2022 Husqvarna FC450 Baseline Settings/Top Mods

The Husqvarna FC450 is unchanged for 2022 besides some Brembo pieces that replaced the Magura ones (clutch/slave cylinder). The FC450 is one of the friendliest bikes in this class to ride, but to me needs to wake up a little down low to make this white stallion feel lighter. Sometimes what is on paper is not what is felt on the track so try these mods below to get some added power and comfort out of your FC450! 

Suspension: The factory fork and shock settings are soft for the average sized 450 rider (180 pounds) on the 2022 FC450 so we did go a little bit stiffer on air pressure and softer on compression settings, but have found improved results in comfort, not just performance. All three test riders (155, 170, 195 pounds) that tried this setting agreed that the bike/chassis was calmer on acceleration and de-cel bumps. This setting will give the Husqvarna better hold up as well as help the overall balance of the bike from feeling stinkbug coming into corners. Our 195 pound rider preferred a 48N/m shock spring with the recommended shock settings below.

Fork:

Air Pressure: 10.9 bar

Compression: 14-15 out

Rebound: 11 out

Fork Height: 5mm

Shock:

L/S Compression: 11-12 clicks out

H/S Compression: 1-3/4 turns out

Rebound: 12 clicks out

Sag: 104-105mm

Shock: (195 pounds and over)

Spring Rate: 48N/m

L/S Compression: 14 clicks out

H/S Compression: 2 turns out

Rebound: 13 clicks out

Sag: 104-105mm

Rider Triangle: The standard Pro Taper handlebar that comes on the FC450 is low and flat, but fits the Husqvarna’s cockpit very well for most. I did want more height from my bar when I stood up, so I went with a Pro Taper Race Team bend and this helped me get over the front of the bike more when standing. The Race Team bar worked well for riders from 5’8 to 6’1. The Race Team bend comes in a crossbar or crossbar-less style and is (W)810 (H)91 (R)49 (S)52. If you’re looking for a better stand up feel from your Husqvarna look for handlebar close to this measurement. If you do like the stock bar try cutting the bar down to 805mm instead of the longer/standard 811mm. This will help you corner.  

ECU Settings: The 2022 FC450 has a locked ECU box so getting inside to remap is not going to happen like it did two years ago. The good news is that the ECU is much cleaner and should NOT need to be remapped unless you need more power. In that case, you will need to go to a Vortex ECU mapped by Jamie at Twisted or Chad at XPR. Those are my two go to gentlemen to make usable power. Sure there are others out there, but these two guys made the most out of every Autrian bike that I have tested. If you are on a stock ECU, map 2 is my preferred standard map in most conditions as it comes on a little sooner and pulls slightly harder than map 1.

Gearing: The 2022 FC450 comes with a 13/49 gearing ratio. This gearing should be just fine for most tracks, but if you want a little more mid range engine recovery and free-er feeling shock on acceleration, a 14/52 gearing ratio works well. The 14/52 gearing will require a new chain length and I usually go with this gearing when riding tracks similar to Glen Helen (aka faster choppy tracks) to settle the rear end under load. 

Chassis: Aftermarket engine mounts are all the rage right now and some of you may not have the money to spend on a pair of engine mounts for your Husqvarna. I will say that I don’t feel like the Husqvarna’s chassis is stiff, but I have heard from other lighter riders that it can be at times, so I decided to play around with torque specs and came up with a 28Nm setting on each bolt for both engine hangers. This band aid will give you a more planted sensation when on throttle while leaning the FC450 through sweepers and fast straights. You will have to make sure that all engine mount bolts have blue Loctite to ensure they do not back out. You can also try torquing your swingarm pivot bolt to 95 Nm (instead of 100Nm) to help rear end traction out of corners. The downside to doing these mods is that the chassis will flex a little more, so if you’re riding deep tilled tracks this modification may be too “flexy” for some (especially when chopping throttle).

Rear Axle Block Kit: Going to a Works Connection axle block kit or Ride Engineering axle block kit will get rid of the fixed left axle block on the stock Husqvarna’s axle. This will help the rear end to move more freely under throttle and improve the shock’s comfort on acceleration chop. Rear wheel placement isn’t as crucial on the Husqvarna as it is on some other 450’s we have tested so if your rear wheel placement is somewhere in the middle of the axle block marks, that will be sufficient for these recommended suspension settings.

TD Exhaust Flange: The Twisted Development exhaust flanges are shaped differently than the stock OEM flange, which can change the engine character of the KTM 450 SX-F. I went through several during testing and found out a size/shape that can actually enhance the low to mid range power character. Compared to the stock piece the TD Performance flange will give you better throttle response through area 2-3 (mid to exit) of corners. Another advantage to me is that the TD flange helps pulling power out of corners as well and helps third gear lugability. The TD flange just helps the RPM’s pick up quicker, which in turn makes the KTM feel lighter when the track gets bumpy. There is no need to remap your ECU and it takes minutes to install.  

FMF 4.1 Muffler System: To me, FMF makes one of the best muffler systems for the FC450. There are some other companies that have other bikes dialed in more, but on the Husqvarna/KTM side, FMF has got it down. You will get more low to mid RPM response as well as more mid range pulling power. Top end is increased plus the over-rev is as good as stock. It is one of the few times that I was impressed because it was actually better than stock in almost all areas. The downside is that you must keep up on muffler packing (every 10-12 engine hours) because the FMF will blow out and that could damage your expensive titanium can. Did I mention that you will lose almost two pounds with this system? If you slap on spring forks you will be gaining almost three pounds. You can get most of that back down with a 4.1 Titanium FMF Muffler system.

2022 Husqvarna FC250 Suggested Settings/Mods

The 2022 Husqvarna FC250 has been in heavy circulation the past couple months and we have come across some settings to get you comfy as well as some mods that can help you get some more power out of the white stallion. 

TC Two-Stroke Air Filter Cage: This is the cheapest and easiest way to get more throttle response out of your FC 250. You will notice better throttle response through the low to mid RPM range by simply going to a TC two stroke cage with no backfire screen. Here is the part number you will need. P/N 5040601600

FMF 4.1 Full Muffler System: To me, FMF makes the best muffler system for the Husqvarna FC250. There are some other companies that have other bikes dialed in more, but on the Husqvarna, FMF has got it down. You will get more low to mid RPM response as well as more mid range pulling power. Top end is increased plus the over-rev is as good as stock. It is one of the few times that I was impressed because it was actually better than stock in almost all areas. The downside is that you must keep up on muffler packing (every 10-12 engine hours) because the FMF will blow out and that could damage your expensive titanium can. Did I mention that you will lose almost two pounds with the titanium 4.1 system? If you slap spring forks on your Husqvarna, you will be gaining almost three pounds. You can get most of that weight gain back down with a 4.1 Titanium FMF Muffler system.

Pro Taper Handlebars: But Keefer they come with Pro Taper’s! Yes, I know but now that PT offers the “Race Team bend” (810mm width, 91mm height, 49mm rise, and 52mm sweep), which is a little higher of a bend than the stock Husqvarna PT bar and is still a pretty straight. I do cut the Race Team bend down to 805mm as that is the happy medium for me and my 5’11 frame. The Pro Taper SX Race bar worked well for riders from 5’8 to 6’1 as well. Both bends come in a crossbar or crossbar-less style and the SX Race bend has a 800mm width, 87mm height, 54.5 rise, and 54mm sweep. If you’re looking for a better “stand up feel” from your FC250 look for handlebar close to these measurements.

Throttle Tube: There are a couple you can choose from here… If you’re looking for an aluminum throttle tube that is expensive, but helps the feel of your throttle, I recommend the ZRT throttle. This throttle tube makes the pull have almost zero drag and is a tough SOB. There is some set up/prep time to this throttle (cutting the right side of the handlebars), but it can help the pull over the long haul. If you’re more the plastic style tube type of rider, look at the Motion Pro Titan tube as it’s tough for a plastic tube and doesn’t have as much drag as the stock lock on style ODI grip/tube that comes on the stock FC’s. The stock plastic throttle has a lot of friction and gets tough to turn too quickly. 

Ride Engineering One Piece Bar Mount: The Ride Engineering One Piece Oversize Bar Mount has a one-piece top that is designed to resist bending much better than the stock bar mount. Precision machined from aircraft quality aluminum, there is also a 6mm difference between the forward and back mounting positions. Ride Engineering also machines their own stainless steel posts that prevent over tightening, unlike some other competing brands that DO NOT use quality posts. This bar mount has saved my son and I a couple times when we are out doing motor. He seems to crash a lot in corners and the stock mount on the FC250 just twists and bends easily.

Rear Axle/Axle Blocks: Going to a Works Connection Elite axle block kit or Ride Engineering axle block kit will get rid of the fixed left axle block on the stock KTM’s axle. This will help the rear end to move more freely under throttle and improve the shock’s comfort on acceleration chop. Both are great, but you will have to decide if you want a complete axle/axle block kit like Ride Engineering’s  or just the blocks themselves like WC’s.

Rear Brake Pedal Spring: Purchase a Honda CRF450R rear brake pedal spring with the rubber around the spring. The FC rear brake pedal spring vibrates and will break every 4-5 engine hours. Orrrrrrrrr. Get a Fasst Co rear brake return spring and be done with it! Fasst Co’s rear brake return spring offers tunable pedal resistance and a more controllable feel by placing the spring in compression instead of tension, minimizing the "on-off" feel of most rear brakes.

Fuel Filters: If you’re a FC owner, do yourself a favor and put a couple of these in your toolbox just in case. Fuel filters can get clogged on all FC’s and this can cause damage to your fuel pump or possibly not allow your bike to start properly.

Throttle Cables: If there is one thing that DOES NOT last on KTM’s/FC’s it’s the throttle cables. Every 20 hours or so I will have to replace the throttle cables to ensure that my throttle doesn’t feel hard or sticky when twisting. Originally I thought my throttle tube was dirty or maybe the right side of the handlebar had dirt on it, but I found out through a couple KTM mechanics, that the throttle cables simply wear out. You can’t lube them or clean them out as it will only make the throttle feel better for a short amount of time.  

Check All Spokes: KTM/FC spokes always come loose near the rim lock so make sure you pay attention to all the spokes after every ride. If you don’t check them constantly you will lose or break a couple. 

Check Engine Mounts/Swingarm Pivot Bolt: Always check the torx bolts that hold the top engine hangers on the bike. After break in, these will loosen up a bunch, so you might need some blue Loctite on the threads. After you do this, please continue to check these as they still back out from time to time. The torque spec on these bolts are important to the ride attitude of these FC’s. Also the FC come with frame guards and that means you will not know (until it’s too late) when your swingarm pivot bolt  backs out. Take off your frame guard and check pivot bolt regularly. While you’re at it, get the Acerbis frame guards as they last longer and have better grip than the stock ones. 

FI Indicator Light: The little FI indicator light bulb will fall out of the rubber casing as soon as you get past 10 hours. The best thing to do is put a little silicone inside the rubber casing, so the light bulb as well as the wire doesn’t flop around. 

Connector Behind Front Number Plate: If your FC or KTM is cutting out or maybe not starting, check behind the number plate for this connector. It could be unplugged or corroded from condensation. Hardwiring the wires/connecter is the best way to ensure that it doesn’t come unplugged. You can even using a two post connector instead of a four post as that can work as well. If you’re turning your handlebar to the right and your FC will not start, chances are it’s the starter wire being kinked or pulled too tight. Pull the sheathing away from the cables and inspect to see if it has come apart.

Suspension Settings:

RIDER WEIGHT: 150-185 POUNDS

Fork: 

Spring Rate: 10.7-10.8 bar

Height: 5mm

Compression: 12 clicks out 

Rebound: 9-10 clicks out

Shock:

Spring Rate: 42 N/mm

Spring Rate For 175 Pounds And Up: 45 N/mm

Sag: 102mm

High Speed Compression: 1.5 

Low Speed Compression: 9 clicks out

Rebound: 10 clicks out 

2022 Kawasaki KX250 Review/Suspension Settings

No, the 2022 KX250 IS NOT changed from the 2021 model, but that didn’t stop us from getting a re-fresher on the green machine. Below, we will walk you through some positives and negatives of the bike to see if it could be the right bike for you. If this is not enough green content for your eyes, you can also listen to show #256 of the RMATVMC Keefer Tested Podcast to get more insight on the 2022 KX250. Also look below for some baseline settings for the green machine.

Engine:

Even though the 2022 KX250 engine has been unchanged, Kawasaki is still one of the top three 250 four stroke engines in my opinion. I like that this engine can rev to 14,500 and you can feel that on the track when riding! The 2022 KX250′s engine characteristics are the same to the 2021 package with that great over-rev because of the increased rev limit they achieved in 2021. They achieved this higher rpm mainly by adding stiffer valve springs along with new camshaft timing. The power delivery is definitely better if you keep the rpm up and although the green bike doesn’t have that Yamaha mid range meat, it still pulls strong. Maintaining the correct gear is also important, meaning second gear will be used in most corners and will not give you that lugability like the Yamaha. The engine revs far enough that shifting to third gear is not needed until you have exited the corner and down the straight a bit. The FI mapping runs right great from the get-go.

There are three different preprogrammed settings available. These are changed via a coupler located on the right side just by the steering stem. Green is standard, white is aggressive, and black is mellow. This is the same system as what comes on the KX450. I tested all three and found improvements in certain areas with the white and black couplers. Each had improvements, but they also had some drawbacks. The Kawasaki technicians created a custom map that uses the ignition settings of the white coupler and the fuel mapping of the black coupler, which made for a noticeable improvement in the overall power and was accomplished by increasing the midrange torque, which helped it continue to make power further into the highest of rpm. I wouldn’t say it was huge, but it helped with mid rpm torque and seemed to make the power even longer into the upper rpm range. This is called the Chavez Map which has been around for a couple years now.

To do this custom mapping on your own, you would need to buy the accessory KX FI Calibration Kit, which retails for $699.95. It can be found on the Kawasaki website and ordered through your local dealer. This is an added expense, but if you are serious enough about your racing, you are probably already planning on getting your suspension revalved and purchasing an aftermarket exhaust, race gas, and more. So, it is worth considering adding this tool to your race budget.

Clutch:

The hydraulic clutch works well and to me isn't as on/off as the Brembo system. This Nissin unit is the same system that is used on the KX450 and it has proven to work well. The clutch assembly is also using a cone-disc spring in place of a coil-spring system. The clutch friction plates have three different materials to help reduce clutch fade from heat. The clutch works well and plate life is on par with the Honda CRF450R system. It was easy to modulate and because of the hydraulic system, there was no fade during our motos. Shifting under load was reasonably easy with only the smallest amount of clutch lever input, which is much better than the KTM under load.

Chassis/Ergos:

The KX250 chassis is based off the same platform as the KX450. For me, at 5’11, the Kawasaki chassis fits me well and I would say this would be true for most riders. The feel is almost Honda’esq but slimmer feeling. The rider triangle is neutral with plenty of room for adjustment. The handlebar can be moved forward or backward and the footpegs have an optional lower position for taller riders or someone looking to try to lower the bike’s center of gravity. The chassis is also narrow—possibly one of the narrowest four-stroke bikes on the market. Sitting on the KX250, I would say it is a little more of a sitting on top of the bike feeling, but not sitting as high as a KTM or Husqvarna.

The brakes are also great on the KX250 for 2022. The front brake system is the same as the KX450 including the 270mm front rotor. That means the bike now comes with the KX’s very distinct, thin front brake lever. The 250 rear brake has a smaller 240mm rear rotor (down from 250mm on 2020 model). The front brake lever is noticeably thinner than most other brands and to me is annoying. It is fairly easy to modulate and offers a medium to firm feel. The rear brake is noticeably improved with the smaller 240mm rotor over the KX450. Going to the 240 rear rotor helps the rear brake feel less touchy/grabby.

Suspension:

(150-170 Pounds)

Fork: 

Spring Rate: 4.9 N/mm

Height: 4mm

Compression: 11-12 clicks out 

Rebound: 10 clicks out 

Shock:

Spring Rate: 54 N/mm

Sag: 103mm

High Speed Compression: 1.25 turns out

Low Speed Compression: 8 clicks out

Rebound: 10 clicks out 

(175-200 Pounds)

Fork: 

Spring Rate: 4.9 N/mm

Height: 4mm

Compression: 9-10 clicks out 

Rebound: 12 clicks out 

Shock:

Spring Rate: 56 N/mm

Sag: 104mm

High Speed Compression: 1.5 turns out

Low Speed Compression: 11 clicks out

Rebound: 9 clicks out

50 Hours On The 2022 KTM 250 SX-F

We have been hammering down a lot of motos on the 2022 KTM 250SX-F before it has to make its way back to the KTM offices to make way for the 2022.5 KTM 250 Factory Edition. There are still some consumers out there that are concerned about KTM’s durability and wonder if you can trust the Austrian machine over the course of several hard hours. Well to try and give some real world feedback, we have purposely been a little “over abusive” on this orange test steed to see if in fact we can trust the KTM engineers and their R&D department. We have just went over the 50 hour mark last week and have accumulated over 20 of those hours in the past four weeks on rough test tracks near our home. This KTM 250 SX-F has seen its fair share of the testing workload on many parts, accessories and product evaluations in its 50 hour lifespan. A 50 hour engine, on my scale, is like a 75-80 hour engine on a regular blue collar average weekend racer/rider. If you’re looking for shiny new photos of the 2022 KTM 250 SX-F you came to the wrong place. This thing is a work horse and not a show pony. Below are some of the key points I wanted to share with you current 2022 KTM 250 SX-F owners and maybe potential KTM buyers about our test unit. 

2022 KTM 250 SX-F:

 Engine Hours 50.1 

Tires: Dunlop MX3S/MX33 13.5/12.5 PSI 

Bars: Pro Taper Evo Suzuki Race Team Cut to 805mm

Grips: Pro Taper 1/3 Waffle Race Cut

Levers: Stock

Throttle: ZRT Grey Cam 

Rider Triangle: Stock

Gearing: 14/52 Sunstar Sprockets/DID ERT3 Chain

Engine Mods: None

Muffler: FMF 4.1/ Akrapovic Evolution 

Engine Oil: Blud Racing 10/40 Pro Series

Fuel: Renegade SX4+

Holeshot Device: WC

Graphics/Seat: Throttle Syndicate

Suspension: REP Racing Test Fork/Shock Spec #AK4

Air Filter: Twin Air Power Flow Kit 

Engine/ECU Settings: KTM’s R&D department has done a good job with their ECU settings on the KTM 250 SX-F, but we were looking for more bottom end on this specific model when Aden races. Being in the B class out in California requires you to keep up with the Joneses so to speak so adding a little “meat” to the KTM 250 SX-F wasn’t off the table. When you first get your KTM 250 SX-F and ride her it may feel very tight, sluggish off the bottom end, slight de-cel popping, as well as have more engine braking than we would like. Some of these symptoms die off after 8-10 hours of riding time on the engine. We used the stock ECU box/settings for the first 18 hours and we had some of those symptoms until around hour 9, then the de-cel popping went away and also some of that sluggish feeling coming out of corners. So does that mean you current 2022 KTM 250 SX-F owners are screwed? No. I just wanted to make it clear that this bike is very much rideable in stock form without a ECU re-flash. 

If you DO NOT want to spend the money on a Vortex ignition you can get your standard box re-flashed from Jamie at Twisted Development. Jamie has a better ECU setting for you current orange brigade riders out there. If you DO want to spend the extra $800.00 or so, the Vortex is simply magic for this engine. The engine delivery still remains so smooth yet easier to ride and increases the use of second and third gear. Going to the Vortex ignition gives you the option to ride with less effort while decreasing your lap times because the workload is simply less with the power character the Vortex gives the orange machine. I repeat you DO NOT have to have the Vortex to make the KTM 250 SX-F engine better! You can save some money and re-flash your current ECU, but if you want the most out of the engine without busting into it, this Vortex is really good!

What about durability once you go with a Vortex ignition? I have yet to have any durability issues with going to an aftermarket ECU that is correctly mapped from either said company above. It is one of the only modifications you can make to your machine that will make a noticeable difference in power without sacrificing the lifespan of your engine. 

What about clutch life? Aden is not really hard on clutches, but we literally can go over 30 hours on one clutch and when we did check it, it was still good! At the 50.1 hour mark we have only installed one clutch. We change out the engine oil every 4 hours and use a 10/40 Synthetic by Blue Lubricants. We also DO NOT notice slippage under load when the engine gets hot. The hydraulic clutch is something that we have come to appreciate more through the years and although the engagement of the KTM is a little on/off feeling, the overall performance of the clutch itself is amazing under heavy race oriented type stress. 

What about engine maintenance? I am not going to sit here and tell you I am some great mechanic and I am busing out valve clearance checks every 20 hours. We did check the valve clearance after 25 hours and they were within spec and I haven't checked them since. Like I mentioned above I have used Blud Racing 10/40 in this bike and have changed the oil every 4 hours. I am usually a 2-3 engine hour oil change kind of guy, but the KTM has held the rigorous amount of riding time that I have put on it.

Chassis/Suspension: During the course of the 50 hours we spent on this machine, we decided to stick with the stock WP suspension, but had it valved from REP/AEO. We wanted to stick with the AER fork and see if we could get it comfortable enough and not have to resort to a spring conversion. The setting that Mark at REP provided us gave more front end feel through the fork/front end and was more consistent throughout the day than the stock setting. My 135 pound son had a chance to ride with some WP Pro Components set up for him, but he actually chose the AER set up because he liked how much comfort he had versus the Pro Component fork. The REP valved shock had better high speed compression feel on heavy loads and the combination of the new valving and REP knuckle/link provided more rear wheel traction than the stock set up we used before this REP setting. If you're a weekend warrior just looking for more comfort on your KTM 250SX-F, there is hope that you can get that with some re-valving though REP. 

Gearing: We have ran the stock gearing as well as tried going to a 14/52 and found out that we like the 14/52 set up to get some extra low end snap as well as third gear roll on out of corners. We like the 14/52’s traction character out of corners, but you must realize that you can shift a little earlier with this gearing to feel that extra rear wheel traction. With the stock gearing, the KTM 250 SX-F kind of forces you to use second gear longer, but with the added tooth, it can help you third gear luggers. Give it a try if you're a third gear kind of rider. We also only have changed the Sunstar sprockets/DID ERT 3 chain once during this 50 hour period! 

Handlebars/Grips: My son and I are both crossbar-less type of riders so we chose the Pro Taper EVO Race Team bend that just came out from Pro Taper. The Race Team bend is a 810mm width, 91mm height, 49mm rise, 52mm sweep and is a great flat that keeps you over the front of the machine. We can get over the front of the bike better out of corners, but our elbows are up a little more naturally and we feel better when standing on the bike. If you're a crossbar kind of guy, the Pro Taper Fuzion bar has a EVO-ish flex character and will not feel as rigid as some other crossbar brands. Also note that the stock lock-on-grips/throttle tube also can get heavy after around 20 hours, so check your plastic tube for wear. The plastic on the lock on grips can get rough inside and make your throttle pull hard. If you ware looking to put standard grips on go with a ZRT aluminum throttle as it will make your throttle so buttery you will never want to go back to a plastic tube again. Plus the ZRT is the toughest aluminum throttle tube we have ever come across. 

Air Filter: Buy yourself a KTM 250SX two-stroke air filter cage because they come without a backfire screen and then go get a Twin Air filter. Just doing this little modification gave me some added RPM response which helps the KTM feel even lighter in tight sections of any given track. 

Wheels/Tires/Axle Blocks: You will have to check your sprocket bolts and spokes religiously, but if you use a little blue Loctite on your sprocket bolts you should be good. You can also increase the rear wheel traction by going with some Works Connection Elite axle blocks or Ride Engineering axle blocks that will eliminate the fixed left side axle block from your axle. This allows both axle blocks to float under heavy load (acceleration) and will not give you a binding rear end (harsh) feel. It sounds minimal, but makes a difference on acceleration chop. You can also run your wheel a little farther back if you're changing your gearing to get some added straight line stability that the KTM can use at times. If there is a weak point to the KTM, it is the wheels. We have blown out two rear wheels in the past six months so maybe upgrading to a better wheel set could be in your future if you’re slightly hard on your wheels because you over jump or under jump a lot.

Rear Brake Pedal Spring: The stock one sucks! We break the brake pedal spring every 4-6 hours! You either are going to have to load up on brake pedal springs or go with a CRF450R brake pedal spring with the rubber over it (condom style). This helps with the vibration that the spring experiences, so it doesn't break. Orrrr, simply order a FAAST Co. rear brake return spring and you’re golden.

Failures: 

Two Rear Wheels broke (spokes ripped out)

One Top Valve Cover Gasket/Grommet leaked

Three Rear Brake Pedal Springs

One Rear Brake Pedal Brake Tip Broke Off (Rock in a rut impact)

Linkage nut fell off

2022 Kawasaki KX450 Baseline Settings

Engine Feel: Just in case you were trying to decide on if the 2022 KX450 is better than the 2021, don’t stress because it’s the same bike! The 2022 engine character has great connection to the rear wheel, a smooth linear power that is smooth with snappy low end response, yet never seems like it has too much mid to top end, but does have more engine braking than a couple other 450 in its class. The mid range has a nice amount of meat and the smoother pulling power of the top end/over-rev is noticeable on longer straights or up hills. If you’re thinking about which coupler to use, (without changing the mapping) try the black coupler as it will help smooth out the low end rpm response (just know that if your KX450 is too touchy down low for you then this attached map below is the ticket). The KX didn’t lose mid to top end pulling power with the black coupler (compared to the stock green one) and I could ride the KX450 more aggressively through corners with the smoother power. However, if you have access to a KX Calibration Tool then see below for a map that helps low end as well as helps lengthen mid-top end.  

Weight Feeling (Chassis): I am able to lay the KX450 down with ease (initial lean) and cut down under a blown out rut fairly easy but once in the rut the KX still feels long. I also get a little twitch on de-cel (which can be fixed with a fork spring change), but it wasn't a horrible or un-easy feeling. Straight line stability is still the same straight and arrow Kawasaki feel that you expect, but with added traction. The frame absorption is the best attribute of this machine and other manufacturers should take notice of how well this KX450 feels when the track goes to crap. The whole bike feels friendlier than any other 2021 machine on square edge and the only other one that comes close in comfort is the Yamaha YZ450F. 

Suspension Comfort: The 2022 Kawasaki is so much more balanced than previous generation KX450’s and I was able to set the front end down where I wanted to without feeling like the front end was going to snap my wrists. The fork has tons of comfort, but is also too soft/low on de-cel for my liking. At tracks with hills or sizable jumps, the fork was too low in the stroke and bottomed too many times. Going stiffer on the compression only hurt de-cel bump comfort, so I settled on going slower on the rebound, which helped some. The shock is soft as well on slap down landings, but going eight clicks (two full turns) in helped keep the rear end up and thus helps wallow feeling. This setting will get you by on most tracks, but do yourself a favor and read the recommended suspension settings below for optimal balance of the KX450. The recommended settings below will help with hold up and ride comfort.

Cornering/Chassis: The 2022 KX450 is a “neutral” cornering machine. I am able to get more rear wheel bite than a Yamaha YZ450F, but I am still able to turn on the front end fairly well. I had a rear end steering tester with me when we did the intro and he mentioned how well it backed into corners still. I thought front end bite from area 2-3 of corners was still acceptable, but got even better with a heavier fork spring. I say “area 2-3” because the KX450 still does have a slight vague feel on entrance of corners, so increasing spring rate prevents the front end from diving, which in turn prevents your front tire from pushing on entrance. 

Rider Triangle: The footpeg to seat to handlebar ratio is great! The seat is flat, which puts me more on top of the machine and the Renthal 839 Fatbar makes the bike feel very friendly for a wide range of riders. 

 Brakes: Do yourself a favor and get a 2021 KX250 rear disc and hanger. The 250mm disc is too grabby and really screws up my corners/braking points. The rear end will slide when I don't expect it and this causes my corners to be herky/jerky. Go back to the 240mm disc on the 21 KX250 and live life happier. 

2021 KX450 Suspension Settings:

After almost 25 hours on the 22 KX450 these are the best settings for a wide range of riders. This setting is based around comfort and will give the rider the most confidence. Use this set up until you get a re-valve. Once you re-valve, use recommended suspension tuners spec. 

Fork: 

 Spring Rate .51 N/m Spring (.50 N/m is stock) *If B level rider and over 200 pounds .52 N/m springs are also a great option*

 Oil Level: Standard

 Compression:10-11 clicks out

 Rebound Range: 9-10 clicks out

 Fork Height: 3 mm

 Shock:

 Spring Rate: .54 N/m (190 pounds or over, try .56 N/m)

 Low Speed Compression: 13 clicks out

 High Speed Compression: 1 1/8 turns out

 Rebound: 10 out

Coupler/ECU Setting:

The engine on the 2022 KX450 in stock is smooth off the bottom and easy to ride, but does have a little dip from mid to top, so I created this map to help fill that dip in and make it pull slightly longer. You will notice even more of a linear (more control at low RPM) pull down low without any jerky feeling through corners. With this map installed it helped settle the chassis down through long ruts and improved overall traction feel. In the testing world we call this "cornering stability". With this map installed it helped the 2022 KX450's cornering stability, especially on intermediate terrain. You can use any coupler with the Kawasaki FI Calibration Tool to create this map. 

Aftermarket Mufflers: I have tried a lot of mufflers with the KX450 and to me the FMF and PC have the most noticeable change to the engine character of the KX450. As ugly as the stock muffler is, it’s a very good muffler for a broad range of power delivery. However, when you go to a FMF muffler, do yourself a favor and look at this article on how to make it rubber mounted. https://www.keeferinctesting.com/offroad-testing/2020/10/8/how-to-save-your-subframe-on-your-2019-2021-kawasaki-kx450. 

 We have broken a subframe tab because the FMF is a solid mount system, not rubber mounted. This doesn’t necessarily mean that the subframe tab will not break if it’s rubber mounted as we have broken the tab on the subframe with the stock muffler as well (which is rubber mounted).

2022 Yamaha YZ250F GYTR High Performance Engine Kit

There aren’t very many OEM manufacturer accessory divisions out there that offer actual engine mods for their machines. Oh wait, there isn’t one! The only manufacturer that offers anything engine related is Yamaha. KTM used to have KTM Factory Services but that has been shut down yet GYTR is still going strong with a long heritage in the off-road world. I recently had the chance to test GYTR’s newest high performance YZ250F engine kit (which pulled me around to win the Keefer Vs. Keefer Part Two race) and thought why not dive into what is involved in the kit as well as how it differs from the stock 2022 YZ250F on the track. The 2021-2022 YZ250F GYTR kit comes with fully assembled cylinder head, high compression piston, air filter airflow kit, OEM gasket kit and a pre-programmed Vortex ECU for 3,199.00. GYTR also offers cams for this kit for an additional $699.99.

Durability Criteria: 

Being that I used to work for the GYTR YPAD division (Yamaha Parts Accessory Division) in the early 2000s I have had some experience with their criteria for the durability of these types of engine parts. When the engineers decide on a power that they are satisfied with on the dyno, the Yamaha R&D team will build up a machine and proceed to take it out to a few tracks to see if it is in fact better than the stock. Not only will it have to be better, but also make sense for the cost right? After the decision is made that the engine kit is deemed worthy for resale, the durability begins. Japan usually requires all accessory parts endure 1000km of life before it can be passed for quality control. I have been a part of other manufacturers durability testing procedures and have found out that none (so far) have been as detailed as Yamaha’s. So the good news is that when you purchase a GYTR engine performance kit, you’re getting something reliable and tested. 

On The Track:

I will say that when I first hopped on the GYTR YZ250F, I wasn’t blown away by the power. That is until I rode a stock YZ250F back to back. Once I rode the stock YZ250F is when I appreciated what the team over at GYTR did with this kit. I will not say the high performance engine kit has more low end RPM response as I think the stock YZ250F still has more initial response down low, but coming out of corners is when you’ll be able to appreciate the GYTR power. You can shift later in each gear and even allows this old guy to ride third gear in more corners than the stock YZ250F. This is huge especially for a rider that is coming off of a 450 which might have too much power, yet still wants to ride his 250F like a 450F. The stock YZ250F is one of the few 250F’s in class to allow some third gear cornering, but with the GYTR kit it can increase that window even more. Mid range pulling power is more meaty gives you the feeling of more torque in soft conditions. The GYTR engine feels freer revving than the stock engine and also has less engine braking which helps the chassis on rough tracks. Top end pull is not a huge difference over stock but you can feel the GYTR kit pull harder on top with a little more over-rev per gear than the stock engine. 

Things I Would Like To Improve: 

Even though I tested the GYTR High Performance Engine Kit with stock cams I think this engine could benefit from a longer top end/over-rev feel, which the GYTR cams can provide (tested them on last year’s engine). This engine likes to be short shifted, which is great for lugging or lazy riders, but for faster B class kids that love to rev each gear out extremely far, I still think the KTM and Honda have better top end over-rev capabilities. The GYTR engine package will reward you if you short shift which took me a while to pick up on, but once I did, this YZ250F was a weapon! I also would like to try the GYTR/FMF muffler system with the insert in, instead of with it out (like I tested). The insert in can give some added back pressure, which can give me some added low end rpm response. The FMF system could use some more bottom end and that could be the reason why the GYTR YZ250F lacks some of that low end RPM response. 

Is It Worth The Money?:

That is the reason why we do these articles and videos right? Of course this question is only good for people that are actually interested in doing some engine work. Do you NEED this kit if you just want to race local and have fun? Absolutely not! However, if you want to get a little more serious against your 450cc’d vet buddies or maybe want to get a little more competitive in the amateur racing world, to me this kit is worth the money. Going to some private engine builders to build your motor can cost anywhere between 2500-5000. Along with that, your bike will be down for at least a couple weeks, so getting a complete high performance engine kit that is tested in house at Yamaha is worth the money in my opinion. I do wish the GYTR engine kit gave some more top end/over-rev, but I am pretty sure you can get more of that with some cams and another map on the Vortex ECU. 

2022 Yamaha YZ250F Baseline Settings

The 2022 Yamaha YZ250F doesn’t have the changes on paper that you would like, but the bLU cRU did do some minor updates to help try and lighten the YZ250F up some. Yamaha lightened up the hub, sprocket, chain and they installed a 2.15 rear rim (instead of the 1.85 2021 rear rim), as well as went to Dunlop MX33 tires with a 110 rear tire in stock trim. The fork’s low speed damping was increased to try and create less pitching off throttle and there you have it. The 2022 YZ250F. Here are a couple baseline settings to try out on your own in case you might be lost.  

Suspension:

The 2022 suspension feels firmer (compared the 2021), holds up more in the stroke slightly, yet still has that KYB free feeling movement (unlike a Showa feel where it moves less with a dead feel) that is very active on the track. That active feel translates into a a front/rear end that follows the ground well under small chatter and bigger/softer braking bumps. I did have to go a little firmer still once broken in on both ends for my style of riding, but it didn’t take long at all to feel comfortable. Track Toughness of the 2022 Yamaha YZ250F is as good as the 21, but if you’re north of 185 pounds you might want to drop in a set of heavier fork springs 48N/mm fork springs and live happy! 

Fork:

Spring Rate: 47 N/mm (Over 185 use 48N/mm springs)

Height: 4mm

Compression: 8 clicks out 

Rebound: 10 clicks out 

Shock:

Spring Rate: 56 N/mm

Sag: 104mm

High Speed Compression: 7/8-1 turn out

Low Speed Compression: 8 clicks out

Rebound: 9 clicks out 

Mapping: 

If you’re looking for less engine braking and/or more mid-top end pull here are two maps to choose from.

Mid-Top End Map

FMF 4.1 Titanium Slip On Muffler System: Although the stock exhaust is VERY hard to beat in terms of performance, it can get a little raspy once you hit around 10 hours. Yes, that quick! The FMF 4.1 slip on system gives the bike a throaty tune and a factory look, but with a tunable engine character. We have found that running the system without the spark arrestor insert takes away too much back pressure, which causes the YZ250F to lose some of that bottom end power we come to love out of this bike. We prefer the system with the spark arrestor installed because it helps keep most of the stock bottom end, keeps the YZ250F quieter the bike, and can even make it legal to ride on the trails. Going to this will NOT give you more bottom end than the stock system, but you will get more mid range pull as well as more top end. Not to mention a much better muffler pitch!

2022 Honda CRF450R baseline Settings

Even though the Honda hasn’t changed much for 2022, Showa as well as Honda worked on creating more hold up from the suspension. This lead us to create another baseline setting for you 2022 owners. The ECU has also been updated, but there is still some lean pop on de-cel so we are currently working/looking into one type of stock ECU reflash to see if we can get it better. However, compared to the 2021, the ECU is much cleaner upon throttle delivery and has more connection to the rear wheel. We also took it a step further this year and matched up some traction control settings to map settings for you to try at your local track. There are two combinations below that we think can help you lower your lap times and make big red easier to ride. As always if you have questions about your new Honda, we will always try to help, so email us at kris@keeferinctesting.com if you have some thoughts/questions.  

Optional Suspension Setting: 

The stock suspension for 2022 is a firmer feel and to us that is a step in the right direction. However it still might be too soft for you if you’re anywhere over 180 pounds. Honda has a 5.0 N/m fork spring that is adequate for most, but even with the having more low speed compression damping for 2022, once broken in it might be a tad soft for riders north of 180. Out back the 54 N/m shock spring is a little soft, but the 2022 valving is much better on high speed compression so going to a stiffer spring was not warranted for my 170 pound frame. If you’re over 190 pounds then I would recommend going to a 56 N/mm spring with the correlating clicker adjustments. This will help the Honda from riding too low in the stroke under acceleration when you’re pushing 200 pounds. However, with the 54 N/mm spring and the 2022 valving the CRF450R has more rear wheel traction and added comfort on small chop so trying the clicker adjustments set to the 54 N/mm spring is worth a shot first. Remember, if you’re near 200 pounds and not into spending more money on a re-valve at this time, simply get some heavier springs and try this setting: 

 Fork: (170-200 pounds)

 Spring Rate: 51 N/mm

 Height: Flush

 Comp: 10 out

 Rebound: 12 out

Shock: (170-180 pounds)

 Spring Rate: 54 N/mm 

 L/S Comp: 11 clicks out

 H/S Comp: 2 1/2 clicks out

 Rebound: 9-10 clicks out

 Sag: 105mm

Shock: (180-200 pounds)

 Spring Rate: 56 N/mm 

 L/S Comp: 13 clicks out

 H/S Comp: 2 3/4 clicks out

 Rebound: 11 clicks out

 Sag: 105mm

Torque Specs:

I still prefer going to these torque specs on the 2022 Honda CRF450R. I spent a few more days experimenting with torque settings on the 2022 and have came up with the spec chart below. What these updated torque specs do for you is slightly improve the bump compliancy and front/rear wheel traction of the 2022 CRF450R. This isn’t a cure all, but you will feel a little extra comfort in your red ride. If you don’t see a torque spec on a portion of the bike that is not below, don’t freak out, just go with the stock recommended torque spec. I experimented with a lot of different parts of the chassis with torque specs and the bolts/nuts below make the mosts difference on the red machine.  It may not seem like much, but it’s the little things on this bike that can make the Honda chassis FUN for the average guy. Out of all of the machines that I have experimented with on torque settings, this bike reacts the most to it, so pay attention to your nuts/bolts on your Honda! Follow the torque spec sheet below and make sure to blue Loc-Tite the bolts/nuts on each to ensure you have no issues down the road.

Rear Axle Nut (Qty. 1): 

Stock: 128 Nm

Updated Spec: 120 Nm

Fork Top Clamp Pinch Bolts (Qty. 4):

Stock: 22 Nm

Updated Spec: 19 Nm

Fork Bottom Clamp Pinch Bolts (Qty. 4):

Stock: 20 Nm

Updated Spec: 16-17 Nm

Swingarm Pivot Nut (Qty. 1):

Stock: 88 Nm

Updated Spec: 81 Nm

Front Engine Hanger Plate Bolts (Qty. 4):

Stock: 26 Nm

Updated Spec: 24 Nm

Front Engine Hanger Plate Nut (Qty. 1):

Stock: 54 Nm

Updated Spec: 51 Nm

Cylinder Head Hanger Bolt (Qty.2):

Stock 54 Nm

Updated Spec: 51 Nm

Cylinder head Hanger Plate Bolts (Qty 4):

Stock: 32 Nm

Updated Spec: 29 Nm

Shock Absorber Upper Mounting Bolt (Qty. 1): 

Stock: 44 Nm

Updated Spec: 42 Nm

Traction Control/Map Switch: 

This is something I did not play with much the last couple years on the Honda CRF450R. Sometimes I get caught up with the chassis of this motorcycle so much that I forget to play with the other options Honda has to offer the rider. Below are a couple combinations of map/TC settings for you to try on certain types of tracks. 

Track Type/Condition: Afternoon when track still has some traction available, but also has loose dirt on top with acceleration chop in ruts. 

Map 1/TC1

With the map switch set to 1 and TC on 1 this gave me more control of the machine under throttle when track was going away slightly. Most of the time these conditions happened around lunch time (if track was open at 9AM) when lines were formed and ruts were established. With the TC on 1 through choppy ruts it allowed for more rear wheel traction and a less harsh feeling from the rear of the machine. I honestly wouldn’t rule this setting out in the morning when lines weren’t established and you need to find some traction on freshly tilled/watered dirt. If you’re looking to keep the low end excitement but gain just a hair less of throttle response try the map 1/TC 1 combo.

Track Type/Condition: Late afternoon when track is beat up with blown out lines with all the good traction pushed off, or the dirt has dug down far enough to where it’s hard pack.

Map 1/TC3 

With the map switch still on map 1 and TC now on 3 this gives the rider a much more heavier low end chugging feel (almost like a long rod feeling) with less excitement on 2nd-3rd gear roll on. Some of you may ask why not just put it on map 2 with TC on 1-2, but to me that combo gas me less connection from my throttle hand to rear wheel. It almost made the bike feel much heavier than I like. With map 1/TC3 the Honda CRF450R gave me a good throttle to rear wheel feel without it feeling heavy in corners. I felt like I had more tire contact patch on lean, under loose/hard dirt and that gave me confidence to roll throttle on earlier exiting corners. 

2022 Yamaha YZ450F Baseline Settings/Tips

The 2021 and 2022 Yamaha YZ450F’s are almost identical minus some suspension valving changes (increased mid-high speed damping), lighter rear wheel with a spoke lacing pattern that is a 3X not a 2X, lighter sprocket, as well as a lighter chain. For a bike that used to get some shade thrown its way in the professional motocross racing world, this Yamaha YZ450F is now the 2021 AMA Motocross Champ! This bike also has treated me really well in my racing goals the past couple years. I have won a Loretta Lynn’s title as well as a Vet World Championship on the exact same machine and haven’t had a huge maintenance list to go through.

Is the Yamaha YZ450F the slimmest bike? No. Does it corner the best? No. Does it have the best cockpit? Absolutely not. I am the type of rider who would rather have stability than the best cornering machine! The Yamaha is a great middle of the road machine that does everything good. Below are some key settings, as well as mods, that I have rolled over into my 2022 YZ450F since I picked it up a while ago. These can help you drop your lap times, give you more comfort on the track and make a good bike, GREAT!

Suspension:If you’re sticking with stock valving the 2022 Yamaha YZ450F’s suspension, just know that Yamaha did some significant changes to the valving to get some extra hold up. This means that the baseline settings from 2021 are null and void. Yes, the fork is still slightly soft (once suspension is broke in) at times under hard braking at speed. Going slower on the action, stiffening the compression, as well as lowering he fork in the triple clamp really helps the whole bike remain planted around the track (with less low front end feel coming into corners). The comfort that the KYB SSS fork/suspension has is unmatched and the track toughness it provides makes your life so much less stressful on set up. This setting below will work for most riders ranging from 165-195 pounds with no gear.

Fork: 

Height: 3mm

Compression: 7 clicks out

Rebound: 9-10 clicks out

Shock:

Sag: 104mm

Low Speed Compression: 8 clicks out

High Speed Compression: 7/8 turns out

Rebound: 10-11 clicks out

Important Spec Adjustments: 

Chain Slack: 55-60mm

Recommended Torque Settings: These recommended torque settings help the Yamaha's chassis be slightly more compliant over braking bumps/acceleration bumps.

Front Axle 80 ft. Lbs.

Pinch Bolts 15 ft. Lbs. 

Rear Axle Nut: 85-90 ft. Lbs. 

Engine/Power Tuner App: I have tried several maps on the YZ450F, but have always came back to the two below. The stock engine has a lot of bark (rpm response) from 0-10% throttle opening and for the tracks that we have out here (on the west coast) it’s too much at times. For you east coast riders try the “TP Magic Map1” as that should be enough bottom to mid range delivery to get you out of that soft soil, yet keep it manageable/linear to hold onto for a 20 minute moto (YES, I AM JEALOUS OF YOUR DIRT!). For all the rest of you, try the TP 3.0 map (on Keeferinctesting.com) as that is the map that I use 80% of the time. The linear/easy to roll on throttle delivery along with the longer pulling power that this map has makes it a tractor around the track. This makes connection to the rear wheel much more apparent with this TP version. Yes, these maps will also work on your 2019 YZ450F, so give them a try.…

Seat: If there is one problem area of the Yamaha it is the seat. The seat still breaks down quickly and can feel clapped out. This makes you feel like you're riding “in” the Yamaha and not on top. I am sticking with a standard height/density GUTS foam which is actually a little firmer than the OEM foam. The foam density will not break down as much as the OEM foam. 

MX3S or Pirelli MX32 Mid-Soft Front Tire: Yamaha will not want to hear this, but I feel the Yamaha corners better with a Dunlop MX3S or a Pirelli MX32 Mid-Soft front tire rather than the stock MX33. If you’re having trouble with initial lean into corners, get yourself a Dunlop MX3S or Pirelli MX32 Mid-Soft front and thank me later.

Gearing:I tried a 13/50 gearing set up for all you novice riders, but it didn't work as good as the stock 13/49 set up. The stock gearing is just fine for 90% of tracks because the Yamaha’s engine has so much torque that it can pull third gear. Yes, even for you novice riders! Third gear is that “lugable” that you will not stall through corners, just make sure to cover the clutch lever.

Triple Clamps/Offset: The Yamaha YZ450F doesn't need aftermarket triple clamps nor does it need an offset change (but I am trying some aftermarket clamps soon to see if it causes any rigidity). The rigidity balance that the stock clamp has is a blend of comfort and performance that is hard to find with aftermarket clamps. Still having a hard time in corners? Don’t purchase clamps yet, chill down, simply go to a 102mm shock sag setting or go back to a fork height of 5mm. I suggest trying one or the other, not both at the same time. This keeps balance as well as keep the superb bump absorption of the chassis/clamps. Some other machines accept aftermarket clamps better than others, but this Yamaha has a lot of comfort/performance with the stock clamp. Don’t go backwards on your set up by purchasing parts you don’t need!

Muffler: I go back and forth between the Pro Circuit, FMF and Akrapovic muffler systems if I am not running the stock muffler. All these systems are smoother off the bottom end and pull more in the mid range than the stocker. I like this because it can actually calm the chassis down a little on acceleration bumps. There is nothing wrong with the stock system, but if you MUST get an aftermarket system go with one of these two brands. If you can find one these days! Tough to do right now. 

Vortex ECU: I haven’t been that vocal about this mod because it’s so hard to justify spending $800-1000 bucks on an ignition when the Yamaha ECU/Power Tuner app is so good. However after working on a ton of settings on the standard ECU, I decided to try the Vortex to see if I could make the power broader versus the stock ECU. I have worked on settings with Chad from XPR and I can say that we have spent many days at the track trying to make the Yamaha not spool up so quick (light or short crank/rod feel). You might be asking yourself, “what the hell is spool up”? The Yamaha has a quick revving light crank feel and sometimes that feeling can cause lack of rear end traction when exiting corners. The rear tire can light up when trying to exit corners under hard acceleration and that can get tough to manage at the end of a long moto. Now this is great when traction is high and the dirt is deep, but once the track gets rough, this Yamaha can be too much to handle compared to a KTM or Husqvarna. Adjusting the ECU via Power Tuner App helps a little, but for safety reasons Yamaha only allows certain parameters, but the Vortex ECU has a wider range of adjustment. Adding the Vortex ECU helps lessen engine braking and also gives the Yamaha a longer power character (almost a long rod feel). Now usually when you get less engine braking in any particular engine character you might feel a more free feeling engine, but with the mapping that Chad created, it makes the power more controllable with less pitching off throttle. The maps that we came up with help rear wheel traction out of corners, allows the rider to ride in third gear even easier, yet allows me to use second gear longer out of corners. Once I got a map (with the Vortex) that wasn’t too powerful, I have noticed an improvement in chassis feel when the track gets rough. The YZ450F can be pushed harder through bumpy conditions now that the delivery of the Yamaha is much broader with less engine braking. I would recommend anyone looking to get more connection as well as more power to get with Chad and ask for the Keefer World Vet map.

2022 Yamaha YZ250F First Impression

The Yamaha YZ250F doesn’t have that many changes to it for 2022. Yamaha lightened up the hub, sprocket, chain and they installed a 2.15 rear rim (instead of the 1.85 2021 rear rim), as well as went to Dunlop MX33 tires with a 110 rear tire in stock trim. The fork’s low speed damping was increased to try and create less pitching off throttle and there you have it. The 2022 YZ250F. Did it make a difference on the track? Here are some points to ponder before your purchase.  

Engine: The 2022 YZ250F still has the best torque in class (no change there), but it did lose just a little bottom end roll on power back in 2021. Don’t fret though as this engine is still vet friendly and very easy to lug around compared to the other more exciting top end/over-rev competitors (KTM,KX, CRF). The low to mid range pulling power is unmatched and if you’re coming off of a 2020 YZ250F, you’ll feel a free-er feel to the engine on de-cel on the 2021-2022, which makes for less pitching coming into corners. Second gear roll on is still very usable as is third gear lugability, but I was looking for more top end pull from second and third gear so I used the map shown below (Keefer Top End 1 Map). The Yamaha still has a loud note to the muffler and is still a little raspy. The muffler’s volume is increased, which does give it a deeper tone. 

Chassis: With the updated suspension on the 2022 the chassis actually feels more compliant in braking bumps leading into ruts, which makes it easier for the rider to pick his line and get on the gas sooner through area two of the corner. There is less pitching when on/off throttle and that leaves a sensation of an even more planted feel than the 2021 machine did. After a few days at a different tracks with the 2022 (compared to the 2021), I could really feel how much added front end bite I had compared to the 2021. When you ride the 2021 back to back with the 2022 you can feel like the chassis is firmer, yet has more comfort/connection to the ground. I suspect this has everything to do with the fork being firmer (see below). Usually when I get a firmer sensation from a chassis, I get some harshness/vibration/deflection, yet with the 2022 YZ250F I DO NOT get any of that. The firmer feel of the 2022 actually helps the Yamaha feel better planted to the ground on straight line stability. Riding the hills of Glen Helen back to back with the old model proved to me that the new Yamaha is catered to faster riders who want to push themselves some. 

Suspension: The 2022 fork feels firmer (compared the 2021), holds up more in the stroke, but isn’t as active as previous years KYB settings. That less active feel translates into a front/rear end that allows the rider to hit braking bumps harder without upsetting the chassis. There is some added bite to acceleration bumps when the fork is light in the stroke, but adding a little more rebound to the fork will help this feel. I still had to go a little firmer on both ends for my style of riding, but it didn’t take long at all to feel comfortable. Track Toughness of the 2022 Yamaha YZ250F is as good if not slightly better than the 2021. *See Spec Chart Below* 

Ergonomics: The ergonomics are still a little small for my liking. I would love for Yamaha to move their pegs down and back 5-10mm and I think it would really open the cockpit up more. I have tried aftermarket Raptor Titanium pegs on the Yamaha that move them down and back and it really helped me get on the balls of my feet more and feel relaxed when seated. I love the handlebar shape (Pro Taper SX Race equivalent) and the seat although nice at first, will break down around 20 hours. 

Baseline Suspension Settings: Below are the settings I think is a great starting point for riders between 160-190 pounds. This setting will get you a blend of the most performance as well as comfort. 

Fork:

Comp: 8-10 clicks out

Rebound: 10 clicks out

Height: 5mm or 3mm on faster sandier tracks

Shock: 

Sag: 104mm

L/S Comp: 9 clicks out

H/S Comp: 7/8 out

Rebound:  10 clicks out 

Maps: Below are the two maps that are loaded into my test bike that will give you a blend of what I feel this bike needs. 

2022 KTM 450 SX-F What Would You Do?

People always ask, “what would you do to your own bike”? Most of the time that question gets answered at the track or through email, but I thought I would put it out there for the world to see through my site. The KTM 450 SX-F is one of my favorite bikes to ride and race. In stock form the 2022 KTM 450 SX-F has an easier to ride smooth roll-on power than other 450s in its class and that lets the rider get on the throttle sooner through corners. The stock suspension is decent but needs some better lean angle front end traction, more consistency in the front end and more hold up (high speed compression) on the shock. Not all of my builds need to be extravagant, so I thought why not build a machine strictly on what the bike “needs” to make it even more fun to ride/race. Below is a parts list that I have created on parts that I strictly wanted personally on my 2022 KTM 450 SX-F. Since the 22 KTM 450 SX-F is virtually unchanged from the 2021 version, there is no need to do a FIRST RIDE! 

Parts List: 

 FMF 4.1 

Titanium 4.1 Muffler System 

Fmfracing.com

WP/REP Pro Components

CV Fork Re-Valve (REP Spec)

Trax Shock (REP Spec) 

1mm Longer Shock Shaft

REP Knuckle/Rods

Repsuspension.com 

KTM

Factory Split Clamps

Ktm.com

Vortex ECU

Mapped By XPR Motorsports

XPRMotorsports.com

VP Racing

MR PRO 6 HT

Vpracing.com 

Pro Taper

EVO SX Race Bend

Protaper.com

 Dunlop

MX3S Front Tire (80/100-21) 13.5 PSI

MX33 Rear Tire (120/80-19 12.5 PSI

Dunlopmotorcyclestires.com

ZRT

Zero Resistance Aluminum Throttle 

Zrtthrottle.com

Twisted Development 

Exhaust Flange

Td-racing.com 

Although this parts list isn’t long, it is distinguished. The REP Pro Component suspension done up by Mark at REP has given me a lot more confidence in pushing this KTM 450 SX-F in longer motos under rougher conditions. REP has some unique parts that go inside the WP Pro Components which they make personally. The Pro Component (Cone Valve) fork now gives me more lean angle grip through corners and added comfort when the track gets rougher. I couldn’t say that with the stock AER fork, because it wasn’t consistent like this spring pro component REP fork. I always had a problem with my KTM’s riding rear end low, but with REP’s longer shock shaft accompanied by their linkage system, my new Garage Build has a balance that I have never had before. To go with my newfound balanced suspension package, I turned to Chad at XPR Motorsports to tune a programmable Vortex ECU for more excitement down low yet keep that stock linear character that I like so much. With the ECU installed along with Twisted Development’s exhaust flange the KTM now has a controlled snap out of corners that gives me the ability to hop over bumps better as well as gives the KTM a lighter feel. Did I mention it revved out like a 250? Yeah, that too! An FMF 4.1 exhaust rounds out the engine package and lightens up the KTM by over a pound, so there’s your bling. Sneaky mods that are a must have to me are a ZRT throttle that gives you a smoother overall feel and is much stronger than the plastic lock on system that KTM comes stock with. The ZRT is controlled via a bearing and that bearing gives you an unbelievable easier to use throttle even when your throttle cables get worn (which they will do around the 20-hour mark). These changes that I made make a huge difference and gets me excited to ride even when I am tired from a long week of testing. I don’t need all the bling with my bikes to get me excited, I just need a bike that performs out on the track and allows me to ride faster. I am more of a function over fashion type of rider with my machines and this KTM is now my type of vet racing 450. 

On My Own Dime: 2022 Honda CRF450R

Rider: Chris “Checkerz” Riesenberg

Age: 35

Skill Level: Vet Int.

Weight: 300+

Bike: 2022 Honda CRF450R

Previous Bike: 2019 Honda CRF450R

 After over 8 years of absolutely zero riding, and basically 12 years since I could even be classified as a weekend warrior; Kris Keefer re-ignited the fire within all of us crazy moto guys.  An invite to the 2019 Keefer Tested 450 Shootout meant it was time to toss my leg over a bike again.  Two years later, I’m back at the track nearly every weekend tossing out air wheelies (mostly on purpose) and butt whips with my buddies and I even line up behind the gate every now and again.  Once upon a time I would show up and be the fast guy at the track, but these days I’ve been relegated to a mid-pack Vet Intermediate.  Enough about me, let’s dig into the real reason you clicked this… the 2022 Honda CRF450R.

Before we begin, I really have two benchmarks to compare the 2022 CRF450R to… my previous bike, the 2019 Honda CRF450R and my 2019 Keefer Shootout “winning” pick, the Yamaha YZ450F. My buddy owns one of these and we swap bikes often.  These are rapid reactions as I have only a couple of hours on the bike I purchased down at Storm Lake Honda right when they became available.

 BIGGEST IMPROVEMENT

I really enjoyed my 2019 Honda CRF450R, especially on stadium style and indoor tracks.  The more aggressive I was, the better the bike felt; but it was just simply rigid.  A really good suspension setting certainly helped, and I was shocked that the Works Chassis Lab intermediate mounts/hangers made a very noticeable difference… but it still was harsh.  

The 2022 Honda CRF450 has none of that rigidness and I can go noticeably longer before my arms are shot. It still delivers a very connected feeling to the terrain under you which is important to me as a rider who heavily relies on front end feel and steering.

THE SURPRISE

From reading the reviews, shootouts, and tests; I had a pretty good idea that the chassis rigidity was going to be much improved.  I basically was expecting a more comfortable version of my 2019 model.  What I found is what puts this bike in the running to potentially become the favorite bike I’ve ever owned.

Back in the 2019 Shootout, the Honda ranked 4thfor me.  I bought one because I have a great dealer relationship, and I’ve never ridden anything except Hondas since I was on CR80s back in the 90’s.  Number one for me was the Yamaha YZ450 because it had an amazingly smooth power delivery that made it easy to go fast and the suspension and chassis was connected yet comfortable.  Honda made huge strides with the chassis on the 2022, but the surprise was definitely the smooth, linear power delivery.

All last year I struggled with rutted turns on my 2019.  I would either turn out too soon or the front wheel would want to pop over the rut.  I could help this problem by running in the slower “vet” map, but then my big ass would have to work a lot harder to get the “oomf” out of corners to clear some of the bigger jumps.  I typically elected to run the standard map 1 and mostly thought my cornering issues were rider skill issues.

Alas, I hopped on the 2022 Honda CRF450R and immediately I was able to rail ruts like it was 2004 again and I was at the top of my game.  In fact, last night I drug a bar in a rut for maybe the first time in my life. It was amazing.  The 2022 Honda CRF450R goes where you want it to go, is nimble, and the power is predictable, smooth, and there is plenty of it.  I’m excited to ride it back to back with my buddy’s YZ450 to see which power delivery I prefer.  I’ll report back in a future update about that.

(NOTE:  This feedback is all standard map 1 without TC turned on.  I have enjoyed it so much I haven’t even had a chance to play around with the other settings… sorry Keefer, I’ll work on being a better tester!)

TO BE IMPROVED

Being a Honda rider my whole life, I haven’t spent a ton of time on a hydraulic clutch.   I’ve previously been pretty hard on clutches by feathering it instead of using throttle control.  The trend continued on my 2019 CRF450R because of trying to control the massive power hit in corners.  The times I’ve been on bikes with a hydraulic clutch, I was indifferent to having one or not. So far on the new Honda, I like the hydraulic clutch and I am tending to abuse it less.  Most of that I believe is due to the smooth power and the effectiveness of the clutch when you tap it.

So why is it under “to be improved?”  It isn’t the clutch action, but the lever.  From the showroom the lever came adjusted extremely far from the bar making it a reach even with my big hands.  It does have a good bit of adjustment to move the lever and I was able to move it in.  However, once adjusted in, the lever pulls to my fingers right at the engagement point. I had to compromise running it a bit further out to ensure I’m getting full engagement when pulling in the clutch. I’ve also always really loved the feel and shape of the Works Connection levers; however, they don’t make a clutch lever for the 2022 Honda CRF450R.

FINAL QUICK THOUGHTS

·       In my opinion, Honda continues to have the most comfortable rider triangle on the market.

·       The stock suspension is impressive.  I’m far from the ideal weight and normally avoid riding stock suspension at all costs.  Even hitting some fairly large jumps I’m not fully bottoming, and it has good comfort.  It definitely can use some work on the shock in the bumps for me, but that’s expected when you are over 100lbs heavier than the “ideal” weight for the setup.

·       All red is sexy.  It’s tough to beat the look of a Honda.  I take pride in creating unique looks for my bikes, but I found it super challenging to find a better look than stock.  We’ll see if I’m able to pull it off.

WHAT’S NEXT?

First off, I need to get suspension dialed in for me.  I’m way too heavy for stock suspension and it honestly makes me nervous riding with it. I’ll be swinging up to my local Race Tech Service Center, PDR Performance to get RT Springs and Gold Valves with personalized valving put in.

Beyond that, I don’t see a need for performance parts currently; so, I’ll be focused on “look good, ride good” elements.  I have plastic and graphics on order for a unique look and my Guts Racing seat cover just came in the mail.  No bike of mine is complete without bling from Works Connection, and we’ll add a handful of their protection goodies on there too.

Down the road, when it snows up here in Minnesota, I typically do a full overhaul on my bike. The goal is to put enough hours on my 2022 before then to justify doing just that over winter.  With the extra downtime I’ll likely send my forks out to SGB Racing to get some sweet looking coatings done, design a new plastic/graphics scheme, and will look into updating any weaknesses I find with the bike.

Top 5 Mods To The 2021 Suzuki RM-Z450

Just because the 2021 Suzuki RM-Z450 hasn’t changed doesn’t mean it still isn’t a viable option for a lot of riders out there. No, this isn’t the best bike off the showroom floor, but we put together what we feel is the TOP 5 MODS that will make the RM-Z450 a better motorcycle without completely draining your bank account.

Full Or Slip On Muffler System: The 2021 Suzuki RM-Z450 lacks a little bottom end pulling power, so in order to get a little more of that, the easiest thing to do is throw on a slip on or full muffler system. The PC slip on system didn't “wow” us for initial RPM response at first, but we installed the insert into the muffler and that helped back pressure enough to create some more throttle response. I liked the insert in for increased bottom to mid range throttle response without losing much top end pull. Installing this PC system helps with coming out of corners and also helps the Suzuki’s recovery time when in the wrong gear. With the stock system, the recovery time out of corners (if you were a gear too high) was embarrassing for a 450cc machine. It would be hard to get back into the meat of the power, forcing you to downshift and then immediately upshift, in order to get moving again quickly. With the PC slip on system the rider can fan the clutch lever a couple times (in the higher gear) and it helps get the Suzuki on down the track in a quicker manner. The PC system is a step in the right direction for bottom and mid range pull. It doesn’t help or negatively affect the top end at all. Yes, we would still like a little more to make us happy, but this is a mod that actually makes a difference. You can get a little more top end with the full system as the headpipe does help the top/over-rev of the yellow zook.

Ride Engineering Link: Simply installing the Ride Engineering link helped balance the RM-Z out on de-cel. If you’re running the stock suspension (valving/springs) this simple mod will help the RM-Z from wanting to transfer its weight towards the front end. The RM-Z450’s BFRC shock is known for unloading on de-cel (or riding high off throttle) and that can cause oversteer (knifing) on entrances of corners. Once you install the longer Ride Engineering link arms on the Suzuki it will settle down on de-cel and not pitch towards the front end as much. Running the sag at 107mm (fork height 4-5mm) with the link arm will alleviate some of your balance issues on the #RMaRMy. www.ride-engineering.com 

Vertex Hi Compression Piston Kit: Installing a 13.5:1 Vertex piston kit helped get some added excitement out of Suzuki’s bottom to mid range. Stock compression is 12.5:1 on the RM-Z450, but bumping the compression up to 13.5:1 allows for us to still run pump fuel safely. Where you will notice the added pull is on deeply tilled tracks or soft tracks that force the rider to get on the throttle harder. The Suzuki now feels a little “spunkier”, “livelier”, and “more fun” to ride. It also helps the chassis feel lighter when the track is tighter or when it gets rougher. It allows the rider to “pop” over bumps and makes the Suzuki feel a little more playful. For even better low end run this piston with VP T4 fuel or Renegade MX4. www.vertexpistons.com 

Hinson Clutch Kit (Basket, Pressure Plate, Inner, Fibers, Steels, Springs): The stock clutch fades quickly during motos and the clutch lever actuation (engagement) is very narrow. Once the Hinson clutch kit was installed the feel of the clutch was more positive and less vague. The Hinson also took the improved bottom end we got from the muffler/piston and transferred that power better to the rear wheel. The stock mushy lever feeling was gone and a slightly stiffer firm feel replaced it. However, it wasn’t a “Honda hard pull” feel, just a slightly firmer/more positive than the stock Suzuki pull. We have been riding with the Hinson clutch for over a few months now and that feeling hasn't changed one bit. We also have to change our clutch plates less as the Hinson set up doesn't get burned up as quickly. www.hinsonracing.com 

Optional Tuner Map: 

If you’re looking for a little more pulling power out of corners and more mid range meat from your 2021 RM-Z450, try the map out above on your MX Tuner App. This map works great with the PC system and some VP Racing T4 fuel..

Top 5 Mostly Inexpensive Mods To The 2021 Husqvarna FC450

The 2021 Husqvarna FC450 is a great machine that turns better than the KTM 450SX-F thanks in part to lower suspension, but also is also not as snappy as the KTM down low. The Husqvarna has a slightly more compliant feel with a more lethargic engine character. I wanted to see if I could make the handing traits better on the FC450 and give it a little more power! Here are 5 mods in no particular order that have helped me love the Husqvarna FC450 even more.

ZRT Throttle: How does it work? Simply put, there are two radial ball bearings on each end of the tube. One located inside the throttle housing and one on the end of the handlebars. This gives the throttle assembly an ultra smooth action and a claimed longer lifespan. Unlike the traditional FC plastic throttle tubes, the weight of the rider either pushing or pulling on the throttle will create some type of “friction”. The longer this goes on, the more the throttle and handle bars deteriorate and I have seen the right side of my bars look like slot car tracks in the past. Inserting two bearings within the throttle tube helps eliminate wear and friction, making your throttle assembly ultra smooth. So does it work? Yes, it does and sometimes too well! Sometimes! What I mean by “too well” is that it works so good that sometimes I get whiskey throttle when I get tired or have massive arm pump. This throttle is so smooth that it can be easy to grab a handful when sometimes you weren’t expecting to. However, once I got used to the buttery twist, my whiskey became less and less. This is by far the biggest difference I have felt from an aftermarket throttle tube.  The fears I had of cutting my bars and getting a different feel quickly went away when I rode out on the track. The 1/2 inch of bar loss was made up by the ZRT and my 802mm of bar width remained the same. Oh and trust me, if it didn’t feel the same, I would have felt it. Now when I go back to other test bikes that don’t have the ZRT tube on, it feels stiffer and harder to pull. We have been running the ZRT tube on our Husqvarna FC450 machine for almost 30 hours and have done nothing to it. I like that it feels as good as when we put it on and we have done zero maintenance to it.  The throttle cables on the KTM/Husqvarna kind of go to crap after 20 hours, so having the ZRT on there allows for an easier throttle pull even when your cables get worn. It is a good rule of thumb to change out your throttle cables on this bike around 25 hours or so.

      Of course there is a downside and the downside is that it costs $179.95! Now to most this is outrageous right? But to some, this costly part is worth it. For example, I would want a ZRT if I owned a KTM/Husqvarna/Gas Gas. Why? I am not a lock on grip guy, so I would normally go straight to an aftermarket throttle tube and instead of purchasing a cheaper plastic tube or an aluminum throttle, I would spend the money to get the ZRT. Yes, we know this is mostly an inexpensive mod article, but to us this think pays for itself. If you plan on keeping your bike for a few years or even if you get a new bike every year (albeit the same brand) this throttle tube is worth the cost. You can order your Zero Resistance Throttle at zrtthrottle.com. Any questions email me at kris@keeferinctesting.com

I have tested several exhaust flanges over the past several months and Twisted Development’s flange is not a gimmick! It actually helps low end pull, even if you have a stock muffler system!

Twisted Development Exhaust Flange: The Twisted Development exhaust flanges are shaped differently than the stock OEM flange, which can change the engine character of the FC450. I went through several during testing and found out a size/shape that can actually enhance the low to mid range power character. Compared to the stock piece the TD Performance flange will give you better throttle response through area 2-3 (mid to exit) of corners. Another advantage to me is that the TD flange helps pulling power out of corners as well and helps third gear lugability. The TD flange just helps the RPM’s pick up quicker, which in turn makes the KTM feel lighter when the track gets bumpy. There is no need to remap your ECU and it takes minutes to install.  

 The TD flange works with the stock headpipe/muffler system or any aftermarket system. I tried it on a stock muffler system as well as a full FMF system and with both, the TD flange helped in aforementioned areas. For $200.00 bucks, to me, it’s a great way to get a little more snap out of your FC450.

Ride Engineering One Piece Bar Mounts: Just looking at the stock FC450 bar mounts wrong can allow them to shift/bend. I have literally have come into the pits after a moto with my bars twisted and didn’t even crash. Yes, going to an aftermarket clamp like the Rockstar Edition clamp or a Ride Engineering Split Clamp helps with comfort so that should be one of the mods you should do if you’re looking for comfort, but that is also 700 bucks. The Ride Engineering One Piece bar Mount has a one-piece top that is designed to resist bending much better than the stock bar mount. Precision machined from aircraft quality aluminum, there is also a 6mm difference between the forward and back mounting positions. Ride Engineering also machines their own stainless steel posts that prevent over tightening, unlike some other competing brands that DO NOT use quality posts. This $104.95 all aluminum bar mount is sturdy enough to take some crashes, but doesn't cause any added rigidity problems. I would know because I am super sensitive to any added rigidity in my front end. The flex I got on the track (from the Ride mount) is as good as the stock flex and Ride Engineering’s rubber cones are also as flexible as stock. Ride does offer a variation of different elastomers/rubber cone compounds for a custom desired flex, just in case you need a stiffer or softer feel. The Ride Engineering Fourth Generation One Piece Mount has been refined over the years to weigh as little as possible, yet stay strong. The final product is a little heavier than stock, but for the added strength that I am getting, it’s worth its “weight” in gold. 

Air Filter Cage: OEM Part Number 50406016000. Using a two stroke filter cage without the screen will help low end RPM response and low end power delivery. For less than 20 bucks this is a great mod that actually does work! 

FASST Company Rear Brake Return Spring: I seem to break return springs on KTM’s/Husqvarna's all the time. You can use a stock Honda rear brake spring or just get the FASST Co. piece that completely removes it. The pedal resistance can be adjusted by how much preload is placed on the spring. The Return Spring Kit also minimizes debris from jamming the master cylinder as well as eliminating the stock tension return spring that attaches to the pedal. The Rear Brake Pedal Return Spring Kit consists of spring, spring bucket and nut. The spring bucket contains the spring as well as seals the master cylinder with the stock rubber dust boot. Installation takes 10 minutes and the return spring kit gives you more of a positive feel, without a lot of slop, not to mention it’s way more durable than the OEM Husqvarna or KTM rear brake pedal springs. For 20 bucks it’s an easy one time investment on something you may have to purchase every few months with the stocker. You can purchase or check out what they offer over at www.fasstco.com.

Other More Notable But More Expensive Mods That Are Effective:

FMF 4.1 Full Exhaust System (Increase Mid Range and Top End)

Vortex ECU Mapped By Chad At XPR Motorsports or Jamie at Twisted Development (More pulling power as well as response through the rpm range)

Dunlop MX3S Front Tire (Better front end lean angle grip than MX33)

VP T4 Race Fuel (Better throttle response and low end delivery)

REP Re-Valve Of AER Fork (More comfort through mid stroke and more predictable mid moto)

If you have any questions about these mods, please feel free to email away at kris@keeferinctesting.com

The Weekend Race Set Up: (5/28/21 Fox Raceway Amateur Day)

I always thought it would be cool to share the notes that I create after a race with the reader. 98% of the time I will input notes about each test bike/part I decide to race any given weekend. The part as well as the bikes change from time to time, but I always like to have a log of what I ran as well as the conditions of each race. Below is a brief breakdown on the bikes, parts as well as notes on how each performed or felt. Last weekend we brought two bikes to race (Yamaha YZ450F and KTM 250 SX-F). Below are two breakdowns of what was on each machine and how each machine fared in race conditions. Each time my son and I race, you can check back here to keeferinctesting.com every Tuesday (when we race the previous weekend) for “The Weekend Race Set Up”.

Aden Keefer (Age:15)

Track: Fox Raceway

Terrain: Very deep loam in AM with hard pack chop in ruts PM

Start: Dirt

Avg Lap Time: 1:58

Total Number Of Motos: 4 motos (Four 5 lap motos)

Weight At Time Of Race: 130 pounds w/o gear

2021 KTM 250 SX-F:

 Engine Hours 8.9

Mods/Parts: 

Tires: Dunlop MX3S/MX33 13.5/12.5 PSI 

Bars: Pro Taper Evo Suzuki Race Team

Grips: Pro Taper 1/3 Waffle Race Cut

Levers: Stock

Throttle: ZRT Grey Cam 

Rider Triangle: Stock

Gearing: 14/52 Sunstar Sprockets/DID ERT3 Chain

Engine Mods: Head Mod XPR Motorsports, Custom HC Piston, Vortex ECU Mapped By XPR/Akrapovic Slip On

Engine Oil: Blud Racing 10/40 Pro Series

Fuel: Renegade SX4+ 

Holeshot Device: WC

Graphics/Seat: Throttle Syndicate

Suspension: REP Racing Test Fork/Shock Spec #AK3

Air Filter: Twin Air Power Flow Kit 

Results: 2nd250B and 2ndSchoolboy 2 

Change Points/Notes: 

• Gearing went from 14/51 to 15/52 for the deeper/tilled dirt. Going to 14/52 helped with getting into third gear quicker off the gate.

• REP AER setting was set at 9.90 bar but we increased to 10 bar for hold up on de-cel due to very deep conditions. Once set at 10 bar the front end had better hold up but rider complained of deflection when fork was higher up in stroke (on throttle out of corners/initial stroke)

• Fork comfort on bigger braking bump was not as good through mid stroke with air at 10 bar, but hold up was necessary for balance of bike entering corners. 

• Shock felt low on accel after fork change so turned HSC in 1/8 turn. Helped balance on throttle out of corners. 

• FMF 4.1 system was installed for race and noticeably more bottom end/low end rpm response was noticed by rider over HGS system. FMF gave rider increased low end to pop over bumps and get out of corners more efficiently than HGS system. However, top end/over-rev was not as good as the HGS system. 

• 120mm holeshot device setting was retained for Fox Raceway start. Aden technique needs to improve off gate. 

Suspension Setting:

Fork: (Spec #REPAK3F)

C: 15 (softer clicker setting than last race) 

R: 11

Height: 5mm

Air: 10 Bar (stiffer air setting than last race)

Shock: (Spec #REPAK3S)

LSC: 12

HSC: 1.25 (stiffer air setting than last race)

R: 12

Sag: 104mm (higher setting than last race)

2021 Kawasaki KX450 Race Tech Suspension Review

The 2021 Kawasaki KX450 is one of the most stable machines in its class and the Showa suspension has a lot to do with that, but it’s slightly under sprung for most heavier or aggressive riders. Even when you go up in spring rate it only acts like a band aid in the long run. I have lived with and have been decently happy with just a spring rate change, but I needed to see if a valving change along with a spring rate change would help the KX450’s character even more on the track. I dropped off my Showa bump sticks to the guys at Race Tech and this is what I came away with after riding with the re-valved Showa set up on the green machine. 

Fork:

With the stock fork, I had too much diving on de-cel and when I went to a stiffer spring it helped with this problem, but I lost some of that nice comfort that the stock spring gave me. Race Tech installed their Gold Valve compression/rebound system with a 5.4 kg spring rate and it changed the way the bike felt in every off throttle situation. I now had better hold up on de-cel with increased bump absorption that didn’t feel harsh in my hands, like the stock valving with the optional 51 N/m spring rate. The KX450 now had a better lean in feel on area 1 (entrance) of corners that gave me more front end traction. I ran the fork height at 3mm at most tracks which gave me the balance of predictable straight line stability and easier cornering than the stock setting (with heavier fork spring). On rougher tracks like Glen Helen, I did have to back out the compression a couple clicks in order to get a little softer mid stroke feel with the Race Tech setting. Unlike the stock valving, the Race Tech Showa valved fork has a larger window of adjustment that could make me happier with minute clicker adjustments. I have always had a problem with the KX450 feeling long, which would hurt my cornering, but with the valving/spring rate change that Race Tech made, actually helped make the KX chassis feel better through corners. I need a balance of stability and ease of cornering with any machine I ride and although I prefer a slower turning chassis, the KX has always felt too lethargic/long in corners. This fork change has helped me corner the green machine better.  

Shock: 

I honestly never really had that much of an issue with the rear of the Kawasaki as the Showa shock had a blend of comfort and performance that gives the KX great rear wheel traction. Sometimes I get nervous about sending a a good standard shock setting off to a aftermarket suspension company, so to say I wasn’t a little skeptical that Race Tech could improve upon the stock shock would be a lie. I will say that going to their suggested 5.8 kg spring rate had me a little worried, but after a few laps I could see what Race Tech was after. Going to a slightly stiffer spring rate in the rear along with their Gold Valve system kept the KX450’s rear wheel traction, but now offered a flatter on/off throttle ride. I ran the sag at 103mm and the rear end felt low enough in braking bumps where it didn’t give me that “rear end kick”, that the stock shock sometimes had on bigger braking bumps. I did end up going a little stiffer on high speed and that helped keep the rear end up a little on steep jump faces. With the Race Tech re-valved shock I used the stock linkage ratio (unlike with the stock suspension where I ran a PC link) with better results under acceleration. The RT re-valve gave me more control on the initial part of the shock’s stroke, yet didn’t get too low under acceleration out of choppy ruts. It still might be a tad soft on g outs or flat landings so I may get Race Tech to create a second shock setting for me with a little more low speed compression.

Overall:

Race Tech knows how I like my bikes set up. This is the most important aspect when thinking about having an aftermarket company re-valve your suspension. Give them enough information on how you ride the bike as well as how aggressive you are and if you are a rear/front end steering rider. The more info about yourself you can give them the better the chance your first setting will be close enough to wear you can fine tune it once you get it back with just clickers. Race Tech did a great job on improving upon the stock suspension and proved to me that I was being nervous for no reason. Suspension settings are a personal preference as well as a feeling that can be hard to translate to others if you’re not used to correlating what you feel on the track to the suspension tuner. Listen to the Rocky Mountain ATV/MC Keefer Tested Podcast episode 229. Listening to that particular episode can give you enough info to arm yourself with enough knowledge to give Race Tech or any other suspension company the correct info about yourself and what you want when out on the track.

2021 KX450 Race Tech Suspension Settings:

Fork: 

 Spring Rate: 5.4 kg

 Compression: 14 clicks out

 Rebound: 10 clicks out

 Fork Height: 3mm

 Shock:

 Spring Rate: 5.8 kg

 Low Speed Compression: 11 clicks out

 High Speed Compression: 1 1/4 turns out

 Rebound: 9 out

If you have any questions about the KX450 or suspension my door is open to all my readers/listeners. We built this media testing outlet for you the consumer! Email me at kris@keeferinctesting.com if you need me.

Suspension Adjustment Guide

The one question I get sent to my email account the most is about suspension. Suspension is a tricky thing and can be somewhat difficult to figure out for the average rider. These descriptions below may seem redundant to all of you riders out there that are familiar with suspension, but I wanted to cater to the novice type rider, to get him or her familiar with adjusting their suspension to achieve the most comfortable ride possible.

 Adjustments are there for you to “customize” your set up and feel on the track. The compression and rebound damping adjustments on your machine are known as your “clicker” adjustments. Making the correct changes with your clickers will make your bike handle better and give you a friendlier riding experience. Clickers control the amount of oil flow that is allowed to bypass your suspension valving stack. They work like a fuel screw and can fine tune your suspension.

A shock has both low-speed and high-speed compression adjustments. The low-speed adjuster controls the damping at low shock speed velocities like rolling whoops and acceleration bumps. The high-speed adjuster controls damping when the shock is moving at high speeds like g-outs, jump faces and effects the ride height of the bike (similar to sag). Before you start messing around with clicker adjustments here are some things you should do first.

• Check where your clickers are set at and write them down.

• Start out with recommended stock settings first for baseline.

• Adjust your tire pressure for the type of riding and terrain. (You can check the tire pressure bible on keeferinctesting.com for your type of tire).

• Make sure you have the correct spring rate on your bike for your weight/ability and set your sag.

• Bleed the air out of the forks every time you ride, if you have a spring fork or an AER fork.

• If using air forks, makes sure to check air pressure.

Start off by riding your machine with your clickers set in the stock position. This will give you a good base setting of how your bike handles. Ride only a few laps (2-4) at a time when you try new settings so you will not be second guessing your initial impression of each adjustment. If you stay out too long you will start to second guess your initial thoughts. Ride the same lines every lap so you get a feel for the changes you make and do not ride around the bumps you are trying to test on. Doing this will alter your perception of how well your stuff is working. Cheating doesn’t nothing for you! This will only hurt you in the long run, so buck up and take the rough line! Make changes to your clickers 1-2 “clicks” at a time and one adjustment at a time (rebound or compression). Changing compression/rebound on the fork and shock at the same time can confuse you as to what setting is actually improving your machine. So just chill down and do one adjustment at a time. Soft terrain usually requires more compression damping (stiffer). The bumps are bigger and spaced further apart so they can require more rebound damping to minimize kick (stiffer). If there is a hard base underneath, the bumps will usually be closer together and square edges will develop. In this case a softer setting or a faster rebound can be used. If you are riding in deep sand your compression and rebound settings should be stiffer (slower) than recommended stock settings that are in your manual. You can also run your front end higher (drop your fork height) and the rear end lower (higher sag number) if possible for stability, to combat any twitchiness your bike may have.

On hard pack dirt it is better to adjust the rebound faster while still maintaining control and bottoming resistance. Try to find a happy medium between bottoming and comfort. It’s ok to bottom out once or twice a lap, so don’t freak out if you bottom out once in a while. That doesn’t mean you need to stiffen your suspension if you’re bottoming out. All of your suspension is meant to be used, that’s why it’s there, so let it do its job. If you are bottoming out more than that you would adjust your compression clickers to a stiffer setting. Adjusting your rebound damping to a stiffer setting will help, if your bike feels unstable (loose feel) or if you are blowing through the stroke on jump faces. While it’s common to stiffen (slower) the shock rebound when your bike kicks over bumps (because you feel like it’s bucking you), many times it is caused by compression that is too stiff. Try going one or two clicks softer/faster on rebound to see if it soaks up the bumps and calms the chassis down in that area of the track. Always ride within your means when testing and try not to push 110%. Let the pros do that! 

Again, be patient. Designate a day where you just play around with your settings and get familiar with your bike. I feel like suspension tuning is kind of like dating. You must learn your partner before you can get married right? Getting a balanced, comfortable suspension setting is no different than dating. Get to know your bike before you decide to dump it and blame it all on her. Maybe its you? Maybe you didn’t give it a chance? Play around and see what works for you. If the rear of your bike kicks to the side, the cause can be that it’s too stiff of a rebound setting or too stiff of a compression setting. Again, try one adjustment at a time. Lack of traction (wheel spin) on acceleration bumps can usually be improved by softening the low-speed compression on the shock or speeding up the rebound, so the rear tire follows the ground better. Keep in mind that faster riders generally prefer stiffer settings to maintain control at speed (performance) while slower riders prefer softer settings for comfort.

When it comes to air forks messing with the air pressure can be tricky. Just to let all of you know that 2 psi is one full spring rate. How many times have you changed a spring out at the track? Not very much right? Unless you are very light or extremely heavy, the stock air pressure settings from the factory are usually a great place to start and keep within 1 psi (softer or stiffer). Adjusting your compression and rebound clickers on air forks is much easier and a simpler way to dial in these types of forks. Air pressure will change throughout the day as heat builds up, so if you are checking your air pressure in the middle of the day, make sure the fork is cooled down to ambient air temperature. If you like what you read here, listen to the Rocky Mountain ATV/MC Keefer Tested Podcast and listen to some more tricks that can help you get more cozy on the track! 

Follow some of these easy steps and I can guarantee you that you will get your set up even better and enjoy riding that dirt bike of yours even more. If you have any questions you can email me at kris@keeferinctesting.com as we are here to help. 

The Weekend Race Set Up (4/25/21)

I always thought it would be cool to share the notes that I create after a race with the reader. 98% of the time I will input notes about each test bike/part I decide to race any given weekend. The part as well as the bikes change from time to time, but I always like to have a log of what I ran as well as the conditions of each race. Below is a brief breakdown on the bikes, parts as well as notes on how each performed or felt. Last weekend we brought four bikes to race (2021 Yamaha YZ450F, KTM 250 SX-F, Kawasaki KX450, Yamaha YZ450FX). Below are four breakdowns of what was on each machine and how each machine fared in race conditions. Each time my son and I race, you can check back here to keeferinctesting.com every Tuesday (when we race the previous weekend)  for “The Weekend Race Set Up”.

Track: Glen Helen Raceway

Kris Keefer

Terrain: Sandy top soil AM with hard pack in PM 

Start: Dirt

Avg Lap Time: 2:00

Total Number Of Motos: 4 motos (Four 8 lap motos)

Weight At Time Of Race: 170 pounds w/o gear

2021 Yamaha YZ450F: 

Engine Hours 50.2

Tires: Dunlop MX3S/MX12 13.5/12.5 PSI 

Bars: Pro Taper SX Race Evo

Grips: Renthal Half Waffle Medium

Levers: ARC RC-8 Perch/Lever

Throttle: ZRT 

Rider Triangle: -5mm down and back peg position/stock bar height/rear hole

Gearing: 13/49 Renthal Sprockets/DID ERT3 Chain

Engine Mods: Vortex ECU Mapped By XPR/Akrapovic Evolution System

Engine Oil: Blud Racing 10/40 Pro Series

Fuel: Renegade SX4

Holeshot Device: WC

Graphics/Seat: Throttle Syndicate

Suspension: Enzo Racing Test Fork/Shock Spec #KK145

Air Filter: Twin Air Power Flow Kit 

Plastic: Cycra Power Flow Kit

Results: 1st 450 Pro (1-1-1), 2nd 30 Pro (2-2)

Notes: 

• GH World Vet Vortex ECU setting as well as Akrapovic muffler allowed the most rear wheel connection I have felt yet from any muffler I have tested to date. Power was controlled and easy to manage late in motos.

• YZ450F feels slightly heavy on entry of shallow ruts.

• PSF1 Fork was stiffened up to 38.5 PSI to help with hold up coming down hills. PSF1 had more comfort on heavy landings or when pushing hard into corners. lean angle is not as good as spring fork, but PSF1 setting allowed me to push harder later in the day. Surprising! 

• Shock sag at 105mm made for acceptable balance, but left rebound setting from 4/10/21 race to compensate for choppy conditions so rear can follow ground more.

• WC start device was better off the gate when set at 120mm for dirt start.

• Updated rider triangle (-5mm/-10 back pegs) allows for less leg fatigue. Legs were fresher at end of motos. 

• GUTS standard seat foam is firmer than stock OEM foam and last longer. (12.1 hours on foam and density still holding up).

• TP199 knee pads were worn. Had more mobility when riding, less fatigue and overall movement on bike was more fluid. Roost protection was adequate. Still slip down legs so Asterisk Zero G Knee Brace Pant was worn.

Suspension Setting: 

Fork: (Spec #KK28PSF1)

Air Pressure: 38.5

C: 15

R: 11

Height: 2mm

Shock: (Spec #KK144S)

LSC: 10

HSC: 1.25

R: 9

Sag: 105mm

Track: Glen Helen Raceway

Aden Keefer

Terrain: Sandy top soil AM with hard pack in PM 

Start: Dirt

Avg Lap Time: 2:02

Total Number Of Motos: 4 motos (Four 7 lap motos) 

Weight At Time Of Race: 130 pounds w/o gear

2021 KTM 250 SX-F:

 Engine Hours 10.1 

Tires: Dunlop MX3S/MX12 13.5/12.5 PSI 

Bars: Pro Taper Evo Suzuki Race Team Cut to 805mm

Grips: Pro Taper 1/3 Waffle Race Cut

Levers: Stock

Throttle: ZRT Grey Cam 

Rider Triangle: Stock

Gearing: 14/51 Sunstar Sprockets/DID ERT3 Chain

Engine Mods: Head Mod XPR Motorsports, Custom HC Piston, Vortex ECU Mapped By XPR/HGS Full System

Engine Oil: Blud Racing 10/40 Pro Series

Fuel: Renegade SX4+

Holeshot Device: WC

Graphics/Seat: Throttle Syndicate

Suspension: REP Racing Test Fork/Shock Spec #AK3

Air Filter: Twin Air Power Flow Kit 

Results: 2nd 250 Intermediate, 2nd Schoolboy

 Notes: 

• REP AER setting was set at 9.92, but rider still complaining of soft feeling (dive) under braking.

• Fork comfort on bigger braking bumps was ok, but rider needs more performance (hold up) coming down hills or when over jumping jumps. 

• Fork comfort on small/light bump/accel was acceptable. 

• HGS Muffler provided more hit down low and better throttle response than Akrapovic slip on. 3 out of 4 hole shots with HGS versus 2 out of 4 on the Akra.  

• 120mm holeshot device setting remained from last race and is preferred. 

Suspension Setting:

Fork: (Spec #AK3F)

C: 11

R: 12

Height: 5mm

Air: 9.92 Bar 

Shock: (Spec #AK3S)

LSC: 14

HSC: 1.5

R: 12

Sag: 105mm

Track: Glen Helen Raceway

Michael Allen

Terrain: Sandy top soil AM with hard pack, square edge braking bumps in PM 

Start: Dirt

Avg Lap Time: 2:10

Total Number Of Motos: 4 motos (Four 5 lap motos)

Weight At Time Of Race: 175 pounds w/o gear

2021 Yamaha YZ450FX:

Engine Hours 2.3 

Tires: Dunlop MX33F/MX33 13/12.5 PSI 

Bars: Stock

Grips: Stock

Levers: Stock

Throttle: Stock 

Rider Triangle: Stock bar height/front hole

Gearing: Stock 13/50 

Engine Mods: Stock

Engine Oil: Yamalube 10/40

Fuel: Pump 91

Holeshot Device: none

Graphics/Seat: stock

Suspension: stock, sag at 104mm

Air Filter: stock 

Plastic: stock

Results: 9th Open Vet Int., 4th 30 Plus Int.

Notes:

• Front end pushed and lacked traction in corners, especially flat corners.

• Took a lot of effort to get leaned into a rut and wasn’t planted in rut.

• Stock map has too much power/hit for rough Glen Helen when accelerating up the choppy hills or out off choppy corners

• I started the race in the stock map and changed to the hard packed map just before the second corner.

• The hard packed map mellowed out power delivery in first 5-10% of throttle opening, as well as making the overall power, less “explosive”

• Fork and shock settings were in the ball park for comfort for my height/ability (30+B rider)

• Big improvement over previous year settings as its much less wollowy overall. 

• The fork is slightly firmer than the rear, as once the shock gets deeper in the stroke the wollowy characteristics can still be slightly felt from last year. 

• Even with the longer exhaust, it’s still on the loud side

I’m used to riding a 250F, so the 450FX definitely wore me out, but in a different way. On a 250F I get worn out from riding it aggressively, but on the 450FX I get more worn out form holding on during acceleration (especially up hills). This was my first time riding this bike, so after a 10 minute practice session my first experience was moto one. I got one hole shot, and wasn’t ever outside the top 5. I think one reason I had trouble turning the bike is because the bars were in the forward position as I usually have YZ’s in the rear position. Will be moving mounts to the rear hole from here on out.

Suspension Setting: 

Fork: (stock)

C: 10

R: 8

Height: 5mm

Shock: (stock)

LSC: 10

HSC: 1.25

R: 7

Sag: 104mm

Track: Glen Helen Raceway 

Matthew Sirevaag 

Terrain: Sandy top soil AM with hard pack in PM  

Start: Dirt 

Avg Lap Time: 2:15 

Total Number Of Motos: 4 motos (Four 7 lap motos) 

Weight At Time Of Race: 201 pounds w/o gear 

2021 Kawasaki KX450: 

Engine Hours 41.6 

Mods/Parts:  

Tires: Dunlop MX33F/MX33 13.5/13.5 PSI  

Bars: Pro Taper  Fuzion SX Race  

Grips: Pro Taper Half Waffle Soft 

Levers: Stock 

Rider Triangle: Stock peg position/stock bar height/rear hole 

Gearing: 13/48 Pro Taper Sprockets/DID ERT3 Chain 

Engine Mods: Yoshimura RS12 stainless system 

Engine Oil: Blud Racing 10/40 Pro Series 

Fuel: Pump 91 

Holeshot Device:  None 

Graphics: 180 Decals 

Suspension: Race Tech re-valve/5.2 fork springs 5.8 rear spring

Air Filter: Stock 

Plastic: Stock 

Results:  30B (6-7= 7th), Open Vet = sucked both motos 

Notes:  

 • Regret not installing Works Connection hole shot device three out of the four starts were horrible 

• KX450 has light nimble feel making it easy to change direction mid corner 

• Yosh exahaust system  smoothed out power down low which helped me to roll my corners with more speed. Less jerky feel.

• Went from stock 13/49 gearing to 13/48 to help smooth power out in order to help with rider fatiuge late in motos.

• Fork seemed a little harsh in mid stroke, so opening up rebound helped some coming down rough hills. I still need more comfort in order for me to be able to charge harder late in Motos.

• Shock gave me good comfort/traction, but need to balance the fork to match the shock’s comfort on throttle.

Suspension Setting:  

 Fork:  

C: 12 

R: 15 

Height: 2mm 

Shock:  

LSC: 13 

HSC: 1 3/4 

R: 16 

Sag: 105mm 

Top 5 Reliability Mods To The 2021 KTM 450 XC-F

Written By: Gary Sutherlin

When you hear the phrase “Top 5 Mods” for a KTM most of the time you think of things like, exhaust, engine, ECU or maybe some cone valve forks. However, in this Top 5 Mods article I went outside the box a little since I’ve spent a few years riding this KTM model and have tried numerous exhaust, engine, ECU, and suspension mods already. KTM has marketed the new 2021 KTM 450 XC-F as a 50/50 motorcycle. Basically, KTM believes for the customer, this bike can be ridden on the motocross track Saturday and then trail riding with your buddies on Sunday. And it can…. almost (check out the air fork section at the end for more on that topic). Now, the mods that I’m going to share with you aren’t going to break the bank and set you back thousands of dollars, I mean geez, you just spent $12k on a new bike so the hell wants to do that?  With these mods, your ride will be massively more enjoyable, and your bike will last over the long haul.

1. GPR Pro RBM Kit V5 Top Clamp and Stabilizer: It still amazes me today that more people don’t utilize the great qualities of a good stabilizer. I worked with Randy at GPR about a year ago when he was designing the new V5 and asked about adding his elastomer set-up to help with bump absorption and feedback in the handlebars. That set-up is what went into the new Pro RBM Kit which provides the comfort and stability I’ve been looking for in the front end of the KTM. This kit was built for professional riders only and for the first time, is actually available to the public. This has always been one of the keys to my success and I’m happy the public can finally get them too. 

2. Rekluse Inner Clutch Dampeners: Breaking a rubber is never a good situation. But unfortunately, KTM is known for it, hence Husky and Gas Gas. The clutch rubbers in the KTM 450, in my experience, last around 4-8 hours depending on the way you ride. Once they diminish, you’ll need to replace the clutch pack as well, but instead of replacing the rubbers with the stock ones, I recommend using Rekluse. They have designed a clutch rubber that will go the distance.  I’ve put over 60 hours on one set in the past including a few 2-hour plus races. The stock clutch rubbers on the test bike made 8.7 hours before they started to crack, which led to some slipping. You may not feel a physical gain on the bike, but you will in your wallet.

3. Brake Tech Rear Caliper Piston: Replacing the piston on your new KTM 450 may be one of the best mods on the list but its not the piston you think. I’m super hard on rear brakes and have even melted the rear caliper itself. Brake Tech has redesigned this brake piston to hold 20cc more brake fluid in your rear system as well as drilled holes in the end to help distribute the heat better. Not only do I NOT experience brake fade on long trail rides or racing, but it stopped that annoying rear brake squeak and locking up of the rear wheel while entering corners. With less heat in the rear brake system, I now have increased pad life as well. Editors Note: Gary roaches brake pads in one race! Serious! If he says this works, I will be trying these for myself!

4. Zip-Ty Shark Fin: Zip-Ty Racings rear brake rotor shark fin has been a must have on my bikes for over a decade. Whether you are at the track or on the trail there is always that one rock that jumps up and bends your rotor. So before reaching into your toolbox for a crescent wrench to bend your rotor back or ordering one on Rocky Mountain ATV/MC save yourself the hassle and order one up. Zip-Ty also offers a variety of parts that coincide with the shark fin that make rear wheel changes easier and provide the protection needed for both off-road and motocross. 

5. Unbreakable Brake Pedal Tip by The Ride Shop: This product has a lifetime guarantee. If you can break it, he’ll replace it. That’s the motto Jonny from The Ride Shop had when he set out to build this pedal tip. Most brake pedals fold horizontally (or backwards) and don’t actually create more space. With this unbreakable design the pedal folds up vertically which allows you to hit objects at any angle and it will deflect. Putting pieces like this on any race or long-distance riding machine helps create a sense of calm as it’s one less thing you have to worry about having an issue. In my career, this is about the only part on a motorcycle I’ve never broken. 

What about the Air Fork?

The reason I say the KTM 450 XC-F falls short of a true 50/50 motorcycle is due to the air fork. While I believe for the average consumer the air fork has the features, they need to be successful, I don’t think it’s the case for a higher level rider. At my speed, the faster I go and the rougher the track gets, I cannot get the air fork to perform to match my performance. I spent a lot of time working with the air fork while I had this motorcycle to try to adapt to the different tracks and conditions. Unfortunately, I was never able to get it to be predictable enough for my speed/weight and that’s my only knock on the KTM’s suspension.

Long Term With The 2021 Yamaha YZ 125X

Written By: Dr. Gardner Tarlow

Can the YZ 125X really serve as a multipurpose moto-enduro bike?

If you have read my previous article on the 2021 YZ 125x you know that Kris gave the average Joe rider (me) the opportunity to test the bike. Well luckily for me Kris asked me to continue to ride the bike and give him my extended impression.

I’ve had the opportunity to continue to ride the bike for a few months now. I had been thinking of adding a 125 MX machine to my stable of bikes for mid-week moto for a while, however seeing how I mainly rode enduro, I was hesitant to have a track bike that sat in my garage. When Yamaha first debuted the YZ 125X, I was excited and wanted to see how well the bike could handle the work load as a multipurpose bike. As luck would have it, Kris offered me the opportunity to test the 2021 YZ1 25X and I jumped at the chance. I instantly fell in love with this small-bore bike for both enduro and motocross and I have once again been bitten by the motocross bug. 

I intentionally left the bike completely stock to hopefully get a better sense of the pros and cons as well as the reliability of this bike. This bike currently has 45 hours on it, approximately 20 hours on the trails and 25 hours at the track. I have only performed regular maintenance and played with suspension sag and clicker adjustments. The bike has continued to perform well and has been reliable on both the track and trail.

Not owning a newer 125 for the track to have as a yard stick, I felt this bike more than handled our local tracks and really didn’t give up much in track performance compared to a pure track bike. Recently however, I had the opportunity to ride back-to-back the YZ 125X and a stock 21 Husqvarna TC125. This was a bit of an eye opener for me as it took a bit of shine off the YZ 125X. I continued to prefer the YZs handling and rough track prowess, but the power difference pulling out of corners, down longer straights, and large hills was too much to turn a blind eye to. It would be interesting to ride the 125X back to back with the YZ125 to feel the difference.

In reality, I don’t know how important it is to compare the YZ 125X to a motocross track specific bike as that is not the designed purpose. In the same vein, I think it would be difficult to take a track specific 125 out into the hills, ride a rocky single track, with technical hill climbs/rock gardens for 2-3 hours and not feel completely beat up by the end of the ride. Each bike design serves a different purpose, especially when comparing the extremes of each riding discipline. The YZ 125X is designed to be a GNCC race bike, this means extended cross country, off road courses, and lasting 2-3 hours of racing. These courses will have sections which are tighter and potentially more technical than any motocross track and other sections that will be just as wide open as any motocross track or even short desert sections. Maybe the better question is which 125 can merge to perform all the different disciplines if you’re looking for a single 125 multipurpose bike. 

When straight up comparing the YZ 125X wet weight to the other 125 motocross bikes the difference is between 2-10 lbs difference. The YZ 125X is still very light, flickable, easy to muscle around, and place into whatever line you want. Unfortunately, shedding weight on a bike can get expensive and when you consider the HP to weight difference, this may be slightly problematic at the track if you are competitively racing. For me however this isn’t a huge issue as I am looking to have fun on days off.

The power of the YZ 125X engine is smooth, very controllable and builds from off the bottom all the way up to its top end. The bottom end lugability allows the bike to perform very well on slow technical climbs as well as allow me to change lines when trying to maneuver over slow rocky obstacles. The delivery of the bottom end also allows you to roll on the throttle at very low speeds without having to abuse the clutch too much which is nice for an old doc like me. This also translates well for motocross allowing you to be more creative with inside lines and also makes up for some riding technique deficiencies. The mid-range is strong and more than capable with both riding disciplines and it hauls my 185 pound frame around well.. The top end of the YZ 125X seems to rev out sooner than I would like and fall off, leaving you wanting a little more top end. In stock form this is where the YZ 125X suffers the most compared to a track specific 125. 

Modifying a YZ 125X to gain 6hp or more is possible, but at what cost to reliability as well as dollars. I don’t think I would mind pushing my YZ 125X back to the pits from the tracks edge, but it would make for a bad day of riding if you have to tow your bike back 2-3 miles away from your truck. 

Although not a hydraulic clutch, I was pleasantly surprised at how well the stock clutch performed despite the abuse of both enduro and moto riding. The clutch had a light pull and continued to perform with minimal adjusting even on my most abusing days. Being at 45 hours the clutch held up well and although it will get a new clutch, I believe there are a few more good rides on the existing one. 

The suspension on the 125X is essentially the same KYB setup as the YZ125 but with different valving, because of this, the YZ 125X has the potential to be as good as any YZ125. In its stock form it’s very ridable for the smaller rider, but at 185 pounds once you start getting aggressive or the track gets rougher, you notice the big hits in your wrists and feel the suspension moving thru the stroke too quickly. This unfortunately is going to be the case for all heavier  riders, so re-valving the suspension front and rear with a stiffer spring rate is par for the course with any 125. In stock setting the suspension is just too soft for motocross unless you are the intended audience (<160lb) and even then, it is too soft for a faster rider when considering motocross. Out on the enduro trail and tight single track the suspension valving seems very appropriate soaking up rocky uneven surfaces, but again would need heavier springs for the larger riders.

Being more of an enduro guy and riding primarily a KTM 300XC, I felt the YZ 125X was a blast in the hills, single track and small rock gardens. Although the 125 is much easier to throw around and significantly lighter weight than my 300, you have to ride a 125 with much more aggression to get through certain types of sections. The same way it is a blast to attack at the track you need to do the same out in the hills. I definitely felt like I could manhandle and ride the more difficult sections better on the 125 but by the end of the 3 hour rides, this constant need to attack the trail left me feeling more fatigued compared to my larger bore bike. I will say I think the YZ 125X would be a great tool for any rider to improve and work on extreme enduro style techniques.

My wish list for this YZ 125X would be a gradual build up. I typically replace parts as they need servicing or I damage them. At 185 pounds without gear and 45 hours of ride time, the suspension needs servicing. I would service as well as address changing the spring rate and more aggressive valving to better handle weekday moto. I find it easier to soften suspension with clickers for enduro than stiffen suspension for moto. I occasionally drop or dare I say throw my bike out on the trail when in trouble, so bike armor for off-road is a must. At minimum the bike needs an aluminum rear disk guard, plastic front disc guard, skid plate, linkage guard, radiator guards and hand guards. The difference between a good running 125 and the same 125 finely tuned, can be significant. The carburetor performance in stock form seemed adequate, but I feel there is some performance gain to be had with a reed valve system. I wouldn’t mind adding a high compression head, pipe/silencer combo to even the playing field at the track. This would help overall power and hopefully provide a bit more top end without sacrificing too much bottom end performance. The front brake performance is average and although appropriate for both disciplines, an oversize front rotor and steel brake cable would be an improvement. The YZ 125X gas tank is the same as the YZ 125 at 2.1 gallons and although it has a reserve petcock, it doesn’t extend ride time or mileage. I spent most enduro rides carrying gas filled water bottles in my fanny pack so a larger tank would be optimal. Unfortunately, most available larger tanks (3.2 gallons) seem rather large for track purpose. Yamaha should have designed and provided a slightly larger 2.5 gallon tank (similar to the WR450F),which would have been perfect and still small enough for moto. 

Without a doubt the YZ 125X can serve as a multipurpose 125. The more I rode this bike week to week, the more I appreciated what the YZ 125X could do out on the trail and at the track. Outside of competitive motocross, I believe the YZ 125X is a great alternative for someone wanting a 125 that can do it all with the least amount of difficulty going from one discipline to another.