flat rear tire. Trust me, I have seen it! Speed is not directly related to having a good sense of what a bike is doing and as such I try to use riders of every skill level. When I test for manufacturers I have to be conscientious of the fact that these bikes need to perform for a wide variety of riders, not just what I like. When doing stuff for Keefer Inc., I usually try to have multiple opinions in which helps broaden the evaluations I bring to readers, since not everyone out there is a Supercross Pro. This is also why you’ll see mid forty year old, blue collar guys testing in my tests alongside 240 pound weekend warriors, not just 170 pound fast guys; diversity only enhances the value of testing.

Fiction: Test riders get to roach out bikes. While I can’t say the same for other testing sites, there is no denying that I ride a lot and spend almost as much time in my garage as I do on the track. Why? Because I adhere to one simple rule that my dad preached to me when I was young: treat anything you ride as if it was your own. One look around my garage and you will find clean bikes, lubed chains, fresh filters and fresh engine oil in the machines. I take great care to not only keep the test bikes in solid shape, but also to know what makes them tick and this transfers into getting the correct feedback to you all. On the track or on the trails, I encourage my test guys to ride a bike to its full potential, but this in no way includes thrashing it. All of the manufacturers are great dudes and if I trash a bike and give it back to them like that, I would feel like shit.

So now that I brought up some common myths about test riding, how the hell do you become a test rider? 

Be Persistent And Available:

If you really want to test rider, the first thing you need to do is to make yourself available. Like “I don’t have a life” accessible and on short notice. I usually like to get the information out to the people ASAP, so I often have to plan test sessions without much warning. As a result the guys I have used earned their test riding moments by simply being in the right place at the right time. I have literally talked to riders at the track and I could tell by just the way they treat their bike, how they ride and what type of attitude they have, offered them to try out test bikes. Some of those guys came off articulate when it comes to explaining how a certain bike performs on the track. Sometimes being lucky and in the right place at the right time helps. This isn’t a slam dunk and doesn’t mean that you’re going to be a test rider, but it helps to have a good presence at the track. Say hi to people at the track and look like your enjoying yourself instead of hiding out in your van all day.

Knowledge Of Dirt Bikes:

Please for the love of all that is holy know which way to turn a clicker to speed up the rebound? What does a bike do if the mapping is off? How does the bike react if the sag is set wrong? Do you know what sag is? These questions-and more like them-all need to be answered by a test rider before getting the job. No one is looking for super freaks when it comes to bike knowledge, but a test rider needs more than an elementary idea of how a motorcycle works and how certain changes affect its performance on the track. A test rider needs to be picky enough to know how he or she likes their setup, yet open-minded enough to be able to try something different (I to can struggle with that last part at times). He (or she) cannot be afraid to try new settings, setups and has to be vocal enough when something isn’t working. If you don’t know or can’t feel a difference between bikes or settings, then it is OK to say “I can’t feel a differnce”. Most importantly, a tester needs to distinguish between what effect the track is having, what the bike is doing and what the rider or his technique is causing. This comes with either a natural ability to know a dirt bike, or lots and lots of seat time

Confidentiality:

A lot of my work is confidential and if I screw that up, I wouldn’t have a job. If you can’t keep a secret, don’t even think about trying to become a test rider. If you give up a secret before it comes to production, you risk getting blackballed from any type of testing! The word “embargo” is gold with the manufacturers. I mean Matthes tries to get shit out of me all the time and I simply just tell him, “I know nothing”! Some people think it’s no big deal and I am being too intense, but I take my testing extremely serious and that includes not talking about things until they are in production or the embargo has lifted. The best test riders are not only great at breaking down each machine, but they would have to be water boarded before giving up the goods of a new bike or part.

Be A Good Person And Professional:

As most of you know I like to have fun just as much as the next guy, but when it comes time to start busting ass and working, I am all in. Playtime is over and work mode kicks in. As a test rider I am representing myself and am expected to be professional at those times. This includes not riding like a jackhole at intros, treating people with respect, not looking like I just woke up on the beach the night before, not showing up to the track late or in old, thrashed riding gear and not typing up a second grade opinion of something on an iPhone. Being able to formulate a solid opinion is not only helpful, it’s essential; what good is a rider who can feel what a bike is doing, but can’t put it into words. Or if a rider just starts making up shit to sound like he or she knows what the hell they are talking about. Being punctual is also key when turning in reports on time. I get so many kids that just want to ride the bikes and then go home to throw up an Instabanger to pull chics. Go home, get the report/opinion done and send it in. That is how I got more work. It’s surprising how much of a big deal that is to companies. So many people want to do the fun shit, but not the hard stuff afterwards. Lastly, if you don’t know how to spell at least 90 percent of the words on your report, go take a college course, so you can have the complete package or “The Quan” as Jerry McGuire would say.

Be Consistent:

As with many things, consistency in testing your own stuff is key. Know what you like and stick to it, but again, don’t be afraid to be flexible and try new things. Don’t ever use the word “perfect” in the testing world. There is nothing perfect because everything can get better through testing. An old saying goes “you’re only as good as what you try”. I try to live by that motto when it comes to testing. When I work with manufacturers, consistency is also important because it provides a common goal to work toward. We always have a baseline setting that we are looking to get better than and sometimes we will re-visit that baseline setting along our testing path. Consistency on the track plays a big roll to making bikes better as well. When on the track make sure to hit the same line every lap when you’re testing, so your feeling on the bike never sways one way or the other. If you pick a smoother line one lap and miss the bump you were hitting, you’re not getting an apples to apples comparison.

Help Wanted:

The worst way to approach any one in the industry is to walk right up and demand to be allowed to ride a bike. Instead, it’s better to prove that you have the skills to be a good test rider and that you can follow it up with consistent feedback and valuable opinions. I like that a few riders have given me (at the track, I may add) professional printed out tests of their machines and that goes a long way in my eyes. If you have taken the time to architect an article on your machine and then have the balls to present it to someone, that shows responsibility, gumption, being pro-active as well as not being a lazy ass! All things that I love! If you’re serious about a job in this industry try a few of these things and see where it gets you. You will never know if you don’t try! See you at the track!  As always our door is open to you, the reader, if you have any questions I would love to hear from you! kris@keeferinctesting.com

2021 Honda CRF450R First Ride Impression

The most anticipated motocross bike of the year is finally here and I actually get to speak openly about it! Hallelujah! The 2021 CRF450R looks nothing like last year’s model and on the track it’s quite a bit different as well. Instead of going over all the change points in this article, you can do yourself a favor and just click here to see what Honda changed on the 2021 model: https://powersports.honda.com/off-road/competition/crf450r. Basically the only parts you will be able to reuse from the 2020 is the front wheel, footpegs, handlebars and grips. Everything else has been massaged or completely revamped. Here is the meat and potatoes of what you can expect to feel from the 2021 Honda CRF450R out on the track. 

Engine: The problem with last year’s CRF450R was that it had too much power in low speed areas of the track. It came on too hard and was tough to manage unless you were riding deep sand all the time. The 2021 CRF450R’s engine character comes on smoother and lasts longer than the 2020 version. I am able to use second gear without the herky/jerky feel coming through area 2 (middle) of corners. When I roll my throttle on there is less reaction to the chassis which is a welcomed attribute for 2021. I have to retrain my brain that the 2021 Honda’s second gear is much more usable than a Yamaha or Kawasaki. Pulling power in each gear is similar to a KTM 450 SX-F in where it’s very precise putting the power to the ground, but still has enough torque to get you over an obstacle immediately out of corners. It has a sneaky fast engine character, similar to a KTM 450 SX-F. 

If you were looking for a more controlled Honda engine without as much excitement down low, this is your year! The 2021 Honda CRF450R pleases less skilled riders more because of how non-violent its hit is in Map One. Boom, there it is! That’s right I said it, in map one! Map one is controlled, long and linear, but map three is more peppy with more rpm response. I used map three a lot at Glen Helen because although it did hit harder, it actually didn’t upset the chassis as much as I thought it would through corners. I was able to use third gear in a couple corners in map three, that I wasn’t able to manage in map one. Map two, although much smoother down low through tighter corners, was super connected to the rear wheel, but gave the CRF450R a heavier side to side feeling. 

On my test bike, the ECU setting on map one was a little rich/dirty feeling in a certain area of the RPM (5000-6000RPM). This upset my rear wheel connection some in certain corners, but not all riders or media outlets felt that once I asked around. However, it’s something to look for when breaking in your new CRF450R.

Chassis: To me this is the most important area Honda needed to get better in for 2021. The 2020 Honda was stiff and rigid to ride when the track got harder or rougher. Honda’s 2021 slogan is “razor sharp cornering”, but I don’t know if that was a great marketing slogan for Honda in 2021. I mean we already know the Honda corners great, do we really need a better cornering Honda? The good news is although it does corner better, it actually goes in a straight line better as well! No, the chassis isn’t as compliant as a Kawasaki, but it is a much better/softer feel around the track than in previous years I can remember. When the track gets square edgy and hard, the 2021 CRF450R now allows the rider to ride through some of those bumps rather than weave around them. Losing 4-5 pounds on a 450 is a big deal, don’t let anyone tell you different. Where do you feel the weight loss of the new Honda? In corners! There’s that slogan again… “Razor Sharp Cornering”. Leaning into a corner is much easier than the 2020 and cornering stability is also up from last year. Where the Honda can still use some help would be through longer corners with ruts. The balance of the bike can still be front end heavy so oversteer is apparent in those longer corners of any track. In order to balance that out you can drop the fork down to 2mm in the clamp and that will help bring cornering stability up more without sacrificing lean in feel. 

Suspension: Plain and simple the Showa fork and shock have better action and plushness in 2021, but to me is still on the soft side for a 170 pound fast rider. You will have to increase fork compression dampening a few clicks as well as open up the rebound dampening one click. Doing this helps keep the CRF450R from pitching on de-cel and keep the balance of the bike happy. Shock sag is set to a normal 105mm and also stiffening the low speed compression does help the Honda’s chassis happy on throttle coming out of corners. Once these clickers are set, I feel like the Honda is the happiest it has ever been. The 49mm Showa fork has good lean angle, on throttle, front end feel and less harshness in the mid stroke than 2020. Again, dropping the fork down from 5mm (stock) to 2-3mm in the clamp helps increase stability. Although not as finicky as the 2020 (track toughness), the Honda does like to be up in the stroke a little higher. I do feel like most aggressive or heavier riders could benefit from going up one spring rate on the fork/shock. 

Track Toughness: This is what you guys want to know! Is the 2021 CRF450R have more track toughness than the 2020? A resounding YES! When the track changed for the worse (on our test day), our morning settings on the 2021 CRF450R didn’t go to shit. This is great news for Honda buyers! Now does that mean its track toughness is better than others? That is something I will find out in the coming weeks as I ride this at more tracks with other machines. 

Same/Same But Different: The 2021 CRF450R’s ergonomics feel as good if not better than last year as the flatter seat profile puts you on top of the bike more rather than in it, like the 2020. The Honda’s one exhaust note is now much quieter and pleasant to the ears when Barcia’ing your way around the track. The brakes on the Honda are the best in the Japanese category as well as the new hydraulic clutch. The new Honda Nissin hydraulic system has a longer/more linear engagement than the Kawasaki and will not fade under heavy abuse. The new clutch feel as well as durability alone is worth a lot to me. I couldn’t stand the slipping that I would get with the 2020, but the 2021 has more positivity to the rear wheel with no dragging. 

So What Do I Really Think? With the Honda weighing in at 244 pounds full of fuel it feels like it’s almost as light as a KTM 450 SX-F in areas of the track. The connective feel that I get from the rear wheel (once passed that dirty feeling down low) allows me to roll the throttle on harder and be more aggressive which I couldn’t do last year. The 2020 CRF450R gave me glimpses of hope and fun around the track, with disappointment mixed in. The 2021 Honda CRF450R gives me more fun around the track without the disappointment. Yes, it’s a better Honda CRF450R in almost every way! 

2020 Suzuki RM-Z 250 Blue Collar Project Part three

By: Colton Aeck

As you all might know I was assigned the 2020 RM-Z 250 and started the project of finding some horsepower as well as handling improvements on a small budget. If you haven’t checked out the first two parts of this article, go back and give them a read for a more in depth look on what we’ve done so far. For a quick recap, here is what we got so far: with the help of an FMF 4.1 muffler, a Rekluse clutch, a NoToil air filter kit and a couple mods to the airbox, we were able to find some hidden power on the RM-Z. Race Tech also stepped in and got the suspension more comfortable than stock so I was able to actually push hard late into motos. 

While we had already made a big improvement to the RM-Z power plant, I still wanted more. We’d done just about everything we could without opening up the money wagon to the engine so in order to get some more horsepower as well as save some money, our next move was to send the head off to Race Tech’s engine department. Andrew at Race Tech did a five angle valve job and custom porting to the head. He also gave us a custom mapped Vortex ECU to match the head work they performed. This is something that is relatively easy to do yet can make dramatic differences on the track.

After I tested this machine for a few days I went and asked Andrew a few questions about the mods. He said that on the dyno, the numbers reported a 10% Horsepower increase through the midrange and top end. Dyno’s are not the end all be all of on track facts, but for this test I did have to agree with what the dyno had to say. In stock form the RM-Z makes decent bottom end, but doesn’t do anything exciting when exiting the corner. It has a mid range that feels flat and lacks pulling power on top. In other words I can’t let it rev out too far. I have to short shift, but when I do that the Suzuki still doesn’t have enough recovery to get back into the meat of the power. Race Tech’s head helped the Suzuki right where it needed it and made the spread of power broader and easier to ride. I didn’t notice any increase in bottom end, but I didn’t notice a loss either, which was acceptable to me. 

The total cost of the head work and ECU comes in right around $1500, which isn’t a whole hell of a lot, when you’re looking at what you’re getting on the track. That’s only a little more than you’d spend on a full system exhaust, but in comparison I think you get more bang for your buck with the head/ECU work. A pipe can usually improve on the stock engine character, but in this case I feel the head work actually changed the engine character for the better. Being able to use second gear longer through corners helped make this an even more fun yellow bike to shred ruts with. Third gear is still not an option on tight corners, but now that second gear is longer, I am not worried about pulling third so early. I used the stock gearing, but am looking to possible go up a tooth in the rear to see what it can offer me in third gear exiting corners. With the head work and Vortex ECU the Suzuki pulls down each straight farther and has slightly more recovery when I make that mistake. I like that the Race Tech mods gave me the sensation of a more playful yellow zook while keeping the reliability of this machine in tact. Yes, the Suzuki is reliable! I have been riding/racing the crap out of this bike and have experienced zero issues with it. After racing long/fast GP style courses as well as the tight ruttier technical mx tracks, the Suzuki has been easy to work on in the garage. 

After we got the motor sorted out, I made a few mods just for personal preference. I’ve been a Renthal guy all my life, but since testing with Keefer, I’ve really begun to like Pro Taper’s SX Race handlebar, so that’s what I chose for the RM-Z. They also sent me their “Twister” throttle tube, which is an aluminum tube with a bearing on the end of it. I honestly thought it was a bit of a gimmick, but I fell in love with how smooth and easy it makes the throttle pull. I’ll be running those on all my personal bikes from here out! The stock seat cover looks grippy, but I found myself sliding around quite a bit under acceleration. Motoseat fixed that problem with a ribbed gripper seat, yet it wasn’t so aggressive where it hurt my rear end after a long day in the saddle. 

My personal favorite tire combo is the Hoosier 25S front and 25 rear, so that’s what I chose for the RMZ. I like this combo because the tires have a great carcass feel an have excellent lean angle traction for me. Hoosier has a reinforced sidewall with the “S” models, so if you’re looking for a bit of a longer life span, look at the 25 “S” Hoosiers. Finally Elusive Graphics made it look pretty with a custom set of Keefer Inc Testing graphics. 

So now the big question. With the work we did, is the RMZ 250 competitive with the other bikes in its class? Yes and no. Does it have have the bottom end torque of a Yamaha? 

It still DOES NOT! Does it have the pulling power and over-rev of a KTM or Husky? No. 

The RMZ engine isn’t the best in any category, but with the work that we performed to it, it still can be respectable racing machine without the pricing of the other five manufacturer models. 

Where the Suzuki really shines is in handling. It corners as good or better than any bike on the track and it remains predictable and stable at speed after some suspension work. Simply put, it’s easy and fun for me to ride. I still ride at a high level and I would take this bike to race (with these mods) any day. 

So who is the RMZ 250 best for? 

I think it is best suited for a younger rider moving up to big bikes, a novice without a lot of experience or just your average guy who wants a great handling 250F that’s super fun to ride without breaking the bank. 

For the serious racer in the 250 class, horsepower is a massive part of the right? Simply put the RM-Z is down on power compared to its competition. Unless you have a big budget for engine mods, you’ll be fighting an uphill battle, but Race Tech helps soften that blow with a reliable head mod that makes more power. 

Suzuki has the handling/ chassis figured out. All they need is a faster engine and I think they could be in the running to win shootouts. Only time will tell if Suzuki has the budget to figure that part out, but just know there are modifications to the head that Race Tech offers you RMaRMy members without breaking the bank!

Bonus Tip:

If you own an 2019-2020 RM-Z 250 and you experience some chassis stiffness, think about giving this a try. 

I drilled a 4mm hole in the center of the upper engine mounts (in the middle). On the track it will give you a slightly softer feel through small chop as well as hard slap down landings. What I didn’t expect though, was increased front end bite on initial lean while turning. 

It’s a subtle change, but definitely something you all should feel. On hard packed So Cal tracks, it was a welcomed improvement. 

Stay tuned to the Keefer Tested podcast in the coming weeks where Kris and I will sit down for a little wrap up on my experiences with the 2020 RM-Z 250. 

2020.5 Husqvarna Rockstar Factory Edition FC450 Update

Written By: Kenny Day (Keefer Inc. Test Rider)

It’s that time of year where we are getting closer to the reveal of the 2021 models! Most of us are siting at home and wondering what changes will be made as well as how the manufacturers will take a bike that’s really good and somehow make it even better?  With the all new 2020.5 Rockstar Edition FC450, Husqvarna uses this model to display some of the new changes that will be introduced to the production version in 2021.

Before we get down to the facts, let me tell you a little about myself.  My name is Kenny Day, 32 years of age and I’ve been beaten into this industry like a fossil my entire life. I started off as racer throughout the early years of my life, held a professional license and once that became nothing more that personal dream, I jumped ship from racer to industry guy. Six years as a Team Manager for the Traders Racing Yamaha team and now currently the Alpinestars gear guy for the greats of the sport such as Justin Barcia, Eli Tomac and many others.  I’m sure you may be thinking “cool story, but what gives you the credentials to be a test rider”. Well a Loretta Lynn’s championship two years ago in the vet class as well as years of learning and testing with the great Skip Norfolk over the past few years has taught me a ton about the way top professional teams go about setting up motorcycles. Enough about me, let’s get to the machine!

 I had several months on the production 2020 FC 450 before getting my hands on the Rockstar edition. The production FC450 had some great qualities that I really enjoyed such as a light nimble feel, the ability to put the bike wherever I wanted and at 4pm on a dry choppy Glen Helen Raceway, I enjoyed how mellow I could make the engine using features like Traction Control. I also had some negatives with the FC450 such as a very loose front end feel due to the AER fork settings as well as a lack of overall pulling power. I felt the engine characteristic of the production FC450 was quite mellow even when in the aggressive map setting.  Personally, I have never really enjoyed riding 450’s because I am a small frame weighing in at 155 pounds and yes, I use starting blocks…big ones.  I always felt like the 2020 production FC450 had a lot of drag to it and quite frankly I was always wanting more.

Okay let’s jump ahead, Day 1 on the brand new 2020.5 FC450 at Glen Helen.  Lap 1 around the perfectly prepped Glen Helen course and I have a smile on my face. The bike has a ton more power, less drag and it has fully transformed how the bike reacts on the track (due to the ECU changes). The new bike feels like a light, snappy rocket ship and I am still on the standard map setting. I feel as if the there is less engine braking with the updated map settings that were introduced to this model. Second on my list of happy feels, Suspension! Husqvarna and WP went with a stiffer suspension setting on both ends of this machine and it was a positive change. WP also introduced new fork settings as well as a new design that does not come on the production 2020 FC450. So how does all this translate to the track? I immediately have more feel with the front end, a better connection between the tire and the track. I also felt I had more holdup in the stroke with the forks, which helps in corners. The rear shock also gives me much better feel of holdup in the stroke, the entire rear of the bike feels higher, but in a positive way because I felt that the production FC450 had a very low “chopper” feeling to it.

Along with updated suspension settings and new mapping settings, the 2020.5 Rockstar Edition FC450 comes with some great features like the slip on FMF 4.1 Exhaust system, CNC machined Triple clamps, DID Rims and lots of trick anodizing to give this machine a “factory” look.  Please see a detailed list below of all the features that come with the Rockstar edition.

Overview:

Is this bike worth the extra money? In My opinion YES. I now have about 30 hours on this bike thanks to Covid-19 and I’ve made some small inexpensive changes that would allow me to show up and go racing with it as is. I have put on the FMF header to match the exhaust which broadened the power and made me feel I had a better connection to the ground on acceleration. I also purchased some FLO footpegs to give a wider platform and grippier feel.  After riding several different types of tracks and desert trails I feel setting my fork pressure a little on the stiff side has been a great improvement, I still have the front end bite in the corners as well as the holdup that I like with doing so. I currently run my fork pressure at 160 psi and have been happy with that. Lastly, I like running the sag between 95-100mm, anything over 100 gives me a chopper feel in the rear of the bike and throws off the balance of the machine for me. If you’re feeling low in the rear try this setting. 

One thing to point out on the new FC450 is the versatility of the maps. Most riders just use the standard map 1 that comes as you start your new bike, I suggest using the different combinations that are presented. For example, Glen Helen at 9AM freshly tilled calls for map 2 or the aggressive map. At 3PM when the track is choppy and baked out, I suggest map 1 with Traction control. Having the adjustability right at your fingertips is an amazing feature especially when you can change it on the fly on the track.

New Features of the 2020.5 Rockstar Edition FC450:

• Rockstar Energy Husqvarna Factory Racing team graphics 

• Updated WP XACT split air fork with a redesign of the internals
  including a new mid-valve damping system and new oil bypass in
  the outer damping-leg tube to increase comfort and performance 

• Updated settings on the fully adjustable WP XACT rear shock for
  superior suspension performance and feeling 

• Vented airbox cover included that can be changed without the use
  of any tools for a sharper throttle response according to rider
  preference or track conditions 

• PANKL conrod with a bushing in the small end reduces friction for a
  faster revving engine 

• Billet aluminum REKLUSE clutch cover increases durability while
  enhancing the factory look 

• CNC-machined triple clamps with adjustable offset [20 – 22 mm] and
  perfect fork clamping 

• Ultralight FMF Racing Factory 4.1 silencer with titanium body and
  carbon end cap 

• Anodized D.I.D DirtStar rims with machined, anodized hubs and
  three-cross pattern in the front for optimal handling 

• Hydro-formed frame with black premium powder coating 

• Magura hydraulic clutch for perfect modulation in all conditions 

• Floating front waved disc with disc guard 

• Lightweight and robust carbon fiber and polyamide composite
  subframe 

• Carbon fiber reinforced engine protector and mechanical holeshot
  device as standard 

• Handlebar-mounted map select switch also activates launch and
  traction control 

I hope my insight and experience with the 2020.5 Rockstar Edition FC450 has helped your purchasing decision in some fashion. If you ever have any questions feel free to email me at Racing23@alpinestars.com

Testing Terms Explained (Suspension/Chassis)

Since we are in some weird times right now with this quarantine stuff, I thought it could be cool to learn a little about what each testing term means. What better way to get more in tune with your motorcycle than learning what the definition is to each term. If you listen to the Keefer Tested Podcast or read anything here on keeferinctesting.com you will hear/see these testing terms being used. Some of you have emailed me and asked what the hell some of these terms mean, so below is your template on what each means. Hopefully you can use these to your advantage next time you are talking about your machine or need to get a certain point across to your suspension/chassis tuner.  

Pitching: This word is used when the rider lets off the throttle and the weight of the motorcycle forces the front end down. This usually happens when there is a lot of engine braking or the fork is too soft. The 2018 YZ450F was notorious for having a lot of this pitching when coming into a corner. Pitching can upset the chassis balance and can cause some oversteer through area 1 and 2 of corners. Pitching can also mean that a certain bike can squat (shock) too much under throttle out of corners causing the bike to have too much movement fore and aft. Pitching can make the machine seem unstable and cause the rider to not set up properly for corners. 

Hold Up: Hold up is mostly used when the fork or shock is riding too low in the stroke. When a rider is asking for more hold up he is usually wanting a stiffer compression setting so the fork or shock isn't “blowing through”. 

Harsh: This term has got to be the worst feeling to a rider. A harsh feeling is when the suspension is either too soft or too stiff. Yes, it can actually be both! If the suspension is too stiff the rider will complain about a harsh or firm feel through the handlebars. This stiff/harsh feel is caused by the suspension not being able to use all of its stroke. If the harsh feel is coming from the stiff side, opening the compression or the rebound can help alleviate some of this feeling. If the harsh feeling is coming from a soft sensation it’s because the suspension is riding too low in the stroke. Riding too low in the stroke can cause a harsh feeling because you are now in the mid stroke where the valving starts to ramp up to get stiffer. By stiffening the suspension a little you are now stiffening the initial part of the stroke which can actually make your bike feel plusher because your machine is riding higher up in the stroke around the track. “Harsh” is a tricky term because the cause of the harsh feeling can be from a too soft or too stiff of a setting.

Plush: I have never been a huge fan of this term, but the word plush means soft or supple feeling. If I hit something at speed most riders want their bike to feel plush and not harsh. However be careful when using this term to suspension techs as they may want to set your suspension up too soft. Plush can also mean the same with frame feel. For example, the KX450 has a plusher feeling to its frame than the of the Honda CRF450R. I like to use the term “bump absorption” more than the word plush. When the Kawasaki KX450 hits a certain square edge at speed, it has a better bump absorption feel than the Honda CRF450R. Off-road riders look for that plush feeling because they have less jumps to deal with and can hit roots/bumps at higher speeds. A softer compression setting or a faster rebound setting usually leads to a plusher feel.

Crust: We can thank air forks for this term. I came up with this term when I was at home during thanksgiving and I was watching my wife make a french apple pie. I always liked the middle of the pie more than the crust, so it immediately made me think of air forks. In order to get to the gooey goodness of the pie, I have to break through the crust right? Well air forks are the same thing! The top of the stroke of almost any air fork is called the crust because it’s usually has a hard/harsh feel initially and then you have some comfort. The crust usually gives you some deflection and a harsh feeling through the handlebars on small chop. We use the word crust because air forks usually feel like you have to break through the stiff portion of the travel in order to get to the softer/more forgiving portion of the stroke. WP has improved the air fork feel over the years so let's hope they continue down the path of a less crusty initial stroke on their air forks.  

Empty: This term can be used when talking about engine character or suspension feel. When talking suspension empty usually means there is not a lot of damping feel. If you say “I feel like my end stroke is empty”, it means that it blows through or simply doesn't have any damping feel. 

Rigidity Balance: Rigidity balance is an important term when testing any chassis. If the bike has a firm feel and its rigidity balance is too firm it could mean that it corners excellent, but feels very harsh and has deflection on rough/fast straights. If the rigidity balance is too soft the bike can have a wallow feeling when under throttle as well as give the rider less confidence on braking bumps because of its unpredictable feel. Rigidity balance is something that every manufacturer works a lot on when developing their machine. A bike has to corner with precision, but also have enough comfort in order to have good bump absorption. A machine that has great rigidity balance is a Kawasaki KX450 because it turns well and can hit bumps at speed with a consistent feel.   

Performance: Performance is a word we used in the testing world when a rider is looking to ride at a higher level as well as be able to push the motorcycle without having it be too soft. Getting a chassis or suspension package to have better performance is basically asking the tuner that you understand that you’ll sacrifice some comfort, in order to get a machine that you can slam into obstacles harder without getting blow through. Usually riders that are faster or heavier want a performance based setting so they can hit jumps as well as bumps at a faster rate. 

Comfort: A comfort setting is something most vet riders want so they don’t feel every little bump on the track. A comfort setting usually involves a softer setting that moves more in the stroke, but also can bottom out when hitting bigger jumps or larger bumps at speed. The 2020 YZ450F’s suspension package is a great example of blending both performance and comfort together. 

Blow Through: This usually happens when hitting bumps/jumps hard and the suspension just dives without much damping force feel. If your suspension feels like it’s blowing through then you need to try and get a stiffer setting through clickers or internally with valving.  

Vague: Vague is usually a term used by describing front wheel traction. Front wheel lean angle traction can feel vague when the fork setting is too stiff, have the wrong offset triple clamps, or if you have the wrong compound front tire. A vague feel means that you will be washing your front tire out under lean angle and the bike may have less of a contact patch. Running too much air in your tire can also give you a vague feel.

Damping Feel: Damping feel or force is the feeling of the suspension when moving down. Damping feel is used when explaining to tuners that you either have a soft feeling and need more of a stiffer setting. Damping feel can also be helpful/used when asked if the action of the suspension is too fast or too slow. 

Deflection: Deflection happens when either a suspension setting is too stiff or a chassis setting is too rigid. Deflection happens when your front or rear end hits a bump/square edge and your bike simply doesn't absorb it. It’s like a pinball bouncing around from some side to side and can cause you to roll the throttle off in a hurry. Deflection also causes you to have less contact patch and makes the bike feel less planted. Going to a softer setting with the suspension or chassis usually alleviates some of this feeling. 

Contact Patch: Contact patch is a feeling of how much tire is felt underneath you. Contact patch can be increased by running less air pressure in your tires, running a softer suspension setting, chassis setting and/or increasing/decreasing offset. I like using this term a lot with my evaluations because without the feeling of a wide contact patch it will feel like you are running bicycle tires on your dirt bike. Having a wide contact patch feel gives you more confidence to roll the throttle on sooner when exiting corners. 

2020 Kawasaki KX450 Vet National Race Build (Part One)

Written By: Joe Oehlhof

Five months ago, Keefer says to me while we were out riding, “Hey, you should race the Vet National.”  I responded back with, “Nah, it’s too much work getting ready for it.  I don’t have the time.” Of course immediately after Kris is done flapping his lips, his wife Heather chimes in with, “Yeah, you should race it. Kris will get you whatever bike you want.” My head sparked up and for some weird reason my mouth started to reply with, “Alright, in that case I am in”!  KK looks at Heather with a scoured look and says, “Wait, wait, wait…Whoa, Whoa, Whoa. You can’t be making those kinds of promises!”  A verbal agreement from any Keefer is a binding agreement so I immediately went Law And Order on his ass with “Nope, she said it.  That’s the deal.”  And Keefer replied with, “OK, we will get you a good bike and let you get it dialed in. Will you race it then?”  I reluctantly said, “Yes.”  Figuring it would probably never happen with Keefer’s schedule as well it being the fire season here in California (I am a San Bernardino County Fireman).  Never the less, we are roughly a week out from the Vet National and here I am preparing myself and a bike that I had about one month of time on.  

Getting the actual bike took a little longer than expected because of the “450 MX Bracket Shootout” and other factors, but in the end, Keefer decided to give me the 2020 Kawasaki KX450. Once he told me this, I got excited because I chose this bike as one of the top bike’s in this year’s 450 bracket. It’s a bike I feel really comfortable on, so I was excited to put some time on it, shake it down, and figure out what areas I wanted to address.

Luckily for me, Kawasaki provided a solid base to start from, which helps when you are in a time crunch.  The stock Kawasaki 450 is a great all-around bike for a wide range of riders, hence the reason why it got second in the bracket. For me the engine is strong yet very controlled, has a confidence inspiring compliant chassis, coupled with a smooth progressive powerband, that allows you to feel in control, while being able to push your limit. After spending a little over a week shaking this bike down, I came up with a few key areas that I wanted to improve. So here we go with phase one…

First area I wanted to concentrate on was the rider triangle which is really easy because I felt very comfortable with the stock bar position and bend. Call me old school but I do still like the 7/8” bar because of the flex that it provides. Kawasaki offers a lot of adjustability with several different bar position options with the triple clamp and two options with the foot pegs, but after trying several different combinations, I settled on the stock peg position and the bar mounts in the rear hole, facing in the forward position. Once I decided on this setup, I enlisted Pro Taper to provide that next level comfort. I went with the Carmichael bend Fuzion Bar because it’s a 1 ¼” bar, so you get the durability in case you have a crash, but comfort and flex of the 7/8” bar due to the option of locking or unlocking the cross bar. The locked position gives you a little firmer feel with less flex and the unlocked position gives you a bit more flex that mimics the character of a 7/8” bar.  Pro Taper also provided the oversized bar mounts, which easily bolted in using the rubber mounting and stock clamp. I rounded it out with the 1/3 waffle soft grips that added grip and comfort for my sissy hands.  

www.protaper.com

Next on the list of improvements was to boost the power for starts.  In stock form the Kawasaki KX450 provides a very broad manageable rider friendly powerband, but by no means is this bike slow. The power feels connected to the throttle, has excellent roll on bottom end with a strong pull through mid and top.  I had no complaints with the power delivery, I just wanted more. Don’t we all! I called the guys at Pro Circuit knowing that their relationship and years of experience with Kawasaki would provide me what I hopefully needed.  They sent me up with their Ti-6 Exhaust which provides a 1.5 pound weight savings as its titanium tubing is thing of beauty.  After bolting the system on (which is painless), I immediately noticed improvements throughout the power band.  It kept that smooth manageable roll on power, but increased it slightly, plus added more pull in the mid-range and thus improving the recovery time when shifting from second to third.  It also provided more over-rev just in case I got lazy (which is more common now that I am over 40) and I needed to leave the KX450 in second gear at times.  I know it sounds crazy to have a system that boosts power everywhere because usually it can be better in one area and not so good in another, but this system gave me exactly what I was looking for.  I have a couple more options to try to help move the power more, but that will be in phase two of this story so be watching for that.

www.procircuit.com

The last thing I was able to try in this phase of the Keefer forced “Vet National Bike Build” was another “comfort” piece. This piece made big improvements on the 2019 Suzuki RM-Z450 bike build, so we asked Kris Palm of FCP Engine Mounts to help me out for this green machine.  Factory Chassis Parts provided engine mounts with different a material and thickness (compared to stock) that allowed the chassis to flex differently yet shockingly provided a smoother overall feel, especially when the track is at its worst.  After a long day of testing with Keefer as well as doing two twenty-minute motos at Glen Helen, Kris from FCP bolted the engine mounts on and had me try them. If you have never ridden Glen Helen at 4pm just imagine a track that’s dry, most of the berms are blown out, has edgy off camber sweepers, kickers on the jumps, nasty braking bumps, and even nastier square edges through the corners, as well as down the next straight away. These conditions are commonplace here in California. If I was back home in Ohio, I may have not went this direction because of the soil differences, but since I am dealing with this kind of drier soil here on the west coast, I look for “comfort” when testing any part.  It’s miserable to ride a track as rough as GH when you’re not comfortable, but if you can make a bike work in those conditions, you have accomplished a great feat.  Like I said before, the Kawasaki chassis is (in my opinion) the best one out there, so I wasn’t sure if the FCP mounts would be able to improve upon that. In a nutshell, the mounts give the chassis just that little bit more flex, which takes away the transfer of energy that happens when you hit those bumps, so you don’t feel the sharpness of them as much. Upon entering corners, the FCP mounts take away some of that harsh hit you may feel and calms the movement of the bike down even more.  On initial lean through corners is where the mounts shine by allowing you to brake really hard and stick inside shallow inside west coast ruts.  Once in that rut, the bike stays planted and absorbs the acceleration chop better and continues down the next straight in a calmer manner.

www.fcpracing.com

I am really happy with the improvements we were able to make with bolt on parts and pieces from Pro Taper, Pro Circuit, and FCP.  Taking a good bike and making it a little better is always fun yet tough, so I am looking forward to phase two where I will be testing a remap of the stock ECU by Pro Circuit, modifying the suspension in order to dial it in for my weight and riding ability as well as a full clutch system from Hinson.  Stay tuned for that test as well as a Vet National story, to see how all of this preparation in one month’s time goes and the more difficult task of preparing myself with limited riding time due to firefighting duties, dad duties, and husband duties.  My hope is to give you guys that have regular jobs and family responsibilities a path to dialing in your bike, so you can enjoy that one day a week you get to ride. -Joe Oehlhof

If you have any questions about this test please feel free to email kris@keeferinctesting.com and he will try to do his best to answer any questions you might have.

2020 450 MX Bracket Shootout (Fourth, Fifth, Sixth)

As long as I can remember, shootouts have been a staple in our industry. I remember being an 11 year old kid reading about the 1987 80cc Shootout in Dirt Rider Magazine and then proceeding to ask my dad for a Honda CR80 because it was the winner. Little did I know that just because a machine wins a shootout doesn't necessarily mean it’s the best bike for you. There is a lot to consider when purchasing a bike, but it’s fun to see which bikes have certain standouts or feels best when riding them all back to back. Fast forward to 2020 and the format to these shootouts haven't changed much, so I thought it would be time to try something different. I decided to do a bracket style shootout (similar to a college basketball format), with two bikes/three riders per bracket, with the winner moving on and the loser going home. This style of shootout removes a lot of biases as well as gives test riders more time to dissect each bike with only two-three bikes for each test. Let’s face it, not every guy in this shootout is fit, so having less bikes to test at one time is probably best. I personally ranked each bike on how I felt each machine performed (my opinion, not fact) out on the track and used that ranking to create the bracket for the other testers in this shootout. The bracket battles went as such:

Yamaha Vs. Suzuki = Suzuki Loss

Kawasaki Vs. Honda = Honda Loss

Husqvarna Vs. KTM = Husqvarna Loss

B Main Bracket (Suzuki, Husqvarna, Honda): 

The 450 MX Bracket Shootout is done and dusted and we now have the fourth, fifth, and sixth place machines ranked. We tested these three machines below and ranked them based on how they stack up against each other for our final “B Main Bracket”. Below are those machines from the shootout as well as some brief highlights, opinions, and quotes from the riders. If you would like to dive more into the opinions of the riders as well as get more insight on each bike, head over to the “Podcast” section on keeferinctesting.com and simply click on “Keefer Tested” to listen to each bracket breakdown or simply click on the show over at Pulpmx.com. They are not only informative, but a fun listen as well. As always we are here for you, so if you need us you can email your questions to kris@keeferinctesting.com.

Fourth Place: Honda CRF450R

Why It Got Fourth: The Honda wins the “B Main” bracket because of its incredible pulling power/engine character and cornering ability. The softer the track is the better the Honda feels to the rider. Each tester commented how different the bike felt compared to the last time they tested it. The track conditions proved to be sandier than the last test and the Honda’s engine could get each tester in and out of corners the best out of this bracket on this day. The ergonomics of the Honda is unmatched and most riders felt at home quickly on the CRF450R. The Showa suspension has a good amount of comfort on de-cel bumps, but is masked by a rigid chassis that can sometimes make riders feel that the suspension is harsh. Dropping the forks flush in the clamps can make the chassis calm down on faster tracks, but just know that this will make the Honda turn in slower on entrance of corners. For how heavy this bike is on the scales, it feels as if it’s one of the lightest on the track and all the riders commented on how easily they could put the bike into tighter spots.  

Why It Could Have Won: The CRF450R needs more track toughness. The same reason it got fourth (and won the “B Main”) is the same reason why it didn't win the whole enchilada. The Honda feels great one day, have you skiing from ear to ear, and can make you feel like you forgot how to ride on another day. It can get frustrating at times! A more forgiving chassis feel along with a more linear power character can make this bike a winner come 2021! 

Rider Quotes:

“The CRF450R has so much power. It’s hard to believe that this is a stock engine!” -Kenny Day 5’7 160 pound Vet Pro

 “I was surprised how well the Honda worked today. I was expecting it to feel different, but I actually loved riding it today. The track was rougher, but also softer and I was able to push, unlike the previous week where I felt sketchy on the same track”. -Joe Oehlhof 5’10 195 pound Vet Pro

Fifth Place: Husqvarna FC450 

Why It Got Fifth: It’s crazy to think a bike this good gets fifth place, but this is how close all these bikes really are. I mean I liked this bike so much that I went out and purchased one from a dealership. So this goes to show you that a fifth place bike is pretty damn good! The Husqvarna scored fifth and was well respected for its easy to ride engine character and deceivingly fast mid-top end pulling power. You are able to clear obstacles that you would think you would have to hit harder, but the FC450 hooks up so well and is so quiet, that it makes clearing those obstacles less stressful. The shock is one of the best in class with its dead/calm feeling that inspires riders to dive deeper into rough corners, but setting up the AER fork is like hitting a moving target. 

Why It Could Have Won: The FC450 could have scored a better ranking if the suspension had a little more hold up and comfort. Husqvarna decided to break away from KTM’s suspension settings in 2020 and go with their own, but to most of the testers that did this shootout, the setting was simply too soft. Going up in air pressure on the WP AER fork only hurt the suppleness on slow speed bump absorption and that created an unbalanced feel front to back. It’s a give and take with this fork and it can be tough to find that perfect setting that each tester wanted.  

Rider Quotes:

“The Husqvarna could have easily been on the podium for me, but the AER fork feels soft and slightly inconsistent for my weight/ability.” -Kelly Gelhaus 220 pound Vet Intermediate 

“The Husqvarna allowed me to get on the throttle sooner into corners because it feels smooth. I thought this feeling would hurt more than help, but then I looked at my lap times and just smiled”! -Tyler Enticknap -195 pound 5’11 Pro

Sixth Place: Suzuki RM-Z450

Why It Got Sixth: The Suzuki gets sixth not because of a kickstarter, but because it lacks comfort and predictability. The BFRC rear shock is very difficult to dial in for the average rider and getting that rider to feel comfortable when the track gets rough is almost impossible. We would normally say for a weekend warrior that it wouldn't matter, but even novice testers noticed the lack of comfort in the shock when we would go back out onto the track after lunch time. The chassis is on the stiffer side like the Honda, but the RM-Z450 can still lay into ruts easily. The rider doesn’t have to give the Suzuki that much body english into their lean (coming into corners) because the Suzuki almost does the cornering for you. It likes to be laid over.   

Why It Could Have Won: It’s tough to say that the Suzuki would have won if they would have done X,Y, and Z because there are a lot of factors that Suzuki would need to address before we can even remotely think about that. However, does that mean it shouldn't be considered for a future purchase? Absolutely not, it should! The Suzuki RM-Z450 is affordable, is a reliable bike (even though that it may not have that reputation), has an easy to ride engine character, and is a machine that can help a rider get better at cornering. The sixth place bike is not a last place bike in our opinion. It still is a viable option and a great bike for 80% of the consumer that is looking to purchase a new motorcycle.

Rider Quotes:

“I liked short shifting the RM-Z450. It makes its power better when you don’t have to rev it, unlike the Husqvarna”. -Kenny Day 5’7 160 Pound Vet Pro

“The stiffer chassis feel to me helped when I loaded the bike harder coming down hills. The Suzuki felt better when I pushed it harder, but didn't work as good if I tried to smooth out”. -Tyler Enticknap 195 pound Pro

Which Bike Is Right For Me? 250 Vs. 350 Vs. 450

A question I get asked a lot is what size bike is right for me? While this is a question that is not easy to answer, I thought I would try to give you some perspective on what each bike is like to ride and how to determine which one could be right for you. I have tested the 2020 Husqvarna 250/350/450 and will use these bikes, in this article, as my baseline for explanation. As always I am here to help when I can, so please feel free to email me at kris@keeferinctesting.com if you have any uncertainties. That’s why I built Keefer Inc. Testing.  

FC250: The FC250’s engine character is smooth off the bottom end then starts to build power up quickly from mid-top end. It’s a very non-aggressive type of low end delivery that has a deceiving strong mid range torque character. The FC250’s delivery is meant for a rider that likes to carry momentum and not rely on sheer bottom end torque to pull him out of a corner. If you like to let each gear rev out then this engine is perfect for that type of riding style.You would think without tons of torque feel, the FC250 wouldn't have a lot of recovery when in the wrong gear through corners, but to my surprise, the Husqvarna’s engine has superb recovery time and will get you back down the track, in the meat of the power, in no time. 

FC350: If you have never rode a 350cc Husqvarna/KTM then you’re missing out. The 350 comes on slightly more aggressive then the 250cc engine, but packs more punch through the mid-top end range. Again, if you’re looking for massive amounts of torque out of corners this still isn't your cup of tea, but the FC350 does have some low end RPM response (excitement) that the FC250 doesn’t. Hopping over bumps and getting over a double out of a corner is much easier with the extra RPM response that this engine brings. Not to mention that the bike still feels as light as a 250 when cornering, so getting through the corners in order to be able to clear an obstacle is made easier with the 350. The pulling power of the mid-top end range is where this FC350 will put a smile on your face. Just when you think it’s time to shift, you’re wrong, so just let it rev out a few hundred RPM more. When riding the 350 to 450 back to back, the 350 feels as fast as the 450 on top end. I don’t feel like I am losing much ground to the 450 on fast straights as long as I am not going uphill. This is where the 350 will get ate up by the 450. Pulling power/torque/meat feel is the 450’s strong suit. 

FC450: The overall engine character of the FC450 still has that smooth easy to ride feel, but with slightly less engine braking than the 350 to me. Coming into corners you can feel less drag on the engine and less movement in the chassis compared to the 350’s engine. If you’re looking for a hard hitting 450 engine character this isn't your type of machine. However, if you’re looking for an easy to ride, connected to the rear wheel feel, deceivingly fast type of power, the FC450 could be just what you’re looking for. The FC450 doesn’t feel that much heavier on the track compared to the 350, but to me the 350 has more engine recovery than the 450 when in the wrong gear. The RPM response of the 350 is more lively than the 450, but you can get away with being lazy on the 450 and let that big motor pull you out of “the wrong gear trouble” without killing the engine. Basically what I am saying is that the 450 “chugs/lugs” better than the FC250/350 can. 

Now that we have each engine character broken down, where does that leave you? What type of rider are you? That is important when deciding on which size bike to purchase. You have to know what type of tracks you’re riding, how often you’re riding, how serious you take your riding, and how you ride. Ask yourself these hard questions and then you can use this guideline below to decide on which direction you would like to go. 

250cc Rider: You would be surprised on how many riders over 50 years old I have turned on to 250cc’s four-strokes and they are completely happy. The Yamaha YZ250F has unbelievable amounts of torque for the older rider that may need some of that because he may like to ride a gear high (AKA, still lazy because you’re old). With the 250cc machine you’re able to get away with riding harder than you should because it simply doesn't have the weight of the 450cc machine. You’re able to push harder into corners and work on your technique because you’re not scared of the engine delivery. You’re actually able to ride the machine instead of the machine riding you. Obviously bigger riders (over 200 pounds) will need more engine than 250cc’s, but if you’re in the 200 pound range and are a beginner type of rider I would actually recommend a 250cc four stroke to you. It’s safer and can help you jumpstart your on-the-bike fitness without the consequence of getting hurt because of fatigue on the bike. Being tired while riding a 250cc four-stroke is much safer than riding a 450cc four-stroke fatigued. If you’re a 85cc rider and are looking to graduate to a bigger bike you DO NOT need a 250cc four-stroke. You need a 125cc two-stroke. Chances are you’re a 110 pounds so a 250cc four-stroke is too much bike for you. 

350cc Rider: Just because you may be a bigger rider (200-230 pounds) doesn’t necessarily mean you need a 450cc motorcycle to get you around the track. In fact, I have had many 220-230 pound testers love the FC350 because they could actually ride it harder/longer than that of their 450cc machines. If you’re racing against guys in a class full of 450’s, having a a 350 as a weapon of choice to outlast your competitors could prove wise. I could see you may need a 450 if your local tracks are super sandy and deep, but if you have soft to intermediate terrain, a 350 is much easier to handle for a longer moto, than that of a 450. Let’s say you’re just an average weekend warrior that likes to hit the track with your buddies and race on occasion. The 350 is a perfect size machine to be able to enjoy some laps without worrying about getting whiskey throttle after lap four because you have arm pump. I really try to recommend a 350 to most vet riders that like to ride for fun and occasionally race because it really does have enough power to clear all the jumps on a local track as well as corner easy enough to help your technique because let’s be real, you know your technique is not up to snuff. Let’s face it, you work five days a week and can’t be at the gym like these other people that seem to have so much damn time, so why not get an engine character that you can control. It amazes me how some guys egos can get in the way of purchasing the right motorcycle. The 350cc engine will be easier to manage on rough tracks that will require some technique and finesse. 

450cc Rider: Look I am not going to sit here and tell you that a 450cc four stroke motorcycle isn't my favorite bike to ride, because it is! It’s easy to be lazy and go fast, but there is one caveat. You have to be in shape to hold on to it! If I didn't ride so much I would ride a 350 more, but all I do is ride so I like a 450 engine! You can’t just show up to your local track on the weekends, hop on your 450 and expect to haul ass for more than just a few laps. If you do try to do this without “help” your medical bills will be high and your wife will be pissed. The good news is that out of all the 450 MX’ers, the FC450 is the easiest to ride/control/handle because of its well mannered power delivery. You fit the 450cc rider checklist if you are serious about your local racing, like to keep yourself in shape, want to improve on both of the aforementioned statements, have been riding more than a few years, and/or just simply a bigger dude (over 240 pounds). I really try to let older vet guys know that they simply DO NOT need 450cc’s of power just because they can go out and buy it. They will never use all of it and they will get tired too quickly. To me that isn't fun. Fun is being able to ride more than four laps, rip corners correctly, and go home un-injured. The 450 is capable of giving you all of this as well, but just know it might take more work on your part to be able to do all of those things easier and the correct way.

Hopefully after reading through this article you have determined which type of rider you are, can relate to one of these machines, and decide which cc displacement is your next purchase. I understand it’s difficult to make a 9-10K purchase based on something you have yet to ride, but that’s where I try to come in and hopefully guide you in the right direction! A lot of these manufacturers have demo days at local tracks so be sure to look for those near you and try the new bikes if you’re able. See you at the track! -KK

2020 Husqvarna FC250 Start Up/Baseline Settings/Tips/Tricks

I had the chance to spend some extra time on the 2020 FC250 and managed to try several settings to see which direction could be the correct way for you Husqvarna owners. Here are a few baseline settings you can try to get more comfort out on the track. 

Suspension: For 2020 the Husqvarna theme was to get more comfort out of the WP suspension and although I think they did do that to a certain extent they might of went too soft for most of the riders that will be purchasing this machine. Here are a couple different settings (based on weight) to try next time you’re out on the track. Note: When adjusting your air pressure in your fork, make sure to check your fork pressure before you start riding as well as after your first session. Your AER fork air pressure will build up the first time out considerably within 15 minutes. After you come back in, let the bike sit for around 10-15 minutes and reset to the desired/recommended air pressure. The AER fork shouldn't go up in air pressure as quick/high for the remainder of the day. It will start to creep up, but the amount in which it does is not nearly as fast as the first time it gets warm. 

Fork: (150-170 pounds)

Air Pressure: 10.4 bars

Compression: 10 clicks out

Rebound: 10 clicks out 

Fork: (170-190 pounds)

Air Pressure: 10.6 bars

Compression: 14 clicks out

Rebound: 11 clicks out 

Shock: (150-170 pounds)

Sag: 105mm

High Speed Compression: 1-1/2

Low Speed Compression: 14 clicks out

Rebound: 11 clicks out

Shock: (170-190 pounds)

Sag: 105mm

High Speed Compression: 1-1/4

Low Speed Compression: 12 clicks out

Rebound: 13 clicks out 

Engine: If you’re looking to get more out of your engine without diving into the engine too much there are a couple relatively inexpensive mods you can do. A stock ECU re-map from Jamie at Twisted Development can get you some added RPM response along with some increased pulling power out of corners. If there is one area of the engine that the FC250 needs helps with it’s the low end RPM response and pulling power. The Husqvarna is NOT a torque monster, but instead loves to be ridden in the mid-top end range. With the stock ECU re-map the Husqvarna will get some more “pop” out of corners, have a free-er engine rev feel, as well as pull you out of the corner harder than the stock maps. The beauty is that you still have two maps to choose from, but now both newly programmed maps have more pull than the stock maps provide. It’s a relatively low cost item for the performance gain. Of course if you have the money a Vortex ignition is always a good idea, but that also will set you back 800-1000 bucks. The Vortex will give you increased power everywhere in the RPM range and can make your engine have an even free-er rev feel, which makes the FC250 more exciting to ride. A lot of times a Vortex ignition, muffler system, and suspension work is all I ever do to my race bikes.

The second option is going with an aftermarket muffler like a FMF 4.1 or even a Akrapovic. Both of these mufflers provided more mid range and top end but also increased throttle response. You will not be getting any added bottom end, but the good news is that you will not be losing any as long as you keep the inserts in. The FMF requires you to install the insert/spark arrestor and the Akrapovic comes with it already installed. LEAVE THEM IN! Back pressure is the Husqvarna’s friend. 

Gearing: Going to a 14/52 or 53 gearing helps with rear wheel placement and of course using third gear around the track more. Using this gearing puts the rear wheel back further and can increase the stability of the FC250 without sacrificing too much lean in when coming into corners. Also this modified gearing ratio will help get you out of second gear sooner and let you use the engine where it’s intended to be used. Second gear can bind this chassis up more than other machines (feels much tighter in second gear than Japanese bikes) when the track gets rough. Third gear has such a free-er feel (compared to second gear) on the FC250 that you will be able to pull yourself out of corners without the high rev/binding nature of second gear. Using this 13/52 gear ratio frees up the rear end under load/heavy throttle and allows for increased rear wheel traction. If you feel like you’re having to shift the FC250 too early coming out of corners, try 14/52-53 and use third gear. Boom! 

Triple Clamp Torque Specs: If you’re still living with the stock clamps you can try this torque spec setting on the pinch bolts for a more complaint front end feel (on braking bumps) with increased lean angle traction. If you DO NOT feel like you need more front end compliancy on the FC250 please disregard this and keep living your life. This was just an option that I stumbled across that can make some difference in comfort. Going slightly lower on the lower clamp torque spec helps with front end flex and fork stroke movement. Going to a factory Husqvarna accessory triple clamp eliminates binding and gives the FC250 a softer initial touch with more de-el front end comfort, but those are expensive right? Doing this minor torque spec mod helps bridge some of that gap between stock clamp and accessory clamp.  

Top Clamp Torque Spec: 17Nm

Bottom Clamp Torque Spec: 9Nm 

Axle Blocks: Invest in the Ride Engineering or the Works Connection Elite axle block kit as either or will give you more rear end traction and keep the left side axle block from binding up rear wheel/swingarm area. This is an old KTM Race Team trick. 

Engine Mounts: The stock torque specs on the FC250’s engine mounts are just fine and since we are talking about the engine mounts, the stock mounts are just fine as well. There is NO need for aftermarket engine mounts on this machine. Especially if you’re doing these chassis mods above, the frame flex character should be plenty compliant enough on wide variety of rough tracks. 

Black Throttle Cam: This goes without saying… Use the black throttle cam for best overall power to rear wheel connection. 

Maintenance Intervals: I change my engine oil every 2-3 hours of ride time, but for the normal weekend warrior you can go as far as 4 engine hours. I use Motorex, Blud, Maxima or FirePower 10/40 synthetic engine oil as they all work well on this machine. Keep a fuel filter handy in your tool box as they can get dirty and cause issues down the road with starting or even give you a dirty/rich feeling sensation when they are clogged. 

2020 Yamaha YZ250F Baseline/Start Up Settings/Tips

The Yamaha YZ250F is un-changed for 2020 so this baseline set up article can be used for the 2019 YZ250F as well. The Yamaha is the easiest small bore four stroke motocross machine to ride with its torquey low end and improved top end pulling power that Yamaha came up with in 2019. For this test we focused on trying to keep the comfort that the Yamaha comes with, but also try to get the YZ250F to accept a rider that wants to push his limits on this bike. Below are some settings that we think may be able to help drop your lap times while keeping the Yamaha planted underneath you. 

Suspension:  

The KYB/SSS/Yamaha suspension has the most comfort out of any bike in stock form, but if you want to start pushing the bike’s limits it can get soft and spongy feeling. After our initial test we took the 2020 Yamaha YZ250F to three vastly different types of tracks and noticed as the bike broke in all riders wanted more hold up from the suspension. We tried going to a heavier 4.8N/m fork spring (4.7N/m is stock) with the stock valving and to all three testers (160, 170, 190 pounds) liked the hold up and calmness that the stiffer spring came with. The heavier front spring helped the Yamaha’s chassis under heavy braking and each rider was able to push into rough corners harder without as much pitching. Settling into ruts was also easier because of the calm front fork feel. The rear of the bike can accept heavier riders better than the front so going to a stiffer rear spring for us wasn't warranted. What we really liked about this setting is that it didn't upset chassis balance and only improved the bike’s overall feel out on the track. Only a small increase of firmness was felt on the top of the fork’s stroke, but all riders agreed that the trade off was worth it. 

Fork: 

 Height: 5mm (Stock is 7mm)

Spring Rate: 4.8N/m (Stock is 4.7N/m)

Compression: 12 (Stock is 11 clicks out)

Rebound: 9-10 clicks out (Stock is 9 clicks out) 

*Optional Stock Spring Fork Setting*

Height: 4mm

Spring Rate: 4.7N/m

Compression: 8 clicks out

Rebound: 7 clicks out

Shock:

Sag: 105mm

Spring Rate: 55N/m

High Speed Compression: 1.25 Turn Out (1 Turn Out Is Stock)

Low Speed Compression: 8-9 clicks out (10 clicks out is stock)

Rebound: 9 clicks out (11 clicks out is stock)

ECU/Yamaha Power Tuner:

I really felt that the 2020 Yamaha YZ250F could benefit from a free-er engine feel on de-cel so I worked on a map to try and achieve this. This “Keefer Free Feeling” map gives you less pitching on de-cel coming into the corners and also made the Yamaha feel lighter through mid-corner, which helped keeping the lean through corners as well as change of direction. I felt like I could give up a small amount of torque to achieve this and that is what you will find when going to this map. You will get slightly less torque, keep that great mid-range pull as well as a slight increase in top end. If you want to also sacrifice a little torque feeling and increase the second and third gear pulling power (with the same amount of engine braking the stock map gives) go to the “Hard Hitting Map” Yamaha has pre-programmed on your Yamaha Power Tuner App. I use the “Hard Hitting” for my base map and the Free Feeling” map for my secondary map. Please don’t forget to update your apps on your phone as Yamaha does update their Power Tuner with new maps from time to time. 

Chassis: 

Please for the love of all things holy DO NOT screw/change the engine mounts on this machine. I will say that some aftermarket engine mounts will help some other OEM’s frame feel for the better, but in the case of the Yamaha YZ250F, it really doesn't need aftermarket mounts. I have no problem pushing products that work, based on each individual machine, but that doesn't mean that specific part works for every single machine. Some machines could benefit with a softer/stiffer mount combo, but to me Yamaha did a great job of blending comfort with cornering stiffness for 95% of us “normal” folk. When trying some aftermarket engine mounts on the 2019 YZ250F it made the bike have less predictability when the track got rough. When smooth I could see some benefit on initial lean through corners (lighter feel), but when the track got hammered the Yamaha was tougher to get into the corner because the damping character of the chassis was harsher on de-cel bumps. Could you make aftermarket engine mounts work on this bike? I am sure you could with the help of some suspension tuning, but the purpose of this article is to get you increased comfort/more performance with less hassle and money. If we were talking 2018 Honda or 2019-2020 Suzuki, I would be steering you into the aftermarket engine mount direction, but we are talking bLU cRU here people! 

Gearing:   

Two out of three test riders preferred the stock 13/50 gearing, but our slower heavier guy with less cornering technique liked going more the MXA (one tooth up) (13/51) route. Say what you want about going only “one tooth” up on a sprocket, but I can tell you that it does help on some machines with riders that have problems with using third gear in corners. The Yamaha has enough torque for intermediate type riders to use third gear in corners, but novices will appreciate a 13/51 ratio more to help them recover from mistakes. Going to this gearing will shorten the length of second and third gears, but it will allow you to short shift better and use the meat of the Yamaha’s power just like it was developed/intended. 

Seat: 

Do yourself a favor and get a 2020 YZ450F seat or a GUTS Racing firm seat foam. Yamaha changed the seat shape/stiffness in 2019, but still the middle of the seat can breakdown quickly and get soft. The fuel tank and subframes rails are not friendly when leaning on the edge of your seat or when you decide to seat bounce an obstacle out of a corner. 

Rider Triangle:

Yamaha’s rider triangle can be cramped for some taller riders, but simply going to the forward bar mount hole (on the triple clamp) with mount faced back will get you 16mm’s of more room. The 2020 YZ450F comes like this stock, but you can do that slight tweak yourself and get more weight over the front end. I am 6’0 and prefer the rear hole with the mount forward, but I have heard more than one taller rider complain about being cramped on the Yamaha. I have yet to try moving the pegs down/back, but will look into this as an option for you taller riders.

Maintenance: 

We have ridden the 2019 YZ250F a ton and although haven't had anything major go wrong with our YZ250F we did go through two stock batteries. Our YZ450F has never had a battery issue, but our YZ250F needed help in this area. We installed a FirePower battery in our test bike and had no other battery related issues. I also have received emails about timing chains going out and if we ran into this problem. The answer is no, but if you are a high revving, faster intermediate/pro type of rider, changing a timing chain every 20 hours is not uncommon. Follow your owners manual for regular scheduled maintenance, but just know that those maintenance schedules that Yamaha “suggests” aren't based on every type of rider. Each rider is different, but for the average rider/racer the Yamaha still has superb durability and is one of the few bikes that gives me less headaches during the course of the year. Please don’t believe everything you read on message boards and consider asking and trusting people and/or media outlets that spend a lot of time on these machines. I mean if I search up “headaches” on WebMD, I usually will read that I have some sort of Cancer and I should go to the hospital ASAP. Just because “Bobby Two Stroke” says Yamaha’s are ticking time bombs doesn’t mean they really are. Oh and you most likely DO NOT have Cancer, so everyone chill down. Sometimes message boards are a lot like WebMD, so proceed with some sort of caution. I am all not saying that a YZ250F’s will never blow up because they can just like any other machine. Take care of this bike and most likely it will take care of you.

Throttle Play:

Check your YZ250F’s throttle play when you get it home. Most of the units I have seen have had a ton of free play in the throttle. The bad news is you are not able to adjust it all the way out with the top throttle cable adjusters. You will have to adjust the cables play on the throttle body in order to get most of it out. After adjusting the throttle play on the throttle body, proceed to adjust the top throttle cable adjusters to get the desired free play. Throttle play is a preference, but to me there is way too much throttle play, off the showroom floor, on the YZ250F. I have went to a couple dealerships and blipped throttles just to check and most had A LOT of play. Check your throttle free play!   

Wear Items:

I am not a huge fan of the stock grips on the YZ250F as they feel fat, the chain guide and slider are actually pretty damn good on the YZ250F compared to other Japanese machines, sprockets and chains are your average 10 hour change out items, I go through clutch plates every 10-12 hours and I am fairly abusive on clutches, the 2020 air filter seals better thanks in part to a rubber grommet in the middle of the filter, but leave the backfire screen in for added dirt/particle safety, and the Bridgestone X20’s provide a good amount of traction and lean angle grip, but when they wear down slightly they are very un-predictable under hard lean angle.

If you have any questions about the 2020 Yamaha YZ250F please feel free to ask away at kris@keeferinctesting.com. Hopefully we can give you an intelligent and enlightening answer, but if we don’t know the answer to your question, we simply will reply with an “I don’t know”. We don’t know everything.

2020 Kawasaki KX450 Review/Baseline Settings

The 2020 Kawasaki KX450 is exactly the same as the 2019 Kawasaki KX450, but the 2020 version just has more green. Kawasaki focused all of its R&D efforts on the KX250 for 2020 so the bigger brother just got a few more green plastic pieces, but that doesn't mean we didn't hit the R&D’ing hard. I really wanted to get some updated settings for you Team Green riders out there in hopes that it will help you set up your 2019-2020 KX450 in a more timely manner. Here are some thoughts and settings on the 2020 Kawasaki KX450:

Engine Feel: Just in case you were trying to decide on if the 2020 KX450 is better than the 2018 version, let me tell you, there is no comparison. The 2020 comes on quicker with a lighter, more free-revving feel and has less engine braking. I am usually not a guy who likes to de-tune a stock 450cc motocross bike, but the Kawasaki simply is too crisp from 0-5% throttle opening on slicker/hard pack tracks. Yes, too crisp! Where you feel this 0-5% is when you’re barely on the throttle through longer ruts. The KX450 gets jumpy with the stock green coupler and it upsets the chassis, which makes you very inconsistent through corners. Once the black coupler is installed it controls that 0-5% and gives you an incredible, yet smooth pulling power that feels similar to a KTM 450 SX-F. The mid range has a nice amount of meat and the smoother pulling power of the top end/over-rev is noticeable on longer straights or up hills. I didn’t lose mid to top end pulling power with the black coupler (compared to the stock green one) and I could ride the KX450 more aggressively through corners. The engine is super connected to the rear wheel and never steps out coming out of corners. This is an impressive power plant! After I rode with the black coupler a few times I decided that I would like to increase the mid to top end pull so I created a map with Kawasaki to get some more in that area. *See below for map*  

Weight Feeing (Chassis): I was told that the 2020 Kawasaki KX450’s frame is 1.87 pounds lighter than it was in 2018. The total weight of the new machine has only increased roughly three pounds from 2018, but to me it feels lighter than the 2018. Why? I feel it is because of the way the 2020 Kawasaki makes its power. It is very free feeling and snappy which makes this bike have a very light/nimble feeling through corners. I am able to lay it down with ease and cut down under a blown out rut almost as easy as a KTM/Husqvarna. I do get a little twitch on de-cel (which can be fixed with a fork spring change), but it wasn't a horrible or un-easy feeling. Straight line stability is still the same straight and arrow Kawasaki feel that you expect, but with added traction. The frame absorption is the best attribute of this machine and other manufacturers should take notice of how well this KX450 feels when the track goes to crap. The whole bike feels friendlier than any other 2020 machine on square edge and the only other one that comes close in comfort is the Yamaha YZ450F.   

Hydraulic Clutch: The Nissin hydraulic clutch feels nothing like a Brembo or Magura. The Nissin hydraulic feel is a little bit of cable and hydro. What the hell does that mean Keefer? It means that there is a little play in the Nissin hydraulic lever that makes it feel like a cable pull initially. Unlike a Brembo where there is no play and is very touchy (on/off feel), the Nissin has more of a progressive feeling. So far I prefer the Nissin clutch engagement/feel over the Brembo. I like to ride the clutch a little with my finger while I ride, so having that little bit of play ensures that I don't burn up my clutch as quick. The clutch can slip at times under heavy load/under throttle if the track is super deep. You will be able to feel the lever start to creep in towards your grip when accelerating out of corners at times. To combat this you can simply remove the judder spring and add a fiber to the clutch pack.   

Suspension Comfort: The 2020 Kawasaki is so much more balanced than previous generation KX450’s and I was able to set the front end down where I wanted to without feeling like the front end was going to snap my wrists. The fork has tons of comfort, but is also too soft/divy for my liking. At tracks with hills or sizable jumps, the fork was too low in the stroke and bottomed too many times. Going stiffer on the compression only hurt de-cel bump comfort, so I settled on going slower on the rebound, which helped some. The shock is soft as well on slap down landings, but going eight clicks (two full turns) in helped keep the rear end up and thus helps wallow feeling. This setting will get you by on most tracks, but do yourself a favor and read the recommended suspension settings below for optimal balance of the KX450. The recommended settings below will help with hold up and ride comfort.

Cornering/Chassis: The 2020 KX450 is a more “neutral” cornering machine than in previous years. I am able to get more front end bite than last year, but also am still able to rear steer the green machine very well too. I had a rear end steering tester with me at the intro and he liked how well it backed into corners as well as much as I liked the front end bite from mid-exit of corner. I say mid-end because the KX450 still does have a slight vague feel on entrance of corners so Raising the fork up 2mm in the clamp helps this feeling somewhat and gives you increased front bite. 

Rider Traingle: The footpeg to seat to handlebar ratio is great! The seat is flat, which puts me more on top of the machine than “in” it like the 2018 did. I like this feeling and it makes maneuvering on the bike better for my 6’0 frame.

7/8 Handlebars: Some manufacturers go away from 7/8 handlebars, but Kawasaki keeps them around and I approve! They flex, they offer better vibration characteristics and unlike what most people think DO NOT bend THAT easily. I have crashed my brains out on 7/8 bars and they didn't bend as bad as I thought. I can live with 7/8 bars on a production machine. 

Brakes: Do yourself a favor and get a 2018 rear disc and hanger. The 250mm disc is too grabby and really screws up my corners/braking points. The rear end will slide when I don't expect it and this causes my corners to be herky/jerky. 

2020 KX450 Suspension Settings:

Fork: 

Spring Rate 0.51 Spring (0.50 is stock) *If B level rider and over 200 pounds 0.52 springs is also a great option*

Oil Level: Standard

Compression:12-13 clicks out

Rebound Range: 11 clicks out

Fork Height: 2mm

 Shock:

Spring Rate: Standard (190 pounds or over, try one spring rate heavier)

Low Speed Compression: 16 clicks out

High Speed Compression: 1 1/8 turns out

Rebound: 11 out

Coupler/ECU Setting:

The engine on the 2019 KX450 in stock trim is exciting and makes the Kawasaki feel light. It has great RPM response, but does have a little dip from mid to top, so I created this map to help fill that dip in and make it pull slightly longer. You will notice a slightly more linear (more control at low RPM) pull down low without the jerky feeling through corners. With this map installed it helped settle the chassis down through long ruts and improved overall traction feel. In the testing world we call this "cornering stability". With this map installed it helped the 2020 KX450's cornering stability, especially on intermediate terrain. You will need to use the white coupler in and use the Kawasaki FI Calibration Tool to create this map. 

Where Does The 2020 KX450 Rank Amongst The 2019 Shootout Winner:

I have come to really appreciate the stability of the 2020 KX450 and like how confidence inspiring it can be on rough tracks. It isn’t the leader in the cornering category, but it sure is the leader in bump absorption and comfort. The KX450 still feels long to me, but at least now I can feel my front end through corners, which for my riding style is very important. If you were to ask me what bike I would want to ride Glen Helen on at 3:00 PM? I would choose the KX450 a close second to the YZ450F. The KX450’s frame character and stable/neutral nature has me rolling the throttle on harder when conditions get worse. The only reason I pick the Yamaha over the Kawasaki is because of the engine pulling power the Yamaha has up the hills. The Kawasaki feels lighter than the Yamaha in corners and is easier to manage when making sudden rut/line choices. I also like the fact that I can explore different parts of the track and not have to back down my speed that much because the KX450 chassis remains calm. I appreciate the KX450 the more I ride it against other machines in its class.  

If you have any questions about the 2020 KX450 please feel free to ask away and email me at kris@keeferinctesting.com. We try to give you the correct path when choosing a new machine! They aren’t cheap! We know this!

2020 Yamaha YZ450F In Depth First Ride

For 2020, Yamaha is the only manufacturer to have any significant changes done to their 450cc motocross machine. With over 15 updated engine components, over 10 chassis components, and a suspension valving makeover Yamaha wasn't resting on their 2019 450 Shootout success. If there was one 2020 450 motocross bike that I was anxious to ride, this bike right here takes the cake. I was anxious to feel the changes Yamaha made out on the track, but also nervous because quite frankly I didn't want them to screw up an already great machine. In this “11 Things” I will break down all of the “feels” that I experienced while riding the 2020 Yamaha YZ450F. If you want to know more about the exact changes Yamaha made to the YZ450F, click here: https://www.keeferinctesting.com/latest-news-1/2019/6/4/yamaha-announces-full-lineup-of-2020nbspmotocross-bikes. 

Engine: So what exactly are you getting with the 2020 Yamaha YZ450F engine? Compared to the 2019 you’re getting a more connected rear wheel feel out of corners and more RPM response. I don’t feel like you're necessarily getting more bottom end pulling power, but the initial crack of the throttle is improved (almost too much, but more on that in the ECU portion) right when you get ready to stab that throttle (anywhere in the RPM range). Where I felt most of the improvements were through mid range-top end pulling power. The difference in “meat” through the mid-range once out of corners is impressive. We talk about third gear a lot in these tests and how important that gear is to the rider. If third gear is not useable in corners, it’s tough to ride smooth and forces the rider to be more active on the bike, which could result in getting more tired more quickly. The Yamaha has more mid-range pulling power, which allows you to use third gear through corners even easier in 2020. Usually you will have to fan the clutch a little to get the engine to recover and get back into the upper RPM range, but with the 2020 YZ450F you can just roll on the throttle and it will start pulling you down the track immediately. Top end pulls farther in second and third gears for 2020 and will not sign off as much as the 2019 YZ450F does. Even though a 450 shouldn't be revved out, let’s be real, sometimes we are lazy and DO NOT have perfect riding technique, so it’s nice to leave it in second gear and use that gear all the way to the next corner. It happens right? This new engine character helps you do that better without sounding like Justin Barcia at Southwick. In a nutshell the 2020 engine in fact has more power with most of it being more controlled to the rear wheel. 

Engine Free Feeling: The improvements that the Yamaha made in this category warranted its own category. I mentioned to the R&D guys at Yamaha how much free-er second gear felt as the 2020 YZ450F didn't have near as much engine braking as the 2019 did. With the previous 2019 engine, the engine braking was apparent on grabby/heavy dirt, but with the 2020 engine refinements, second gear feels less tight and puts less force on the front wheel off-throttle. This helps the suspension settle coming into corners and that improvement alone helps the 2020 YZ450F corner better/more efficiently.

Chassis: The 2020 YZ450F feels stiffer around the track. However don’t get scared off by the word “stiff”. It’s not rigid by any means, but just has a stiffer feel and not a wallowy sensation. Let’s go over this a little…The chassis is softer near the front of the machine and on the downtubes. The engine cradle tube thickness has been beefed up for increased rigidity as well as an engine mount material/shape change to help get this year’s YZ450F more planted. Now I am not going to sit here and tell you that this bike is a cornering dream and the changes that Yamaha made make this bike a class leading carver, but what it did gain is cornering stability as well as predictability through those corners. Gone is the hinged feeling near the rear of the bike when leaning under throttle through sweepers. The new Yamaha feels more planted under throttle while leaning through fast rougher corners (AKA sweepers). Straight line stability is still intact from 2019, but now has a slightly lighter initial lean in coming into tight corners. I didn't experience any added mid corner front end traction with the 2020 (maybe because of the MX33 front tire), but corner exits are improved as the 2020 YZ450F stayed leaned over easier at the end of corners. I do feel when the track gets rough the 2020 Yamaha is easier to push your limits, but just like with any performance gains you will lose a little comfort if riding around at 80% of your ability compared to the 2019. This new chassis will reward a rider that pushes harder and wants to go faster when the track gets rougher. Think GH @ 4:30.   

Suspension: The stiffer setting that Yamaha went to amazingly still has more comfort than any other suspension out there for 2020. I mean I guess it shouldn't be a shock, but I am wired to think if I go stiffer, my comfort sensation on the track might go down. For 2020, the comfort that you've grown accustomed to with the KYB SSS/Yamaha suspension is still there! Even though both ends have more hold up and less pitching I still ended up going stiffer on my settings. I felt like under throttle out of corners the rear of the bike (shock) was too low and I was getting a harsh mid stroke feel. Going in one click stiffer on the low speed compression as well as in (stiffer) on the high speed compression a quarter turn will help with hold up. I also wanted to calm the rear of the bike down on braking bumps so I made a huge change to the rebound just to see how the YZ450F took it and to my surprise it really liked a slower shock setting, so don’t be scared to go as much as three clicks in (slower) on the rebound. Again, for 2020, Yamaha’s goal was to increase performance as well as comfort and they somehow weaved both seamlessly together for a no fuss suspension spec that I think will please a wide range of riders.   

Brakes: Remember the top 5 mods to the 2019 YZ450F article? One of those mods was installing a Brembo front brake system on the Yamaha. Just FYI, for 2020, I don’t think I will be going that direction. Yamaha went with a new caliper with an increased piston size, a more rigid caliper body, a larger surface area on the brake pads with a higher friction material, as well as a front disc that also has 16% more surface area. The new Nissin front brake is not as strong as a Brembo, but it’s much more powerful than the 2019 system by far. The somewhat mushy front brake lever feel is now gone and now you will be getting more power at the lever. I didn't have to pull the front brake lever in nearly as far as the 2019 lever, so make sure to prepare yourself before grabbing a finger full. On more than one occasion I grabbed too much lever and almost washed the front end out because it can be a little touchier than last year’s front brake. If you feel like it may be too touchy simply adjust it in towards the throttle and this helps tremendously. It’s nice to have a strong front brake to the Yamaha as it makes charging into corners that much easier. I also approve of the new 240mm rear disc size (from 245mm in 2019) for 2020. Kawasaki has a 250mm rear disc, but it’s so grabby that your braking points coming into corners gets all screwed up. No one needs 250mm of rear disc. Bigger is not ALWAYS better and in this case the smaller diameter rear disc is easier to modulate your braking. 

Rider Triangle: Simply put, I don’t like the changes Yamaha made to the 2020 handlebar position. I do like the 5mm lower mounts (2017 mount height), but the 16.5mm forward position in 2020 is just too much for my 6’0 frame. Yamaha wanted to get the rider to more forward on the bike for 2020 and although they achieved that, my riding position/technique suffered. I had more leverage on the bike when I was in the 2019 position and could feel the front tire more when leaning. With the 2020 position I couldn't get enough leverage down on the front end to push the front end down when I needed to. The 2020 position bent my elbows too much when sitting and caused my arms to be less relaxed, which forced me to have the wrong grip with my hands on the bars. Putting the mounts back to the original rear hole/forward mount position let me corner better and gain more control over the Yamaha. I will say when standing the 2020 setting of the forward hole/rear facing mount was more comfortable because it put my upper body in more relaxed position. Find out what works best for you and what area of the track is most important to your technique (for you to be the most comfortable and stick with that setting). 

20mm Taller Seat: Matthes and I tried an optional 20mm taller seat and I actually liked it. I am usually not a taller seat kind of guy, but I liked that there wasn't as much of a pocket as the stock foam shape. With the 20mm taller seat you obviously sit more on top of the YZ450F instead of inside it and to me that helped with the transition from sitting to standing. I think of David Vuillemin every time I seat bounce a jump and it pisses me off. In that case I might invest in one of these suckers to try out, so he stops yelling at me inside of my head while riding. Yamaha Accessories Division will be offering this optional seat to purchase. 

ECU Settings/Engine Maps: The new on-the-fly handlebar mounted map button on the 2020 YZ450F is a welcome addition. I thought the added RPM response down low of the stock/standard map was too touchy for me through corners. I liked the “stock” map for longer/faster/softer tracks, but for everything else I used the TP 3.0 map, Keefer 1, and Exciting Power Character (all attached) maps the most. The TP 3.0 builds more RPM’s a little smoother/slower, but is super connected and the most easiest to ride. The “Keefer 1” map has a little more RPM hit initially, but still uses that smoothness of the TP 3.0 pulling out of corners. Finally, the “Exciting Power Character” uses that smooth roll on of the TP 3.0 down low, but has more RPM excitement through the mid range power. I thought the 2020 YZ450F’s chassis performed the best with the TP 3.0 as it didn't upset the YZ450F chassis as much rolling through mid corner. Try these and let us know what you think! 

Dunlop MX33 Tires: I immediately went home and put one of my trusty Dunlop MX3S front tires on this bike to see if it improves cornering! WOW! Even thought Dunlop doesn't make this front tire now, I still feel like the 3S helps the Yamaha’s initial lean and turn in. The 3S makes the Yamaha easier to cut underneath a blown out rut and has a more comfortable carcass feel on bumps. The 33 front tire is better than the 3S later in the corner, but to me I really need that initial lean in feel to help predict my corner. If you’re a front end steering rider you may not like this front tire feel as it may feel vague/pushy, but don’t blame it on the YZ450F yet. Scour the earth for a Dunlop MX3S (there still out there somewhere) or try a Pirelli MX32 if you want some better lean in angle traction. 

Setting Up In The Air While Starting A Lean Angle: I found that one area that the YZ450F is weak is when you’re setting up in the air, to get on the throttle to start a lean, the YZ450F feels heavy/vague once the suspension loads/unloads. Unlike a KTM or Husqvarna where they feel planted when landing off a jump while leaning, under that lean angle the Yamaha takes longer to regain a full traction/planted feel. I am able to continue my lean angle that I started in the air, land that way, and get on the gas immediately with the KTM/Husqvarna. This is something that may not be felt by most of you without riding other bikes back to back, but it’s something that I noticed almost immediately when riding the same track with a few different bikes. 

2019 VS. 2020: I feel that going from a 2019 to a 2020 YZ450F is a more noticeable difference for the better than going from a 2017-2018 YZ450F. Most of the changes that Yamaha made to the 2020 YZ450F are for the better and will help a wide range of riders become faster as well as give the rider a more predictable feel around the track. I always get the question “Is it worth it for me to get a 2020 over a 2019”? My answer to you is “yes, it’s worth it this year”. If the difference is a couple grand and you’re able to get the wife to sign off on it, then go with the 2020 because there is a lot of noticeable positive differences that will increase your fun factor when moto'ing. 

To get more settings info and more in depth talk about the 2020 Yamaha YZ450F listen to the Rocky Mountain ATV/MC Keefer Tested Podcast and/or Pulp MX’s podcast with Ryan Lockhart. 

2020 Honda CRF450R First Impression

Going with the theme of “refinements” like a lot of manufactures are doing for 2020, Honda introduced the new CR450R at Fox Raceway in Pala, California last week. Minimal changes were made to Honda’s flagship motorcycle, but we had a chance to put those refinements to the test over the course of a few days and here is what are initial impressions were of the latest CR450R. We will be getting you guys some recommended base settings along with more tips and tricks in a couple weeks as we put more time on the red machine. If you want to learn more about the 2020 Honda CRF450R, listen to the RMATVMC Keefer Tested Podcast and actually hear my thoughts, instead of just reading them. 

New For 2020: 

The battery position is lowered by 28mm to move the center of gravity downward in order to try and improve chassis balance/handing. 

All new Honda Selectable Torque Control with three levels of intervention; three mode HSTV monitors rpm spikes and responds by temporarily reducing torque to aid rear traction; a separate switch accesses revised mapping for riding modes for simple tuning depending on rider preference or course conditions. 

Revised internal fork and shock settings to help with chassis balance while trying to combat pitching (off-throttle). 

New rear brake pad material for improved performance, increased durability; elimination of lower rear brake rotor guard improves heat dissipation reducing unsprung weight. 

On Track Feeling:

The engine on the 2020 CRF450R rolls on slightly smoother than the 2019 in map one, but still has plenty of excitement coming out of corners. The 2020 still could use a more linear pull down low for novice type riders though. If you lack technique through corners, do yourself a favor and ride the Honda CRF450R in map 2. Trust me, you will be much happier. You will find a noticeable difference in the CRF450R’s mid to top end power pulling power (with the 2020 mapping). It is slightly longer than 2019 and can let you become a little lazier with your shifts. The 2020 CRF450R can be left in second and third gears longer than the 2019, but just know that second gear is strong and can tire you out quicker. The benefit of having all that bottom end power is you’ll be able to ride the CRF450R in third gear through corners, which can lighten up the workload a little in longer motos. If you’re a heavier or gnarly dude head on over to map 3 and enjoy the harder hit than you had in map 1. Last year’s engine character was snappy and fun, but lacked some control down low, but for 2020 the red bike has a little more control which helps the chassis balance. Don’t worry, on paper, it’s the fastest bike (peak horsepower) in class.  

The 2019 CRF450R chassis still needed some help because of its aggressive and stiff nature. The 2020 ECU mapping has calmed down the CRF450R’s chassis slightly, which is great thing for you future buyers! You can have the fastest engine in the world, but it isn’t going to mean anything if the bike or rider can’t handle it right? The rigidity balance on the track hasn't changed much for 2020, but the slightly smoother engine character doesn't bind up the chassis as much under heavy throttle. The 2019 felt harsh when the track got hard packed and choppy, but the 2020 frame feels like it flexes slightly better because the engine delivery is chilled down a bit. With these ECU changes Honda made in 2020 the chassis feels like it sticks to the ground a little better on throttle while accelerating down the straights. 28mm doesn't seem like a lot, but with the battery box lower this does translate on the track while entering corners. All three riders that we had testing the 2020 bike against the 2019 noticed the “tip in” was easier on the 2020. Your initial lean doesn't feel as heavy on the new Honda and the bike falls into corners even better than the 2019 did. The CRF450R is already one of the best cornering bikes and with this change for 2020, it helps this even more. 

The CRF450R’s suspension holds up higher in the stroke for 2020 and gives the rider decent comfort on the small chop, but don't expect it to be better than the KYB suspension that comes on the Yamaha. All three riders that tested this bike (165, 170, 175 pounds) went stiffer on the fork to help the Honda from diving under heavy braking. Even with the fork changes Showa made for 2020 we still wanted some more hold up. If we rode the CRF450R around at 80%, the fork had enough comfort and hold up, but when pushing the bike hard the fork needed some added performance. Once going a little stiffer (compression) and slower (rebound) the front end felt calmer and allowed for a more aggressive riding style. The shock has a ton of comfort initially, especially coming out of rough/choppy corners, but on heavy g-outs or steep jump faces the end of the stroke is empty (soft) feeling. Going stiffer on high speed compression a quarter turn will help hold up and prevent you from going to the chiropractor later that afternoon. We ended up going with a 105mm of sag as that pleased all three riders and left them with the best balance on and off throttle.  

Does The Honda Selectable Torque Control Work? Yes, that’s right you have another three modes to play with on the Renthal Fatbars now! These three modes actually can come in handy in slippery conditions and can even further customize the engine delivery for less experienced riders. Mode one is for track conditions that still have some moisture and traction, but can get slippery on exits of corners, mode two is for conditions that are slippery in most areas of the track, and mode three is for a track that is hard packed or very slippery in all areas. We messed around with all three modes and a couple of our riders came away pleasantly surprised. The track we were riding wasn't extremely slick at the end of the day, but having the ECU in map one along with the HSTC on in mode one; the CRF450R felt more stable and planted to the ground than it did at the beginning of the day, when the track was semi fresh. Two out of the three test riders thought it was an advantage and our fast pro moto guy (Colton Aeck) didn't think it did much for him. This is something that we will test more and will get back to you with in a future RMATVMC Keefer Tested Podcast. 

Something about hopping on a Honda and feeling comfortable right away is almost always unanimous with every rider that gets on one. I even overheard other media outlet testers saying that the Honda has the best cockpit (rider triangle) out of any other bike available today. Honda did a great job with the seat to peg to handlebar measurements. Other manufacturers take note please. 

As usual I will be completely honest… I didn't notice any performance enhancements in rear braking or the “unsprung weight” Honda tells us they saved weight with the removal of the rear plastic disc cover. Plastic cover be damned! We no longer need you! Boom! Marketing team unite! Unsprung weight!  

I get a lot of emails asking these two questions so I will save myself a few of them by answering them right here… -KK

Is it worth getting a 2020 Honda CRF450R (compared to a 2019)? If it is a matter of saving you a couple thousand dollars? No, get yourself a fresh 2019 and use that money you saved to get your ECU re-mapped or better yet get a Vortex ignition done up by Chad at XPR Motorsports and thank me later. If it’s a matter of a thousand dollars or less than get the 2020 because the mapping alone is worth that much.  

Keefer…Is the 2020 CRF450RWE worth the extra money compared to the 2020 CRF450R? I don’t know yet… Give me another month, so I can ride the “WE”. Chill down… 

Come on back to keeferinctesting.com and pulpmx.com in a few weeks for a full breakdown of settings, tips, and tricks to make this 2020 Honda CRF450R even better. 

2020 KTM 250 SX-F First Impression

Coming off the heels of our Husqvarna test last week, KTM came in this week and delivered our  2020 250 SX-F for us to shake down at the infamous Glen Helen Raceway. Glen Helen is one of the most used motocross facilities in California for most manufacturers to test their production machines before they arrive to dealerships. I managed to gather up 10 important things about the 2020 KTM 250 SX-F that I feel would benefit a possible future consumer and here they are. 

Engine Feeling: The KTM 250 SX-F is fast! It doesn't feel fast on low rpm, but is it’s so easy to roll on the throttle early in corners that it makes you a better rider without you even realizing. The 2020 KTM 250 SX-F has more bottom end power than the FC250, but both bikes are similar from mid to top end. The 250 SX-F top end is so impressive because it can rev out incredibly well in third gear and will surprise you on how far you can let this machine eat. The controlled engine character of the KTM 250 SX-F doesn't have the excitement of the YZ250F, but to me I can appreciate this controlled character as the rear of the KTM feels more connected than the YZ250F under throttle. You will not be able to use third gear in corners on the KTM like you can with the YZ250F, but having a second gear as long as the 250 SX-F doesn't make me really want to use third gear because second gear is so useable. If you are a third gear type of rider through corners the KTM does have a decent amount of recovery time, but going to a 14/52 gearing ratio (14/51 is stock) will help your cause even more. 

Suspension: The new 2020 WP XACT settings are firmer than the Husqvarna, but to me that is a good thing. The standard air pressure on the AER fork is 10.3 bars, but we ended up with a 10.6 bar base setting for both riders (170 and 185 pounds). The added air helped the fork hold up on de-cel yet still had a decent amount of comfort on the bigger braking bumps that Glen Helen provided. The WP KTM 250 SX-F shock has more damping feel than that of the FC250 on the end of its stroke, but doesn't have the comfort on acceleration bumps like the FC250 does. We stiffened up the low speed compression a couple clicks and that helped prevent the KTM from squatting too much under a heavy throttle hand. If you still feel like it’s soft at the end of the stroke on jump landings or g-outs try going in a quarter turn in on the high speed compression. Overall, I don’t think the 2020 WP suspension spec is that much better than the 2019 setting, but it was comfortable enough for me to push it hard around Glen Helen when the track got rough in the afternoon. Basically I wasn't dreading my time there in the afternoon and that to me is a win.   

Chassis: The KTM 250 SX-F feels light through corners and lacks a little front end traction once you add some air to the fork. The positivity of the front tire on lean angle will decrease when going up in air pressure on the AER fork, but this is only felt on corner exit. Initial lean and mid corner the KTM gives the rider a lot of confidence and doesn't require a lot of input by the rider to make an inside line. Straight line stability is also predictable as the KTM will react the same way every lap when hitting bumps at speed. The steel frame has a very connected/positive feel around the track. 

Transmission: We did have an odd feeling when shifting from second to third, under load, on the KTM. When coming out of a corner, under throttle, it was very hard to find third gear. I had to  let off the throttle and pull the clutch all the way in to make the shift. This was odd because our FC250 had zero trouble with shifting when we tested it last week. The Pankl transmissions are usually the best in the business, so having this issue could be just do to not having enough break in time on a new bike. Our KTM 250 SX-F test bike had under two engine hours on it, so maybe it wasn’t fully broken in, but we wanted to mention this. We will get back to you once we get over the 5-6 hour mark to see if this improves.  

Engine Braking: We mentioned in our FC250 test that the Husqvarna had a lot of second gear engine braking. With the KTM 250 SX-F this wasn't as apparent, which makes this transmission talk even more interesting. The KTM has a very free feeling engine character in both maps and this makes the whole bike feel very playful. 

Engine Maps: On the KTM 250 SX-F, Map 2 was a great all around map for both testers we used. Map 2 pulls strong through the mid range and gave us more “meat” feeling up the hills. Map 2 didn’t come on stronger than map 1, but gave the KTM more rpm response and mid range recovery time, while pulling harder up top. Map 1 was a little stronger off bottom end, but was too short for our testers taste. The TC button simply doesn't get enough play with test riders, but the TC button does work well for conditions that are slick, hard pack, and/or slippery. Find the preferred map you like to ride in and use the “TC” button when the track turns for the worse. I tried Map 2 with the TC in the afternoon and it does actually help the rear of the bike stay straighter upon accelerating. 

Rider Triangle: Gone are the days where the KTM feels foreign or weird when coning off Japanese machines. The cockpit fits a wide range of riders and never feels too cramped even with the low bar bend (unless you’re 6’2 and up). I do however despise the stiff natured stock Neken handlebar on slap down landings or on square edge. To get less vibration and more flex, get yourself a Pro Taper handlebar ASAP. If you like the stock bend, order yourself a Husqvarna stock bend and you will be in the spec range of the stock Neken handlebar. The KTM seat is also much friendlier than the Husqvarna seat! Thank god! 

Airbox Cover: For 2020 KTM gives the consumer an extra left side cover (upon purchase of vehicle) with holes to help the 250 SX-F breathe better. We tested both covers (with holes and without) and while the cover with holes installed made the KTM pull better up on top end, the cover without holes gave the 250 SX-F better bottom to mid range rpm response. If you’re riding wet conditions, it’s nice to know that you have a cover that will not allow water inside your airbox. 

Dunlop MX3S Tires: Thank you KTM for not falling for the Dunlop MX33 front tire trap just yet. The MX3S tires come standard for 2020 again on the KTM and we hope Dunlop allows manufacturers to run the 3S tires for 2021. Orrrrr. Design another soft to intermediate tire that is as good on lean angle as the 3S is. 

Husqvarna Or KTM?: I get this question a lot! If it was me I would prefer the KTM 250 SX-F because of the free feeling engine and the stiffer suspension spec. I do like Husqvarna’s rear end compliancy and handlebars more, but the engine rules the roost in the 250F class and to me the KTM engine is a little better. Yes, I am splitting hairs, but I try not to waffle on your questions! 

If you have any questions about this test or any others, you already know that we are here for you. We try to make your purchase the correct purchase. Email Kris@keeferinctesting.com for any burning q’s.

2020 Husqvarna FC250/350 First Impression

Husqvarna brought us their 2020 FC250 and FC350 to us this week, so in standard Keefer Inc. fashion we wanted to break down the ten most important aspects of both bikes to you. For 2020 minimal changes were made to the FC250/350 and those changes Husqvarna made were to the suspension valving, airbox/side panel (drilled holes), gearing change (FC350 got a 14/51 ratio), and of course BNG’s. We will be riding both of these machines more throughout the weeks so stay glued to pulpmx.com and keeferinctesting.com for settings info. 

Engine Feel: Does the FC 350 have the torque of a 450? Does the FC250 have the torque of a Yamaha YZ250F? No, they don’t! They are smoother than those other bikes off the bottom end and have a more linear roll on power delivery. Is this a bad thing? No, it isn’t. It just means you’re getting a more controlled engine character with a wide power curve. 350cc’s of power is usually plenty of power for most consumers, but if you’re looking for more torque and want to be lazy, the 450 will be better. The FC250 and FC350 both have a similar engine character where they are sneaky fast. Sneaky because they build rpm’s calculated and smooth then all of a sudden you find yourself over jumping a certain section of jumps. This takes a few laps to dial in, but once you do, you will be able to appreciate how much easier this type of engine character is to ride. Both engines make a lot of rear wheel traction so don’t expect a ton of hit anywhere through the powerband on these models, so the “Tony Alessi Water Truck Lane Test” may not be the best guide on how good these engines really are on the track. Both machines have tons of over-rev, so if you’re into short shifting, these bikes may not be the best for you. They both liked to be revved! The Husqvarna’s are not torque monsters like the Yamaha’s, but if you want to let each gear eat, both machines will allow you to ride that way. You would think without tons of torque feel, the FC250/350 wouldn't have a lot of recovery when in the wrong gear through corners. To my surprise both engines have superb recovery time and will get you back down on the track, in the meat of the power, in no time. 

Weight Feeling (Chassis): The 2020 Husqvarna FC250 weighs in at 218 pounds and FC350 weighs 219 pounds dry. That is only one pound! The 250/350 feels lighter in corners than they do in the air, which is very odd to me. However the good news is that you are able to cut down from blown out berms or ruts very easily on either bike. The FC250 feels more like 5 -7 pounds lighter than the FC350 on the track, do to it’s more free-feeling engine character. The FC250 has a very free feeling engine (in each gear) and the inertia of the FC250’s engine is much less, so that makes it feel more than a pound lighter on the track. Compared to a FC450, the FC350 feels slightly lighter through corners and on sudden direction changes, but to me there is more of a weight feeling gap between the 250/350.  

Straight Line Stability: As light as both machines feel on the track the FC250/350 stay pretty damn straight (on-throttle). When accelerating out of long sweepers the rear end stays more connected to the ground than previous year models and track straight. The stiffer frame helps this rear wheel contact and is very noticeable under heavy load. There is nothing unexpected that happens when pushing the limits on these machine. If you hit the same bump 20 times, both machines will react the same each of those 20 times. 

Suspension: Both sets of 2020 WP suspension on the FC250/350 are on the soft side. All three test riders (165, 170, and 185 pounds) thought the fork on each model needed more air. On the FC250 we went up to 10.7 (10.6 stock) bars and on the FC350 we went up to 10.8 bars (10.4 stock) and that helped both bikes from diving on de-cel. Both shocks are empty (soft) on the end stroke (g-outs, jump faces) so adding some high sped compression (1/8-1/4 turn) helps hold up the rear end in those areas of the track. After changing the fork and shock, both bikes will ride higher in the stroke and actually have more comfort on de-cel. All riders thought the suspension (after this change) was more balanced and all riders could push harder into bumps with more aggression. We will be getting you specific clicker settings in a future article coming in a couple weeks right here on pulpmx.com and keeferinctesting.com. 

Engine Braking (FC350): I noticed that in second gear the FC350 had quite a bit of engine braking, but in third gear the engine braking was significantly less. Usually with other bikes there isn't the much engine braking change from second to third gear, so to combat this I tried to downshift late into corners, so that off-throttle pitching sensation wasn't as apparent. I will be testing some gearing on the FC350 to see if I can help this sensation very soon. The FC250 didn't have nearly as much engine braking as the 350 and had more of a free feeling second gear de-cel (freewheel) coming into corners. 

Engine Maps: On the FC250, Map 2 was a great all around map for all three testers we used. Map 2 didn't come on stronger than map 1, but gave the Husqvarna more rpm response and mid range recovery time, while pulling harder up top. Map 1 was a little stronger off bottom end, but was too short for our testers taste. The FC350 had slightly less engine braking in map 1, but just didn't have that excitement that map 2 had through the mid range so we chose to ride in map 2 and deal with the engine braking in second gear. In map 2 we could shift to third gear sooner than in map 1, so that was also a positive for the track we tested at. The TC button simply doesn't get enough play with test riders, but the TC button does work well for conditions that are slick, hard pack, and/or slippery. Find the preferred map you like to ride in and use the “TC” button when the track turns for the worse.   

Seat: Do yourself a favor and get a GUTS seat cover and take the violent stock seat off ASAP. If you plan on doing longer motos, save your butt and get a friendlier gripper seat. 

Rider Triangle: I like the Pro Taper EVO bars the come on the Husqvarna, but when standing they are a little low in height for me. Going to a Pro Taper “SX RACE” bend keeps me from being hunched over when standing around corners. If you do like the low/flat profile of the stock bar, try cutting it down to 803mm for better corner entry as the stock length is a little too long. 

Which Bike Is More Fun To Ride: I get this question a lot so I might as well answer it. I really like riding the FC250 a little more than the FC350. Why? To me it has to do with how the bike handles. To me the FC250 is much more playful in the corners and feels lighter around the track. You have to ride both bikes aggressively and unlike a 450, you just can’t lug either bike around or be lazy, so I prefer a bike that will be lighter feeling around the track. Now don’t get me wrong… The FC350 is fun to ride, but for me I would take a 450 over a 350 because they both feel similar in weight around the track, so why not have more power at my throttle hand. The FC450 is also very linear off the bottom end and not intimating like some other 450 power plants. Now I know that not everyone is like me, so I can see why a FC350 could be less intimidating to a vet or novice type rider, which is why one of my vet testers wants one now! 

Clutch/Brakes: The Brembo brakes that come on the Husqvarna FC250/350 are one of the strongest brake systems available. If you’re coming off of a Nissin equipped machine, getting used to the Brembo system may take some time for you to get your braking points down. The Brembo’s are strong and powerful so not a lot of pressure is needed by your finger at the lever. The Magura clutch is a little more on/off feeling than that of the more linear Brembo hydraulic system on the KTM, but either will not fade on you during a long moto. The Magura clutch has a smaller window of engagement that will take some time for riders that are used to a cable clutch, but once you find that engagement point, that foreign feeling will disappear from your mind within a few times out on the track.  

A Pro’s Perspective: Colton Aeck National #526

FC250 On The Track:

Engine: The FC 250 has never been a torque monster. This engine does its best work in the mid-top end of the rev range. Riding mainly 450s for the past few years, getting on a 250f took some adjustment, but once I learned to rev it again, I really enjoyed this engine.

The FC 250 comes with 2 map settings that you can change on the fly with a switch on the handlebar. Map 1 is more aggressive from bottom-mid range, but leaves me wanting a bit more on top. Map 2 has less bottom end hit/ throttle response with a more aggressive mid-top end. I chose map 2 because I could leave the bike in a lower gear for the corners, but it would rev to the moon before needing to shift.
Overall this engine is a lot of fun!

Chassis: I'm a big fan of the steel frames on the Huskys and KTMs. The steel frame gives me more comfort and bump absorption and just an overall more connected feeling to the ground. The FC 250 is light and nimble in the air and corners like its on rails. No complaints in the chassis department.

Suspension: The FC 250 received a softer setting for suspension in 2020. As with most stock bikes the suspension was soft for me with initial settings. I ended up adding air to the fork and stiffening high speed compression on the shock. This balanced out the bike front and rear, gave me less of a "pitching" sensation under braking and allowed me to push harder through jump faces and big breaking bumps. Overall the suspension has very good comfort and with a couple adjustments I was able to get a good amount of performance as well.

FC 350 On The Track:

Engine: Wednesday was my first time ever riding a 350, I have to say it was a lot of fun! The engine is super easy to ride. As you might expect, it's a perfect mix between 250 and 450. Off the bottom it has a really strong, yet smooth pull similar to a 450 and it revs high and pulls great on top, a lot like a 250. For me it was like having the best of both worlds,it was a lot of fun!

Chassis: Similar to my comments of the 250, I really enjoy the steel frame. It provides a super comfortable ride and leaves you feeling very planted to the ground. The FC 350 corners well, yet is still stable at high speeds. It's fun and easy to ride.

Suspension: The suspension on the 350 was a lot closer for me in stock form. The fork held up higher in its stroke and gave me more confidence to charge through rough sections. I still ended up increasing air pressure in the fork and also added a couple clicks of compression front and rear. This added a bit more performance and was a setting I was really happy with. It wouldn't take much tuning to make this a setting I could race with.

250 350 Comparison:

So, the big question... Would I choose the 250 or 350?

As a professional racer, the 350 doesn't really have a place. Lining up at a national or supercross and being at a 100cc disadvantage doesn't make much sense. That being said, most of you readers aren't lining up a your local supercross.

For the average guy who just rides for fun and maybe races from time to time, I think the 350 is the perfect bike. You have the fun factor of a 250, with the low end grunt/ easy to ride power of a 450. The place I really enjoyed the 350 was in the corners. If I made a mistake in a turn, the 350 had enough power to pull me out of it and still make the next jump or obstacle. I didn't have that luxury on the 250, a mistake in a turn would be much more costly.

Again, for your average consumer I think the 350 is an awesome, super fun bike. If I wasn't racing professionally, it would be in the running of bikes I would personally buy.

2020 Husqvarna FC450 Baseline/Start Up Settings

The 2020 Husqvarna FC450 has minimal changes to it from the 2019 FC450 and 2019.5 Rockstar Edition, so we took what we have learned with those bikes and tinkered with the 2020 version in order to get you the best baseline setting we could for a wide range of riders. After numerous hours and tests later we have come up with these suggestions as the best baseline setting so you can just go out and ride. 

 Suspension: The factory fork and shock settings are much softer on the 2020 FC450 so we did go a little bit stiffer on air pressure and softer on compression settings, but have found improved results in comfort, not just performance. All three test riders (155, 170, 195 pounds) that tried this setting agreed that the bike/chassis was calmer on acceleration and de-cel bumps. This setting will give the Husqvarna better hold up as well as help the front end from feeling stinkbug coming into corners. This setting was also well perceived on the 2019.5 Rockstar Edition as well. Our 195 pound rider preferred a 48N/m shock spring with the recommended shock settings below.

Fork:

Air Pressure: 10.9 bar

Compression: 14-15 out

Rebound: 11 out

Fork Height: 5mm

Shock:

L/S Compression: 11-12 clicks out

H/S Compression: 1-3/4 turns out

Rebound: 12 clicks out

Sag: 104-105mm

Shock: (195 pounds and over)

Spring Rate: 48N/m

L/S Compression: 14 clicks out

H/S Compression: 2 turns out

Rebound: 13 clicks out

Sag: 104-105mm

Rider Triangle: The standard Pro Taper handlebar that comes on the FC450 is low and flat, but fits the Husqvarna’s cockpit very well for most. I did want more height from my bar when I stood up, so I went with a Pro Taper Fuzion SX Race bend and this helped me get over the front of the bike more when standing. The SX Race bar worked well for riders from 5’8 to 6’1. The SX Race bend comes in a crossbar or crossbar-less style and is 800mm width, 87mm height, 54.5 rise, and 54mm sweep. If you’re looking for a better stand up feel from your Husqvarna look for handlebar close to this measurement. If you do like the stock bar try cutting the bar down to 803mm instead of the longer/standard 811mm. This will help you corner.   

ECU Settings: The 2020 FC450 has a much better map 2 ECU setting and doesn't need a re-flash like the 2019 or 2019.5 Husqvarna did. Map 2 is my preferred standard map in most conditions as it comes on a little sooner and pulls slightly harder than map 1. However, if you want to get more power, I recently tested a Vortex ignition mapped by Chad at XPR Motorsports on the 2020 FC450 with great results. If you’re looking for increased bottom to mid range while keeping that smooth/linear engine character Chad over at XPR has a couple maps that you could really benefit from. If you already have a Vortex you can simply send Chad your ECU and he can send you a “Keefer” map that we have tested on the 2020 FC450. A Vortex ignition isn't needed in all bikes but he Husqvarna really benefits from this modification.

Gearing: The 2020 FC450 comes with a 13/49 gearing ratio. This gearing should be just fine for most tracks, but if you want a little more mid range engine recovery and free-er feeling shock on acceleration, a 14/52 gearing ratio works well. The 14/52 gearing will require a new chain length and I usually go with this gearing when riding tracks similar to Glen Helen (aka faster choppy tracks) to settle the rear end under load.   

Chassis: Aftermarket engine mounts are all the rage right now and some of you may not have the money to spend on a pair of engine mounts for your Husqvarna. I will say that I don’t feel like the Husqvarna’s chassis is stiff, but I have heard from other lighter riders that it can be at times, so I decided to play around with torque specs on the engine mounts and stumbled across this. If you’re experiencing a stiff feeling chassis sensation and want the Husqvarna to settle while leaning (under throttle), there is an inexpensive way to achieve some extra front end traction. You can remove the left side upper engine mount bolt (upper right bolt only, as shown) and torque all other top engine mount bolts to 30Nm. This band aid will give you a more planted sensation when on throttle while leaning the FC450 through sweepers and fast straights. You will have to make sure that all engine mount bolts have blue Loctite to ensure they do not back out. You can also try torquing your swingarm pivot bolt to 95 Nm (instead of 100Nm) to help rear end traction out of corners. The downside to doing these mods is that the chassis will flex a little more, so if you’re riding deep tilled tracks this modification may be too “flexy” for some (especially when chopping throttle).  

Rear Axle Block Kit: Going to a Works Connection axle block kit or Ride Engineering axle block kit will get rid of the fixed left axle block on the stock Husqvarna’s axle. This will help the rear end to move more freely under throttle and improve the shock’s comfort on acceleration chop. Rear wheel placement isn’t as crucial on the Husqvarna as it is on some other 450’s we have tested so if your rear wheel placement is somewhere in the middle of the axle block marks, that will be sufficient for these recommended suspension settings. 

Airbox/Side Panel Modification: If you’re a 2019 or 2019.5 Husqvarna owner do yourself a favor and get the 2020 left side airbag cover as that will get you snappier throttle response at low rpm’s. 

2020 Yamaha YZ250F On-Track Facts And Figures

Yamaha didn't change the YZ250F very much for 2020, but we did manage to get some added on-track information on Yamaha’s latest YZ250F and get you some feedback just in case you missed it in 2019. Below are some notes that should be taken into consideration about the changes Yamaha’s did make in 2019 and how the new 2020 YZ250F rides on the track. We will also lightly compare how the 2020 compares to the older 2018 model just in case you’re coming off of an older Yamaha YZ250F for comparison sakes.  

Also, just in case you missed the bold italics above, we say “very much” because some other media outlets are saying that NOTHING has changed with the 2020 YZ250F, but there is one small change and that may have been over looked. The filter element now has a rubber grommet to keep the element in place under the harmonics of the motorcycle while running. The 2019 filter element didn't seal that well, but with the updated grommet the 2020 seals much better. It’s not much, but it’s an important piece to a problem that the 2019 Yamaha had. 

2020 Filter Element

2019 Changes:

Yamaha kept the reward slanting engine design (for 2019 the engine is slanted forward 1 degree from the 2018) that already worked so well on the last model and made some changes to make it even better. Starting by adding electric start, Yamaha is the second Japanese manufacturer to have an e-start 250F motocross bike. The exhaust port shape was slightly modified so it transitions to the head pipe (which shape has also been changed to accommodate this) better and has increased the flow rate. Also in the head, Yamaha has increased the intake valve lift, and slightly changed the angle of the exhaust cam. The final changes to the new head are larger lifter buckets and slightly stiffer valve springs. Underneath the head, the piston crown has been increased, which has bumped the compression from 13.5:1 to 13.8:1.

 The throttle body on the 2019 changed from Keihin to Mikuni. It is 44mm and has a 12 hole injector. Also different on the throttle body is the cold start (choke) which now has to be pushed in to be activated and is deactivated by fully closing the throttle. Along with the engine changes and new fuel system, the ECU settings have been updated. The new dual electrode spark plug’s cap now has a finger holder keeping the cap firmly in place. The transmission side of the engine has also received key changes including a heavier duty clutch. What makes the clutch stronger is larger plate diameter, 6 clutch springs (one more than last year), and thicker steel plates (which in turn reduced the number of friction plates from 9 to 8). The transmission gears have also been updated and are using a high impact steel.

The new e-start is a compact, sits behind the cylinder, and drives the clutch basket directly. The 1.5 pound lithium battery sits under the rear of the seat and has a capacity of 2.4AH and 13.2volts. The amount of power the YZ 250F needs to generate has been reduced because of the addition of the battery which means there is less resistance on the stator/engine.

The frame on the 2019 has been majorly changed to make the bike feel more nimble on the track. The frame rails that go around the gas tank/air box are now straight where last year had more of an S shape. Other parts of the frame have been changed from forged pieces to extrusion aluminum, and the engine mounts have been changed from steel to aluminum. The material at the swingarm mount have been increased front to back and narrowed side to side, making the side of the frame flatter at the swing arm mount. The steering head has also been moved forward 6mm to help with stability.

In the past there have been comments about the seat height and width of the YZ 250F. Yamaha has changed that by making the seat slightly flatter, shorter, and narrower than last year’s model. Along with the seat, Yamaha has narrowed up the plastic where the rider’s knees contact the shrouds. The new shrouds have the air ducts integrated into them (same as 450) and the whole top part of the shroud no longer has to be removed to service the air filter. The air filter cover now only needs one Dzus fastener to be removed for access to the air filter which is no longer held in by a screw, instead it’s held in via rotating clips.

Yamaha tried to lighten the bike in 2019 up by using thinner, higher strength material for the handlebars, and also using lighter rims. To help with stability, they increased the surface area of the wheel collars where they contact the fork lugs and added more material to the rear collars. The KYB forks use new internals including a new piston, cylinder, mid speed valve, pressure piston, and stiffer spring rates (from 4.6N/mm to 4.7N/mm). The shock reservoir volume has been increased by 30cc and the coil spring now has less winds, is made of a thinner material (lighter), and the rate has changed from 54N/mm to 56N/mm.

On The Track With The 2020 YZ250F:

The 2020 YZ250F has great torque and pulling power down low, but doesn't quite have the top end pulling power like other bikes in its class. The YZ250F is so good at low rpm that it gives me the sensation that I want to ride a 250F full time. It’s that much fun! The Yamaha pulls hard out of corners and has a huge amount of bottom to mid range response that most will appreciate. There is enough meat coming out of corners that a wide range of riders as well as abilities can be left with the decision to leave it in second or third gear through corners. It’s a very vet rider friendly machine and gives the rider that excitement that we all look for in a bike. What is the downside? It does have more engine braking than the KX or CRF and I would like more top end pulling power through second and third gear. We worked on a different map to increase top end and also decrease engine braking. More on that below. 

 The firm feel of the 2020 chassis makes the bike feel planted and have a positive front end feeling through corners. Where the 2018 kind of felt lethargic/slow to react to the rider, the 2020 feels slimmer and more nimble (from the swingarm pivot forward) yet has a better straight line character on fast choppy tracks. The easiest way to describe the way the 2020 feels is that it has a fun cornering character with a confidence inspiring straight line feel. The 2020 YZ250F isn’t the leader of getting in and out of corners the quickest, but the planted feel in which it comes with is calming to any rider. The chassis still has a pitching (off throttle) sensation, but with a small change to the ECU, this pitching feel can diminish. The beauty is that if you want engine braking with a heavier front end feel, the Yamaha can give you that or if you want a lighter front end feel with a less heavier front end feel, simply going to the “Keefer Free Feeling Map” can give you that as well. Again, to me, this is a very well rounded chassis for a wide range of riders and abilities.  

 The 2020 KYB SSS fork is still the best fork out on the market. With the chassis changes Yamaha made in 2019, the KYB fork compliments those changes wonderfully. The fork does not dive as much on de-cel and stays up in the stroke more (especially with the KK map installed) than the 2018. The KYB fork does move in the stroke, but going 1-2 clicks slower on the rebound helped calm the front end down on g-outs or jump faces. Our lightest test rider liked he stock rebound setting on the fork, but if you’re slightly heavier going slower will be the better way to go. The shock likes to be set to around 104-105mm and it complimented all three riders that we used in this test. We set the baseline sag of 105mm to our middle weighted rider (170 pounds) and the other two riders (150 pounds and 195 pounds) thought the bike was balanced enough for them to push around the track. Traction to the rear wheel is apparent on the Yamaha when giving it the berries out of corners and it’s really difficult for the rear tire to step out coming out from a rut. On de-cel the rear of the 2020 Yamaha doesn’t have a vague light feel, which sometimes could leave you with that rear end “sliding out feel” and then that “oh shit” sensation like the 2018 version had. The rear end of the 2020 YZ250F feels heavier/planted (in a good way), which gave me the sensation of a more connected throttle to rear wheel feel (AKA, meaning a more planted/heavier feel).

 Stop with the Yamaha feels fat excuse. Every time I hear this I tell people “go measure your KTM and measure the Yamaha (at the shrouds) and get back to me”. Sitting on the 2020 YZ250F feels just fine because I feel more upright than “inside” the machine. The whole machine feels slimmer and flatter than the 2018, which to me will fit larger sized riders just fine. You will have to go with a stiffer foam after 10 hours or so, but that is an easy fix by calling Guts Racing. You can also go with the bar mount in the forward hole turned back if you need a little more cockpit room. I have tried this position and have come to like this rider triangle feel. The 2020 Yamaha YZ450F will come standard with this position, so I better get used to it.    

I really felt that the 2020 Yamaha YZ250F could benefit from a free-er engine feel on de-cel so I worked on a map to try and achieve this. This “Keefer Free Feeling” map below gives you less pitching on de-cel coming into the corners and also made the Yamaha feel lighter through mid-corner, which helped cornering as well as change of direction. I felt like I could give up a little amount of torque that the Yamaha has to achieve this and that is what you will find when going to this map. You will get slightly less torque, keep that great mid-range pull as well as slightly increase top end. If you want to also sacrifice a little torque feeling and increase the second and third gear pulling power (with the same amount of engine braking the stock map gives) go to the “Hard Hitting Map” Yamaha has pre-programmed on your Yamaha Power Tuner App. I use the “Hard Hitting” for my base map and the Free Feeling” map for my secondary map. 

Bridgestone X20’s come standard on the 2020 Yamaha YZ250F and although I didn't like them on the YZ450F when I tried them they work well on the YZ250F, especially on front tire lean angle. I like that you can initiate your lean early on the font tire of the X20 and it will give you a positive feeling underneath you. The rear tire isn't quite as good on lean angle, but still hooks up in a wide range of conditions. I will say that the X20 has a better carcass feel than that of the Dunlop MX33 tires. I will take a Bridgestone X20 front tire all day over a MX33.  

Stay tuned for a settings article over on keeferinctesting.com as well as pulpmx.com for the 2020 YZ250F as soon as we got more time on the bLU cRU machine.

2020 KX250 Versus 2019 YZ250F Comparison

By: Michael Allen

As the 250(F) class continues to be more competitive, it puts increased pressure on the manufacturers to make a solid platform for racers to start with. For their newest rendition of the KX250, Kawasaki was kind enough to invite us up to the legendary Castillo ranch for the first ride of the new bike. Being that the 250 is such a small four-stroke engine, it’s imperative that manufacturers squeeze every bit of power out of the tiny screamers and for 2020 Kawasaki went back to the drawing board. On top of changing many engine components, Kawasaki also focused on the chassis, suspension, and brakes to make the KX250 a contender for best in class. For this story we thought since you ask us “how does it compare to the YZ250F” all the time we thought it would be fun to compare the 2020 KX250 to one of the best bikes in this class: the 2019 YZ250F. I have been riding the 2019 Yamaha YZ250F for some time and have become well aquatinted with it, so Keefer asked me to conjure up this article and now here we are! Here is how I feel the two machines match up against each other. 

When it comes to torque the Yamaha platform has been hard to beat for the past few years, but that doesn’t mean it can’t be beat in other areas of power delivery. Right when I got on the new 2020 KX250 I immediately felt like the mid to top end power was better than the blue machine. The KX engine revs free-er and has les engine braking on de-cel, which makes it very playful to ride. The Yamaha is more chuggy and you can feel every time that crankshaft comes around, which gives me that planted rear end acceleration feeling. The power on the Kawasaki doesn’t fall off as quick as bLU cRU, but to me it still doesn't rev as far as the CRF250R. Where the green machine does fall short is of course bottom end grunt power. The Yamaha simply is amazing in this area and can let any rider be lazier while still maintaining speed. The Kawasaki must be ridden more aggressively from the mid range on up. Third gear is much easier to work with through corners on the Yamaha compared to the Kawasaki, which means shifting down to second happens more often on the green machine.

Another tidbit that stood out to me is the exhaust note of the Kawasaki. The Yamaha exhaust gets blown out and raspy over time, but the Kawasaki exhaust note seems to be loud immediately. I also found it odd that if the Kawasaki was not at TDC the kick starter was hard to kick over and almost felt like a 450ish until you put a lot of force into the kick start. In other words don’t half ass your kicks and it will start. 

For the past few years Kawasaki has been using the Showa Separate Function Fork for “weight savings”, but they have finally realized that like the air fork, some things are better the old fashioned way. For 2020 they went back to a dual coil spring KYB fork as well as a KYB shock, both with Kashima coating. After playing with some clickers we came up with a comfortable setting and I came away quite impressed with the comfort as well as the performance of the front and rear suspension. It’s no secret that the Yamaha has very good suspension settings, but I think there is one category where I think the Kawasaki slightly edges out the Yamaha. When it comes to performance I feel that the Kawasaki (for my speed) has slightly better hold up (once dialed in with clickers) and handles g-outs with a slightly less wallowy feeling. That being said, in order to have better performance, you must sacrifice comfort and the Yamaha has more of that. I am sure the slightly stiffer feeling chassis on the Kawasaki has something to do with the lack of comfort as well. Something we noticed was that the front and rear balance of the bike is very sensitive to changes with the shock. With minimal changes to sag, one or two low speed clicks, and/or high speed changes on the shock, the turning characteristics were noticeably affected. Just like your wife or girlfriend the KX can be somewhat emo/sensitive to suspension changes affecting the maneuverability of the bike, but when it’s set correctly the bike handles tighter corners marginally better than the Yamaha. 

For 2020 Kawasaki put a larger 250mm rear disk on the KX 250 to help improve braking power. I’m not sure what the exact problem is with the rear brake system, but Kawasaki missed the mark because the rear brake is not as good as the Yamaha’s. After my initial ride on the bike I felt that the rear brake pedal was too low and I wasn’t able to get my toe pressed down far enough to get the braking power I desired. After moving the pedal up, I took the bike out for another session and was surprised that I still didn’t have the desired braking power. Upon further inspection we noticed that the pedal has a very long stroke to get the brake to work and when it finally does it gets very grabby feeling. This was a downside because it makes it hard to drag the brake slightly or just give the rear wheel a little stopping power without locking up the rear wheel. While the Yamaha doesn’t have amazing brakes, the rear brake on the blue bike is more linear and easier to modulate. With that said the front brake on the Kawasaki is quite good and gives the rider a powerful progressive feel with a lot of control, without having to pull the lever too hard. 

The rider triangle on the KX250 feels a little off due to the slightly soft seat. The soft seat makes the 7/8” bars (I have no problem with the bars) seem high and chopper feeling. Rolling the bars back seemed to somewhat remedy the feeling, but not completely mask the issue. Something that hasn’t changed on the Kawasaki is the cheap feeling grips that for some reason seem marginally narrow and are bonded to the throttle tube. 

The bottom line is that for 2020 Kawasaki made a move in the right direction in making the KX250 a better more competitive machine. The engine has been improved from mid to top and has a free revving feeling that makes the bike more fun to ride while giving the rider a broader power range when on the track. The suspension has made a big step in the right direction with the new KYB fork giving the rider better front end bump absorption. 

The final piece to this article is the price… The KX250’s price point comes in at $7,799 (compared to $8,199 of the Yamaha) so it’s less expensive. If you have been looking to be part of the re-formed Team Green, 2020 seems to be the year that Kawasaki made jumps in the right direction.

Any questions about these machines please email me at michael@keeferinctesting.com

2020 Husqvarna FC450 First Impression

It’s no secret that a Husqvarna was one of my favorite machines to ride in 2019. I liked it so much I went and purchased a Rockstar Edition and rode the crap out of it. I recently got my hands on the new 2020 Husqvarna FC450 and jotted down some initial thoughts for you all to go over just in case you wanted to know how it compared to the 2019 version. I will say that there are only a few updates to the 2020 model, but that doesn't mean it can’t feel drastically different on the track. Here are ten important things I feel you all should know about the 2020 Husqvarna FC450. 

WP XACT Suspension: Don’t let the name fool you. WP just did some re-branding and is now using the XACT name for 2020 WP suspension. This is NOT some new technology that just came out, it’s just a name change. However, with that being said, WP/Husqvarna did change quite a bit to the 2020 suspension settings as they now have their own proprietary setting for the FC450 model (which means they do not share a setting with KTM anymore). Husqvarna went to a softer air pressure setting in the fork to match the valving (going from 10.9 to 10.7 bars in 2020) and also went from a 4.5 rear spring to a 4.2 rear spring. Husqvarna is trying to achieve more comfort for the average rider with these settings in 2020.

Gearing: Husqvarna went from a 13/48 to a 13/49 to help third gear recovery. Having a 13/49 helps the transition when shifting from 2nd-3rd gear and lets the rider feel increased rpm response. I approve of this gearing! 

New Mapping: I love that the Husqvarna’s come with a on-the-fly handlebar map switch that offers two maps to choose from (without having to stop). For 2020 map one is what they call the ‘standard’ map, which is designed to have a controllable longer/linear power that is geared towards the non aggressive type of rider. Map two, on the other hand, is what Husqvarna is calling the ‘aggressive’ map that is supposed to be stronger across the board and although it is, it still is very linear feeling. Map two will not explode you out of a corner, but instead give you some added bottom/mid rpm response as well as have a more free feeling engine character. To me the lack of engine braking on map two makes the softer feeling fork dive less on de-cel. TC is still available and works just as good as 2019 so don't be scared to try it. If you ride hard pack tracks or slippery terrain do yourself a favor put your 2019-2020 Husqvarna FC450 on map two with the “TC” light on and thank me later.  

Piston Design: There is an updated piston skirt design for 2020 that is said to help improve durability. Don’t worry I will be the judge of the said durability improvement so make sure you stay tuned to future Rocky Mountain ATV Keefer Tested Podcasts. 

Dunlop MX3S Tires: Everyone enjoy these tires on the 2020 Husqvarna’s and KTM’s because we will not see them come 2021 on production machines! Dunlop is forcing manufacturers to go to the MX33 come the year 2021. 

Engine Feel (On Track): The engine on the 2020 Husqvarna FC450 does feel slightly different than the 2019. The overall engine character still has that smooth easy to ride feel, but with slightly less engine braking. Coming into corners you can feel less drag on the engine and less movement in the chassis. When in map two there is also more mid-range rpm response on the 2020 thanks to the mapping changes Husqvarna made. No more lean top end de-cel pop and rich bottom end feel that hampered the 2019 version. If you’re looking for a hard hitting 450 engine character this isn't your type of machine. However, if you’re looking for an easy to ride, connected to the rear wheel feel, deceivingly fast type of power, the Husqvarna could be just what you’re looking for. 

Suspension Feel (On Track): Husqvarna/WP will tell you that they set up their 2020 suspension settings for the average consumer that wants comfort out of their motocross machine. They succeeded in getting less mid stroke harshness (de-cel) out of the AER fork, but to me the setting was too soft. I also understand that I am not the target consumer Husqvarna is trying to market this bike to so I took this into consideration. The action of the fork is smoother feeling than last year’s fork setting, moves more in the stroke, but gives the rider a considerable amount of front end traction (for an air fork) on braking bumps. This fork will feel low if you’re a heavier or aggressive type of rider, so going up to 10.8-10.9 bars would be in your best interest. Slowing the rebound down a couple clicks on the fork will also slow the action down a little and keep it from diving too much on jump faces and g-outs. Also don't forget to bleed your AER fork before every ride. Yes, it has bleed holes.

The WP rear shock still likes a sag of 105mm, but the overall feel of the shock is slightly empty feeling (soft) at the end of the stroke. If slamming into steeper jump faces or g-outs you will bottom out and see rubber marks under the rear fender fairly quickly. If you’re experiencing a lot of this, stiffening your high speed compression a quarter turn and turning in your low speed compression a couple clicks will help the shock’s end stroke feel. What the 2020 rear shock does do better than the 2019 is offer more rear wheel traction on acceleration bumps. The rear wheel drives through square edge chop better and doesn't give the rider a harsh/spike feel like the 2019 shock did.    

Subframe/Motor Mount Bolts: Keep an eye on your two rear subframe bolts and engine mount bolts. On our test bike they worked their way out a little so make sure to keep some blue loctite on them and check them every so often.

Handlebar: The Pro Taper EVO bar is straight and flat, but long at 811mm. Do yourself favor and cut the bar down to 803mm and watch your cornering improve. 

What Do I Really Think: The 2020 Husqvarna FC450 is one of the easiest bikes to ride and can be enjoyed by a wide range of riders. I like this attribute! It’s user friendly 450cc nature is not too aggressive for the less experienced type of rider, yet still can get a very experienced rider around the track in a hurry, without a lot of effort. The WP suspension is softer than last year, but also gives the rider slightly more comfort on small bump absorption. The overall feeling of the bike is light around the track and allows the rider to open up his line choices. I will be testing the 2020 Husqvarna FC450 more in the coming weeks and will be getting you some optional settings to try so make sure you stay tuned to pulpmx.com and keeferinctesting.com in the coming weeks.