Chassis

Testing Terms: Engine/Suspension *Updated*

If you learning more about your motocross bikes and also getting the lingo down, there is some help for you below. Here are some common terms that we use within the R&D industry that can help you explain what your bike is doing to tuners. Even if you just want to sound cool when you’re talking to your buddies, these terms will make you look like a regular factory test guy.

Suspension:

Pitching: This word is used when the rider lets off the throttle and the weight of the motorcycle forces the front end down. This usually happens when there is a lot of engine braking or the fork is too soft. The 2021 YZ450F was notorious for having a lot of this pitching when coming into a corner. Pitching can upset the chassis balance and can cause some oversteer through area 1 and 2 of corners. Pitching can also mean that a certain bike can squat (shock) too much under throttle out of corners causing the bike to have too much movement fore and aft. Pitching can make the machine seem unstable and cause the rider to not set up properly for corners. 

Hold Up: Hold up is mostly used when the fork or shock is riding too low in the stroke. When a rider is asking for more hold up he is usually wanting a stiffer compression setting so the fork or shock isn't “blowing through”. 

Harsh: This term has got to be the worst feeling to a rider. A harsh feeling is when the suspension is either too soft or too stiff. Yes, it can actually be both! If the suspension is too stiff the rider will complain about a harsh or firm feel through the handlebars. This stiff/harsh feel is caused by the suspension not being able to use all of its stroke. If the harsh feel is coming from the stiff side, opening the compression or the rebound can help alleviate some of this feeling. If the harsh feeling is coming from a soft sensation it’s because the suspension is riding too low in the stroke. Riding too low in the stroke can cause a harsh feeling because you are now in the mid stroke where the valving starts to ramp up to get stiffer. By stiffening the suspension a little you are now stiffening the initial part of the stroke which can actually make your bike feel plusher because your machine is riding higher up in the stroke around the track. “Harsh” is a tricky term because the cause of the harsh feeling can be from a too soft or too stiff of a setting.

Plush: I have never been a huge fan of this term, but the word plush means soft or supple feeling. If I hit something at speed most riders want their bike to feel plush and not harsh. However be careful when using this term to suspension techs as they may want to set your suspension up too soft. Plush can also mean the same with frame feel. For example, the KX450 has a plusher feeling to its frame than the of the Honda CRF450R. I like to use the term “bump absorption” more than the word plush. When the Kawasaki KX450 hits a certain square edge at speed, it has a better bump absorption feel than the Honda CRF450R. Off-road riders look for that plush feeling because they have less jumps to deal with and can hit roots/bumps at higher speeds. A softer compression setting or a faster rebound setting usually leads to a plusher feel.

Crust: We can thank air forks for this term. I came up with this term when I was at home during thanksgiving and I was watching my wife make a french apple pie. I always liked the middle of the pie more than the crust, so it immediately made me think of air forks. In order to get to the gooey goodness of the pie, I have to break through the crust right? Well air forks are the same thing! The top of the stroke of almost any air fork is called the crust because it’s usually has a hard/harsh feel initially and then you have some comfort. The crust usually gives you some deflection and a harsh feeling through the handlebars on small chop. We use the word crust because air forks usually feel like you have to break through the stiff portion of the travel in order to get to the softer/more forgiving portion of the stroke. WP has improved the air fork feel over the years so let's hope they continue down the path of a less crusty initial stroke on their air forks.

Empty: This term can be used when talking about engine character or suspension feel. When talking suspension empty usually means there is not a lot of damping feel. If you say “I feel like my end stroke is empty”, it means that it blows through or simply doesn't have any damping feel.  

Rigidity Balance: Rigidity balance is an important term when testing any chassis. If the bike has a firm feel and its rigidity balance is too firm it could mean that it corners excellent, but feels very harsh and has deflection on rough/fast straights. If the rigidity balance is too soft the bike can have a wallow feeling when under throttle as well as give the rider less confidence on braking bumps because of its unpredictable feel. Rigidity balance is something that every manufacturer works a lot on when developing their machine. A bike has to corner with precision, but also have enough comfort in order to have good bump absorption. A machine that has great rigidity balance is a Kawasaki KX450 because it turns well and can hit bumps at speed with a consistent feel.   

Performance: Performance is a word we used in the testing world when a rider is looking to ride at a higher level as well as be able to push the motorcycle without having it be too soft. Getting a chassis or suspension package to have better performance is basically asking the tuner that you understand that you’ll sacrifice some comfort, in order to get a machine that you can slam into obstacles harder without getting blow through. Usually riders that are faster or heavier want a performance based setting so they can hit jumps as well as bumps at a faster rate. 

 Comfort: A comfort setting is something most vet riders want so they don’t feel every little bump on the track. A comfort setting usually involves a softer setting that moves more in the stroke, but also can bottom out when hitting bigger jumps or larger bumps at speed. The 2021 YZ450F’s suspension package is a great example of blending both performance and comfort together. 

 Blow Through: This usually happens when hitting bumps/jumps hard and the suspension just dives without much damping force feel. If your suspension feels like it’s blowing through then you need to try and get a stiffer setting through clickers or internally with valving.  

Vague: Vague is usually a term used by describing front wheel traction. Front wheel lean angle traction can feel vague when the fork setting is too stiff, have the wrong offset triple clamps, or if you have the wrong compound front tire. A vague feel means that you will be washing your front tire out under lean angle and the bike may have less of a contact patch. Running too much air in your tire can also give you a vague feel.

 Damping Feel: Damping feel or force is the feeling of the suspension when moving down. Damping feel is used when explaining to tuners that you either have a soft feeling and need more of a stiffer setting. Damping feel can also be helpful/used when asked if the action of the suspension is too fast or too slow. 

 Deflection: Deflection happens when either a suspension setting is too stiff or a chassis setting is too rigid. Deflection happens when your front or rear end hits a bump/square edge and your bike simply doesn't absorb it. It’s like a pinball bouncing around from some side to side and can cause you to roll the throttle off in a hurry. Deflection also causes you to have less contact patch and makes the bike feel less planted. Going to a softer setting with the suspension or chassis usually alleviates some of this feeling. 

Contact Patch: Contact patch is a feeling of how much tire is felt underneath you. Contact patch can be increased by running less air pressure in your tires, running a softer suspension setting, chassis setting and/or increasing/decreasing offset. I like using this term a lot with my evaluations because without the feeling of a wide contact patch it will feel like you are running bicycle tires on your dirt bike. Having a wide contact patch feel gives you more confidence to roll the throttle on sooner when exiting corners. 

Engine:

Empty: This term is shared with the suspension side of things as well, but when a rider says that at a certain point that his power feels empty, he could mean that it’s a little lean or it just feels flat. Empty refers to a feeling where there is no more pulling power, or the power just simply feels flat (not exciting). 

Dirty Feeling: When a machine has a dirty feel to it that usually means the ECU/jetting is rich. A dirty feel means that the bike sputters, coughs, misses, etc., and most of the time it is due to a rich setting. Getting a dirty feeling delivery can also mean that your air filter element is clogged. You should clean it.

Recovery: Recovery describes how quickly a rider can get back into the meat of the power when missing a shift or when the machine is being lugged. Recovery is important because it gives the rider the confidence to know that if they make a mistake, the machine can get back up in the RPM’s and move down the track in a quick manner.

Excitement: Excitement is usually the initial feeling of the crack of the throttle anywhere in the RPM range. The Honda CRF450R is known to have a lot of excitement down low, but that excitement can also be a handful when rolling  corners. If a machine doesn't have enough excitement it also can suffer from poor recovery. See what I did there?

Lethargic/Lazy: This term is used for a machine that revs heavy or is slow to rev/spool up. A rich feeling can cause bottom end to feel lethargic/lazy feeling. Lethatgic can also mean that you will have to use the clutch a lot to get the engine into the meat of the power. 

Pulling Power: Pulling power is similar to torque feel. Pulling power is usually felt when the machine is exiting the corner or when driving up hills. The initial pop out of the corner usually reveals how much pulling power a certain bike has.

RPM Response: RPM response is the initial crack of the throttle anywhere in the RPM range. Excitement and RPM response can share the same meaning at times except when talking about having a lazy feeling engine character. Having good RPM response in an engine is important because it can help the machine feel lighter and more flickable.

Bottom End: Bottom end delivery usually refers to the power feel once immediately out of corners or when getting off the gate.

Mid-Range: Mid-Range delivery usually refers to the power feeling once exited from the corner and the rider is starting to make his shift into third gear. Mid-range feeling can be experienced in any gear but is only categorized by throttle position in the production testing world.

Top End: Top end is felt when a rider is full throttle and is accelerating down a straight. Top end can be felt in any gear but is most recognized in third and fourth gears on a moto track. How far the bike can pull each gear is usually categorized as top end.

Over-Rev: Over-rev is a term used by most testers as a sign of when the engine falls off its peak horsepower/top end. Having an engine with good over-rev means that the engine can pull each gear farther down the track without having to shift up a gear. Having an engine with a short over-rev means that the engine likes to be short shifted (up to the next gear early in the RPM range) and can't pull its gears very long.

Connectivity: This term is used when a test rider is trying to explain the feeling he has from this throttle hand to the rear wheel. Does his throttle and rear wheel feel connected to the ground or does the bike break loose or slide out? Good connectivity to the rear wheel allows for an easier-to-ride machine and can help the chassis settle down on rough tracks.

2021 Honda CRF450R Optional Torque Specs

I have spoke about how important the torque specs are on the 2020 Honda CRF450R before, but in a recent test session with the 2021 CRF450R, this statement never became more true. As always I am looking for more comfort out the 2021 Honda CRF450R chassis even though it is slightly more forgiving than the 2020 version. Out of all the bikes that I ride, I feel like the Honda fits me the best ergonomically, but it’s always a struggle for me to find comfort when I hit rough tracks. If I go to a soft bumpy track, I really enjoy riding the 2021 CRF450R, but when I get to a rough/choppy dry type of track, the Honda just beats me up too much. 

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So for 2021, I thought I would revisit some torque specs on the CRF450R chassis and see if it helps as much as it did with the 2020 CRF450R. I spent a few days experimenting with torque settings and have came up with the spec chart below. What these updated torque specs do is slightly improve the bump compliancy and front/rear wheel traction of the 2021 CRF450R. This isn’t a cure all, but you will feel a little extra comfort in your red ride. If you don’t see a torque spec on a portion of the bike that is not below, don’t freak out, just go with the stock recommended torque spec. I experimented with a lot of different parts of the chassis with torque specs and the bolts/nuts below make the mosts difference on the red machine. It may not seem like much, but it’s the little things on this bike that can make the Honda chassis FUN for the average guy. Out of all of the machines that I have experimented with on torque settings, this bike reacts the most to it, so pay attention to your nuts/bolts on your Honda!

Follow the torque spec sheet below and make sure to blue Loc-Tite the bolts/nuts on each to ensure you have no issues down the road.

Rear Axle Nut (Qty. 1): 

Stock: 128 Nm

Updated Spec: 120 Nm

Fork Top Clamp Pinch Bolts (Qty. 4):

Stock: 22 Nm

Updated Spec: 19 Nm

Fork Bottom Clamp Pinch Bolts (Qty. 4):

Stock: 20 Nm

Updated Spec: 16-17 Nm

Swingarm Pivot Nut (Qty. 1):

Stock: 88 Nm

Updated Spec: 81 Nm

Front Engine Hanger Plate Bolts (Qty. 4):

Stock: 26 Nm

Updated Spec: 24 Nm

Front Engine Hanger Plate Nut (Qty. 1):

Stock: 54 Nm

Updated Spec: 51 Nm

Cylinder Head Hanger Bolt (Qty.2):

Stock 54 Nm

Updated Spec: 51 Nm

Cylinder head Hanger Plate Bolts (Qty 4):

Stock: 32 Nm

Updated Spec: 29 Nm

Shock Absorber Upper Mounting Bolt (Qty. 1): 

Stock: 44 Nm

Updated Spec: 42 Nm










Top 5 Money Mods And Top 3 Free Mods (Honda CRF450R)

Is there anything more beautiful than a brand new Honda CRF450R? Every time I walk out into the shop and I see that red machine sitting there, it just makes me want to go ride. However looks can be deceiving, because the Honda CRF450R can be a handful to ride on a fast, rough track that requires comfort. You see, the Honda chassis is on the stiffer side compared to other brands and with that stiffness comes a motorcycle that turns great, feels light when riding, but also gives the rider a harsh feel when hitting bumps. I’ll be completely honest here and tell you if the Honda didn’t have that stiff natured chassis feel in stock form, I would probably ride a CRF450R a hell of a lot more on my own time.

So in order to be able to call myself a “test rider” I better get off my ass and test some things that improve this machine right? These are five modifications that I have discovered while testing alongside Chad at XPR Motorsports. If you don’t know Chad, go back and listen to show #168 of the Keefer Tested Podcast. I have come to the conclusion that when I’m dealing with a 450cc motocross machine, I tend to flock to a bike with a smooth roll on power that is linear and long. Below are my “Top 5 Mods” that cost money as well as my “Top 3 Mods” that cost nothing. These modifications are geared towards calming the Honda down while getting more comfort out of the chassis. Once I did these modifications, it gave the Honda a feel that allowed me to ride the machine harder in rougher conditions.. It also made me want to load up this red machine first to go ride and leave the others in my shop. If you have any questions about these modifications please feel free to email me at kris@keeferinctesting.com

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Vortex ECU Mapped By XPR Motorsports: The stock 2020 CRF450R mapping is an improvement over previous years, but it’s still simply too much on anything less than a freshly tilled up loamy track. In order to get more connection to the rear wheel and control you will have to get a Vortex ECU. This is not cheap, but rest assured this ECU, along with some of Chad’s maps have helped this chassis calm down. I usually am a “Map One/Two” kind of guy on the stock ECU, because it gives me more of a broad feel when trying to roll my corners correctly. I have tried a couple re-flashes of the stock ECU, but none have been as good as the Vortex system. The Vortex system gives you more parameters to work with and broadens the strong engine character, so that you are able to get on the throttle sooner, have more rear wheel connection, and most importantly doesn’t bind the already stiff natured chassis feel. In fact, this Vortex ECU helps the Honda feel less rigid because there is simply less engine braking with the maps we created. I have worked many hours with Chad in creating some linear maps that work for all levels of riding.

Akrapovic Evolution Muffler System: The Akrapovic muffler system shifts the Honda’s power around like no other muffler system I have tried to date. Once out on the track is when I realized that this Akrapovic muffler system could actually help this Honda chassis calm down. The Evolution system lets the Honda’s engine roll on smoother at low RPM’s and that smoother feel helps the rear wheel connection as well as provides less pitching (off throttle) than the stock system. AKA MORE COMFORT!!! The Honda CRF450R now builds a smoother roll delivery and a pulling power that is longer through the mid range than the stock system. This type of character can allow you to use second gear in corners more because the second gear hit is not as abrupt or quick and that doesn’t upset your technique or the chassis. The Akrapovic also allows the rider to shift later out of the corner with its increased over-rev capabilities. Pulling power up top is increased slightly as your shifting points can be altered now because of the longer pull in each gear. The mid range recovery of the Akrapovic is not as good as the stock system, but honestly that is not a bad thing. The Honda has so much power to work with that a little less “hit” as well as “recovery” actually helps me with cornering and allows me to be more aggressive on the Honda. I want to be able to ride this red bike and not let it ride me after 15 minutes into a moto. The Akrapovic system relaxes the engine as well off throttle. There is less  engine braking with the Evolution system and that also helps your fork from feeling harsh on small de-cel bumps. 

Custom Clutch Arm: The stock Honda’s clutch engagement point is very narrow and although the Rekluse Torque Drive Clutch pack helps the life/pull, the engagement is still too on/off for me. Chad at XPR Motorsports makes a custom clutch arm that really helps get an increased linear feel out of your clutch engagement. Not only is my engagement point wider, but it also delivers the power to the ground smoother, which in turn gave me more throttle to rear wheel feel. What does this mean? More consistent starts and better mid-exit corner rear wheel connection.”

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Rekluse Torque Drive Clutch Pack: Rekluse offers a clutch pack (fibers, steels, springs) that replaces your OEM clutch plates and adds additional discs to your existing OEM clutch basket. It’s as easy as swapping your clutch plates into your OEM components. The TorqDrive thin friction disk technology allows more disks to fit in your OEM clutch’s footprint, decreasing slip and unlocking the full power of that Honda CRF450R engine. Once I installed the Rekluse system the clutch life of the CRF450R went up as well as rear wheel control on hard pack surfaces. The combination of the XPR clutch arm as well as this Rekluse clutch pack allows the Honda hook up better and gives me added control where the Honda needed it most, accelerating out of rough/choppy corners.

Pro Taper EVO Handlebars: I didn’t get to stick a pair of Pro Taper’s on until after my initial testing, but once I did I wondered why I didn’t do it sooner. The anti vibration quality of the Pro Taper Evo is superb as well as the comfort of the bar on jump landings/braking bumps. You might be surprised on how many riders actually use Pro Taper bars that are disguised as other bars on some big name motocross teams.

Top Three Chassis Mods/Tips That Cost You Nothing: 

Swingarm Pivot Bolt Torque Spec: Re-torquing the swingarm pivot bolt to 60 ft. lbs. helps with rear wheel traction as well as helps the rear end soak up small chop. This is only a small change, but can actually make a huge improvement. 

Engine Tilt: I stumbled across this mod when Chad at XPR unexpectedly did this without me even knowing. When I came off the track and commented I felt less vibration though my feet/handlebars as well as a better initial lean coming into corners he was kind of blown away. Since then I have tried this on another test bike and got similar results so I thought it was worth mentioning to you. The first step to tilting your CRF 450 engine in the chassis is to loosen off all motor mounts and engine hangers,(without completely removing the bolts or nuts) seeing how you are going to have to quickly tighten the motor mounting nuts while holding the engine in place. This includes the swingarm pivot bolt, lower engine bolt, three upper engine bolts that mount to frame and engine, finally the left and right engine hangers on the sides of the frame and engine. Next step is to find a long flat blade screw driver or a longer tire iron works best. Place the tire iron or screw driver in between the frame and the engine in the middle of the lower engine bolt and the upper engine bolts. By pushing down on the tire iron or screw driver you will notice the motor lift up and back in the chassis. While continuing to push down on the tire iron or screw driver begin to tighten the three upper engine bolts/nuts first and then the lower engine bolt /nut. Get these nuts and bolts tight enough to hold the engine in place without the motor sliding down again. Torque these four nuts to the manufacturers specifications then move to the swing arm axle nut and finally to the engine hanger bolts and torque them to the manufacturers specifications.

Top Engine Mount Torque Specs: Similar to the swingarm pivot, the top engine hangers play a huge roll in how the bike feels. I have tried aftermarket engine hangers on the updated 2019-2020 chassis and never felt confident that they did a good enough job to warrant the cost. To me re-torquing the top engine hanger bolts did a better job at creating a more compliant/calm frame feel when hitting square edge or braking bumps on straight line without sacrificing cornering feel. Doing this isn't going to make your Honda feel like a Kawasaki through rough sections of the track, but it will feel less firm when the track gets ugly. There are three bolts per engine hanger and you will re-torque the top two bolts that go to the frame at 20 ft. lbs. as well as the bottom bolt that goes into the engine to 37 ft. lbs. It’s not much but it does make a difference. 
















Testing Terms Explained (Suspension/Chassis)

Since we are in some weird times right now with this quarantine stuff, I thought it could be cool to learn a little about what each testing term means. What better way to get more in tune with your motorcycle than learning what the definition is to each term. If you listen to the Keefer Tested Podcast or read anything here on keeferinctesting.com you will hear/see these testing terms being used. Some of you have emailed me and asked what the hell some of these terms mean, so below is your template on what each means. Hopefully you can use these to your advantage next time you are talking about your machine or need to get a certain point across to your suspension/chassis tuner.  

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Pitching: This word is used when the rider lets off the throttle and the weight of the motorcycle forces the front end down. This usually happens when there is a lot of engine braking or the fork is too soft. The 2018 YZ450F was notorious for having a lot of this pitching when coming into a corner. Pitching can upset the chassis balance and can cause some oversteer through area 1 and 2 of corners. Pitching can also mean that a certain bike can squat (shock) too much under throttle out of corners causing the bike to have too much movement fore and aft. Pitching can make the machine seem unstable and cause the rider to not set up properly for corners. 

Hold Up: Hold up is mostly used when the fork or shock is riding too low in the stroke. When a rider is asking for more hold up he is usually wanting a stiffer compression setting so the fork or shock isn't “blowing through”. 

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Harsh: This term has got to be the worst feeling to a rider. A harsh feeling is when the suspension is either too soft or too stiff. Yes, it can actually be both! If the suspension is too stiff the rider will complain about a harsh or firm feel through the handlebars. This stiff/harsh feel is caused by the suspension not being able to use all of its stroke. If the harsh feel is coming from the stiff side, opening the compression or the rebound can help alleviate some of this feeling. If the harsh feeling is coming from a soft sensation it’s because the suspension is riding too low in the stroke. Riding too low in the stroke can cause a harsh feeling because you are now in the mid stroke where the valving starts to ramp up to get stiffer. By stiffening the suspension a little you are now stiffening the initial part of the stroke which can actually make your bike feel plusher because your machine is riding higher up in the stroke around the track. “Harsh” is a tricky term because the cause of the harsh feeling can be from a too soft or too stiff of a setting.

Plush: I have never been a huge fan of this term, but the word plush means soft or supple feeling. If I hit something at speed most riders want their bike to feel plush and not harsh. However be careful when using this term to suspension techs as they may want to set your suspension up too soft. Plush can also mean the same with frame feel. For example, the KX450 has a plusher feeling to its frame than the of the Honda CRF450R. I like to use the term “bump absorption” more than the word plush. When the Kawasaki KX450 hits a certain square edge at speed, it has a better bump absorption feel than the Honda CRF450R. Off-road riders look for that plush feeling because they have less jumps to deal with and can hit roots/bumps at higher speeds. A softer compression setting or a faster rebound setting usually leads to a plusher feel.

Crust: We can thank air forks for this term. I came up with this term when I was at home during thanksgiving and I was watching my wife make a french apple pie. I always liked the middle of the pie more than the crust, so it immediately made me think of air forks. In order to get to the gooey goodness of the pie, I have to break through the crust right? Well air forks are the same thing! The top of the stroke of almost any air fork is called the crust because it’s usually has a hard/harsh feel initially and then you have some comfort. The crust usually gives you some deflection and a harsh feeling through the handlebars on small chop. We use the word crust because air forks usually feel like you have to break through the stiff portion of the travel in order to get to the softer/more forgiving portion of the stroke. WP has improved the air fork feel over the years so let's hope they continue down the path of a less crusty initial stroke on their air forks.  

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Empty: This term can be used when talking about engine character or suspension feel. When talking suspension empty usually means there is not a lot of damping feel. If you say “I feel like my end stroke is empty”, it means that it blows through or simply doesn't have any damping feel. 

Rigidity Balance: Rigidity balance is an important term when testing any chassis. If the bike has a firm feel and its rigidity balance is too firm it could mean that it corners excellent, but feels very harsh and has deflection on rough/fast straights. If the rigidity balance is too soft the bike can have a wallow feeling when under throttle as well as give the rider less confidence on braking bumps because of its unpredictable feel. Rigidity balance is something that every manufacturer works a lot on when developing their machine. A bike has to corner with precision, but also have enough comfort in order to have good bump absorption. A machine that has great rigidity balance is a Kawasaki KX450 because it turns well and can hit bumps at speed with a consistent feel.   

Performance: Performance is a word we used in the testing world when a rider is looking to ride at a higher level as well as be able to push the motorcycle without having it be too soft. Getting a chassis or suspension package to have better performance is basically asking the tuner that you understand that you’ll sacrifice some comfort, in order to get a machine that you can slam into obstacles harder without getting blow through. Usually riders that are faster or heavier want a performance based setting so they can hit jumps as well as bumps at a faster rate. 

Comfort: A comfort setting is something most vet riders want so they don’t feel every little bump on the track. A comfort setting usually involves a softer setting that moves more in the stroke, but also can bottom out when hitting bigger jumps or larger bumps at speed. The 2020 YZ450F’s suspension package is a great example of blending both performance and comfort together. 

Blow Through: This usually happens when hitting bumps/jumps hard and the suspension just dives without much damping force feel. If your suspension feels like it’s blowing through then you need to try and get a stiffer setting through clickers or internally with valving.  

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Vague: Vague is usually a term used by describing front wheel traction. Front wheel lean angle traction can feel vague when the fork setting is too stiff, have the wrong offset triple clamps, or if you have the wrong compound front tire. A vague feel means that you will be washing your front tire out under lean angle and the bike may have less of a contact patch. Running too much air in your tire can also give you a vague feel.

Damping Feel: Damping feel or force is the feeling of the suspension when moving down. Damping feel is used when explaining to tuners that you either have a soft feeling and need more of a stiffer setting. Damping feel can also be helpful/used when asked if the action of the suspension is too fast or too slow. 

Deflection: Deflection happens when either a suspension setting is too stiff or a chassis setting is too rigid. Deflection happens when your front or rear end hits a bump/square edge and your bike simply doesn't absorb it. It’s like a pinball bouncing around from some side to side and can cause you to roll the throttle off in a hurry. Deflection also causes you to have less contact patch and makes the bike feel less planted. Going to a softer setting with the suspension or chassis usually alleviates some of this feeling. 

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Contact Patch: Contact patch is a feeling of how much tire is felt underneath you. Contact patch can be increased by running less air pressure in your tires, running a softer suspension setting, chassis setting and/or increasing/decreasing offset. I like using this term a lot with my evaluations because without the feeling of a wide contact patch it will feel like you are running bicycle tires on your dirt bike. Having a wide contact patch feel gives you more confidence to roll the throttle on sooner when exiting corners.