2022 Husqvarna FC450 Baseline Settings/Top Mods

The Husqvarna FC450 is unchanged for 2022 besides some Brembo pieces that replaced the Magura ones (clutch/slave cylinder). The FC450 is one of the friendliest bikes in this class to ride, but to me needs to wake up a little down low to make this white stallion feel lighter. Sometimes what is on paper is not what is felt on the track so try these mods below to get some added power and comfort out of your FC450! 

Suspension: The factory fork and shock settings are soft for the average sized 450 rider (180 pounds) on the 2022 FC450 so we did go a little bit stiffer on air pressure and softer on compression settings, but have found improved results in comfort, not just performance. All three test riders (155, 170, 195 pounds) that tried this setting agreed that the bike/chassis was calmer on acceleration and de-cel bumps. This setting will give the Husqvarna better hold up as well as help the overall balance of the bike from feeling stinkbug coming into corners. Our 195 pound rider preferred a 48N/m shock spring with the recommended shock settings below.

Fork:

Air Pressure: 10.9 bar

Compression: 14-15 out

Rebound: 11 out

Fork Height: 5mm

Shock:

L/S Compression: 11-12 clicks out

H/S Compression: 1-3/4 turns out

Rebound: 12 clicks out

Sag: 104-105mm

Shock: (195 pounds and over)

Spring Rate: 48N/m

L/S Compression: 14 clicks out

H/S Compression: 2 turns out

Rebound: 13 clicks out

Sag: 104-105mm

Rider Triangle: The standard Pro Taper handlebar that comes on the FC450 is low and flat, but fits the Husqvarna’s cockpit very well for most. I did want more height from my bar when I stood up, so I went with a Pro Taper Race Team bend and this helped me get over the front of the bike more when standing. The Race Team bar worked well for riders from 5’8 to 6’1. The Race Team bend comes in a crossbar or crossbar-less style and is (W)810 (H)91 (R)49 (S)52. If you’re looking for a better stand up feel from your Husqvarna look for handlebar close to this measurement. If you do like the stock bar try cutting the bar down to 805mm instead of the longer/standard 811mm. This will help you corner.  

ECU Settings: The 2022 FC450 has a locked ECU box so getting inside to remap is not going to happen like it did two years ago. The good news is that the ECU is much cleaner and should NOT need to be remapped unless you need more power. In that case, you will need to go to a Vortex ECU mapped by Jamie at Twisted or Chad at XPR. Those are my two go to gentlemen to make usable power. Sure there are others out there, but these two guys made the most out of every Autrian bike that I have tested. If you are on a stock ECU, map 2 is my preferred standard map in most conditions as it comes on a little sooner and pulls slightly harder than map 1.

Gearing: The 2022 FC450 comes with a 13/49 gearing ratio. This gearing should be just fine for most tracks, but if you want a little more mid range engine recovery and free-er feeling shock on acceleration, a 14/52 gearing ratio works well. The 14/52 gearing will require a new chain length and I usually go with this gearing when riding tracks similar to Glen Helen (aka faster choppy tracks) to settle the rear end under load. 

Chassis: Aftermarket engine mounts are all the rage right now and some of you may not have the money to spend on a pair of engine mounts for your Husqvarna. I will say that I don’t feel like the Husqvarna’s chassis is stiff, but I have heard from other lighter riders that it can be at times, so I decided to play around with torque specs and came up with a 28Nm setting on each bolt for both engine hangers. This band aid will give you a more planted sensation when on throttle while leaning the FC450 through sweepers and fast straights. You will have to make sure that all engine mount bolts have blue Loctite to ensure they do not back out. You can also try torquing your swingarm pivot bolt to 95 Nm (instead of 100Nm) to help rear end traction out of corners. The downside to doing these mods is that the chassis will flex a little more, so if you’re riding deep tilled tracks this modification may be too “flexy” for some (especially when chopping throttle).

Rear Axle Block Kit: Going to a Works Connection axle block kit or Ride Engineering axle block kit will get rid of the fixed left axle block on the stock Husqvarna’s axle. This will help the rear end to move more freely under throttle and improve the shock’s comfort on acceleration chop. Rear wheel placement isn’t as crucial on the Husqvarna as it is on some other 450’s we have tested so if your rear wheel placement is somewhere in the middle of the axle block marks, that will be sufficient for these recommended suspension settings.

TD Exhaust Flange: The Twisted Development exhaust flanges are shaped differently than the stock OEM flange, which can change the engine character of the KTM 450 SX-F. I went through several during testing and found out a size/shape that can actually enhance the low to mid range power character. Compared to the stock piece the TD Performance flange will give you better throttle response through area 2-3 (mid to exit) of corners. Another advantage to me is that the TD flange helps pulling power out of corners as well and helps third gear lugability. The TD flange just helps the RPM’s pick up quicker, which in turn makes the KTM feel lighter when the track gets bumpy. There is no need to remap your ECU and it takes minutes to install.  

FMF 4.1 Muffler System: To me, FMF makes one of the best muffler systems for the FC450. There are some other companies that have other bikes dialed in more, but on the Husqvarna/KTM side, FMF has got it down. You will get more low to mid RPM response as well as more mid range pulling power. Top end is increased plus the over-rev is as good as stock. It is one of the few times that I was impressed because it was actually better than stock in almost all areas. The downside is that you must keep up on muffler packing (every 10-12 engine hours) because the FMF will blow out and that could damage your expensive titanium can. Did I mention that you will lose almost two pounds with this system? If you slap on spring forks you will be gaining almost three pounds. You can get most of that back down with a 4.1 Titanium FMF Muffler system.

2022 Kawasaki KX450 Baseline Settings

Engine Feel: Just in case you were trying to decide on if the 2022 KX450 is better than the 2021, don’t stress because it’s the same bike! The 2022 engine character has great connection to the rear wheel, a smooth linear power that is smooth with snappy low end response, yet never seems like it has too much mid to top end, but does have more engine braking than a couple other 450 in its class. The mid range has a nice amount of meat and the smoother pulling power of the top end/over-rev is noticeable on longer straights or up hills. If you’re thinking about which coupler to use, (without changing the mapping) try the black coupler as it will help smooth out the low end rpm response (just know that if your KX450 is too touchy down low for you then this attached map below is the ticket). The KX didn’t lose mid to top end pulling power with the black coupler (compared to the stock green one) and I could ride the KX450 more aggressively through corners with the smoother power. However, if you have access to a KX Calibration Tool then see below for a map that helps low end as well as helps lengthen mid-top end.  

Weight Feeling (Chassis): I am able to lay the KX450 down with ease (initial lean) and cut down under a blown out rut fairly easy but once in the rut the KX still feels long. I also get a little twitch on de-cel (which can be fixed with a fork spring change), but it wasn't a horrible or un-easy feeling. Straight line stability is still the same straight and arrow Kawasaki feel that you expect, but with added traction. The frame absorption is the best attribute of this machine and other manufacturers should take notice of how well this KX450 feels when the track goes to crap. The whole bike feels friendlier than any other 2021 machine on square edge and the only other one that comes close in comfort is the Yamaha YZ450F. 

Suspension Comfort: The 2022 Kawasaki is so much more balanced than previous generation KX450’s and I was able to set the front end down where I wanted to without feeling like the front end was going to snap my wrists. The fork has tons of comfort, but is also too soft/low on de-cel for my liking. At tracks with hills or sizable jumps, the fork was too low in the stroke and bottomed too many times. Going stiffer on the compression only hurt de-cel bump comfort, so I settled on going slower on the rebound, which helped some. The shock is soft as well on slap down landings, but going eight clicks (two full turns) in helped keep the rear end up and thus helps wallow feeling. This setting will get you by on most tracks, but do yourself a favor and read the recommended suspension settings below for optimal balance of the KX450. The recommended settings below will help with hold up and ride comfort.

Cornering/Chassis: The 2022 KX450 is a “neutral” cornering machine. I am able to get more rear wheel bite than a Yamaha YZ450F, but I am still able to turn on the front end fairly well. I had a rear end steering tester with me when we did the intro and he mentioned how well it backed into corners still. I thought front end bite from area 2-3 of corners was still acceptable, but got even better with a heavier fork spring. I say “area 2-3” because the KX450 still does have a slight vague feel on entrance of corners, so increasing spring rate prevents the front end from diving, which in turn prevents your front tire from pushing on entrance. 

Rider Triangle: The footpeg to seat to handlebar ratio is great! The seat is flat, which puts me more on top of the machine and the Renthal 839 Fatbar makes the bike feel very friendly for a wide range of riders. 

 Brakes: Do yourself a favor and get a 2021 KX250 rear disc and hanger. The 250mm disc is too grabby and really screws up my corners/braking points. The rear end will slide when I don't expect it and this causes my corners to be herky/jerky. Go back to the 240mm disc on the 21 KX250 and live life happier. 

2021 KX450 Suspension Settings:

After almost 25 hours on the 22 KX450 these are the best settings for a wide range of riders. This setting is based around comfort and will give the rider the most confidence. Use this set up until you get a re-valve. Once you re-valve, use recommended suspension tuners spec. 

Fork: 

 Spring Rate .51 N/m Spring (.50 N/m is stock) *If B level rider and over 200 pounds .52 N/m springs are also a great option*

 Oil Level: Standard

 Compression:10-11 clicks out

 Rebound Range: 9-10 clicks out

 Fork Height: 3 mm

 Shock:

 Spring Rate: .54 N/m (190 pounds or over, try .56 N/m)

 Low Speed Compression: 13 clicks out

 High Speed Compression: 1 1/8 turns out

 Rebound: 10 out

Coupler/ECU Setting:

The engine on the 2022 KX450 in stock is smooth off the bottom and easy to ride, but does have a little dip from mid to top, so I created this map to help fill that dip in and make it pull slightly longer. You will notice even more of a linear (more control at low RPM) pull down low without any jerky feeling through corners. With this map installed it helped settle the chassis down through long ruts and improved overall traction feel. In the testing world we call this "cornering stability". With this map installed it helped the 2022 KX450's cornering stability, especially on intermediate terrain. You can use any coupler with the Kawasaki FI Calibration Tool to create this map. 

Aftermarket Mufflers: I have tried a lot of mufflers with the KX450 and to me the FMF and PC have the most noticeable change to the engine character of the KX450. As ugly as the stock muffler is, it’s a very good muffler for a broad range of power delivery. However, when you go to a FMF muffler, do yourself a favor and look at this article on how to make it rubber mounted. https://www.keeferinctesting.com/offroad-testing/2020/10/8/how-to-save-your-subframe-on-your-2019-2021-kawasaki-kx450. 

 We have broken a subframe tab because the FMF is a solid mount system, not rubber mounted. This doesn’t necessarily mean that the subframe tab will not break if it’s rubber mounted as we have broken the tab on the subframe with the stock muffler as well (which is rubber mounted).

2022 Yamaha YZ250F Baseline Settings

The 2022 Yamaha YZ250F doesn’t have the changes on paper that you would like, but the bLU cRU did do some minor updates to help try and lighten the YZ250F up some. Yamaha lightened up the hub, sprocket, chain and they installed a 2.15 rear rim (instead of the 1.85 2021 rear rim), as well as went to Dunlop MX33 tires with a 110 rear tire in stock trim. The fork’s low speed damping was increased to try and create less pitching off throttle and there you have it. The 2022 YZ250F. Here are a couple baseline settings to try out on your own in case you might be lost.  

Suspension:

The 2022 suspension feels firmer (compared the 2021), holds up more in the stroke slightly, yet still has that KYB free feeling movement (unlike a Showa feel where it moves less with a dead feel) that is very active on the track. That active feel translates into a a front/rear end that follows the ground well under small chatter and bigger/softer braking bumps. I did have to go a little firmer still once broken in on both ends for my style of riding, but it didn’t take long at all to feel comfortable. Track Toughness of the 2022 Yamaha YZ250F is as good as the 21, but if you’re north of 185 pounds you might want to drop in a set of heavier fork springs 48N/mm fork springs and live happy! 

Fork:

Spring Rate: 47 N/mm (Over 185 use 48N/mm springs)

Height: 4mm

Compression: 8 clicks out 

Rebound: 10 clicks out 

Shock:

Spring Rate: 56 N/mm

Sag: 104mm

High Speed Compression: 7/8-1 turn out

Low Speed Compression: 8 clicks out

Rebound: 9 clicks out 

Mapping: 

If you’re looking for less engine braking and/or more mid-top end pull here are two maps to choose from.

Mid-Top End Map

FMF 4.1 Titanium Slip On Muffler System: Although the stock exhaust is VERY hard to beat in terms of performance, it can get a little raspy once you hit around 10 hours. Yes, that quick! The FMF 4.1 slip on system gives the bike a throaty tune and a factory look, but with a tunable engine character. We have found that running the system without the spark arrestor insert takes away too much back pressure, which causes the YZ250F to lose some of that bottom end power we come to love out of this bike. We prefer the system with the spark arrestor installed because it helps keep most of the stock bottom end, keeps the YZ250F quieter the bike, and can even make it legal to ride on the trails. Going to this will NOT give you more bottom end than the stock system, but you will get more mid range pull as well as more top end. Not to mention a much better muffler pitch!

2022 Honda CRF450R baseline Settings

Even though the Honda hasn’t changed much for 2022, Showa as well as Honda worked on creating more hold up from the suspension. This lead us to create another baseline setting for you 2022 owners. The ECU has also been updated, but there is still some lean pop on de-cel so we are currently working/looking into one type of stock ECU reflash to see if we can get it better. However, compared to the 2021, the ECU is much cleaner upon throttle delivery and has more connection to the rear wheel. We also took it a step further this year and matched up some traction control settings to map settings for you to try at your local track. There are two combinations below that we think can help you lower your lap times and make big red easier to ride. As always if you have questions about your new Honda, we will always try to help, so email us at kris@keeferinctesting.com if you have some thoughts/questions.  

Optional Suspension Setting: 

The stock suspension for 2022 is a firmer feel and to us that is a step in the right direction. However it still might be too soft for you if you’re anywhere over 180 pounds. Honda has a 5.0 N/m fork spring that is adequate for most, but even with the having more low speed compression damping for 2022, once broken in it might be a tad soft for riders north of 180. Out back the 54 N/m shock spring is a little soft, but the 2022 valving is much better on high speed compression so going to a stiffer spring was not warranted for my 170 pound frame. If you’re over 190 pounds then I would recommend going to a 56 N/mm spring with the correlating clicker adjustments. This will help the Honda from riding too low in the stroke under acceleration when you’re pushing 200 pounds. However, with the 54 N/mm spring and the 2022 valving the CRF450R has more rear wheel traction and added comfort on small chop so trying the clicker adjustments set to the 54 N/mm spring is worth a shot first. Remember, if you’re near 200 pounds and not into spending more money on a re-valve at this time, simply get some heavier springs and try this setting: 

 Fork: (170-200 pounds)

 Spring Rate: 51 N/mm

 Height: Flush

 Comp: 10 out

 Rebound: 12 out

Shock: (170-180 pounds)

 Spring Rate: 54 N/mm 

 L/S Comp: 11 clicks out

 H/S Comp: 2 1/2 clicks out

 Rebound: 9-10 clicks out

 Sag: 105mm

Shock: (180-200 pounds)

 Spring Rate: 56 N/mm 

 L/S Comp: 13 clicks out

 H/S Comp: 2 3/4 clicks out

 Rebound: 11 clicks out

 Sag: 105mm

Torque Specs:

I still prefer going to these torque specs on the 2022 Honda CRF450R. I spent a few more days experimenting with torque settings on the 2022 and have came up with the spec chart below. What these updated torque specs do for you is slightly improve the bump compliancy and front/rear wheel traction of the 2022 CRF450R. This isn’t a cure all, but you will feel a little extra comfort in your red ride. If you don’t see a torque spec on a portion of the bike that is not below, don’t freak out, just go with the stock recommended torque spec. I experimented with a lot of different parts of the chassis with torque specs and the bolts/nuts below make the mosts difference on the red machine.  It may not seem like much, but it’s the little things on this bike that can make the Honda chassis FUN for the average guy. Out of all of the machines that I have experimented with on torque settings, this bike reacts the most to it, so pay attention to your nuts/bolts on your Honda! Follow the torque spec sheet below and make sure to blue Loc-Tite the bolts/nuts on each to ensure you have no issues down the road.

Rear Axle Nut (Qty. 1): 

Stock: 128 Nm

Updated Spec: 120 Nm

Fork Top Clamp Pinch Bolts (Qty. 4):

Stock: 22 Nm

Updated Spec: 19 Nm

Fork Bottom Clamp Pinch Bolts (Qty. 4):

Stock: 20 Nm

Updated Spec: 16-17 Nm

Swingarm Pivot Nut (Qty. 1):

Stock: 88 Nm

Updated Spec: 81 Nm

Front Engine Hanger Plate Bolts (Qty. 4):

Stock: 26 Nm

Updated Spec: 24 Nm

Front Engine Hanger Plate Nut (Qty. 1):

Stock: 54 Nm

Updated Spec: 51 Nm

Cylinder Head Hanger Bolt (Qty.2):

Stock 54 Nm

Updated Spec: 51 Nm

Cylinder head Hanger Plate Bolts (Qty 4):

Stock: 32 Nm

Updated Spec: 29 Nm

Shock Absorber Upper Mounting Bolt (Qty. 1): 

Stock: 44 Nm

Updated Spec: 42 Nm

Traction Control/Map Switch: 

This is something I did not play with much the last couple years on the Honda CRF450R. Sometimes I get caught up with the chassis of this motorcycle so much that I forget to play with the other options Honda has to offer the rider. Below are a couple combinations of map/TC settings for you to try on certain types of tracks. 

Track Type/Condition: Afternoon when track still has some traction available, but also has loose dirt on top with acceleration chop in ruts. 

Map 1/TC1

With the map switch set to 1 and TC on 1 this gave me more control of the machine under throttle when track was going away slightly. Most of the time these conditions happened around lunch time (if track was open at 9AM) when lines were formed and ruts were established. With the TC on 1 through choppy ruts it allowed for more rear wheel traction and a less harsh feeling from the rear of the machine. I honestly wouldn’t rule this setting out in the morning when lines weren’t established and you need to find some traction on freshly tilled/watered dirt. If you’re looking to keep the low end excitement but gain just a hair less of throttle response try the map 1/TC 1 combo.

Track Type/Condition: Late afternoon when track is beat up with blown out lines with all the good traction pushed off, or the dirt has dug down far enough to where it’s hard pack.

Map 1/TC3 

With the map switch still on map 1 and TC now on 3 this gives the rider a much more heavier low end chugging feel (almost like a long rod feeling) with less excitement on 2nd-3rd gear roll on. Some of you may ask why not just put it on map 2 with TC on 1-2, but to me that combo gas me less connection from my throttle hand to rear wheel. It almost made the bike feel much heavier than I like. With map 1/TC3 the Honda CRF450R gave me a good throttle to rear wheel feel without it feeling heavy in corners. I felt like I had more tire contact patch on lean, under loose/hard dirt and that gave me confidence to roll throttle on earlier exiting corners. 

2022 Yamaha YZ450F Baseline Settings/Tips

The 2021 and 2022 Yamaha YZ450F’s are almost identical minus some suspension valving changes (increased mid-high speed damping), lighter rear wheel with a spoke lacing pattern that is a 3X not a 2X, lighter sprocket, as well as a lighter chain. For a bike that used to get some shade thrown its way in the professional motocross racing world, this Yamaha YZ450F is now the 2021 AMA Motocross Champ! This bike also has treated me really well in my racing goals the past couple years. I have won a Loretta Lynn’s title as well as a Vet World Championship on the exact same machine and haven’t had a huge maintenance list to go through.

Is the Yamaha YZ450F the slimmest bike? No. Does it corner the best? No. Does it have the best cockpit? Absolutely not. I am the type of rider who would rather have stability than the best cornering machine! The Yamaha is a great middle of the road machine that does everything good. Below are some key settings, as well as mods, that I have rolled over into my 2022 YZ450F since I picked it up a while ago. These can help you drop your lap times, give you more comfort on the track and make a good bike, GREAT!

Suspension:If you’re sticking with stock valving the 2022 Yamaha YZ450F’s suspension, just know that Yamaha did some significant changes to the valving to get some extra hold up. This means that the baseline settings from 2021 are null and void. Yes, the fork is still slightly soft (once suspension is broke in) at times under hard braking at speed. Going slower on the action, stiffening the compression, as well as lowering he fork in the triple clamp really helps the whole bike remain planted around the track (with less low front end feel coming into corners). The comfort that the KYB SSS fork/suspension has is unmatched and the track toughness it provides makes your life so much less stressful on set up. This setting below will work for most riders ranging from 165-195 pounds with no gear.

Fork: 

Height: 3mm

Compression: 7 clicks out

Rebound: 9-10 clicks out

Shock:

Sag: 104mm

Low Speed Compression: 8 clicks out

High Speed Compression: 7/8 turns out

Rebound: 10-11 clicks out

Important Spec Adjustments: 

Chain Slack: 55-60mm

Recommended Torque Settings: These recommended torque settings help the Yamaha's chassis be slightly more compliant over braking bumps/acceleration bumps.

Front Axle 80 ft. Lbs.

Pinch Bolts 15 ft. Lbs. 

Rear Axle Nut: 85-90 ft. Lbs. 

Engine/Power Tuner App: I have tried several maps on the YZ450F, but have always came back to the two below. The stock engine has a lot of bark (rpm response) from 0-10% throttle opening and for the tracks that we have out here (on the west coast) it’s too much at times. For you east coast riders try the “TP Magic Map1” as that should be enough bottom to mid range delivery to get you out of that soft soil, yet keep it manageable/linear to hold onto for a 20 minute moto (YES, I AM JEALOUS OF YOUR DIRT!). For all the rest of you, try the TP 3.0 map (on Keeferinctesting.com) as that is the map that I use 80% of the time. The linear/easy to roll on throttle delivery along with the longer pulling power that this map has makes it a tractor around the track. This makes connection to the rear wheel much more apparent with this TP version. Yes, these maps will also work on your 2019 YZ450F, so give them a try.…

Seat: If there is one problem area of the Yamaha it is the seat. The seat still breaks down quickly and can feel clapped out. This makes you feel like you're riding “in” the Yamaha and not on top. I am sticking with a standard height/density GUTS foam which is actually a little firmer than the OEM foam. The foam density will not break down as much as the OEM foam. 

MX3S or Pirelli MX32 Mid-Soft Front Tire: Yamaha will not want to hear this, but I feel the Yamaha corners better with a Dunlop MX3S or a Pirelli MX32 Mid-Soft front tire rather than the stock MX33. If you’re having trouble with initial lean into corners, get yourself a Dunlop MX3S or Pirelli MX32 Mid-Soft front and thank me later.

Gearing:I tried a 13/50 gearing set up for all you novice riders, but it didn't work as good as the stock 13/49 set up. The stock gearing is just fine for 90% of tracks because the Yamaha’s engine has so much torque that it can pull third gear. Yes, even for you novice riders! Third gear is that “lugable” that you will not stall through corners, just make sure to cover the clutch lever.

Triple Clamps/Offset: The Yamaha YZ450F doesn't need aftermarket triple clamps nor does it need an offset change (but I am trying some aftermarket clamps soon to see if it causes any rigidity). The rigidity balance that the stock clamp has is a blend of comfort and performance that is hard to find with aftermarket clamps. Still having a hard time in corners? Don’t purchase clamps yet, chill down, simply go to a 102mm shock sag setting or go back to a fork height of 5mm. I suggest trying one or the other, not both at the same time. This keeps balance as well as keep the superb bump absorption of the chassis/clamps. Some other machines accept aftermarket clamps better than others, but this Yamaha has a lot of comfort/performance with the stock clamp. Don’t go backwards on your set up by purchasing parts you don’t need!

Muffler: I go back and forth between the Pro Circuit, FMF and Akrapovic muffler systems if I am not running the stock muffler. All these systems are smoother off the bottom end and pull more in the mid range than the stocker. I like this because it can actually calm the chassis down a little on acceleration bumps. There is nothing wrong with the stock system, but if you MUST get an aftermarket system go with one of these two brands. If you can find one these days! Tough to do right now. 

Vortex ECU: I haven’t been that vocal about this mod because it’s so hard to justify spending $800-1000 bucks on an ignition when the Yamaha ECU/Power Tuner app is so good. However after working on a ton of settings on the standard ECU, I decided to try the Vortex to see if I could make the power broader versus the stock ECU. I have worked on settings with Chad from XPR and I can say that we have spent many days at the track trying to make the Yamaha not spool up so quick (light or short crank/rod feel). You might be asking yourself, “what the hell is spool up”? The Yamaha has a quick revving light crank feel and sometimes that feeling can cause lack of rear end traction when exiting corners. The rear tire can light up when trying to exit corners under hard acceleration and that can get tough to manage at the end of a long moto. Now this is great when traction is high and the dirt is deep, but once the track gets rough, this Yamaha can be too much to handle compared to a KTM or Husqvarna. Adjusting the ECU via Power Tuner App helps a little, but for safety reasons Yamaha only allows certain parameters, but the Vortex ECU has a wider range of adjustment. Adding the Vortex ECU helps lessen engine braking and also gives the Yamaha a longer power character (almost a long rod feel). Now usually when you get less engine braking in any particular engine character you might feel a more free feeling engine, but with the mapping that Chad created, it makes the power more controllable with less pitching off throttle. The maps that we came up with help rear wheel traction out of corners, allows the rider to ride in third gear even easier, yet allows me to use second gear longer out of corners. Once I got a map (with the Vortex) that wasn’t too powerful, I have noticed an improvement in chassis feel when the track gets rough. The YZ450F can be pushed harder through bumpy conditions now that the delivery of the Yamaha is much broader with less engine braking. I would recommend anyone looking to get more connection as well as more power to get with Chad and ask for the Keefer World Vet map.

Action And Reaction (Shock)

With every action there is a reaction right? This is no different when it comes to dirt bikes and the mechanics of each change/adjustment. Since suspension is always a hot topic with motocross machines, I thought why not give you guys some insight on what each change point/adjustment available to you is on the shock, as well as what it can do out on the track (good or bad). The action of one change can have reaction on the opposite end of the machine as well, not just the focused area. Here is a breakdown of action and reaction, shock edition. If you’re looking for the “fork” portion of this article, check it out here: https://www.keeferinctesting.com/offroad-testing/2021/6/22/action-and-reaction-fork

Shock: 

Low Speed Compression: Low speed compression damping will allow your shock’s stroke to stiffen or soften when compressed at lower load situations. 

Action/Stiffer: Stiffening the LSC can allow your bike’s ride attitude to be flatter with less pitching on/off throttle, can help with wallow feeling through rollers, can help keep rear end down on initial bump impact, bump absorption can improve if shock is riding too low in the stroke, give the rider a firmer feel to allow them to ride more aggressively (more performance).

Reaction/Stiffer: Going too stiff can cause harshness or a too firm feel when hitting bumps, can cause deflection when shock is light in its stroke (off throttle situations), can cause less rear wheel traction (especially on lean angle), can give rider a less plush feel on bump impact, less movement in rear end which can give a rigid feel through seat, can overpower fork and allow bike to be front end heavy down hills.

Action/Softer: Softening the LSC can increase plushness, allow the shock to move further down in the stroke under load or increase comfort on initial bump impact, make the action of the stroke faster, can increase rear wheel traction (especially on lean angle), give a more supple feel through the seat when accelerating out of choppy corners. 

Reaction/Softer: Allow the shock to go through stroke too much (low rear feel), which can create a fast moving rear end feel, less damping feel on bump impact, create a low rear end feel that allows the rear end to kick you on braking bumps (which can make transfer of weight to front end, too abrupt off throttle), oversteering through area 2 of corners because rear end unloads to fast on de-cel which causes front end to knife, make fork feel too high on throttle, which can make fork deflect, causes shock tp bottoming more than 2-3 times per lap.

High Speed Compression: High speed compression damping will allow your shock’s stroke to stiffen or soften when compressed at high-speed load situations, but can also can act like a secondary ride height.  

Action/Stiffer: Depending on if you’re a Showa, KYB, or WP rider will depend on how much you will want adjust the HSC knob to feel a difference. A Showa shock is more sensitive to turns than that of a WP or KYB shock. I would adjust HSC on a Showa shock by 1/6 turns to feel a difference versus a 1/4 turns on a WP/KYB shock. Going to a stiffer HSC setting on your shock will raise your rear end and give you more hold up in g-outs, up faces of jumps, out of corners (on-throttle) as well as create more front end bite when entering into corners (area 1-2). Adjusting the high speed is sometimes scary to weekend riders, but shouldn’t be feared as it is one of the most notable changes you can make to your shock. Adjusting the HSC can give a  rider a plusher feeling if he/she is too low in the stroke. Increasing HSC can get you out of the harsh portion of the shock’s stroke if you’re too low on accel/de-cel. HSC can make the ride attitude of the bike more balanced front to rear.

Reaction/Stiffer: Negative affects of going stiffer on HSC can range from deflection on/off throttle, rigidity feeling up, low front end feel, too firm of a feel when hitting bumps on acceleration, harsh feeling through your feet, oversteer (knifing on lean angle), allow the bike’s ride attitude to be too front end low/rear end high and cause kicking on de-cel as well as nose end heavy off jumps.

Action/Softer: Softening the HSC can increase plushness on braking bumps, give the bike a flatter overall feel when chopping throttle in soft dirt, allow the shock to move further down in the stroke under heavy load, make the action of the stroke faster (less damping feel), can increase rear wheel traction (especially on lean angle/more tire contact patch), give a more supple feel to the hands through the pegs. 

Reaction/Softer: Allow the fork to ride too high in the stroke, can cause front end pushing through corners, fork deflection, create a low rear end feel that can make the rear of the bike wallow through rollers/waves, causes too much pitching on/off throttle (teeter totter movement), harsh feeling (firm) around the track because the shock is riding in the stiffer part of the stroke/damping (mid-stroke), unbalanced feel around track (more comfort in rear end with less comfort on fork). 

Rebound: The rebound damping allows the shock’s shaft to move faster/slower when compressed/released. It can also act as a type of damping force as well. 

Action/Faster: More rear end traction because the shock is moving faster, which in turn is causing the rear tire to get back to the ground quicker over bumps/square edges, can help straight line stability, can increase plushness through the beginning to mid stroke, can help get more lift off jumps.  

Reaction/Faster: Can cause side to side movement on throttle under slight lean angle (edge of tire), could make shock feel too soft/low on acceleration bumps (diving), can cause pushing sensation of rear tire through area 2-3 (middle to end) under throttle, can put too much weight on front end through corners.

Action/Slower: Can allow for more damping feel (firmer), slow the rear end down off throttle which can give you increased front end traction in ares 2 (middle) of corners, more planted feeling coming into deep braking bumps, less movement of the initial stroke/under throttle while hitting acceleration bumps, can allow bike to soak up jump faces more (less air).

Reaction/Slower: Can give rider a harsher feeling on/off throttle when hitting bumps, could make shock feel too firm on acceleration through choppy bumps (too high/harsh), can give less rear wheel traction on hard pack chop, front end high feel off jumps, can cause a ride attitude that is too low off throttle, that low feeling can give the rider less cornering stability through choppy ruts because it will pack and give the front tire less contact patch.

Sag: The sag measurement is important because it gives the correct preload on the shock spring for your weight. Sag is also important because it gives the bike its intended ride attitude when designed. 

Action: Getting the correct ride height (or sag) is crucial because when the bike is designed, it’s designed with the a certain amount of preload. The chassis will not act like it is intended (when developed) if the sag is not set to the correct setting. Having the correct sag will give you the ride attitude/balance around the track. 

Reaction: If you’re sag is too high, the rear of the bike can be harsh/deflect on square edge, cause the front end to be too heavy (or low feeling) off throttle, front end oversteer in corners, as well as give the balance of the motorcycle a stinkbug feel. Having the sag too low can allow your front end to be vague in corners (less front end bite), give the rider less rear wheel traction out of corners (under load) and could even cause more pitching on/off throttle. If you’re looking for a little more front end bite or more front end steering then try going up slightly (less sag) on your preload. If you want more stability on faster tracks or on deep sand tracks try going with more sag (rear end lower) for increase stability and a less front end heavy feel. 

Top 5 Mostly Inexpensive Mods To The 2021 Husqvarna FC450

The 2021 Husqvarna FC450 is a great machine that turns better than the KTM 450SX-F thanks in part to lower suspension, but also is also not as snappy as the KTM down low. The Husqvarna has a slightly more compliant feel with a more lethargic engine character. I wanted to see if I could make the handing traits better on the FC450 and give it a little more power! Here are 5 mods in no particular order that have helped me love the Husqvarna FC450 even more.

ZRT Throttle: How does it work? Simply put, there are two radial ball bearings on each end of the tube. One located inside the throttle housing and one on the end of the handlebars. This gives the throttle assembly an ultra smooth action and a claimed longer lifespan. Unlike the traditional FC plastic throttle tubes, the weight of the rider either pushing or pulling on the throttle will create some type of “friction”. The longer this goes on, the more the throttle and handle bars deteriorate and I have seen the right side of my bars look like slot car tracks in the past. Inserting two bearings within the throttle tube helps eliminate wear and friction, making your throttle assembly ultra smooth. So does it work? Yes, it does and sometimes too well! Sometimes! What I mean by “too well” is that it works so good that sometimes I get whiskey throttle when I get tired or have massive arm pump. This throttle is so smooth that it can be easy to grab a handful when sometimes you weren’t expecting to. However, once I got used to the buttery twist, my whiskey became less and less. This is by far the biggest difference I have felt from an aftermarket throttle tube.  The fears I had of cutting my bars and getting a different feel quickly went away when I rode out on the track. The 1/2 inch of bar loss was made up by the ZRT and my 802mm of bar width remained the same. Oh and trust me, if it didn’t feel the same, I would have felt it. Now when I go back to other test bikes that don’t have the ZRT tube on, it feels stiffer and harder to pull. We have been running the ZRT tube on our Husqvarna FC450 machine for almost 30 hours and have done nothing to it. I like that it feels as good as when we put it on and we have done zero maintenance to it.  The throttle cables on the KTM/Husqvarna kind of go to crap after 20 hours, so having the ZRT on there allows for an easier throttle pull even when your cables get worn. It is a good rule of thumb to change out your throttle cables on this bike around 25 hours or so.

      Of course there is a downside and the downside is that it costs $179.95! Now to most this is outrageous right? But to some, this costly part is worth it. For example, I would want a ZRT if I owned a KTM/Husqvarna/Gas Gas. Why? I am not a lock on grip guy, so I would normally go straight to an aftermarket throttle tube and instead of purchasing a cheaper plastic tube or an aluminum throttle, I would spend the money to get the ZRT. Yes, we know this is mostly an inexpensive mod article, but to us this think pays for itself. If you plan on keeping your bike for a few years or even if you get a new bike every year (albeit the same brand) this throttle tube is worth the cost. You can order your Zero Resistance Throttle at zrtthrottle.com. Any questions email me at kris@keeferinctesting.com

I have tested several exhaust flanges over the past several months and Twisted Development’s flange is not a gimmick! It actually helps low end pull, even if you have a stock muffler system!

Twisted Development Exhaust Flange: The Twisted Development exhaust flanges are shaped differently than the stock OEM flange, which can change the engine character of the FC450. I went through several during testing and found out a size/shape that can actually enhance the low to mid range power character. Compared to the stock piece the TD Performance flange will give you better throttle response through area 2-3 (mid to exit) of corners. Another advantage to me is that the TD flange helps pulling power out of corners as well and helps third gear lugability. The TD flange just helps the RPM’s pick up quicker, which in turn makes the KTM feel lighter when the track gets bumpy. There is no need to remap your ECU and it takes minutes to install.  

 The TD flange works with the stock headpipe/muffler system or any aftermarket system. I tried it on a stock muffler system as well as a full FMF system and with both, the TD flange helped in aforementioned areas. For $200.00 bucks, to me, it’s a great way to get a little more snap out of your FC450.

Ride Engineering One Piece Bar Mounts: Just looking at the stock FC450 bar mounts wrong can allow them to shift/bend. I have literally have come into the pits after a moto with my bars twisted and didn’t even crash. Yes, going to an aftermarket clamp like the Rockstar Edition clamp or a Ride Engineering Split Clamp helps with comfort so that should be one of the mods you should do if you’re looking for comfort, but that is also 700 bucks. The Ride Engineering One Piece bar Mount has a one-piece top that is designed to resist bending much better than the stock bar mount. Precision machined from aircraft quality aluminum, there is also a 6mm difference between the forward and back mounting positions. Ride Engineering also machines their own stainless steel posts that prevent over tightening, unlike some other competing brands that DO NOT use quality posts. This $104.95 all aluminum bar mount is sturdy enough to take some crashes, but doesn't cause any added rigidity problems. I would know because I am super sensitive to any added rigidity in my front end. The flex I got on the track (from the Ride mount) is as good as the stock flex and Ride Engineering’s rubber cones are also as flexible as stock. Ride does offer a variation of different elastomers/rubber cone compounds for a custom desired flex, just in case you need a stiffer or softer feel. The Ride Engineering Fourth Generation One Piece Mount has been refined over the years to weigh as little as possible, yet stay strong. The final product is a little heavier than stock, but for the added strength that I am getting, it’s worth its “weight” in gold. 

Air Filter Cage: OEM Part Number 50406016000. Using a two stroke filter cage without the screen will help low end RPM response and low end power delivery. For less than 20 bucks this is a great mod that actually does work! 

FASST Company Rear Brake Return Spring: I seem to break return springs on KTM’s/Husqvarna's all the time. You can use a stock Honda rear brake spring or just get the FASST Co. piece that completely removes it. The pedal resistance can be adjusted by how much preload is placed on the spring. The Return Spring Kit also minimizes debris from jamming the master cylinder as well as eliminating the stock tension return spring that attaches to the pedal. The Rear Brake Pedal Return Spring Kit consists of spring, spring bucket and nut. The spring bucket contains the spring as well as seals the master cylinder with the stock rubber dust boot. Installation takes 10 minutes and the return spring kit gives you more of a positive feel, without a lot of slop, not to mention it’s way more durable than the OEM Husqvarna or KTM rear brake pedal springs. For 20 bucks it’s an easy one time investment on something you may have to purchase every few months with the stocker. You can purchase or check out what they offer over at www.fasstco.com.

Other More Notable But More Expensive Mods That Are Effective:

FMF 4.1 Full Exhaust System (Increase Mid Range and Top End)

Vortex ECU Mapped By Chad At XPR Motorsports or Jamie at Twisted Development (More pulling power as well as response through the rpm range)

Dunlop MX3S Front Tire (Better front end lean angle grip than MX33)

VP T4 Race Fuel (Better throttle response and low end delivery)

REP Re-Valve Of AER Fork (More comfort through mid stroke and more predictable mid moto)

If you have any questions about these mods, please feel free to email away at kris@keeferinctesting.com

Suspension Adjustment Guide

The one question I get sent to my email account the most is about suspension. Suspension is a tricky thing and can be somewhat difficult to figure out for the average rider. These descriptions below may seem redundant to all of you riders out there that are familiar with suspension, but I wanted to cater to the novice type rider, to get him or her familiar with adjusting their suspension to achieve the most comfortable ride possible.

 Adjustments are there for you to “customize” your set up and feel on the track. The compression and rebound damping adjustments on your machine are known as your “clicker” adjustments. Making the correct changes with your clickers will make your bike handle better and give you a friendlier riding experience. Clickers control the amount of oil flow that is allowed to bypass your suspension valving stack. They work like a fuel screw and can fine tune your suspension.

A shock has both low-speed and high-speed compression adjustments. The low-speed adjuster controls the damping at low shock speed velocities like rolling whoops and acceleration bumps. The high-speed adjuster controls damping when the shock is moving at high speeds like g-outs, jump faces and effects the ride height of the bike (similar to sag). Before you start messing around with clicker adjustments here are some things you should do first.

• Check where your clickers are set at and write them down.

• Start out with recommended stock settings first for baseline.

• Adjust your tire pressure for the type of riding and terrain. (You can check the tire pressure bible on keeferinctesting.com for your type of tire).

• Make sure you have the correct spring rate on your bike for your weight/ability and set your sag.

• Bleed the air out of the forks every time you ride, if you have a spring fork or an AER fork.

• If using air forks, makes sure to check air pressure.

Start off by riding your machine with your clickers set in the stock position. This will give you a good base setting of how your bike handles. Ride only a few laps (2-4) at a time when you try new settings so you will not be second guessing your initial impression of each adjustment. If you stay out too long you will start to second guess your initial thoughts. Ride the same lines every lap so you get a feel for the changes you make and do not ride around the bumps you are trying to test on. Doing this will alter your perception of how well your stuff is working. Cheating doesn’t nothing for you! This will only hurt you in the long run, so buck up and take the rough line! Make changes to your clickers 1-2 “clicks” at a time and one adjustment at a time (rebound or compression). Changing compression/rebound on the fork and shock at the same time can confuse you as to what setting is actually improving your machine. So just chill down and do one adjustment at a time. Soft terrain usually requires more compression damping (stiffer). The bumps are bigger and spaced further apart so they can require more rebound damping to minimize kick (stiffer). If there is a hard base underneath, the bumps will usually be closer together and square edges will develop. In this case a softer setting or a faster rebound can be used. If you are riding in deep sand your compression and rebound settings should be stiffer (slower) than recommended stock settings that are in your manual. You can also run your front end higher (drop your fork height) and the rear end lower (higher sag number) if possible for stability, to combat any twitchiness your bike may have.

On hard pack dirt it is better to adjust the rebound faster while still maintaining control and bottoming resistance. Try to find a happy medium between bottoming and comfort. It’s ok to bottom out once or twice a lap, so don’t freak out if you bottom out once in a while. That doesn’t mean you need to stiffen your suspension if you’re bottoming out. All of your suspension is meant to be used, that’s why it’s there, so let it do its job. If you are bottoming out more than that you would adjust your compression clickers to a stiffer setting. Adjusting your rebound damping to a stiffer setting will help, if your bike feels unstable (loose feel) or if you are blowing through the stroke on jump faces. While it’s common to stiffen (slower) the shock rebound when your bike kicks over bumps (because you feel like it’s bucking you), many times it is caused by compression that is too stiff. Try going one or two clicks softer/faster on rebound to see if it soaks up the bumps and calms the chassis down in that area of the track. Always ride within your means when testing and try not to push 110%. Let the pros do that! 

Again, be patient. Designate a day where you just play around with your settings and get familiar with your bike. I feel like suspension tuning is kind of like dating. You must learn your partner before you can get married right? Getting a balanced, comfortable suspension setting is no different than dating. Get to know your bike before you decide to dump it and blame it all on her. Maybe its you? Maybe you didn’t give it a chance? Play around and see what works for you. If the rear of your bike kicks to the side, the cause can be that it’s too stiff of a rebound setting or too stiff of a compression setting. Again, try one adjustment at a time. Lack of traction (wheel spin) on acceleration bumps can usually be improved by softening the low-speed compression on the shock or speeding up the rebound, so the rear tire follows the ground better. Keep in mind that faster riders generally prefer stiffer settings to maintain control at speed (performance) while slower riders prefer softer settings for comfort.

When it comes to air forks messing with the air pressure can be tricky. Just to let all of you know that 2 psi is one full spring rate. How many times have you changed a spring out at the track? Not very much right? Unless you are very light or extremely heavy, the stock air pressure settings from the factory are usually a great place to start and keep within 1 psi (softer or stiffer). Adjusting your compression and rebound clickers on air forks is much easier and a simpler way to dial in these types of forks. Air pressure will change throughout the day as heat builds up, so if you are checking your air pressure in the middle of the day, make sure the fork is cooled down to ambient air temperature. If you like what you read here, listen to the Rocky Mountain ATV/MC Keefer Tested Podcast and listen to some more tricks that can help you get more cozy on the track! 

Follow some of these easy steps and I can guarantee you that you will get your set up even better and enjoy riding that dirt bike of yours even more. If you have any questions you can email me at kris@keeferinctesting.com as we are here to help. 

The Weekend Race Set Up (4/25/21)

I always thought it would be cool to share the notes that I create after a race with the reader. 98% of the time I will input notes about each test bike/part I decide to race any given weekend. The part as well as the bikes change from time to time, but I always like to have a log of what I ran as well as the conditions of each race. Below is a brief breakdown on the bikes, parts as well as notes on how each performed or felt. Last weekend we brought four bikes to race (2021 Yamaha YZ450F, KTM 250 SX-F, Kawasaki KX450, Yamaha YZ450FX). Below are four breakdowns of what was on each machine and how each machine fared in race conditions. Each time my son and I race, you can check back here to keeferinctesting.com every Tuesday (when we race the previous weekend)  for “The Weekend Race Set Up”.

Track: Glen Helen Raceway

Kris Keefer

Terrain: Sandy top soil AM with hard pack in PM 

Start: Dirt

Avg Lap Time: 2:00

Total Number Of Motos: 4 motos (Four 8 lap motos)

Weight At Time Of Race: 170 pounds w/o gear

2021 Yamaha YZ450F: 

Engine Hours 50.2

Tires: Dunlop MX3S/MX12 13.5/12.5 PSI 

Bars: Pro Taper SX Race Evo

Grips: Renthal Half Waffle Medium

Levers: ARC RC-8 Perch/Lever

Throttle: ZRT 

Rider Triangle: -5mm down and back peg position/stock bar height/rear hole

Gearing: 13/49 Renthal Sprockets/DID ERT3 Chain

Engine Mods: Vortex ECU Mapped By XPR/Akrapovic Evolution System

Engine Oil: Blud Racing 10/40 Pro Series

Fuel: Renegade SX4

Holeshot Device: WC

Graphics/Seat: Throttle Syndicate

Suspension: Enzo Racing Test Fork/Shock Spec #KK145

Air Filter: Twin Air Power Flow Kit 

Plastic: Cycra Power Flow Kit

Results: 1st 450 Pro (1-1-1), 2nd 30 Pro (2-2)

Notes: 

• GH World Vet Vortex ECU setting as well as Akrapovic muffler allowed the most rear wheel connection I have felt yet from any muffler I have tested to date. Power was controlled and easy to manage late in motos.

• YZ450F feels slightly heavy on entry of shallow ruts.

• PSF1 Fork was stiffened up to 38.5 PSI to help with hold up coming down hills. PSF1 had more comfort on heavy landings or when pushing hard into corners. lean angle is not as good as spring fork, but PSF1 setting allowed me to push harder later in the day. Surprising! 

• Shock sag at 105mm made for acceptable balance, but left rebound setting from 4/10/21 race to compensate for choppy conditions so rear can follow ground more.

• WC start device was better off the gate when set at 120mm for dirt start.

• Updated rider triangle (-5mm/-10 back pegs) allows for less leg fatigue. Legs were fresher at end of motos. 

• GUTS standard seat foam is firmer than stock OEM foam and last longer. (12.1 hours on foam and density still holding up).

• TP199 knee pads were worn. Had more mobility when riding, less fatigue and overall movement on bike was more fluid. Roost protection was adequate. Still slip down legs so Asterisk Zero G Knee Brace Pant was worn.

Suspension Setting: 

Fork: (Spec #KK28PSF1)

Air Pressure: 38.5

C: 15

R: 11

Height: 2mm

Shock: (Spec #KK144S)

LSC: 10

HSC: 1.25

R: 9

Sag: 105mm

Track: Glen Helen Raceway

Aden Keefer

Terrain: Sandy top soil AM with hard pack in PM 

Start: Dirt

Avg Lap Time: 2:02

Total Number Of Motos: 4 motos (Four 7 lap motos) 

Weight At Time Of Race: 130 pounds w/o gear

2021 KTM 250 SX-F:

 Engine Hours 10.1 

Tires: Dunlop MX3S/MX12 13.5/12.5 PSI 

Bars: Pro Taper Evo Suzuki Race Team Cut to 805mm

Grips: Pro Taper 1/3 Waffle Race Cut

Levers: Stock

Throttle: ZRT Grey Cam 

Rider Triangle: Stock

Gearing: 14/51 Sunstar Sprockets/DID ERT3 Chain

Engine Mods: Head Mod XPR Motorsports, Custom HC Piston, Vortex ECU Mapped By XPR/HGS Full System

Engine Oil: Blud Racing 10/40 Pro Series

Fuel: Renegade SX4+

Holeshot Device: WC

Graphics/Seat: Throttle Syndicate

Suspension: REP Racing Test Fork/Shock Spec #AK3

Air Filter: Twin Air Power Flow Kit 

Results: 2nd 250 Intermediate, 2nd Schoolboy

 Notes: 

• REP AER setting was set at 9.92, but rider still complaining of soft feeling (dive) under braking.

• Fork comfort on bigger braking bumps was ok, but rider needs more performance (hold up) coming down hills or when over jumping jumps. 

• Fork comfort on small/light bump/accel was acceptable. 

• HGS Muffler provided more hit down low and better throttle response than Akrapovic slip on. 3 out of 4 hole shots with HGS versus 2 out of 4 on the Akra.  

• 120mm holeshot device setting remained from last race and is preferred. 

Suspension Setting:

Fork: (Spec #AK3F)

C: 11

R: 12

Height: 5mm

Air: 9.92 Bar 

Shock: (Spec #AK3S)

LSC: 14

HSC: 1.5

R: 12

Sag: 105mm

Track: Glen Helen Raceway

Michael Allen

Terrain: Sandy top soil AM with hard pack, square edge braking bumps in PM 

Start: Dirt

Avg Lap Time: 2:10

Total Number Of Motos: 4 motos (Four 5 lap motos)

Weight At Time Of Race: 175 pounds w/o gear

2021 Yamaha YZ450FX:

Engine Hours 2.3 

Tires: Dunlop MX33F/MX33 13/12.5 PSI 

Bars: Stock

Grips: Stock

Levers: Stock

Throttle: Stock 

Rider Triangle: Stock bar height/front hole

Gearing: Stock 13/50 

Engine Mods: Stock

Engine Oil: Yamalube 10/40

Fuel: Pump 91

Holeshot Device: none

Graphics/Seat: stock

Suspension: stock, sag at 104mm

Air Filter: stock 

Plastic: stock

Results: 9th Open Vet Int., 4th 30 Plus Int.

Notes:

• Front end pushed and lacked traction in corners, especially flat corners.

• Took a lot of effort to get leaned into a rut and wasn’t planted in rut.

• Stock map has too much power/hit for rough Glen Helen when accelerating up the choppy hills or out off choppy corners

• I started the race in the stock map and changed to the hard packed map just before the second corner.

• The hard packed map mellowed out power delivery in first 5-10% of throttle opening, as well as making the overall power, less “explosive”

• Fork and shock settings were in the ball park for comfort for my height/ability (30+B rider)

• Big improvement over previous year settings as its much less wollowy overall. 

• The fork is slightly firmer than the rear, as once the shock gets deeper in the stroke the wollowy characteristics can still be slightly felt from last year. 

• Even with the longer exhaust, it’s still on the loud side

I’m used to riding a 250F, so the 450FX definitely wore me out, but in a different way. On a 250F I get worn out from riding it aggressively, but on the 450FX I get more worn out form holding on during acceleration (especially up hills). This was my first time riding this bike, so after a 10 minute practice session my first experience was moto one. I got one hole shot, and wasn’t ever outside the top 5. I think one reason I had trouble turning the bike is because the bars were in the forward position as I usually have YZ’s in the rear position. Will be moving mounts to the rear hole from here on out.

Suspension Setting: 

Fork: (stock)

C: 10

R: 8

Height: 5mm

Shock: (stock)

LSC: 10

HSC: 1.25

R: 7

Sag: 104mm

Track: Glen Helen Raceway 

Matthew Sirevaag 

Terrain: Sandy top soil AM with hard pack in PM  

Start: Dirt 

Avg Lap Time: 2:15 

Total Number Of Motos: 4 motos (Four 7 lap motos) 

Weight At Time Of Race: 201 pounds w/o gear 

2021 Kawasaki KX450: 

Engine Hours 41.6 

Mods/Parts:  

Tires: Dunlop MX33F/MX33 13.5/13.5 PSI  

Bars: Pro Taper  Fuzion SX Race  

Grips: Pro Taper Half Waffle Soft 

Levers: Stock 

Rider Triangle: Stock peg position/stock bar height/rear hole 

Gearing: 13/48 Pro Taper Sprockets/DID ERT3 Chain 

Engine Mods: Yoshimura RS12 stainless system 

Engine Oil: Blud Racing 10/40 Pro Series 

Fuel: Pump 91 

Holeshot Device:  None 

Graphics: 180 Decals 

Suspension: Race Tech re-valve/5.2 fork springs 5.8 rear spring

Air Filter: Stock 

Plastic: Stock 

Results:  30B (6-7= 7th), Open Vet = sucked both motos 

Notes:  

 • Regret not installing Works Connection hole shot device three out of the four starts were horrible 

• KX450 has light nimble feel making it easy to change direction mid corner 

• Yosh exahaust system  smoothed out power down low which helped me to roll my corners with more speed. Less jerky feel.

• Went from stock 13/49 gearing to 13/48 to help smooth power out in order to help with rider fatiuge late in motos.

• Fork seemed a little harsh in mid stroke, so opening up rebound helped some coming down rough hills. I still need more comfort in order for me to be able to charge harder late in Motos.

• Shock gave me good comfort/traction, but need to balance the fork to match the shock’s comfort on throttle.

Suspension Setting:  

 Fork:  

C: 12 

R: 15 

Height: 2mm 

Shock:  

LSC: 13 

HSC: 1 3/4 

R: 16 

Sag: 105mm 

2021 KTM 250 SX-F Baseline Suspension, Rider Triangle, And Gearing Settings

My son and I have been riding the 2021 KTM 250 SX-F heavily the past few months and have come up with some settings for each of us that may help you out with your orange 250 four stroke machine. If you’re looking for a good place to start, these settings below worked well for a wide variety of tracks that we tested at. Getting a setting that ranges from 130-175 pounds is tough to do but after a few months of playing around we thing we found a setting that can make you comfortable. Below are some suspension, gearing and rider triangle settings that you can apply to your orange brigade at home. 

Suspension: (160-190 Pounds)

Fork: 

C: 15

R: 11

Height: 4mm

Air: 10.7 Bar

Shock: (Spec #AK2S)

LSC: 13

HSC: 1.5

R:11

Sag: 105mm

Suspension: (130-155 Pounds)

Fork: 

C: 11

R: 10

Height: 4mm

Air: 10.4 Bar

Shock: (Spec #AK2S)

LSC: 15

HSC: 1..75

R: 11

Sag: 105mm

Gearing: 

In stock form the 2021 KTM 250 SX-F comes with a 14/51 but for heavier riders above 170 pounds a 14/52 or even a 14/53 works better in most conditions. Why? It allows the rider to get into third gear more and let the KTM 250 SX-F pull their heavy asses around the track better. For lighter riders under 150 pounds the stock 13/51 gearing is just fine as the lighter riders can use 3rd gear a little early without the detrimental affect of not having enough recovery when shifting too early. 

Rider Triangle: 

The stock Neken handlebar is rigid/harsh to the hands so go with a Pro Taper bar. If you’re a Renthal guy please contact me for specs at kris@keeferinctesting.com. See specs below: 

Height: 5’5-5’9 = Husqvarna Stock Pro Taper Bend

Height: 5’9-6’2 = SX Race Pro Taper Bend or YZ High Pro Taper Bend

Throttle Feel:

If you find yourself having a sticky or hard twist to your throttle, you can replace your throttle cables as the stock cables will only last around 20 hours before they start to feel like crap. No matter what you do, the cables will never feel the same even if you lube them. You might get a free feel after lubing the cables for a bit, but soon thereafter your throttle will feel harder to twist once again. If you’re looking to spend a little money for an aluminum throttle tube and want to  help the feel of your throttle, I recommend the ZRT throttle. This throttle tube makes the pull have almost zero drag and is a tough SOB. There is some set up/prep time to this throttle (cutting the right side of the handlebars a 1/2 inch), but it can help the pull over the long haul.

TOP 5 MAINTENANCE ITEMS:

1. Fuel Filters: If you’re a KTM owner, do yourself a favor and put a couple of these in your toolbox just in case. Fuel filters can get clogged on all KTM’s and this can cause damage to your fuel pump or possibly not allow your bike to start properly.

2. Throttle Cables: If there is one thing that DOES NOT last on KTM’s it is the throttle cables. Every 15-20 hours I will have to replace the throttle cables to ensure that my throttle doesn’t feel hard or sticky when twisting. Originally I thought my throttle tube was dirty or maybe the right side of the handlebar had dirt on it, but I found out through a couple KTM mechanics, that the throttle cables simply wear out. You can’t lube them or clean them out as it will only make the throttle feel better for a short amount of time. Get some 

3. Check All Spokes/Sprocket Bolts: KTM spokes always come loose near the rim lock so make sure you pay attention to all the spokes after every ride. If you don’t check them constantly you will lose or break a couple. 

4. Check Engine Mounts/Swingarm Pivot Bolt: Always check the torx bolts that hold the top engine hangers on the bike. After break in, these will loosen up a bunch, so you might need some blue Loctite on the threads. After you do this, please continue to check these as they still back out from time to time. The torque spec on these bolts are important to the ride attitude of these KTM’s. Also the KTM’s come with frame guards and that means you will not know (until it’s too late) when your swingarm pivot bolt  backs out. Take off your frame guard and check pivot bolt regularly. While you’re at it, get the Acerbis frame guards as they last longer and have better grip than the stock ones. 

5: FI Indicator Light: The little FI indicator light bulb will fall out of the rubber casing as soon as you get past 10 hours. The best thing to do is put a little silicone inside the rubber casing, so the light bulb as well as the wire doesn’t flop around.

2021 Husqvarna FC450 Baseline Stock Suspension Settings

By: Joe Oehlhof

So for this year I've been tasked with shaking down and dialing in the 2021 FC 450 and I wanted to start by riding it stock for a few hours and finding a direction to focus my time. As enticing as it is to ride a new bike and immediately want to start making changes to suit you, sometimes this can be counter productive, especially if this is a bike with significant changes from the previous year or if its new to you. For me it’s best to ride the bike in stock form, get used to it, become comfortable on it and start finding things you wish were better.

The first couple rides on this bike gave me some areas to focus on and the first area I want to tackle is suspension, but first a quick synopsis of the rest of the bike: The motor was a good mix of power and tractability and the option of 2 different maps gives a little more tunability to mapping for different scenarios, which I will get more into after I dial in the handling and suspension. The rider triangle suited me well and I was comfy right away. The bars, levers, grips, footpegs, brakes, shifter, seat and all the other components that make up the ergos were easy to get used to and I needed little to no adjustment. Lastly, the stock gearing was matched well to the power character of the motor and didn’t have any delayed recovery areas when shifting. Overall a very solid bike in stock form that I'm excited to try and improve on.

Typically stock suspension is a little on the soft side for me with my weight being 190lbs and I'd like to think I'm still able to go somewhat fast for a couple laps. As most of you already know stock bikes are designed to suit a broad spectrum of rider size and ability and if you're on either end of that spectrum, getting stock suspension to work for you can be a bit difficult. For me the AER fork on the Husqvarna/KTM have come a long way and once you settle on an air pressure, you can fine tune the feel with the compression and rebound clickers. Initially I started with the recommended settings that you cand find on a sticker on the back of the airside fork. I like that Husqvarna did this because it gives you a starting point and as we get older sometimes we forget what the stock settings are. The recommended settings were 10.7 bar or 155psi of air in the fork, compression at 12 out and rebound at 18 out. This setting was, as suspected, too soft for my liking and after testing at State Fair and Glen Helen I found a base line setting of 11.1 bar or 162 psi of air, compression at 10 clicks out and rebound of 18 out. With this I had no issues bottoming on hard landings as well as bump absorption/hold up/traction were very good even at GH late in the day.

The shock was a bit more difficult to find a great setting for, but that is due to my weight of 190lbs and needing a stiffer spring. The action of the shock wasn't bad, my issue was with a spring that was too soft. The shock was riding too low in the stroke which caused a low squat in the apex of turns and a soft blow thru feeling on transitions, whoops, and hard landings. As I said this is easily fixed with a stiffer spring but when striving for a stock base line setting you do the best with what you have. I ended up going with 98mm of sag, high speed compression at 1/2 turn out, low speed compression at 8 out and rebound at 12 out. Now some of you may ask why I didn't go further in on compression and I did try that, but the action on acceleration chop/braking bumps suffered when things are closed off that much. The soft feeling on landings, whoops and turns was more manageable than the instability in choppy acceleration bumps or entering braking bumps at speed. Not the ideal trade off, but again if you have to make do until you get the correct spring rates or a revalve, these settings should work for you. At the end of the day this base line set up allowed me to get more comfortable at speed and gave me a direction of the areas I want to improve.

Lastly, I have been asked a couple times if I noticed the bike feeling lower since this bike has been lowered 10mm from the factory. For me the bike does feel more compact, not necessarily small or low, but I'm able to move around easily on this bike and not feel out of position. The only time the bike felt low was in deep ruts. I noticed feeling the frame hit the sides of the rut, but this could also be due to the soft spring. Its definitely an issue that can be sorted out fairly quickly. I am excited to keep working with each area of this bike and I'll keep you guys up to date on the changes I make. Stay tuned

2021 KTM 450 SX-F Baseline Settings/Top Mods

The 2021 KTM 450 SX-F orange brigade is an amazing machine to ride! It only gets better with some modifications and some tweaks. The KTM 450 SX-F responds well to a few mods and with that makes for one hell of a fun motorcycle to ride/race. Here are few things that you can do to make your 2021 KTM 450 SX-F better. Do one or do them all, but just note that each mod makes enough difference on the track for my tired old ass to type about it when I get back to the office.   

Engine/ECU: For 2021 KTM has a better ECU setting and although it’s clean, I still would like some more added RPM response/puling power. I have been on the Vortex ignition bandwagon for a couple years with this machine and for 2021 it hasn't wavered. If you want the same great rear wheel connection as well as more pulling power everywhere, look into a Vortex ignition from Chad at XPR Motorsports or Jamie at Twisted Development. I have turned a lot of KTM riders onto this mod and have had a 100% approval ratio. What I like about this modification is that it doesn't hurt reliability and makes for a very usable yet powerful engine for almost every type of rider. Yes, it will set you back around $800.00, but to me is much better than slapping on a muffler system and will do more for your engine. A stock re-map will not get you nearly the rpm response or pulling power that a Vortex will give you. Another good reason to get a Vortex ECU is that they have great resale value. You will also most likely be able to keep that Vortex ECU in circulation (if you get a new 2022 KTM) until 2022.5 as that will most likely be the year that KTM will release it’s new model. 

Suspension: If you haven't listened to my WP XACT Pro Components suspension podcast you may want to at least check that out, but if you're sticking with the stock suspension for a while, you can try this setting to see if this helps comfort when the track gets rough. This setting below should be in the ballpark for riders around 165-200 pounds, but if you’re heavier than 200 pounds going to a stiffer rear spring will help the ride attitude of the KTM. I have went to several tracks and tried many different settings, but this specific setting had the most “track toughness”. The KTM’s stock WP suspension doesn't quite have the comfort like the Husqvarna does, but the KTM/WP set also holds up more in the stroke, which is a better fit for me personally. To get some added comfort back with the added hold up, try this setting. 

Fork (Stock Triple Clamp): 

Height: 5mm

Air Pressure: 11.0 Bars

Compression: 13-14 clicks out

Rebound: 15 clicks out

*With KTM Hard Parts Triple Clamps or Ride Engineering Split Clamps*

Height: 5mm

Air Pressure: 11.1 Bars

Compression: 15-16 clicks out

Rebound: 13 clicks out

Shock:

Sag: 104mm

Low Speed Compression: 10 clicks out

High Speed Compression: 1-1/2 

Rebound:  11 clicks out

WP XACT Or Spring Conversion:

This is a question I get a lot! Which is better? Should I get a spring conversion or XACT Pro Component fork? I have tried Enzo’s KYB conversion as well as a REP valved XACT fork and both have their advantages. The Enzo KYB conversion soaks up small bump/hard pack chatter better than a REP XACT fork, but the REP XACT fork moves less and to me has slightly better performance with slightly less comfort. Both spring set ups are better than other re-valved AER set ups that I have tried and to me the spring set ups are way more consistent throughout the day. You will have to decide on how much money you want to spend (Enzo KYB Spring Conversion is around $2000.00 and the XACT fork is around $3000.00) as well as what type of rider you are in order to get the most out of your suspension. If you like a fork that moves in the stroke a lot and follows the ground well (front tire contact patch), the KYB conversion is great. If you want the most hold up as well as a fork that allows the rider to charge/hammer through big bumps easier, the XACT fork set up is also a great choice.  

Chassis: Aftermarket engine mounts are all the rage right now and some of you may not have the money to spend on a pair of engine mounts for your KTM. I will say that I do feel like the KTM chassis is stiff when new, but be patient as it will break in and feel better after 15 hours or so. I decided to play around with torque specs on the engine mounts for fun and stumbled across some more comfort. If you’re experiencing a stiff feeling chassis sensation and want the KTM to settle while leaning (under throttle), there is an inexpensive way to achieve some extra front end traction (as well as an overall more planted feel). You can torque all top engine mount bolts to 30Nm. This band aid will give you a more planted sensation when on throttle while leaning the KTM 450SX-F through sweepers and fast straights. You will have to make sure that all engine mount bolts have blue Loctite to ensure they do not back out (you should do this regardless if you keep all the bolts in or not). You can also try torquing your swingarm pivot bolt to 95 Nm (instead of 100Nm) to help rear end traction out of corners. The downside to doing these mods is that the chassis will flex a little more, so if you’re riding deep tilled tracks this modification might have too much flex for some (especially when chopping throttle).  

Handlebars: The stock Neken handlebar is too stiff and doesn't offer too much comfort. Throw them in the trash. Get yourself a set of Pro Taper bars and make your arms and hands happy again. The Pro Taper SX Race bar worked well for riders from 5’8 to 6’1. The SX Race bend comes in a crossbar or crossbar-less style and is 800mm width, 87mm height, 54.5 rise, and 54mm sweep. If you’re looking for a better “stand up feel” from your KTM look for handlebar close to this measurement. If you do like the stock bar try the Pro Taper Husqvarna Stock bend with 5mm bar mount risers (Ride Engineering sells these).  

Triple Clamps: After riding back to back with the stock triple clamps, the KTM factory clamps and the Ride Engineering clamps I have realized that the stock clamps are stiffer. I have since installed the Ride Engineering triple clamps on our 2021 KTM 450 SX-F with excellent results. The front end has more of a softer initial touch on slap downs and the fork action is smoother on de-cel bumps. It’s crazy to think that the fork feels softer now with the Ride clamps installed, but that is exactly how it feels when riding on the track. I was able to increase my air setting on my fork to help hold up off-throttle and kept more comfort through the entire stroke (with the stock AER fork). I also get slightly more lean angle front end traction (or cornering stability) with the Ride clamp because the front end isn't bouncing around inside long/choppy ruts. The KTM factory clamps are close in comfort to the Ride clamps, but offer slightly less straight line front tire feel.  

Rear Brake Pedal Spring: Purchase a Honda CRF450R rear brake pedal spring with the rubber around the spring. The KTM rear brake pedal spring vibrates and will break every 3-4 engine hours. Orrrrrrrrr. Get a Fasst Co rear brake return spring and be done with it! Fasst Co’s rear brake return spring offers tunable pedal resistance and a more controllable feel by placing the spring in compression instead of tension, minimizing the "on-off" feel of most rear brakes. 

Gearing: I like the stock 13/49 gearing for most conditions. If you remember last year I thought 14/52 was better in sandier conditions, but have come to the realization that I liked the gear spacing more with the 13/49 gearing. 

Twisted Development Exhaust Flanges:

The Twisted Development exhaust flanges are shaped differently than the stock OEM flange, which can change the engine character of the KTM 450 SX-F. I went through several during testing and found out a size/shape that can actually enhance the low to mid range power character. Compared to the stock piece the TD Performance flange will give you better throttle response through area 2-3 (mid to exit) of corners. Another advantage to me is that the TD flange helps pulling power out of corners as well and helps third gear lugability. The TD flange just helps the RPM’s pick up quicker, which in turn makes the KTM feel lighter when the track gets bumpy. There is no need to remap your ECU and it takes minutes to install.  

 The TD flange works with the stock headpipe/muffler system or any aftermarket system. I tried it on a stock muffler system as well as a full FMF system and with both, the TD flange helped in aforementioned areas. For $200.00 bucks, to me, it’s a great way to get a little more snap out of your KTM 450 SX-F. 

Rear Axle/Axle Blocks: Going to a Works Connection Elite axle block kit or Ride Engineering axle block kit will get rid of the fixed left axle block on the stock KTM’s axle. This will help the rear end to move more freely under throttle and improve the shock’s comfort on acceleration chop. Both are great, but you will have to decide if you want a complete axle/axle block kit like Ride Engineering’s  or just the blocks themselves like WC’s.

Muffler: To me, FMF makes the best muffler system for the KTM 450 SX-F. There are some other companies that have other bikes dialed in more, but on the KTM, FMF has got it down. You will get more low to mid RPM response as well as more mid range pulling power. Top end is increased plus the over-rev is as good as stock. It is one of the few times that I was impressed because it was actually better than stock in almost all areas. The downside is that you must keep up on muffler packing (every 10-12 engine hours) because the FMF will blow out and that could damage your expensive titanium can. Did I mention that you will lose almost two pounds with this system? If you slap on spring forks you will be gaining almost three pounds. You can get most of that back with a 4.1 Titanium FMF Muffler system.

If you have any questions about any of these settings or mods please contact me at kris@keeferinctesting.com and I am happy to help you.

2021 Honda CRF250R Baseline Settings/Top Five Mods

My son Aden and I have been riding/racing the 2020 Honda CRF250R for over a year now and since Honda left the 2021 Honda CRF250R unchanged, I decided to get you some notes on some baseline stock settings, as well as some mods that you can do to improve your CRF250R. Some of these settings/mods have evolved since last year as we learned more by going to a wider variety of tracks. 

Suspension: 

In stock form the Showa suspension on the 2020-2021 Honda CRF250R has decent comfort on de-cel bumps, but lacks a little hold up for riders ranging from 160-190 pounds. If you’re over 190 pounds going up a spring rate on each end is your ticket to a better handling CRF250R. After riding with this setting below at more than three different tracks, more than one time around, I figured out that this baseline suspension setting gave the 2020-2021 Honda CRF250R the most “track toughness”. If you happen to feel like the fork is harsher (through the mid stroke) with this setting, simply open up the rebound (faster) back to stock setting. This will help free up the fork slightly under front end load (off-gas). The shock needs just a little more hold up under acceleration so simply going stiffer/slower on low speed compression/rebound gives the rider more comfort and added traction out of corners. I tried experimenting with high speed compression, but the Honda is finicky with high speed. Going stiffer on high speed compression (shock) put too much weight on the front end (fork) creating a harsher feeling front fork.

Fork: 

Height: 3mm (Stock is 5mm)

Compression: 6-7 clicks out (Stock is 9 clicks out)

Rebound: 10 clicks out (Stock is 11 clicks out) 

Shock:

Sag: 102-103mm

High Speed Compression: 2-5/6

Low Speed Compression: 9 clicks out (11 clicks out is stock)

Rebound: 5 clicks out (6 clicks out is stock)

Chassis:

As of right now I prefer the stock engine mounts torqued to the OEM/manual settings. Some bikes react better to aftermarket engine mounts than others and as of right now I feel the best settings (for comfort) come from the stock engine mounts. Another way to get more compliance is to torque the swingarm pivot bolt to 52 ft.lbs. for increased flex/comfort under throttle, while leaning. If you feel like the rear end is planted and doesn't deflect under load on chop please leave it at the OEM/manual torque spec. If you feel like the Honda is standing up through mid corner simply go back up to 5mm on fork height with the above suspension specs to help mid corner lean.

Gearing: 

I went back and forth between the stock 13/48 gearing and 13/49, but ultimately decided on sticking with the 13/49 on softer tracks. Why? I felt the 13/49 gearing made second gear less usable, but helped me get into third gear quicker. If you’re riding a tight track and suffer from bad corner technique going to a 13/49 could benefit you more. Decide which tracks you ride the most and what type of rider you are in order to decide which way to go with your gearing. 

Steering Head Nut:

Do yourself a favor and tighten up the steering head nut a little on the 2020-2021 Honda CRF250R. The steering comes too loose from the factory and can cause some knifing in corners and can give you slight head shake on de-cel. Simply tightening the steering head nut a little makes the Honda’s front end feel more planted (less loose feeling) when performing corners/initial lean/turning the handlebars. This is a simple modification, but really helps the Honda’s ride attitude around the track. Sometimes it’s the simple/easy things in life that make a difference. Dirt bikes are no different. 

ECU Map Switch:

I like map three the best for most tracks around these parts and for more torque out of corners. Even though Honda improved their torque for 2020-2021, it still lacks some pulling power out of corners, compared to the Yamaha. Running the 2020 CRF250R in map three will benefit you the most in this situation. This is my preferred map, but map one is also very usable and can pull pull you farther in second/third gear. 

Clutch:  

Going to a Rekluse Torque Drive Clutch Pack will give you better clutch lever feel as well as clutch life. The engagement of the lever ratio doesn't change, but it lets you put more of that horsepower to the rear wheel, without slipping, when hard on the throttle in soft dirt. This is simply a clutch pack and not the complete system. You use the stock OEM inner, outer, basket clutch pieces with this kit. 

Cooling:

I am not going to sit here and say that Honda fixed ALL of their cooling issues with the radiator change they made for 2020-2021. The Honda CRF250R still runs hot and will puke some radiator coolant out of the overflow when riding in the higher RPM’s during a long moto (20-30 minutes). Just keep an eye on your coolant level if you’re riding in hot an or deep sandy conditions. I had to add a little coolant to the radiator on longer, hotter days here in Southern California. Don’t be lazy and you’ll be fine. Oh and don’t sit there in the pits, talking to your buddies while your CRF250R idles. IT WILL PUKE OUT COOLANT! See below for a band aid fix. 

Another Inexpensive Way To Get Less Rigidity:

Renthal Fatbars come stock on all CRF’s and while we like the strength/bend of the new bar, I still feel like they are stiff on slap down landings/square edge. Going to a Pro Taper EVO handlebar will take away some rigidity as well as give you less vibration to your hands. The 4mm wall thickness of the Pro Taper EVO bar is something I have tested back to back against the Renthal Fatbar. Even if you painted both bars black and sent me on a blind test, I would come back within a lap and tell you which bar was which. It’s that noticeable. If you like the stock bar bend try the Pro Taper EVO SX Race bend as that is the closest bend to the stock 839 Honda Fatbar. 

Renthal 839 Fatbar    (L) 802 (H) 91 (R) 51 (S) 51 (mm)

Pro Taper SX Race    (L) 800 (H) 87 (R) 54 (S) 54 (mm)

Top Five Mods:

Clutch:

Going to a Rekluse Torque Drive Clutch Pack will give you better clutch lever feel as well as clutch life. The engagement of the lever ratio doesn’t change, but it lets you put more of that horsepower to the rear wheel, without slipping, when hard on the throttle in soft dirt. This is simply a clutch pack and not the complete system. You use the stock OEM inner, outer, basket clutch pieces with this kit. 

Steering Head Nut:

Do yourself a favor and tighten up the steering head nut a little on the 2020-2021 Honda CRF250R. The steering comes too loose from the factory and can cause some knifing in corners and can give you slight head shake on de-cel. Simply tightening the steering head nut a little makes the Honda’s front end feel more planted (less loose feeling) when performing corners/initial lean/turning the handlebars. This is a simple modification, but really helps the Honda’s ride attitude around the track. Sometimes it’s the simple/easy things in life that make a difference. Dirt bikes are no different. 

Chassis:

Just like I mentioned above, I think the stock engine mounts are the best for feel on the track, but you can drill a 5mm hole in the middle of the top engine mounts if you still feel like you need more chassis compliance on square edge choppy tracks. This is a “FREE” mod that does help! I have learned this with the 2020 Honda CRF450R and this can also apply to the CRF250R

Boyesen Supercooler Kits:

The Boyesen Supercooler flows more water than the stock water pump on the 2020-2021 Honda CRF250R. Boyesen has been working on water pumps since the 90’s and the switch to four-strokes has only made Boyesen’s effort more important. The Honda CRF250R runs very hot. The Boyesen Supercooler can reduce engine temperatures by as much as ten degrees, as confirmed by tests at Team Geico Honda. How does the Supercooler achieve this? Hydrodynamics. Boyesen’s investment-cast aluminum water pump cover has bigger water inlets, a sculpted design, no casting seams, less restrictive corners, a more efficient impeller and less cavitation. Stock water pumps aren’t very hydrodynamic. Their internal shape and impeller can create excessive amounts of air bubbles in the coolant. Air bubbles lessen not only coolant flow, but the amount of coolant per cubic gallon. Boyesen’s Nautilus-shaped cover and impeller increase pump capacity. Boyesen’s water inlet has an increasing diameter and curved shape. This is a big improvement over most stock inlets, which decrease in diameter as they near the impeller and have a 90-degree bend at the pump. Boyesen’s patented impeller design is 25 percent more efficient at moving water than the stock Honda CRF250R design. While I don’t get much overheating in Southern California dirt, I have experienced some of those problems in deeper east coast dirt. Installing this Boyesen product has relieved some of the heat stress on the Honda and has allowed me to go more than one moto without having to add coolant to the Honda’s radiator. 

Yoshimura/FMF Muffler Systems:

Either one of these systems will give an increase in mid range pulling power (compared to stock) as well as some added low end recovery. The FMF has more snap off the bottom than the Yoshimura system, but the Yosh system will give you a little more mid range meat. Compared to the stock system either one of these systems is an improvement to me. The FMF mufflers are considerably louder than the stock system and the Yosh mufflers have a deeper tone in comparison to the stockers. For the money that you will spend on mufflers just know that you will NOT be getting a drastic change in overall power character. Both of these systems alter the engine character some, but don’t expect it to be a mind blowing experience after bolting either one of these systems on. Some motorcycles react better to aftermarket muffler systems than others. 

** Aden (my son) preferred the FMF system on his race bike as he felt more excitement from the FMF system compared to the Yosh system. 

Optional More Expensive Way To Get More Pulling Power:

The Vortex ignition mapped by XPR Motorsports or Twisted Development will give you more low end grunt as well as a pulling power that will increase the length of each gear. The maps that Chad at XPR and Jamie at Twisted have created will allow the rider to lug a little more without the Honda falling off as easy (AKA, more recovery). The down side is that it will cost you around $800.00 to get this mod. However, the plus side to this mod is that it will give you more overall pulling power than an aftermarket muffler system. 

Race Tech Re-Valved Suspension: If you’re looking to get your suspension re-valved for your ability and weight, Race Tech has great settings for Honda CRF’s. Some of the best suspension that I have tried on any late model Honda has been Race Tech. The stock Showa suspension is very good, but for my 170 pound frame it can be a little soft. Getting the Honda re-sprung as well as adding Gold Valves to my fork/shock has dramatically improved how I can push around the track when it gets rough. This mod is not for everyone as some can simply get away with stock suspension, but for those that are competitive and want to push harder into corners, Race Tech can be a great option for you Showa bump sticks.

If you have any questions about this test or the Honda CRF250R please feel free to email me at kris@keeferinctesting.com

2021 Yamaha YZ450F Baseline Settings/Mods

The 2020 and 2021 Yamaha YZ450F’s are identical minus some different graphics, so this gave me a chance to experiment more with standard settings as well as other aftermarket mods for this machine. For a bike that may get some flak thrown its way in the professional motocross racing world, this Yamaha YZ450F machine has treated me exceptionally well this year in my racing endeavors. I have won a Loretta Lynn’s title as well as a Vet World Championship on the exact same machine and haven’t had a huge maintenance list to go through.

Is the Yamaha YZ450F the lightest bike? No. Does it corner the best? No. Does it have the best cockpit? No. To me, when I answer those questions with a “no”, it doesn’t necessarily mean it’s bad. I don’t want a twitchy machine that has tons of cornering strength anyway. When you have a bike that can corner excellent, chances are high that you will have some stability issues. The Yamaha is a great middle of the road machine that does everything good. Below are some key settings, as well as mods, that I have rolled over into my 2021 YZ450F. These can help you drop your lap times, give you more comfort on the track and make a good bike, GREAT! 

Suspension: If you’re sticking with stock valving the 2021 Yamaha YZ450F’s suspension settings are still slightly soft (once suspension is broke in) at times on bigger bumps at speed. Going slower on the action as well as stiffening the compression really helps the whole bike remain planted around the track. The comfort that the KYB SSS fork/suspension has is unmatched and the track toughness it provides makes your life so much less stressful on set up. This setting below will work for most riders ranging from 165-195 pounds with no gear. 

Fork: 

Height: 5mm

Compression: 6-7 clicks out

Rebound: 7-8 clicks out

Shock: 

Sag: 104mm

Low Speed Compression: 8 clicks out

High Speed Compression: 3/4 turns out

Rebound: 7-8 clicks out 

Engine/Power Tuner App: I have tried several maps on the YZ450F, but have always came back to the two below. The stock engine has a lot of bark (rpm response) from 0-10% throttle opening and for the tracks that we have out here (on the west coast) it’s too much at times. For you east coast riders try the “TP5” map as that should be enough bottom to mid range delivery to get you out of that soft soil, yet keep it manageable/linear to hold onto for a 20 minute moto (YES, I AM JEALOUS OF YOUR DIRT!). For all the rest of you, try the TP 3.0 map as that is the map that I use 80% of the time. The linear/easy to roll on throttle delivery along with the longer pulling power that this map has makes it a tractor around the track. This makes connection to the rear wheel much more apparent with this TP version. Yes, these maps will also work on your 2019 YZ450F, so give them a try.…  

Seat: If there is one problem area of the Yamaha it is the seat. The seat still breaks down quickly and can feel clapped out. This makes you feel like you're riding in the Yamaha and not on top. I would say go get a taller GYTR seat, but for some reason, they don’t have any at this time! Come on GYTR, get it together! Since the tall GYTR seat is scarce at the moment, I am sticking with a standard height/density GUTS foam which is actually a little firmer than the OEM foam. If you still can’t find the GYTR tall seat then go to gutsracing.com and get yourself a standard foam.

MX3S or Pirelli MX32 Mid-Soft Front Tire: Yamaha will not want to hear this, but I feel the Yamaha corners better with a Dunlop MX3S/Pirelli MX32 Mid-Soft front tire rather than the stock MX33. If you’re having trouble with initial lean into corners, get yourself a Dunlop MX3S or Pirelli MX32 Mid-Soft front and thank me later. 

Gearing: I tried a 13/50 gearing set up for all you novice riders, but it didn't work as good as the stock 13/49 set up. The stock gearing is just fine for 90% of tracks because the Yamaha’s engine has so much torque that it can pull third gear. Yes, even for you novice riders! Third gear is that “lugable” that you will not stall through corners, just make sure to cover the clutch lever. 

Triple Clamps/Offset: The Yamaha YZ450F doesn't need aftermarket triple clamps nor does it need an offset change. The rigidity balance that the stock clamp has is a blend of comfort and performance that is hard to find with aftermarket clamps. Still having a hard time in corners? Don’t purchase clamps, simply go to a 102mm shock sag setting or go to a fork height of 7mm. I suggest trying one or the other, not both at the same time. This keeps balance as well as keep the superb bump absorption of the chassis/clamps. Some other machines accept aftermarket clamps better than others, but this Yamaha has the most comfort/performance with the stock clamp. Don’t go backwards on your set up by purchasing parts you don’t need!

Muffler: I go back and forth between the Pro Circuit and FMF muffler systems if I am not running the stock muffler. Both systems are smoother off the bottom end and pull more in the mid range than the stocker. I like this because it can actually calm the chassis down a little on acceleration bumps. There is nothing wrong with the stock system, but if you MUST get an aftermarket system go with one of these two brands. 

Enzo Re-Valved Suspension: If there is anyone that knows KYB suspension it’s Ross from Enzo Racing. Ross has been doing my Yamaha bump sticks for years and even though I can be a pain in the ass, the guys at Enzo always seem to find a setting that makes me happy. What exactly did I want to improve upon from the stock stuff? I loved that the stock suspension had tons of comfort in the small bump category, but I needed a little more hold up from the stock suspension when pushing it harder over bigger braking bumps. The fork has a tendency to dive a little when off throttle and that can upset the shock leading into area one of the corner. The Enzo guys improved upon the fork by adding more hold up with the valving, but not going so stiff that the Yamaha gave me deflection on braking bumps. Enzo also incorporated their spring tubes. When I tested back to back with the Enzo spring tubes as well as the stock spring tubes the Enzo setting gave me a little firmer feel through the mid stroke and allowed the bike to be more balanced off throttle (less diving). My fork is still relatively soft in terms of a setting, but it makes for more front end feel through corners and that is key for me because I am a front end steering rider. The shock was also firmed up so that the rear of the YZ450F didn’t squat too much under acceleration. An Enzo high speed adjuster was installed on the shock and that can be felt under heavy loads such as g-outs and jump faces. The Enzo adjuster is slightly different internally (the Enzo guys can explain it better to you then I can) than the stock adjuster, but on the track the rear of the bike tracked straighter under acceleration as well as kept a firmer feel to the end stroke. I kept the stock spring rate in tact on both ends of the bike, but only beefed up the valving in order to achieve a well balanced YZ450 on or off throttle.  

Vortex ECU: I haven’t been that vocal about this mod because it’s so hard to justify spending $800 bucks on an ignition when the Yamaha ECU/Power Tuner app is so good. However after working on a ton of settings on the standard ECU, I decided to try the Vortex to see if I could make the power broader with it versus the stock piece. I have worked on settings with Chad from XPR  and I can say that we have spent many days with at the track trying to make the Yamaha not spool up so quick (light crank feel). You might be asking yourself, “what the hell is spool up”? The Yamaha has a quick revving light crank feel and sometimes that feeling can cause lack of rear end traction when exiting corners. Now this is great when traction is high and the dirt is deep, but once the track gets rough, this Yamaha can be too much to handle compared to a KTM or Husqvarna. Adjusting the ECU via Power Tuner App helps a little, but for safety reasons Yamaha only allows certain parameters, but the Vortex ECU has a wider range of adjustment. Adding the Vortex ECU helps lessen engine braking and also gives the Yamaha a longer power character. Now usually when you get less engine braking in any particular engine character you might feel a more free feeling engine, but with the mapping that Chad created, it makes the power more controllable with less pitching off throttle. The maps that we came up with help rear wheel traction out of corners, allows the rider to ride in third gear even easier, yet allows me to use second gear longer out of corners. Once I got a map (with the Vortex) that wasn’t too powerful, I have noticed an improvement in chassis feel when the track gets rough. The YZ450F can be pushed harder through bumpy conditions now that the delivery of the Yamaha is much broader with less engine braking. I used XPR’s mapping in the Vortex ECU at Loretta Lynn’s and World Vets as I felt more connection to the rear wheel with Chad’s map at the end of the day. I would recommend anyone looking to get more connection as well as more power to get with Chad and ask for the Keefer National & World champion map.

2021 Honda CRF450R Initial Baseline Settings/Mods

I have come to find out that Honda didn’t allocate enough 2021 Honda CRF450R’s to dealerships, so if you’re lucky enough to be able to get your hands on one, you may be looking for a couple fixes and a baseline settings for your new red ride! Have no fear as I have been spending some quality time on the 2021 Honda CRF450R and have come up with a couple fixes as well as a setting that may work for a broad range of riders. Below are a couple mods that you can do for a relatively low cost and get a dramatic change in the way your 2021 CRF450R rides. 

ECU Setting: 

Honda doesn’t exactly want you to change their ECU settings, but in the 2021’s case, we have no choice but to try and get some better maps as the standard 1&2 maps are very rich/dirty feeling on low RPM situations. Honda doesn’t “really” have an ECU tool for the consumer to make custom maps, so we have to leave it up to only a chosen few techs that have the Honda’s programmer. Even when a tech has a Honda programmer, map 1 is locked, so only map 2 and 3 are available to change. I have talked to a few 21’ CRF450R owners that DO NOT feel the rich/dirty feeling, but if you find it bothersome, I have tested some new maps with Jamie from Twisted Development that will help. You can send your stock ECU into Twisted Development for a re-flash that will change your map 2 & 3 settings. With the Twisted re-flash, map 2 now has better pulling power than the standard map two, but still feels long and linear like map 1. Connection is better to the rear wheel now that map two is cleaned up so slow RPM cornering is much cleaner. Acceleration out of corners provides more forward rear wheel bite and helps second gear roll on delivery. The Twisted #3 map has more bottom end snap and pulls harder out of corners, which is great for softer conditions. This map is great for you eat coast soft/loamy riders, but still fairly manageable when the track gets rough. With the Twisted re-flash the 3rd map gives you more bottom mid range with a little less over-rev, so this map is a great third gear roll on map for lazier riders. The Twisted re-flash will set you back $200.00 and is well worth the money considering how bad the standard mapping is on the 2021 Honda CRF450R.  www.td-racing.com or 951-698-7222

Optional Suspension Setting: 

The stock suspension might be too soft for you if you’re anywhere over 180 pounds. Honda has a 5.0 N/m fork spring that is adequate for most, but the valving seems too soft. Out back the 54 N/m shock spring is also way too soft, so if you’re looking for a quick band aid to make your Honda CRF450R better, without going to a re-valve, going a spring rate up on each end has helped me feel more secure on high speed tracks, as well as soft bumpy tracks. Bringing both ends up a little in the stroke (with the heavier spring rates) has given me more front/rear wheel traction as well a Honda that corners better without over-steering. Unlike the 2020 Honda CRF450R going up a spring rate on the 2021 version has given the new red bike more track toughness. If you’re not into spending more money on a re-valve at this time, simply get some heavier springs and try this setting: 

Fork: 

Spring Rate: 5.1 N/m

Height: 2mm

Comp: 11-12 out

Rebound: 11 out

Shock:

Spring Rate: 56 N/m 

L/S Comp: 12 clicks out

H/S Comp: 2 3/4 clicks out

Rebound: 10 clicks out

Sag: 106mm

Test Muffler Shown. Not production model.

FMF 4.1 Muffler System: 

Putting an aftermarket muffler system on isn’t necessarily about more horsepower, but about changing the character of the engine in a way that the Honda needs. I went out and tested three different versions of what FMF is about to offer the consumer and the one I chose looks to be the one that will go into production. So what does the 4.1 system do? What I liked about the 4.1 system right off the bat is that it calmed down the vibration feel that I get on the Honda. For whatever reason bolting on the 4.1 helped the harmonic vibration that I get when hitting higher RPM’s from the stock muffler. This actually gave the Honda more comfort, because it felt less rigid! The 4.1 also made the engine character broader with better low end RPM response, but with a smoother roll on. Mid range is increased as well as slightly more top end/over-rev in 2nd/3rd gears. After going through three different versions of pre-production FMF systems and several headpipe/muffler combinations I was pleased with what we left the track with. I was so pleased that I kept my favorite FMF combination on my test machine. 

2020 KTM 450 SX-F Start Up/Baseline Settings/Tips

The 2020 KTM 450 SX-F came to us with only minimal changes from the 2019 version, but since then we have gained some more knowledge because I have spent so much time on the 450 SX-F. Here are some baseline settings, suggestions, as well as some tips/modifications you can do to help increase the comfort of your new orange brigade machine. 

Engine/ECU: For 2020 KTM fixed most of the 450 SX-F’s ECU problems with the help of some of us media testers. Last year the 2019 ECU setting was rich off the bottom and slightly lean on top, which made for a lethargic/inconsistent throttle delivery. For 2020 the ECU is better and has a more lively feel coming out of corners and still has the super connected rear wheel feeling. I am usually a “map two” kind of rider due to its increased pick up/recovery feel, but sometimes I am looking for that extra puling power that is needed when the track is tilled deep or soft. I have been on the Vortex ignition bandwagon for a couple years with this machine and for 2020 it hasn't wavered. If you want the same great rear wheel connection as well as more pulling power everywhere, look into a Vortex ignition from Chad at XPR Motorsports or Jamie at Twisted Development. I have turned a lot of KTM riders onto this mod and have had a 100% approval ratio. What I like about this modification is that it doesn't hurt reliability and makes for a very usable yet powerful engine for almost every type of rider. Yes, it will set you back around $800.00, but to me is much better than slapping on a muffler system and will do more for your engine. 

Suspension: If you haven't listened to my WP XACT Pro Components suspension podcast you may want to at least check that out, but if you're sticking with the stock suspension for a while, you can try this setting to see if this helps comfort when the track gets rough. This setting below should be in the ballpark for riders around 165-200 pounds, but if you’re heavier than 200 pounds going to a stiffer rear spring wild help the ride attitude of the KTM. I have went to several tracks and tried many different settings, but this specific setting had the most “track toughness”. The KTM’s stock WP suspension doesn't quite have the comfort like the Husqvarna does, but the KTM/WP set also holds up more in the stroke. To get some added comfort back with the added hold up, try this setting. 

Fork (Stock Triple Clamp): 

Height: 5mm

Air Pressure: 10.7 Bars

Compression: 14-15 clicks out

Rebound: 16 clicks out

*With KTM Hard Parts Triple Clamps*

Height: 5mm

Air Pressure: 10.7-10.8 Bars

Compression: 12 clicks out

Rebound: 15 clicks out

Shock:

Sag: 103mm

Low Speed Compression: 13 clicks out

High Speed Compression: 1-1/2 to 1-3/4 turns out

Rebound:  12 clicks out

Chassis: Aftermarket engine mounts are all the rage right now and some of you may not have the money to spend on a pair of engine mounts for your KTM. I will say that I don’t feel like the KTM chassis is stiff, but I have heard from other vet riders that it can be at times, so I decided to play around with torque specs on the engine mounts and stumbled across this. If you’re experiencing a stiff feeling chassis sensation and want the KTM to settle while leaning (under throttle), there is an inexpensive way to achieve some extra front end traction (as well as an overall more planted feel). You can remove the left side upper engine mount bolt (upper right bolt only, as shown) and torque all other top engine mount bolts to 30Nm. This band aid will give you a more planted sensation when on throttle while leaning the KTM 450SX-F through sweepers and fast straights. You will have to make sure that all engine mount bolts have blue Loctite to ensure they do not back out (you should do this regardless if you keep all the bolts in or not). You can also try torquing your swingarm pivot bolt to 95 Nm (instead of 100Nm) to help rear end traction out of corners. The downside to doing these mods is that the chassis will flex a little more, so if you’re riding deep tilled tracks this modification may be too “flexy” for some (especially when chopping throttle).  

Handlebars: The stock Neken handlebar is too stiff and doesn't offer too much comfort. Get yourself a set of Pro Taper bars and make your arms and hands happy again. The Pro Taper SX Race bar worked well for riders from 5’8 to 6’1. The SX Race bend comes in a crossbar or crossbar-less style and is 800mm width, 87mm height, 54.5 rise, and 54mm sweep. If you’re looking for a better “stand up feel” from your KTM look for handlebar close to this measurement. If you do like the stock bar try the Pro Taper Husqvarna Stock bend.  

Triple Clamps: After riding back to back with the stock triple clamps and the KTM hard parts clamps I have realized that the stock clamps are stiffer. I have since installed the KTM Hard Parts triple clamp (or the 2019.5 Factory Edition clamp) on the 2020 KTM 450 SX-F with excellent results. The front end has more of a softer initial touch on slap downs and the fork action is smoother on de-cel bumps. It’s crazy to think that the fork feels softer now with the “Hard Parts” clamp installed, but that is exactly how it feels when going to the “Hard Parts” clamp. I was able to increase my compression damping a little to help hold up off-throttle and kept more comfort through the entire stroke (with the stock AER fork) with the “Hard Parts” clamp. I also get slightly more lean angle front end traction (or cornering stability) with this “Hard Parts” clamp because the front end isn't bouncing around inside long/choppy ruts. 

Rear Brake Pedal Spring: Purchase a Honda CRF450R rear brake pedal spring with the rubber around the spring. The KTM rear brake pedal spring vibrates and will break every 3-4 engine hours. Orrrrrrrrr. Get a KTM rear brake pedal spring and wrap it with plastic tubing, but to me it’s easier just to get the Honda spring and be done with it. 

Gearing: I like the stock 13/49 gearing, but for sand I prefer the 14/52 gearing for mid rpm recovery and chassis feel. Yes, going to a 14/52 will put your rear wheel back more than the 13/49 and get you some extra high speed stability with the 14/52. At tracks like Glen Helen I go with a 14/52 because I get that extra planted/stable feeling coming down hills. 

Rear Axle/Axle Blocks: Going to a Works Connection Elite axle block kit or Ride Engineering axle block kit will get rid of the fixed left axle block on the stock KTM’s axle. This will help the rear end to move more freely under throttle and improve the shock’s comfort on acceleration chop. Both are great, but you will have to decide if you want a complete axle/axle block kit like Ride Engineering’s or just the blocks themselves like WC’s.

Muffler: To me FMF makes the best muffler system for the KTM 450 SX-F. There are some other companies that have other bikes dialed in more, but on the KTM, FMF has got it dialed. You will get more low to mid RPM response as well as more mid range pulling power. Top end is increased plus the over-rev is as good as stock. It is one of the few times that I was impressed because it was actually better than stock in almost all areas. The downside is that you must keep up on muffler packing (every 10-12 engine hours) because the FMF will blow out and that could damage your expensive titanium can. Did I mention that you will lose almost two pounds with this system? If you slap on spring forks you will be gaining almost three pounds. You can get most of that back with a 4.1 Titanium FMF Muffler system.   

If you have any questions about your KTM please feel free to email me at kris@keeferinctesting.com. 

2020 Yamaha YZ250F Baseline/Start Up Settings/Tips

The Yamaha YZ250F is un-changed for 2020 so this baseline set up article can be used for the 2019 YZ250F as well. The Yamaha is the easiest small bore four stroke motocross machine to ride with its torquey low end and improved top end pulling power that Yamaha came up with in 2019. For this test we focused on trying to keep the comfort that the Yamaha comes with, but also try to get the YZ250F to accept a rider that wants to push his limits on this bike. Below are some settings that we think may be able to help drop your lap times while keeping the Yamaha planted underneath you. 

Suspension:  

The KYB/SSS/Yamaha suspension has the most comfort out of any bike in stock form, but if you want to start pushing the bike’s limits it can get soft and spongy feeling. After our initial test we took the 2020 Yamaha YZ250F to three vastly different types of tracks and noticed as the bike broke in all riders wanted more hold up from the suspension. We tried going to a heavier 4.8N/m fork spring (4.7N/m is stock) with the stock valving and to all three testers (160, 170, 190 pounds) liked the hold up and calmness that the stiffer spring came with. The heavier front spring helped the Yamaha’s chassis under heavy braking and each rider was able to push into rough corners harder without as much pitching. Settling into ruts was also easier because of the calm front fork feel. The rear of the bike can accept heavier riders better than the front so going to a stiffer rear spring for us wasn't warranted. What we really liked about this setting is that it didn't upset chassis balance and only improved the bike’s overall feel out on the track. Only a small increase of firmness was felt on the top of the fork’s stroke, but all riders agreed that the trade off was worth it. 

Fork: 

 Height: 5mm (Stock is 7mm)

Spring Rate: 4.8N/m (Stock is 4.7N/m)

Compression: 12 (Stock is 11 clicks out)

Rebound: 9-10 clicks out (Stock is 9 clicks out) 

*Optional Stock Spring Fork Setting*

Height: 4mm

Spring Rate: 4.7N/m

Compression: 8 clicks out

Rebound: 7 clicks out

Shock:

Sag: 105mm

Spring Rate: 55N/m

High Speed Compression: 1.25 Turn Out (1 Turn Out Is Stock)

Low Speed Compression: 8-9 clicks out (10 clicks out is stock)

Rebound: 9 clicks out (11 clicks out is stock)

ECU/Yamaha Power Tuner:

I really felt that the 2020 Yamaha YZ250F could benefit from a free-er engine feel on de-cel so I worked on a map to try and achieve this. This “Keefer Free Feeling” map gives you less pitching on de-cel coming into the corners and also made the Yamaha feel lighter through mid-corner, which helped keeping the lean through corners as well as change of direction. I felt like I could give up a small amount of torque to achieve this and that is what you will find when going to this map. You will get slightly less torque, keep that great mid-range pull as well as a slight increase in top end. If you want to also sacrifice a little torque feeling and increase the second and third gear pulling power (with the same amount of engine braking the stock map gives) go to the “Hard Hitting Map” Yamaha has pre-programmed on your Yamaha Power Tuner App. I use the “Hard Hitting” for my base map and the Free Feeling” map for my secondary map. Please don’t forget to update your apps on your phone as Yamaha does update their Power Tuner with new maps from time to time. 

Chassis: 

Please for the love of all things holy DO NOT screw/change the engine mounts on this machine. I will say that some aftermarket engine mounts will help some other OEM’s frame feel for the better, but in the case of the Yamaha YZ250F, it really doesn't need aftermarket mounts. I have no problem pushing products that work, based on each individual machine, but that doesn't mean that specific part works for every single machine. Some machines could benefit with a softer/stiffer mount combo, but to me Yamaha did a great job of blending comfort with cornering stiffness for 95% of us “normal” folk. When trying some aftermarket engine mounts on the 2019 YZ250F it made the bike have less predictability when the track got rough. When smooth I could see some benefit on initial lean through corners (lighter feel), but when the track got hammered the Yamaha was tougher to get into the corner because the damping character of the chassis was harsher on de-cel bumps. Could you make aftermarket engine mounts work on this bike? I am sure you could with the help of some suspension tuning, but the purpose of this article is to get you increased comfort/more performance with less hassle and money. If we were talking 2018 Honda or 2019-2020 Suzuki, I would be steering you into the aftermarket engine mount direction, but we are talking bLU cRU here people! 

Gearing:   

Two out of three test riders preferred the stock 13/50 gearing, but our slower heavier guy with less cornering technique liked going more the MXA (one tooth up) (13/51) route. Say what you want about going only “one tooth” up on a sprocket, but I can tell you that it does help on some machines with riders that have problems with using third gear in corners. The Yamaha has enough torque for intermediate type riders to use third gear in corners, but novices will appreciate a 13/51 ratio more to help them recover from mistakes. Going to this gearing will shorten the length of second and third gears, but it will allow you to short shift better and use the meat of the Yamaha’s power just like it was developed/intended. 

Seat: 

Do yourself a favor and get a 2020 YZ450F seat or a GUTS Racing firm seat foam. Yamaha changed the seat shape/stiffness in 2019, but still the middle of the seat can breakdown quickly and get soft. The fuel tank and subframes rails are not friendly when leaning on the edge of your seat or when you decide to seat bounce an obstacle out of a corner. 

Rider Triangle:

Yamaha’s rider triangle can be cramped for some taller riders, but simply going to the forward bar mount hole (on the triple clamp) with mount faced back will get you 16mm’s of more room. The 2020 YZ450F comes like this stock, but you can do that slight tweak yourself and get more weight over the front end. I am 6’0 and prefer the rear hole with the mount forward, but I have heard more than one taller rider complain about being cramped on the Yamaha. I have yet to try moving the pegs down/back, but will look into this as an option for you taller riders.

Maintenance: 

We have ridden the 2019 YZ250F a ton and although haven't had anything major go wrong with our YZ250F we did go through two stock batteries. Our YZ450F has never had a battery issue, but our YZ250F needed help in this area. We installed a FirePower battery in our test bike and had no other battery related issues. I also have received emails about timing chains going out and if we ran into this problem. The answer is no, but if you are a high revving, faster intermediate/pro type of rider, changing a timing chain every 20 hours is not uncommon. Follow your owners manual for regular scheduled maintenance, but just know that those maintenance schedules that Yamaha “suggests” aren't based on every type of rider. Each rider is different, but for the average rider/racer the Yamaha still has superb durability and is one of the few bikes that gives me less headaches during the course of the year. Please don’t believe everything you read on message boards and consider asking and trusting people and/or media outlets that spend a lot of time on these machines. I mean if I search up “headaches” on WebMD, I usually will read that I have some sort of Cancer and I should go to the hospital ASAP. Just because “Bobby Two Stroke” says Yamaha’s are ticking time bombs doesn’t mean they really are. Oh and you most likely DO NOT have Cancer, so everyone chill down. Sometimes message boards are a lot like WebMD, so proceed with some sort of caution. I am all not saying that a YZ250F’s will never blow up because they can just like any other machine. Take care of this bike and most likely it will take care of you.

Throttle Play:

Check your YZ250F’s throttle play when you get it home. Most of the units I have seen have had a ton of free play in the throttle. The bad news is you are not able to adjust it all the way out with the top throttle cable adjusters. You will have to adjust the cables play on the throttle body in order to get most of it out. After adjusting the throttle play on the throttle body, proceed to adjust the top throttle cable adjusters to get the desired free play. Throttle play is a preference, but to me there is way too much throttle play, off the showroom floor, on the YZ250F. I have went to a couple dealerships and blipped throttles just to check and most had A LOT of play. Check your throttle free play!   

Wear Items:

I am not a huge fan of the stock grips on the YZ250F as they feel fat, the chain guide and slider are actually pretty damn good on the YZ250F compared to other Japanese machines, sprockets and chains are your average 10 hour change out items, I go through clutch plates every 10-12 hours and I am fairly abusive on clutches, the 2020 air filter seals better thanks in part to a rubber grommet in the middle of the filter, but leave the backfire screen in for added dirt/particle safety, and the Bridgestone X20’s provide a good amount of traction and lean angle grip, but when they wear down slightly they are very un-predictable under hard lean angle.

If you have any questions about the 2020 Yamaha YZ250F please feel free to ask away at kris@keeferinctesting.com. Hopefully we can give you an intelligent and enlightening answer, but if we don’t know the answer to your question, we simply will reply with an “I don’t know”. We don’t know everything.

2020 Honda CRF250R Start Up/Baseline Settings/Tips

I have been testing the 2020 Honda CRF250R at more than a few different tracks trying to get this baseline setting article out to you all. I have finally found a few settings that I think most of you could appreciate as well as benefit from. With Honda being one of only two manufacturers to change their 250’s significantly for 2020, I wanted to make sure all you new 2020 CRF250R owners or future buyers had a great starting point. Here are some settings that will help you enjoy your ride more and tinker with less: 

Suspension: 

In stock form the Showa suspension on the 2020 Honda CRF250R has decent comfort on de-cel bumps, but lacks a little hold up for riders ranging from 160-190 pounds. If you’re over 190 pounds going up a spring rate on each end is your ticket to a better handling CRF250R. After riding with this setting below at three different tracks, more than one time around, I figured out that this baseline suspension setting gave the 2020 Honda CRF250R the most “track toughness”. If you happen to feel like the fork is harsher (through the mid stroke) with this setting, simply open up the rebound (faster) back to stock setting. This will help free up the fork slightly under front end load (off-gas). The shock needs just a little more hold up under acceleration so simply going stiffer/slower on low speed compression/rebound gives the rider more comfort and added traction out of corners. I tried experimenting with high speed compression, but the Honda is finicky with high speed. Going stiffer on high speed compression (shock) put too much weight on the front end (fork) creating a harsher feeling front fork.

Fork: 

Height: 3mm (Stock is 5mm)

Compression: 7-8 clicks out (Stock is 9 clicks out)

Rebound: 10 clicks out (Stock is 11 clicks out) 

Shock:

Sag: 100-101mm

High Speed Compression: 2-5/6

Low Speed Compression: 10 clicks out (11 clicks out is stock)

Rebound: 5 clicks out (6 clicks out is stock)

Chassis:

As of right now I prefer the stock engine mounts torqued to the OEM/manual settings. Some bikes react better to aftermarket engine mounts than others and as of right now I feel the best settings (for comfort) come from the stock engine mounts. You can however torque the swingarm pivot bolt to 52 ft.lbs. for increased flex under throttle, while leaning. If you feel like the rear end is planted and doesn't deflect under load on chop please leave it at the OEM/manual torque spec. If you feel like the Honda is standing up through mid corner simply go back up to 5mm on fork height with the above suspension specs to help mid corner lean.

Gearing: 

I went back and forth between the stock 13/48 gearing and 13/49, but ultimately decided on sticking with stock. Why? I felt the 13/49 gearing made second gear less usable and didn't help me get into third gear any quicker. The 13/49 robs too much top end away from second and third gears on medium to faster flowy tracks. If you’re riding a tight track and suffer from bad corner technique going to a 13/49 could benefit you more. Decide which tracks you ride the most and what type of rider you are in order to decide which way to go with your gearing. 

Steering Head Nut:

Do yourself a favor and tighten up the steering head nut a little on the 2020 Honda CRF250R. The steering comes too loose from the factory and can cause some knifing in corners and can give you slight head shake on de-cel. Simply tightening the steering head nut a little makes the Honda’s front end feel more planted (less loose feeling) when performing corners/initial lean/turning the handlebars. This is a simple modification, but really helps the Honda’s ride attitude around the track. Sometimes it’s the simple/easy things in life that make a difference. Dirt bikes are no different.

ECU Map Switch:

I like map three the best for most tracks around these parts and for more torque out of corners. Even though Honda improved their torque for 2020, it still lacks some pulling power out of corners, compared to the Yamaha. Running the 2020 CRF250R in map three will benefit you the most in this situation. This is my preferred map, but map one is also very usable and can pull pull you farther in second/third gear. 

Clutch:  

Going to a Rekluse Torque Drive Clutch Pack will give you better clutch lever feel as well as clutch life. The engagement of the lever ratio doesn't change, but it lets you put more of that horsepower to the rear wheel, without slipping, when hard on the throttle in soft dirt. This is simply a clutch pack and not the complete system. You use the stock OEM inner, outer, basket clutch pieces with this kit.

Cooling:

I am not going to sit here and say that Honda fixed ALL of their cooling issues with the radiator change they made for 2020. The Honda CRF250R still runs hot and will puke some radiator coolant out of the overflow when riding in the higher RPM’s during a long moto (20-30 minutes). Just keep an eye on your coolant level if you’re riding in hot an or deep sandy conditions. I had to add a little coolant to the radiator on longer, hotter days here in Southern California. Don’t be lazy and you’ll be fine. I am looking into trying a couple things to help this situation in the future so check back here for more updates on this.

Inexpensive Way To Get Less Rigidity:

Renthal Fatbars come stock on all CRF’s and while we like the strength/bend of the new bar, I still feel like they are stiff on slap down landings/square edge. Going to a Pro Taper EVO handlebar will take away some rigidity as well as give you less vibration to your hands. The 4mm wall thickness of the Pro Taper EVO bar is something I have tested back to back against the Renthal Fatbar. Even if you painted both bars black and sent me on a blind test, I would come back within a lap and tell you which bar was which. It’s that noticeable. If you like the stock bar bend try the Pro Taper EVO SX Race bend as that is the closest bend to the stock 839 Honda Fatbar. 

Renthal 839 Fatbar    (L) 802 (H) 91 (R) 51 (S) 51 (mm)

Pro Taper SX Race    (L) 800 (H) 87 (R) 54 (S) 54 (mm)

If you have any questions about your Honda or anything in this article please feel free to email me and hopefully I can help you out. kris@keeferinctesting.com

2020 Kawasaki KX250 Baseline/Start Up Settings

We had a chance to shake down the new Kawasaki KX250 some more and went to a few tracks with three different riders to find a baseline setting for all you new KX owners to try. These settings were agreed upon by all testers that weighed from 150-190 pounds and varying from Novice-Pro. 

Suspension: The new KYB suspension is a step in the right direction for Kawasaki in 2020, but we felt it was slightly unbalanced coming from the showroom floor. The fork held up well on de-cel, but the shock rode low in the stroke at times under acceleration. All riders agreed that they could use a better balance/ride attitude around the track. Try this setting in order to get the KX250 to hold up in the rear more under acceleration while trying to keep comfort on de-cel. 

Fork:

Compression: 12 clicks out

Rebound: 9 out

Height: 5mm 

Shock:

L/S Compression: 5 clicks out

H/S Compression: 1-1/4 turns out

Rebound: 15 out

Sag: 103-104mm

Engine/Coupler: We tried all the couplers and while most agreed the stock green coupler gave the most overall useable power around the track, the riders who had cornering technique issues or slower entrance speeds, liked the white (lean) coupler better for low end recovery and rpm response. The white coupler will fall of earlier on top end and not have quite as much over-rev as the green coupler so just know you will lose some of the KX250’s superb top end pulling power. The black coupler will be good for extreme hard pack or loose conditions. The rear of the Kawasaki will hook up better as well as make the chassis feel more planted on throttle. The black coupler will also be friendlier to riders that are new to 250F’s and will not have as much rpm response to scare them off.  

ECU: We used Kawasaki’s Calibration Tool to tweak the fuel and ignition timing in order to try and get some of the 2019 KX250’s bottom end/torque back. The 2020 did lose a small amount of low end, but we were in the market to get some of that back for 2020. The map you see below will get you some of that torque back when exiting corners while maintaining the excellent mid-top end power that the 2020 comes with. Use the stock green coupler with this ECU setting…

Rider Triangle: The test riders we used ranged from 5’8 to 6’0 tall and all used the stock bar mount/footpeg position. If you’re 6’1 and above going to the forward hole with the mount back is a good way to get some added/room comfort when sitting. If you like the 7/8 sized Renthal handlebar, but find it too tall for your liking, go with a 983 Renthal 7/8 bar as that bend will be slightly lower and flatter.

Gearing: 13/50 gearing is just fine for the Intermediate to Pro level rider with either the green or white coupler. If you’re a heavier rider that is lazier in corners you can try a 13/51 gearing to help you get back into the meat of the power sooner. We suggest using the green coupler with our preferred ECU setting with the 13/51 gearing however. This will ensure that mid-top end pulling power doesn’t fall off too soon.

Any questions about this bike you can reach out to us at kris@keeferinctesting.com.

2019 Kawasaki KX450 Optional Set Up Notes

I have been spending a lot of time on this 2019 Kawasaki KX450 lately and have been enjoying my days with the green machine! The Kawasaki engineers should be proud with how their production machine came out and the consumer/buyer should be as well. However, that doesn't mean I will not experiment and try other settings to see if I can improve on the this 2019 Kawasaki  KX450. I wanted to share with you some of the settings that I have came up with since the "First Impression" podcast. If you have a 2019 KX450 and want to "tinker", give these a whirl and see if it helps you out on the track! As always feel free to email me your questions, concerns or maybe how you liked these settings! Hit me up at kris@keeferinctesting.com. Enjoy!   

Engine: 

Optional Keefer_1 map (Linear, More Control, Bottom End Pull With Increased Mid To Top End)

The engine on the 2019 KX450 in stock trim is exciting and makes the Kawasaki feel light. It has great RPM response, but does have a little dip from bottom to mid, so we created this map to help fill that dip in and make it pull slightly longer. You will notice a slightly more linear (more control at low RPM) pull down low without the jerky feeling through corners. With this map installed it helped settle the chassis down through long ruts. In the testing world we call this "cornering stability". With this map installed it helped the 2019 KX450's cornering stability, especially on intermediate terrain. You will need to plug the white coupler in and use the Kawasaki FI Calibration Tool to create this map. *SEE BELOW*

Optional Keefer_2 Map: (To Try With After Market Muffler System To Help De-Cel Popping) 

If you plan on installing a slip on or full aftermarket muffler system on your fresh 2019 KX450, use this map below to help reduce de-cel pop and increase pulling power through mid-top end. Chances are that you might have some de-cel popping when you install an aftermarket muffler and are running the white or green coupler. Simply installing the black coupler will help this de-cel popping, but takes aways some of the Kawasaki's RPM excitement. By using this map with the black coupler you get that RPM excitement back with a small amount of mid to top end pull increase. Try it if your aftermarket muffler gives you "The De-Cel Pops"! If it is NOT popping DO NOT worry about it and continue on with your life. This is for riders that experience de-cel pop only. *SEE BELOW*

Suspension: 

The 2019 KX450 can experience a little pitching on de-cel especially when the track is tilled up deep or sandy. I spent some time with the Kawasaki technicians and really worked on trying to keep the KX450 balanced (while keeping comfort) around the track. Below are two settings that I came up with that will help two different types of tracks/dirt. One is for very soft/heavy dirt and the other is geared towards more Southern California type tracks. Try these if you're experiencing any type of pitching or if you just want to experiment when you're riding. Note: "Pitching" is when the bike dives too hard towards the front end (fork is low) and makes the rear of the bike feel high when off-throttle. This causes instability coming into corners.

Soft Dirt Setting: (Note: "Plus" means stiffer or slower and "Minus" means softer or faster. When trying clicker ranges go one click at a time on fork as this Showa suspension is sensitive to clicks. When stiffening low speed compression on shock "4 clicks" equals "1 turn")   

Fork: 

Spring Rate 0.51 Spring (0.50 is stock) *If B level rider and over 200 pounds 0.52 springs is also a great option*

Oil Level: Standard

Compression Range: Stock to Plus three

Rebound Range: Stock To Plus One

Shock:

Spring Rate: Standard

Low Speed Compression Range: Plus Eight Clicks (Equals Two Turns) 

High Speed Compression Range: Stock To Minus 1/4 Turn

Rebound Range: Stock To Plus Two

Southern California Dirt Setting: (Note: "Plus" means stiffer or slower and "Minus" means softer or faster. When trying clicker ranges go one click at a time on  fork as this Showa fork is sensitive to clicks. When stiffening low speed compression on shock "4 clicks" equals "1 turn")

Fork: 

Spring Rate: Stock

Oil Level: Standard

Compression Range: Plus Three To Plus Four

Rebound Range: Minus Two (Important to speed up your rebound when going stiffer on this fork. If you don't speed up rebound, when going stiffer, the fork stays too low in stroke and almost feels sticky on de-cel.)

Shock:

Spring Rate: Stock

Low Speed Compression Range: Plus Eight Clicks (Equals Two Turns)

High Speed Compression Range: Stock To Minus 1/4 Turn

Rebound Range: Stock To Plus Two