Mods That Will Make You Love Your 2021 Honda CRF450R More

You have no idea how much I love/hate this 2021 Honda CRF450R/WE. This bike calls my name every time I walk out into the shop and like the sucker that I am, I always crawl back to it. Some of my best days at the track have come on the 2021 Honda CRF450R and also some of my worst. Even though the 2021 machine is less finicky than the 2020 version, it’s still tough to obtain a consistent level of comfort, out of the Honda’s chassis, from track to track. I am determined (for me and for you) to make it comfortable to go fast on and hit bumps at speed without feeling like I “HAVE” to find the smooth line. Here are a few things that I have been messing with a lot lately that is actually bringing me closer to the Honda CRF450R. No, it’s not as comfortable as a Yamaha or Kawasaki in the chassis department, but doing these mods below really has helped me take the Honda out of the shop and into my van for a happy moto day.

ECU:

Yes, you already know to get your stock ECU re-flashed from your Honda dealer right? Good! This will help make like a lot easier on you once out on the track. From what I am told this ECU update is basically the 2022 setting, so we all should be good to go on this updated stock ECU. However, if you want to take it a step further and go with a Vortex, I am not going to tell you no. A Vortex mapped by Chad at XPR or Jamie at Twisted Development really does help calm the chassis down, by giving it a longer/more linear type of power. Yes, it’s expensive at around 1K, but if you’re a serious rider this mod is worth the money! I have spent my own money on a few Vortex ECU’s on various machines and have always came back blown away. Plus they have great resale value! Get more rear wheel connection and more of a seamless power character from either of these tuners. You can always email me to get more of a background on either one of these gentlemen tuners. *If you are wondering if you should get your stock ECU re-flashed from one of these tuners or get the Honda OEM re-flash, I am always going to tell you to go with the OEM in-house re-flash*. 

Optional Suspension Setting: 

 The stock suspension might be too soft for you if you’re anywhere over 180 pounds. Honda has a 5.0 N/m fork spring that is adequate for most, but the valving seems too soft. Out back the 54 N/m shock spring is also way too soft, so if you’re looking for a quick band aid to make your Honda CRF450R better, without going to a re-valve, going a spring rate up on each end has helped me feel more secure on high speed tracks, as well as soft bumpy tracks. Bringing both ends up a little in the stroke (with the heavier spring rates) has given me more front/rear wheel traction as well a Honda that corners better without over-steering. Unlike the 2020 Honda CRF450R going up a spring rate on the 2021 version has given the new red bike more track toughness. If you’re not into spending more money on a re-valve at this time, simply get some heavier springs and try this setting:

 Fork: 

 Spring Rate: 5.1 N/m

 Height: Flush-2mm

 Comp: 11-12 out

 Rebound: 11 out

 Shock:

 Spring Rate: 56 N/m

 L/S Comp: 12 clicks out

 H/S Comp: 2 3/4 clicks out

 Rebound: 10 clicks out

 Sag: 105-106mm

Throttle Tube:If you’re like me and think that the Honda CRF450R throttle tube is too fat feeling, go with a stronger, better feeling throttle tube of the ZRT. Tom over at ZRT turns these throttle tubes down a little on the lath, so they have a smaller OD size and have an easier twist because of the bearing ZRT incorporates with the throttle tube. I was skeptical about this throttle before using it, but since I put it on my KTM test bike, I have been running them on almost all of my bikes here and have been extremely happy with the product. They are a little pricey at almostst 200 bucks, but they are bulletproof, give you a buttery twist, and feel less fat in your right hand! Plus for being a aluminum throttle tube, the extra vibration is very minimal. 

Handlebars/Vibration:Get a set of Pro Taper bars and get a little less vibration and more flex than the Renthal Fatbars. I currently run a Suzuki Race Team PT EVO bar (same as 996 Renthal) that will be on sale soon to the public. If you can’t wait for the Suzuki RT bend, go with a SX Race or YZ High bend (for rider height 5’8-6’1) from Pro Taper. 

Muffler:Putting an aftermarket muffler system on isn’t necessarily about more horsepower, but about changing the character of the engine in a way that the Honda needs. I went out and tested three different versions of what FMF is about to offer the consumer and the one I chose looks to be the one that will go into production. So what does the 4.1 system do? What I liked about the 4.1 system right off the bat is that it calmed down the vibration feel that I get on the Honda. For whatever reason bolting on the 4.1 helped the harmonic vibration that I get when hitting higher RPM’s from the stock muffler. This actually gave the Honda more comfort, because it felt less rigid! The 4.1 also made the engine character broader with better low end RPM response, but with a smoother roll on. Mid range is increased as well as slightly more top end/over-rev in 2nd/3rd gears. Before you email me and tell me you CAN'T get the FMF 4.1 for your new Honda, chill down... I know... It's coming!

Torque Settings:For 2021, I thought I would revisit some torque specs on the CRF450R chassis and see if it helps as much as it did with the 2020 CRF450R. I spent a few days experimenting with torque settings and have came up with the spec chart below. What these updated torque specs do is slightly improve the bump compliancy and front/rear wheel traction of the 2021 CRF450R. This isn’t a cure all, but you will feel a little extra comfort in your red ride. If you don’t see a torque spec on a portion of the bike that is not below, don’t freak out, just go with the stock recommended torque spec. I experimented with a lot of different parts of the chassis with torque specs and the bolts/nuts below make the mosts difference on the red machine.  It may not seem like much, but it’s the little things on this bike that can make the Honda chassis FUN for the average guy. Out of all of the machines that I have experimented with on torque settings, this bike reacts the most to it, so pay attention to your nuts/bolts on your Honda! 

Follow the torque spec sheet below and make sure to blue Loc-Tite the bolts/nuts on each to ensure you have no issues down the road.

Rear Axle Nut (Qty. 1): 

Stock: 128 Nm

Updated Spec: 120 Nm

Fork Top Clamp Pinch Bolts (Qty. 4):

Stock: 22 Nm

Updated Spec: 19 Nm

Fork Bottom Clamp Pinch Bolts (Qty. 4):

Stock: 20 Nm

Updated Spec: 16-17 Nm

Swingarm Pivot Nut (Qty. 1):

Stock: 88 Nm

Updated Spec: 81 Nm

Front Engine Hanger Plate Bolts (Qty. 4):

Stock: 26 Nm

Updated Spec: 24 Nm

Front Engine Hanger Plate Nut (Qty. 1):

Stock: 54 Nm

Updated Spec: 51 Nm

Cylinder Head Hanger Bolt (Qty.2):

Stock 54 Nm

Updated Spec: 51 Nm

Cylinder head Hanger Plate Bolts (Qty 4):

Stock: 32 Nm

Updated Spec: 29 Nm

Shock Absorber Upper Mounting Bolt (Qty. 1):

Stock: 44 Nm

Updated Spec: 42 Nm

Things You Can’t Do To Your 2021 That You Could With Your 2020: 

Gearing:You can’t install a 14 tooth countershaft sprocket without damaging the hydraulic clutch slave cylinder so don't do it! 

24mm Offset Clamps:Currently no one is making a 24mm offset clamp for the 2021 CRF450R at the time of this article. However, you can use a 2020 24mm offset clamp if you go with the 2020 front fender and number plate combo. The 24mm offset helps calm the chassis down under acceleration as well as help decrease rigidity feel. This was all a plus for me on the 2021 CRF450R. Installing a 24mm offset clamp with the fork height at 4mm gives the rider a more positive feel when the track gets beat up and rutty. Ride Engineering is currently working on a 23.5mm offset clamp that I will be doing a review on shortly. My two top clamps for this model would be either a X-Trig ROCS or Ride Engineering Split Clamp. 

Vibration: 

If you’re noticing a vibration up through your pegs into your handlebars on low RPM (4000-6000 RPM) try this with your 2021 CRF450R engine. I stumbled across this mod when Chad at XPR unexpectedly did this to my 2020 CRF450R without me even knowing. When I came off the track and commented I felt less vibration though my feet/handlebars as well as a better initial lean coming into corners he was kind of blown away. Since then I have tried this on another 2021 CRF450R and got similar results, so I thought it was worth mentioning to you. The first step to tilting your CRF 450R engine in the chassis is to loosen off all motor mounts and engine hangers,(without completely removing the bolts or nuts) seeing how you are going to have to quickly tighten the motor mounting nuts while holding the engine in place. This includes the swingarm pivot bolt, lower engine bolt, three upper engine bolts that mount to frame and engine, finally the left and right engine hangers on the sides of the frame and engine. Next step is to find a long flat blade screw driver or a longer tire iron works best. Place the tire iron or screw driver in between the frame and the engine in the middle of the lower engine bolt and the upper engine bolts. By pushing down on the tire iron or screw driver you will notice the motor lift up and back in the chassis. While continuing to push down on the tire iron or screw driver begin to tighten the three upper engine bolts/nuts first and then the lower engine bolt /nut. Get these nuts and bolts tight enough to hold the engine in place without the motor sliding down again. Torque these four nuts to the manufacturers specifications then move to the swing arm axle nut and finally to the engine hanger bolts and torque them to the manufacturers specifications.

Hopefully some of these inexpensive tips help you get some added happiness out of your 2021 CRF450R! Email me at kris@keeferinctesting.com and tell me how it's going!

2020 Kawasaki KX450 Engine/Suspension Updates (Living With Series)

Written By: Joe Oehlhof

If your like me after having a bike for a few months you begin to get a little more particular with your bike and start wanting to try different things. If you read my article on the building of this bike (for the Vet National at Glen Helen) you know I threw a lot of things at it in a short amount of time and got the opportunity to try some high dollar modifications. You would also know that once I raced the event I wasn't necessarily pleased with my result and felt I lost a bit of that comfy feeling I once had with this bike. Initially I thought it was due to not racing at those speeds and pushing my limits, but in the weeks after I couldn't get that feeling back. I was somewhat puzzled and decided to go back to the stock base and start over. The reason for this wasn't because I didn't believe the modifications I had done weren't the right ones, but I knew there was a couple areas that needed a tweak here and there to find that feel. This is one of the things that’s hard about testing as well as fine tuning a bike, you can get lost and off track, but still be really close to that ultimate setting. I felt this was where I was exactly at, so going back to my opening statement, I started to try different things. 

 The first area I focused on was the suspension, but mainly the shock. In stock form the shock has some decent comfort, has a softer initial feel, which can give you comfort in those smaller acceleration bumps yet can provide predictable traction when the track begins to dry out and conditions worsen. For a guy who is 190 pounds like myself or an intermediate to pro level rider, the stock shock wallows a little on rolling whoops or g-outs and can bottom on big landings. It also tends to squat a smidge too much when exiting turns, which can result in a harsh feeling. I took the info I had and talked to my guy Luke at Pro Circuit and he said he had a couple different settings he'd been working on that addressed the issues I had. Now as you may also know I did have the A-kit cartridge set up for the Showa forks when I raced the Vet Nats. I unfortunately I couldn't keep those, so I had PC set up my stock forks for a comparison and additionally I wanted to do some lower budget items for those frugal consumers like myself.

Let's start with the forks… Obviously the Pro Circuit A -kit cartridges are better with bump absorption, small chop/big bumps, is excellent on hard landings, as well as slap down landings. The best feature of the A-kit is the traction, lean angles on sweepers,  lean angle on hard braking, traction under hard braking in braking bumps is excellent and allows you to charge most situations. However my question was how will the stock forks stack up? The stockers were actually closer than I originally thought. They soak up hard landings/slap downs, big bump absorption is great as is small bump absorption and I still feel confident charging into braking bumps. The only areas where the A-kit performs better is when I am looking for traction while in sweepers and hard braking. So the question is what is the best bang for your buck? That depends on your situation, but the A- kit is better due to simply better internal technology/tolerances and if you're a serious racer, it’s definitely worth the money. If not, the PC stock re-valve  is still a very good option that will allow you to push the green bike’s limits and still be comfortable.

The previous shock that PC did was just a tad on the stiff side on that initial part of the stroke, which if I was able to ride faster would have probably been fine, but at my age and unwillingness to hit the ground, I have my limits. With that being said I look for comfort and predictability, probably just like you. The revised setting kept the character that I liked with the stock shock and improved it in the areas that it lacked. Initial hold up was improved, but kept that small initial area of plushness allowing the shock to absorb the small bumps and not squat too much ending up too far into the stroke and become harsh. This also eliminated the wallow feel in g-outs and rollers, improved big bump absorption and harsh landings were handled with ease. I purposely flat landed off a couple jumps and was really impressed on how well it absorbed the impact. Overall, I'm really happy with this suspension package because I am now in that comfort zone that keeps me from going crazy when I am trying to push it.

If you’re looking to get your KX450 suspension done, are near my weight (190 lbs.) and want this setting, you can reference this article to the Pro Circuit guys. They can get you dialed in with what we came up with.

When I rode this bike with the stock exhaust I remember having a controlled, connected feel with the power. The throttle had that connected feel to the rear wheel, the power felt seamless and my corner speed was really good through all areas (1,2,3) of each corner. After exiting is where I felt the stock power needed a little more pulling power. Initially I went with the full Ti-6 system from PC and it produced the results I was looking for. It helped the KX450’s power from initial crack of the throttle and up through the mid to top end. If not for a conversation I had with a friend on how I was liking the bike, I would have never tried the slip on version that PC offers for this bike. I was happy with the power output, but just wished I could move it around where I needed it most. He suggested the slip on muffler with the stock header, so I said why not.

The slip on brought back the feel I was missing, but still produced a little better mid to top pull than the stock version. The stock header is longer, which produces a smoother yet responsive power that is easier to control for me. The Ti-6 header is shorter which produces a snappier feel, but also can be harder to control on harder surfaces. The two slightly different power bands and power deliveries can work at different tracks, so just make sure you know what you’re looking for before purchasing. If you're like me and grew up on two-strokes you may still have that style of hitting the throttle hard and clutching the bike more than you should. I've adapted to the four-stroke style of riding for the most part, but there is still a part of me that gets a little “two-stroke” when I am pushing hard. That being said, I found the stock header with the PC slip-on allowed me to still ride that way (even though Keefer tells me not to) and allowed me to stay in control yet carry more corner speed. I can tell you that "feel" I was missing was found again and I believe it's a combination of the power delivery of the stock head pipe and PC slip on coupled with the revised shock settings. On entering turns the bump absorption and calmness of the shock matched with slightly more engine brake feel from the longer head pipe that allowed me to carry more roll speed on the initial part of the corner. Once through area 1 of the corner, the transitioning into rolling the gas on through area 2 and 3 provided me with the controlled power delivery that makes the KX450 stick better through shallow ruts. 

Additionally the delivery allowed the chassis to feel more calm through acceleration chop and produce increased comfort and traction I was missing. It boils down to preference, what suits your riding style and what is your end goal. When I was younger and racing more, I would have preferred the shorter head pipe with the snappier power. These days when I'm  looking for more comfort and predictability I like the characteristic of the slip on and longer head pipe. So remember when you get a little off track with your settings and struggle, try to reset, make small tweaks and I think you'll find you were closer than you thought. I wanted to write this article to give you a few more options to try just in case you were searching for something more after your 2020 KX450 honeymoon phase. We will be trying a couple more modifications to this Kawasaki KX450 in the coming weeks so stay tuned to keeferinctesting.com to see what I have in store.