2022 Kawasaki KX250 Review/Suspension Settings

No, the 2022 KX250 IS NOT changed from the 2021 model, but that didn’t stop us from getting a re-fresher on the green machine. Below, we will walk you through some positives and negatives of the bike to see if it could be the right bike for you. If this is not enough green content for your eyes, you can also listen to show #256 of the RMATVMC Keefer Tested Podcast to get more insight on the 2022 KX250. Also look below for some baseline settings for the green machine.

Engine:

Even though the 2022 KX250 engine has been unchanged, Kawasaki is still one of the top three 250 four stroke engines in my opinion. I like that this engine can rev to 14,500 and you can feel that on the track when riding! The 2022 KX250′s engine characteristics are the same to the 2021 package with that great over-rev because of the increased rev limit they achieved in 2021. They achieved this higher rpm mainly by adding stiffer valve springs along with new camshaft timing. The power delivery is definitely better if you keep the rpm up and although the green bike doesn’t have that Yamaha mid range meat, it still pulls strong. Maintaining the correct gear is also important, meaning second gear will be used in most corners and will not give you that lugability like the Yamaha. The engine revs far enough that shifting to third gear is not needed until you have exited the corner and down the straight a bit. The FI mapping runs right great from the get-go.

There are three different preprogrammed settings available. These are changed via a coupler located on the right side just by the steering stem. Green is standard, white is aggressive, and black is mellow. This is the same system as what comes on the KX450. I tested all three and found improvements in certain areas with the white and black couplers. Each had improvements, but they also had some drawbacks. The Kawasaki technicians created a custom map that uses the ignition settings of the white coupler and the fuel mapping of the black coupler, which made for a noticeable improvement in the overall power and was accomplished by increasing the midrange torque, which helped it continue to make power further into the highest of rpm. I wouldn’t say it was huge, but it helped with mid rpm torque and seemed to make the power even longer into the upper rpm range. This is called the Chavez Map which has been around for a couple years now.

To do this custom mapping on your own, you would need to buy the accessory KX FI Calibration Kit, which retails for $699.95. It can be found on the Kawasaki website and ordered through your local dealer. This is an added expense, but if you are serious enough about your racing, you are probably already planning on getting your suspension revalved and purchasing an aftermarket exhaust, race gas, and more. So, it is worth considering adding this tool to your race budget.

Clutch:

The hydraulic clutch works well and to me isn't as on/off as the Brembo system. This Nissin unit is the same system that is used on the KX450 and it has proven to work well. The clutch assembly is also using a cone-disc spring in place of a coil-spring system. The clutch friction plates have three different materials to help reduce clutch fade from heat. The clutch works well and plate life is on par with the Honda CRF450R system. It was easy to modulate and because of the hydraulic system, there was no fade during our motos. Shifting under load was reasonably easy with only the smallest amount of clutch lever input, which is much better than the KTM under load.

Chassis/Ergos:

The KX250 chassis is based off the same platform as the KX450. For me, at 5’11, the Kawasaki chassis fits me well and I would say this would be true for most riders. The feel is almost Honda’esq but slimmer feeling. The rider triangle is neutral with plenty of room for adjustment. The handlebar can be moved forward or backward and the footpegs have an optional lower position for taller riders or someone looking to try to lower the bike’s center of gravity. The chassis is also narrow—possibly one of the narrowest four-stroke bikes on the market. Sitting on the KX250, I would say it is a little more of a sitting on top of the bike feeling, but not sitting as high as a KTM or Husqvarna.

The brakes are also great on the KX250 for 2022. The front brake system is the same as the KX450 including the 270mm front rotor. That means the bike now comes with the KX’s very distinct, thin front brake lever. The 250 rear brake has a smaller 240mm rear rotor (down from 250mm on 2020 model). The front brake lever is noticeably thinner than most other brands and to me is annoying. It is fairly easy to modulate and offers a medium to firm feel. The rear brake is noticeably improved with the smaller 240mm rotor over the KX450. Going to the 240 rear rotor helps the rear brake feel less touchy/grabby.

Suspension:

(150-170 Pounds)

Fork: 

Spring Rate: 4.9 N/mm

Height: 4mm

Compression: 11-12 clicks out 

Rebound: 10 clicks out 

Shock:

Spring Rate: 54 N/mm

Sag: 103mm

High Speed Compression: 1.25 turns out

Low Speed Compression: 8 clicks out

Rebound: 10 clicks out 

(175-200 Pounds)

Fork: 

Spring Rate: 4.9 N/mm

Height: 4mm

Compression: 9-10 clicks out 

Rebound: 12 clicks out 

Shock:

Spring Rate: 56 N/mm

Sag: 104mm

High Speed Compression: 1.5 turns out

Low Speed Compression: 11 clicks out

Rebound: 9 clicks out

50 Hours On The 2022 KTM 250 SX-F

We have been hammering down a lot of motos on the 2022 KTM 250SX-F before it has to make its way back to the KTM offices to make way for the 2022.5 KTM 250 Factory Edition. There are still some consumers out there that are concerned about KTM’s durability and wonder if you can trust the Austrian machine over the course of several hard hours. Well to try and give some real world feedback, we have purposely been a little “over abusive” on this orange test steed to see if in fact we can trust the KTM engineers and their R&D department. We have just went over the 50 hour mark last week and have accumulated over 20 of those hours in the past four weeks on rough test tracks near our home. This KTM 250 SX-F has seen its fair share of the testing workload on many parts, accessories and product evaluations in its 50 hour lifespan. A 50 hour engine, on my scale, is like a 75-80 hour engine on a regular blue collar average weekend racer/rider. If you’re looking for shiny new photos of the 2022 KTM 250 SX-F you came to the wrong place. This thing is a work horse and not a show pony. Below are some of the key points I wanted to share with you current 2022 KTM 250 SX-F owners and maybe potential KTM buyers about our test unit. 

2022 KTM 250 SX-F:

 Engine Hours 50.1 

Tires: Dunlop MX3S/MX33 13.5/12.5 PSI 

Bars: Pro Taper Evo Suzuki Race Team Cut to 805mm

Grips: Pro Taper 1/3 Waffle Race Cut

Levers: Stock

Throttle: ZRT Grey Cam 

Rider Triangle: Stock

Gearing: 14/52 Sunstar Sprockets/DID ERT3 Chain

Engine Mods: None

Muffler: FMF 4.1/ Akrapovic Evolution 

Engine Oil: Blud Racing 10/40 Pro Series

Fuel: Renegade SX4+

Holeshot Device: WC

Graphics/Seat: Throttle Syndicate

Suspension: REP Racing Test Fork/Shock Spec #AK4

Air Filter: Twin Air Power Flow Kit 

Engine/ECU Settings: KTM’s R&D department has done a good job with their ECU settings on the KTM 250 SX-F, but we were looking for more bottom end on this specific model when Aden races. Being in the B class out in California requires you to keep up with the Joneses so to speak so adding a little “meat” to the KTM 250 SX-F wasn’t off the table. When you first get your KTM 250 SX-F and ride her it may feel very tight, sluggish off the bottom end, slight de-cel popping, as well as have more engine braking than we would like. Some of these symptoms die off after 8-10 hours of riding time on the engine. We used the stock ECU box/settings for the first 18 hours and we had some of those symptoms until around hour 9, then the de-cel popping went away and also some of that sluggish feeling coming out of corners. So does that mean you current 2022 KTM 250 SX-F owners are screwed? No. I just wanted to make it clear that this bike is very much rideable in stock form without a ECU re-flash. 

If you DO NOT want to spend the money on a Vortex ignition you can get your standard box re-flashed from Jamie at Twisted Development. Jamie has a better ECU setting for you current orange brigade riders out there. If you DO want to spend the extra $800.00 or so, the Vortex is simply magic for this engine. The engine delivery still remains so smooth yet easier to ride and increases the use of second and third gear. Going to the Vortex ignition gives you the option to ride with less effort while decreasing your lap times because the workload is simply less with the power character the Vortex gives the orange machine. I repeat you DO NOT have to have the Vortex to make the KTM 250 SX-F engine better! You can save some money and re-flash your current ECU, but if you want the most out of the engine without busting into it, this Vortex is really good!

What about durability once you go with a Vortex ignition? I have yet to have any durability issues with going to an aftermarket ECU that is correctly mapped from either said company above. It is one of the only modifications you can make to your machine that will make a noticeable difference in power without sacrificing the lifespan of your engine. 

What about clutch life? Aden is not really hard on clutches, but we literally can go over 30 hours on one clutch and when we did check it, it was still good! At the 50.1 hour mark we have only installed one clutch. We change out the engine oil every 4 hours and use a 10/40 Synthetic by Blue Lubricants. We also DO NOT notice slippage under load when the engine gets hot. The hydraulic clutch is something that we have come to appreciate more through the years and although the engagement of the KTM is a little on/off feeling, the overall performance of the clutch itself is amazing under heavy race oriented type stress. 

What about engine maintenance? I am not going to sit here and tell you I am some great mechanic and I am busing out valve clearance checks every 20 hours. We did check the valve clearance after 25 hours and they were within spec and I haven't checked them since. Like I mentioned above I have used Blud Racing 10/40 in this bike and have changed the oil every 4 hours. I am usually a 2-3 engine hour oil change kind of guy, but the KTM has held the rigorous amount of riding time that I have put on it.

Chassis/Suspension: During the course of the 50 hours we spent on this machine, we decided to stick with the stock WP suspension, but had it valved from REP/AEO. We wanted to stick with the AER fork and see if we could get it comfortable enough and not have to resort to a spring conversion. The setting that Mark at REP provided us gave more front end feel through the fork/front end and was more consistent throughout the day than the stock setting. My 135 pound son had a chance to ride with some WP Pro Components set up for him, but he actually chose the AER set up because he liked how much comfort he had versus the Pro Component fork. The REP valved shock had better high speed compression feel on heavy loads and the combination of the new valving and REP knuckle/link provided more rear wheel traction than the stock set up we used before this REP setting. If you're a weekend warrior just looking for more comfort on your KTM 250SX-F, there is hope that you can get that with some re-valving though REP. 

Gearing: We have ran the stock gearing as well as tried going to a 14/52 and found out that we like the 14/52 set up to get some extra low end snap as well as third gear roll on out of corners. We like the 14/52’s traction character out of corners, but you must realize that you can shift a little earlier with this gearing to feel that extra rear wheel traction. With the stock gearing, the KTM 250 SX-F kind of forces you to use second gear longer, but with the added tooth, it can help you third gear luggers. Give it a try if you're a third gear kind of rider. We also only have changed the Sunstar sprockets/DID ERT 3 chain once during this 50 hour period! 

Handlebars/Grips: My son and I are both crossbar-less type of riders so we chose the Pro Taper EVO Race Team bend that just came out from Pro Taper. The Race Team bend is a 810mm width, 91mm height, 49mm rise, 52mm sweep and is a great flat that keeps you over the front of the machine. We can get over the front of the bike better out of corners, but our elbows are up a little more naturally and we feel better when standing on the bike. If you're a crossbar kind of guy, the Pro Taper Fuzion bar has a EVO-ish flex character and will not feel as rigid as some other crossbar brands. Also note that the stock lock-on-grips/throttle tube also can get heavy after around 20 hours, so check your plastic tube for wear. The plastic on the lock on grips can get rough inside and make your throttle pull hard. If you ware looking to put standard grips on go with a ZRT aluminum throttle as it will make your throttle so buttery you will never want to go back to a plastic tube again. Plus the ZRT is the toughest aluminum throttle tube we have ever come across. 

Air Filter: Buy yourself a KTM 250SX two-stroke air filter cage because they come without a backfire screen and then go get a Twin Air filter. Just doing this little modification gave me some added RPM response which helps the KTM feel even lighter in tight sections of any given track. 

Wheels/Tires/Axle Blocks: You will have to check your sprocket bolts and spokes religiously, but if you use a little blue Loctite on your sprocket bolts you should be good. You can also increase the rear wheel traction by going with some Works Connection Elite axle blocks or Ride Engineering axle blocks that will eliminate the fixed left side axle block from your axle. This allows both axle blocks to float under heavy load (acceleration) and will not give you a binding rear end (harsh) feel. It sounds minimal, but makes a difference on acceleration chop. You can also run your wheel a little farther back if you're changing your gearing to get some added straight line stability that the KTM can use at times. If there is a weak point to the KTM, it is the wheels. We have blown out two rear wheels in the past six months so maybe upgrading to a better wheel set could be in your future if you’re slightly hard on your wheels because you over jump or under jump a lot.

Rear Brake Pedal Spring: The stock one sucks! We break the brake pedal spring every 4-6 hours! You either are going to have to load up on brake pedal springs or go with a CRF450R brake pedal spring with the rubber over it (condom style). This helps with the vibration that the spring experiences, so it doesn't break. Orrrr, simply order a FAAST Co. rear brake return spring and you’re golden.

Failures: 

Two Rear Wheels broke (spokes ripped out)

One Top Valve Cover Gasket/Grommet leaked

Three Rear Brake Pedal Springs

One Rear Brake Pedal Brake Tip Broke Off (Rock in a rut impact)

Linkage nut fell off

2022 Yamaha YZ250F GYTR High Performance Engine Kit

There aren’t very many OEM manufacturer accessory divisions out there that offer actual engine mods for their machines. Oh wait, there isn’t one! The only manufacturer that offers anything engine related is Yamaha. KTM used to have KTM Factory Services but that has been shut down yet GYTR is still going strong with a long heritage in the off-road world. I recently had the chance to test GYTR’s newest high performance YZ250F engine kit (which pulled me around to win the Keefer Vs. Keefer Part Two race) and thought why not dive into what is involved in the kit as well as how it differs from the stock 2022 YZ250F on the track. The 2021-2022 YZ250F GYTR kit comes with fully assembled cylinder head, high compression piston, air filter airflow kit, OEM gasket kit and a pre-programmed Vortex ECU for 3,199.00. GYTR also offers cams for this kit for an additional $699.99.

Durability Criteria: 

Being that I used to work for the GYTR YPAD division (Yamaha Parts Accessory Division) in the early 2000s I have had some experience with their criteria for the durability of these types of engine parts. When the engineers decide on a power that they are satisfied with on the dyno, the Yamaha R&D team will build up a machine and proceed to take it out to a few tracks to see if it is in fact better than the stock. Not only will it have to be better, but also make sense for the cost right? After the decision is made that the engine kit is deemed worthy for resale, the durability begins. Japan usually requires all accessory parts endure 1000km of life before it can be passed for quality control. I have been a part of other manufacturers durability testing procedures and have found out that none (so far) have been as detailed as Yamaha’s. So the good news is that when you purchase a GYTR engine performance kit, you’re getting something reliable and tested. 

On The Track:

I will say that when I first hopped on the GYTR YZ250F, I wasn’t blown away by the power. That is until I rode a stock YZ250F back to back. Once I rode the stock YZ250F is when I appreciated what the team over at GYTR did with this kit. I will not say the high performance engine kit has more low end RPM response as I think the stock YZ250F still has more initial response down low, but coming out of corners is when you’ll be able to appreciate the GYTR power. You can shift later in each gear and even allows this old guy to ride third gear in more corners than the stock YZ250F. This is huge especially for a rider that is coming off of a 450 which might have too much power, yet still wants to ride his 250F like a 450F. The stock YZ250F is one of the few 250F’s in class to allow some third gear cornering, but with the GYTR kit it can increase that window even more. Mid range pulling power is more meaty gives you the feeling of more torque in soft conditions. The GYTR engine feels freer revving than the stock engine and also has less engine braking which helps the chassis on rough tracks. Top end pull is not a huge difference over stock but you can feel the GYTR kit pull harder on top with a little more over-rev per gear than the stock engine. 

Things I Would Like To Improve: 

Even though I tested the GYTR High Performance Engine Kit with stock cams I think this engine could benefit from a longer top end/over-rev feel, which the GYTR cams can provide (tested them on last year’s engine). This engine likes to be short shifted, which is great for lugging or lazy riders, but for faster B class kids that love to rev each gear out extremely far, I still think the KTM and Honda have better top end over-rev capabilities. The GYTR engine package will reward you if you short shift which took me a while to pick up on, but once I did, this YZ250F was a weapon! I also would like to try the GYTR/FMF muffler system with the insert in, instead of with it out (like I tested). The insert in can give some added back pressure, which can give me some added low end rpm response. The FMF system could use some more bottom end and that could be the reason why the GYTR YZ250F lacks some of that low end RPM response. 

Is It Worth The Money?:

That is the reason why we do these articles and videos right? Of course this question is only good for people that are actually interested in doing some engine work. Do you NEED this kit if you just want to race local and have fun? Absolutely not! However, if you want to get a little more serious against your 450cc’d vet buddies or maybe want to get a little more competitive in the amateur racing world, to me this kit is worth the money. Going to some private engine builders to build your motor can cost anywhere between 2500-5000. Along with that, your bike will be down for at least a couple weeks, so getting a complete high performance engine kit that is tested in house at Yamaha is worth the money in my opinion. I do wish the GYTR engine kit gave some more top end/over-rev, but I am pretty sure you can get more of that with some cams and another map on the Vortex ECU. 

2022 Honda CRF450R baseline Settings

Even though the Honda hasn’t changed much for 2022, Showa as well as Honda worked on creating more hold up from the suspension. This lead us to create another baseline setting for you 2022 owners. The ECU has also been updated, but there is still some lean pop on de-cel so we are currently working/looking into one type of stock ECU reflash to see if we can get it better. However, compared to the 2021, the ECU is much cleaner upon throttle delivery and has more connection to the rear wheel. We also took it a step further this year and matched up some traction control settings to map settings for you to try at your local track. There are two combinations below that we think can help you lower your lap times and make big red easier to ride. As always if you have questions about your new Honda, we will always try to help, so email us at kris@keeferinctesting.com if you have some thoughts/questions.  

Optional Suspension Setting: 

The stock suspension for 2022 is a firmer feel and to us that is a step in the right direction. However it still might be too soft for you if you’re anywhere over 180 pounds. Honda has a 5.0 N/m fork spring that is adequate for most, but even with the having more low speed compression damping for 2022, once broken in it might be a tad soft for riders north of 180. Out back the 54 N/m shock spring is a little soft, but the 2022 valving is much better on high speed compression so going to a stiffer spring was not warranted for my 170 pound frame. If you’re over 190 pounds then I would recommend going to a 56 N/mm spring with the correlating clicker adjustments. This will help the Honda from riding too low in the stroke under acceleration when you’re pushing 200 pounds. However, with the 54 N/mm spring and the 2022 valving the CRF450R has more rear wheel traction and added comfort on small chop so trying the clicker adjustments set to the 54 N/mm spring is worth a shot first. Remember, if you’re near 200 pounds and not into spending more money on a re-valve at this time, simply get some heavier springs and try this setting: 

 Fork: (170-200 pounds)

 Spring Rate: 51 N/mm

 Height: Flush

 Comp: 10 out

 Rebound: 12 out

Shock: (170-180 pounds)

 Spring Rate: 54 N/mm 

 L/S Comp: 11 clicks out

 H/S Comp: 2 1/2 clicks out

 Rebound: 9-10 clicks out

 Sag: 105mm

Shock: (180-200 pounds)

 Spring Rate: 56 N/mm 

 L/S Comp: 13 clicks out

 H/S Comp: 2 3/4 clicks out

 Rebound: 11 clicks out

 Sag: 105mm

Torque Specs:

I still prefer going to these torque specs on the 2022 Honda CRF450R. I spent a few more days experimenting with torque settings on the 2022 and have came up with the spec chart below. What these updated torque specs do for you is slightly improve the bump compliancy and front/rear wheel traction of the 2022 CRF450R. This isn’t a cure all, but you will feel a little extra comfort in your red ride. If you don’t see a torque spec on a portion of the bike that is not below, don’t freak out, just go with the stock recommended torque spec. I experimented with a lot of different parts of the chassis with torque specs and the bolts/nuts below make the mosts difference on the red machine.  It may not seem like much, but it’s the little things on this bike that can make the Honda chassis FUN for the average guy. Out of all of the machines that I have experimented with on torque settings, this bike reacts the most to it, so pay attention to your nuts/bolts on your Honda! Follow the torque spec sheet below and make sure to blue Loc-Tite the bolts/nuts on each to ensure you have no issues down the road.

Rear Axle Nut (Qty. 1): 

Stock: 128 Nm

Updated Spec: 120 Nm

Fork Top Clamp Pinch Bolts (Qty. 4):

Stock: 22 Nm

Updated Spec: 19 Nm

Fork Bottom Clamp Pinch Bolts (Qty. 4):

Stock: 20 Nm

Updated Spec: 16-17 Nm

Swingarm Pivot Nut (Qty. 1):

Stock: 88 Nm

Updated Spec: 81 Nm

Front Engine Hanger Plate Bolts (Qty. 4):

Stock: 26 Nm

Updated Spec: 24 Nm

Front Engine Hanger Plate Nut (Qty. 1):

Stock: 54 Nm

Updated Spec: 51 Nm

Cylinder Head Hanger Bolt (Qty.2):

Stock 54 Nm

Updated Spec: 51 Nm

Cylinder head Hanger Plate Bolts (Qty 4):

Stock: 32 Nm

Updated Spec: 29 Nm

Shock Absorber Upper Mounting Bolt (Qty. 1): 

Stock: 44 Nm

Updated Spec: 42 Nm

Traction Control/Map Switch: 

This is something I did not play with much the last couple years on the Honda CRF450R. Sometimes I get caught up with the chassis of this motorcycle so much that I forget to play with the other options Honda has to offer the rider. Below are a couple combinations of map/TC settings for you to try on certain types of tracks. 

Track Type/Condition: Afternoon when track still has some traction available, but also has loose dirt on top with acceleration chop in ruts. 

Map 1/TC1

With the map switch set to 1 and TC on 1 this gave me more control of the machine under throttle when track was going away slightly. Most of the time these conditions happened around lunch time (if track was open at 9AM) when lines were formed and ruts were established. With the TC on 1 through choppy ruts it allowed for more rear wheel traction and a less harsh feeling from the rear of the machine. I honestly wouldn’t rule this setting out in the morning when lines weren’t established and you need to find some traction on freshly tilled/watered dirt. If you’re looking to keep the low end excitement but gain just a hair less of throttle response try the map 1/TC 1 combo.

Track Type/Condition: Late afternoon when track is beat up with blown out lines with all the good traction pushed off, or the dirt has dug down far enough to where it’s hard pack.

Map 1/TC3 

With the map switch still on map 1 and TC now on 3 this gives the rider a much more heavier low end chugging feel (almost like a long rod feeling) with less excitement on 2nd-3rd gear roll on. Some of you may ask why not just put it on map 2 with TC on 1-2, but to me that combo gas me less connection from my throttle hand to rear wheel. It almost made the bike feel much heavier than I like. With map 1/TC3 the Honda CRF450R gave me a good throttle to rear wheel feel without it feeling heavy in corners. I felt like I had more tire contact patch on lean, under loose/hard dirt and that gave me confidence to roll throttle on earlier exiting corners. 

2022 Yamaha YZ250F First Impression

The Yamaha YZ250F doesn’t have that many changes to it for 2022. Yamaha lightened up the hub, sprocket, chain and they installed a 2.15 rear rim (instead of the 1.85 2021 rear rim), as well as went to Dunlop MX33 tires with a 110 rear tire in stock trim. The fork’s low speed damping was increased to try and create less pitching off throttle and there you have it. The 2022 YZ250F. Did it make a difference on the track? Here are some points to ponder before your purchase.  

Engine: The 2022 YZ250F still has the best torque in class (no change there), but it did lose just a little bottom end roll on power back in 2021. Don’t fret though as this engine is still vet friendly and very easy to lug around compared to the other more exciting top end/over-rev competitors (KTM,KX, CRF). The low to mid range pulling power is unmatched and if you’re coming off of a 2020 YZ250F, you’ll feel a free-er feel to the engine on de-cel on the 2021-2022, which makes for less pitching coming into corners. Second gear roll on is still very usable as is third gear lugability, but I was looking for more top end pull from second and third gear so I used the map shown below (Keefer Top End 1 Map). The Yamaha still has a loud note to the muffler and is still a little raspy. The muffler’s volume is increased, which does give it a deeper tone. 

Chassis: With the updated suspension on the 2022 the chassis actually feels more compliant in braking bumps leading into ruts, which makes it easier for the rider to pick his line and get on the gas sooner through area two of the corner. There is less pitching when on/off throttle and that leaves a sensation of an even more planted feel than the 2021 machine did. After a few days at a different tracks with the 2022 (compared to the 2021), I could really feel how much added front end bite I had compared to the 2021. When you ride the 2021 back to back with the 2022 you can feel like the chassis is firmer, yet has more comfort/connection to the ground. I suspect this has everything to do with the fork being firmer (see below). Usually when I get a firmer sensation from a chassis, I get some harshness/vibration/deflection, yet with the 2022 YZ250F I DO NOT get any of that. The firmer feel of the 2022 actually helps the Yamaha feel better planted to the ground on straight line stability. Riding the hills of Glen Helen back to back with the old model proved to me that the new Yamaha is catered to faster riders who want to push themselves some. 

Suspension: The 2022 fork feels firmer (compared the 2021), holds up more in the stroke, but isn’t as active as previous years KYB settings. That less active feel translates into a front/rear end that allows the rider to hit braking bumps harder without upsetting the chassis. There is some added bite to acceleration bumps when the fork is light in the stroke, but adding a little more rebound to the fork will help this feel. I still had to go a little firmer on both ends for my style of riding, but it didn’t take long at all to feel comfortable. Track Toughness of the 2022 Yamaha YZ250F is as good if not slightly better than the 2021. *See Spec Chart Below* 

Ergonomics: The ergonomics are still a little small for my liking. I would love for Yamaha to move their pegs down and back 5-10mm and I think it would really open the cockpit up more. I have tried aftermarket Raptor Titanium pegs on the Yamaha that move them down and back and it really helped me get on the balls of my feet more and feel relaxed when seated. I love the handlebar shape (Pro Taper SX Race equivalent) and the seat although nice at first, will break down around 20 hours. 

Baseline Suspension Settings: Below are the settings I think is a great starting point for riders between 160-190 pounds. This setting will get you a blend of the most performance as well as comfort. 

Fork:

Comp: 8-10 clicks out

Rebound: 10 clicks out

Height: 5mm or 3mm on faster sandier tracks

Shock: 

Sag: 104mm

L/S Comp: 9 clicks out

H/S Comp: 7/8 out

Rebound:  10 clicks out 

Maps: Below are the two maps that are loaded into my test bike that will give you a blend of what I feel this bike needs. 

2022 KTM 450 SX-F What Would You Do?

People always ask, “what would you do to your own bike”? Most of the time that question gets answered at the track or through email, but I thought I would put it out there for the world to see through my site. The KTM 450 SX-F is one of my favorite bikes to ride and race. In stock form the 2022 KTM 450 SX-F has an easier to ride smooth roll-on power than other 450s in its class and that lets the rider get on the throttle sooner through corners. The stock suspension is decent but needs some better lean angle front end traction, more consistency in the front end and more hold up (high speed compression) on the shock. Not all of my builds need to be extravagant, so I thought why not build a machine strictly on what the bike “needs” to make it even more fun to ride/race. Below is a parts list that I have created on parts that I strictly wanted personally on my 2022 KTM 450 SX-F. Since the 22 KTM 450 SX-F is virtually unchanged from the 2021 version, there is no need to do a FIRST RIDE! 

Parts List: 

 FMF 4.1 

Titanium 4.1 Muffler System 

Fmfracing.com

WP/REP Pro Components

CV Fork Re-Valve (REP Spec)

Trax Shock (REP Spec) 

1mm Longer Shock Shaft

REP Knuckle/Rods

Repsuspension.com 

KTM

Factory Split Clamps

Ktm.com

Vortex ECU

Mapped By XPR Motorsports

XPRMotorsports.com

VP Racing

MR PRO 6 HT

Vpracing.com 

Pro Taper

EVO SX Race Bend

Protaper.com

 Dunlop

MX3S Front Tire (80/100-21) 13.5 PSI

MX33 Rear Tire (120/80-19 12.5 PSI

Dunlopmotorcyclestires.com

ZRT

Zero Resistance Aluminum Throttle 

Zrtthrottle.com

Twisted Development 

Exhaust Flange

Td-racing.com 

Although this parts list isn’t long, it is distinguished. The REP Pro Component suspension done up by Mark at REP has given me a lot more confidence in pushing this KTM 450 SX-F in longer motos under rougher conditions. REP has some unique parts that go inside the WP Pro Components which they make personally. The Pro Component (Cone Valve) fork now gives me more lean angle grip through corners and added comfort when the track gets rougher. I couldn’t say that with the stock AER fork, because it wasn’t consistent like this spring pro component REP fork. I always had a problem with my KTM’s riding rear end low, but with REP’s longer shock shaft accompanied by their linkage system, my new Garage Build has a balance that I have never had before. To go with my newfound balanced suspension package, I turned to Chad at XPR Motorsports to tune a programmable Vortex ECU for more excitement down low yet keep that stock linear character that I like so much. With the ECU installed along with Twisted Development’s exhaust flange the KTM now has a controlled snap out of corners that gives me the ability to hop over bumps better as well as gives the KTM a lighter feel. Did I mention it revved out like a 250? Yeah, that too! An FMF 4.1 exhaust rounds out the engine package and lightens up the KTM by over a pound, so there’s your bling. Sneaky mods that are a must have to me are a ZRT throttle that gives you a smoother overall feel and is much stronger than the plastic lock on system that KTM comes stock with. The ZRT is controlled via a bearing and that bearing gives you an unbelievable easier to use throttle even when your throttle cables get worn (which they will do around the 20-hour mark). These changes that I made make a huge difference and gets me excited to ride even when I am tired from a long week of testing. I don’t need all the bling with my bikes to get me excited, I just need a bike that performs out on the track and allows me to ride faster. I am more of a function over fashion type of rider with my machines and this KTM is now my type of vet racing 450. 

On My Own Dime: 2022 Honda CRF450R

Rider: Chris “Checkerz” Riesenberg

Age: 35

Skill Level: Vet Int.

Weight: 300+

Bike: 2022 Honda CRF450R

Previous Bike: 2019 Honda CRF450R

 After over 8 years of absolutely zero riding, and basically 12 years since I could even be classified as a weekend warrior; Kris Keefer re-ignited the fire within all of us crazy moto guys.  An invite to the 2019 Keefer Tested 450 Shootout meant it was time to toss my leg over a bike again.  Two years later, I’m back at the track nearly every weekend tossing out air wheelies (mostly on purpose) and butt whips with my buddies and I even line up behind the gate every now and again.  Once upon a time I would show up and be the fast guy at the track, but these days I’ve been relegated to a mid-pack Vet Intermediate.  Enough about me, let’s dig into the real reason you clicked this… the 2022 Honda CRF450R.

Before we begin, I really have two benchmarks to compare the 2022 CRF450R to… my previous bike, the 2019 Honda CRF450R and my 2019 Keefer Shootout “winning” pick, the Yamaha YZ450F. My buddy owns one of these and we swap bikes often.  These are rapid reactions as I have only a couple of hours on the bike I purchased down at Storm Lake Honda right when they became available.

 BIGGEST IMPROVEMENT

I really enjoyed my 2019 Honda CRF450R, especially on stadium style and indoor tracks.  The more aggressive I was, the better the bike felt; but it was just simply rigid.  A really good suspension setting certainly helped, and I was shocked that the Works Chassis Lab intermediate mounts/hangers made a very noticeable difference… but it still was harsh.  

The 2022 Honda CRF450 has none of that rigidness and I can go noticeably longer before my arms are shot. It still delivers a very connected feeling to the terrain under you which is important to me as a rider who heavily relies on front end feel and steering.

THE SURPRISE

From reading the reviews, shootouts, and tests; I had a pretty good idea that the chassis rigidity was going to be much improved.  I basically was expecting a more comfortable version of my 2019 model.  What I found is what puts this bike in the running to potentially become the favorite bike I’ve ever owned.

Back in the 2019 Shootout, the Honda ranked 4thfor me.  I bought one because I have a great dealer relationship, and I’ve never ridden anything except Hondas since I was on CR80s back in the 90’s.  Number one for me was the Yamaha YZ450 because it had an amazingly smooth power delivery that made it easy to go fast and the suspension and chassis was connected yet comfortable.  Honda made huge strides with the chassis on the 2022, but the surprise was definitely the smooth, linear power delivery.

All last year I struggled with rutted turns on my 2019.  I would either turn out too soon or the front wheel would want to pop over the rut.  I could help this problem by running in the slower “vet” map, but then my big ass would have to work a lot harder to get the “oomf” out of corners to clear some of the bigger jumps.  I typically elected to run the standard map 1 and mostly thought my cornering issues were rider skill issues.

Alas, I hopped on the 2022 Honda CRF450R and immediately I was able to rail ruts like it was 2004 again and I was at the top of my game.  In fact, last night I drug a bar in a rut for maybe the first time in my life. It was amazing.  The 2022 Honda CRF450R goes where you want it to go, is nimble, and the power is predictable, smooth, and there is plenty of it.  I’m excited to ride it back to back with my buddy’s YZ450 to see which power delivery I prefer.  I’ll report back in a future update about that.

(NOTE:  This feedback is all standard map 1 without TC turned on.  I have enjoyed it so much I haven’t even had a chance to play around with the other settings… sorry Keefer, I’ll work on being a better tester!)

TO BE IMPROVED

Being a Honda rider my whole life, I haven’t spent a ton of time on a hydraulic clutch.   I’ve previously been pretty hard on clutches by feathering it instead of using throttle control.  The trend continued on my 2019 CRF450R because of trying to control the massive power hit in corners.  The times I’ve been on bikes with a hydraulic clutch, I was indifferent to having one or not. So far on the new Honda, I like the hydraulic clutch and I am tending to abuse it less.  Most of that I believe is due to the smooth power and the effectiveness of the clutch when you tap it.

So why is it under “to be improved?”  It isn’t the clutch action, but the lever.  From the showroom the lever came adjusted extremely far from the bar making it a reach even with my big hands.  It does have a good bit of adjustment to move the lever and I was able to move it in.  However, once adjusted in, the lever pulls to my fingers right at the engagement point. I had to compromise running it a bit further out to ensure I’m getting full engagement when pulling in the clutch. I’ve also always really loved the feel and shape of the Works Connection levers; however, they don’t make a clutch lever for the 2022 Honda CRF450R.

FINAL QUICK THOUGHTS

·       In my opinion, Honda continues to have the most comfortable rider triangle on the market.

·       The stock suspension is impressive.  I’m far from the ideal weight and normally avoid riding stock suspension at all costs.  Even hitting some fairly large jumps I’m not fully bottoming, and it has good comfort.  It definitely can use some work on the shock in the bumps for me, but that’s expected when you are over 100lbs heavier than the “ideal” weight for the setup.

·       All red is sexy.  It’s tough to beat the look of a Honda.  I take pride in creating unique looks for my bikes, but I found it super challenging to find a better look than stock.  We’ll see if I’m able to pull it off.

WHAT’S NEXT?

First off, I need to get suspension dialed in for me.  I’m way too heavy for stock suspension and it honestly makes me nervous riding with it. I’ll be swinging up to my local Race Tech Service Center, PDR Performance to get RT Springs and Gold Valves with personalized valving put in.

Beyond that, I don’t see a need for performance parts currently; so, I’ll be focused on “look good, ride good” elements.  I have plastic and graphics on order for a unique look and my Guts Racing seat cover just came in the mail.  No bike of mine is complete without bling from Works Connection, and we’ll add a handful of their protection goodies on there too.

Down the road, when it snows up here in Minnesota, I typically do a full overhaul on my bike. The goal is to put enough hours on my 2022 before then to justify doing just that over winter.  With the extra downtime I’ll likely send my forks out to SGB Racing to get some sweet looking coatings done, design a new plastic/graphics scheme, and will look into updating any weaknesses I find with the bike.

2022 Honda CRF250R First Impression

The media hasn’t been to a fly away introduction since pre pandemic times, so it was nice that Honda invited all of the media to Mt. View motocross park in Sandy, Oregon to try out their new 2022 CRF250R. I mentioned in Racerhead last week that there is always one bike that is the most anticipated of each model year release and this year it was the new CRF250R. Honda made significant changes to the CRF250R’s engine, chassis, a weight loss program, as well as suspension settings, but changing a bunch of things doesn’t always mean that it’s better right? Instead of flying out there for a couple days, I decided to make a road trip out of it and bring my son as well as a couple friends for a few days to enjoy the cooler temps of the PNW. Getting to ride in the Pacific Northwest in the summer is much better than riding in the Southern California inferno. so thank you Honda for getting us out of Hell’s Kitchen! Here are ten things you need to know after riding the CRF250R up in the pines of Oregon. 

Engine: The 2022 Honda has more bottom to mid range torque, which makes it a much more friendlier vet 250F machine. I am a huge proponent of using third gear in corners and that is one of the reasons why I love the Yamaha YZ250F so much. The Honda is not quite on par with the Yamaha down low, but it is much closer than before. The CRF250R has an exciting low to mid rpm response and pulls far through the top end. It almost has as much top end/over-rev of a KTM 250 SX-F, yet pulls harder down low than the orange bike. If the Yamaha and KTM had a baby, the Honda CRF250R would be born. Its power is a blend of both machines and much more fun to ride than previous red models. The Honda also has more of a free revving feel to it (similar to a KTM) and is easier to get back into the meat of the power if you make a mistake.

Chassis: We all know Honda has one of the best cornering chassis’ out there, but it wouldn’t hurt to get some added compliance and straight line stability from the Honda right? The 2022 gives you a little more of a forgiving feel on throttle while leaning. Think of a time where you need to go wide into a corner and then start angling back to get to the inside. This is where this updated 2022 chassis is better than previous years. I get some added contact feeling on lean angle that I didn’t have with the older chassis, which I find important if you want to keep momentum on a smaller cc’d bike.

Suspension: With the added power and lighter weight the suspension has been revised and to me has slightly more comfort, but that could be some of the newfound chassis comfort talking as well. Even though the Mt. View track wasn’t the best to test suspension on, but I did manage to get a feel of what we think could be a setting to leans toward. The front end wasn’t as soft as I expected it to be for my weight (170), but I did go two clicks stiffer on the fork and this helped keep the front end from diving too much on de-cel. This only worked if I dropped the sag setting to 107mm and turned in the high speed compression in a 1/4 turn. After these adjustments were made the balance of the motorcycle was much improved and the CRF250R settled into corners even better. 

Cooling: The thicker water pump propeller as well as the new radiator louvers cool down the unit much better than the 2021 bike! Not once did I see coolant puking out of any test bikes during the time I was at the introduction. I couldn’t have said that in previous years

Clutch: The nine plate clutch system holds up way better to abuse than the old eight plate system. Don’t tell Honda this but I was more abusive towards the cutch when I went out then I needed to be just so I could see what damage (or heat) I could do to the clutch. It held up fine and the bike was in a constant state of rotating between riders for six hours with minimal fade. I couldn’t say that last year. 

Weight Feeling: With the claimed eight pounds that the 2022 lost, you can definitely feel some of that when you start your lean into corners as well as when you want to stand up around the whole corner. I have always felt like I could stand up more on the Honda than other machines (besides the KTM), but the 2022 just gives me that feeling even more. Maybe this will not grab your attention that much, but it’s nice to have that lightweight feel while trying to maneuver you and your bike in ruts while standing.

Tires: Having Pirelli on an OEM is huge news. Dunlop has dominated OEM’s for years, but with weight in mind, Honda decided to try the Pirelli MX32 Mid-Soft tires n the 250R and they work well. I do wish that the 1.85 rear wheel came equipped with a 2.15 and a 110 rear tire, but I am fine with the performance of the Pirelli. The carcass feel of Pirelli’s rubber absorbs a lot of the track before it gets to your suspension and I like that feeling out here on the west coast. I do know that the Pirelli carcass will not last as long as the Dunlop, but these tires are built on performance, not durability.

Top 5 Mods To The 2021 Suzuki RM-Z450

Just because the 2021 Suzuki RM-Z450 hasn’t changed doesn’t mean it still isn’t a viable option for a lot of riders out there. No, this isn’t the best bike off the showroom floor, but we put together what we feel is the TOP 5 MODS that will make the RM-Z450 a better motorcycle without completely draining your bank account.

Full Or Slip On Muffler System: The 2021 Suzuki RM-Z450 lacks a little bottom end pulling power, so in order to get a little more of that, the easiest thing to do is throw on a slip on or full muffler system. The PC slip on system didn't “wow” us for initial RPM response at first, but we installed the insert into the muffler and that helped back pressure enough to create some more throttle response. I liked the insert in for increased bottom to mid range throttle response without losing much top end pull. Installing this PC system helps with coming out of corners and also helps the Suzuki’s recovery time when in the wrong gear. With the stock system, the recovery time out of corners (if you were a gear too high) was embarrassing for a 450cc machine. It would be hard to get back into the meat of the power, forcing you to downshift and then immediately upshift, in order to get moving again quickly. With the PC slip on system the rider can fan the clutch lever a couple times (in the higher gear) and it helps get the Suzuki on down the track in a quicker manner. The PC system is a step in the right direction for bottom and mid range pull. It doesn’t help or negatively affect the top end at all. Yes, we would still like a little more to make us happy, but this is a mod that actually makes a difference. You can get a little more top end with the full system as the headpipe does help the top/over-rev of the yellow zook.

Ride Engineering Link: Simply installing the Ride Engineering link helped balance the RM-Z out on de-cel. If you’re running the stock suspension (valving/springs) this simple mod will help the RM-Z from wanting to transfer its weight towards the front end. The RM-Z450’s BFRC shock is known for unloading on de-cel (or riding high off throttle) and that can cause oversteer (knifing) on entrances of corners. Once you install the longer Ride Engineering link arms on the Suzuki it will settle down on de-cel and not pitch towards the front end as much. Running the sag at 107mm (fork height 4-5mm) with the link arm will alleviate some of your balance issues on the #RMaRMy. www.ride-engineering.com 

Vertex Hi Compression Piston Kit: Installing a 13.5:1 Vertex piston kit helped get some added excitement out of Suzuki’s bottom to mid range. Stock compression is 12.5:1 on the RM-Z450, but bumping the compression up to 13.5:1 allows for us to still run pump fuel safely. Where you will notice the added pull is on deeply tilled tracks or soft tracks that force the rider to get on the throttle harder. The Suzuki now feels a little “spunkier”, “livelier”, and “more fun” to ride. It also helps the chassis feel lighter when the track is tighter or when it gets rougher. It allows the rider to “pop” over bumps and makes the Suzuki feel a little more playful. For even better low end run this piston with VP T4 fuel or Renegade MX4. www.vertexpistons.com 

Hinson Clutch Kit (Basket, Pressure Plate, Inner, Fibers, Steels, Springs): The stock clutch fades quickly during motos and the clutch lever actuation (engagement) is very narrow. Once the Hinson clutch kit was installed the feel of the clutch was more positive and less vague. The Hinson also took the improved bottom end we got from the muffler/piston and transferred that power better to the rear wheel. The stock mushy lever feeling was gone and a slightly stiffer firm feel replaced it. However, it wasn’t a “Honda hard pull” feel, just a slightly firmer/more positive than the stock Suzuki pull. We have been riding with the Hinson clutch for over a few months now and that feeling hasn't changed one bit. We also have to change our clutch plates less as the Hinson set up doesn't get burned up as quickly. www.hinsonracing.com 

Optional Tuner Map: 

If you’re looking for a little more pulling power out of corners and more mid range meat from your 2021 RM-Z450, try the map out above on your MX Tuner App. This map works great with the PC system and some VP Racing T4 fuel..

2021 Kawasaki KX450 Race Tech Suspension Review

The 2021 Kawasaki KX450 is one of the most stable machines in its class and the Showa suspension has a lot to do with that, but it’s slightly under sprung for most heavier or aggressive riders. Even when you go up in spring rate it only acts like a band aid in the long run. I have lived with and have been decently happy with just a spring rate change, but I needed to see if a valving change along with a spring rate change would help the KX450’s character even more on the track. I dropped off my Showa bump sticks to the guys at Race Tech and this is what I came away with after riding with the re-valved Showa set up on the green machine. 

Fork:

With the stock fork, I had too much diving on de-cel and when I went to a stiffer spring it helped with this problem, but I lost some of that nice comfort that the stock spring gave me. Race Tech installed their Gold Valve compression/rebound system with a 5.4 kg spring rate and it changed the way the bike felt in every off throttle situation. I now had better hold up on de-cel with increased bump absorption that didn’t feel harsh in my hands, like the stock valving with the optional 51 N/m spring rate. The KX450 now had a better lean in feel on area 1 (entrance) of corners that gave me more front end traction. I ran the fork height at 3mm at most tracks which gave me the balance of predictable straight line stability and easier cornering than the stock setting (with heavier fork spring). On rougher tracks like Glen Helen, I did have to back out the compression a couple clicks in order to get a little softer mid stroke feel with the Race Tech setting. Unlike the stock valving, the Race Tech Showa valved fork has a larger window of adjustment that could make me happier with minute clicker adjustments. I have always had a problem with the KX450 feeling long, which would hurt my cornering, but with the valving/spring rate change that Race Tech made, actually helped make the KX chassis feel better through corners. I need a balance of stability and ease of cornering with any machine I ride and although I prefer a slower turning chassis, the KX has always felt too lethargic/long in corners. This fork change has helped me corner the green machine better.  

Shock: 

I honestly never really had that much of an issue with the rear of the Kawasaki as the Showa shock had a blend of comfort and performance that gives the KX great rear wheel traction. Sometimes I get nervous about sending a a good standard shock setting off to a aftermarket suspension company, so to say I wasn’t a little skeptical that Race Tech could improve upon the stock shock would be a lie. I will say that going to their suggested 5.8 kg spring rate had me a little worried, but after a few laps I could see what Race Tech was after. Going to a slightly stiffer spring rate in the rear along with their Gold Valve system kept the KX450’s rear wheel traction, but now offered a flatter on/off throttle ride. I ran the sag at 103mm and the rear end felt low enough in braking bumps where it didn’t give me that “rear end kick”, that the stock shock sometimes had on bigger braking bumps. I did end up going a little stiffer on high speed and that helped keep the rear end up a little on steep jump faces. With the Race Tech re-valved shock I used the stock linkage ratio (unlike with the stock suspension where I ran a PC link) with better results under acceleration. The RT re-valve gave me more control on the initial part of the shock’s stroke, yet didn’t get too low under acceleration out of choppy ruts. It still might be a tad soft on g outs or flat landings so I may get Race Tech to create a second shock setting for me with a little more low speed compression.

Overall:

Race Tech knows how I like my bikes set up. This is the most important aspect when thinking about having an aftermarket company re-valve your suspension. Give them enough information on how you ride the bike as well as how aggressive you are and if you are a rear/front end steering rider. The more info about yourself you can give them the better the chance your first setting will be close enough to wear you can fine tune it once you get it back with just clickers. Race Tech did a great job on improving upon the stock suspension and proved to me that I was being nervous for no reason. Suspension settings are a personal preference as well as a feeling that can be hard to translate to others if you’re not used to correlating what you feel on the track to the suspension tuner. Listen to the Rocky Mountain ATV/MC Keefer Tested Podcast episode 229. Listening to that particular episode can give you enough info to arm yourself with enough knowledge to give Race Tech or any other suspension company the correct info about yourself and what you want when out on the track.

2021 KX450 Race Tech Suspension Settings:

Fork: 

 Spring Rate: 5.4 kg

 Compression: 14 clicks out

 Rebound: 10 clicks out

 Fork Height: 3mm

 Shock:

 Spring Rate: 5.8 kg

 Low Speed Compression: 11 clicks out

 High Speed Compression: 1 1/4 turns out

 Rebound: 9 out

If you have any questions about the KX450 or suspension my door is open to all my readers/listeners. We built this media testing outlet for you the consumer! Email me at kris@keeferinctesting.com if you need me.

2021 KTM 250 SX-F Baseline Suspension, Rider Triangle, And Gearing Settings

My son and I have been riding the 2021 KTM 250 SX-F heavily the past few months and have come up with some settings for each of us that may help you out with your orange 250 four stroke machine. If you’re looking for a good place to start, these settings below worked well for a wide variety of tracks that we tested at. Getting a setting that ranges from 130-175 pounds is tough to do but after a few months of playing around we thing we found a setting that can make you comfortable. Below are some suspension, gearing and rider triangle settings that you can apply to your orange brigade at home. 

Suspension: (160-190 Pounds)

Fork: 

C: 15

R: 11

Height: 4mm

Air: 10.7 Bar

Shock: (Spec #AK2S)

LSC: 13

HSC: 1.5

R:11

Sag: 105mm

Suspension: (130-155 Pounds)

Fork: 

C: 11

R: 10

Height: 4mm

Air: 10.4 Bar

Shock: (Spec #AK2S)

LSC: 15

HSC: 1..75

R: 11

Sag: 105mm

Gearing: 

In stock form the 2021 KTM 250 SX-F comes with a 14/51 but for heavier riders above 170 pounds a 14/52 or even a 14/53 works better in most conditions. Why? It allows the rider to get into third gear more and let the KTM 250 SX-F pull their heavy asses around the track better. For lighter riders under 150 pounds the stock 13/51 gearing is just fine as the lighter riders can use 3rd gear a little early without the detrimental affect of not having enough recovery when shifting too early. 

Rider Triangle: 

The stock Neken handlebar is rigid/harsh to the hands so go with a Pro Taper bar. If you’re a Renthal guy please contact me for specs at kris@keeferinctesting.com. See specs below: 

Height: 5’5-5’9 = Husqvarna Stock Pro Taper Bend

Height: 5’9-6’2 = SX Race Pro Taper Bend or YZ High Pro Taper Bend

Throttle Feel:

If you find yourself having a sticky or hard twist to your throttle, you can replace your throttle cables as the stock cables will only last around 20 hours before they start to feel like crap. No matter what you do, the cables will never feel the same even if you lube them. You might get a free feel after lubing the cables for a bit, but soon thereafter your throttle will feel harder to twist once again. If you’re looking to spend a little money for an aluminum throttle tube and want to  help the feel of your throttle, I recommend the ZRT throttle. This throttle tube makes the pull have almost zero drag and is a tough SOB. There is some set up/prep time to this throttle (cutting the right side of the handlebars a 1/2 inch), but it can help the pull over the long haul.

TOP 5 MAINTENANCE ITEMS:

1. Fuel Filters: If you’re a KTM owner, do yourself a favor and put a couple of these in your toolbox just in case. Fuel filters can get clogged on all KTM’s and this can cause damage to your fuel pump or possibly not allow your bike to start properly.

2. Throttle Cables: If there is one thing that DOES NOT last on KTM’s it is the throttle cables. Every 15-20 hours I will have to replace the throttle cables to ensure that my throttle doesn’t feel hard or sticky when twisting. Originally I thought my throttle tube was dirty or maybe the right side of the handlebar had dirt on it, but I found out through a couple KTM mechanics, that the throttle cables simply wear out. You can’t lube them or clean them out as it will only make the throttle feel better for a short amount of time. Get some 

3. Check All Spokes/Sprocket Bolts: KTM spokes always come loose near the rim lock so make sure you pay attention to all the spokes after every ride. If you don’t check them constantly you will lose or break a couple. 

4. Check Engine Mounts/Swingarm Pivot Bolt: Always check the torx bolts that hold the top engine hangers on the bike. After break in, these will loosen up a bunch, so you might need some blue Loctite on the threads. After you do this, please continue to check these as they still back out from time to time. The torque spec on these bolts are important to the ride attitude of these KTM’s. Also the KTM’s come with frame guards and that means you will not know (until it’s too late) when your swingarm pivot bolt  backs out. Take off your frame guard and check pivot bolt regularly. While you’re at it, get the Acerbis frame guards as they last longer and have better grip than the stock ones. 

5: FI Indicator Light: The little FI indicator light bulb will fall out of the rubber casing as soon as you get past 10 hours. The best thing to do is put a little silicone inside the rubber casing, so the light bulb as well as the wire doesn’t flop around.

2021 450 MX Baseline Stock Suspension Setting Bible

Here is your one stop shop for some baseline suspension settings for all (except the Suzuki) the 450 motocross machines. These settings are a great start for anyone between 160-200 pounds. If heavier springs are needed the below specs will specify this. If you’re asking yourself ,why not gives some specs for riders over 200 pounds, don’t fret, email me at kris@keeferinctesting.com and I can try to walk you through some options. -KK

2021 KX450 Suspension Settings:

The stock KX450 fork is too soft on de-cel and needs more hold up. These settings will help achieve this and leave you with enough comfort where your hands will not be screaming for mercy. 

Fork: 

 Spring Rate 5.1 N/m Spring (5.0 N/m is stock) *If B level rider and over 200 pounds 5.2 N/m springs are also a great option*

 Oil Level: Standard

 Compression:11-12 clicks out (12 clicks out with 5.2 spring)

 Rebound Range: 10-11 clicks out

 Fork Height: 2-3 mm

 Shock:

Sag: 104-105mm

 Spring Rate: 54 N/m (190 pounds or over, try 56 N/m)

 Low Speed Compression: 16 clicks out

 High Speed Compression: 1 1/8 turns out

 Rebound: 10-11 out

2021 Yamaha YZ450F Suspension Settings: 

Suspension: If you’re sticking with stock valving the 2021 Yamaha YZ450F’s suspension settings are still slightly soft (once suspension is broke in) at times on bigger bumps at speed. Going slower on the action as well as stiffening the compression really helps the whole bike remain planted around the track. The comfort that the KYB SSS fork/suspension has is unmatched and the track toughness it provides makes your life so much less stressful on set up. This setting below will work for most riders ranging from 160-195 pounds with no gear. 

Fork: 

Height: 4mm

Compression: 6-7 clicks out

Rebound: 7-8 clicks out

Shock: 

Sag: 104mm

Low Speed Compression: 8 clicks out

High Speed Compression: 3/4 turns out

Rebound: 7-8 clicks out 

2021 Honda CRF450R Suspension Settings:

The stock suspension might be too soft for you if you’re anywhere over 180 pounds. Honda has a 5.0 N/m fork spring that is adequate for most, but the valving seems too soft. Out back the 54 N/m shock spring is also way too soft, so if you’re looking for a quick band aid to make your Honda CRF450R better, without going to a re-valve, going a spring rate up on each end has helped me feel more secure on high speed tracks, as well as soft bumpy tracks. Bringing both ends up a little in the stroke (with the heavier spring rates) has given me more front/rear wheel traction as well a Honda that corners better without over-steering. Unlike the 2020 Honda CRF450R, going up a spring rate on the 2021 version has given the new red bike more track toughness, but you’re still going to have to deal with some frame rigidity. If you’re not into spending more money on a re-valve at this time, simply get some heavier springs and try this setting: 

 Fork: 

 Spring Rate: 5.1 N/m

 Height: 2mm

 Comp: 11-12 out

 Rebound: 11 out

Shock:

 Spring Rate: 56 N/m 

 L/S Comp: 12 clicks out

 H/S Comp: 2 3/4 clicks out

 Rebound: 10 clicks out

 Sag: 106mm

2021 Husqvarna FC450 Suspension Settings:

The recommended settings were 10.7 bar or 155psi of air in the fork, compression at 12 out and rebound at 18 out. This setting was, as suspected, too soft for my liking and after testing at a few tracks, I found a base line setting of:

Fork:

Air Pressure: 11.1 bar or 162 psi of air

Compression at 13 clicks

Rebound 15 out. 

*With Factory Hard Parts Triple Clamps or Ride Engineering Split Clamps*

Height: 5mm

Air Pressure: 11.1 Bar

Compression: 12 clicks out

Rebound: 13 clicks out

Shock:

Sag: 100mm

L/S Comp: 8 out

H/S Comp: 1.5 out

Rebound: 12 out

With this setting I had no issues bottoming on hard landings as well as  bump absorption/hold up/traction were very good even at GH late in the day. 

The shock was a bit more difficult to find a great setting for, but that is due to the shock spring being slightly soft (undersprun for my level of riding). The action of the shock wasn't bad, my issue was with a spring that is just simply too soft. The shock was riding too low in the stroke which caused a low squat in the apex of turns and a soft blow thru feeling on transitions, whoops, and hard landings. As I said this is easily fixed with a stiffer spring but when striving for a stock base line setting you do the best with what you have. I ended up going with 100mm of sag, high speed compression at 1/2 turn out, low speed compression at 8 out and rebound at 12 out. Now some of you may ask why I didn't go further in on compression and I did try that, but the action on acceleration chop/braking bumps suffered when things are closed off that much. The soft feeling on landings, whoops and turns was more manageable than the instability in choppy acceleration bumps or entering braking bumps at speed. Not the ideal trade off, but again if you have to make do until you get the correct spring rates or a revalve, these settings should work for you. At the end of the day this base line set up allowed me to get more comfortable at speed and gave me a direction of the areas I want to improve.

2021 KTM 450 SX-F Suspension Settings:

Fork (Stock Triple Clamp): 

Height: 5mm

Air Pressure: 11.0 Bars

Compression: 13-14 clicks out

Rebound: 13 clicks out

*With KTM Hard Parts Triple Clamps or Ride Engineering Split Clamps*

Height: 5mm

Air Pressure: 11.1 Bars

Compression: 15-16 clicks out

Rebound: 13 clicks out

Shock:

Sag: 102mm

Low Speed Compression: 10 clicks out

High Speed Compression: 1.25 out 

Rebound:  11 clicks out 

2021 Gas Gas MC450 Suspension Settings: 

The 21 Gas Gas MC450 has a similar suspension feel to the KTM, but the chassis has slightly more compliancy so the setting that I came up with is only slightly slower moving than the KTM. This is a general happy spot for the other red machine: 

Fork (Stock Triple Clamp): 

Height: 5mm

Air Pressure: 11 Bar

Compression: 14 clicks out

Rebound: 11 clicks out

*With Factory Hard Parts Triple Clamps or Ride Engineering Split Clamps*

Height: 5mm

Air Pressure: 11 Bar

Compression: 11 clicks out

Rebound: 10 clicks out

Shock:

Sag: 103mm

Low Speed Compression: 10 clicks out

High Speed Compression: 1.5 out 

Rebound:  10 clicks out

Soul Riding On The 2021 Husqvarna FC250

By Kellen Brauer

 Keefer graciously has allowed me to test out the 2021 Husqvarna FC250 over the last couple months. I’m no expert rider, nor expert tester, but it has been fun trying to decipher more about the machine than just hopping on it and going. This is by far the newest bike I’ve ever really spent some time with as I own a 2002 Honda CR250 and haven’t personally owned a newer bike than my long-time companion that was the glorious 2006 Honda CR450F. Until this year even, I’d never spun any laps on a fuel injected machine. So, I’ve really tried to dig a much deeper hole in my brain to accelerate my learning of this much newer machinery.

Having filmed with Keefer on Racer X Films a lot this year, I’ve had the pleasure of riding the 2021 Kawasaki and KTM 250s along with this Husky. Right away, I felt much more connected with the Husqvarna. Both the Kawasaki and KTM had that snappy feeling you often experience on a 250F because you need to ride them harder than a 450 to get that true meat of the power down to the ground. The Husqvarna doesn’t have that same feeling to me. While it definitely works great when I ride it hard for the five corners that I can manage to go that speed, it feels easy to cruise a gear high and coast your corners as well.

I’ve put in just over seven hours on the bike and wanted to leave it about as stock as I can initially. I’m just at 6-feet and a hair over 150 lbs. so my style did take a little while to adjust to that lower ride height. I went down to 10.2 Bar on the pressure in the fork and two clicks softer on high speed on the shock (with a 102mm of sag) and it actually feels like I don’t need to do much more for the speed I go. What I initially struggled with was low speed chatter in the front end and I couldn’t find the middle ground where I didn’t blow through the whole stroke on high-speed landings. So, I went softer on the fork clickers first, but then went back to stock, then just tried to adjust the pressure and it feels like I’ve solved that issue so far. Big bumps and hard landings are no trouble and that tight/harsh feeling that I felt on small chatter is now gone.

Though the ride time has been short, I’ve put the bike through its paces. I raced it at Cahuilla, rode it at Pala, tried it out on an abandoned track called Amago and even went on long off-road rides in Ocotillo. The power delivery this bike offers handled every change in terrain I’ve thrown at it beautifully. Sure, a fifth gear sand wash in Ocotillo requires a bit more attacking than cruising through the silt on a 450, but that’s about it. Tight trails, sharp 180s on a track, sand whoops, long doubles, the power from bottom end to top end seems to have no problems adapting on how I choose to ride it. It honestly feels a little bit like riding a 350 when I ride this bike, with the only thing that brings me back down to the 250 reality is how quickly you run through the gears on occasion.

A few quirky things I have struggled with are the need to take the whole muffler off to get to one bolt when you remove the lower right rear side panel, and the headpipe sticks out just a touch too far apparently. With the trail riding I’ve been doing, I’ve needed to plant my foot in weird spots or actually step off the right side of the bike to swing it around a couple of times. I’ve now burnt my pants at the knee three separate times on the header while doing this. The expletives have been aplenty.

The next steps I have planned are likely to go to a taller bar as the stock one is just a bit to low for me. I adjusted the angle of it as I tend to ride over the front of the bike a bit more, but that only seemed to pull my shoulders forward and not actually help me with maneuverability. I’m definitely also getting a carbon fiber headpipe guard, but that’s really just because I need to protect me from myself apparently. I really don’t want to finick too much with the power as I love it currently, but I’ve thought about maybe going up a tooth on the sprocket to just widen that range a bit more. I also think I’m not done with adjusting suspension even though I’m happy with the current setting, so maybe just having them valved to my weight and speed will do the trick.

Either way, I’ve been pleasantly surprised with the feel of the bike so far. I loved it the second I hopped on it and I still love it now. Thinking back to the last time I had a 250F in 2010, I remember loving the bike, but feeling frustrated with how hard you had to ride it at times. I haven’t felt that once with the Husqvarna. Working a desk job for Racer X and running my own business on the side, I don’t always have an abundance of time to hit the tracks, so having a 250F like this one that doesn’t pull my arms out of socket, yet still easy to be lazy on like a 450, is perhaps the perfect balance for me. I’m definitely looking forward to continuing dialing in the bike to my liking more and more. Stay tuned too Keeferinctesting.com and Racerxonline.com for more updates on the 2021 FC250.

Top 5 Mods To The 2021 Kawasaki KX250

We have just over 25 hours on the 2021 KX250 and so far we really love this machine. The KX250 is one of our favorite 250F’s to ride due to the work the Kawasaki R&D engineers made to the 2021 model . Although there will be a follow up article soon with some ECU and engine mods we thought why not throw up our initial top 5 mods that we have done to our worn in 2021 KX250. These mods below have improved the engine and chassis feel even more and as given us more confidence in the machine.

1. Pro Circuit Ti-6 Muffler System: Normally I DO NOT get more bottom end with a PC system (versus stock) on any brand of bike, but I was surprised that I got a little extra bottom end pulling power out of the PC system. RPM response is a little softer than the stock system, but when opening up the throttle out of corners the KX250 with the PC system pulls harder than the stocker. Mid range is where you will feel the meat of this power. When accelerating out of the corner and shifting to third, the KX250 doesn't have that “empty” feeling that the stock muffler has at times when the track is tilled deep. The PC system keeps pulling once the KX250 is shifted into third gear and continues to pull harder into the top end of the machine. Over-rev is as good as stock and I didn’t notice any loss of over-rev when swapping the two mufflers back and forth. 

 The only real negative I have found from the PC system is I wish it would have a little more low end RPM response. Like I mentioned that stock muffler has a great initial touch of throttle which can make the bike feel a little lighter when hopping over bumps or popping out of blown out berms. The PC system pulls better out of corners, but is just a smoother initial touch (AKA, low end RPM response). If you want more low end RPM response and could stand to lose some pulling power then take the screen out of the Ti-6. Doing this will give you more low end RPM response, but will hurt some mid range.

2. ECU Re-Mapping: If you want more pulling power as well as more top end install the “Chavez Map” with your Pro Circuit Ti-6 or any other muffler system and thank me later.  We used Kawasaki’s Calibration Tool to tweak the fuel and ignition timing in order to try and get some more pulling power out of the 2021 KX250. The map you see above will get you some extra torque when exiting corners while maintaining the excellent mid-top end power that the 2020 comes with. Use the stock green coupler with this ECU setting…

3. Gearing: 13/50 gearing is just fine for the Intermediate to Pro level rider with either the green or white coupler. If you’re a heavier rider that is lazier in corners you can try a 13/51 gearing to help you get back into the meat of the power sooner. We suggest using the green coupler with our preferred ECU setting with the 13/51 gearing however. This will ensure that mid-top end pulling power doesn’t fall off too soon.

4. 110 Rear Tire: A few manufacturers still like to run a 100/90-19 rear tires because it’s lighter. However, the 110/90-19 rear tire offers more traction and has better comfort on square edge, hard pack areas of the track. The 110 doesn't weigh the 2020 KX250 down in deeper soil that much and in fact, I see no negative on the track to going up a size on the rear. The Kawasaki has plenty of mid-top end to carry the small amount of extra weight the 110 carries. You will get more lean angle bite coming out of corners as well as increased stability with the 110. The 110 will fit on your 1.85 rear rim so don’t worry about your standard current rim size with the 110 rear tire sizing. I am currently running a 110/90-19 Dunlop MX33 on the rear of the KX250 with good results in soft to intermediate terrain. 

5. Pro Taper EVO Handlebar: 

 The stock Renthal Fatbar 839 handlebar is a great bend, but for me it’s still too stiff. If you’re looking to get less vibration and more flex out of your 2021 KX250 look into a Pro Taper SX Race bend as it’s only a couple millimeters lower than the Renthal 839 bend in height. 

Honorable Mention: Ride Engineering makes awesome one piece rubber mounted bar mounts that DO NOT twist like the stock ones have/can. The stock bar mounts are soft so going to these 100.00 bar mounts ensured my handlers do not twist in my clamps. I like the stock triple clamp for this machine so I left stock triple clamps on.

Maintenance Schedule: 

• Change oil every 2.5 engine hours with Blud Racing Pro Series 10/40

• Oil filter every other oil change

• New Chain guide/slider at hour 15

• Purchase a new throttle tube when getting new grips. (Stock grips are vulcanized to the tube)

• New DID ERT3 gold chain at 10 hours

• Running VP T4 race fuel

• Using Dunlop MX3S front/33 rear combo at 13.5/12.5 PSI

• Acerbis Plastic Kit at 20 hours

• Throttle Jockey Team Green Graphics Kit

Which Bike Is Best For You? 2021 KTM 450 SX-F Vs. Husqvarna FC450

The average shootout format seems to be an outdated model to me. Don’t get me wrong, I like doing shootouts, as well as viewing their rankings after all is said and done, but is it really telling you, the potential consumer, what you want to know or is it more of a scene on the side of the freeway that you just have to look at? I have done shootouts for 20 plus years and although fun and interesting to do, I just don’t know if it’s something that gives buyers the most information in these ever changing times. Just because a certain bike wins a shootout doesn’t mean it’s the best bike FOR YOU! I get countless emails about which bike is right for me and most of them say that they watch every shootout video, but they still can’t decide. So if you are one of these potential consumers that still can’t make up his or her mind, then this article can help you hone in on why a certain bike could be right for you. As a production test rider for several manufacturers over the years, I am wired to think about all different types of riders when I evaluate a certain machine. In this article I will try to break down each machine, which one does certain things on the track better than the other and hopefully give you more purchasing knowledge on which way you’re directing your hard earned money. We will be doing these types of matchups with other machines down the road, but we hope this gives you a more clear cut path on if one of these two machines are right for you. 

Why KTM Vs. Husqvarna: I picked these two because let’s face it, most of you out there think these two machines are the same, however when I ride these bikes back to back they don’t feel that similar. The Husqvarna is lower to the ground compared to the KTM (10mm lower) so handling feels different. The engine character varies because of the subframe/airbox differences and the suspension setting/bump absorption doesn’t feel the same due to, you guessed it, swingarm and valving differences. Each have specific traits about them that are better than the other and we are here to break those down for you. Even if we do break all of the nuts and bolts down to you, it’s up to you to know what type of rider you are. Are you a front end steering rider? Do you like an exciting or smooth engine character? How often do you ride? Do you just ride or do you race occasionally? These are the questions you should be asking yourself before you spend 10K on a new dirt bike. 

What Is It Like To Ride A 2021 KTM 450 SX-F?

Engine Feel: The KTM has more roll on low end power and throttle response than the FC450. The KTM does feel lighter in tighter areas of the track, but feels similar to the FC450 through the mid range. However, top end doesn’t pull quite as far as the Husqvarna nor does the KTM feel like it revs out as far as the FC (in map one or two). Engine vibration is more noticeable with the KTM, but to me the KTM’s ECU feel just has more crispness and a cleaner feel throughout the RPM range. If you’re looking for massive amounts of torque feel on the track, you’re looking at the wrong color, but if you want an easy to ride 450 that you can actually manage, this orange bike is best in class in that category. 

Chassis: If you're a current KTM owner you know that it takes more time to break in the 2021 steel frame compared to a Japanese aluminum framed motorcycle. I only around 10 hours on this chassis, but it literally took me almost 7 hours to feel completely broke in. The Husqvarna feels more forgiving sooner than the KTM frame. The KTM turns better in area 2 of the corner compared to the FC, but the Husqvarna does have a little better side to side movement than the orange bike does due to the lower feel of the white bike. Straight line stability on the KTM is not the best of the 450 bunch, but not the worst neither. You can drop the WP XACT fork down to the first line (2.5mm up) like I did to help straight line stability. 

Suspension: WP has changed their settings for both manufacturers in 2021 as the two brands each has proprietary settings. The KTM has a firmer feel that I prefer because when I start pushing the orange machine it simply has less movement for my liking. Going up to an 11 bar reading on the AER fork as well as a slightly slower rebound setting really helps calm the front end down coming into corners and lets front end steering riders enjoy their technique more around the track. The rear end is not as finicky to set up as the front so going to a 104-105mm of sag along with a slightly stiffer low speed compression setting on the shock will be something that riders 170 pounds and over will appreciate. If you’re over 200 pounds, going to a heavier shock spring will help balance under acceleration. 

What Is It Like To Ride A 2021 Husqvarna FC450?

Engine Feel: The Husqvarna FC450 has a smoother roll on power than the KTM and less low end excitement. The airbox as well as the muffler is a little different on FC and to me these two parts are the reason for a more connected/smoother corner exit feel. Mid range however the FC450 starts to show you why it’s one of the most seamless power deliveries in the 450 game. The Husqvarna has a wide mid range that allows longer second and third gear shift points, that the KTM doesn’t quite have. Top end/over-rev also pulls slightly longer than the KTM spread and vibration of the engine is not as apparent. It might build RPM’s too slowly for some 450 sized riders, but lighter riders will appreciate the engine character. The ECU setting although better for 2021, just feels different than the KTM. It still has a slightly rich feeling overall and maybe with the new “ECU Tool” that KTM/Husqvarna will be coming out with, can help some of the Husqvarna’s low end laziness. 

Chassis: Having the lowered 10mm suspension setting is noticeable the moment you hit your first corner. The Husqvarna feels lighter in area 1 of the corner, but needs more engine excitement for area 2 (when getting on throttle). Area 3 of the corner however, the rear end of the FC450 feels more planted than the KTM. I get more rear wheel traction out of corners as the overall feel of the Husqvarna does feel lower to the ground under throttle. Straight line stability is better on throttle with the Husqvarna, but to me, off throttle, the KTM holds up better, which allows me to charge into corners harder. 

Suspension: Husqvarna/WP will tell you that they set up their 2021 suspension settings for the average consumer that wants comfort out of their motocross machine. They succeeded in getting less mid stroke harshness (de-cel) out of the AER fork, but to me the setting is still too soft. I also understand that I am not the target consumer Husqvarna is trying to market this bike to, so I took this into consideration. The action of the fork is smoother feeling than last year’s fork setting, moves less in the stroke, but gives the rider a considerable amount of front end traction (for an air fork) on braking bumps. This new lower 10mm AER fork will feel low if you’re a heavier or aggressive type of rider, so going up to10.9 bar would be in your best interest. Slowing the rebound down a couple clicks on the fork will also slow the action down a little even more and keep it from diving too much on jump faces and g-outs. Also don't forget to bleed your AER fork before every ride. Yes, it has bleed holes. I noticed the Husqvarna is more temperamental to this. 

The WP rear shock still likes a sag of 105mm, but the overall feel of the shock is slightly empty feeling (soft) at the end of the stroke. If you’re slamming into steeper jump faces or g-outs you will bottom out and see rubber marks under the rear fender fairly quickly. If you’re experiencing a lot of this, stiffening your high speed compression a quarter turn and turning in your low speed compression a couple clicks will help the shock’s end stroke feel. What the 2021 rear shock does do better than the 2020 is offer more rear wheel traction on acceleration bumps. The rear wheel drives through square edge chop better and doesn't give the rider a sticky feel like the 2020 shock did. The lowered Husqvarna setting to me benefits lighter or shorter riders much better than the KTM.   

Which Bike Is Right For Which Type Of Rider? 

Even though both of these bikes are great machines we put our thinking caps on and thought of a few different types of riders. Below is a list of a few labeled riders, so if you think you can relate to one of these riders below, picking the correct color should be made easier for you. However, if you still can’t make a decision after viewing these, my door is always open at kris@keeferinctesting.com. Maybe I can help you further. 

Vet Rider (Less than 200 pounds): Husqvarna FC450

 Vet Rider (More than 200 pounds): KTM 450 SX-F

 Aggressive Light Rider (under 170 pounds): Husqvarna FC450 

Lugging/Lazy/Smooth Type Of Rider(Gear High): KTM 450 SX-F

 Ergonomics For The 6’0 And Under Rider: Husqvarna FC450

 Ergonomics For The 6’0 And Over Rider: KTM 450 SX-F

 Front End Steering Rider: KTM 450 SX-F

 Rear End Steering Rider: Husqvarna FC450

 West Coast MX Rider (Less Loamy Dirt/Square Edge): Husqvarna FC450

 East Coast MX Rider (Loamy/Soft Dirt/Bigger Bumps): KTM 450 SX-F

 Off-Road/GP Rider: Tie/Husqvarna FC450/KTM 450 SX-F

Who Wins The Durability Test? I have ridden both of these machines a lot and will say that both of these machines have been great, but to me KTM has a less chance of breaking. I have broken one sub-frame on a Husqvarna FC450, but past that, I haven’t had any problems with the FC. Both machines require you to check engine mount bolts as well as sprocket bolts so get your blue Loctite ready!  The life on the clutch of the KTM is unbelievable as I can get up to 30 hours on a clutch (and I am hard on clutches). Replacing the fuel filter every 10-15 hours or so, in both machines, will prevent any problems down the road with your fuel pump. Rear brake pedal springs absolutely suck on both machines so get yourself a Honda CRF450R rear brake pedal spring and thank me later.   

Who Wins The MSRP/Contingency Battle? The KTM contingency is better than Husqvarna’s at most races in 2021. So if making some money for parts is your think when you race, go the orange brigade route. 

 Who’s Best In Which Category? 

If you’re really dissecting on which part of the motorcycle is most important for you when riding, below is a ranking on who is better (albeit it could only be slightly better) in over 30 categories! Again, there is no winner or loser in this test, but it’s about which bike is best for you!

 ENGINE:

 Low End Power: KTM

 Mid Range Power: FC/KTM

 Top End Power: FC

 Over-Rev: FC

 Roll On Acceleration (Control): FC

 Throttle Response: KTM

 FI Setting: KTM

HANDLING:

 Straight Line Stability: FC

 Turning/Cornering: KTM

 Steer Effort (Low Speed): FC

 Steer Effort (High Speed): FC

 Maneuverability: KTM

 Weight Feeling: KTM

 C.G. Feeling: FC

 Weight Bias: KTM

FORK:

 Comfort: KTM

 Performance: KTM

 Bottoming Resistance: KTM

SHOCK:

 Comfort: KTM

 Performance: KTM

 Bottoming Resistance: KTM

BRAKES:

 Front Brake Power: KTM

 Front Brake Feel: KTM

 Rear Brake Power: KTM/FC Tie

 Rear Brake Feel: KTM/FC Tie

RIDING COMFORT:

 Machine Size: KTM has a roomier rider triangle and feels slightly narrower feeling

 Handlebar Feel: FC has Pro Taper, much better bar. 

 Grips: FC/KTM 

 Seat Position/Height: FC/KTM

 Seat Shape: FC/KTM

 Seat Stiffness: FC

 Leg Room: KTM

 Vibration: FC has less vibration feel

 Engine Noise: FC is quieter 

2021 Honda CRF450R Initial Baseline Settings/Mods

I have come to find out that Honda didn’t allocate enough 2021 Honda CRF450R’s to dealerships, so if you’re lucky enough to be able to get your hands on one, you may be looking for a couple fixes and a baseline settings for your new red ride! Have no fear as I have been spending some quality time on the 2021 Honda CRF450R and have come up with a couple fixes as well as a setting that may work for a broad range of riders. Below are a couple mods that you can do for a relatively low cost and get a dramatic change in the way your 2021 CRF450R rides. 

ECU Setting: 

Honda doesn’t exactly want you to change their ECU settings, but in the 2021’s case, we have no choice but to try and get some better maps as the standard 1&2 maps are very rich/dirty feeling on low RPM situations. Honda doesn’t “really” have an ECU tool for the consumer to make custom maps, so we have to leave it up to only a chosen few techs that have the Honda’s programmer. Even when a tech has a Honda programmer, map 1 is locked, so only map 2 and 3 are available to change. I have talked to a few 21’ CRF450R owners that DO NOT feel the rich/dirty feeling, but if you find it bothersome, I have tested some new maps with Jamie from Twisted Development that will help. You can send your stock ECU into Twisted Development for a re-flash that will change your map 2 & 3 settings. With the Twisted re-flash, map 2 now has better pulling power than the standard map two, but still feels long and linear like map 1. Connection is better to the rear wheel now that map two is cleaned up so slow RPM cornering is much cleaner. Acceleration out of corners provides more forward rear wheel bite and helps second gear roll on delivery. The Twisted #3 map has more bottom end snap and pulls harder out of corners, which is great for softer conditions. This map is great for you eat coast soft/loamy riders, but still fairly manageable when the track gets rough. With the Twisted re-flash the 3rd map gives you more bottom mid range with a little less over-rev, so this map is a great third gear roll on map for lazier riders. The Twisted re-flash will set you back $200.00 and is well worth the money considering how bad the standard mapping is on the 2021 Honda CRF450R.  www.td-racing.com or 951-698-7222

Optional Suspension Setting: 

The stock suspension might be too soft for you if you’re anywhere over 180 pounds. Honda has a 5.0 N/m fork spring that is adequate for most, but the valving seems too soft. Out back the 54 N/m shock spring is also way too soft, so if you’re looking for a quick band aid to make your Honda CRF450R better, without going to a re-valve, going a spring rate up on each end has helped me feel more secure on high speed tracks, as well as soft bumpy tracks. Bringing both ends up a little in the stroke (with the heavier spring rates) has given me more front/rear wheel traction as well a Honda that corners better without over-steering. Unlike the 2020 Honda CRF450R going up a spring rate on the 2021 version has given the new red bike more track toughness. If you’re not into spending more money on a re-valve at this time, simply get some heavier springs and try this setting: 

Fork: 

Spring Rate: 5.1 N/m

Height: 2mm

Comp: 11-12 out

Rebound: 11 out

Shock:

Spring Rate: 56 N/m 

L/S Comp: 12 clicks out

H/S Comp: 2 3/4 clicks out

Rebound: 10 clicks out

Sag: 106mm

Test Muffler Shown. Not production model.

FMF 4.1 Muffler System: 

Putting an aftermarket muffler system on isn’t necessarily about more horsepower, but about changing the character of the engine in a way that the Honda needs. I went out and tested three different versions of what FMF is about to offer the consumer and the one I chose looks to be the one that will go into production. So what does the 4.1 system do? What I liked about the 4.1 system right off the bat is that it calmed down the vibration feel that I get on the Honda. For whatever reason bolting on the 4.1 helped the harmonic vibration that I get when hitting higher RPM’s from the stock muffler. This actually gave the Honda more comfort, because it felt less rigid! The 4.1 also made the engine character broader with better low end RPM response, but with a smoother roll on. Mid range is increased as well as slightly more top end/over-rev in 2nd/3rd gears. After going through three different versions of pre-production FMF systems and several headpipe/muffler combinations I was pleased with what we left the track with. I was so pleased that I kept my favorite FMF combination on my test machine. 

2021 Kawasaki KX450 Baseline Settings

Engine Feel: Just in case you were trying to decide on if the 2021 KX450 is better than the 2020, even though not much has changed, there is actually a little difference because of the new clutch. The 2020 comes on quicker with a lighter, more free-revving feel and has less engine braking, but the 2021 has more connection to the rear wheel, more control under throttle and has a little more engine braking, which for me is a good thing. I am usually not a guy who likes to de-tune a stock 450cc motocross bike, but the 2020 Kawasaki simply is too crisp from 0-5% throttle opening on slicker/hard pack tracks. The 2021 KX450 comes on a little smoother down low and feels like the new clutch helps with rear wheel traction.  

The mid range has a nice amount of meat and the smoother pulling power of the top end/over-rev is noticeable on longer straights or up hills. I didn’t lose mid to top end pulling power with the black coupler (compared to the stock green one) and I could ride the KX450 more aggressively through corners with the updated clutch. This is an impressive power plant!

Weight Feeing (Chassis): I am able to lay the KX450 down with ease and cut down under a blown out rut almost as easy as a KTM/Husqvarna. I do get a little twitch on de-cel (which can be fixed with a fork spring change), but it wasn't a horrible or un-easy feeling. Straight line stability is still the same straight and arrow Kawasaki feel that you expect, but with added traction. The frame absorption is the best attribute of this machine and other manufacturers should take notice of how well this KX450 feels when the track goes to crap. The whole bike feels friendlier than any other 2021 machine on square edge and the only other one that comes close in comfort is the Yamaha YZ450F.   

Suspension Comfort: The 2021 Kawasaki is so much more balanced than previous generation KX450’s and I was able to set the front end down where I wanted to without feeling like the front end was going to snap my wrists. The fork has tons of comfort, but is also too soft/low on de-cel for my liking. At tracks with hills or sizable jumps, the fork was too low in the stroke and bottomed too many times. Going stiffer on the compression only hurt de-cel bump comfort, so I settled on going slower on the rebound, which helped some. The shock is soft as well on slap down landings, but going eight clicks (two full turns) in helped keep the rear end up and thus helps wallow feeling. This setting will get you by on most tracks, but do yourself a favor and read the recommended suspension settings below for optimal balance of the KX450. The recommended settings below will help with hold up and ride comfort.

Cornering/Chassis: The 2021 KX450 is a more “neutral” cornering machine than in previous years. I am able to get more rear wheel bite than last year, but I am still able to turn on the front end fairly well. I had a rear end steering tester with me when we did the intro and he mentioned how well it backed into corners still. I thought front end bite from area 2-3 of corners was still acceptable, but got even better with a heavier fork spring. I say “area 2-3” because the KX450 still does have a slight vague feel on entrance of corners, so increasing spring rate prevents the front end from diving, which in turn prevents your front tire from pushing on entrance. 

Rider Triangle: The footpeg to seat to handlebar ratio is great! The seat is flat, which puts me more on top of the machine and the Renthal 839 Fatbar makes the bike feel very friendly for a wide range of riders. 

Brakes: Do yourself a favor and get a 2021 KX250 rear disc and hanger. The 250mm disc is too grabby and really screws up my corners/braking points. The rear end will slide when I don't expect it and this causes my corners to be herky/jerky. Go back to the 240mm disc on the 21 KX250 and live life happier. 

2021 KX450 Suspension Settings:

After almost 20 hours on the 21 KX450 these are the best settings for a wide range of riders. This setting is based around comfort and will give the rider the most confidence. Use this set up until you get a re-valve. Once you re-valve, use recommended suspension tuners spec.

Fork: 

Spring Rate .51 N/m Spring (.50 N/m is stock) *If B level rider and over 200 pounds .52 N/m springs are also a great option*

Oil Level: Standard

Compression:11-12 clicks out

Rebound Range: 10-11 clicks out

Fork Height: 2-3 mm

 Shock:

Spring Rate: .54 N/m (190 pounds or over, try .56 N/m)

Low Speed Compression: 16 clicks out

High Speed Compression: 1 1/8 turns out

Rebound: 10-11 out

Coupler/ECU Setting:

The engine on the 2021 KX450 in stock is smooth off the bottom and easy to ride, but does have a little dip from mid to top, so I created this map to help fill that dip in and make it pull slightly longer. You will notice even more of a linear (more control at low RPM) pull down low without any jerky feeling through corners. With this map installed it helped settle the chassis down through long ruts and improved overall traction feel. In the testing world we call this "cornering stability". With this map installed it helped the 2021 KX450's cornering stability, especially on intermediate terrain. You will need to use the white coupler and use the Kawasaki FI Calibration Tool to create this map. 

Aftermarket Mufflers: I have tried a lot of mufflers with the KX450 and to me the FMF and PC have the most noticeable change to the engine character of the KX450. As ugly as the stock muffler is, it’s a very good muffler for a broad range of power delivery. However, when you go to a FMF muffler, do yourself a favor and look at this article on how to make it rubber mounted. https://www.keeferinctesting.com/offroad-testing/2020/10/8/how-to-save-your-subframe-on-your-2019-2021-kawasaki-kx450. 

We have broken a subframe tab because the FMF is a solid mount system, not rubber mounted. This doesn’t necessarily mean that the subframe tab will not break if it’s rubber mounted as we have broken the tab on the subframe with the stock muffler as well (which is rubber mounted).

This guy knows a thing or two about muffler brackets.

On My Own Dime (2021 Honda CRF450R)

I met Dallas Dunn through the hi dez as we sometimes met up at the same places to ride from time to time. As I got to know him more, I could tell he was a quiet, hard working guy, that just loved to ride anything two wheels. Dallas is an accomplished BMX rider as well as one of the best photographers I have come across in my time. When I started this OMOD thing, I wanted some of my core test riders as well as free lance guys to write some raw evaluations, for you the consumer. When Dallas told me he purchased a new 2021 Honda CRF450R, I thought this would be a perfect article for Keefer Inc. Testing. Dallas works his balls off, is a single dad and purchased a $12,000 motorcycle because he loves to ride. How many of us can relate to that?! I would say A LOT of us could. Without further adieu, here’s Dallas and what he thought about his purchase. -KK

Let me start out by saying I’m by no means a great test rider, I think I am getting better at feeling the motorcycle, but this isn’t what I do all the time. I’m a 34-year-old and a full time heavy equipment operator that just loves to ride dirt bikes in my spare time. Thankfully Kris has taken me under his wing and gave me the opportunity to be a part of Keefer Inc. My main roll here is lurking around in the background with a camera in my hands shooting photos, but I want to challenge myself to learn other things to help out as well, so that’s why we are here giving you my “On My Own Dime” article.

The New 2021 Honda CRF450R has been one of the last bikes to get released and hit the showroom floor. I have been riding Suzuki’s for the last couple years, but when I laid my eyes on the new Honda CRF450R, I was instantly sold. Honda is known for its quality motorcycles with great durability so this red one is the one I really wanted. Since selling my RMZ450 in July, I’ve been waiting for this beauty to hit the dealers and I almost pulled the trigger on the 2021 Kawasaki KX450F, which is also a great bike, but my heart was set on the CRF450R machine. I’m stoked I didn’t settle. September 16th Honda had their Intro at Glen Helen Raceway, but unfortunately I was not ale to make it down with Kris that day because I was on shift at work.

After hearing about the first rides on the bike and some of the negative reviews on the ECU mapping, I was a little discouraged. I thought the bikes would get delayed longer… I almost went down to the local dealer and picked up and the 2021 KX450, but I would call Kris to chat it up and he would just say, “just CHILL DOWN and wait”. Not much time went by and they showed up at a local Southern California dealer. They had a few extras that were not spoken for, so I left work early and hauled ass down to the dealer and plopped down 12K on a new Honda! Yeah, 12K. More on that later…

After about three months off the bike I was back in business the following Tuesday. I loaded up my fresh new CRF, met up with Kris and Aden down at State Fair MX to break her in for its maiden voyage. So far, the bike hasn’t had the best reviews, but I was still stoked on it. I really wanted to compare what I felt to the amazing test riders that really are just splitting hairs. 

My first time out on the track just to break it in my first impression was WOW this thing is bad ass. I had a grin from ear to ear under my helmet! Coming off a 20 RMZ 450 that had a few mods, this new Honda already feels better than what I was used to riding. I did 2x15 min mid throttle motos with cool down periods for break in and was ready to give it a real test. 

CHASSIS/SUSPENSION 

I’ve always liked the rider triangle and ergonomics on Hondas, so I already felt right at home and after coming off the RMZ, this bike was confidence inspiring for me. The bike tracked straight and felt compliant over the small bumps that we have on the west coast. State Fair MX is a smaller track, so I don’t feel I have any issues with stability. I’m 170 pounds so as of right now the stock suspension fell adequate enough for my Vet B rider ass. I feel like I can go a little stiffer on the fork, but I just left it alone for the day. My Technique is a little off from not riding for a few months, but cornering this bike was next level. Honda’s new thing is “Razor Sharp Cornering” and I noticed it did have a Suzuki feel when entering corners. I also liked that it tracked straight on the exit of the corner over acceleration bumps. When I went to a faster track the following day I dripped the forks down to 3mm and that helped increase stability without hurting the cornering character I liked so much. 

ENGINE:

Compared to the 2020 CRF this new 2021 bike has a lot more roll on power that doesn’t just explode out from underneath you. This 2021 power plant is much more manageable. At times I was wondering if I was in 2nd or 3rd gear because even 3rd gear had great low end power and I could lug the bike around if I wanted to. I rode in map 1 and I could feel the (dirty/gargle) rich feeling down low so I rode in MAP 3 most of the time during the couple days I tested/rode. This Honda is very easy to ride and roll on throttle almost felt like a KTM. I want to have the ECU re-flashed by Chad at XPR, or Jamie at Twisted to see how much better this red machine gets. I’m excited to see how the re-flash improves the throttle character. I really like the overall feel and performance of the new hydraulic clutch and the lever pull is so much better than previous years. Shifting and modulating the power in the turns with the hydraulic clutch feels much better to me than when I had my cable pull clutch on the yellow bike.

Am I Happy That I Spent 12K?:

No, but if I was going to spend 12K on a bike, this bike sure does make me forget how much it was when I ride it! That’s how much fun I am having on this machine compared to my Suzuki. This new bike has got me moteted to eat better, train more and improve myself. So I guess you can say that 12 grand is also giving me a better quality of life as well. My mental health is much better as well as getting to hang out with my friends and ride, instead of working on my bikes is a welcomed site! -Dallas Dunn

2020 Yamaha YZ250FX Review/Baseline Suspension Settings

Written By: Michael Allen

Just like a long lost love or relationship there usually is a certain machine that you will have throughout your life that was your “high school sweetheart”, one that was “quirky, but fun” or maybe it was “the one that got away”. For me, ever since I went to the introduction of the Yamaha 250FX in 2015, the FX has been on my mind more than once. I think the reason I have always loved the FX is because it has the capabilities of being competitive in multiple disciplines of off-road riding and racing. Although I love the YZ 250F, I think I’m better suited to ride the FX since my group of riding buddies is quite diverse and I may find myself riding moto on Friday, then rock hopping on Sunday. Since the FX was released in 2015 it has been refined and updated (usually a year or two after the moto bike), but I think the 2020 iteration has taken the largest step towards one of the best bikes I have ever rode. Why? Let me explain… 

I didn’t get the chance to go to the 2020 FX launch on the east coast, but I heard all about it from Keefer’s test guys about how much fun it was and how they enjoyed the bike. I was super interested in trying it since I had ridden the previous FX extensively and knew what I did and didn’t like about it. The older bike had a bit of a reputation for feeling wide with those big air scoops that are in the radiator shrouds. The new body work makes the YZ feel closer to other moto bikes and also makes the air filter easier to access than the previous model.  With claims of the new chassis helping the bikes ability to turn and an all new engine having the ability to be tuned with your phone, I couldn’t wait to pick up the new FX from Keefer’s shop to hit the trails and ride some moto. 

The first thing that stuck out to me when I hopped on the 2020 250FX was the new body work and slimmer feel. Gone was the feeling of being slightly bow legged when pinching with my knees in the sitting position. The Yamaha now feels much better between your knees and the shrouds look aesthetically much better than the previous model. I personally like the fact that there isn’t a gas cap on the outside of the plastic because it gives you the ability to scoot further up without crushing what’s between your legs. Although it does come with a quality skid plate, I had to add handguards to protect my dainty digits, which isn’t a big deal, but I seem to be doing this with most hybrid machines lately. Having the map switch on the bar is a huge plus as well as being able to tune the bike from your smart phone. 

Although it’s an off-road bike, the first place I rode it was at a Glen Helen Vet motocross race where I was pleasantly surprised with its capabilities. Compared to the motocross model the FX is sprung and valved lighter, but that isn’t necessarily a bad thing. I am by no means a pro moto rider, so at my speed (vet intermediate) and weight (170lbs) as long as I didn’t grossly case or over jump anything the suspension was very compliant. For moto riding I did add 3 clicks (stiffen) of fork compression and take one click out (slower) of rebound which seemed to do the trick. I think one step up on the fork spring would help with the slight front end dive I noticed under hard braking on the moto track. After going back to the stock clicker settings before trail riding I ended up going back to the moto setting because the stock settings are just a touch soft in most off-road situations. The new chassis is a huge improvement when it comes to cornering and overall front end traction. The 2020 takes less effort to lean into rutted corners and once in the corner the front end had more traction which leads to a more overall confident feeling of the front end not washing out. While the 2020 corners far better than the previous model, the new FX only slightly lacked in straight line stability. Only at very high speeds does the front end feel slightly nervous (front end deflection), but I will gladly take that tradeoff to have a better turning motorcycle. When I rode faster trails with square edge speeding the rebound does help calm the front end a little more, so if you’re racing GP’s, do yourself a favor and speed the rebound up one to two clicks on the fork. On tighter trails, I really appreciated the new chassis as it feels lighter (than previous year FX’s) when trying to maneuver the blue machine in switchbacks or tighter rocky areas.     

The 2020 has an all new engine mated with a 6-speed transmission and a large diameter off-road specific clutch. The previous FX had unreal torque for a 250F, but the power seemed short up on top end. Yamaha did their best to retain the great bottom end while adding power on top and the compromise they came to is a good mix. While some of the torque just off idle is gone (low end grunt), the new engine now pulls further into the RPM range, especially second and third gears and gives the engine a more free revving playful characteristic. I have used a few different maps and came to the conclusion that the maps provided by Yamaha as well as the moto maps we have for the YZ 250F are the best (https://www.keeferinctesting.com/motocross-testing/2019/9/3/2020-yamaha-yz250f-baseline-start-upbaseline-settingstips). I keep coming back to the Keefer free feeling map as I think the power works well in a moto or off-road setting. I usually keep this map as well as the torque map in the bike so they can be toggled back and forth during the ride if necessary. When I trail ride I always bring my phone, so having the ability to swap maps on the trail is very convenient. The overall power on the 2020 FX is impressive as a lot of the trails I ride have long soft sand hills and I never felt like I needed 450 power. I even let my KTM loyal 200 pound buddy ride it and he came back with a huge smile on his face. He told me that he has all new respect for a 250F and couldn’t believe how torquey the blue beast actually was. That being said, it is just a touch off of the moto version in terms of making peak horsepower.

Not that I was surprised, but the YZ 250FX has yet again advanced and still keeps itself in the #1 spot of my “if I were spending my own hard earned cash I’d buy this bike” list. I can’t tell you how many times I get asked by older riders “what 450 should I buy” and depending on their goals, I often try to steer them in the direction of a 250F in general. For some reason there is so much machismo in our sport that grown men think they need to ride 450cc dirt bikes. If you need to measure your masculinity, go measure it in the confines of your own home, not when you’re trying to purchase a dirt bike. Unfortunately those bigger bikes are ready and willing to hurt their owner when those owners don’t respect all that power. Most people don’t have the skill needed to harness the power of a 450 and they might think that 250F’s are for kids or women. I urge EVERYONE reading this to give 250F’s a chance or a test ride (especially the Yamaha) and I almost guarantee you’ll be impressed and have a blast! After all isn’t it more fun to ride a slower bike at a faster more controlled pace than to ride a faster bike at a slower sketchy one? Feel free to reach out to me with any questions at Michael@keeferinctesting.com. Now excuse me while I head to the garage to check the dipstick on my “soul mate”.

Baseline Suspension MX/Off-Road Setting: 

Fork:

Height: 3mm

Compression: 6 out

Rebound: 12 out

Shock: 

Sag: 105mm

L/S Comp: 9 out

H/S Comp: 1 Turn Out

Rebound: 10 out

2020/2020.5 Husqvarna FC450/Rockstar Edition Baseline Settings/Set Up Tips

Rejoice, Husqvarna owners, we are here with some helpful setting tips for your 2020 Husqvarna FC450 or your 2020.5 Rockstar Edition. As always if you have any questions, our job is to help you try to get as comfortable as possible, in order for you to enjoy your dirt bike even more. You can always hit the contact button on keeferinctesting.com to get some answers.  

Engine/ECU: For 2020 Husqvarna fixed most of the FC 450 ECU rich feeling problems with the help of some of us media testers. Last year the 2019 ECU setting was rich off the bottom and slightly lean on top, which made for a lethargic/inconsistent throttle delivery. For 2020 the ECU is better, has a more lively feel coming out of corners and still has the super connected rear wheel feeling. I am usually a “map two” kind of rider due to its increased pick up/recovery feel, but sometimes I am looking for that extra puling power that is needed when the track is tilled deep or soft. I have been on the Vortex ignition bandwagon for a couple years with this machine and for the Rockstar Edition/FC450 it hasn't wavered. If you want the same great rear wheel connection as well as more pulling power everywhere, along with more rpm response look into a Vortex ignition from Chad at XPR Motorsports or Jamie at Twisted Development. I have turned a lot of Husqvarna riders onto this mod and have had a 100% approval ratio. What I like about this modification is that it doesn't hurt reliability and makes for a very usable yet powerful engine for almost every type of rider. Yes, it will set you back around $800.00, but to me is much better than slapping on a muffler system and will do more for your engine. Just in case you’re worried about pricing, the Vortex has a great resale value and you will not be losing much money if/when you sell it to another lucky Husqvarna owner. 

Suspension: If you haven't listened to my WP XACT Pro Components suspension podcast you may want to at least check that out, but if you're sticking with the stock suspension for a while, you can try this setting to see if this helps comfort when the track gets rough. This setting below should be in the ballpark for riders around 165-200 pounds, but if you’re heavier than 200 pounds going to a stiffer rear spring wild help the ride attitude of the Husqvarna. I have went to several tracks and tried many different settings, but this specific setting had the most “track toughness”. The Husqvarna’s stock WP suspension doesn't quite have the comfort like a Kawasaki or Yamaha does, but the Husqvarna/WP set also holds up more in the stroke. To get some added comfort back with the added hold up, try this setting. 

Fork: (160-195 pounds)

Height: 5mm

Air Pressure: 11.1 Bar

Compression: 14-15 clicks out

Rebound: 14-15 clicks out

Shock:

Sag: 103mm

Low Speed Compression: 12-13 clicks out

High Speed Compression: 1-1/2 to 1-3/4 turns out

Rebound:  10 clicks out

Chassis: Aftermarket engine mounts are all the rage right now and some of you may not have the money to spend on a pair of engine mounts for your Husqvarna. I will say that I don’t feel like the RE’s chassis is stiff, but I have heard from other vet riders that it can be at times, so I decided to play around with torque specs on the engine mounts and stumbled across this. If you’re experiencing a stiff feeling chassis sensation and want the Husqvarna to settle while leaning (under throttle), there is an inexpensive way to achieve some extra front end traction (as well as an overall more planted feel). You can remove the left side upper engine mount bolt (upper right bolt only, as shown) and torque all other top engine mount bolts to 30Nm. This band aid will give you a more planted sensation when on throttle while leaning the FC450 RE through sweepers and fast straights. You will have to make sure that all engine mount bolts have blue Loctite to ensure they do not back out (you should do this regardless if you keep all the bolts in or not). You can also try torquing your swingarm pivot bolt to 95 Nm (instead of 100Nm) to help rear end traction out of corners. The downside to doing these mods is that the chassis will flex a little more, so if you’re riding deep tilled tracks this modification may be too “flexy” for some (especially when chopping throttle).  

Handlebars: The stock Pro Taper handlebar is great! However it is too low for my 6’0 frame, so going with a Ride Engineering one piece bar mount with 5mm risers helps (if you like the stock bar bend). I also like the Pro Taper SX Race bar and that worked well for riders from 5’8 to 6’1. The SX Race bend comes in a crossbar or crossbar-less style and is 800mm width, 87mm height, 54.5 rise, and 54mm sweep. If you’re looking for a better “stand up feel” from your Husqvarna look for a handlebar close to this measurement.  

Rear Brake Pedal Spring: Purchase a Honda CRF450R rear brake pedal spring with the rubber around the spring. The Husqvarna rear brake pedal spring vibrates and will break every 4-5 engine hours.

Gearing: I like the stock 13/49 gearing, but for sand I prefer the 14/53 gearing for mid rpm recovery and chassis feel. Yes, going to a 14/53 will put your rear wheel back more than the 13/49 and get you some extra high speed stability with the 14/53. At tracks like Glen Helen I go with a 14/53 because I get that extra planted/stable feeling coming down hills. 

Rear Axle/Axle Blocks: Going to a Works Connection Elite axle block kit or Ride Engineering axle block kit will get rid of the fixed left axle block on the stock Husqvarna’s axle. This will help the rear end to move more freely under throttle and improve the shock’s comfort on acceleration chop. Both are great, but you will have to decide if you want a complete axle/axle block kit like Ride Engineering’s  or just the blocks themselves like WC’s. 

Muffler: To me FMF makes the best muffler system for the Husqvarna Rockstar Edition. Maybe that’s why the Husqvarna RE comes with a 4.1 slip on. However, installing a megabomb headpipe will help mid range rpm response as well as give you some added top end pulling power. There are some other companies that have other bikes dialed in more, but on the Husqvarna/KTM, FMF has got it dialed. You will get more low to mid RPM response as well as more mid range pulling power. The kicker is that you will not lose bottom end or low end recovery. It’s a win/win, which rarely ever happens in the world of aftermarket parts.