How A Man Rekindled His Fire For Dirt Bikes Through A Suzuki RM-Z450

Written By: Preston Jordan

Disclaimer: The only thing with two wheels that I am proficient with is a household dolly. Do not take my words as gospel, I’m just a fortunate, below-average rider who was given an opportunity to tell you all about my experiences. Take it or leave it, this is my experience and opinion… nothing more, nothing less! We all know how weird people can get when faced with a difference in opinions and beliefs. 

Get yourself a beverage and delicious snack because this is going to be a long-winded, overly detailed article about my journey back into motocross on a bike that I discovered I actually never knew anything about. I guess I should start with a little history… The last bike that I owned was a 2014 KX450f, which was a great bike, zero complaints. In fact, I loved Kawasaki’s so much that I bought three KX450fs in a row and never really bothered to give any other manufacturer a chance to take my hard-earned money. I spent years of my life messing around at local tracks on weekends with friends, but as time passed, things changed, and my passion for riding began to fizzle out. After just about all my regular moto friends either got hurt or started families and quit riding, the last bike that I owned basically just collected dust in my buddy Bryan Buchanan’s (co-owner of ERA Moto) garage. After a while of not having anyone to ride moto with anymore, riding by myself became stale and boring, so rides became few and far between. 

After Bryan loaned me an extremely outdated 1990’s mountain bike and took me out to a local MTB trail network, I quickly became hooked. This newfound sport quickly became an obsession, resulting in a quick transition from motocross to mountain biking. Not long after that first MTB ride, I decided that it was time to take the final step and sell my hooked up KX450f while it was still worth any bit of money. After pocketing a decent amount of cash for my bike, I used some of the proceeds to help get my first mountain bike in February of 2018. I knew that I probably wouldn’t be able to afford to get a new bike ever again, but I decided to take the plunge anyway. Since then, I have spent just about every free weekend of my life riding my mountain bike and I am still just in love with MTB as I was after that first ride at Greer Ranch in 2018. Mountain bikes helped fill that void that grew when riding motocross fell out for me. In fact, I almost immediately lost interest in riding motocross and didn’t put much effort into getting back out riding.

The last time I rode a dirt bike was at the 2019 KX450f media intro at Pala Raceway in June of 2018. I literally did a lap or two on the vet track then handed the bike right back to the people at Kawi… I thought that ride was it for me, the end of my time riding motocross. I didn’t really enjoy it that much because I just felt extremely uncomfortable. Fast forward to December 2021; I got a FaceTime call from Keefer stating that he had a girl that he wanted to hook me up with. Anyone who knows Keefer would understand why I took the comment completely seriously. I immediately tried to shut the entire situation down, thinking I was getting tossed into an awkward situation that would make some other random stranger just as uncomfortable. He told me that girl he was talking about was sitting in his garage, so he walked outside to give me a glimpse… What was sitting there waiting for me was a beautiful new 2022 RMZ450. After a brief talk about what he expected out of me if he gave me the opportunity to borrow the bike, we discussed a timeframe to come by and grab it. Just a week or two later and I was on my way up to Hesperia to take temporary possession of a dirt bike for the first time in a few years; to say that I was excited to have the opportunity to ride again is an understatement.

Up until this point, I had only ridden a Suzuki one time before, which was right before the Keefer Inc. 450 shootout back in 2017. My initial impression of the 2018 RMZ450 back then was that it was incredibly stiff! I could feel every single bump on a somewhat smooth Racetown 395/Sunrise MX track, which led to me hopping off it prematurely. To be fair, I also immediately noticed that it turned like an absolute dream. No matter how far you leaned it over, it never felt like dead weight that wanted to just continue falling to the ground. Suzuki’s have long been known for their flawless cornering capabilities, but outside of that, a lot of people have negative things to say. I never gave the bike a chance to see if some of the hate they got was warranted, and that lies solely on me.

I really didn’t know what exactly to expect when I picked the bike up from Kris, but to be honest, I wasn’t expecting too great of things out of it for the rough trail riding here in the desert based off the stereotypical Suzuki comments that I always saw across social media and my single experience with the rigid frame when I rode it at Racetown 395/Sunrise MX. If it felt a bit harsh on the smooth track that I rode it on, I figured that I wouldn’t be able to handle it in the open desert. Regardless, I was offered a new bike to ride so who am I to have a preference of what bike I’m being handed to ride? I’m a below-average rider who was given an insane opportunity so Keefer could have given me a Cannondale MX400 (they make incredible mountain bikes nowadays, btw) and I still would have been just as happy and appreciative. I was loaned a current year, fresh 450 and that had me extremely excited to be able to ride again.

After Keefer got me set up with the bike and some gear, I was just about ready to get out and ride. I knew (and still know) that I had no business on a track, so I decided to keep it local and ride trails where I live to try to get somewhat comfortable again. I still hope to ride Cahuilla MX again before Suzuki or Keefer asks for this thing back, but I have no interest in rushing to get back out there, only to get myself or someone else hurt because I had no business out there yet in the first place. I hit a local motorsports store where I live to get the rest of what I needed so within days, all that was left was for me to do was ride the thing.

My first ride back was an interesting one, to say the least. I was surprised at how foreign it felt! A few years off had me feeling like a complete beginner all over again. My braking points were embarrassing, my balance was bad, I was staring at the front wheel the entire time, etc. Not to say that I wasn’t doing that when I used to ride a lot, but man did I feel out of sorts. I knew it would be bad, but I had no idea it would be this bad. Regardless, I knew that only time would help fix this mess, so I soldiered on for more local trails to try to dust off some of the endless cobwebs.  

As soon as I got onto a familiar trail, I decided to open the bike up. To my surprise, I discovered how quick the Suzuki 450 is. I wasn’t expecting the bike to get up to speed as rapidly as it did, and I did not remember my last 450 feeling this quick! I decided that I needed to back off a bit and get more used to the bike before I found myself at the front door of a local ER. I spent the rest of the ride putting around and learning some of the characteristics of this uncomfortably speedy 450. 

After a few more rides on the RMZ, I got more comfortable with it and started to figure out why I initially felt the way that I did about the speediness of the bike. The power delivery of the Suzuki is laughably smooth! When you crack the throttle, it doesn’t just yank out from under you and unsettle your body weight… the power rolls on gradually, which helps keep the rear wheel tracking. I wanted to see if the bike felt this way throughout the entire range of the motor, so I would purposely lug around in a higher gear then drop the clutch and roll on the throttle. Every time, the bike would hook up and take off without the rear wheel feeling like it was ever breaking free. Insane traction out of a motor this beastly in stock form! For someone like me who hasn’t been on a bike in years, the incredibly smooth characteristics of the motor was more than welcomed and a breath of fresh air. 

If a smooth motor isn’t your thing, there’s good news! Although not solely unique to only Suzuki’s, I appreciate the ability to swap out couplers and/or do your own custom mapping on the RMZ450 using a simple phone app to tweak the motor to your own special preferences. This comes in handy when you want to set up maps for specific tracks that you ride, or if you don’t like the feel of the motor in its stock form, you can change the delivery of power to suit your needs. The ability to customize is always nice and the simplicity of using an app makes it that much cooler. Personally, I’ve been riding the bike with the stock black coupler, and it is easily more than enough for me right now. If I still have the bike for a while and feel it might be fun to mess around with after I feel comfortable riding again, I may mess with some of the tuning someday, but for now, the motor feels incredible in stock form! Zero complaints.

The bike feels extremely comfortable to sit on and I felt at home with most of the ergonomics just about immediately. The only major slip up that I had was with the controls… more specifically, the brakes. I didn’t think it would be an issue, but I almost earthed myself more times than I’d like to admit from grabbing a fistful of front brake, mistaking it for the rear brake like my MTB! After about 5 times of almost losing the front end, I started to figure it out. The bars are also quite a bit narrower than my mountain bike bars, but I was able to adapt to that relatively quickly. I didn’t get the feeling that I was sitting on the bike as much as I did sitting in the bike, if that makes sense; more sitting in a pocket than just on a flat bike. This feeling of comfort coupled with the incredible cornering characteristics of the bike really makes for an easy riding bike! Truly, just about everything in stock form felt almost perfectly set up for me, helping lessen the uneasiness of me feeling like I was about to die every other second. 

Don’t get me wrong, although the bike is extremely comfortable in stock form, not everything is rainbows and sunshine for me. There were a few negatives that I noticed, but they’re small and nitpicky so likely a nonissue for the average rider. The biggest negative that I felt right off the bat was the twitchiness of the front end in small chop and braking bumps. The front end felt very nervous in small and successive bumps, but oddly felt nice and composed in larger rollers and whoops. I figured this out the hard way when I went to pin it through a rough straight and almost had the bars yank out of my hands, like complete speed wobbles. I can’t fault the inherent characteristics of the Suzuki for this issue, as I figured that it was simply a setup issue with the spring fork. I went riding with a local buddy of mine, Zack, who has learned a ton about suspension over the years and recently started doing his own valving, so after some discussion, we made some very minor adjustments to try to get me more comfortable. After just a few clicks of rebound adjustment up front, the bike felt night and day better, although it still gets a little nervous in similar conditions from time to time. The front end feels way more manageable after those few clicks of adjustment, and I may dial more things in later down the line, depending on how long I have the bike. 

If you’re willing to take the time to set your bike up correctly for yourself, I’m sure what I was feeling would be a nonissue or something that could easily be fixed with a simple revalve from your preferred suspension shop. Again, I will say that although I did have an issue with successive small chop, the suspension felt pillowy soft through everything else. I’ve had nicely valved suspension on previous bikes, and none felt as comfortable and predictable as the stock suspension on this thing does. If put in words, the only way that I can describe it is an old Cadillac… it soaks everything up well!

Another personal gripe is how thin the bike feels around my knees. I know that most people like a thinner bike because it feels more nimble and more maneuverable, but I felt that this bike was a just a wee bit too thin for my liking, making it quite a bit harder for me to grip the bike. I feel like the only thing I can do to grip the bike is always squeeze tightly with my ankles, since the bike is widest at the cases, making it a bit more difficult to grip the seat with my knees unless I turn my toes way in for an unnatural feel. This may be another nonissue though since I sold my knee braces a while back and am currently just using knee pads. If I currently wore knee brace, this would likely be unnoticeable. I plan to get knee braces in the somewhat near future so I might be singing a different tune soon. These last few little nitpicks were my only complaints… I might discover more in the future, but so far everything else has been solid.

So, it has been a few weeks since I’ve started riding again and it has definitely been a bit of an eye opener. I am still hilariously bad at riding a dirt bike and I am absurdly sore since tons of my muscles haven’t been worked this hard in years, but I am enjoying every single bit of getting back into it! Even though I am still laughably bad at riding anything two wheels, I feel like being on mountain bikes this entire time has helped the transition back into dirt bikes. Things that I have learned from mountain bikes have helped me with riding a dirt bike and made things not so foreign. On the same note, I feel like riding a dirt bike will absolutely help me with riding a mountain bike. When the time comes to hand the RMZ450 back over, I feel like I will have gained a lot from the opportunity! 

To sum this overly and unnecessarily lengthy article up, the Suzuki is a fantastic bike, and not just for people getting back into the sport like I am, but for anyone looking for a solid bike with a plethora of positive characteristics. I still hope to be able to ride a current model CRF450 and/or KX450 someday to see what differences I am capable of noticing, but for now, this bike has really opened my eyes to the Suzuki 450’s capabilities. I can admit that after combining my first experience riding a Suzuki with all the social media hoopla, I also developed a lack of interest in trying a Suzuki for any extended amount of time. After having been able to ride this one consistently for a few weeks now, I’ve come to realize that I am the idiot that I always knew I was… this bike is honestly way better than I was expecting. I have no reason to lie to any of you naysayers… this bike is probably A LOT better than you might think it is, too.

 If you’re on the cusp of grabbing a new RMZ450 but are unsure because of the comments that you read online or hear from strangers at the track, my personal suggestion is that you should probably ignore others’ opinions (mine, the stranger included) and give one a try! You never know, you may end up just as pleasantly surprised as I am. This bike has given me the itch to get back into moto and as soon as I am financially able (hopefully within this lifetime), I will be getting myself a new 450. Who knows, it might even be a Suzuki. If so, I hope to bring you more lengthy reads in the future. Thanks for the endless opportunities, Keefer!

TLDR: Suzuki’s are probably better than you might think they are, dirt bikes and mountain bikes are just about equally as fun and beneficial to each other, my entire body hurts, extreme sports are expensive.

Reveal: 2022 Husqvarna FC250/450 Rockstar Editions

I have been out in Clermont, Florida since last Friday spending time with Aldon Baker and the Rockstar Husqvarna team. We have been doing some training as well as some riding at Aldon’s but also got to see the reveal of the new 2022 Husqvarna FC250/450 Rockstar Editions. It has been an eye opening experience getting to train alongside the team and seeing first hand how close all of these guys really are. All of the riders on the team seem to really get along and gel well together. There will be some stories from my trip later but in the meantime feast your eyes on some of the details of the new FC250/450 Rockstar Editions. -KK

Husqvarna Motorcycles 2022 FC 250 Rockstar Edition and FC 450 Rockstar Edition 

Husqvarna Motorcycles introduces the 2022 FC 250 Rockstar Edition and FC 450 Rockstar Edition models. All-new engines and chassis keep competitive motocross riders ahead of their rivals, race after race. Class-leading, dynamic performance delivers instant power, while advanced ergonomics provide complete control.

The FC 250 Rockstar Edition features a DOHC engine with unrivalled power and torque. The FC 450 Rockstar Edition has an SOHC unit, also delivering class-leading performance. Both engines are all-new, lightweight and are repositioned in their frames for optimal mass-centralization, guaranteeing easy handling and control. 

The FC 250 Rockstar Edition and FC 450 Rockstar Edition also have completely revised chassis for 2022. Both bikes feature a new hydro-formed chromium molybdenum frame designed for improved anti-squat behavior under power. A new die-cast aluminum swingarm provides optimal rigidity with low weight. A durable, aluminum-polyamide hybrid subframe is designed for specifically calculated rigidity.

Suspension is by WP. New XACT 48 mm front forks with AER technology provide more progressive damping at the end of their stroke, while the latest XACT rear shock design features tool-free adjustment.

A new, multifunctional map switch selects power delivery modes. It also activates traction and launch control features, and an Easy Shift for seamless upshifts of the revised-ratio five-speed gearboxes in both the FC 250 Rockstar Edition and FC450 Rockstar Edition. 

New bodywork, adorned with the latest Rockstar Energy Husqvarna Factory Racing graphics, has tailored ergonomics for ease of movement on the motorcycle. This gives riders greater control to focus on racing.

The FC 250 Rockstar Edition and FC 450 Rockstar Edition replicate the Rockstar Energy Husqvarna Factory Racing bikes competing in AMA Supercross, and offer competitive machinery to all motocross racers.

Technical highlights

ï New bodywork with specifically tailored ergonomics for easier movement on the motorcycle

ï New hydro-formed chromium molybdenum frame significantly improving anti-squat behavior

ï New topology-optimized die-cast aluminum swingarm providing optimal rigidity and low weight

ï New 250cc DOHC engine providing class-leading torque and peak power

ï New 450cc SOHC engine providing class-leading performance and low weight

ï New Easy Shift sensor providing seamless up-shifting

ï High-performance Brembo hydraulic clutch system

ï New aluminum-polyamide hybrid subframe construction providing specifically calculated rigidity and advanced durability 

ï New WP XACT 48 mm front forks with AER technology offer more progressive end-of-stroke damping 

ï New WP XACT rear shock design with CFD-optimized main piston and tool-free adjusters

ï New multifunctional map switch, which also activates the Easy Shift, Traction- and Launch Control

ï New Rockstar Energy Husqvarna Factory Racing graphics

ï Factory Racing CNC-machined triple clamps with adjustable offset [20 – 22 mm]

ï Factory wheel set with D.I.D DirtStar rims and black anodized CNC-machined hubs

ï New polyamide composite skid plate for advanced protection and durability

ï New polyamide composite front brake disc guard for added protection

ï Mechanical Factory holeshot device as standard

ï Soft, grey ODI lock-on grips

ï GUTS Factory high-grip seat cover

ï Premium-quality ProTaper handlebar and bar pad

ï Electric starter powered by a lightweight Li-Ion 2.0 Ah battery

Features and benefits

Frame

The hydro-formed, laser-cut and robot-welded frame is expertly crafted. Constructed with specifically calculated parameters of longitudinal and torsional flex, the frame provides exceptional rider feedback, energy absorption and straight-line stability. Additionally, the frame features forged brackets for mounting the newly designed polyamide skid plate fitted as standard on the Rockstar Editions.

Rotational masses in the frame and the forged steering head connection have been repositioned. Together with the new shock mounting, which is no longer connected to the main tube, the anti-squat of the chassis has been significantly improved. Also, the wall thickness of the frame has been optimized to achieve improved reliability and specific rigidity in high stress areas such as the steering head and the shock mounts. Parallel frame mounts (same position on left and right sides) improve chassis flex characteristics, while stability characteristics remain unrivalled.

Another highlight of the new frame topology is that the footrest mounting positions have been moved inwards, resulting in less susceptibility to hooking in deep ruts or when scrubbing jumps. The overall size of the all-new footrests has been increased, designed with the help of state-of-the-art computational fluid dynamics (CFD). The new one-piece steering head seal allows easier mounting in case of replacement or service and offers improved reliability. 

The frame of the Rockstar Editions is finished off in a premium black fine-structured powder coating. The standard frame protectors feature a new and improved topology, guaranteeing superior protection, durability, and advanced grip in any condition. Mounted with four screws, using the integral frame brackets, the newly designed polyamide composite skid plate offers superior protection against dirt and hard impacts on the frame and engine.

ï Specifically engineered longitudinal rigidity → exceptional rider feedback, energy absorption and stability

ï Repositioned rotational masses and new shock mounting → significantly improved anti-squat of chassis

ï Topology-optimized frame wall thickness for specific rigidity and improved reliability in high-stress areas (e.g., steering head, shock mount)

ï New parallel frame mounts (same position on left and right side) for improved flex characteristics

ï Footrest mounting position moved inwards for reduced risk of hooking in deep ruts or when scrubbing

ï New, service friendly one-piece steering head seal → easier mounting, improved reliability 

ï Durable powder coated finish with standard frame protectors and composite skid plate

Polyamide-reinforced aluminum subframe

Using 60% polyamide and 40% aluminum, the two-piece subframe has a total weight of just 3.9 lb (1.8 kg). With the help of computational dynamics, specific rigidity was engineered into the light and robust subframe, delivering outstanding handling and rider comfort.

The lower subframe spars and frame mounts are made from cast aluminum profiles to guarantee robustness and reliability where needed. The upper subframe is made from injection-molded polyamide, enabling specific flex characteristics and allowing a lightweight construction.

ï New topology-optimized polyamide/aluminum hybrid construction

ï Lower subframe spars and frame mounts made from (cast) aluminum profiles → extremely robust and reliable (no weld joints)

ï Upper subframe made from injection-molded polyamide → specific rigidity and flex benefit handling and comfort

Swingarm 

The new hollow die-cast aluminum swingarm is designed to offer optimal stiffness and reliability at the lowest possible weight. The topology has been optimized for optimal rigidity, while an improved casting process reduces weight by approximately 190 g. In order to optimize and match the new chassis flex characteristics, a new 22 mm rear axle is fitted. 

Additionally, the chain guard and chain slider have been completely redesigned, resulting in improved durability and less susceptibility to hooking on external objects. This new design will help reduce dirt build up around the swingarm and chain guard, especially in extreme muddy conditions.

Chain adjustment markings are also visible from above to make for simpler adjustment.

ï New die-cast swingarm → topology-optimized for optimal rigidity

ï Improved casting process for reduced weight → 190 g less than previous generation

ï New 22 mm rear axle optimized to match chassis flex characteristics

ï Newly designed chain guard and chain slider 

o Transitions aligned with swingarm surface, spring-steel mounted for improved durability

ï Overall, less susceptible to hooking on external objects


WP XACT front fork with AER technology

The 48 mm split air fork features a capsulated air spring and pressurized oil chamber for progressive and consistent damping. Oil and air bypasses reduce pressure peaks and, in combination with a midvalve damping system, the fork provides exceptional feedback and rider comfort. A new hydrostop improves bottoming resistance through more progressive damping force in the last 40 mm of travel. Additionally, rebound is also reduced leading to the fork being lower on initial acceleration after a hard landing. A redesigned fork protection ring increases protection against dirt intrusion.

Settings are easily adjusted via a single air-pressure preload valve, as well as via easy access click adjusters for compression and rebound. Additionally, the air pump needed to adjust the fork's air pressure is provided as standard. 

ï WP XACT front fork → 48 mm air type with split damping function

ï Midvalve damping system → exceptional damping and consistent performance

ï Capsulated air spring and pressurized oil chamber → progressive and consistent damping

ï New hydrostop in fork legs → improved bottoming resistance and reduced rebound

o More progressive damping in last 40 mm of travel (total 310 mm) → previous generation hydrostop was only effective in last 10 mm of travel

o Reduced rebound → fork stays lower on initial acceleration after hard landing

ï Easy access clicker dials → simple and fast clicker settings

ï Redesigned fork protection rings → increased protection against dirt intrusion

CNC-machined triple clamps

Made from high-grade aluminum, the CNC-machined Factory Racing triple clamps feature optimally tuned steering stem stiffness, perfect alignment of the fork tubes and precise geometry of the fork clamps to ensure highly responsive and smooth fork action. Maximum gains in handling are provided by simple offset adjustment of 20 mm or 22 mm.

Newly designed, topology-optimized handlebar mounts provide increased grip surface for less handlebar twist at the same weight as the previous generation. Additionally, they allow for both rubber-damped and fixed mounting providing customizable handlebar flex.

ï Rubber-damped → less vibration, less precise front-end feel (OE)

ï Fixed → increased vibration, more precise front-end feel 

The front number plate integrates a triple clamp protector which covers the lower triple clamp and protects it from wear caused by roost.

ï CNC-machined aluminum with anodized surface → finest quality and reliability 

ï Perfect clamping and alignment → smooth fork action

ï New, topology-optimized handlebar mounts → increased grip surface for less handlebar twist, same weight as previous generation

ï Rubber damping on top clamp → reduced vibration, increased comfort

ï Adjustable handlebar position → adjustable ergonomics

WP XACT rear shock 

An all-new design results in a rear shock with 15 mm less overall length and 100 g less weight compared to the previous generation, while keeping the rear wheel travel unchanged at 300 mm. The shock is matched to a revised linkage system with a new geometry to deliver the same progression as before but with the greatest possible traction and absorption. Combined with the new frame geometry, it improves the ground clearance of the linkage and is therefore less susceptible to damage when bottoming out.

The new, computational fluid dynamics (CFD) optimized main piston in the shock improves initial comfort and provides strong hold-up. Differently sized flow holes allow the shims to open more easily and reduce the overall stress of oil flow and pressure on the shims. Reduced weight also means less moving mass, resulting in lower forces on the main piston.

A fully hand-adjustable dual compression control concept allows high- and low-speed settings to be changed by hand. Together with the newly designed rebound adjuster, which is hand or tool adjustable, riders are now able to adjust their shock settings without tools and without the help of a mechanic at the racetrack.

On top of the tool-free setting adjustment possibilities, a new preload adjuster is introduced bringing increased resistance to dirt intrusion. A new two-piece spring retainer allows for quick mounting without splitting the shock.

With its low-friction SKF linkage seals, the WP XACT rear shock provides advanced damping characteristics for unsurpassed traction and energy absorption. A pressure balance inside the shock ensures consistent damping, resulting in superior rider comfort and feel. 

ï New lightweight, compact rear shock design with 15 mm reduced overall length 

o MY22 → 470 mm / MY23 → 455mm | rear wheel travel unchanged → 300 mm

o Reduced weight results in less moving mass → 100 g lighter design results in lower forces on bearings

ï New CFD-optimized main piston increases initial comfort and guarantees strong hold-up

ï Improved ground clearance, lower risk of damage in extreme bottoming-out situations

ï New dual compression control allows high- and low-speed settings to be adjusted by hand 

ï New rebound adjuster allows changing setting by hand or tool 

ï Reworked preload adjuster with increased dirt intrusion resistance and quick mounting concept

ï Low-friction SKF linkage seals → refined rear shock response for advanced damping characteristics

ï Pressure balance inside the shock body → consistent damping

ï Two-piece spring retainer allows for quick mounting and assembly of preload adjuster and shock

Brembo hydraulic clutch

The high-performance Brembo hydraulic clutch system guarantees even wear, near maintenance-free operation and perfect modulation in every condition. It means that play is constantly compensated so that the pressure point and function of the clutch remain identical in cold or hot conditions, as well as over time. Countless hours of race-focused testing have proven the exceptional reliability of the high-quality, Italian-made Brembo hydraulic system. 

ï Brembo hydraulic clutch system → perfect modulation and outstanding reliability in every condition

Brakes 

The highest level of quality is guaranteed with class-leading Brembo calipers and controls. The 260 mm floating front and 220 mm wave rear discs deliver superior stopping power, instilling confidence in all conditions. A new polyamide composite front disc protector is fitted as standard for added protection.

ï Brembo brake calipers and high-performance discs → superior stopping power with greater control and confidence

ï New polyamide composite front disc protector → added protection and minimal weight

ProTaper handlebar 

The ProTaper handlebar is second to none for function and style. Manufactured to exacting standards, the handlebar features class-leading fatigue resistance at a minimal weight. The handlebar bend further increases comfort with an optimal pressure point on the rider’s hands. 

ï ProTaper handlebar → class-leading function and style

ï Husqvarna bend → optimal comfort

Grips and throttle assembly

The ODI lock-on grip on the left side does not require gluing, while on the right, the vulcanized grip features an innovative integrated throttle mechanism. The assembly has easy free-play adjustment and, by changing a cam, throttle progression can be altered. The ODI lock-on grips come standard in a softer, grey compound on the Rockstar Editions.

ï Throttle assembly and ODI grips → easily alter throttle progression; easy grip mounting without glue

Footrests

The all-new, CFD designed footrests offer a bigger surface for boot soles while being less susceptible to hooking on deep ruts, take-offs when scrubbing or track barriers. The result is better control of the bike in all conditions. This was achieved by a new, narrower mounting concept integrated in the frame design which also reduces weight.

ï New, topology-optimized, die-cast footrests → reduced weight and less susceptible to dirt build-up

ï Footrest mount integrated in frame → narrower profile is less susceptible to hook on deep ruts

Map select switch, traction and launch control

Designed for easy and intuitive operation, the new map select switch comes as standard on the Rockstar Edition. It activates traction and launch control, selects between two engine maps (aggressive/smooth) and activates the Easy Shift feature. Map 1 is the standard map for linear, predictable power, while Map 2 is an aggressive map for added throttle response and more explosive power output. 

The new Easy Shift function (upwards only) can be activated or deactivated via the map select switch. The function works only when upshifting, interrupting the ignition for a fraction of a second. This allows upshifting while the throttle is fully opened without the use of the clutch lever. A sensor on the shift drum registers the force from the shift lever, sends the signal to the ECU and the ignition timing is interrupted. To prevent unintended shifts and false neutrals, the function is only active from second to fifth gears. 

With the engine at idle, launch control is engaged by pressing the traction control and Easy Shift switch simultaneously. Both symbols will start flashing to indicate the launch control is active. This function limits the amount of power to the rear wheel, improving traction and preventing loss of control under hard acceleration. Once the rider shifts up a gear, the launch control will deactivate automatically. Additionally, the Easy Shift function is deactivated while launch control mode is engaged. 

Traction control is engaged by a switch marked ‘TC’ and functions by analyzing throttle input from the rider and the rate at which engine RPM increases. If the RPM increases too quickly, the engine management system (EMS) registers a loss of grip and reduces the amount of power to the rear wheel ensuring maximum traction. This is a distinct advantage in wet or muddy conditions.

ï Newly designed handlebar map select switch → alters engine characteristics according to conditions and rider preference

ï New Easy Shift function → clutch-free upshifting

ï Traction control → optimal traction in all conditions

ï Launch control → maximum traction for perfect starts

Start/stop switch

The new combined start/stop switch on right side of handlebar allows for easy, intuitive starting and stopping of the engine.

Engine management system (EMS)

The Keihin EMS is specifically designed to be smaller, lighter and faster at processing data. It integrates launch control for perfect starts, selectable engine maps via the traction control switch on the handlebar as well as the Easy Shift function. Combined with the gear sensor, power delivery is tailored for each gear.

A new rollover sensor (ROS) cuts the ignition in case of extreme crashes, adding another level of safety to the new generation of Husqvarna motocross machines. Additionally, the new hour meter now comes with an integrated FI status LED and a fuel level indicator.

ï Keihin EMS → small, light and faster at processing engine data for more efficient engine management

ï New rollover sensor (ROS) → automatic cutting of ignition in extreme crashes

ï New hour meter with integrated FI status LED and fuel level indicator

ï Gear sensor → specific engine maps for each gear

44 mm throttle body

The Rockstar Edition models feature a 44 mm Keihin throttle body. The injector is positioned to ensure the most efficient flow into the combustion chamber, and to ensure optimal throttle response the throttle cable is mounted directly without a linkage providing more immediate throttle response and feel.

ï Throttle body → 44 mm, injector positioned for optimal flow, more immediate throttle response thanks to direct cable mounting

Exhaust system

The Rockstar Edition exhaust systems are expertly designed to deliver leading performance for the least possible weight. The header pipe features a flow-designed resonance chamber integrated into the header pipe. The header pipe is designed and manufactured in two pieces to be as compact as possible. The position of the join allows it to be removed without having to remove the rear shock. Further innovation allows for a short, compact silencer without increased noise levels. The silencer is crafted from lightweight aluminum and is stylishly finished in a black coating that highlights its premium quality.

ï Compact exhausts → lightweight and engineered for optimal performance

ï Header pipe mounted directly onto engine mount for improved serviceability

ï Header join position → removal of exhaust without removing rear shock

Electric start and Li-Ion battery

To deliver the benefit of an easy electric starting system, a Li-Ion 2.0 Ah battery is fitted to the Rockstar Edition models. The Li-Ion battery weighs approximately 2.2 lb (1 kg) less than a conventional lead/acid battery, so the convenience of electric starting is delivered while minimizing overall weight.

ï Electric starter → easy starting when time is critical

ï Li-Ion battery → lightweight, 1 kg lighter than a conventional battery

Integrated cooling system and radiators 

The radiators are expertly crafted by WP using high-strength aluminum. CFD optimization is used to channel air through the radiators more efficiently and provide optimal cooling in any condition. The cooling system is integrated into the frame allowing for improved cooling by channeling coolant through the frame while eliminating the need for additional hoses. A large center tube running through the frame reduces the pressure at this point in the system allowing for a more consistent coolant flow and now includes an internal thermostat for added reliability.

Additionally, the radiators are mounted close to the center of gravity for improved handling agility. 

ï Integrated cooling → maximum efficiency in minimum space

ï New bayonet closure radiator caps

ï WP radiators → efficient for optimal cooling

ï Large central tube → consistent coolant flow

Fuel tank 

The new 1.9 gallon (7.2 liter) polythene fuel tanks incorporate a threaded filler cap and an integrated fuel pump on the Rockstar Edition models. A new one-piece fuel pump with integrated filter provides improved fuel supply and allows the tank to be emptied further at low fuel levels. The external fuel line is specifically positioned to make it less exposed and susceptible to damage.

ï New 1.9 gallon (7.2 liter) polythene fuel tanks → larger capacity for extended running times

ï New one-piece fuel pump and filter for improved fuel supply → tank can be emptied further at low fuel levels

ï External fuel line routing → less exposed and susceptible to damage

Airbox and tool-less air filter access

The CFD optimized airbox is designed with precisely positioned inlet ducts to prevent air deformation and ensure maximum airflow and filter protection. The air filter is easily accessed, without tools, by removing the left side panel. Easy maintenance is guaranteed by the Twin Air filter element and filter cage design, featuring a simple fail-proof mounting system for safe and accurate filter installation.

ï CFD optimized airbox → improved air flow and maximized filter protection

ï Intuitive filter mounting system → safe and accurate protection against dirt

ï Tool-less filter access → quick and easy maintenance

ï High-flow airbox cover in the by-pack → added customizability of the engine response

Factory wheel set

Black high-strength anodized DirtStar rims by D.I.D are laced to high quality black anodized CNC-machined hubs, using lightweight spokes and black anodized aluminum nipples to offer maximum weight savings and optimized handling and stability in the most extreme motocross conditions.

ï Lightweight but strong and reliable construction → minimal unsprung weight

Tires

Dunlop GEOMAX MX33 Motocross tires featuring the proven ‘block-within-a-block’ design for more progressive cornering and superior grip are fitted as standard. 

ï Developed in top-level AMA Supercross and Motocross → enhanced handling, cornering and steering feel 

ï Wide range of application including sand, mud, loose surface, and hard pack

ï Increased durability and crack resistance through an innovative rubber compound

Bodywork

The Rockstar Edition models feature bodywork which clearly showcases Husqvarna Motorcycles progressive approach to off-road motorcycles and striking black-and-white graphics stylishly adorn the Swedish-inspired design. 

An improved rider triangle for better knee contact, especially when riding in the standing position, inspires confidence for riders of every ability and enables them to perform at the highest level for extended periods of time. The slim contact surfaces on the bodywork allow the rider to more easily move the bike around on track, and improve the overall handling and agility of the bike. 

The flat seat profile, combined with the race engineered GUTS high-grip seat cover, deliver superior control in all conditions. A recessed pocket under the seat, just above the airbox, allows gripping and lifting of the bike.

The graphics of the all-new Rockstar Editions closely resemble the look of Husqvarna’s Factory race bikes for the 2022 season. Sponsor logos and graphic design elements are implemented using durable in-mold technology. A high-quality factory race look is guaranteed, even after hours of intense riding.

ï Progressive bodywork → distinctive looks, modern design and graphics

ï Improved rider triangle for better knee contact, especially when riding in the standing position

ï Additional contact surface → allows for improved gripping and easier movement of the bike 

ï Recessed grip pockets → allowing better grip to lift the bike

ï Seat → flat seat profile and high-grip Factory seat cover for exceptional comfort and control in all conditions

FC 250 Rockstar Edition

Engine

The newly designed FC 250 Rockstar Edition engine is tilted 2° backwards and therefore comes with a repositioned sprocket which is 3 mm lower compared to the previous generation. The total engine height has been reduced by 8 mm to improve mass centralization and reduce weight (approx. 60 g). 

Added service markers on the engine (▲) clearly show where to use washers, making maintenance and service easier than in the past.

All major components and shaft arrangements are carefully designed and placed to best suit the performance and handling characteristics of the overall package, and an added benefit of this new design is improved anti-squat behavior from the whole chassis.

The 250cc engine is not only light at 57.5 lb (26.11 kg) but also remarkably powerful with reworked midrange. 

ï New engine design → light and compact for optimized mass centralization

o Engine tilted 2° backwards with repositioned sprocket (3 mm lower)

o Improved anti-squat chassis behavior

ï Engine height reduced by 8 mm for improved mass centralization  reduced weight (approx. 60 g)

ï Low-friction design → reduces overall drag and vibration

ï Outstanding high-revving performance engine → enhanced midrange 

ï Improved serviceability of engine internals with added service markers

Cylinder head

The fully redesigned DOHC cylinder head features finger followers with a DLC (diamond like carbon) coating resulting in minimal friction and optimal performance. These actuate large titanium valves (32.5 mm intake, 27.5 mm exhaust) which at the 14,000 rpm rev limit open and close multiple times every second introducing fuel/air mixture to the carefully designed combustion chamber to deliver efficient and optimal power throughout the rev-range.

The new 27.5 mm exhaust valve is a result of the new bore/stroke ratio, delivering an optimized gas flow. Valve timings have been adapted to the new valve measurements, working in perfect harmony with the redesigned camshaft.

For improved serviceability and maintenance work within the engine, the redesigned adjustment bush bridge is screwed and increases stiffness. Also, the head gasket comes with a new ‘stopper design’, reducing sealing gap oscillations caused by gas force. 

ï Fully redesigned cylinder head → improved durability and serviceability

ï Finger followers with DLC coating → reduce friction and guarantee optimal performance

ï Large titanium valves (32.5 mm intake, 27.5 mm exhaust) with new 27.5 mm exhaust valve → optimized gas flow with revised bore/stroke ratio

ï Redesigned camshaft → adapted valve timing to new valve measurements

ï New adjustment bush bridge increasing stiffness and improving serviceability (screwed design)

ï New cylinder head gasket with stopper design → reducing sealing gap oscillations caused by gas force

Cylinder and piston

The new 81 mm bore cylinder houses a forged bridged-box-type piston made by CP with an extremely light weight of only 150 g. Both the cylinder and piston are professionally engineered from high-strength aluminum resulting in outstanding performance and reliability. The stroke has been adapted to 48.5 mm and the compression ratio has been increased to 14.5:1 for added torque and peak performance. 

Thanks to the CFD optimized combustion chamber, the inlet port could be smaller in section resulting in improved engine responsiveness.

ï New 81 mm bore and 48.5 mm stroke (MY22 = 78/52.3 mm)

ï Larger 81 mm bore and larger diameter exhaust valves → high-revving, quick response

ï CFD optimized combustion chamber → smaller inlet port for improved engine responsiveness

ï Compression ratio increased to 14.5:1 → greater torque and peak power 

ï Forged bridged-box-type piston → high performance and reliability

Crankshaft

The crankshaft is designed to offer the best possible performance while being perfectly positioned in the engine cases to centralize oscillating masses for optimal handling. The plain big-end bearing features two force-fitted bearing shells ensuring maximum reliability and durability, guaranteeing long service intervals of 100 hours. 

ï Plain big-end bearing with force-fitted bearing shells → increased durability and service intervals

ï Friction bearing on the counter-balancer shaft → increased durability

Crankcases 

The FC 250 Rockstar Edition engine is designed with mass centralization and weight reduction as main criteria. As a result, the crankcases have been redesigned to house the internal components of the engine in the perfect positions to achieve the ideal center of gravity while adding the least possible weight. Engine mounting points are the same as on the FC 450 engine. 

The casings are manufactured using a high-pressure die-cast production process, resulting in thin wall thickness while retaining exceptional reliability. 

ï Light and compact crankcases → optimized mass centralization

ï Redesigned engine mounting points (as on FC 450 Rockstar Edition) 

ï High-pressure die-cast production process → thin walls for reduced weight while maintaining strength

Gearbox

Produced by Pankl Racing Systems, the new 5-speed gearbox is designed to be extremely light and durable while featuring a 250 cc-specific ratio (24:72). A redesign of the shift shaft reduces the operating forces required for gear changes. A new Easy Shift sensor is positioned on the shift drum, allowing clutchless upshifts. The function can be activated/deactivated via the new QS marked button on the map select switch, located on the left side of the handlebar.

The shift fork has a low-friction coating for smoother shifting, while the new gear lever is designed to prevent dirt build-up and ensure perfect gear selection in all conditions. An advanced gear sensor allows for specific engine maps delivering the best possible performance in each gear.

ï New 5-speed gearbox by Pankl Racing Systems → 250-optimised transmission ratio (24:72) and exceptional durability and improved shifting

ï Redesigned shift shaft → reduced operating force required for gear changes

ï Integrated Easy Shift sensor positioned on the shift drum allows clutchless upshifts → seamless shifting function can be activated/deactivated with map select switch

ï Integrated gear sensor → specific engine maps for each gear

DS clutch 

The FC 250 features a DS (Diaphragm Steel) clutch. The exclusive characteristics of this system include a single diaphragm steel pressure plate instead of traditional coil springs. 

The clutch basket has been revised and features the same design as on the FC 450, adapted to the new transmission ratio. It is a single-piece CNC-machined steel component that allows the use of thin steel liners and contributes to the compact design of the engine. 

ï New clutch basket with same design as FC 450 → adapted for new transmission ratio

ï DS clutch → lightweight with consistent modulation and exceptional durability



















FC 450 Rockstar Edition



















Engine










The FC 450 Rockstar Edition’s SOHC engine is the perfect example of the advanced engineering techniques used by Husqvarna Motorcycles, offering massive peak power with an overall weight of just 59 lb (26.8 kg), equaling a weight reduction of approximately. 300 g compared to the previous generation. 

Mass centralization is key to the engine design, enabling chassis engineers to position the engine closer to the center of gravity for greatly improved handling and maneuverability. This was achieved by tilting the engine 2° backwards which meant positioning the sprocket 3 mm lower. Together with the benefits of mass centralization and reduced weight, the anti-squat behavior of the chassis was significantly improved.

Attention was paid to the serviceability of the new FC 450 Rockstar Edition engine. Drain bosses for fluids and added service markers on the engine (▲) clearly show where to use washers, making maintenance and service easier than before.

ï Engine tilted 2° backwards with repositioned sprocket (3mm lower) → improved mass centralization and improved anti-squat behavior

ï Peak performance and minimal weight → added midrange and improved handling 

ï Improved serviceability of engine internals → added service markers and drain bosses for liquids

Cylinder head

The redesigned SOHC cylinder head is incredibly compact and lightweight, with a short profile and the camshaft located as close to the center of gravity as possible. Parallel frame mounts significantly improve handling and agility.

Lightweight valves are actuated via a rocker arm and feature timing specifically designed to deliver precise levels of torque and throttle response. The diameter of the intake valves is 40 mm, while at the exhaust it is 33 mm. A new valve cover reduces the number of mounting screws (only two needed) and a single oil-spray jet guarantees efficient cooling while keeping weight low. 

A new fine punched cam chain, low-friction chain guides and the low-friction DLC rocker arm coating offers optimum efficiency, reliability, and durability. Attention was paid to maintenance tasks with lock positions for the cam chain to improve the serviceability of the valve train.

ï Redesigned SOHC cylinder head → more compact design, parallel frame mounts and camshaft closer to center of gravity

ï New lightweight valve cover → only two mounting screws and one oil-spray jet for cooling

ï New fine punched cam chain adding durability

ï DLC coating and low-friction chain guides → optimum efficiency, reliability, and durability

ï Improved serviceability of valve train → lock positions for cam chain

Cylinder and piston 

The lightweight aluminum cylinder is an engineering masterpiece, featuring a 95 mm bore. The CP bridged-box-type piston features anodized annular grooves, adding durability and longer service intervals while weighing only 327g. The compression ratio has been increased to 13.1:1 for improved peak performance.

ï Lightweight aluminum cylinder → 95 mm bore / 63.4 mm stroke

ï Lightweight, high-performance CP forged bridged-box-type piston → reduced oscillating masses

ï Increased compression to 13.1:1 → improved peak performance

ï Anodized annular groove → added durability and longer service intervals

Crankshaft

The inertia produced by the crankshaft has been carefully calculated to deliver optimal traction and ride-ability from the powerful 450cc engine. The crankshaft is specifically positioned to harness the rotational mass at the ideal center of gravity resulting in a lightweight, agile-handling feel. A plain big-end bearing comprising of two force-fitted bearing shells ensure maximum reliability and durability, guaranteeing long service intervals of 100 hours. 

ï Crankshaft position → ideal center of gravity, improved handling

ï Plain big-end bearing and force-fitted bearing shells → increased durability and service intervals

Crankcases 

The crankcases are designed to arrange the shafts and engine internals in the ideal positions to offer the best-possible handling. Additionally, the position of the clutch shaft keeps the clutch above the oil level resulting in decreased drag and increased efficiency. A new steel oil pump gear and repositioned oil jets increase the overall oil pressure, resulting in increased resistance against overheating and improved durability.

High-pressure die-cast production processes keep overall weight to a minimum, resulting in thin wall thickness while retaining reliability. 

ï Design → optimized mass centralization and increased efficiency

ï New steel oil pump gear and increased oil pressure → improved durability and resistance against overheating

ï High pressure die-cast production process → thin walls for reduced weight while maintaining strength

Gearbox

The redesigned lightweight 5-speed gearbox is produced by Pankl Racing Systems and ensures the highest level of durability and reliability. A weight-optimized shift shaft reduces the operating force required for gear changes, and the gearbox also features a revised transmission ratio (29:72). The new Easy Shift sensor is positioned on the shift drum, allowing clutchless upshifts. The function can be activated/deactivated via the new QS marked button on the map select switch, located on the left side on the handlebar.

The new gear lever features a design that prevents dirt build-up, and keeps the lever tip in its original position even in the toughest conditions. An advanced gear sensor selects a specific engine map tailored for each gear.

ï New 5-speed gearbox → revised transmission ratio (29:72) for smooth and precise shifting

ï Weight-optimized shift shaft → reduced operating force required for gear changes 

ï Integrated Easy Shift sensor positioned on the shift drum allows clutchless upshifts → seamless shifting function can be activated/deactivated with map select switch

ï Integrated gear sensor → specific engine maps for each gear

DDS clutch

The FC 450 Rockstar Edition features a revised DDS (Dampened Diaphragm Steel) clutch. The exclusive characteristics of this system include a single diaphragm steel pressure plate instead of traditional coil springs. It integrates a damping system for better traction and durability. The clutch basket is a single-piece CNC-machined steel component that allows the use of thin steel liners and contributes to the compact design of the engine. 

The main improvements include better clutch cooling from pressure lubrication, reducing clutch fade from high-stress usage while the clutch basket has been redesigned and adapted for the new 5-speed transmission.

ï DDS clutch → lightweight with consistent modulation and exceptional durability

ï Improved clutch cooling from pressure lubrication → reduced clutch fade from high stress

Redesigned clutch basket adapted for new 5-speed transmission ratio

Testing Terms: Engine/Suspension *Updated*

If you learning more about your motocross bikes and also getting the lingo down, there is some help for you below. Here are some common terms that we use within the R&D industry that can help you explain what your bike is doing to tuners. Even if you just want to sound cool when you’re talking to your buddies, these terms will make you look like a regular factory test guy.

Suspension:

Pitching: This word is used when the rider lets off the throttle and the weight of the motorcycle forces the front end down. This usually happens when there is a lot of engine braking or the fork is too soft. The 2021 YZ450F was notorious for having a lot of this pitching when coming into a corner. Pitching can upset the chassis balance and can cause some oversteer through area 1 and 2 of corners. Pitching can also mean that a certain bike can squat (shock) too much under throttle out of corners causing the bike to have too much movement fore and aft. Pitching can make the machine seem unstable and cause the rider to not set up properly for corners. 

Hold Up: Hold up is mostly used when the fork or shock is riding too low in the stroke. When a rider is asking for more hold up he is usually wanting a stiffer compression setting so the fork or shock isn't “blowing through”. 

Harsh: This term has got to be the worst feeling to a rider. A harsh feeling is when the suspension is either too soft or too stiff. Yes, it can actually be both! If the suspension is too stiff the rider will complain about a harsh or firm feel through the handlebars. This stiff/harsh feel is caused by the suspension not being able to use all of its stroke. If the harsh feel is coming from the stiff side, opening the compression or the rebound can help alleviate some of this feeling. If the harsh feeling is coming from a soft sensation it’s because the suspension is riding too low in the stroke. Riding too low in the stroke can cause a harsh feeling because you are now in the mid stroke where the valving starts to ramp up to get stiffer. By stiffening the suspension a little you are now stiffening the initial part of the stroke which can actually make your bike feel plusher because your machine is riding higher up in the stroke around the track. “Harsh” is a tricky term because the cause of the harsh feeling can be from a too soft or too stiff of a setting.

Plush: I have never been a huge fan of this term, but the word plush means soft or supple feeling. If I hit something at speed most riders want their bike to feel plush and not harsh. However be careful when using this term to suspension techs as they may want to set your suspension up too soft. Plush can also mean the same with frame feel. For example, the KX450 has a plusher feeling to its frame than the of the Honda CRF450R. I like to use the term “bump absorption” more than the word plush. When the Kawasaki KX450 hits a certain square edge at speed, it has a better bump absorption feel than the Honda CRF450R. Off-road riders look for that plush feeling because they have less jumps to deal with and can hit roots/bumps at higher speeds. A softer compression setting or a faster rebound setting usually leads to a plusher feel.

Crust: We can thank air forks for this term. I came up with this term when I was at home during thanksgiving and I was watching my wife make a french apple pie. I always liked the middle of the pie more than the crust, so it immediately made me think of air forks. In order to get to the gooey goodness of the pie, I have to break through the crust right? Well air forks are the same thing! The top of the stroke of almost any air fork is called the crust because it’s usually has a hard/harsh feel initially and then you have some comfort. The crust usually gives you some deflection and a harsh feeling through the handlebars on small chop. We use the word crust because air forks usually feel like you have to break through the stiff portion of the travel in order to get to the softer/more forgiving portion of the stroke. WP has improved the air fork feel over the years so let's hope they continue down the path of a less crusty initial stroke on their air forks.

Empty: This term can be used when talking about engine character or suspension feel. When talking suspension empty usually means there is not a lot of damping feel. If you say “I feel like my end stroke is empty”, it means that it blows through or simply doesn't have any damping feel.  

Rigidity Balance: Rigidity balance is an important term when testing any chassis. If the bike has a firm feel and its rigidity balance is too firm it could mean that it corners excellent, but feels very harsh and has deflection on rough/fast straights. If the rigidity balance is too soft the bike can have a wallow feeling when under throttle as well as give the rider less confidence on braking bumps because of its unpredictable feel. Rigidity balance is something that every manufacturer works a lot on when developing their machine. A bike has to corner with precision, but also have enough comfort in order to have good bump absorption. A machine that has great rigidity balance is a Kawasaki KX450 because it turns well and can hit bumps at speed with a consistent feel.   

Performance: Performance is a word we used in the testing world when a rider is looking to ride at a higher level as well as be able to push the motorcycle without having it be too soft. Getting a chassis or suspension package to have better performance is basically asking the tuner that you understand that you’ll sacrifice some comfort, in order to get a machine that you can slam into obstacles harder without getting blow through. Usually riders that are faster or heavier want a performance based setting so they can hit jumps as well as bumps at a faster rate. 

 Comfort: A comfort setting is something most vet riders want so they don’t feel every little bump on the track. A comfort setting usually involves a softer setting that moves more in the stroke, but also can bottom out when hitting bigger jumps or larger bumps at speed. The 2021 YZ450F’s suspension package is a great example of blending both performance and comfort together. 

 Blow Through: This usually happens when hitting bumps/jumps hard and the suspension just dives without much damping force feel. If your suspension feels like it’s blowing through then you need to try and get a stiffer setting through clickers or internally with valving.  

Vague: Vague is usually a term used by describing front wheel traction. Front wheel lean angle traction can feel vague when the fork setting is too stiff, have the wrong offset triple clamps, or if you have the wrong compound front tire. A vague feel means that you will be washing your front tire out under lean angle and the bike may have less of a contact patch. Running too much air in your tire can also give you a vague feel.

 Damping Feel: Damping feel or force is the feeling of the suspension when moving down. Damping feel is used when explaining to tuners that you either have a soft feeling and need more of a stiffer setting. Damping feel can also be helpful/used when asked if the action of the suspension is too fast or too slow. 

 Deflection: Deflection happens when either a suspension setting is too stiff or a chassis setting is too rigid. Deflection happens when your front or rear end hits a bump/square edge and your bike simply doesn't absorb it. It’s like a pinball bouncing around from some side to side and can cause you to roll the throttle off in a hurry. Deflection also causes you to have less contact patch and makes the bike feel less planted. Going to a softer setting with the suspension or chassis usually alleviates some of this feeling. 

Contact Patch: Contact patch is a feeling of how much tire is felt underneath you. Contact patch can be increased by running less air pressure in your tires, running a softer suspension setting, chassis setting and/or increasing/decreasing offset. I like using this term a lot with my evaluations because without the feeling of a wide contact patch it will feel like you are running bicycle tires on your dirt bike. Having a wide contact patch feel gives you more confidence to roll the throttle on sooner when exiting corners. 

Engine:

Empty: This term is shared with the suspension side of things as well, but when a rider says that at a certain point that his power feels empty, he could mean that it’s a little lean or it just feels flat. Empty refers to a feeling where there is no more pulling power, or the power just simply feels flat (not exciting). 

Dirty Feeling: When a machine has a dirty feel to it that usually means the ECU/jetting is rich. A dirty feel means that the bike sputters, coughs, misses, etc., and most of the time it is due to a rich setting. Getting a dirty feeling delivery can also mean that your air filter element is clogged. You should clean it.

Recovery: Recovery describes how quickly a rider can get back into the meat of the power when missing a shift or when the machine is being lugged. Recovery is important because it gives the rider the confidence to know that if they make a mistake, the machine can get back up in the RPM’s and move down the track in a quick manner.

Excitement: Excitement is usually the initial feeling of the crack of the throttle anywhere in the RPM range. The Honda CRF450R is known to have a lot of excitement down low, but that excitement can also be a handful when rolling  corners. If a machine doesn't have enough excitement it also can suffer from poor recovery. See what I did there?

Lethargic/Lazy: This term is used for a machine that revs heavy or is slow to rev/spool up. A rich feeling can cause bottom end to feel lethargic/lazy feeling. Lethatgic can also mean that you will have to use the clutch a lot to get the engine into the meat of the power. 

Pulling Power: Pulling power is similar to torque feel. Pulling power is usually felt when the machine is exiting the corner or when driving up hills. The initial pop out of the corner usually reveals how much pulling power a certain bike has.

RPM Response: RPM response is the initial crack of the throttle anywhere in the RPM range. Excitement and RPM response can share the same meaning at times except when talking about having a lazy feeling engine character. Having good RPM response in an engine is important because it can help the machine feel lighter and more flickable.

Bottom End: Bottom end delivery usually refers to the power feel once immediately out of corners or when getting off the gate.

Mid-Range: Mid-Range delivery usually refers to the power feeling once exited from the corner and the rider is starting to make his shift into third gear. Mid-range feeling can be experienced in any gear but is only categorized by throttle position in the production testing world.

Top End: Top end is felt when a rider is full throttle and is accelerating down a straight. Top end can be felt in any gear but is most recognized in third and fourth gears on a moto track. How far the bike can pull each gear is usually categorized as top end.

Over-Rev: Over-rev is a term used by most testers as a sign of when the engine falls off its peak horsepower/top end. Having an engine with good over-rev means that the engine can pull each gear farther down the track without having to shift up a gear. Having an engine with a short over-rev means that the engine likes to be short shifted (up to the next gear early in the RPM range) and can't pull its gears very long.

Connectivity: This term is used when a test rider is trying to explain the feeling he has from this throttle hand to the rear wheel. Does his throttle and rear wheel feel connected to the ground or does the bike break loose or slide out? Good connectivity to the rear wheel allows for an easier-to-ride machine and can help the chassis settle down on rough tracks.

2022 450 MX Baseline Settings

Most of the 2022 models haven’t changed, but there are some updates to a couple machines as well as a couple changes within our baseline settings chart for the 22 models. Just like with race settings, some of these production settings have evolved and these are the latest and greatest for the 22 450 MX’ers.

Kawasaki KX450:

The stock KX450 fork is too soft on de-cel and needs more hold up. These settings will help achieve this and leave you with enough comfort where your hands will not be screaming for mercy. 

Fork: 

 Spring Rate 5.1 N/m Spring (5.0 N/m is stock) *If B level rider and over 200 pounds 5.2 N/m springs are also a great option*

 Oil Level: Standard

 Compression:11-12 clicks out (12 clicks out with 5.2 spring)

 Rebound Range: 10-11 clicks out

 Fork Height: 2-3 mm

 Shock:

Sag: 104-105mm

 Spring Rate: 54 N/m (190 pounds or over, try 56 N/m)

 Low Speed Compression: 16 clicks out

 High Speed Compression: 1 1/8 turns out

 Rebound: 10-11 out

Yamaha YZ450F:

Suspension: If you’re sticking with stock valving the 2022 Yamaha YZ450F’s suspension settings are stiffer this year so pitching should be less of a problem rolling off throttle. Once broken in the suspension does get a little softer, but keeps the comfort we all know from a KYB/Yamaha set up. The shock is a little stiff on high speed compression so we do recommend backing that off a little bit so the rear can squat a little more coming out of corners. The comfort that the KYB SSS fork has is unmatched and the track toughness it provides makes your life so much less stressful on set up. This setting below will work for most riders ranging from 160-195 pounds with no gear.

Fork: 

Height: 4mm

Compression: 10 clicks out

Rebound: 8 clicks out

Shock: 

Sag: 104mm

Low Speed Compression: 10 clicks out

High Speed Compression: 1 turn out

Rebound: 13 clicks out 

Honda CRF450R:

The stock suspension might be too soft for you if you’re anywhere over 180 pounds. Honda has a 5.0 N/m fork spring that is adequate for most, but the valving is still slightly on the softer side to aid in chassis rigidity. Out back the 54 N/m shock spring is also soft, so if you’re looking for a quick band aid to make your Honda CRF450R better, without going to a re-valve, going a spring rate up on each end has helped me feel more secure on high speed tracks, as well as soft bumpy tracks (this is only good for riders north of 180 pounds). Bringing both ends up a little in the stroke (with the heavier spring rates) has given me more front/rear wheel traction as well a Honda that corners better without over-steering. Going up in spring rate does help with track toughness and in most cases a straighter handling CRF450R. If you’re not into spending more money on a re-valve at this time, simply get some heavier springs and try this setting: 

 Fork: 

 Spring Rate: 5.1 N/m (One 5.2N/m spring in one side)

 Height: Flush-2mm

 Comp: 12 out

 Rebound: 10 out

Shock:

 Spring Rate: 56 N/m 

 L/S Comp: 12 clicks out

 H/S Comp: 2 3/4 clicks out

 Rebound: 10 clicks out

Sag: 106mm

KTM 450 SX-F:

 The recommended settings were 10.7 bar or 155psi of air in the fork, compression at 12 out and rebound at 18 out. This setting was, as suspected, too soft for my liking and after testing at a few tracks, I found a base line setting of:

Fork:

Air Pressure: 11.0 bar or 162 psi of air

Compression at 13 clicks

Rebound 15 out. 

*With Factory Hard Parts Triple Clamps or Ride Engineering Split Clamps*

Height: 5mm

Air Pressure: 11.0 Bar

Compression: 12 clicks out

Rebound: 13 clicks out

Shock:

Sag: 102mm

L/S Comp: 8 out

H/S Comp: 1.5 out

Rebound: 12 out

Husqvarna FC450:

With this setting I had no issues bottoming on hard landings as well as  bump absorption/hold up/traction were very good even at GH late in the day. 

The shock was a bit more difficult to find a great setting for, but that is due to the shock spring being slightly soft (undersprung for my level of riding). The action of the shock wasn't bad, my issue was with a spring that is just simply too soft. The shock was riding too low in the stroke which caused a low squat in the apex of turns and a soft blow thru feeling on transitions, whoops, and hard landings. As I said this is easily fixed with a stiffer spring but when striving for a stock base line setting you do the best with what you have. I ended up going with 102mm of sag, high speed compression at 1/2 turn out, low speed compression at 8 out and rebound at 12 out. Now some of you may ask why I didn't go further in on compression and I did try that, but the action on acceleration chop/braking bumps suffered when things are closed off that much. The soft feeling on landings, whoops and turns was more manageable than the instability in choppy acceleration bumps or entering braking bumps at speed. Not the ideal trade off, but again if you have to make do until you get the correct spring rates or a revalve, these settings should work for you. At the end of the day this base line set up allowed me to get more comfortable at speed and gave me a direction of the areas I want to improve.

Fork (Stock Triple Clamp): 

Height: 5mm

Air Pressure: 11.0 Bars

Compression: 13-14 clicks out

Rebound: 13 clicks out

*With KTM Hard Parts Triple Clamps or Ride Engineering Split Clamps*

Height: 5mm

Air Pressure: 11.1 Bars

Compression: 15-16 clicks out

Rebound: 13 clicks out

Shock:

Sag: 102mm

Low Speed Compression: 10 clicks out

High Speed Compression: 1.25 out 

Rebound:  11 clicks out

Gas Gas MC450:

The 21 Gas Gas MC450 has a similar suspension feel to the KTM, but the chassis has slightly more compliancy so the setting that I came up with is only slightly slower moving than the KTM. This is a general happy spot for the other red machine: 

Fork (Stock Triple Clamp): 

Height: 5mm

Air Pressure: 11 Bar

Compression: 14 clicks out

Rebound: 11 clicks out

*With Factory Hard Parts Triple Clamps or Ride Engineering Split Clamps*

Height: 5mm

Air Pressure: 11 Bar

Compression: 11 clicks out

Rebound: 10 clicks out

Shock:

Sag: 103mm

Low Speed Compression: 10 clicks out

High Speed Compression: 1.5 out 

Rebound:  10 clicks out

2022 Husqvarna FC450 Baseline Settings/Top Mods

The Husqvarna FC450 is unchanged for 2022 besides some Brembo pieces that replaced the Magura ones (clutch/slave cylinder). The FC450 is one of the friendliest bikes in this class to ride, but to me needs to wake up a little down low to make this white stallion feel lighter. Sometimes what is on paper is not what is felt on the track so try these mods below to get some added power and comfort out of your FC450! 

Suspension: The factory fork and shock settings are soft for the average sized 450 rider (180 pounds) on the 2022 FC450 so we did go a little bit stiffer on air pressure and softer on compression settings, but have found improved results in comfort, not just performance. All three test riders (155, 170, 195 pounds) that tried this setting agreed that the bike/chassis was calmer on acceleration and de-cel bumps. This setting will give the Husqvarna better hold up as well as help the overall balance of the bike from feeling stinkbug coming into corners. Our 195 pound rider preferred a 48N/m shock spring with the recommended shock settings below.

Fork:

Air Pressure: 10.9 bar

Compression: 14-15 out

Rebound: 11 out

Fork Height: 5mm

Shock:

L/S Compression: 11-12 clicks out

H/S Compression: 1-3/4 turns out

Rebound: 12 clicks out

Sag: 104-105mm

Shock: (195 pounds and over)

Spring Rate: 48N/m

L/S Compression: 14 clicks out

H/S Compression: 2 turns out

Rebound: 13 clicks out

Sag: 104-105mm

Rider Triangle: The standard Pro Taper handlebar that comes on the FC450 is low and flat, but fits the Husqvarna’s cockpit very well for most. I did want more height from my bar when I stood up, so I went with a Pro Taper Race Team bend and this helped me get over the front of the bike more when standing. The Race Team bar worked well for riders from 5’8 to 6’1. The Race Team bend comes in a crossbar or crossbar-less style and is (W)810 (H)91 (R)49 (S)52. If you’re looking for a better stand up feel from your Husqvarna look for handlebar close to this measurement. If you do like the stock bar try cutting the bar down to 805mm instead of the longer/standard 811mm. This will help you corner.  

ECU Settings: The 2022 FC450 has a locked ECU box so getting inside to remap is not going to happen like it did two years ago. The good news is that the ECU is much cleaner and should NOT need to be remapped unless you need more power. In that case, you will need to go to a Vortex ECU mapped by Jamie at Twisted or Chad at XPR. Those are my two go to gentlemen to make usable power. Sure there are others out there, but these two guys made the most out of every Autrian bike that I have tested. If you are on a stock ECU, map 2 is my preferred standard map in most conditions as it comes on a little sooner and pulls slightly harder than map 1.

Gearing: The 2022 FC450 comes with a 13/49 gearing ratio. This gearing should be just fine for most tracks, but if you want a little more mid range engine recovery and free-er feeling shock on acceleration, a 14/52 gearing ratio works well. The 14/52 gearing will require a new chain length and I usually go with this gearing when riding tracks similar to Glen Helen (aka faster choppy tracks) to settle the rear end under load. 

Chassis: Aftermarket engine mounts are all the rage right now and some of you may not have the money to spend on a pair of engine mounts for your Husqvarna. I will say that I don’t feel like the Husqvarna’s chassis is stiff, but I have heard from other lighter riders that it can be at times, so I decided to play around with torque specs and came up with a 28Nm setting on each bolt for both engine hangers. This band aid will give you a more planted sensation when on throttle while leaning the FC450 through sweepers and fast straights. You will have to make sure that all engine mount bolts have blue Loctite to ensure they do not back out. You can also try torquing your swingarm pivot bolt to 95 Nm (instead of 100Nm) to help rear end traction out of corners. The downside to doing these mods is that the chassis will flex a little more, so if you’re riding deep tilled tracks this modification may be too “flexy” for some (especially when chopping throttle).

Rear Axle Block Kit: Going to a Works Connection axle block kit or Ride Engineering axle block kit will get rid of the fixed left axle block on the stock Husqvarna’s axle. This will help the rear end to move more freely under throttle and improve the shock’s comfort on acceleration chop. Rear wheel placement isn’t as crucial on the Husqvarna as it is on some other 450’s we have tested so if your rear wheel placement is somewhere in the middle of the axle block marks, that will be sufficient for these recommended suspension settings.

TD Exhaust Flange: The Twisted Development exhaust flanges are shaped differently than the stock OEM flange, which can change the engine character of the KTM 450 SX-F. I went through several during testing and found out a size/shape that can actually enhance the low to mid range power character. Compared to the stock piece the TD Performance flange will give you better throttle response through area 2-3 (mid to exit) of corners. Another advantage to me is that the TD flange helps pulling power out of corners as well and helps third gear lugability. The TD flange just helps the RPM’s pick up quicker, which in turn makes the KTM feel lighter when the track gets bumpy. There is no need to remap your ECU and it takes minutes to install.  

FMF 4.1 Muffler System: To me, FMF makes one of the best muffler systems for the FC450. There are some other companies that have other bikes dialed in more, but on the Husqvarna/KTM side, FMF has got it down. You will get more low to mid RPM response as well as more mid range pulling power. Top end is increased plus the over-rev is as good as stock. It is one of the few times that I was impressed because it was actually better than stock in almost all areas. The downside is that you must keep up on muffler packing (every 10-12 engine hours) because the FMF will blow out and that could damage your expensive titanium can. Did I mention that you will lose almost two pounds with this system? If you slap on spring forks you will be gaining almost three pounds. You can get most of that back down with a 4.1 Titanium FMF Muffler system.

2022 Husqvarna FC250 Suggested Settings/Mods

The 2022 Husqvarna FC250 has been in heavy circulation the past couple months and we have come across some settings to get you comfy as well as some mods that can help you get some more power out of the white stallion. 

TC Two-Stroke Air Filter Cage: This is the cheapest and easiest way to get more throttle response out of your FC 250. You will notice better throttle response through the low to mid RPM range by simply going to a TC two stroke cage with no backfire screen. Here is the part number you will need. P/N 5040601600

FMF 4.1 Full Muffler System: To me, FMF makes the best muffler system for the Husqvarna FC250. There are some other companies that have other bikes dialed in more, but on the Husqvarna, FMF has got it down. You will get more low to mid RPM response as well as more mid range pulling power. Top end is increased plus the over-rev is as good as stock. It is one of the few times that I was impressed because it was actually better than stock in almost all areas. The downside is that you must keep up on muffler packing (every 10-12 engine hours) because the FMF will blow out and that could damage your expensive titanium can. Did I mention that you will lose almost two pounds with the titanium 4.1 system? If you slap spring forks on your Husqvarna, you will be gaining almost three pounds. You can get most of that weight gain back down with a 4.1 Titanium FMF Muffler system.

Pro Taper Handlebars: But Keefer they come with Pro Taper’s! Yes, I know but now that PT offers the “Race Team bend” (810mm width, 91mm height, 49mm rise, and 52mm sweep), which is a little higher of a bend than the stock Husqvarna PT bar and is still a pretty straight. I do cut the Race Team bend down to 805mm as that is the happy medium for me and my 5’11 frame. The Pro Taper SX Race bar worked well for riders from 5’8 to 6’1 as well. Both bends come in a crossbar or crossbar-less style and the SX Race bend has a 800mm width, 87mm height, 54.5 rise, and 54mm sweep. If you’re looking for a better “stand up feel” from your FC250 look for handlebar close to these measurements.

Throttle Tube: There are a couple you can choose from here… If you’re looking for an aluminum throttle tube that is expensive, but helps the feel of your throttle, I recommend the ZRT throttle. This throttle tube makes the pull have almost zero drag and is a tough SOB. There is some set up/prep time to this throttle (cutting the right side of the handlebars), but it can help the pull over the long haul. If you’re more the plastic style tube type of rider, look at the Motion Pro Titan tube as it’s tough for a plastic tube and doesn’t have as much drag as the stock lock on style ODI grip/tube that comes on the stock FC’s. The stock plastic throttle has a lot of friction and gets tough to turn too quickly. 

Ride Engineering One Piece Bar Mount: The Ride Engineering One Piece Oversize Bar Mount has a one-piece top that is designed to resist bending much better than the stock bar mount. Precision machined from aircraft quality aluminum, there is also a 6mm difference between the forward and back mounting positions. Ride Engineering also machines their own stainless steel posts that prevent over tightening, unlike some other competing brands that DO NOT use quality posts. This bar mount has saved my son and I a couple times when we are out doing motor. He seems to crash a lot in corners and the stock mount on the FC250 just twists and bends easily.

Rear Axle/Axle Blocks: Going to a Works Connection Elite axle block kit or Ride Engineering axle block kit will get rid of the fixed left axle block on the stock KTM’s axle. This will help the rear end to move more freely under throttle and improve the shock’s comfort on acceleration chop. Both are great, but you will have to decide if you want a complete axle/axle block kit like Ride Engineering’s  or just the blocks themselves like WC’s.

Rear Brake Pedal Spring: Purchase a Honda CRF450R rear brake pedal spring with the rubber around the spring. The FC rear brake pedal spring vibrates and will break every 4-5 engine hours. Orrrrrrrrr. Get a Fasst Co rear brake return spring and be done with it! Fasst Co’s rear brake return spring offers tunable pedal resistance and a more controllable feel by placing the spring in compression instead of tension, minimizing the "on-off" feel of most rear brakes.

Fuel Filters: If you’re a FC owner, do yourself a favor and put a couple of these in your toolbox just in case. Fuel filters can get clogged on all FC’s and this can cause damage to your fuel pump or possibly not allow your bike to start properly.

Throttle Cables: If there is one thing that DOES NOT last on KTM’s/FC’s it’s the throttle cables. Every 20 hours or so I will have to replace the throttle cables to ensure that my throttle doesn’t feel hard or sticky when twisting. Originally I thought my throttle tube was dirty or maybe the right side of the handlebar had dirt on it, but I found out through a couple KTM mechanics, that the throttle cables simply wear out. You can’t lube them or clean them out as it will only make the throttle feel better for a short amount of time.  

Check All Spokes: KTM/FC spokes always come loose near the rim lock so make sure you pay attention to all the spokes after every ride. If you don’t check them constantly you will lose or break a couple. 

Check Engine Mounts/Swingarm Pivot Bolt: Always check the torx bolts that hold the top engine hangers on the bike. After break in, these will loosen up a bunch, so you might need some blue Loctite on the threads. After you do this, please continue to check these as they still back out from time to time. The torque spec on these bolts are important to the ride attitude of these FC’s. Also the FC come with frame guards and that means you will not know (until it’s too late) when your swingarm pivot bolt  backs out. Take off your frame guard and check pivot bolt regularly. While you’re at it, get the Acerbis frame guards as they last longer and have better grip than the stock ones. 

FI Indicator Light: The little FI indicator light bulb will fall out of the rubber casing as soon as you get past 10 hours. The best thing to do is put a little silicone inside the rubber casing, so the light bulb as well as the wire doesn’t flop around. 

Connector Behind Front Number Plate: If your FC or KTM is cutting out or maybe not starting, check behind the number plate for this connector. It could be unplugged or corroded from condensation. Hardwiring the wires/connecter is the best way to ensure that it doesn’t come unplugged. You can even using a two post connector instead of a four post as that can work as well. If you’re turning your handlebar to the right and your FC will not start, chances are it’s the starter wire being kinked or pulled too tight. Pull the sheathing away from the cables and inspect to see if it has come apart.

Suspension Settings:

RIDER WEIGHT: 150-185 POUNDS

Fork: 

Spring Rate: 10.7-10.8 bar

Height: 5mm

Compression: 12 clicks out 

Rebound: 9-10 clicks out

Shock:

Spring Rate: 42 N/mm

Spring Rate For 175 Pounds And Up: 45 N/mm

Sag: 102mm

High Speed Compression: 1.5 

Low Speed Compression: 9 clicks out

Rebound: 10 clicks out 

KTM 450/250 SX-F Electrical Problem Tip

IS YOUR KTM 450/250 SX-F HAVING INTERMITTENT STARTING PROBLEMS OR MAYBE CUTTING OUT? LOOK BEHIND THE FRONT NUMBER PLATE FOR THIS CONNECTOR SHOWN. CONDENSATION CAN FIND ITS WAY IN (FROM WASHING) AND CAUSE ISSUES. THE STARTER WIRE CAN ALSO GET YANKED OUT FROM TURNING BARS TO THE RIGHT TOO HARD AS WE HAVE HAD THAT HAPPEN AS WELL. BEFORE YOU FREAK OUT AND START TO BUY A BUNCH OF SHIT YOU MAY NOT NEED, LOOK BEHIND THE FRONT NUMBER PLATE FIRST AND SPEND A LITTLE TIME LOOKING AROUND AT THESE TWO AREAS OF CONCERN.

FIX: YOU CAN HARD WIRE THE CONNECTION TO ENSURE IT NEVER COMES LOOSE AS WELL AS USE A LITTLE DIELECTRIC GREASE.

2022 Kawasaki KX250 Review/Suspension Settings

No, the 2022 KX250 IS NOT changed from the 2021 model, but that didn’t stop us from getting a re-fresher on the green machine. Below, we will walk you through some positives and negatives of the bike to see if it could be the right bike for you. If this is not enough green content for your eyes, you can also listen to show #256 of the RMATVMC Keefer Tested Podcast to get more insight on the 2022 KX250. Also look below for some baseline settings for the green machine.

Engine:

Even though the 2022 KX250 engine has been unchanged, Kawasaki is still one of the top three 250 four stroke engines in my opinion. I like that this engine can rev to 14,500 and you can feel that on the track when riding! The 2022 KX250′s engine characteristics are the same to the 2021 package with that great over-rev because of the increased rev limit they achieved in 2021. They achieved this higher rpm mainly by adding stiffer valve springs along with new camshaft timing. The power delivery is definitely better if you keep the rpm up and although the green bike doesn’t have that Yamaha mid range meat, it still pulls strong. Maintaining the correct gear is also important, meaning second gear will be used in most corners and will not give you that lugability like the Yamaha. The engine revs far enough that shifting to third gear is not needed until you have exited the corner and down the straight a bit. The FI mapping runs right great from the get-go.

There are three different preprogrammed settings available. These are changed via a coupler located on the right side just by the steering stem. Green is standard, white is aggressive, and black is mellow. This is the same system as what comes on the KX450. I tested all three and found improvements in certain areas with the white and black couplers. Each had improvements, but they also had some drawbacks. The Kawasaki technicians created a custom map that uses the ignition settings of the white coupler and the fuel mapping of the black coupler, which made for a noticeable improvement in the overall power and was accomplished by increasing the midrange torque, which helped it continue to make power further into the highest of rpm. I wouldn’t say it was huge, but it helped with mid rpm torque and seemed to make the power even longer into the upper rpm range. This is called the Chavez Map which has been around for a couple years now.

To do this custom mapping on your own, you would need to buy the accessory KX FI Calibration Kit, which retails for $699.95. It can be found on the Kawasaki website and ordered through your local dealer. This is an added expense, but if you are serious enough about your racing, you are probably already planning on getting your suspension revalved and purchasing an aftermarket exhaust, race gas, and more. So, it is worth considering adding this tool to your race budget.

Clutch:

The hydraulic clutch works well and to me isn't as on/off as the Brembo system. This Nissin unit is the same system that is used on the KX450 and it has proven to work well. The clutch assembly is also using a cone-disc spring in place of a coil-spring system. The clutch friction plates have three different materials to help reduce clutch fade from heat. The clutch works well and plate life is on par with the Honda CRF450R system. It was easy to modulate and because of the hydraulic system, there was no fade during our motos. Shifting under load was reasonably easy with only the smallest amount of clutch lever input, which is much better than the KTM under load.

Chassis/Ergos:

The KX250 chassis is based off the same platform as the KX450. For me, at 5’11, the Kawasaki chassis fits me well and I would say this would be true for most riders. The feel is almost Honda’esq but slimmer feeling. The rider triangle is neutral with plenty of room for adjustment. The handlebar can be moved forward or backward and the footpegs have an optional lower position for taller riders or someone looking to try to lower the bike’s center of gravity. The chassis is also narrow—possibly one of the narrowest four-stroke bikes on the market. Sitting on the KX250, I would say it is a little more of a sitting on top of the bike feeling, but not sitting as high as a KTM or Husqvarna.

The brakes are also great on the KX250 for 2022. The front brake system is the same as the KX450 including the 270mm front rotor. That means the bike now comes with the KX’s very distinct, thin front brake lever. The 250 rear brake has a smaller 240mm rear rotor (down from 250mm on 2020 model). The front brake lever is noticeably thinner than most other brands and to me is annoying. It is fairly easy to modulate and offers a medium to firm feel. The rear brake is noticeably improved with the smaller 240mm rotor over the KX450. Going to the 240 rear rotor helps the rear brake feel less touchy/grabby.

Suspension:

(150-170 Pounds)

Fork: 

Spring Rate: 4.9 N/mm

Height: 4mm

Compression: 11-12 clicks out 

Rebound: 10 clicks out 

Shock:

Spring Rate: 54 N/mm

Sag: 103mm

High Speed Compression: 1.25 turns out

Low Speed Compression: 8 clicks out

Rebound: 10 clicks out 

(175-200 Pounds)

Fork: 

Spring Rate: 4.9 N/mm

Height: 4mm

Compression: 9-10 clicks out 

Rebound: 12 clicks out 

Shock:

Spring Rate: 56 N/mm

Sag: 104mm

High Speed Compression: 1.5 turns out

Low Speed Compression: 11 clicks out

Rebound: 9 clicks out

Weekend Race Set Up: 2022 Dubya USA World Vet Glen Helen Spec

Kris Keefer

Track: Glen Helen Raceway/Dubya USA World Vet Nats

Terrain: Sandy top soil AM with hard pack in PM 

Start: Dirt

Avg Lap Time: 2:36

Total Number Of Motos: 4motos (Two20 minute pluse 1 lapmotos and two 5 laps motos)

Weight At Time Of Race: 170 pounds w/o gear

2022 Yamaha YZ450F: 

Engine Hours 32.6

Mods/Parts: 

Tires: Dunlop MX3S/MX33 13.5/12.5 PSI 

Bars: Pro Taper SX Race Evo

Grips: Renthal Half Waffle Soft

Levers: ARC RC-8 Perch/Lever

Throttle: ZRT 

Rider Triangle: -7mm down and -5mm back peg position/stock bar height/rear hole

Gearing: 13/49 Sunstar Sprockets/DID ERT3 Chain

Engine Mods: Vortex ECU Mapped By XPR/Akrapovic Evolution Full System

Engine Oil: Blud Racing 10/40 Pro Series

Fuel: VP T4

Holeshot Device: WC

Graphics/Seat: DeCal Works Keefer/Stock YZ Graphic/GUTS Racing Ribbed

Suspension: Enzo Racing Test Fork/Shock Spec #KK148

Air Filter: Twin Air Power Flow Kit 

Plastic: Cycra Power Flow Kit

Results: 1st 40 Pro (1-1), World Cup 40 Class (1-1)

Notes: 

            •           GH World Vet ECU setting allowed third gear corners without on/off area 2 feel. Power was controlled and easy to manage late in motos yet pulled hard enough in third gear to climb hills fast.

            •           YZ450F feels slightly heavy on entry (lean in) on shallow ruts.

            •           Fork has better comfort when ridden at race pace. Not too much comfort on initial stroke (light bump) as I feel initial part of stroke is too soft. This allows fork to ride in too low off throttle.

            •           Shock sag at 105mm made for acceptable balance, but sped up rebound +2 clicks to compensate for choppy conditions so rear can follow ground more.

            •           WC start device was better off the gate when set at 130mm for dirt start.

            •           Updated rider triangle (-7mm/-5 back pegs) allows for less leg fatigue. Legs were fresher at end of motos. 

            •           GUTS standard seat foam is firmer than stock OEM foam and last longer. (12.1 hours on foam and density still holding up).

 Suspension Setting: 

Fork:(Spec #KK148F)

C: 11

R: 12

Height: 2mm

 Shock: (Spec #KK146S)

LSC: 12

HSC: 1.25

R: 11

Sag: 105mm

The reasons for picking the Yamaha to race at Glen Helen is for stability and comfort. Bump absorption, straight line stability and front end feel is paramount at Glen Helen and theYZ450F provides the most of those consistencies on a fast/hard pack track.

50 Hours On The 2022 KTM 250 SX-F

We have been hammering down a lot of motos on the 2022 KTM 250SX-F before it has to make its way back to the KTM offices to make way for the 2022.5 KTM 250 Factory Edition. There are still some consumers out there that are concerned about KTM’s durability and wonder if you can trust the Austrian machine over the course of several hard hours. Well to try and give some real world feedback, we have purposely been a little “over abusive” on this orange test steed to see if in fact we can trust the KTM engineers and their R&D department. We have just went over the 50 hour mark last week and have accumulated over 20 of those hours in the past four weeks on rough test tracks near our home. This KTM 250 SX-F has seen its fair share of the testing workload on many parts, accessories and product evaluations in its 50 hour lifespan. A 50 hour engine, on my scale, is like a 75-80 hour engine on a regular blue collar average weekend racer/rider. If you’re looking for shiny new photos of the 2022 KTM 250 SX-F you came to the wrong place. This thing is a work horse and not a show pony. Below are some of the key points I wanted to share with you current 2022 KTM 250 SX-F owners and maybe potential KTM buyers about our test unit. 

2022 KTM 250 SX-F:

 Engine Hours 50.1 

Tires: Dunlop MX3S/MX33 13.5/12.5 PSI 

Bars: Pro Taper Evo Suzuki Race Team Cut to 805mm

Grips: Pro Taper 1/3 Waffle Race Cut

Levers: Stock

Throttle: ZRT Grey Cam 

Rider Triangle: Stock

Gearing: 14/52 Sunstar Sprockets/DID ERT3 Chain

Engine Mods: None

Muffler: FMF 4.1/ Akrapovic Evolution 

Engine Oil: Blud Racing 10/40 Pro Series

Fuel: Renegade SX4+

Holeshot Device: WC

Graphics/Seat: Throttle Syndicate

Suspension: REP Racing Test Fork/Shock Spec #AK4

Air Filter: Twin Air Power Flow Kit 

Engine/ECU Settings: KTM’s R&D department has done a good job with their ECU settings on the KTM 250 SX-F, but we were looking for more bottom end on this specific model when Aden races. Being in the B class out in California requires you to keep up with the Joneses so to speak so adding a little “meat” to the KTM 250 SX-F wasn’t off the table. When you first get your KTM 250 SX-F and ride her it may feel very tight, sluggish off the bottom end, slight de-cel popping, as well as have more engine braking than we would like. Some of these symptoms die off after 8-10 hours of riding time on the engine. We used the stock ECU box/settings for the first 18 hours and we had some of those symptoms until around hour 9, then the de-cel popping went away and also some of that sluggish feeling coming out of corners. So does that mean you current 2022 KTM 250 SX-F owners are screwed? No. I just wanted to make it clear that this bike is very much rideable in stock form without a ECU re-flash. 

If you DO NOT want to spend the money on a Vortex ignition you can get your standard box re-flashed from Jamie at Twisted Development. Jamie has a better ECU setting for you current orange brigade riders out there. If you DO want to spend the extra $800.00 or so, the Vortex is simply magic for this engine. The engine delivery still remains so smooth yet easier to ride and increases the use of second and third gear. Going to the Vortex ignition gives you the option to ride with less effort while decreasing your lap times because the workload is simply less with the power character the Vortex gives the orange machine. I repeat you DO NOT have to have the Vortex to make the KTM 250 SX-F engine better! You can save some money and re-flash your current ECU, but if you want the most out of the engine without busting into it, this Vortex is really good!

What about durability once you go with a Vortex ignition? I have yet to have any durability issues with going to an aftermarket ECU that is correctly mapped from either said company above. It is one of the only modifications you can make to your machine that will make a noticeable difference in power without sacrificing the lifespan of your engine. 

What about clutch life? Aden is not really hard on clutches, but we literally can go over 30 hours on one clutch and when we did check it, it was still good! At the 50.1 hour mark we have only installed one clutch. We change out the engine oil every 4 hours and use a 10/40 Synthetic by Blue Lubricants. We also DO NOT notice slippage under load when the engine gets hot. The hydraulic clutch is something that we have come to appreciate more through the years and although the engagement of the KTM is a little on/off feeling, the overall performance of the clutch itself is amazing under heavy race oriented type stress. 

What about engine maintenance? I am not going to sit here and tell you I am some great mechanic and I am busing out valve clearance checks every 20 hours. We did check the valve clearance after 25 hours and they were within spec and I haven't checked them since. Like I mentioned above I have used Blud Racing 10/40 in this bike and have changed the oil every 4 hours. I am usually a 2-3 engine hour oil change kind of guy, but the KTM has held the rigorous amount of riding time that I have put on it.

Chassis/Suspension: During the course of the 50 hours we spent on this machine, we decided to stick with the stock WP suspension, but had it valved from REP/AEO. We wanted to stick with the AER fork and see if we could get it comfortable enough and not have to resort to a spring conversion. The setting that Mark at REP provided us gave more front end feel through the fork/front end and was more consistent throughout the day than the stock setting. My 135 pound son had a chance to ride with some WP Pro Components set up for him, but he actually chose the AER set up because he liked how much comfort he had versus the Pro Component fork. The REP valved shock had better high speed compression feel on heavy loads and the combination of the new valving and REP knuckle/link provided more rear wheel traction than the stock set up we used before this REP setting. If you're a weekend warrior just looking for more comfort on your KTM 250SX-F, there is hope that you can get that with some re-valving though REP. 

Gearing: We have ran the stock gearing as well as tried going to a 14/52 and found out that we like the 14/52 set up to get some extra low end snap as well as third gear roll on out of corners. We like the 14/52’s traction character out of corners, but you must realize that you can shift a little earlier with this gearing to feel that extra rear wheel traction. With the stock gearing, the KTM 250 SX-F kind of forces you to use second gear longer, but with the added tooth, it can help you third gear luggers. Give it a try if you're a third gear kind of rider. We also only have changed the Sunstar sprockets/DID ERT 3 chain once during this 50 hour period! 

Handlebars/Grips: My son and I are both crossbar-less type of riders so we chose the Pro Taper EVO Race Team bend that just came out from Pro Taper. The Race Team bend is a 810mm width, 91mm height, 49mm rise, 52mm sweep and is a great flat that keeps you over the front of the machine. We can get over the front of the bike better out of corners, but our elbows are up a little more naturally and we feel better when standing on the bike. If you're a crossbar kind of guy, the Pro Taper Fuzion bar has a EVO-ish flex character and will not feel as rigid as some other crossbar brands. Also note that the stock lock-on-grips/throttle tube also can get heavy after around 20 hours, so check your plastic tube for wear. The plastic on the lock on grips can get rough inside and make your throttle pull hard. If you ware looking to put standard grips on go with a ZRT aluminum throttle as it will make your throttle so buttery you will never want to go back to a plastic tube again. Plus the ZRT is the toughest aluminum throttle tube we have ever come across. 

Air Filter: Buy yourself a KTM 250SX two-stroke air filter cage because they come without a backfire screen and then go get a Twin Air filter. Just doing this little modification gave me some added RPM response which helps the KTM feel even lighter in tight sections of any given track. 

Wheels/Tires/Axle Blocks: You will have to check your sprocket bolts and spokes religiously, but if you use a little blue Loctite on your sprocket bolts you should be good. You can also increase the rear wheel traction by going with some Works Connection Elite axle blocks or Ride Engineering axle blocks that will eliminate the fixed left side axle block from your axle. This allows both axle blocks to float under heavy load (acceleration) and will not give you a binding rear end (harsh) feel. It sounds minimal, but makes a difference on acceleration chop. You can also run your wheel a little farther back if you're changing your gearing to get some added straight line stability that the KTM can use at times. If there is a weak point to the KTM, it is the wheels. We have blown out two rear wheels in the past six months so maybe upgrading to a better wheel set could be in your future if you’re slightly hard on your wheels because you over jump or under jump a lot.


Rear Brake Pedal Spring: The stock one sucks! We break the brake pedal spring every 4-6 hours! You either are going to have to load up on brake pedal springs or go with a CRF450R brake pedal spring with the rubber over it (condom style). This helps with the vibration that the spring experiences, so it doesn't break. Orrrr, simply order a FAAST Co. rear brake return spring and you’re golden.

Failures: 

Two Rear Wheels broke (spokes ripped out)

One Top Valve Cover Gasket/Grommet leaked

Three Rear Brake Pedal Springs

One Rear Brake Pedal Brake Tip Broke Off (Rock in a rut impact)

Linkage nut fell off

To 250 Four Stroke or Not To 250 Four Stroke

Written By: Michael Allen

Some things in life are the way they are because they are that way; the sun is hot, the ocean is deep and gravity hurts. Moto also has things that just are the way they are; the smell of two-stroke race gas on cool days, early mornings bringing fond memories to a riders mind, having butterflies that give you that unexplainable exciting/nervous feeling just before the gate drops and the desire to constantly improve in the search for that elusive “perfect race”. While there are many great truths in the motocross world, there is one claimed “truth” that in my opinion is flat out wrong, has the potential to harm innocent riders whose macho ego overpowers their ability to look at themselves in the mirror and make a rational purchase. What I’m referring to is the falsehood that any vet type of rider needs to ride a 450 and if they don’t, they’re sissies who can’t handle a man’s bike. Well I’m here to hopefully shed some light, tell my story and give you a perspective on smaller bikes as a reasonable future purchase. 

We all know the rider: “I just bought a new (pick your color) 450 and I’m headed to Glen Helen to break it in on the main track. Back in my day I had a KX 500 that was a rocket ship and it’d rip your arms out of the damn sockets. Shit that’s a real man’s bike, I doubt the riders today could handle a 500 2-stroke. I’d buy one today if they made one, but I guess I’ll settle for this 4-stroke since I can’t buy the power I really need”. It doesn’t matter if you know this guy or you are this guy, the bottom line is that more than likely the moto memories you have of racing resembles a Toby Keith song; “you aren’t as good as you once was”. I’m just as guilty as anyone when it comes to remembering a better image of my racing self than probably ever existed, but once I learned the secret I’m about to let you in on, it made me feel like I was almost as good as I (thought) I once was. 

Once I was done racing (off-road) I got more into testing with Kris, whether it be off-road or moto I was open to riding anything. It didn’t take long before I realized that although I love going fast on the latest 450, I would always find myself holding on for dear life after the first few laps. I kept chalking it up to not being in as good of shape, maybe the track prep was bad, or whatever other excuse I could come up with that day to make myself feel better about my lack luster performance. It all came to a head at a local desert race that I raced on a 450. I figured how fast could the vet class be, I’d just ride the fast bike at a slower pace where I felt comfortable. I quickly found that at all of us that ride are wired similar! 

No matter if your five or fifty-five, if there is someone next to you holding the throttle wide open, your inner racer will beg you to keep your wrist twisted just a little longer than the guy next to you. We have all done it, the only difference is that this time it bit me at about 70mph as I sent myself cartwheeling across the desert disappearing into a cloud of dust and bike parts. One vomiting concussion, a broken collarbone, and a bruised ego later I realized that inner racer got the best of me. 

Once I healed up, I was itching to swing my leg back over a bike and once again prove to myself that I still had it; the only problem was that the first bike I was loaned to test was a YZ 125. I remember being grateful for having the opportunity to test, but at the same time thinking “why the hell am I testing a kids bike at 30 years old?” I squeezed into my size 32 gear (which was a little tight after sitting on the couch) swatted the toothpick sized kick start and headed over to the vet track for some warm up laps. After dusting off the cobwebs I started picking up the pace and that’s when it happened. I’ve always been told to listen to what your body is telling you and after a few more laps my old body could no longer be ignored. A sharp sensation hit me like a slap in the face, in fact it was a sensation that was not only felt on my face, it could be seen, so I went back to the truck to have a buddy give it a second look. When I pulled my helmet off at the truck a friend looked over at me and confirmed what I had been feeling, “what the hell are you so happy about?” The ear to ear grin on my face was reminiscent of Malcolm Smith in the closing credits of on any Sunday and that’s when it occurred to me. I hadn’t had that much fun on a dirt bike in years. Throughout that day I had probably rode more laps than I would in a week on a 450.

The reason for writing this isn’t to tell you that 450’s are worthless and nobody should buy one. In fact 450s are great for certain riders and scenarios, but I want you to be able to take a step back and objectively choose a bike that’s right for you, the type of rider you are and the type of riding you do. Every year I go to the Dubya USA vet nationals and see far too many older or unexperienced riders lining up with 50+ horsepower 450’s getting ready to roll the dice at 50 MPH going into Talladega. I say roll the dice because it’s not uncommon to see a crash just off the starting gate; like when Matthes got T-Boned damn near before the gate was even done falling. While it may sound cool to tell the cashier girl at the local bike shop that you ride a big bad 450, trust me, she’s about as likely to go home with you as you are to take Roczen’s place at Honda next year.

Obviously, everyone’s ability and preferences are different, but I think the average vet rider would be surprised at how much fun a 250f is on a motocross track. A lot of older riders haven’t even ridden a 250f since they ran their oil through the frame. I think the older crowd thinks of finicky carburetors, power that was comparable to 125s and bikes that are meant for kids transitioning to 450s. Unless you’re over 220lb, a 250f would not only have plenty of power for you on a motocross track, but you’d be amazed at how much longer you can ride when your shoulders aren’t being pulled out of their sockets and your forearms aren’t as hard as taking that little blue pill you may now need. In my opinion the perfect bike for a vet rider is the Yamaha YZ250F because out of the box it’s easy to ride, has the most user friendly low/mid power and a great fork for a broad range of riders. I’m not saying that the YZ250F is the only bike a vet rider should choose, it’s just that in my eyes it’s a quarter liter four stroke that is best suited for a vet rider. Maybe if you’re a little heavier, think about a YZ250, KTM 250SX or even a KTM/FC 350. Orrrrrr if you’re a little lighter and like revving, think about a KTM 150SX or YZ125. All I ask is that you do some research about what bike may be a good fit for you besides a 450. Again, I want to reiterate this by saying that 450cc+ bikes have their place in the vet rider world, just not in mine currently. If you’re going to get a dual sport or ride off-road in the desert, get a 450 if that’s what you’re in the market for. That being said, in most cases trust me, you’ll have more fun, be able to hold on tighter and ride longer on a smaller bike. Let your buddies talk all the smack they want because when you’re halfway through a moto and they’re pumped up like something fierce, you’ll cross the finish line with a smile looking forward to the second moto.





2022 Kawasaki KX450 Baseline Settings

Engine Feel: Just in case you were trying to decide on if the 2022 KX450 is better than the 2021, don’t stress because it’s the same bike! The 2022 engine character has great connection to the rear wheel, a smooth linear power that is smooth with snappy low end response, yet never seems like it has too much mid to top end, but does have more engine braking than a couple other 450 in its class. The mid range has a nice amount of meat and the smoother pulling power of the top end/over-rev is noticeable on longer straights or up hills. If you’re thinking about which coupler to use, (without changing the mapping) try the black coupler as it will help smooth out the low end rpm response (just know that if your KX450 is too touchy down low for you then this attached map below is the ticket). The KX didn’t lose mid to top end pulling power with the black coupler (compared to the stock green one) and I could ride the KX450 more aggressively through corners with the smoother power. However, if you have access to a KX Calibration Tool then see below for a map that helps low end as well as helps lengthen mid-top end.  

Weight Feeling (Chassis): I am able to lay the KX450 down with ease (initial lean) and cut down under a blown out rut fairly easy but once in the rut the KX still feels long. I also get a little twitch on de-cel (which can be fixed with a fork spring change), but it wasn't a horrible or un-easy feeling. Straight line stability is still the same straight and arrow Kawasaki feel that you expect, but with added traction. The frame absorption is the best attribute of this machine and other manufacturers should take notice of how well this KX450 feels when the track goes to crap. The whole bike feels friendlier than any other 2021 machine on square edge and the only other one that comes close in comfort is the Yamaha YZ450F. 

Suspension Comfort: The 2022 Kawasaki is so much more balanced than previous generation KX450’s and I was able to set the front end down where I wanted to without feeling like the front end was going to snap my wrists. The fork has tons of comfort, but is also too soft/low on de-cel for my liking. At tracks with hills or sizable jumps, the fork was too low in the stroke and bottomed too many times. Going stiffer on the compression only hurt de-cel bump comfort, so I settled on going slower on the rebound, which helped some. The shock is soft as well on slap down landings, but going eight clicks (two full turns) in helped keep the rear end up and thus helps wallow feeling. This setting will get you by on most tracks, but do yourself a favor and read the recommended suspension settings below for optimal balance of the KX450. The recommended settings below will help with hold up and ride comfort.

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Cornering/Chassis: The 2022 KX450 is a “neutral” cornering machine. I am able to get more rear wheel bite than a Yamaha YZ450F, but I am still able to turn on the front end fairly well. I had a rear end steering tester with me when we did the intro and he mentioned how well it backed into corners still. I thought front end bite from area 2-3 of corners was still acceptable, but got even better with a heavier fork spring. I say “area 2-3” because the KX450 still does have a slight vague feel on entrance of corners, so increasing spring rate prevents the front end from diving, which in turn prevents your front tire from pushing on entrance. 

Rider Triangle: The footpeg to seat to handlebar ratio is great! The seat is flat, which puts me more on top of the machine and the Renthal 839 Fatbar makes the bike feel very friendly for a wide range of riders. 

 Brakes: Do yourself a favor and get a 2021 KX250 rear disc and hanger. The 250mm disc is too grabby and really screws up my corners/braking points. The rear end will slide when I don't expect it and this causes my corners to be herky/jerky. Go back to the 240mm disc on the 21 KX250 and live life happier. 

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2021 KX450 Suspension Settings:

After almost 25 hours on the 22 KX450 these are the best settings for a wide range of riders. This setting is based around comfort and will give the rider the most confidence. Use this set up until you get a re-valve. Once you re-valve, use recommended suspension tuners spec. 

Fork: 

 Spring Rate .51 N/m Spring (.50 N/m is stock) *If B level rider and over 200 pounds .52 N/m springs are also a great option*

 Oil Level: Standard

 Compression:10-11 clicks out

 Rebound Range: 9-10 clicks out

 Fork Height: 3 mm

 Shock:

 Spring Rate: .54 N/m (190 pounds or over, try .56 N/m)

 Low Speed Compression: 13 clicks out

 High Speed Compression: 1 1/8 turns out

 Rebound: 10 out

Coupler/ECU Setting:

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The engine on the 2022 KX450 in stock is smooth off the bottom and easy to ride, but does have a little dip from mid to top, so I created this map to help fill that dip in and make it pull slightly longer. You will notice even more of a linear (more control at low RPM) pull down low without any jerky feeling through corners. With this map installed it helped settle the chassis down through long ruts and improved overall traction feel. In the testing world we call this "cornering stability". With this map installed it helped the 2022 KX450's cornering stability, especially on intermediate terrain. You can use any coupler with the Kawasaki FI Calibration Tool to create this map. 

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Aftermarket Mufflers: I have tried a lot of mufflers with the KX450 and to me the FMF and PC have the most noticeable change to the engine character of the KX450. As ugly as the stock muffler is, it’s a very good muffler for a broad range of power delivery. However, when you go to a FMF muffler, do yourself a favor and look at this article on how to make it rubber mounted. https://www.keeferinctesting.com/offroad-testing/2020/10/8/how-to-save-your-subframe-on-your-2019-2021-kawasaki-kx450

 We have broken a subframe tab because the FMF is a solid mount system, not rubber mounted. This doesn’t necessarily mean that the subframe tab will not break if it’s rubber mounted as we have broken the tab on the subframe with the stock muffler as well (which is rubber mounted).

2022 Yamaha YZ250F GYTR High Performance Engine Kit

There aren’t very many OEM manufacturer accessory divisions out there that offer actual engine mods for their machines. Oh wait, there isn’t one! The only manufacturer that offers anything engine related is Yamaha. KTM used to have KTM Factory Services but that has been shut down yet GYTR is still going strong with a long heritage in the off-road world. I recently had the chance to test GYTR’s newest high performance YZ250F engine kit (which pulled me around to win the Keefer Vs. Keefer Part Two race) and thought why not dive into what is involved in the kit as well as how it differs from the stock 2022 YZ250F on the track. The 2021-2022 YZ250F GYTR kit comes with fully assembled cylinder head, high compression piston, air filter airflow kit, OEM gasket kit and a pre-programmed Vortex ECU for 3,199.00. GYTR also offers cams for this kit for an additional $699.99.

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Durability Criteria: 

Being that I used to work for the GYTR YPAD division (Yamaha Parts Accessory Division) in the early 2000s I have had some experience with their criteria for the durability of these types of engine parts. When the engineers decide on a power that they are satisfied with on the dyno, the Yamaha R&D team will build up a machine and proceed to take it out to a few tracks to see if it is in fact better than the stock. Not only will it have to be better, but also make sense for the cost right? After the decision is made that the engine kit is deemed worthy for resale, the durability begins. Japan usually requires all accessory parts endure 1000km of life before it can be passed for quality control. I have been a part of other manufacturers durability testing procedures and have found out that none (so far) have been as detailed as Yamaha’s. So the good news is that when you purchase a GYTR engine performance kit, you’re getting something reliable and tested. 

On The Track:

I will say that when I first hopped on the GYTR YZ250F, I wasn’t blown away by the power. That is until I rode a stock YZ250F back to back. Once I rode the stock YZ250F is when I appreciated what the team over at GYTR did with this kit. I will not say the high performance engine kit has more low end RPM response as I think the stock YZ250F still has more initial response down low, but coming out of corners is when you’ll be able to appreciate the GYTR power. You can shift later in each gear and even allows this old guy to ride third gear in more corners than the stock YZ250F. This is huge especially for a rider that is coming off of a 450 which might have too much power, yet still wants to ride his 250F like a 450F. The stock YZ250F is one of the few 250F’s in class to allow some third gear cornering, but with the GYTR kit it can increase that window even more. Mid range pulling power is more meaty gives you the feeling of more torque in soft conditions. The GYTR engine feels freer revving than the stock engine and also has less engine braking which helps the chassis on rough tracks. Top end pull is not a huge difference over stock but you can feel the GYTR kit pull harder on top with a little more over-rev per gear than the stock engine. 

Things I Would Like To Improve: 

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Even though I tested the GYTR High Performance Engine Kit with stock cams I think this engine could benefit from a longer top end/over-rev feel, which the GYTR cams can provide (tested them on last year’s engine). This engine likes to be short shifted, which is great for lugging or lazy riders, but for faster B class kids that love to rev each gear out extremely far, I still think the KTM and Honda have better top end over-rev capabilities. The GYTR engine package will reward you if you short shift which took me a while to pick up on, but once I did, this YZ250F was a weapon! I also would like to try the GYTR/FMF muffler system with the insert in, instead of with it out (like I tested). The insert in can give some added back pressure, which can give me some added low end rpm response. The FMF system could use some more bottom end and that could be the reason why the GYTR YZ250F lacks some of that low end RPM response. 

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Is It Worth The Money?:

That is the reason why we do these articles and videos right? Of course this question is only good for people that are actually interested in doing some engine work. Do you NEED this kit if you just want to race local and have fun? Absolutely not! However, if you want to get a little more serious against your 450cc’d vet buddies or maybe want to get a little more competitive in the amateur racing world, to me this kit is worth the money. Going to some private engine builders to build your motor can cost anywhere between 2500-5000. Along with that, your bike will be down for at least a couple weeks, so getting a complete high performance engine kit that is tested in house at Yamaha is worth the money in my opinion. I do wish the GYTR engine kit gave some more top end/over-rev, but I am pretty sure you can get more of that with some cams and another map on the Vortex ECU. 

Helpful Suspension Set Up Tips

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Suspension is hard to understand. Especially if you’re somewhat of a novice when it comes to setting up your bike. It took me a long time to understand what my bike was doing and how I could make it better. If you’re struggling to set up your suspension or maybe you just want to arm yourself with some knowledge, here are some tips to help you when you’re in your garage or out on the track.

Adjustments are there for you to “customize” your set up and feel on the track. The compression and rebound damping adjustments on your machine are known as your “clicker” adjustments. Making the correct changes with your clickers will make your bike handle better and give you a friendlier riding experience. Clickers control the amount of oil flow that is allowed to bypass your fork/shock valving stack. They work like a fuel screw and can fine tune your suspension.

A shock has both low-speed and high-speed compression adjustments. The low-speed adjuster controls the damping at low shock speed velocities like rolling whoops and acceleration bumps. The high-speed adjuster controls damping when the shock is moving at high speeds like g-outs, jump faces and can affect the ride height of the machine. If you’re on an older KYB PSF2 fork (may god be with you by the way) you’re stuck with high and low speed compression and high and low speed rebound. Before you start messing around with clicker adjustments here are some things you should do first:

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Check where your clickers are set at and write them down.

Start out with recommended stock settings first for baseline.

Adjust your tire pressure for the type of riding and terrain. 13-14 psi is usually standard.

Make sure you have the correct spring rate for your weight and set your sag.

Bleed the air out of the forks every time you ride, if you have a spring fork.

If using air forks, makes sure to check air pressure and if you’re on AER forks, there is an air bleed for them as well.

Start off by riding your machine with your clickers set in the stock position. This will give you a good base setting of how your bike handles. Ride only a few laps (2-4) at a time when you try new settings so you will not be second guessing your initial impression of each adjustment. When you stay out too long you will start to second guess your initial thoughts. Ride the same lines/bumps every lap so you get a feel for the changes you make and do not ride around the bumps you are trying to test on. If you change lines this will alter your perception of how well your stuff is working. Cheating doesn’t nothing for you here! This will only hurt you in the long run, so buck up and take the rough line! Make changes to your clickers 1-2 “clicks” at a time and one adjustment at a time (rebound or compression). Changing compression and rebound on the fork and shock at the same time can confuse you as to what setting is actually improving your machine. There is the old 2 for 1, which is for every two clicks of compression you go in or out on rebound. For example, if you’re on a KYB spring fork and you go two clicks in stiffer, you might want to back out one click of rebound to compensate for the stiffer comp setting. For beginners, just chill down and do one adjustment at a time. Soft terrain usually requires more compression damping (stiffer) because the bumps are softer in nature and usually taller. Same goes for when the bumps are soft/big and spaced further apart, so in that situation the machine can require a slower rebound damping to minimize kick. If there is a hard base underneath, the bumps will usually be closer together and square edges will develop. In this case a softer/faster setting can be used, especially when speeds are higher.

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 You can also run your front end higher (drop your fork height) and the rear end lower (higher sag number) if possible for stability, to combat any twitchiness your bike may have.

On hard pack dirt it is better to adjust the rebound and compression to a softer setting while still maintaining control and bottoming resistance. Try to find a happy medium between bottoming and comfort. It’s ok to bottom out once or even twice a lap, so don’t freak out if you bottom out once in a while. That doesn’t mean you need to stiffen your suspension if you’re bottoming out. All of your suspension is meant to be used, that’s why it’s there, so let it do its job. If you are bottoming out more than that, you would adjust your compression clickers to a stiffer setting. Adjusting your rebound damping to a stiffer setting will help if your bike feels unstable (loose feel) or if you are blowing through the stroke on jump faces. In very rare cases adjusting the rebound clicker one way or the other could work. While it is common to stiffen the shock rebound when your bike kicks over bumps (because you feel like it’s bucking you), many times it is caused by compression that is too stiff. Try going one or two clicks softer/faster to see if it soaks up the bumps and calms the chassis down. If that doesn’t seem to help check your riding position on the bike or yes, it could be that your rebound is too fast/soft. Getting the shock to not “kick” on top of jumps is difficult to diagnose so be ready to try both sides of the spectrum with rebound on this type of tricky obstacle.

Again, be patient. Designate a day where you just play around with your settings and get familiar with your bike. I feel like suspension tuning is kind of like dating. You must learn your partner before you can get married right? Getting a balanced, comfortable suspension setting is no different than dating. Get to know your bike before you decide to dump it and blame it all on her. Maybe it’s you? Maybe you didn’t give it a chance? Play around and see what works for you. If the rear of your bike kicks to the side, the cause can be that it’s too stiff of a setting. Again, try one adjustment at a time. Lack of traction (wheel spin) on acceleration bumps can usually be improved by softening the low-speed compression on the shock or speeding up the rebound, so the rear tire follows the ground better. Keep in mind that faster riders generally prefer stiffer settings to maintain control at speed (performance) while slower riders prefer softer settings for comfort

When it comes to air forks messing with the air pressure can be a pain. Just to let all you know, 2 psi is one full spring rate on any air fork, so that is why I usually adjust using “bar”, not psi. How many times have you changed a spring out at the track? Not very much right? Unless you are very light or on the heavier side, the stock air pressure settings from the factory are usually a great place to start and keep within .2-.4 bar (softer or stiffer). Adjusting your compression and rebound clickers on air forks is much easier and a simpler way to dial in these types of forks. Air pressure will change throughout the day as heat builds up, so if you are checking your air pressure in the middle of the day, make sure the fork is cooled down to ambient air temperature.

Follow some of these easy steps and I can guarantee you that you will get your set up even better and enjoy riding that dirt bike of yours even more. If you have any set up questions you can email me at kris@keeferinctesting.com as we will always try to be here for you!

2021 Kawasaki KX450X Top 5 Mods

Written/Tested By: Gary Sutherlin

The 2021 Kawasaki KX450X has been a bike I’ve been interested in putting some time on ever since Kawasaki decided to jump back into producing an off-road 450. I don’t care who you are, but there’s something nice about rolling up to the track or trails not having to worry about a stand. Unfortunately, Kawasaki missed big with their kickstand placement and as functional as it may be on the showroom it needs to come off ASAP if you’re planning to lean the bike over riding at all. After a few days of riding, I had a pretty good direction of a few things I wanted to try to improve on the KX450X.

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AEO/REP Suspension:

The stock valving on the KX450X was too soft for both off-road and MX riding for me. Although it was comfortable it didn’t have the hold up and performance that I wanted for both types of riding. After talking with Mark at AEO we decided to lean more towards an off-road setup and highlight what this bike was designed for. My first impression was exactly what I asked for, the valving had more hold up, a progressive feel throughout the stroke, and the added performance to push in rougher areas. I rode this set up at MX tracks, California desert and rocky single track in Arizona. If I was going to ride both moto and off-road I think I would stiffen the low-speed compression both front and rear to help the performance at the motocross track but not taking too much away from how well it works for trail riding. This setup really shined at everything I threw at it while trail riding, it soaked up all the rocks, small chop and square edges but had enough bottoming resistance that I could still hit bigger whoops and g-outs without completely hammering my back. www.repsuspension.com

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Ride Engineering Linkage:

I used to put a different linkage pull rod on my Kawasaki’s back in the day, which was a couple generations of KX models ago, but always saw a big improvement with the ride attitude of the machine. With the stock link I found that the sweet spot for sag and balance, which was around 105-106mm with the link. With Ride Engineering’s link I tried the same sag numbers but realized the balance of the bike was off and too low in the back, so I bumped it up to 102mm to get the bike more balanced for what I prefer. Once the balance felt right, I noticed how well the bike drove through square edge bumps under acceleration, had an increase in rear wheel traction and helped keep the rear wheel planted to the ground. It helped in areas I hadn’t even noticed the KX450 was lacking with the stock link, so this was a surprise mod that I was not expecting too make that big of a change, but was one of the top mods that I did to the green machine. www.ride-engineering.com

Ride Engineering 22mm Offset Clamps:

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One of the first things that had me scratching my head with the Kawasaki was the vague feeling I was getting with the front end of the KX450X on lean angle. I felt like I would have traction then, bam, the front wheel was gone and I found myself picking myself up off the dirt. Adrian at Ride Engineering has been testing this clamp set up for awhile and asked me to give it a try and I figured this may be the ticket to stop finding myself lying in the dirt. The 22mm offset helped with front end traction that I was lacking with the stock clamp making it feel more planted and gave me more confidence in the front end anytime I was leaning the KX450X. I found the clamp to work well on single track trails and the flowing desert. My lean in while setting up for a turn was more controlled and seemed to help me change directions on the trail quicker and pick better lines. I did notice on faster high-speed bumps I was getting more feedback in the bars with the 22mm offset clamp than with the 23mm offset. I think going to the 22mm offset might increase rigidity a tad on square edge. When you make one area better sometimes it takes a little away from the other but I think it was a good improvement across the board and made the front end better for what I set the bike up for. www.ride-engineering.com

ARC Levers:

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The simplest but most effective change to the KX450X was new ARC clutch and brake levers. In stock form the levers had me wondering if I ever used a clutch and front brake before, they’re oddly skinny and the engagement point was in a weird spot for me. I chose to use ARC Memlon levers over the aluminum for off-road. Bob over at ARC is a clutch and brake warlock giving you the options to make lever engagement and feel for ANYONE!. With his “Flip Chips” allowing you 6 different power ratios you really can make a personalized feel for you. Bob recommended the 16-17 ratio and it helped put the engagement a little closer to my fingers and improved the control while cornering. I know a lot of people think the Memlon front brake levers flex too much, but I really like the feel of the lever and don’t have a problem getting the KX450X to slow down for my thick ass. Plus, if you’re out trail riding and one of those pesky rocks comes out of nowhere, you might find yourself on the ground, the last thing you need is riding the rest of the day without a clutch or brake lever. www.arclevers.com

Brake Tech Brake Piston:

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Calling all brake draggers!! I’ve used this product for the past few years on my KTM’s and it’s been a game changer. I have a lead foot and drag the brake a lot to help steer the bike while trail riding (editor’s note: as well as moto!). I noticed in the summer months brake fade on the tighter trails I rode with the added heat. But that was all solved with installing the new brake piston. With Jeff’s brake piston not only is it helping disperse heat through the face of the piston, the back also allows the brake system to hold almost 30cc more brake fluid. Whether you’re riding long trail rides, racing for multiple hours, or just like using that rear brake at the track, this brake piston is a must have on any model bike you have. www.braketech.com

 

2022 Yamaha YZ250F Baseline Settings

The 2022 Yamaha YZ250F doesn’t have the changes on paper that you would like, but the bLU cRU did do some minor updates to help try and lighten the YZ250F up some. Yamaha lightened up the hub, sprocket, chain and they installed a 2.15 rear rim (instead of the 1.85 2021 rear rim), as well as went to Dunlop MX33 tires with a 110 rear tire in stock trim. The fork’s low speed damping was increased to try and create less pitching off throttle and there you have it. The 2022 YZ250F. Here are a couple baseline settings to try out on your own in case you might be lost.  

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Suspension:

The 2022 suspension feels firmer (compared the 2021), holds up more in the stroke slightly, yet still has that KYB free feeling movement (unlike a Showa feel where it moves less with a dead feel) that is very active on the track. That active feel translates into a a front/rear end that follows the ground well under small chatter and bigger/softer braking bumps. I did have to go a little firmer still once broken in on both ends for my style of riding, but it didn’t take long at all to feel comfortable. Track Toughness of the 2022 Yamaha YZ250F is as good as the 21, but if you’re north of 185 pounds you might want to drop in a set of heavier fork springs 48N/mm fork springs and live happy! 

Fork:

Spring Rate: 47 N/mm (Over 185 use 48N/mm springs)

Height: 4mm

Compression: 8 clicks out 

Rebound: 10 clicks out 

Shock:

Spring Rate: 56 N/mm

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Sag: 104mm

High Speed Compression: 7/8-1 turn out

Low Speed Compression: 8 clicks out

Rebound: 9 clicks out 

Mapping: 

If you’re looking for less engine braking and/or more mid-top end pull here are two maps to choose from.

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Mid-Top End Map

Mid-Top End Map

FMF 4.1 Titanium Slip On Muffler System: Although the stock exhaust is VERY hard to beat in terms of performance, it can get a little raspy once you hit around 10 hours. Yes, that quick! The FMF 4.1 slip on system gives the bike a throaty tune and a factory look, but with a tunable engine character. We have found that running the system without the spark arrestor insert takes away too much back pressure, which causes the YZ250F to lose some of that bottom end power we come to love out of this bike. We prefer the system with the spark arrestor installed because it helps keep most of the stock bottom end, keeps the YZ250F quieter the bike, and can even make it legal to ride on the trails. Going to this will NOT give you more bottom end than the stock system, but you will get more mid range pull as well as more top end. Not to mention a much better muffler pitch!

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2022 Honda CRF450R baseline Settings

Even though the Honda hasn’t changed much for 2022, Showa as well as Honda worked on creating more hold up from the suspension. This lead us to create another baseline setting for you 2022 owners. The ECU has also been updated, but there is still some lean pop on de-cel so we are currently working/looking into one type of stock ECU reflash to see if we can get it better. However, compared to the 2021, the ECU is much cleaner upon throttle delivery and has more connection to the rear wheel. We also took it a step further this year and matched up some traction control settings to map settings for you to try at your local track. There are two combinations below that we think can help you lower your lap times and make big red easier to ride. As always if you have questions about your new Honda, we will always try to help, so email us at kris@keeferinctesting.com if you have some thoughts/questions.  

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Optional Suspension Setting: 

The stock suspension for 2022 is a firmer feel and to us that is a step in the right direction. However it still might be too soft for you if you’re anywhere over 180 pounds. Honda has a 5.0 N/m fork spring that is adequate for most, but even with the having more low speed compression damping for 2022, once broken in it might be a tad soft for riders north of 180. Out back the 54 N/m shock spring is a little soft, but the 2022 valving is much better on high speed compression so going to a stiffer spring was not warranted for my 170 pound frame. If you’re over 190 pounds then I would recommend going to a 56 N/mm spring with the correlating clicker adjustments. This will help the Honda from riding too low in the stroke under acceleration when you’re pushing 200 pounds. However, with the 54 N/mm spring and the 2022 valving the CRF450R has more rear wheel traction and added comfort on small chop so trying the clicker adjustments set to the 54 N/mm spring is worth a shot first. Remember, if you’re near 200 pounds and not into spending more money on a re-valve at this time, simply get some heavier springs and try this setting: 

 Fork: (170-200 pounds)

 Spring Rate: 51 N/mm

 Height: Flush

 Comp: 10 out

 Rebound: 12 out

 

Shock: (170-180 pounds)

 Spring Rate: 54 N/mm 

 L/S Comp: 11 clicks out

 H/S Comp: 2 1/2 clicks out

 Rebound: 9-10 clicks out

 Sag: 105mm

Shock: (180-200 pounds)

 Spring Rate: 56 N/mm 

 L/S Comp: 13 clicks out

 H/S Comp: 2 3/4 clicks out

 Rebound: 11 clicks out

 Sag: 105mm

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Torque Specs:

I still prefer going to these torque specs on the 2022 Honda CRF450R. I spent a few more days experimenting with torque settings on the 2022 and have came up with the spec chart below. What these updated torque specs do for you is slightly improve the bump compliancy and front/rear wheel traction of the 2022 CRF450R. This isn’t a cure all, but you will feel a little extra comfort in your red ride. If you don’t see a torque spec on a portion of the bike that is not below, don’t freak out, just go with the stock recommended torque spec. I experimented with a lot of different parts of the chassis with torque specs and the bolts/nuts below make the mosts difference on the red machine.  It may not seem like much, but it’s the little things on this bike that can make the Honda chassis FUN for the average guy. Out of all of the machines that I have experimented with on torque settings, this bike reacts the most to it, so pay attention to your nuts/bolts on your Honda! Follow the torque spec sheet below and make sure to blue Loc-Tite the bolts/nuts on each to ensure you have no issues down the road.


Rear Axle Nut (Qty. 1): 

Stock: 128 Nm

Updated Spec: 120 Nm

Fork Top Clamp Pinch Bolts (Qty. 4):

Stock: 22 Nm

Updated Spec: 19 Nm

Fork Bottom Clamp Pinch Bolts (Qty. 4):

Stock: 20 Nm

Updated Spec: 16-17 Nm

Swingarm Pivot Nut (Qty. 1):

Stock: 88 Nm

Updated Spec: 81 Nm


Front Engine Hanger Plate Bolts (Qty. 4):

Stock: 26 Nm

Updated Spec: 24 Nm


Front Engine Hanger Plate Nut (Qty. 1):

Stock: 54 Nm

Updated Spec: 51 Nm


Cylinder Head Hanger Bolt (Qty.2):

Stock 54 Nm

Updated Spec: 51 Nm


Cylinder head Hanger Plate Bolts (Qty 4):

Stock: 32 Nm

Updated Spec: 29 Nm


Shock Absorber Upper Mounting Bolt (Qty. 1): 

Stock: 44 Nm

Updated Spec: 42 Nm

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Traction Control/Map Switch: 

This is something I did not play with much the last couple years on the Honda CRF450R. Sometimes I get caught up with the chassis of this motorcycle so much that I forget to play with the other options Honda has to offer the rider. Below are a couple combinations of map/TC settings for you to try on certain types of tracks

Track Type/Condition: Afternoon when track still has some traction available, but also has loose dirt on top with acceleration chop in ruts. 

Map 1/TC1

With the map switch set to 1 and TC on 1 this gave me more control of the machine under throttle when track was going away slightly. Most of the time these conditions happened around lunch time (if track was open at 9AM) when lines were formed and ruts were established. With the TC on 1 through choppy ruts it allowed for more rear wheel traction and a less harsh feeling from the rear of the machine. I honestly wouldn’t rule this setting out in the morning when lines weren’t established and you need to find some traction on freshly tilled/watered dirt. If you’re looking to keep the low end excitement but gain just a hair less of throttle response try the map 1/TC 1 combo.

Track Type/Condition: Late afternoon when track is beat up with blown out lines with all the good traction pushed off, or the dirt has dug down far enough to where it’s hard pack.

Map 1/TC3 

With the map switch still on map 1 and TC now on 3 this gives the rider a much more heavier low end chugging feel (almost like a long rod feeling) with less excitement on 2nd-3rd gear roll on. Some of you may ask why not just put it on map 2 with TC on 1-2, but to me that combo gas me less connection from my throttle hand to rear wheel. It almost made the bike feel much heavier than I like. With map 1/TC3 the Honda CRF450R gave me a good throttle to rear wheel feel without it feeling heavy in corners. I felt like I had more tire contact patch on lean, under loose/hard dirt and that gave me confidence to roll throttle on earlier exiting corners. 

KTM 450 SX-F Chain And Axle Position Tips

Sometimes I get to work with people that are way smarter than me and that makes me smarter on the back end. Recently, Mark Johnson of REP Suspension threw out some adjustments/numbers for me to try on the KTM 450 SX-F and I came away with a better feeling on the track. Now this article isn’t for everyone, I understand that, but for those of you that like to tinker and feel differences on the track, I think these numbers will work for you and make you smile. It’s amazing what millimeters can do to a motocross machine and sometimes it’s overwhelming on what you can do. If you want to shut your brain off and just ride, I understand, but if you want to listen to your inner test rider, give these two measurements a try on your orange brigade. The difference in feel is fairly noticeable.

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Chain Slack: Most of you just do the three finger trick (and I am guilty of that as well), but if you want a little more rear wheel traction along with a more compliant shock feel look at your chain slack measurement a little harder. It doesn’t take that much to do to ensure that you have the right chain slack measurement. Getting the chain slack at measurement between 65-68mm allows there rear end to squat without binding the swinagarm upon acceleration. (*Measure from the end of the chain slider on swingarm*) I did a back to back test with a measurement of 60mm and 66mm and the difference was crazy. With 60mm of chain slack the shock felt harsh and I could feel the rear end almost had that packing sensation. When measured at 66mm the rear end had a freer feel and didn’t give me that harsh feeling when the shock was loaded. Going too loose, past the 68mm mark, gave me a feeling of less connection from the throttle to the rear wheel! Considered my mind blown! 

Axle Position: Axle position is important to the overall balance or ride attitude of the chassis. Too long can take some cornering away and too short can hurt straight line stability. So where is that sweet spot for the KTM? I have experimented with lengths before but when Mark suggested I tried 595mm, I wasn’t completely sold… Until I tried it… I was running around 608mm from the center swingarm pivot bolt to center of axle. With 595mm length I know gained a little more positive front wheel traction out of area 3 in corners and didn’t have as much squat in the rear on acceleration. This helped the ride attitude of the KTM 450 SX-F and gave me a more positive feel around three different types of tracks. Combined with a fork height of 5mm and this axle position the KTM now had a nice blend of stability and comfort that I haven’t felt before (especially on lean angle when on throttle). I use the Works Connection axle blocks or Ride Engineering axle blocks, as well as stock gearing, to achieve this measurement. I started with a new chain cut close to the desired length and allowed the natural stretch of the chain to achieve the 595mm measurement. If you’re around 2-3 mm within this measurement at any given time is close enough to achieve desired track results. When going 10mm or more off from this measurement is when you should feel changes to the KTM’s chassis character. 

2022 Yamaha YZ450F Baseline Settings/Tips

The 2021 and 2022 Yamaha YZ450F’s are almost identical minus some suspension valving changes (increased mid-high speed damping), lighter rear wheel with a spoke lacing pattern that is a 3X not a 2X, lighter sprocket, as well as a lighter chain. For a bike that used to get some shade thrown its way in the professional motocross racing world, this Yamaha YZ450F is now the 2021 AMA Motocross Champ! This bike also has treated me really well in my racing goals the past couple years. I have won a Loretta Lynn’s title as well as a Vet World Championship on the exact same machine and haven’t had a huge maintenance list to go through.

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Is the Yamaha YZ450F the slimmest bike? No. Does it corner the best? No. Does it have the best cockpit? Absolutely not. I am the type of rider who would rather have stability than the best cornering machine! The Yamaha is a great middle of the road machine that does everything good. Below are some key settings, as well as mods, that I have rolled over into my 2022 YZ450F since I picked it up a while ago. These can help you drop your lap times, give you more comfort on the track and make a good bike, GREAT!

Suspension:If you’re sticking with stock valving the 2022 Yamaha YZ450F’s suspension, just know that Yamaha did some significant changes to the valving to get some extra hold up. This means that the baseline settings from 2021 are null and void. Yes, the fork is still slightly soft (once suspension is broke in) at times under hard braking at speed. Going slower on the action, stiffening the compression, as well as lowering he fork in the triple clamp really helps the whole bike remain planted around the track (with less low front end feel coming into corners). The comfort that the KYB SSS fork/suspension has is unmatched and the track toughness it provides makes your life so much less stressful on set up. This setting below will work for most riders ranging from 165-195 pounds with no gear.

Fork: 

Height: 3mm

Compression: 7 clicks out

Rebound: 9-10 clicks out

Shock:

Sag: 104mm

Low Speed Compression: 8 clicks out

High Speed Compression: 7/8 turns out

Rebound: 10-11 clicks out

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Important Spec Adjustments: 

Chain Slack: 55-60mm

Recommended Torque Settings: These recommended torque settings help the Yamaha's chassis be slightly more compliant over braking bumps/acceleration bumps.

Front Axle 80 ft. Lbs.

Pinch Bolts 15 ft. Lbs. 

Rear Axle Nut: 85-90 ft. Lbs. 

Engine/Power Tuner App: I have tried several maps on the YZ450F, but have always came back to the two below. The stock engine has a lot of bark (rpm response) from 0-10% throttle opening and for the tracks that we have out here (on the west coast) it’s too much at times. For you east coast riders try the “TP Magic Map1” as that should be enough bottom to mid range delivery to get you out of that soft soil, yet keep it manageable/linear to hold onto for a 20 minute moto (YES, I AM JEALOUS OF YOUR DIRT!). For all the rest of you, try the TP 3.0 map (on Keeferinctesting.com) as that is the map that I use 80% of the time. The linear/easy to roll on throttle delivery along with the longer pulling power that this map has makes it a tractor around the track. This makes connection to the rear wheel much more apparent with this TP version. Yes, these maps will also work on your 2019 YZ450F, so give them a try.…

Seat: If there is one problem area of the Yamaha it is the seat. The seat still breaks down quickly and can feel clapped out. This makes you feel like you're riding “in” the Yamaha and not on top. I am sticking with a standard height/density GUTS foam which is actually a little firmer than the OEM foam. The foam density will not break down as much as the OEM foam. 

MX3S or Pirelli MX32 Mid-Soft Front Tire: Yamaha will not want to hear this, but I feel the Yamaha corners better with a Dunlop MX3S or a Pirelli MX32 Mid-Soft front tire rather than the stock MX33. If you’re having trouble with initial lean into corners, get yourself a Dunlop MX3S or Pirelli MX32 Mid-Soft front and thank me later.

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Gearing:I tried a 13/50 gearing set up for all you novice riders, but it didn't work as good as the stock 13/49 set up. The stock gearing is just fine for 90% of tracks because the Yamaha’s engine has so much torque that it can pull third gear. Yes, even for you novice riders! Third gear is that “lugable” that you will not stall through corners, just make sure to cover the clutch lever.

Triple Clamps/Offset: The Yamaha YZ450F doesn't need aftermarket triple clamps nor does it need an offset change (but I am trying some aftermarket clamps soon to see if it causes any rigidity). The rigidity balance that the stock clamp has is a blend of comfort and performance that is hard to find with aftermarket clamps. Still having a hard time in corners? Don’t purchase clamps yet, chill down, simply go to a 102mm shock sag setting or go back to a fork height of 5mm. I suggest trying one or the other, not both at the same time. This keeps balance as well as keep the superb bump absorption of the chassis/clamps. Some other machines accept aftermarket clamps better than others, but this Yamaha has a lot of comfort/performance with the stock clamp. Don’t go backwards on your set up by purchasing parts you don’t need!

Muffler: I go back and forth between the Pro Circuit, FMF and Akrapovic muffler systems if I am not running the stock muffler. All these systems are smoother off the bottom end and pull more in the mid range than the stocker. I like this because it can actually calm the chassis down a little on acceleration bumps. There is nothing wrong with the stock system, but if you MUST get an aftermarket system go with one of these two brands. If you can find one these days! Tough to do right now. 

Vortex ECU: I haven’t been that vocal about this mod because it’s so hard to justify spending $800-1000 bucks on an ignition when the Yamaha ECU/Power Tuner app is so good. However after working on a ton of settings on the standard ECU, I decided to try the Vortex to see if I could make the power broader versus the stock ECU. I have worked on settings with Chad from XPR and I can say that we have spent many days at the track trying to make the Yamaha not spool up so quick (light or short crank/rod feel). You might be asking yourself, “what the hell is spool up”? The Yamaha has a quick revving light crank feel and sometimes that feeling can cause lack of rear end traction when exiting corners. The rear tire can light up when trying to exit corners under hard acceleration and that can get tough to manage at the end of a long moto. Now this is great when traction is high and the dirt is deep, but once the track gets rough, this Yamaha can be too much to handle compared to a KTM or Husqvarna. Adjusting the ECU via Power Tuner App helps a little, but for safety reasons Yamaha only allows certain parameters, but the Vortex ECU has a wider range of adjustment. Adding the Vortex ECU helps lessen engine braking and also gives the Yamaha a longer power character (almost a long rod feel). Now usually when you get less engine braking in any particular engine character you might feel a more free feeling engine, but with the mapping that Chad created, it makes the power more controllable with less pitching off throttle. The maps that we came up with help rear wheel traction out of corners, allows the rider to ride in third gear even easier, yet allows me to use second gear longer out of corners. Once I got a map (with the Vortex) that wasn’t too powerful, I have noticed an improvement in chassis feel when the track gets rough. The YZ450F can be pushed harder through bumpy conditions now that the delivery of the Yamaha is much broader with less engine braking. I would recommend anyone looking to get more connection as well as more power to get with Chad and ask for the Keefer World Vet map.

2022 Yamaha YZ250F First Impression

The Yamaha YZ250F doesn’t have that many changes to it for 2022. Yamaha lightened up the hub, sprocket, chain and they installed a 2.15 rear rim (instead of the 1.85 2021 rear rim), as well as went to Dunlop MX33 tires with a 110 rear tire in stock trim. The fork’s low speed damping was increased to try and create less pitching off throttle and there you have it. The 2022 YZ250F. Did it make a difference on the track? Here are some points to ponder before your purchase.  

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Engine: The 2022 YZ250F still has the best torque in class (no change there), but it did lose just a little bottom end roll on power back in 2021. Don’t fret though as this engine is still vet friendly and very easy to lug around compared to the other more exciting top end/over-rev competitors (KTM,KX, CRF). The low to mid range pulling power is unmatched and if you’re coming off of a 2020 YZ250F, you’ll feel a free-er feel to the engine on de-cel on the 2021-2022, which makes for less pitching coming into corners. Second gear roll on is still very usable as is third gear lugability, but I was looking for more top end pull from second and third gear so I used the map shown below (Keefer Top End 1 Map). The Yamaha still has a loud note to the muffler and is still a little raspy. The muffler’s volume is increased, which does give it a deeper tone. 

Chassis: With the updated suspension on the 2022 the chassis actually feels more compliant in braking bumps leading into ruts, which makes it easier for the rider to pick his line and get on the gas sooner through area two of the corner. There is less pitching when on/off throttle and that leaves a sensation of an even more planted feel than the 2021 machine did. After a few days at a different tracks with the 2022 (compared to the 2021), I could really feel how much added front end bite I had compared to the 2021. When you ride the 2021 back to back with the 2022 you can feel like the chassis is firmer, yet has more comfort/connection to the ground. I suspect this has everything to do with the fork being firmer (see below). Usually when I get a firmer sensation from a chassis, I get some harshness/vibration/deflection, yet with the 2022 YZ250F I DO NOT get any of that. The firmer feel of the 2022 actually helps the Yamaha feel better planted to the ground on straight line stability. Riding the hills of Glen Helen back to back with the old model proved to me that the new Yamaha is catered to faster riders who want to push themselves some. 

Suspension: The 2022 fork feels firmer (compared the 2021), holds up more in the stroke, but isn’t as active as previous years KYB settings. That less active feel translates into a front/rear end that allows the rider to hit braking bumps harder without upsetting the chassis. There is some added bite to acceleration bumps when the fork is light in the stroke, but adding a little more rebound to the fork will help this feel. I still had to go a little firmer on both ends for my style of riding, but it didn’t take long at all to feel comfortable. Track Toughness of the 2022 Yamaha YZ250F is as good if not slightly better than the 2021. *See Spec Chart Below* 

Ergonomics: The ergonomics are still a little small for my liking. I would love for Yamaha to move their pegs down and back 5-10mm and I think it would really open the cockpit up more. I have tried aftermarket Raptor Titanium pegs on the Yamaha that move them down and back and it really helped me get on the balls of my feet more and feel relaxed when seated. I love the handlebar shape (Pro Taper SX Race equivalent) and the seat although nice at first, will break down around 20 hours. 

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Baseline Suspension Settings: Below are the settings I think is a great starting point for riders between 160-190 pounds. This setting will get you a blend of the most performance as well as comfort. 

Fork:

Comp: 8-10 clicks out

Rebound: 10 clicks out

Height: 5mm or 3mm on faster sandier tracks

Shock: 

Sag: 104mm

L/S Comp: 9 clicks out

H/S Comp: 7/8 out

Rebound:  10 clicks out 

Maps: Below are the two maps that are loaded into my test bike that will give you a blend of what I feel this bike needs. 


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