2022 450 MX Baseline Settings

Most of the 2022 models haven’t changed, but there are some updates to a couple machines as well as a couple changes within our baseline settings chart for the 22 models. Just like with race settings, some of these production settings have evolved and these are the latest and greatest for the 22 450 MX’ers.

Kawasaki KX450:

The stock KX450 fork is too soft on de-cel and needs more hold up. These settings will help achieve this and leave you with enough comfort where your hands will not be screaming for mercy. 

Fork: 

 Spring Rate 5.1 N/m Spring (5.0 N/m is stock) *If B level rider and over 200 pounds 5.2 N/m springs are also a great option*

 Oil Level: Standard

 Compression:11-12 clicks out (12 clicks out with 5.2 spring)

 Rebound Range: 10-11 clicks out

 Fork Height: 2-3 mm

 Shock:

Sag: 104-105mm

 Spring Rate: 54 N/m (190 pounds or over, try 56 N/m)

 Low Speed Compression: 16 clicks out

 High Speed Compression: 1 1/8 turns out

 Rebound: 10-11 out

Yamaha YZ450F:

Suspension: If you’re sticking with stock valving the 2022 Yamaha YZ450F’s suspension settings are stiffer this year so pitching should be less of a problem rolling off throttle. Once broken in the suspension does get a little softer, but keeps the comfort we all know from a KYB/Yamaha set up. The shock is a little stiff on high speed compression so we do recommend backing that off a little bit so the rear can squat a little more coming out of corners. The comfort that the KYB SSS fork has is unmatched and the track toughness it provides makes your life so much less stressful on set up. This setting below will work for most riders ranging from 160-195 pounds with no gear.

Fork: 

Height: 4mm

Compression: 10 clicks out

Rebound: 8 clicks out

Shock: 

Sag: 104mm

Low Speed Compression: 10 clicks out

High Speed Compression: 1 turn out

Rebound: 13 clicks out 

Honda CRF450R:

The stock suspension might be too soft for you if you’re anywhere over 180 pounds. Honda has a 5.0 N/m fork spring that is adequate for most, but the valving is still slightly on the softer side to aid in chassis rigidity. Out back the 54 N/m shock spring is also soft, so if you’re looking for a quick band aid to make your Honda CRF450R better, without going to a re-valve, going a spring rate up on each end has helped me feel more secure on high speed tracks, as well as soft bumpy tracks (this is only good for riders north of 180 pounds). Bringing both ends up a little in the stroke (with the heavier spring rates) has given me more front/rear wheel traction as well a Honda that corners better without over-steering. Going up in spring rate does help with track toughness and in most cases a straighter handling CRF450R. If you’re not into spending more money on a re-valve at this time, simply get some heavier springs and try this setting: 

 Fork: 

 Spring Rate: 5.1 N/m (One 5.2N/m spring in one side)

 Height: Flush-2mm

 Comp: 12 out

 Rebound: 10 out

Shock:

 Spring Rate: 56 N/m 

 L/S Comp: 12 clicks out

 H/S Comp: 2 3/4 clicks out

 Rebound: 10 clicks out

Sag: 106mm

KTM 450 SX-F:

 The recommended settings were 10.7 bar or 155psi of air in the fork, compression at 12 out and rebound at 18 out. This setting was, as suspected, too soft for my liking and after testing at a few tracks, I found a base line setting of:

Fork:

Air Pressure: 11.0 bar or 162 psi of air

Compression at 13 clicks

Rebound 15 out. 

*With Factory Hard Parts Triple Clamps or Ride Engineering Split Clamps*

Height: 5mm

Air Pressure: 11.0 Bar

Compression: 12 clicks out

Rebound: 13 clicks out

Shock:

Sag: 102mm

L/S Comp: 8 out

H/S Comp: 1.5 out

Rebound: 12 out

Husqvarna FC450:

With this setting I had no issues bottoming on hard landings as well as  bump absorption/hold up/traction were very good even at GH late in the day. 

The shock was a bit more difficult to find a great setting for, but that is due to the shock spring being slightly soft (undersprung for my level of riding). The action of the shock wasn't bad, my issue was with a spring that is just simply too soft. The shock was riding too low in the stroke which caused a low squat in the apex of turns and a soft blow thru feeling on transitions, whoops, and hard landings. As I said this is easily fixed with a stiffer spring but when striving for a stock base line setting you do the best with what you have. I ended up going with 102mm of sag, high speed compression at 1/2 turn out, low speed compression at 8 out and rebound at 12 out. Now some of you may ask why I didn't go further in on compression and I did try that, but the action on acceleration chop/braking bumps suffered when things are closed off that much. The soft feeling on landings, whoops and turns was more manageable than the instability in choppy acceleration bumps or entering braking bumps at speed. Not the ideal trade off, but again if you have to make do until you get the correct spring rates or a revalve, these settings should work for you. At the end of the day this base line set up allowed me to get more comfortable at speed and gave me a direction of the areas I want to improve.

Fork (Stock Triple Clamp): 

Height: 5mm

Air Pressure: 11.0 Bars

Compression: 13-14 clicks out

Rebound: 13 clicks out

*With KTM Hard Parts Triple Clamps or Ride Engineering Split Clamps*

Height: 5mm

Air Pressure: 11.1 Bars

Compression: 15-16 clicks out

Rebound: 13 clicks out

Shock:

Sag: 102mm

Low Speed Compression: 10 clicks out

High Speed Compression: 1.25 out 

Rebound:  11 clicks out

Gas Gas MC450:

The 21 Gas Gas MC450 has a similar suspension feel to the KTM, but the chassis has slightly more compliancy so the setting that I came up with is only slightly slower moving than the KTM. This is a general happy spot for the other red machine: 

Fork (Stock Triple Clamp): 

Height: 5mm

Air Pressure: 11 Bar

Compression: 14 clicks out

Rebound: 11 clicks out

*With Factory Hard Parts Triple Clamps or Ride Engineering Split Clamps*

Height: 5mm

Air Pressure: 11 Bar

Compression: 11 clicks out

Rebound: 10 clicks out

Shock:

Sag: 103mm

Low Speed Compression: 10 clicks out

High Speed Compression: 1.5 out 

Rebound:  10 clicks out

2022 Husqvarna FC450 Baseline Settings/Top Mods

The Husqvarna FC450 is unchanged for 2022 besides some Brembo pieces that replaced the Magura ones (clutch/slave cylinder). The FC450 is one of the friendliest bikes in this class to ride, but to me needs to wake up a little down low to make this white stallion feel lighter. Sometimes what is on paper is not what is felt on the track so try these mods below to get some added power and comfort out of your FC450! 

Suspension: The factory fork and shock settings are soft for the average sized 450 rider (180 pounds) on the 2022 FC450 so we did go a little bit stiffer on air pressure and softer on compression settings, but have found improved results in comfort, not just performance. All three test riders (155, 170, 195 pounds) that tried this setting agreed that the bike/chassis was calmer on acceleration and de-cel bumps. This setting will give the Husqvarna better hold up as well as help the overall balance of the bike from feeling stinkbug coming into corners. Our 195 pound rider preferred a 48N/m shock spring with the recommended shock settings below.

Fork:

Air Pressure: 10.9 bar

Compression: 14-15 out

Rebound: 11 out

Fork Height: 5mm

Shock:

L/S Compression: 11-12 clicks out

H/S Compression: 1-3/4 turns out

Rebound: 12 clicks out

Sag: 104-105mm

Shock: (195 pounds and over)

Spring Rate: 48N/m

L/S Compression: 14 clicks out

H/S Compression: 2 turns out

Rebound: 13 clicks out

Sag: 104-105mm

Rider Triangle: The standard Pro Taper handlebar that comes on the FC450 is low and flat, but fits the Husqvarna’s cockpit very well for most. I did want more height from my bar when I stood up, so I went with a Pro Taper Race Team bend and this helped me get over the front of the bike more when standing. The Race Team bar worked well for riders from 5’8 to 6’1. The Race Team bend comes in a crossbar or crossbar-less style and is (W)810 (H)91 (R)49 (S)52. If you’re looking for a better stand up feel from your Husqvarna look for handlebar close to this measurement. If you do like the stock bar try cutting the bar down to 805mm instead of the longer/standard 811mm. This will help you corner.  

ECU Settings: The 2022 FC450 has a locked ECU box so getting inside to remap is not going to happen like it did two years ago. The good news is that the ECU is much cleaner and should NOT need to be remapped unless you need more power. In that case, you will need to go to a Vortex ECU mapped by Jamie at Twisted or Chad at XPR. Those are my two go to gentlemen to make usable power. Sure there are others out there, but these two guys made the most out of every Autrian bike that I have tested. If you are on a stock ECU, map 2 is my preferred standard map in most conditions as it comes on a little sooner and pulls slightly harder than map 1.

Gearing: The 2022 FC450 comes with a 13/49 gearing ratio. This gearing should be just fine for most tracks, but if you want a little more mid range engine recovery and free-er feeling shock on acceleration, a 14/52 gearing ratio works well. The 14/52 gearing will require a new chain length and I usually go with this gearing when riding tracks similar to Glen Helen (aka faster choppy tracks) to settle the rear end under load. 

Chassis: Aftermarket engine mounts are all the rage right now and some of you may not have the money to spend on a pair of engine mounts for your Husqvarna. I will say that I don’t feel like the Husqvarna’s chassis is stiff, but I have heard from other lighter riders that it can be at times, so I decided to play around with torque specs and came up with a 28Nm setting on each bolt for both engine hangers. This band aid will give you a more planted sensation when on throttle while leaning the FC450 through sweepers and fast straights. You will have to make sure that all engine mount bolts have blue Loctite to ensure they do not back out. You can also try torquing your swingarm pivot bolt to 95 Nm (instead of 100Nm) to help rear end traction out of corners. The downside to doing these mods is that the chassis will flex a little more, so if you’re riding deep tilled tracks this modification may be too “flexy” for some (especially when chopping throttle).

Rear Axle Block Kit: Going to a Works Connection axle block kit or Ride Engineering axle block kit will get rid of the fixed left axle block on the stock Husqvarna’s axle. This will help the rear end to move more freely under throttle and improve the shock’s comfort on acceleration chop. Rear wheel placement isn’t as crucial on the Husqvarna as it is on some other 450’s we have tested so if your rear wheel placement is somewhere in the middle of the axle block marks, that will be sufficient for these recommended suspension settings.

TD Exhaust Flange: The Twisted Development exhaust flanges are shaped differently than the stock OEM flange, which can change the engine character of the KTM 450 SX-F. I went through several during testing and found out a size/shape that can actually enhance the low to mid range power character. Compared to the stock piece the TD Performance flange will give you better throttle response through area 2-3 (mid to exit) of corners. Another advantage to me is that the TD flange helps pulling power out of corners as well and helps third gear lugability. The TD flange just helps the RPM’s pick up quicker, which in turn makes the KTM feel lighter when the track gets bumpy. There is no need to remap your ECU and it takes minutes to install.  

FMF 4.1 Muffler System: To me, FMF makes one of the best muffler systems for the FC450. There are some other companies that have other bikes dialed in more, but on the Husqvarna/KTM side, FMF has got it down. You will get more low to mid RPM response as well as more mid range pulling power. Top end is increased plus the over-rev is as good as stock. It is one of the few times that I was impressed because it was actually better than stock in almost all areas. The downside is that you must keep up on muffler packing (every 10-12 engine hours) because the FMF will blow out and that could damage your expensive titanium can. Did I mention that you will lose almost two pounds with this system? If you slap on spring forks you will be gaining almost three pounds. You can get most of that back down with a 4.1 Titanium FMF Muffler system.

2022 Husqvarna FC250 Suggested Settings/Mods

The 2022 Husqvarna FC250 has been in heavy circulation the past couple months and we have come across some settings to get you comfy as well as some mods that can help you get some more power out of the white stallion. 

TC Two-Stroke Air Filter Cage: This is the cheapest and easiest way to get more throttle response out of your FC 250. You will notice better throttle response through the low to mid RPM range by simply going to a TC two stroke cage with no backfire screen. Here is the part number you will need. P/N 5040601600

FMF 4.1 Full Muffler System: To me, FMF makes the best muffler system for the Husqvarna FC250. There are some other companies that have other bikes dialed in more, but on the Husqvarna, FMF has got it down. You will get more low to mid RPM response as well as more mid range pulling power. Top end is increased plus the over-rev is as good as stock. It is one of the few times that I was impressed because it was actually better than stock in almost all areas. The downside is that you must keep up on muffler packing (every 10-12 engine hours) because the FMF will blow out and that could damage your expensive titanium can. Did I mention that you will lose almost two pounds with the titanium 4.1 system? If you slap spring forks on your Husqvarna, you will be gaining almost three pounds. You can get most of that weight gain back down with a 4.1 Titanium FMF Muffler system.

Pro Taper Handlebars: But Keefer they come with Pro Taper’s! Yes, I know but now that PT offers the “Race Team bend” (810mm width, 91mm height, 49mm rise, and 52mm sweep), which is a little higher of a bend than the stock Husqvarna PT bar and is still a pretty straight. I do cut the Race Team bend down to 805mm as that is the happy medium for me and my 5’11 frame. The Pro Taper SX Race bar worked well for riders from 5’8 to 6’1 as well. Both bends come in a crossbar or crossbar-less style and the SX Race bend has a 800mm width, 87mm height, 54.5 rise, and 54mm sweep. If you’re looking for a better “stand up feel” from your FC250 look for handlebar close to these measurements.

Throttle Tube: There are a couple you can choose from here… If you’re looking for an aluminum throttle tube that is expensive, but helps the feel of your throttle, I recommend the ZRT throttle. This throttle tube makes the pull have almost zero drag and is a tough SOB. There is some set up/prep time to this throttle (cutting the right side of the handlebars), but it can help the pull over the long haul. If you’re more the plastic style tube type of rider, look at the Motion Pro Titan tube as it’s tough for a plastic tube and doesn’t have as much drag as the stock lock on style ODI grip/tube that comes on the stock FC’s. The stock plastic throttle has a lot of friction and gets tough to turn too quickly. 

Ride Engineering One Piece Bar Mount: The Ride Engineering One Piece Oversize Bar Mount has a one-piece top that is designed to resist bending much better than the stock bar mount. Precision machined from aircraft quality aluminum, there is also a 6mm difference between the forward and back mounting positions. Ride Engineering also machines their own stainless steel posts that prevent over tightening, unlike some other competing brands that DO NOT use quality posts. This bar mount has saved my son and I a couple times when we are out doing motor. He seems to crash a lot in corners and the stock mount on the FC250 just twists and bends easily.

Rear Axle/Axle Blocks: Going to a Works Connection Elite axle block kit or Ride Engineering axle block kit will get rid of the fixed left axle block on the stock KTM’s axle. This will help the rear end to move more freely under throttle and improve the shock’s comfort on acceleration chop. Both are great, but you will have to decide if you want a complete axle/axle block kit like Ride Engineering’s  or just the blocks themselves like WC’s.

Rear Brake Pedal Spring: Purchase a Honda CRF450R rear brake pedal spring with the rubber around the spring. The FC rear brake pedal spring vibrates and will break every 4-5 engine hours. Orrrrrrrrr. Get a Fasst Co rear brake return spring and be done with it! Fasst Co’s rear brake return spring offers tunable pedal resistance and a more controllable feel by placing the spring in compression instead of tension, minimizing the "on-off" feel of most rear brakes.

Fuel Filters: If you’re a FC owner, do yourself a favor and put a couple of these in your toolbox just in case. Fuel filters can get clogged on all FC’s and this can cause damage to your fuel pump or possibly not allow your bike to start properly.

Throttle Cables: If there is one thing that DOES NOT last on KTM’s/FC’s it’s the throttle cables. Every 20 hours or so I will have to replace the throttle cables to ensure that my throttle doesn’t feel hard or sticky when twisting. Originally I thought my throttle tube was dirty or maybe the right side of the handlebar had dirt on it, but I found out through a couple KTM mechanics, that the throttle cables simply wear out. You can’t lube them or clean them out as it will only make the throttle feel better for a short amount of time.  

Check All Spokes: KTM/FC spokes always come loose near the rim lock so make sure you pay attention to all the spokes after every ride. If you don’t check them constantly you will lose or break a couple. 

Check Engine Mounts/Swingarm Pivot Bolt: Always check the torx bolts that hold the top engine hangers on the bike. After break in, these will loosen up a bunch, so you might need some blue Loctite on the threads. After you do this, please continue to check these as they still back out from time to time. The torque spec on these bolts are important to the ride attitude of these FC’s. Also the FC come with frame guards and that means you will not know (until it’s too late) when your swingarm pivot bolt  backs out. Take off your frame guard and check pivot bolt regularly. While you’re at it, get the Acerbis frame guards as they last longer and have better grip than the stock ones. 

FI Indicator Light: The little FI indicator light bulb will fall out of the rubber casing as soon as you get past 10 hours. The best thing to do is put a little silicone inside the rubber casing, so the light bulb as well as the wire doesn’t flop around. 

Connector Behind Front Number Plate: If your FC or KTM is cutting out or maybe not starting, check behind the number plate for this connector. It could be unplugged or corroded from condensation. Hardwiring the wires/connecter is the best way to ensure that it doesn’t come unplugged. You can even using a two post connector instead of a four post as that can work as well. If you’re turning your handlebar to the right and your FC will not start, chances are it’s the starter wire being kinked or pulled too tight. Pull the sheathing away from the cables and inspect to see if it has come apart.

Suspension Settings:

RIDER WEIGHT: 150-185 POUNDS

Fork: 

Spring Rate: 10.7-10.8 bar

Height: 5mm

Compression: 12 clicks out 

Rebound: 9-10 clicks out

Shock:

Spring Rate: 42 N/mm

Spring Rate For 175 Pounds And Up: 45 N/mm

Sag: 102mm

High Speed Compression: 1.5 

Low Speed Compression: 9 clicks out

Rebound: 10 clicks out 

2022 Kawasaki KX250 Review/Suspension Settings

No, the 2022 KX250 IS NOT changed from the 2021 model, but that didn’t stop us from getting a re-fresher on the green machine. Below, we will walk you through some positives and negatives of the bike to see if it could be the right bike for you. If this is not enough green content for your eyes, you can also listen to show #256 of the RMATVMC Keefer Tested Podcast to get more insight on the 2022 KX250. Also look below for some baseline settings for the green machine.

Engine:

Even though the 2022 KX250 engine has been unchanged, Kawasaki is still one of the top three 250 four stroke engines in my opinion. I like that this engine can rev to 14,500 and you can feel that on the track when riding! The 2022 KX250′s engine characteristics are the same to the 2021 package with that great over-rev because of the increased rev limit they achieved in 2021. They achieved this higher rpm mainly by adding stiffer valve springs along with new camshaft timing. The power delivery is definitely better if you keep the rpm up and although the green bike doesn’t have that Yamaha mid range meat, it still pulls strong. Maintaining the correct gear is also important, meaning second gear will be used in most corners and will not give you that lugability like the Yamaha. The engine revs far enough that shifting to third gear is not needed until you have exited the corner and down the straight a bit. The FI mapping runs right great from the get-go.

There are three different preprogrammed settings available. These are changed via a coupler located on the right side just by the steering stem. Green is standard, white is aggressive, and black is mellow. This is the same system as what comes on the KX450. I tested all three and found improvements in certain areas with the white and black couplers. Each had improvements, but they also had some drawbacks. The Kawasaki technicians created a custom map that uses the ignition settings of the white coupler and the fuel mapping of the black coupler, which made for a noticeable improvement in the overall power and was accomplished by increasing the midrange torque, which helped it continue to make power further into the highest of rpm. I wouldn’t say it was huge, but it helped with mid rpm torque and seemed to make the power even longer into the upper rpm range. This is called the Chavez Map which has been around for a couple years now.

To do this custom mapping on your own, you would need to buy the accessory KX FI Calibration Kit, which retails for $699.95. It can be found on the Kawasaki website and ordered through your local dealer. This is an added expense, but if you are serious enough about your racing, you are probably already planning on getting your suspension revalved and purchasing an aftermarket exhaust, race gas, and more. So, it is worth considering adding this tool to your race budget.

Clutch:

The hydraulic clutch works well and to me isn't as on/off as the Brembo system. This Nissin unit is the same system that is used on the KX450 and it has proven to work well. The clutch assembly is also using a cone-disc spring in place of a coil-spring system. The clutch friction plates have three different materials to help reduce clutch fade from heat. The clutch works well and plate life is on par with the Honda CRF450R system. It was easy to modulate and because of the hydraulic system, there was no fade during our motos. Shifting under load was reasonably easy with only the smallest amount of clutch lever input, which is much better than the KTM under load.

Chassis/Ergos:

The KX250 chassis is based off the same platform as the KX450. For me, at 5’11, the Kawasaki chassis fits me well and I would say this would be true for most riders. The feel is almost Honda’esq but slimmer feeling. The rider triangle is neutral with plenty of room for adjustment. The handlebar can be moved forward or backward and the footpegs have an optional lower position for taller riders or someone looking to try to lower the bike’s center of gravity. The chassis is also narrow—possibly one of the narrowest four-stroke bikes on the market. Sitting on the KX250, I would say it is a little more of a sitting on top of the bike feeling, but not sitting as high as a KTM or Husqvarna.

The brakes are also great on the KX250 for 2022. The front brake system is the same as the KX450 including the 270mm front rotor. That means the bike now comes with the KX’s very distinct, thin front brake lever. The 250 rear brake has a smaller 240mm rear rotor (down from 250mm on 2020 model). The front brake lever is noticeably thinner than most other brands and to me is annoying. It is fairly easy to modulate and offers a medium to firm feel. The rear brake is noticeably improved with the smaller 240mm rotor over the KX450. Going to the 240 rear rotor helps the rear brake feel less touchy/grabby.

Suspension:

(150-170 Pounds)

Fork: 

Spring Rate: 4.9 N/mm

Height: 4mm

Compression: 11-12 clicks out 

Rebound: 10 clicks out 

Shock:

Spring Rate: 54 N/mm

Sag: 103mm

High Speed Compression: 1.25 turns out

Low Speed Compression: 8 clicks out

Rebound: 10 clicks out 

(175-200 Pounds)

Fork: 

Spring Rate: 4.9 N/mm

Height: 4mm

Compression: 9-10 clicks out 

Rebound: 12 clicks out 

Shock:

Spring Rate: 56 N/mm

Sag: 104mm

High Speed Compression: 1.5 turns out

Low Speed Compression: 11 clicks out

Rebound: 9 clicks out

50 Hours On The 2022 KTM 250 SX-F

We have been hammering down a lot of motos on the 2022 KTM 250SX-F before it has to make its way back to the KTM offices to make way for the 2022.5 KTM 250 Factory Edition. There are still some consumers out there that are concerned about KTM’s durability and wonder if you can trust the Austrian machine over the course of several hard hours. Well to try and give some real world feedback, we have purposely been a little “over abusive” on this orange test steed to see if in fact we can trust the KTM engineers and their R&D department. We have just went over the 50 hour mark last week and have accumulated over 20 of those hours in the past four weeks on rough test tracks near our home. This KTM 250 SX-F has seen its fair share of the testing workload on many parts, accessories and product evaluations in its 50 hour lifespan. A 50 hour engine, on my scale, is like a 75-80 hour engine on a regular blue collar average weekend racer/rider. If you’re looking for shiny new photos of the 2022 KTM 250 SX-F you came to the wrong place. This thing is a work horse and not a show pony. Below are some of the key points I wanted to share with you current 2022 KTM 250 SX-F owners and maybe potential KTM buyers about our test unit. 

2022 KTM 250 SX-F:

 Engine Hours 50.1 

Tires: Dunlop MX3S/MX33 13.5/12.5 PSI 

Bars: Pro Taper Evo Suzuki Race Team Cut to 805mm

Grips: Pro Taper 1/3 Waffle Race Cut

Levers: Stock

Throttle: ZRT Grey Cam 

Rider Triangle: Stock

Gearing: 14/52 Sunstar Sprockets/DID ERT3 Chain

Engine Mods: None

Muffler: FMF 4.1/ Akrapovic Evolution 

Engine Oil: Blud Racing 10/40 Pro Series

Fuel: Renegade SX4+

Holeshot Device: WC

Graphics/Seat: Throttle Syndicate

Suspension: REP Racing Test Fork/Shock Spec #AK4

Air Filter: Twin Air Power Flow Kit 

Engine/ECU Settings: KTM’s R&D department has done a good job with their ECU settings on the KTM 250 SX-F, but we were looking for more bottom end on this specific model when Aden races. Being in the B class out in California requires you to keep up with the Joneses so to speak so adding a little “meat” to the KTM 250 SX-F wasn’t off the table. When you first get your KTM 250 SX-F and ride her it may feel very tight, sluggish off the bottom end, slight de-cel popping, as well as have more engine braking than we would like. Some of these symptoms die off after 8-10 hours of riding time on the engine. We used the stock ECU box/settings for the first 18 hours and we had some of those symptoms until around hour 9, then the de-cel popping went away and also some of that sluggish feeling coming out of corners. So does that mean you current 2022 KTM 250 SX-F owners are screwed? No. I just wanted to make it clear that this bike is very much rideable in stock form without a ECU re-flash. 

If you DO NOT want to spend the money on a Vortex ignition you can get your standard box re-flashed from Jamie at Twisted Development. Jamie has a better ECU setting for you current orange brigade riders out there. If you DO want to spend the extra $800.00 or so, the Vortex is simply magic for this engine. The engine delivery still remains so smooth yet easier to ride and increases the use of second and third gear. Going to the Vortex ignition gives you the option to ride with less effort while decreasing your lap times because the workload is simply less with the power character the Vortex gives the orange machine. I repeat you DO NOT have to have the Vortex to make the KTM 250 SX-F engine better! You can save some money and re-flash your current ECU, but if you want the most out of the engine without busting into it, this Vortex is really good!

What about durability once you go with a Vortex ignition? I have yet to have any durability issues with going to an aftermarket ECU that is correctly mapped from either said company above. It is one of the only modifications you can make to your machine that will make a noticeable difference in power without sacrificing the lifespan of your engine. 

What about clutch life? Aden is not really hard on clutches, but we literally can go over 30 hours on one clutch and when we did check it, it was still good! At the 50.1 hour mark we have only installed one clutch. We change out the engine oil every 4 hours and use a 10/40 Synthetic by Blue Lubricants. We also DO NOT notice slippage under load when the engine gets hot. The hydraulic clutch is something that we have come to appreciate more through the years and although the engagement of the KTM is a little on/off feeling, the overall performance of the clutch itself is amazing under heavy race oriented type stress. 

What about engine maintenance? I am not going to sit here and tell you I am some great mechanic and I am busing out valve clearance checks every 20 hours. We did check the valve clearance after 25 hours and they were within spec and I haven't checked them since. Like I mentioned above I have used Blud Racing 10/40 in this bike and have changed the oil every 4 hours. I am usually a 2-3 engine hour oil change kind of guy, but the KTM has held the rigorous amount of riding time that I have put on it.

Chassis/Suspension: During the course of the 50 hours we spent on this machine, we decided to stick with the stock WP suspension, but had it valved from REP/AEO. We wanted to stick with the AER fork and see if we could get it comfortable enough and not have to resort to a spring conversion. The setting that Mark at REP provided us gave more front end feel through the fork/front end and was more consistent throughout the day than the stock setting. My 135 pound son had a chance to ride with some WP Pro Components set up for him, but he actually chose the AER set up because he liked how much comfort he had versus the Pro Component fork. The REP valved shock had better high speed compression feel on heavy loads and the combination of the new valving and REP knuckle/link provided more rear wheel traction than the stock set up we used before this REP setting. If you're a weekend warrior just looking for more comfort on your KTM 250SX-F, there is hope that you can get that with some re-valving though REP. 

Gearing: We have ran the stock gearing as well as tried going to a 14/52 and found out that we like the 14/52 set up to get some extra low end snap as well as third gear roll on out of corners. We like the 14/52’s traction character out of corners, but you must realize that you can shift a little earlier with this gearing to feel that extra rear wheel traction. With the stock gearing, the KTM 250 SX-F kind of forces you to use second gear longer, but with the added tooth, it can help you third gear luggers. Give it a try if you're a third gear kind of rider. We also only have changed the Sunstar sprockets/DID ERT 3 chain once during this 50 hour period! 

Handlebars/Grips: My son and I are both crossbar-less type of riders so we chose the Pro Taper EVO Race Team bend that just came out from Pro Taper. The Race Team bend is a 810mm width, 91mm height, 49mm rise, 52mm sweep and is a great flat that keeps you over the front of the machine. We can get over the front of the bike better out of corners, but our elbows are up a little more naturally and we feel better when standing on the bike. If you're a crossbar kind of guy, the Pro Taper Fuzion bar has a EVO-ish flex character and will not feel as rigid as some other crossbar brands. Also note that the stock lock-on-grips/throttle tube also can get heavy after around 20 hours, so check your plastic tube for wear. The plastic on the lock on grips can get rough inside and make your throttle pull hard. If you ware looking to put standard grips on go with a ZRT aluminum throttle as it will make your throttle so buttery you will never want to go back to a plastic tube again. Plus the ZRT is the toughest aluminum throttle tube we have ever come across. 

Air Filter: Buy yourself a KTM 250SX two-stroke air filter cage because they come without a backfire screen and then go get a Twin Air filter. Just doing this little modification gave me some added RPM response which helps the KTM feel even lighter in tight sections of any given track. 

Wheels/Tires/Axle Blocks: You will have to check your sprocket bolts and spokes religiously, but if you use a little blue Loctite on your sprocket bolts you should be good. You can also increase the rear wheel traction by going with some Works Connection Elite axle blocks or Ride Engineering axle blocks that will eliminate the fixed left side axle block from your axle. This allows both axle blocks to float under heavy load (acceleration) and will not give you a binding rear end (harsh) feel. It sounds minimal, but makes a difference on acceleration chop. You can also run your wheel a little farther back if you're changing your gearing to get some added straight line stability that the KTM can use at times. If there is a weak point to the KTM, it is the wheels. We have blown out two rear wheels in the past six months so maybe upgrading to a better wheel set could be in your future if you’re slightly hard on your wheels because you over jump or under jump a lot.

Rear Brake Pedal Spring: The stock one sucks! We break the brake pedal spring every 4-6 hours! You either are going to have to load up on brake pedal springs or go with a CRF450R brake pedal spring with the rubber over it (condom style). This helps with the vibration that the spring experiences, so it doesn't break. Orrrr, simply order a FAAST Co. rear brake return spring and you’re golden.

Failures: 

Two Rear Wheels broke (spokes ripped out)

One Top Valve Cover Gasket/Grommet leaked

Three Rear Brake Pedal Springs

One Rear Brake Pedal Brake Tip Broke Off (Rock in a rut impact)

Linkage nut fell off

To 250 Four Stroke or Not To 250 Four Stroke

Written By: Michael Allen

Some things in life are the way they are because they are that way; the sun is hot, the ocean is deep and gravity hurts. Moto also has things that just are the way they are; the smell of two-stroke race gas on cool days, early mornings bringing fond memories to a riders mind, having butterflies that give you that unexplainable exciting/nervous feeling just before the gate drops and the desire to constantly improve in the search for that elusive “perfect race”. While there are many great truths in the motocross world, there is one claimed “truth” that in my opinion is flat out wrong, has the potential to harm innocent riders whose macho ego overpowers their ability to look at themselves in the mirror and make a rational purchase. What I’m referring to is the falsehood that any vet type of rider needs to ride a 450 and if they don’t, they’re sissies who can’t handle a man’s bike. Well I’m here to hopefully shed some light, tell my story and give you a perspective on smaller bikes as a reasonable future purchase. 

We all know the rider: “I just bought a new (pick your color) 450 and I’m headed to Glen Helen to break it in on the main track. Back in my day I had a KX 500 that was a rocket ship and it’d rip your arms out of the damn sockets. Shit that’s a real man’s bike, I doubt the riders today could handle a 500 2-stroke. I’d buy one today if they made one, but I guess I’ll settle for this 4-stroke since I can’t buy the power I really need”. It doesn’t matter if you know this guy or you are this guy, the bottom line is that more than likely the moto memories you have of racing resembles a Toby Keith song; “you aren’t as good as you once was”. I’m just as guilty as anyone when it comes to remembering a better image of my racing self than probably ever existed, but once I learned the secret I’m about to let you in on, it made me feel like I was almost as good as I (thought) I once was. 

Once I was done racing (off-road) I got more into testing with Kris, whether it be off-road or moto I was open to riding anything. It didn’t take long before I realized that although I love going fast on the latest 450, I would always find myself holding on for dear life after the first few laps. I kept chalking it up to not being in as good of shape, maybe the track prep was bad, or whatever other excuse I could come up with that day to make myself feel better about my lack luster performance. It all came to a head at a local desert race that I raced on a 450. I figured how fast could the vet class be, I’d just ride the fast bike at a slower pace where I felt comfortable. I quickly found that at all of us that ride are wired similar! 

No matter if your five or fifty-five, if there is someone next to you holding the throttle wide open, your inner racer will beg you to keep your wrist twisted just a little longer than the guy next to you. We have all done it, the only difference is that this time it bit me at about 70mph as I sent myself cartwheeling across the desert disappearing into a cloud of dust and bike parts. One vomiting concussion, a broken collarbone, and a bruised ego later I realized that inner racer got the best of me. 

Once I healed up, I was itching to swing my leg back over a bike and once again prove to myself that I still had it; the only problem was that the first bike I was loaned to test was a YZ 125. I remember being grateful for having the opportunity to test, but at the same time thinking “why the hell am I testing a kids bike at 30 years old?” I squeezed into my size 32 gear (which was a little tight after sitting on the couch) swatted the toothpick sized kick start and headed over to the vet track for some warm up laps. After dusting off the cobwebs I started picking up the pace and that’s when it happened. I’ve always been told to listen to what your body is telling you and after a few more laps my old body could no longer be ignored. A sharp sensation hit me like a slap in the face, in fact it was a sensation that was not only felt on my face, it could be seen, so I went back to the truck to have a buddy give it a second look. When I pulled my helmet off at the truck a friend looked over at me and confirmed what I had been feeling, “what the hell are you so happy about?” The ear to ear grin on my face was reminiscent of Malcolm Smith in the closing credits of on any Sunday and that’s when it occurred to me. I hadn’t had that much fun on a dirt bike in years. Throughout that day I had probably rode more laps than I would in a week on a 450.

The reason for writing this isn’t to tell you that 450’s are worthless and nobody should buy one. In fact 450s are great for certain riders and scenarios, but I want you to be able to take a step back and objectively choose a bike that’s right for you, the type of rider you are and the type of riding you do. Every year I go to the Dubya USA vet nationals and see far too many older or unexperienced riders lining up with 50+ horsepower 450’s getting ready to roll the dice at 50 MPH going into Talladega. I say roll the dice because it’s not uncommon to see a crash just off the starting gate; like when Matthes got T-Boned damn near before the gate was even done falling. While it may sound cool to tell the cashier girl at the local bike shop that you ride a big bad 450, trust me, she’s about as likely to go home with you as you are to take Roczen’s place at Honda next year.

Obviously, everyone’s ability and preferences are different, but I think the average vet rider would be surprised at how much fun a 250f is on a motocross track. A lot of older riders haven’t even ridden a 250f since they ran their oil through the frame. I think the older crowd thinks of finicky carburetors, power that was comparable to 125s and bikes that are meant for kids transitioning to 450s. Unless you’re over 220lb, a 250f would not only have plenty of power for you on a motocross track, but you’d be amazed at how much longer you can ride when your shoulders aren’t being pulled out of their sockets and your forearms aren’t as hard as taking that little blue pill you may now need. In my opinion the perfect bike for a vet rider is the Yamaha YZ250F because out of the box it’s easy to ride, has the most user friendly low/mid power and a great fork for a broad range of riders. I’m not saying that the YZ250F is the only bike a vet rider should choose, it’s just that in my eyes it’s a quarter liter four stroke that is best suited for a vet rider. Maybe if you’re a little heavier, think about a YZ250, KTM 250SX or even a KTM/FC 350. Orrrrrr if you’re a little lighter and like revving, think about a KTM 150SX or YZ125. All I ask is that you do some research about what bike may be a good fit for you besides a 450. Again, I want to reiterate this by saying that 450cc+ bikes have their place in the vet rider world, just not in mine currently. If you’re going to get a dual sport or ride off-road in the desert, get a 450 if that’s what you’re in the market for. That being said, in most cases trust me, you’ll have more fun, be able to hold on tighter and ride longer on a smaller bike. Let your buddies talk all the smack they want because when you’re halfway through a moto and they’re pumped up like something fierce, you’ll cross the finish line with a smile looking forward to the second moto.

Helpful Suspension Set Up Tips

Suspension is hard to understand. Especially if you’re somewhat of a novice when it comes to setting up your bike. It took me a long time to understand what my bike was doing and how I could make it better. If you’re struggling to set up your suspension or maybe you just want to arm yourself with some knowledge, here are some tips to help you when you’re in your garage or out on the track.

Adjustments are there for you to “customize” your set up and feel on the track. The compression and rebound damping adjustments on your machine are known as your “clicker” adjustments. Making the correct changes with your clickers will make your bike handle better and give you a friendlier riding experience. Clickers control the amount of oil flow that is allowed to bypass your fork/shock valving stack. They work like a fuel screw and can fine tune your suspension.

A shock has both low-speed and high-speed compression adjustments. The low-speed adjuster controls the damping at low shock speed velocities like rolling whoops and acceleration bumps. The high-speed adjuster controls damping when the shock is moving at high speeds like g-outs, jump faces and can affect the ride height of the machine. If you’re on an older KYB PSF2 fork (may god be with you by the way) you’re stuck with high and low speed compression and high and low speed rebound. Before you start messing around with clicker adjustments here are some things you should do first:

Check where your clickers are set at and write them down.

Start out with recommended stock settings first for baseline.

Adjust your tire pressure for the type of riding and terrain. 13-14 psi is usually standard.

Make sure you have the correct spring rate for your weight and set your sag.

Bleed the air out of the forks every time you ride, if you have a spring fork.

If using air forks, makes sure to check air pressure and if you’re on AER forks, there is an air bleed for them as well.

Start off by riding your machine with your clickers set in the stock position. This will give you a good base setting of how your bike handles. Ride only a few laps (2-4) at a time when you try new settings so you will not be second guessing your initial impression of each adjustment. When you stay out too long you will start to second guess your initial thoughts. Ride the same lines/bumps every lap so you get a feel for the changes you make and do not ride around the bumps you are trying to test on. If you change lines this will alter your perception of how well your stuff is working. Cheating doesn’t nothing for you here! This will only hurt you in the long run, so buck up and take the rough line! Make changes to your clickers 1-2 “clicks” at a time and one adjustment at a time (rebound or compression). Changing compression and rebound on the fork and shock at the same time can confuse you as to what setting is actually improving your machine. There is the old 2 for 1, which is for every two clicks of compression you go in or out on rebound. For example, if you’re on a KYB spring fork and you go two clicks in stiffer, you might want to back out one click of rebound to compensate for the stiffer comp setting. For beginners, just chill down and do one adjustment at a time. Soft terrain usually requires more compression damping (stiffer) because the bumps are softer in nature and usually taller. Same goes for when the bumps are soft/big and spaced further apart, so in that situation the machine can require a slower rebound damping to minimize kick. If there is a hard base underneath, the bumps will usually be closer together and square edges will develop. In this case a softer/faster setting can be used, especially when speeds are higher.

 You can also run your front end higher (drop your fork height) and the rear end lower (higher sag number) if possible for stability, to combat any twitchiness your bike may have.

On hard pack dirt it is better to adjust the rebound and compression to a softer setting while still maintaining control and bottoming resistance. Try to find a happy medium between bottoming and comfort. It’s ok to bottom out once or even twice a lap, so don’t freak out if you bottom out once in a while. That doesn’t mean you need to stiffen your suspension if you’re bottoming out. All of your suspension is meant to be used, that’s why it’s there, so let it do its job. If you are bottoming out more than that, you would adjust your compression clickers to a stiffer setting. Adjusting your rebound damping to a stiffer setting will help if your bike feels unstable (loose feel) or if you are blowing through the stroke on jump faces. In very rare cases adjusting the rebound clicker one way or the other could work. While it is common to stiffen the shock rebound when your bike kicks over bumps (because you feel like it’s bucking you), many times it is caused by compression that is too stiff. Try going one or two clicks softer/faster to see if it soaks up the bumps and calms the chassis down. If that doesn’t seem to help check your riding position on the bike or yes, it could be that your rebound is too fast/soft. Getting the shock to not “kick” on top of jumps is difficult to diagnose so be ready to try both sides of the spectrum with rebound on this type of tricky obstacle.

Again, be patient. Designate a day where you just play around with your settings and get familiar with your bike. I feel like suspension tuning is kind of like dating. You must learn your partner before you can get married right? Getting a balanced, comfortable suspension setting is no different than dating. Get to know your bike before you decide to dump it and blame it all on her. Maybe it’s you? Maybe you didn’t give it a chance? Play around and see what works for you. If the rear of your bike kicks to the side, the cause can be that it’s too stiff of a setting. Again, try one adjustment at a time. Lack of traction (wheel spin) on acceleration bumps can usually be improved by softening the low-speed compression on the shock or speeding up the rebound, so the rear tire follows the ground better. Keep in mind that faster riders generally prefer stiffer settings to maintain control at speed (performance) while slower riders prefer softer settings for comfort

When it comes to air forks messing with the air pressure can be a pain. Just to let all you know, 2 psi is one full spring rate on any air fork, so that is why I usually adjust using “bar”, not psi. How many times have you changed a spring out at the track? Not very much right? Unless you are very light or on the heavier side, the stock air pressure settings from the factory are usually a great place to start and keep within .2-.4 bar (softer or stiffer). Adjusting your compression and rebound clickers on air forks is much easier and a simpler way to dial in these types of forks. Air pressure will change throughout the day as heat builds up, so if you are checking your air pressure in the middle of the day, make sure the fork is cooled down to ambient air temperature.

Follow some of these easy steps and I can guarantee you that you will get your set up even better and enjoy riding that dirt bike of yours even more. If you have any set up questions you can email me at kris@keeferinctesting.com as we will always try to be here for you!

2022 Honda CRF450R baseline Settings

Even though the Honda hasn’t changed much for 2022, Showa as well as Honda worked on creating more hold up from the suspension. This lead us to create another baseline setting for you 2022 owners. The ECU has also been updated, but there is still some lean pop on de-cel so we are currently working/looking into one type of stock ECU reflash to see if we can get it better. However, compared to the 2021, the ECU is much cleaner upon throttle delivery and has more connection to the rear wheel. We also took it a step further this year and matched up some traction control settings to map settings for you to try at your local track. There are two combinations below that we think can help you lower your lap times and make big red easier to ride. As always if you have questions about your new Honda, we will always try to help, so email us at kris@keeferinctesting.com if you have some thoughts/questions.  

Optional Suspension Setting: 

The stock suspension for 2022 is a firmer feel and to us that is a step in the right direction. However it still might be too soft for you if you’re anywhere over 180 pounds. Honda has a 5.0 N/m fork spring that is adequate for most, but even with the having more low speed compression damping for 2022, once broken in it might be a tad soft for riders north of 180. Out back the 54 N/m shock spring is a little soft, but the 2022 valving is much better on high speed compression so going to a stiffer spring was not warranted for my 170 pound frame. If you’re over 190 pounds then I would recommend going to a 56 N/mm spring with the correlating clicker adjustments. This will help the Honda from riding too low in the stroke under acceleration when you’re pushing 200 pounds. However, with the 54 N/mm spring and the 2022 valving the CRF450R has more rear wheel traction and added comfort on small chop so trying the clicker adjustments set to the 54 N/mm spring is worth a shot first. Remember, if you’re near 200 pounds and not into spending more money on a re-valve at this time, simply get some heavier springs and try this setting: 

 Fork: (170-200 pounds)

 Spring Rate: 51 N/mm

 Height: Flush

 Comp: 10 out

 Rebound: 12 out

Shock: (170-180 pounds)

 Spring Rate: 54 N/mm 

 L/S Comp: 11 clicks out

 H/S Comp: 2 1/2 clicks out

 Rebound: 9-10 clicks out

 Sag: 105mm

Shock: (180-200 pounds)

 Spring Rate: 56 N/mm 

 L/S Comp: 13 clicks out

 H/S Comp: 2 3/4 clicks out

 Rebound: 11 clicks out

 Sag: 105mm

Torque Specs:

I still prefer going to these torque specs on the 2022 Honda CRF450R. I spent a few more days experimenting with torque settings on the 2022 and have came up with the spec chart below. What these updated torque specs do for you is slightly improve the bump compliancy and front/rear wheel traction of the 2022 CRF450R. This isn’t a cure all, but you will feel a little extra comfort in your red ride. If you don’t see a torque spec on a portion of the bike that is not below, don’t freak out, just go with the stock recommended torque spec. I experimented with a lot of different parts of the chassis with torque specs and the bolts/nuts below make the mosts difference on the red machine.  It may not seem like much, but it’s the little things on this bike that can make the Honda chassis FUN for the average guy. Out of all of the machines that I have experimented with on torque settings, this bike reacts the most to it, so pay attention to your nuts/bolts on your Honda! Follow the torque spec sheet below and make sure to blue Loc-Tite the bolts/nuts on each to ensure you have no issues down the road.

Rear Axle Nut (Qty. 1): 

Stock: 128 Nm

Updated Spec: 120 Nm

Fork Top Clamp Pinch Bolts (Qty. 4):

Stock: 22 Nm

Updated Spec: 19 Nm

Fork Bottom Clamp Pinch Bolts (Qty. 4):

Stock: 20 Nm

Updated Spec: 16-17 Nm

Swingarm Pivot Nut (Qty. 1):

Stock: 88 Nm

Updated Spec: 81 Nm

Front Engine Hanger Plate Bolts (Qty. 4):

Stock: 26 Nm

Updated Spec: 24 Nm

Front Engine Hanger Plate Nut (Qty. 1):

Stock: 54 Nm

Updated Spec: 51 Nm

Cylinder Head Hanger Bolt (Qty.2):

Stock 54 Nm

Updated Spec: 51 Nm

Cylinder head Hanger Plate Bolts (Qty 4):

Stock: 32 Nm

Updated Spec: 29 Nm

Shock Absorber Upper Mounting Bolt (Qty. 1): 

Stock: 44 Nm

Updated Spec: 42 Nm

Traction Control/Map Switch: 

This is something I did not play with much the last couple years on the Honda CRF450R. Sometimes I get caught up with the chassis of this motorcycle so much that I forget to play with the other options Honda has to offer the rider. Below are a couple combinations of map/TC settings for you to try on certain types of tracks. 

Track Type/Condition: Afternoon when track still has some traction available, but also has loose dirt on top with acceleration chop in ruts. 

Map 1/TC1

With the map switch set to 1 and TC on 1 this gave me more control of the machine under throttle when track was going away slightly. Most of the time these conditions happened around lunch time (if track was open at 9AM) when lines were formed and ruts were established. With the TC on 1 through choppy ruts it allowed for more rear wheel traction and a less harsh feeling from the rear of the machine. I honestly wouldn’t rule this setting out in the morning when lines weren’t established and you need to find some traction on freshly tilled/watered dirt. If you’re looking to keep the low end excitement but gain just a hair less of throttle response try the map 1/TC 1 combo.

Track Type/Condition: Late afternoon when track is beat up with blown out lines with all the good traction pushed off, or the dirt has dug down far enough to where it’s hard pack.

Map 1/TC3 

With the map switch still on map 1 and TC now on 3 this gives the rider a much more heavier low end chugging feel (almost like a long rod feeling) with less excitement on 2nd-3rd gear roll on. Some of you may ask why not just put it on map 2 with TC on 1-2, but to me that combo gas me less connection from my throttle hand to rear wheel. It almost made the bike feel much heavier than I like. With map 1/TC3 the Honda CRF450R gave me a good throttle to rear wheel feel without it feeling heavy in corners. I felt like I had more tire contact patch on lean, under loose/hard dirt and that gave me confidence to roll throttle on earlier exiting corners. 

2022 Yamaha YZ450F Baseline Settings/Tips

The 2021 and 2022 Yamaha YZ450F’s are almost identical minus some suspension valving changes (increased mid-high speed damping), lighter rear wheel with a spoke lacing pattern that is a 3X not a 2X, lighter sprocket, as well as a lighter chain. For a bike that used to get some shade thrown its way in the professional motocross racing world, this Yamaha YZ450F is now the 2021 AMA Motocross Champ! This bike also has treated me really well in my racing goals the past couple years. I have won a Loretta Lynn’s title as well as a Vet World Championship on the exact same machine and haven’t had a huge maintenance list to go through.

Is the Yamaha YZ450F the slimmest bike? No. Does it corner the best? No. Does it have the best cockpit? Absolutely not. I am the type of rider who would rather have stability than the best cornering machine! The Yamaha is a great middle of the road machine that does everything good. Below are some key settings, as well as mods, that I have rolled over into my 2022 YZ450F since I picked it up a while ago. These can help you drop your lap times, give you more comfort on the track and make a good bike, GREAT!

Suspension:If you’re sticking with stock valving the 2022 Yamaha YZ450F’s suspension, just know that Yamaha did some significant changes to the valving to get some extra hold up. This means that the baseline settings from 2021 are null and void. Yes, the fork is still slightly soft (once suspension is broke in) at times under hard braking at speed. Going slower on the action, stiffening the compression, as well as lowering he fork in the triple clamp really helps the whole bike remain planted around the track (with less low front end feel coming into corners). The comfort that the KYB SSS fork/suspension has is unmatched and the track toughness it provides makes your life so much less stressful on set up. This setting below will work for most riders ranging from 165-195 pounds with no gear.

Fork: 

Height: 3mm

Compression: 7 clicks out

Rebound: 9-10 clicks out

Shock:

Sag: 104mm

Low Speed Compression: 8 clicks out

High Speed Compression: 7/8 turns out

Rebound: 10-11 clicks out

Important Spec Adjustments: 

Chain Slack: 55-60mm

Recommended Torque Settings: These recommended torque settings help the Yamaha's chassis be slightly more compliant over braking bumps/acceleration bumps.

Front Axle 80 ft. Lbs.

Pinch Bolts 15 ft. Lbs. 

Rear Axle Nut: 85-90 ft. Lbs. 

Engine/Power Tuner App: I have tried several maps on the YZ450F, but have always came back to the two below. The stock engine has a lot of bark (rpm response) from 0-10% throttle opening and for the tracks that we have out here (on the west coast) it’s too much at times. For you east coast riders try the “TP Magic Map1” as that should be enough bottom to mid range delivery to get you out of that soft soil, yet keep it manageable/linear to hold onto for a 20 minute moto (YES, I AM JEALOUS OF YOUR DIRT!). For all the rest of you, try the TP 3.0 map (on Keeferinctesting.com) as that is the map that I use 80% of the time. The linear/easy to roll on throttle delivery along with the longer pulling power that this map has makes it a tractor around the track. This makes connection to the rear wheel much more apparent with this TP version. Yes, these maps will also work on your 2019 YZ450F, so give them a try.…

Seat: If there is one problem area of the Yamaha it is the seat. The seat still breaks down quickly and can feel clapped out. This makes you feel like you're riding “in” the Yamaha and not on top. I am sticking with a standard height/density GUTS foam which is actually a little firmer than the OEM foam. The foam density will not break down as much as the OEM foam. 

MX3S or Pirelli MX32 Mid-Soft Front Tire: Yamaha will not want to hear this, but I feel the Yamaha corners better with a Dunlop MX3S or a Pirelli MX32 Mid-Soft front tire rather than the stock MX33. If you’re having trouble with initial lean into corners, get yourself a Dunlop MX3S or Pirelli MX32 Mid-Soft front and thank me later.

Gearing:I tried a 13/50 gearing set up for all you novice riders, but it didn't work as good as the stock 13/49 set up. The stock gearing is just fine for 90% of tracks because the Yamaha’s engine has so much torque that it can pull third gear. Yes, even for you novice riders! Third gear is that “lugable” that you will not stall through corners, just make sure to cover the clutch lever.

Triple Clamps/Offset: The Yamaha YZ450F doesn't need aftermarket triple clamps nor does it need an offset change (but I am trying some aftermarket clamps soon to see if it causes any rigidity). The rigidity balance that the stock clamp has is a blend of comfort and performance that is hard to find with aftermarket clamps. Still having a hard time in corners? Don’t purchase clamps yet, chill down, simply go to a 102mm shock sag setting or go back to a fork height of 5mm. I suggest trying one or the other, not both at the same time. This keeps balance as well as keep the superb bump absorption of the chassis/clamps. Some other machines accept aftermarket clamps better than others, but this Yamaha has a lot of comfort/performance with the stock clamp. Don’t go backwards on your set up by purchasing parts you don’t need!

Muffler: I go back and forth between the Pro Circuit, FMF and Akrapovic muffler systems if I am not running the stock muffler. All these systems are smoother off the bottom end and pull more in the mid range than the stocker. I like this because it can actually calm the chassis down a little on acceleration bumps. There is nothing wrong with the stock system, but if you MUST get an aftermarket system go with one of these two brands. If you can find one these days! Tough to do right now. 

Vortex ECU: I haven’t been that vocal about this mod because it’s so hard to justify spending $800-1000 bucks on an ignition when the Yamaha ECU/Power Tuner app is so good. However after working on a ton of settings on the standard ECU, I decided to try the Vortex to see if I could make the power broader versus the stock ECU. I have worked on settings with Chad from XPR and I can say that we have spent many days at the track trying to make the Yamaha not spool up so quick (light or short crank/rod feel). You might be asking yourself, “what the hell is spool up”? The Yamaha has a quick revving light crank feel and sometimes that feeling can cause lack of rear end traction when exiting corners. The rear tire can light up when trying to exit corners under hard acceleration and that can get tough to manage at the end of a long moto. Now this is great when traction is high and the dirt is deep, but once the track gets rough, this Yamaha can be too much to handle compared to a KTM or Husqvarna. Adjusting the ECU via Power Tuner App helps a little, but for safety reasons Yamaha only allows certain parameters, but the Vortex ECU has a wider range of adjustment. Adding the Vortex ECU helps lessen engine braking and also gives the Yamaha a longer power character (almost a long rod feel). Now usually when you get less engine braking in any particular engine character you might feel a more free feeling engine, but with the mapping that Chad created, it makes the power more controllable with less pitching off throttle. The maps that we came up with help rear wheel traction out of corners, allows the rider to ride in third gear even easier, yet allows me to use second gear longer out of corners. Once I got a map (with the Vortex) that wasn’t too powerful, I have noticed an improvement in chassis feel when the track gets rough. The YZ450F can be pushed harder through bumpy conditions now that the delivery of the Yamaha is much broader with less engine braking. I would recommend anyone looking to get more connection as well as more power to get with Chad and ask for the Keefer World Vet map.

Optional 2021-2022 Kawasaki KX450 Maps

Here are two sets of maps to try on your 2021-2022 Kawasaki KX450. The Chavez map will help the jerky throttle response from 0-10% throttle opening and give you increased mid range power. The smooth map will help rear wheel traction on slippery hard pack tracks.

Smooth Map:

Chavez Map:

Weekend Race Set Up: Glen Helen 4/10/21

I always thought it would be cool to share the notes that I create after a race with the reader. 98% of the time I will input notes about each test bike/part I decide to race any given weekend. The part as well as the bikes change from time to time, but I always like to have a log of what I ran as well as the conditions of each race. Below is a brief breakdown on the bikes, parts as well as notes on how each performed or felt. Last weekend we brought two bikes to race (Yamaha YZ450F and KTM 250 SX-F). Below are two breakdowns of what was on each machine and how each machine fared in race conditions. Each time my son and I race, you can check back here to keeferinctesting.com every Tuesday (when we race the previous weekend)  for “The Weekend Race Set Up”.

Track: Glen Helen Raceway

Kris Keefer

Terrain: Sandy top soil AM with hard pack in PM 

Start: Dirt

Avg Lap Time: 2:20

Total Number Of Motos: 5 motos (Three 20 minute plus 1 lap motos and 2 15 minute motos)

Weight At Time Of Race: 170 pounds w/o gear

2021 Yamaha YZ450F: 

Engine Hours 45.6

Mods/Parts: 

Tires: Dunlop MX3S/MX33 13.5/12.5 PSI 

Bars: Pro Taper SX Race Evo

Grips: Renthal Half Waffle Soft

Levers: ARC RC-8 Perch/Lever

Throttle: ZRT 

Rider Triangle: -5mm down and back peg position/stock bar height/rear hole

Gearing: 13/49 Renthal Sprockets/DID ERT3 Chain

Engine Mods: Vortex ECU Mapped By XPR/FMF 4.1 Full System

Engine Oil: Blud Racing 10/40 Pro Series

Fuel: VP T4

Holeshot Device: WC

Graphics/Seat: Era Moto Co

Suspension: Enzo Racing Test Fork/Shock Spec #KK145

Air Filter: Twin Air Power Flow Kit 

Plastic: Cycra Power Flow Kit

Results: 1st 40A (1-1-1), 1st Support Expert (1-1)

Notes: 

• GH World Vet ECU setting allowed third gear corners without on/off area 2 feel. Power was controlled and easy to manage late in motos.

• YZ450F feels slightly heavy on entry of shallow ruts.

• Fork has better comfort when ridden at race pace. Not too much comfort on initial stroke (light bump).

• Shock sag at 105mm made for acceptable balance, but sped up rebound +1 click to compensate for choppy conditions so rear can follow ground more.

• WC start device was better off the gate when set at 120mm for dirt start.

• Updated rider triangle (-5mm/-10 back pegs) allows for less leg fatigue. Legs were fresher at end of motos. 

• GUTS standard seat foam is firmer than stock OEM foam and last longer. (12.1 hours on foam and density still holding up).

Suspension Setting: 

Fork: (Spec #KK145F)

C: 10

R: 10

Height: 3mm

Shock: (Spec #KK144S)

LSC: 10

HSC: 1.25

R: 9

Sag: 105mm

Track: Glen Helen Raceway

Aden Keefer

Terrain: Sandy top soil AM with hard pack in PM 

Start: Dirt

Avg Lap Time: 2:24

Total Number Of Motos: 2 motos (Two 15 minute plus 1 lap motos)

Weight At Time Of Race: 130 pounds w/o gear

2021 KTM 250 SX-F:

 Engine Hours 7.8

Mods/Parts: 

Tires: Dunlop MX3S/MX33 13.5/12.5 PSI 

Bars: Pro Taper Evo Suzuki Race Team

Grips: Pro Taper 1/3 Waffle Race Cut

Levers: Stock

Throttle: ZRT Grey Cam 

Rider Triangle: Stock

Gearing: 14/51 Sunstar Sprockets/DID ERT3 Chain

Engine Mods: Head Mod XPR Motorsports, Custom HC Piston, Vortex ECU Mapped By XPR/Akrapovic Slip On

Engine Oil: Blud Racing 10/40 Pro Series

Fuel: VP MR Pro 6

Holeshot Device: WC

Graphics/Seat: Throttle Syndicate

Suspension: REP Racing Test Fork/Shock Spec #AK3

Air Filter: Twin Air Power Flow Kit 

Results: 1st Intermediate Support 

Notes: 

• REP AER setting was set at 9.90 bar but we increased to 9.92 bar for hold up on hills.

• Fork comfort on bigger braking bump was better than stock setting and fork mid stroke improved with air at 9.92. 

• Fork comfort on small/light bump/accel was better with Pro Taper Evo bar versus Fuzion.

• Shock felt low on accel. Turned HSC in 1/4 turn. Helped balance

• Aden wants more low end hit so we will try FMF 4.1 system instead of Akrapovic slip on.

• 120mm holeshot device setting was better for light rider off dirt start.

Suspension Setting:

Fork: (Spec #AK3F)

C: 13

R: 11

Height: 5mm

Air: 9.90-9.92 Bar 

Shock: (Spec #AK3S)

LSC: 14

HSC: 1.5

R: 12

Sag: 105mm

2021 250/450 Motocross Gearing Specs

I have spent a lot of time testing on each 2021 machine you see below. I went back and forth on several bikes to see which gearing would be good for the average rider. I did my evaluations on tight clay based tracks to flowing sandier based type desert courses. Since the word “gearing” is still in the subject line in a lot of my emails, I thought I would condense some of the best gearing specs I have come up with for the 2021 MX test machines so far. A couple of these gearing specs have evolved since 2020 so don’t expect some of these to be the same from last year. I DO NOT however just change the gearing for the sake of changing the gearing, like some other media testing outlets. However, if a certain bike does need an engine character change or maybe the transmission spacing needs help, we will try different gearing. These gearing specs are for stock engines or with aftermarket mufflers. If you have engine work done to your bike, chances are you could change gearing on a few of these machines. I also attached a couple links to some ECU maps (to a few bikes) that I preferred, to compliment the recommended gearing specs. As usual if you have any questions I am here to help you. Email kris@keeferinctesting.com and I will be happy to assist you. 

Yamaha: 

YZ250F: Stock 13/50 Recommended 13/50 ECU: (Keefer Free Feeling Map)

YZ450F: Stock 13/49 Recommended 13/49 or 14/53 ECU: (TP 3.0 or 5.0)  The 14/53 gearing will help the chassis settle more on acceleration as well as help calm the bike on de-cel. This also keeps third gear usable in almost all track conditions.

Kawasaki: 

KX250: Stock/Recommended 13/50  ECU: (Keefer Map) You can view the KX 250 map here: https://www.keeferinctesting.com/motocross-testing/2020/1/6/2020-kawasaki-kx250-top-5-mods

KX450: Stock 13/50 Recommended 13/51 ECU: (Keefer Map) You can view the KX450 map here: https://www.keeferinctesting.com/motocross-testing/2019/8/25/2020-kawasaki-kx450-reviewbaseline-settings.

Going to a 13/51, instead of the stock 13/50 gearing, helps the rider get into third gear quicker coming out of corners. The stock 13/50 will not pull third gear in corners without using a lot of clutch.

Suzuki:

2020 RM-Z250: Stock/Recommended 13/50 White coupler (Stock)

2020 RM-Z450: Stock 13/50 Recommended 13/51 White coupler (Helps pulling power down low on deep tracks)

Honda:

CRF250R: Stock 13/48 Recommended: 13/49 (Helps rider get into third gear earlier and gives more pulling power without sacrificing second gear roll on). The stock 13/48 makes second and third gear feel super short/close together, but the 13/49 will allow you to just run third gear in corners.)

CRF450R: Stock 13/49 Recommended: 13/49 Unlike last year’s Honda CRF450R, the new hydraulic clutch is a tight fit for a 14T countershaft and I just don’t trust it because it is too damn close to the slave cylinder. 

KTM: 

This set up on all three bikes will help settle the rear end out of corners/square edge/braking bumps. It will also help 2nd-3rd gear recovery as well as transition between each gear. 

250 SX-F: Stock 14/51 Recommended 14/52 

350 SX-F: Stock 14/51 Recommended 14/53

450 SX-F: Stock 13/49 Recommended 14/52

Husqvarna: 

This set up on all three bikes will help settle the rear end out of corners and help with 2nd-3rd gear transition exiting corners.

FC 250: Stock 14/51 Recommended 14/52

FC350: Stock 14/51 Recommended 14/52

FC450: Stock 13/49 Recommended 14/52 

Gas Gas:

This set up on both bikes will help settle the rear end out of corners and help with 2nd-3rd gear transition exiting corners.

MC 250: Stock 14/51 Recommended 14/52

MC 450: Stock 13/49 Recommended 14/52