Mods That Will Make You Love Your 2021 Honda CRF450R More

You have no idea how much I love/hate this 2021 Honda CRF450R/WE. This bike calls my name every time I walk out into the shop and like the sucker that I am, I always crawl back to it. Some of my best days at the track have come on the 2021 Honda CRF450R and also some of my worst. Even though the 2021 machine is less finicky than the 2020 version, it’s still tough to obtain a consistent level of comfort, out of the Honda’s chassis, from track to track. I am determined (for me and for you) to make it comfortable to go fast on and hit bumps at speed without feeling like I “HAVE” to find the smooth line. Here are a few things that I have been messing with a lot lately that is actually bringing me closer to the Honda CRF450R. No, it’s not as comfortable as a Yamaha or Kawasaki in the chassis department, but doing these mods below really has helped me take the Honda out of the shop and into my van for a happy moto day.

ECU:

Yes, you already know to get your stock ECU re-flashed from your Honda dealer right? Good! This will help make like a lot easier on you once out on the track. From what I am told this ECU update is basically the 2022 setting, so we all should be good to go on this updated stock ECU. However, if you want to take it a step further and go with a Vortex, I am not going to tell you no. A Vortex mapped by Chad at XPR or Jamie at Twisted Development really does help calm the chassis down, by giving it a longer/more linear type of power. Yes, it’s expensive at around 1K, but if you’re a serious rider this mod is worth the money! I have spent my own money on a few Vortex ECU’s on various machines and have always came back blown away. Plus they have great resale value! Get more rear wheel connection and more of a seamless power character from either of these tuners. You can always email me to get more of a background on either one of these gentlemen tuners. *If you are wondering if you should get your stock ECU re-flashed from one of these tuners or get the Honda OEM re-flash, I am always going to tell you to go with the OEM in-house re-flash*. 

Optional Suspension Setting: 

 The stock suspension might be too soft for you if you’re anywhere over 180 pounds. Honda has a 5.0 N/m fork spring that is adequate for most, but the valving seems too soft. Out back the 54 N/m shock spring is also way too soft, so if you’re looking for a quick band aid to make your Honda CRF450R better, without going to a re-valve, going a spring rate up on each end has helped me feel more secure on high speed tracks, as well as soft bumpy tracks. Bringing both ends up a little in the stroke (with the heavier spring rates) has given me more front/rear wheel traction as well a Honda that corners better without over-steering. Unlike the 2020 Honda CRF450R going up a spring rate on the 2021 version has given the new red bike more track toughness. If you’re not into spending more money on a re-valve at this time, simply get some heavier springs and try this setting:

 Fork: 

 Spring Rate: 5.1 N/m

 Height: Flush-2mm

 Comp: 11-12 out

 Rebound: 11 out

 Shock:

 Spring Rate: 56 N/m

 L/S Comp: 12 clicks out

 H/S Comp: 2 3/4 clicks out

 Rebound: 10 clicks out

 Sag: 105-106mm

Throttle Tube:If you’re like me and think that the Honda CRF450R throttle tube is too fat feeling, go with a stronger, better feeling throttle tube of the ZRT. Tom over at ZRT turns these throttle tubes down a little on the lath, so they have a smaller OD size and have an easier twist because of the bearing ZRT incorporates with the throttle tube. I was skeptical about this throttle before using it, but since I put it on my KTM test bike, I have been running them on almost all of my bikes here and have been extremely happy with the product. They are a little pricey at almostst 200 bucks, but they are bulletproof, give you a buttery twist, and feel less fat in your right hand! Plus for being a aluminum throttle tube, the extra vibration is very minimal. 

Handlebars/Vibration:Get a set of Pro Taper bars and get a little less vibration and more flex than the Renthal Fatbars. I currently run a Suzuki Race Team PT EVO bar (same as 996 Renthal) that will be on sale soon to the public. If you can’t wait for the Suzuki RT bend, go with a SX Race or YZ High bend (for rider height 5’8-6’1) from Pro Taper. 

Muffler:Putting an aftermarket muffler system on isn’t necessarily about more horsepower, but about changing the character of the engine in a way that the Honda needs. I went out and tested three different versions of what FMF is about to offer the consumer and the one I chose looks to be the one that will go into production. So what does the 4.1 system do? What I liked about the 4.1 system right off the bat is that it calmed down the vibration feel that I get on the Honda. For whatever reason bolting on the 4.1 helped the harmonic vibration that I get when hitting higher RPM’s from the stock muffler. This actually gave the Honda more comfort, because it felt less rigid! The 4.1 also made the engine character broader with better low end RPM response, but with a smoother roll on. Mid range is increased as well as slightly more top end/over-rev in 2nd/3rd gears. Before you email me and tell me you CAN'T get the FMF 4.1 for your new Honda, chill down... I know... It's coming!

Torque Settings:For 2021, I thought I would revisit some torque specs on the CRF450R chassis and see if it helps as much as it did with the 2020 CRF450R. I spent a few days experimenting with torque settings and have came up with the spec chart below. What these updated torque specs do is slightly improve the bump compliancy and front/rear wheel traction of the 2021 CRF450R. This isn’t a cure all, but you will feel a little extra comfort in your red ride. If you don’t see a torque spec on a portion of the bike that is not below, don’t freak out, just go with the stock recommended torque spec. I experimented with a lot of different parts of the chassis with torque specs and the bolts/nuts below make the mosts difference on the red machine.  It may not seem like much, but it’s the little things on this bike that can make the Honda chassis FUN for the average guy. Out of all of the machines that I have experimented with on torque settings, this bike reacts the most to it, so pay attention to your nuts/bolts on your Honda! 

Follow the torque spec sheet below and make sure to blue Loc-Tite the bolts/nuts on each to ensure you have no issues down the road.

Rear Axle Nut (Qty. 1): 

Stock: 128 Nm

Updated Spec: 120 Nm

Fork Top Clamp Pinch Bolts (Qty. 4):

Stock: 22 Nm

Updated Spec: 19 Nm

Fork Bottom Clamp Pinch Bolts (Qty. 4):

Stock: 20 Nm

Updated Spec: 16-17 Nm

Swingarm Pivot Nut (Qty. 1):

Stock: 88 Nm

Updated Spec: 81 Nm

Front Engine Hanger Plate Bolts (Qty. 4):

Stock: 26 Nm

Updated Spec: 24 Nm

Front Engine Hanger Plate Nut (Qty. 1):

Stock: 54 Nm

Updated Spec: 51 Nm

Cylinder Head Hanger Bolt (Qty.2):

Stock 54 Nm

Updated Spec: 51 Nm

Cylinder head Hanger Plate Bolts (Qty 4):

Stock: 32 Nm

Updated Spec: 29 Nm

Shock Absorber Upper Mounting Bolt (Qty. 1):

Stock: 44 Nm

Updated Spec: 42 Nm

Things You Can’t Do To Your 2021 That You Could With Your 2020: 

Gearing:You can’t install a 14 tooth countershaft sprocket without damaging the hydraulic clutch slave cylinder so don't do it! 

24mm Offset Clamps:Currently no one is making a 24mm offset clamp for the 2021 CRF450R at the time of this article. However, you can use a 2020 24mm offset clamp if you go with the 2020 front fender and number plate combo. The 24mm offset helps calm the chassis down under acceleration as well as help decrease rigidity feel. This was all a plus for me on the 2021 CRF450R. Installing a 24mm offset clamp with the fork height at 4mm gives the rider a more positive feel when the track gets beat up and rutty. Ride Engineering is currently working on a 23.5mm offset clamp that I will be doing a review on shortly. My two top clamps for this model would be either a X-Trig ROCS or Ride Engineering Split Clamp. 

Vibration: 

If you’re noticing a vibration up through your pegs into your handlebars on low RPM (4000-6000 RPM) try this with your 2021 CRF450R engine. I stumbled across this mod when Chad at XPR unexpectedly did this to my 2020 CRF450R without me even knowing. When I came off the track and commented I felt less vibration though my feet/handlebars as well as a better initial lean coming into corners he was kind of blown away. Since then I have tried this on another 2021 CRF450R and got similar results, so I thought it was worth mentioning to you. The first step to tilting your CRF 450R engine in the chassis is to loosen off all motor mounts and engine hangers,(without completely removing the bolts or nuts) seeing how you are going to have to quickly tighten the motor mounting nuts while holding the engine in place. This includes the swingarm pivot bolt, lower engine bolt, three upper engine bolts that mount to frame and engine, finally the left and right engine hangers on the sides of the frame and engine. Next step is to find a long flat blade screw driver or a longer tire iron works best. Place the tire iron or screw driver in between the frame and the engine in the middle of the lower engine bolt and the upper engine bolts. By pushing down on the tire iron or screw driver you will notice the motor lift up and back in the chassis. While continuing to push down on the tire iron or screw driver begin to tighten the three upper engine bolts/nuts first and then the lower engine bolt /nut. Get these nuts and bolts tight enough to hold the engine in place without the motor sliding down again. Torque these four nuts to the manufacturers specifications then move to the swing arm axle nut and finally to the engine hanger bolts and torque them to the manufacturers specifications.

Hopefully some of these inexpensive tips help you get some added happiness out of your 2021 CRF450R! Email me at kris@keeferinctesting.com and tell me how it's going!

2021 KTM 250 SX-F Baseline Suspension, Rider Triangle, And Gearing Settings

My son and I have been riding the 2021 KTM 250 SX-F heavily the past few months and have come up with some settings for each of us that may help you out with your orange 250 four stroke machine. If you’re looking for a good place to start, these settings below worked well for a wide variety of tracks that we tested at. Getting a setting that ranges from 130-175 pounds is tough to do but after a few months of playing around we thing we found a setting that can make you comfortable. Below are some suspension, gearing and rider triangle settings that you can apply to your orange brigade at home. 

Suspension: (160-190 Pounds)

Fork: 

C: 15

R: 11

Height: 4mm

Air: 10.7 Bar

Shock: (Spec #AK2S)

LSC: 13

HSC: 1.5

R:11

Sag: 105mm

Suspension: (130-155 Pounds)

Fork: 

C: 11

R: 10

Height: 4mm

Air: 10.4 Bar

Shock: (Spec #AK2S)

LSC: 15

HSC: 1..75

R: 11

Sag: 105mm

Gearing: 

In stock form the 2021 KTM 250 SX-F comes with a 14/51 but for heavier riders above 170 pounds a 14/52 or even a 14/53 works better in most conditions. Why? It allows the rider to get into third gear more and let the KTM 250 SX-F pull their heavy asses around the track better. For lighter riders under 150 pounds the stock 13/51 gearing is just fine as the lighter riders can use 3rd gear a little early without the detrimental affect of not having enough recovery when shifting too early. 

Rider Triangle: 

The stock Neken handlebar is rigid/harsh to the hands so go with a Pro Taper bar. If you’re a Renthal guy please contact me for specs at kris@keeferinctesting.com. See specs below: 

Height: 5’5-5’9 = Husqvarna Stock Pro Taper Bend

Height: 5’9-6’2 = SX Race Pro Taper Bend or YZ High Pro Taper Bend

Throttle Feel:

If you find yourself having a sticky or hard twist to your throttle, you can replace your throttle cables as the stock cables will only last around 20 hours before they start to feel like crap. No matter what you do, the cables will never feel the same even if you lube them. You might get a free feel after lubing the cables for a bit, but soon thereafter your throttle will feel harder to twist once again. If you’re looking to spend a little money for an aluminum throttle tube and want to  help the feel of your throttle, I recommend the ZRT throttle. This throttle tube makes the pull have almost zero drag and is a tough SOB. There is some set up/prep time to this throttle (cutting the right side of the handlebars a 1/2 inch), but it can help the pull over the long haul.

TOP 5 MAINTENANCE ITEMS:

1. Fuel Filters: If you’re a KTM owner, do yourself a favor and put a couple of these in your toolbox just in case. Fuel filters can get clogged on all KTM’s and this can cause damage to your fuel pump or possibly not allow your bike to start properly.

2. Throttle Cables: If there is one thing that DOES NOT last on KTM’s it is the throttle cables. Every 15-20 hours I will have to replace the throttle cables to ensure that my throttle doesn’t feel hard or sticky when twisting. Originally I thought my throttle tube was dirty or maybe the right side of the handlebar had dirt on it, but I found out through a couple KTM mechanics, that the throttle cables simply wear out. You can’t lube them or clean them out as it will only make the throttle feel better for a short amount of time. Get some 

3. Check All Spokes/Sprocket Bolts: KTM spokes always come loose near the rim lock so make sure you pay attention to all the spokes after every ride. If you don’t check them constantly you will lose or break a couple. 

4. Check Engine Mounts/Swingarm Pivot Bolt: Always check the torx bolts that hold the top engine hangers on the bike. After break in, these will loosen up a bunch, so you might need some blue Loctite on the threads. After you do this, please continue to check these as they still back out from time to time. The torque spec on these bolts are important to the ride attitude of these KTM’s. Also the KTM’s come with frame guards and that means you will not know (until it’s too late) when your swingarm pivot bolt  backs out. Take off your frame guard and check pivot bolt regularly. While you’re at it, get the Acerbis frame guards as they last longer and have better grip than the stock ones. 

5: FI Indicator Light: The little FI indicator light bulb will fall out of the rubber casing as soon as you get past 10 hours. The best thing to do is put a little silicone inside the rubber casing, so the light bulb as well as the wire doesn’t flop around.

2021 Honda CRF450R Optional Torque Specs

I have spoke about how important the torque specs are on the 2020 Honda CRF450R before, but in a recent test session with the 2021 CRF450R, this statement never became more true. As always I am looking for more comfort out the 2021 Honda CRF450R chassis even though it is slightly more forgiving than the 2020 version. Out of all the bikes that I ride, I feel like the Honda fits me the best ergonomically, but it’s always a struggle for me to find comfort when I hit rough tracks. If I go to a soft bumpy track, I really enjoy riding the 2021 CRF450R, but when I get to a rough/choppy dry type of track, the Honda just beats me up too much. 

So for 2021, I thought I would revisit some torque specs on the CRF450R chassis and see if it helps as much as it did with the 2020 CRF450R. I spent a few days experimenting with torque settings and have came up with the spec chart below. What these updated torque specs do is slightly improve the bump compliancy and front/rear wheel traction of the 2021 CRF450R. This isn’t a cure all, but you will feel a little extra comfort in your red ride. If you don’t see a torque spec on a portion of the bike that is not below, don’t freak out, just go with the stock recommended torque spec. I experimented with a lot of different parts of the chassis with torque specs and the bolts/nuts below make the mosts difference on the red machine. It may not seem like much, but it’s the little things on this bike that can make the Honda chassis FUN for the average guy. Out of all of the machines that I have experimented with on torque settings, this bike reacts the most to it, so pay attention to your nuts/bolts on your Honda!

Follow the torque spec sheet below and make sure to blue Loc-Tite the bolts/nuts on each to ensure you have no issues down the road.

Rear Axle Nut (Qty. 1): 

Stock: 128 Nm

Updated Spec: 120 Nm

Fork Top Clamp Pinch Bolts (Qty. 4):

Stock: 22 Nm

Updated Spec: 19 Nm

Fork Bottom Clamp Pinch Bolts (Qty. 4):

Stock: 20 Nm

Updated Spec: 16-17 Nm

Swingarm Pivot Nut (Qty. 1):

Stock: 88 Nm

Updated Spec: 81 Nm

Front Engine Hanger Plate Bolts (Qty. 4):

Stock: 26 Nm

Updated Spec: 24 Nm

Front Engine Hanger Plate Nut (Qty. 1):

Stock: 54 Nm

Updated Spec: 51 Nm

Cylinder Head Hanger Bolt (Qty.2):

Stock 54 Nm

Updated Spec: 51 Nm

Cylinder head Hanger Plate Bolts (Qty 4):

Stock: 32 Nm

Updated Spec: 29 Nm

Shock Absorber Upper Mounting Bolt (Qty. 1): 

Stock: 44 Nm

Updated Spec: 42 Nm

The Weekend Race Set Up 3/6-7/2021 (Mesquite)

I always thought it would be cool to share the notes that I create after a race with the reader. 98% of the time I will input notes about each test bike/part I decide to race on any given weekend. The part as well as the bikes change from time to time, but I always like to have a log of what I ran as well as the conditions of each race. Below is a brief breakdown on the bikes, parts as well as notes on how each performed or felt. Last weekend we brought three bikes to race (KTM 250 SX-F, Honda CRF450R, Yamaha YZ450F), but we are going to give the Honda CRF450R it’s own baseline settings article later this week so stay tuned for that. Below are two breakdowns of what was on each machine and how each machine fared in race conditions. Each time my son and I race, you can check back here to keeferinctesting.com every Tuesday (when we race the previous weekend) for “The Weekend Race Set Up”. 

Track: Mesquite 

Kris Keefer

Terrain: Soft/Grabby dirt with long choppy ruts/steep downhill

Start: Grate with concrete after gate

Avg Lap Time: 1:30

Total Number Of Motos: 6 motos (Two 20 minute plus 1 lap motos, 4X7 lap motos)

Weight At Time Of Race: 171 pounds w/o gear

2021 Yamaha YZ450F:

Engine Hours 36.2

Mods/Parts: 

Tires: Dunlop MX3S/MX33 13.5/12.5 PSI 

Bars: Pro Taper SX Race Evo

Grips: Renthal Half Waffle Soft

Levers: ARC RC-8 Perch/Lever

Throttle: ZRT 

Rider Triangle: -5mm down and back peg position/stock bar height/rear hole

Gearing: 13/49 Renthal Sprockets/DID ERT3 Chain

Engine Mods: Vortex ECU Mapped By XPR/FMF 4.1 Full System

Engine Oil: Blud Racing 10/40 Pro Series

Fuel: VP T4

Holeshot Device: WC

Graphics/Seat: D’Cor Star Racing Yamaha Spec

Suspension: Enzo Racing Test Fork/Shock Spec #KK108

Air Filter: Twin Air Power Flow Kit 

Results: 1st 30A (1-1), 4th Open Pro, (5-4) 3rd 25A (4-1)

Notes: 

• GH World Vet ECU setting allowed third gear corners without on/off area 2 feel. Power was controlled and easy to manage late in motos.

• YZ450F felt slightly heavy compared to Honda CRF450R on area 1-2 of corners at Mesquite but was more stable on area 3 of corners.

• Fork was soft on end stroke on de-cel (grabby dirt). Went in +2 clicks on Comp.

• Shock sag at 105mm made for acceptable balance, but slowed rebound down -1 click to compensate for soft bump leading into ruts.

• Shock still had firm feel on accel bump and possible I need less HS Dampening

• WC start device needs to be at 120mm for grate start

• Rider Triangle allows for less leg fatigue and rear felt fatigue than stock triangle setting.

• Seat Foam breaking down after 8 hours. Need new foam/standard height.

Suspension Setting: 

Fork: (Spec #KK108F)

C: 10

R: 9

Height: 2mm

Shock: (Spec #KK108S)

LSC: 12

HSC: 1.25

R: 8

Sag: 105mm

Track: Mesquite 

Aden Keefer

Terrain: Soft/Grabby dirt with long choppy ruts/steep downhill

Start: Grate with concrete after gate

Avg Lap Time: 1:30

Total Number Of Motos: 7 motos (One 20 minute moto, 6X7 lap motos)

Weight At Time Of Race: 130 pounds w/o gear

2021 KTM 250 SX-F:

Engine Hours 48.8

Mods/Parts: 

Tires: Dunlop MX3S/MX33 13.5/12.5 PSI 

Bars: Pro Taper Fuzion Suzuki Race Team

Grips: Pro Taper 1/3 Waffle Race Cut

Levers: Stock

Throttle: ZRT Grey Cam 

Rider Triangle: Stock

Gearing: 14/51 Sunstar Sprockets/DID ERT3 Chain

Engine Mods: Vortex ECU Mapped By XPR/FMF 4.1 Full System

Engine Oil: Blud Racing 10/40 Pro Series

Fuel: VP MR Pro 6

Holeshot Device: WC

Graphics/Seat: Throttle Syndicate/GUTS seat cover/firm foam

Suspension: REP Racing Test Fork/Shock Spec #AK2

Air Filter: Twin Air Power Flow Kit 

Results: 3rd Open All Star (5-3), 2nd Schoolboy 2 (3-2), 2nd Open Am (2), 1st (2-1)

Notes: 

• REP AER setting was set at 8.9 bar in AM to compensate for heat/race day length

• Fork comfort on bigger braking bump was better than stock setting

• Fork comfort on small/light bump/accel was still firm through handlebars

• Shock felt low on accel. Turned HSC in 1/4 turn. Helped balance

• ECU setting was clean in AM, but PM 82 degree conditions had dirty feel on roll on mid RPM. Could be boiling fuel MR Pro 6. Must pick up/switch to MR Pro 6 HT for spring time.

• Need to drop hole shot device to 120mm (from 100mm) for Aden’s lightweight ass on metal grate.

• Broke brake pedal tip off (crash)

• Bent clutch lever (crash)

Fork: (Spec #AK2F)

C: 14

R: 12

Height: 5mm

Air: 9.89-9.90 Bar 

Shock: (Spec #AK2S)

LSC: 15

HSC: 1.5

R:11

Sag: 105mm

2021 250 MX Baseline Stock Suspension Settings Bible

Here is your one stop shop for some baseline suspension settings for all (except the Suzuki) the 250 motocross machines. These settings are a great start for anyone between 150-180 pounds. If heavier springs are needed the below specs will specify this. If you’re asking yourself ,why not gives some specs for riders under 150 pounds, don’t fret, email me at kris@keeferinctesting.com and I can try to walk you through some options. -KK

2021 Honda CRF250R:

In stock form the Showa suspension on the 2021 Honda CRF250R has decent comfort on de-cel bumps, but lacks a little hold up for riders ranging from 160-190 pounds. If you’re over 190 pounds going up a spring rate on each end is your ticket to a better handling CRF250R. After riding with this setting below at more than three different tracks, more than one time around, I figured out that this baseline suspension setting gave the 2021 Honda CRF250R the most “track toughness”. If you happen to feel like the fork is harsher (through the mid stroke) with this setting, simply open up the rebound (faster) back to stock setting. This will help free up the fork slightly under front end load (off-gas). The shock needs just a little more hold up under acceleration so simply going stiffer/slower on low speed compression/rebound gives the rider more comfort and added traction out of corners. I tried experimenting with high speed compression, but the Honda is finicky with high speed. Going stiffer on high speed compression (shock) put too much weight on the front end (fork) creating a harsher feeling front fork.

Fork:

Spring Rate: 4.8N/mm

Height: 3mm 

Compression: 6-7 clicks out 

Rebound: 10 clicks out 

Shock:

Spring Rate: 52N/mm

Sag: 102-103mm

High Speed Compression: 2-5/6

Low Speed Compression: 9 clicks out 

Rebound: 5 clicks out

2021 Kawasaki KX250:

The 2021 KX250 to me has a better suspension feel than the KX450 as well a better hold up. The KYB suspension has a wide range of comfort for different size riders so stock springs should suffice unless you’re over 180 pounds. If you’re over 180 pounds then going to a 5.0N/mm fork spring (like last year’s fork) and 56N/mm rear spring and softening up the compression a couple clicks on each end and that should increase the comfort for you heavier dudes.

Fork: 

Spring Rate: 4.9 N/mm

Height: 4mm

Compression: 9 clicks out 

Rebound: 10 clicks out 

Shock:

Spring Rate: 54 N/mm

Sag: 102-103mm

High Speed Compression: 1.25 turns out

Low Speed Compression: 9 clicks out

Rebound: 11 clicks out 

2021 Yamaha YZ250: 

Much like the chassis, the 2021 suspension feels firmer (compared the 2020), holds up more in the stroke slightly, yet still has that KYB free feeling movement (unlike a Showa feel where it moves less with a dead feel) that is very active on the track. That active feel translates into a a front/rear end that follows the ground well under small chatter and bigger/softer braking bumps. I did have to go a little firmer on both ends for my style of riding, but it didn’t take long at all to feel comfortable. Track Toughness of the 2021 Yamaha YZ250F is better than the 2020, but if you’re north of 180 pounds you might want to drop in a set of 4.8N/mm fork springs and live happy! 

Fork: 

Spring Rate: 4.7 N/mm

Height: 4mm

Compression: 8 clicks out 

Rebound: 9 clicks out 

Shock:

Spring Rate: 56 N/mm

Sag: 104mm

High Speed Compression: 7/8-1 turn out

Low Speed Compression: 8 clicks out

Rebound: 9 clicks out 

2021 KTM 250SX-F: 

Always remember that a WP AER fork needs more time to break in than any other fork on the market. Your AER fork will need at least 5-6 engine hours to fully break in. If you feel like your fork is stiff/harsh before that, don’t fret yet, as this is a common feel among these forks. These KTM/Husqvarna/Gas Gas settings are for riders anywhere from 150-180 pounds. Lighter riders under 150 pounds will need a slightly softer air setting (around TKTK bar), but can use the same clicker adjustment readings. 

Fork: 

Spring Rate: 10.6-10.7 bar

Height: 5mm

Compression: 11 clicks out (with 10.6 bar) 15 clicks out (with 10.7 bar)

Rebound: 11 clicks out 

Shock:

Spring Rate: 42 N/mm

Sag: 102-103mm

High Speed Compression: 1.75-2 turns out

Low Speed Compression: 11 clicks out

Rebound: 12 clicks out 

2021 Gas Gas MC250:

Fork: 

Spring Rate: 10.6-10.7 bar

Height: 5mm

Compression: 11 clicks out (with 10.6 bar) 15 clicks out (with 10.7 bar)

Rebound: 10 clicks out 

Shock:

Spring Rate: 42 N/mm

Sag: 102-103mm

High Speed Compression: 1.75-2 turns out

Low Speed Compression: 11 clicks out

Rebound: 11 clicks out

2021 Husqvarna FC250: 

Due to the lower nature of the Husqvarna setting, we preferred to go a little stiffer with this set up to get more comfort on the Husqvarna suspension.

Fork: 

Spring Rate: 10.7-10.8 bar

Height: 5mm

Compression: 14 clicks out 

Rebound: 9-10 clicks out

Shock:

Spring Rate: 42 N/mm

Sag: 100-101mm

High Speed Compression: 1.5 

Low Speed Compression: 10 clicks out

Rebound: 11 clicks out 

2021 450 MX Baseline Stock Suspension Setting Bible

Here is your one stop shop for some baseline suspension settings for all (except the Suzuki) the 450 motocross machines. These settings are a great start for anyone between 160-200 pounds. If heavier springs are needed the below specs will specify this. If you’re asking yourself ,why not gives some specs for riders over 200 pounds, don’t fret, email me at kris@keeferinctesting.com and I can try to walk you through some options. -KK

2021 KX450 Suspension Settings:

The stock KX450 fork is too soft on de-cel and needs more hold up. These settings will help achieve this and leave you with enough comfort where your hands will not be screaming for mercy. 

Fork: 

 Spring Rate 5.1 N/m Spring (5.0 N/m is stock) *If B level rider and over 200 pounds 5.2 N/m springs are also a great option*

 Oil Level: Standard

 Compression:11-12 clicks out (12 clicks out with 5.2 spring)

 Rebound Range: 10-11 clicks out

 Fork Height: 2-3 mm

 Shock:

Sag: 104-105mm

 Spring Rate: 54 N/m (190 pounds or over, try 56 N/m)

 Low Speed Compression: 16 clicks out

 High Speed Compression: 1 1/8 turns out

 Rebound: 10-11 out

2021 Yamaha YZ450F Suspension Settings: 

Suspension: If you’re sticking with stock valving the 2021 Yamaha YZ450F’s suspension settings are still slightly soft (once suspension is broke in) at times on bigger bumps at speed. Going slower on the action as well as stiffening the compression really helps the whole bike remain planted around the track. The comfort that the KYB SSS fork/suspension has is unmatched and the track toughness it provides makes your life so much less stressful on set up. This setting below will work for most riders ranging from 160-195 pounds with no gear. 

Fork: 

Height: 4mm

Compression: 6-7 clicks out

Rebound: 7-8 clicks out

Shock: 

Sag: 104mm

Low Speed Compression: 8 clicks out

High Speed Compression: 3/4 turns out

Rebound: 7-8 clicks out 

2021 Honda CRF450R Suspension Settings:

The stock suspension might be too soft for you if you’re anywhere over 180 pounds. Honda has a 5.0 N/m fork spring that is adequate for most, but the valving seems too soft. Out back the 54 N/m shock spring is also way too soft, so if you’re looking for a quick band aid to make your Honda CRF450R better, without going to a re-valve, going a spring rate up on each end has helped me feel more secure on high speed tracks, as well as soft bumpy tracks. Bringing both ends up a little in the stroke (with the heavier spring rates) has given me more front/rear wheel traction as well a Honda that corners better without over-steering. Unlike the 2020 Honda CRF450R, going up a spring rate on the 2021 version has given the new red bike more track toughness, but you’re still going to have to deal with some frame rigidity. If you’re not into spending more money on a re-valve at this time, simply get some heavier springs and try this setting: 

 Fork: 

 Spring Rate: 5.1 N/m

 Height: 2mm

 Comp: 11-12 out

 Rebound: 11 out

Shock:

 Spring Rate: 56 N/m 

 L/S Comp: 12 clicks out

 H/S Comp: 2 3/4 clicks out

 Rebound: 10 clicks out

 Sag: 106mm

2021 Husqvarna FC450 Suspension Settings:

The recommended settings were 10.7 bar or 155psi of air in the fork, compression at 12 out and rebound at 18 out. This setting was, as suspected, too soft for my liking and after testing at a few tracks, I found a base line setting of:

Fork:

Air Pressure: 11.1 bar or 162 psi of air

Compression at 13 clicks

Rebound 15 out. 

*With Factory Hard Parts Triple Clamps or Ride Engineering Split Clamps*

Height: 5mm

Air Pressure: 11.1 Bar

Compression: 12 clicks out

Rebound: 13 clicks out

Shock:

Sag: 100mm

L/S Comp: 8 out

H/S Comp: 1.5 out

Rebound: 12 out

With this setting I had no issues bottoming on hard landings as well as  bump absorption/hold up/traction were very good even at GH late in the day. 

The shock was a bit more difficult to find a great setting for, but that is due to the shock spring being slightly soft (undersprun for my level of riding). The action of the shock wasn't bad, my issue was with a spring that is just simply too soft. The shock was riding too low in the stroke which caused a low squat in the apex of turns and a soft blow thru feeling on transitions, whoops, and hard landings. As I said this is easily fixed with a stiffer spring but when striving for a stock base line setting you do the best with what you have. I ended up going with 100mm of sag, high speed compression at 1/2 turn out, low speed compression at 8 out and rebound at 12 out. Now some of you may ask why I didn't go further in on compression and I did try that, but the action on acceleration chop/braking bumps suffered when things are closed off that much. The soft feeling on landings, whoops and turns was more manageable than the instability in choppy acceleration bumps or entering braking bumps at speed. Not the ideal trade off, but again if you have to make do until you get the correct spring rates or a revalve, these settings should work for you. At the end of the day this base line set up allowed me to get more comfortable at speed and gave me a direction of the areas I want to improve.

2021 KTM 450 SX-F Suspension Settings:

Fork (Stock Triple Clamp): 

Height: 5mm

Air Pressure: 11.0 Bars

Compression: 13-14 clicks out

Rebound: 13 clicks out

*With KTM Hard Parts Triple Clamps or Ride Engineering Split Clamps*

Height: 5mm

Air Pressure: 11.1 Bars

Compression: 15-16 clicks out

Rebound: 13 clicks out

Shock:

Sag: 102mm

Low Speed Compression: 10 clicks out

High Speed Compression: 1.25 out 

Rebound:  11 clicks out 

2021 Gas Gas MC450 Suspension Settings: 

The 21 Gas Gas MC450 has a similar suspension feel to the KTM, but the chassis has slightly more compliancy so the setting that I came up with is only slightly slower moving than the KTM. This is a general happy spot for the other red machine: 

Fork (Stock Triple Clamp): 

Height: 5mm

Air Pressure: 11 Bar

Compression: 14 clicks out

Rebound: 11 clicks out

*With Factory Hard Parts Triple Clamps or Ride Engineering Split Clamps*

Height: 5mm

Air Pressure: 11 Bar

Compression: 11 clicks out

Rebound: 10 clicks out

Shock:

Sag: 103mm

Low Speed Compression: 10 clicks out

High Speed Compression: 1.5 out 

Rebound:  10 clicks out

2021 KTM 450 Factory Edition (Connectivity Unit Map)

Looking for less engine braking and an overall lighter feel from your 2021 KTM 450 Factory Edition? This map can help the heavy feel when breaking in your new steed as well as continue to keep giving you a freer feel as the engine hours roll on. Less front end fork dive and more engine recovery out of corners is what this setting can do. Maybe you’re a third gear roll on type of rider? This map/setting can help..

2021 KTM 250/350SX-F Top 5 Mods And Top 5 Maintenance Tips

We have seen some quality time over the last few months with the 2021 KTM 250/350SX-F and have come up what we think are the best as well as the most relatively inexpensive mods to each one of these machines. Both machines respond well to these mods and while we were at it, we put together our top 5 maintenance items that we have felt our test bikes needed. Here are the details, in no particular order.

1. KTM 250SX Air Filter Cage: This is the cheapest and easiest way to get more throttle response out of your KTM 250SX-F/350SX-F. You will notice better throttle response through the low to mid RPM range by simply going to a 250 SX two stroke cage with no backfire screen. Here is the part number you will need. P/N 5040601600

2. FMF 4.1 Full Muffler System: To me, FMF makes the best muffler system for the KTM 250/350/450 SX-F. There are some other companies that have other bikes dialed in more, but on the KTM, FMF has got it down. You will get more low to mid RPM response as well as more mid range pulling power. Top end is increased plus the over-rev is as good as stock. It is one of the few times that I was impressed because it was actually better than stock in almost all areas. The downside is that you must keep up on muffler packing (every 10-12 engine hours) because the FMF will blow out and that could damage your expensive titanium can. Did I mention that you will lose almost two pounds with the titanium 4.1 system? If you slap on spring forks on your KTM, you will be gaining almost three pounds. You can get most of that weight gain back down with a 4.1 Titanium FMF Muffler system.

3. Pro Taper Handlebars: The stock Neken handlebar is too stiff and doesn't offer too much comfort. Throw them in the trash. Get yourself a set of Pro Taper bars and make your arms and hands happy again. The Pro Taper SX Race bar worked well for riders from 5’8 to 6’1. The SX Race bend comes in a crossbar or crossbar-less style and is 800mm width, 87mm height, 54.5 rise, and 54mm sweep. If you’re looking for a better “stand up feel” from your KTM look for handlebar close to this measurement. If you do like the stock bar try the Pro Taper Husqvarna Stock bend with 5mm bar mount risers (Ride Engineering sells these).  

4. Throttle Tube: There are a couple you can choose from here… If you’re looking for an aluminum throttle tube that is expensive, but helps the feel of your throttle, I recommend the ZRT throttle. This throttle tube makes the pull have almost zero drag and is a tough SOB. There is some set up/prep time to this throttle (cutting the right side of the handlebars), but it can help the pull over the long haul. If you’re more the plastic style tube type of rider, look at the Motion Pro Titan tube as it’s tough for a plastic tube and doesn’t have as much drag as the stock lock on style ODI grip/tube that comes on the stock KTM’s. The stock plastic throttle has a lot of friction and gets tough to turn too quickly.

5. Ride Engineering One Piece Bar Mount: The Ride Engineering One Piece Oversize Bar Mount has a one-piece top that is designed to resist bending much better than the stock bar mount. Precision machined from aircraft quality aluminum, there is also a 6mm difference between the forward and back mounting positions. Ride Engineering also machines their own stainless steel posts that prevent over tightening, unlike some other competing brands that DO NOT use quality posts. This bar mount has saved my son and I a couple times when we are out doing motor. He seems to crash a lot in corners and the stock mount on the KTM 250 SX-F just twists and bends easily.

Extras: 

Rear Axle/Axle Blocks: Going to a Works Connection Elite axle block kit or Ride Engineering axle block kit will get rid of the fixed left axle block on the stock KTM’s axle. This will help the rear end to move more freely under throttle and improve the shock’s comfort on acceleration chop. Both are great, but you will have to decide if you want a complete axle/axle block kit like Ride Engineering’s  or just the blocks themselves like WC’s.

Rear Brake Pedal Spring: Purchase a Honda CRF450R rear brake pedal spring with the rubber around the spring. The KTM rear brake pedal spring vibrates and will break every 4-5 engine hours. Orrrrrrrrr. Get a Fasst Co rear brake return spring and be done with it! Fasst Co’s rear brake return spring offers tunable pedal resistance and a more controllable feel by placing the spring in compression instead of tension, minimizing the "on-off" feel of most rear brakes.

Top 5 Maintenance Items:

1. Fuel Filters: If you’re a KTM owner, do yourself a favor and put a couple of these in your toolbox just in case. Fuel filters can get clogged on all KTM’s and this can cause damage to your fuel pump or possibly not allow your bike to start properly.

2. Throttle Cables: If there is one thing that DOES NOT last on KTM’s it is the throttle cables. Every 15-20 hours I will have to replace the throttle cables to ensure that my throttle doesn’t feel hard or sticky when twisting. Originally I thought my throttle tube was dirty or maybe the right side of the handlebar had dirt on it, but I found out through a couple KTM mechanics, that the throttle cables simply wear out. You can’t lube them or clean them out as it will only make the throttle feel better for a short amount of time.  

3. Check All Spokes: KTM spokes always come loose near the rim lock so make sure you pay attention to all the spokes after every ride. If you don’t check them constantly you will lose or break a couple. 

4. Check Engine Mounts/Swingarm Pivot Bolt: Always check the torx bolts that hold the top engine hangers on the bike. After break in, these will loosen up a bunch, so you might need some blue Loctite on the threads. After you do this, please continue to check these as they still back out from time to time. The torque spec on these bolts are important to the ride attitude of these KTM’s. Also the KTM’s come with frame guards and that means you will not know (until it’s too late) when your swingarm pivot bolt backs out. Take off your frame guard and check pivot bolt regularly. While you’re at it, get the Acerbis frame guards as they last longer and have better grip than the stock ones.

5A: FI Indicator Light: The little FI indicator light bulb will fall out of the rubber casing as soon as you get past 10 hours. The best thing to do is put a little silicone inside the rubber casing, so the light bulb as well as the wire doesn’t flop around.

5B. *KTM 450 SX-F Only* Clutch Rubbers/Cushions: Over time (around 25-30 hours) The stock clutch rubbers could eventually crack and could cause your KTM’s clutch to slip. You might think that this is caused form the clutch plates itself, but if you pull your clutch apart you may see your fibers/steels are still good but these rubbers are cracked. Even if the rubbers crack, they can’t hurt anything as they are locked in place within the pressure plate. If you’re looking for longer lasting clutch rubbers that have a tighter tolerance you can purchase the Rekluse clutch rubbers for your stock clutch system and these have proven to last longer than the stock ones. 

Getting In The Industry (Test Rider 101)

Keefer, I want to help you test”. Of course you do, but do you know what you have to do once off of the bike? Do you know what the correct way to do things when you’re on the bike testing? I hear this statement all the time, but I end up asking the questions above to the person, every single time I get asked. To me, I don’t think a lot of people understand the ins and outs of testing. From the outside, a gig testing for Keefer Inc./Racer X or any other motocross media outlet appears to be one of the best jobs in the industry and it is! Where else do you get to ride the latest bikes, sometimes on private tracks, while wearing new, free riding gear? Yet, despite all the apparent perks, being a test rider is actually a tough job that requires dedication, being an honest person (well, hopefully), persistence and more than a little luck. The purpose of this article is to fill you in on some of the false notions surrounding the gig of being a test rider and to tell you how to become one if, that is, what you are looking to do.

Falsehoods That Surround Being A Test Rider:

There are several components of being a test rider that aren’t exactly understood by those trying to get this type of job. Here are some things that I put together that you all may think happens in the testing world, but are simply just falsehoods.

Fiction: Testing is easy work. While you may think that bike tests involves simply cruising out to the track, throwing some big whips for the camera, being back at the house by 2 p.m playing video games, you couldn’t be more delusional. Testing is hard work and those that do it right, do a lot of it! Most of my test days begin early in the morning to take advantage of the quiet time I have at home to type and typically don’t finish a testing day until I run out of light in the evening. Don’t get me wrong, it is fun, but becomes more like a real job the more you do it. The toughest thing about being a test rider would have to be the long days I put in at the track and only to return home to start typing an article or a podcast. I am mentally fried by the time I am ready to hit the sack. Sorry Mrs. Keefer, you’re not getting any tonight! To evaluate a motorcycle in a comparison situation you have to make sure you give equal time for each bike, and that could be up to six motorcycles! So, it is definitely a full day. Your body is tired at the end of the day right up to that last bike you get on, but you have to make sure you’re in the right frame of mind (and in shape) when you are testing at 5:30 in the evening. You have to make sure you are fair and not in a rush to leave the track just because you’re tired.

Fiction: Test riders get paid a lot of money. Believe it or not, I don’t pay my test riders (I only have two guys) a whole hell of a lot for their services. While this may seem unfair, consider the flip side: My test guys get to ride the latest bikes, get parts and gear to test and keep. Your hobby is work, but at least you don’t have to pay for your hobby. Not only that, but they end up getting a lot of time on each bike, which makes it a great gig for aspiring pros or those who desire a lot of training. When I started at Dirt Rider, I got paid nothing for years until a check showed up for a couple hundred bucks after a shootout. I had to put in my time and pay my dues in order just to get a couple hundred dollars. When you test for a manufacturer (think durability testing) you will get a set amount per day, but it is usually only a couple hundred bucks per day for a 12-14 hour day

Fiction: You have to be fast or a pro to be a test rider. FALSE! Being a high-level racer type certainly makes someone a good test rider on paper, but this isn’t always the case when it comes to track time. Many pros are very adept at gauging what is going on with their equipment; conversely, some pros can’t even tell if they have a flat rear tire. Trust me, I have seen it! Speed is not directly related to having a good sense of what a bike is doing and as such I try to use riders of every skill level. When I test for manufacturers I have to be conscientious of the fact that these bikes need to perform for a wide variety of riders, not just what I like. When doing stuff for Keefer Inc., I usually try to have multiple opinions in which helps broaden the evaluations I bring to readers, since not everyone out there is a Supercross Pro. This is also why you’ll see mid forty year old, blue collar guys testing in my tests alongside 240 pound weekend warriors, not just 170 pound fast guys; diversity only enhances the value of testing.

Fiction: Test riders get to roach out bikes. While I can’t say the same for other testing sites, there is no denying that I ride a lot and spend almost as much time in my garage as I do on the track. Why? Because I adhere to one simple rule that my dad preached to me when I was young: treat anything you ride as if it was your own. One look around my garage and you will find clean bikes, lubed chains, fresh filters and fresh engine oil in the machines. I take great care to not only keep the test bikes in solid shape, but also to know what makes them tick and this transfers into getting the correct feedback to you all. On the track or on the trails, I encourage my test guys to ride a bike to its full potential, but this in no way includes thrashing it. All of the manufacturers are great dudes and if I trash a bike and give it back to them like that, I would feel like shit.

So now that I brought up some common myths about test riding, how the hell do you become a test rider? 

Be Persistent And Available:

If you really want to test rider, the first thing you need to do is to make yourself available. Like “I don’t have a life” accessible and on short notice. I usually like to get the information out to the people ASAP, so I often have to plan test sessions without much warning. As a result the guys I have used earned their test riding moments by simply being in the right place at the right time. I have literally talked to riders at the track and I could tell by just the way they treat their bike, how they ride and what type of attitude they have, offered them to try out test bikes. Some of those guys came off articulate when it comes to explaining how a certain bike performs on the track. Sometimes being lucky and in the right place at the right time helps. This isn’t a slam dunk and doesn’t mean that you’re going to be a test rider, but it helps to have a good presence at the track. Say hi to people at the track and look like your enjoying yourself instead of hiding out in your van all day.

Knowledge Of Dirt Bikes:

Please for the love of all that is holy know which way to turn a clicker to speed up the rebound? What does a bike do if the mapping is off? How does the bike react if the sag is set wrong? Do you know what sag is? These questions-and more like them-all need to be answered by a test rider before getting the job. No one is looking for super freaks when it comes to bike knowledge, but a test rider needs more than an elementary idea of how a motorcycle works and how certain changes affect its performance on the track. A test rider needs to be picky enough to know how he or she likes their setup, yet open-minded enough to be able to try something different (I to can struggle with that last part at times). He (or she) cannot be afraid to try new settings, setups and has to be vocal enough when something isn’t working. If you don’t know or can’t feel a difference between bikes or settings, then it is OK to say “I can’t feel a differnce”. Most importantly, a tester needs to distinguish between what effect the track is having, what the bike is doing and what the rider or his technique is causing. This comes with either a natural ability to know a dirt bike, or lots and lots of seat time

Confidentiality:

A lot of my work is confidential and if I screw that up, I wouldn’t have a job. If you can’t keep a secret, don’t even think about trying to become a test rider. If you give up a secret before it comes to production, you risk getting blackballed from any type of testing! The word “embargo” is gold with the manufacturers. I mean Matthes tries to get shit out of me all the time and I simply just tell him, “I know nothing”! Some people think it’s no big deal and I am being too intense, but I take my testing extremely serious and that includes not talking about things until they are in production or the embargo has lifted. The best test riders are not only great at breaking down each machine, but they would have to be water boarded before giving up the goods of a new bike or part.

Be A Good Person And Professional:

As most of you know I like to have fun just as much as the next guy, but when it comes time to start busting ass and working, I am all in. Playtime is over and work mode kicks in. As a test rider I am representing myself and am expected to be professional at those times. This includes not riding like a jackhole at intros, treating people with respect, not looking like I just woke up on the beach the night before, not showing up to the track late or in old, thrashed riding gear and not typing up a second grade opinion of something on an iPhone. Being able to formulate a solid opinion is not only helpful, it’s essential; what good is a rider who can feel what a bike is doing, but can’t put it into words. Or if a rider just starts making up shit to sound like he or she knows what the hell they are talking about. Being punctual is also key when turning in reports on time. I get so many kids that just want to ride the bikes and then go home to throw up an Instabanger to pull chics. Go home, get the report/opinion done and send it in. That is how I got more work. It’s surprising how much of a big deal that is to companies. So many people want to do the fun shit, but not the hard stuff afterwards. Lastly, if you don’t know how to spell at least 90 percent of the words on your report, go take a college course, so you can have the complete package or “The Quan” as Jerry McGuire would say.

Be Consistent:

As with many things, consistency in testing your own stuff is key. Know what you like and stick to it, but again, don’t be afraid to be flexible and try new things. Don’t ever use the word “perfect” in the testing world. There is nothing perfect because everything can get better through testing. An old saying goes “you’re only as good as what you try”. I try to live by that motto when it comes to testing. When I work with manufacturers, consistency is also important because it provides a common goal to work toward. We always have a baseline setting that we are looking to get better than and sometimes we will re-visit that baseline setting along our testing path. Consistency on the track plays a big roll to making bikes better as well. When on the track make sure to hit the same line every lap when you’re testing, so your feeling on the bike never sways one way or the other. If you pick a smoother line one lap and miss the bump you were hitting, you’re not getting an apples to apples comparison.

Help Wanted:

The worst way to approach any one in the industry is to walk right up and demand to be allowed to ride a bike. Instead, it’s better to prove that you have the skills to be a good test rider and that you can follow it up with consistent feedback and valuable opinions. I like that a few riders have given me (at the track, I may add) professional printed out tests of their machines and that goes a long way in my eyes. If you have taken the time to architect an article on your machine and then have the balls to present it to someone, that shows responsibility, gumption, being pro-active as well as not being a lazy ass! All things that I love! If you’re serious about a job in this industry try a few of these things and see where it gets you. You will never know if you don’t try! See you at the track!  As always our door is open to you, the reader, if you have any questions I would love to hear from you! kris@keeferinctesting.com

Soul Riding On The 2021 Husqvarna FC250

By Kellen Brauer

 Keefer graciously has allowed me to test out the 2021 Husqvarna FC250 over the last couple months. I’m no expert rider, nor expert tester, but it has been fun trying to decipher more about the machine than just hopping on it and going. This is by far the newest bike I’ve ever really spent some time with as I own a 2002 Honda CR250 and haven’t personally owned a newer bike than my long-time companion that was the glorious 2006 Honda CR450F. Until this year even, I’d never spun any laps on a fuel injected machine. So, I’ve really tried to dig a much deeper hole in my brain to accelerate my learning of this much newer machinery.

Having filmed with Keefer on Racer X Films a lot this year, I’ve had the pleasure of riding the 2021 Kawasaki and KTM 250s along with this Husky. Right away, I felt much more connected with the Husqvarna. Both the Kawasaki and KTM had that snappy feeling you often experience on a 250F because you need to ride them harder than a 450 to get that true meat of the power down to the ground. The Husqvarna doesn’t have that same feeling to me. While it definitely works great when I ride it hard for the five corners that I can manage to go that speed, it feels easy to cruise a gear high and coast your corners as well.

I’ve put in just over seven hours on the bike and wanted to leave it about as stock as I can initially. I’m just at 6-feet and a hair over 150 lbs. so my style did take a little while to adjust to that lower ride height. I went down to 10.2 Bar on the pressure in the fork and two clicks softer on high speed on the shock (with a 102mm of sag) and it actually feels like I don’t need to do much more for the speed I go. What I initially struggled with was low speed chatter in the front end and I couldn’t find the middle ground where I didn’t blow through the whole stroke on high-speed landings. So, I went softer on the fork clickers first, but then went back to stock, then just tried to adjust the pressure and it feels like I’ve solved that issue so far. Big bumps and hard landings are no trouble and that tight/harsh feeling that I felt on small chatter is now gone.

Though the ride time has been short, I’ve put the bike through its paces. I raced it at Cahuilla, rode it at Pala, tried it out on an abandoned track called Amago and even went on long off-road rides in Ocotillo. The power delivery this bike offers handled every change in terrain I’ve thrown at it beautifully. Sure, a fifth gear sand wash in Ocotillo requires a bit more attacking than cruising through the silt on a 450, but that’s about it. Tight trails, sharp 180s on a track, sand whoops, long doubles, the power from bottom end to top end seems to have no problems adapting on how I choose to ride it. It honestly feels a little bit like riding a 350 when I ride this bike, with the only thing that brings me back down to the 250 reality is how quickly you run through the gears on occasion.

A few quirky things I have struggled with are the need to take the whole muffler off to get to one bolt when you remove the lower right rear side panel, and the headpipe sticks out just a touch too far apparently. With the trail riding I’ve been doing, I’ve needed to plant my foot in weird spots or actually step off the right side of the bike to swing it around a couple of times. I’ve now burnt my pants at the knee three separate times on the header while doing this. The expletives have been aplenty.

The next steps I have planned are likely to go to a taller bar as the stock one is just a bit to low for me. I adjusted the angle of it as I tend to ride over the front of the bike a bit more, but that only seemed to pull my shoulders forward and not actually help me with maneuverability. I’m definitely also getting a carbon fiber headpipe guard, but that’s really just because I need to protect me from myself apparently. I really don’t want to finick too much with the power as I love it currently, but I’ve thought about maybe going up a tooth on the sprocket to just widen that range a bit more. I also think I’m not done with adjusting suspension even though I’m happy with the current setting, so maybe just having them valved to my weight and speed will do the trick.

Either way, I’ve been pleasantly surprised with the feel of the bike so far. I loved it the second I hopped on it and I still love it now. Thinking back to the last time I had a 250F in 2010, I remember loving the bike, but feeling frustrated with how hard you had to ride it at times. I haven’t felt that once with the Husqvarna. Working a desk job for Racer X and running my own business on the side, I don’t always have an abundance of time to hit the tracks, so having a 250F like this one that doesn’t pull my arms out of socket, yet still easy to be lazy on like a 450, is perhaps the perfect balance for me. I’m definitely looking forward to continuing dialing in the bike to my liking more and more. Stay tuned too Keeferinctesting.com and Racerxonline.com for more updates on the 2021 FC250.

2021 KTM 350 SX-F East Vs. West Settings Comparison

Written By: Kenny Day

East Vs. West? Yep, you heard it correct.

 Hello everyone, 

Kenny here with Keefer Inc. Testing and West vs East is my new focus, no this is not a competition of what coast has the best riders, or dirt, because we know that east coast has the best dirt, but simply trying to solve a burning question I’ve had personally. WOULD MY SETTING STILL BE APPLICABLE ON THE EAST COAST? This is something that I wonder at times and get asked a lot since I am an east coast native. Now that I live on the west coast and can migrate over to the east easier now to ride, why not quarterback this question a little more right? Keefer gave me a 2021 KTM 350 SX-F test sled to ride for the year and I was headed to my good buddy Luke Renzland’s place in Florida, so I thought this could be a perfect time to weave in a little test. Now “Dreamland” has a lot of sand, big jumps yet also has a mix of clay too. Unlike Southern California where Fox Raceway and State Fair is the softest dirt we have, Renzland’s place almost has a mix of all the conditions in one track, but the sand is much softer/grabby. In one area there will beach sand, in others deep clay and even in some parts of the track it will have a sandy/clay (AKA heavenly loam) in others.

Although I’m not the most experienced tester, I take pride in saying I’ve spent lots of hours on my dirt bike from coast to coast so I have a fairly good feeling on the bike. In this recent trip to Florida I had a very eye-opening experience that made me question some of my statements that I’ve relayed to the listeners/readers in the past. Over the past year I’ve fully adapted to the “west coast” style of riding as well as set up, hard pack – square edge tracks with some high speed, hang it out sections and the minute I did my first lap on a Florida sand track…..Well, I’ll just say it felt like my first day of riding back east again.  I spent the first hour of my day trying to understand how to ride sand and while I was taking a break trying to reduce the size of my forearms, I realized that my set up in California may not work on this rough, whooped out Florida track. I needed to get stiffer with my settings.

Immediately, I went stiffer on compression on the fork/shock.  The braking bumps form up different on the east coast, bigger, more spaced out and they get cupped out, so I found my suspension being further down in the stroke all the time when my throttle was turned off. There was noticeably more chassis pitching than out on the west coast and I could even use less engine braking out here on the east. I didn’t have a tunable ECU on hand to try this, but from my experiences that I have had with the Vortex ECU, that would have been a nice feature to have on the east coast. Less engine braking in softer conditions relaxes the machine and doesn't bind up the chassis going from on/off or off/on throttle. I also noticed that I get way more ass end high feel coming into corners because my fork was diving too much. My sag stayed the same at 98mm but on the high speed compression (on my shock) I changed from 1 ¾ to 1 ¼ out, allowing the shock to ride a bit higher in the rear. Now this may sound contradicting to some, but I did manage to go up on my air pressure to help balance out the higher feeling rear setting I was creating for myself. On the WP AER fork I also added more air pressure (up to 162-164 PSI from 155) as I was searching for more hold up. Once I did manage to tweak my west coast settings this gave me more confidence going into the bigger east coast bumps harder. The balance of the stock suspension felt better and I also noticed less harshness from the AER fork in the softer terrain than on the west coast where the bike can feel too rigid.

Although my changes were not major, the biggest thing that stood out me is how different the characteristics of the bike felt when comparing the different soils. The 2021 KTM 350 SX-F shines on hard park tracks of California and unlike the AER fork, the frame does a great job at absorbing the choppy conditions. However in the Florida sand, I found the frame had slightly too much flex in heavy load situations, which left me wanting to stiffen the bike up. This is where I would love to try some engine mounts or something to get me a little more stiffness under on throttle lean situations. On these east coast tracks, the KTM 350 SX-F wanted to wallow under load and then snap back the opposite way one off throttle. Going with a little stiffer chassis setting can help this area. The engine characteristics were similar from coast to coast, but I found myself revving the 350 out longer in order to get the orange machine to move forward in a hurry more through the sand. I feel like I wanted more torque feeling in the softer conditions (Map Two) and could handle more power, unlike the west coast where I liked that longer more linear/smoother power (Map One). 

 So to answer my own (and maybe yours) question of “ are the bikes still as good on the east coast”? My answer would be yes they are, but you will have to set them up differently than what these Cali magazine guys tell you. Luckily for us Keefer does have a sand track near his home in Hesperia, so at least his baseline settings that he posts are a blend of sand and hard pack/loamy tracks. Not east coast style but at least it gets you closer to east coast settings. The tackiness of the east coast dirt is like no other and I am fairly sure that Keefer and I will be going back east more in 2021 once this pandemic is over! The 2021 KTM 350 SX-F was still an absolute dream to ride for me on the east coast ( I love this bike), but I can certainly say that a little more bottom end power is in order on this machine for anyone that is living back east (that is a heavier rider or an intermediate level rider or above). For more specific details on my baseline settings for both West and East please see below.

2021 KTM 350 SX-F

East Setting:

Fork:

Height: Second Line

Air: 162-164 PSI

C: 13 out

R: 20 out

Shock:

Sag: 98mm

HSC: 1.5 out

LSC: 8 out

R: 16 out

West Setting:

Fork:

Air: 155 PSI

Height: Second Line

C: 17 out

R: 22 out

Shock:

Sag: 105mm

HSC: 2 out

LSC: 11 out

R: 18 out

2021 Husqvarna FC450 Baseline Stock Suspension Settings

By: Joe Oehlhof

So for this year I've been tasked with shaking down and dialing in the 2021 FC 450 and I wanted to start by riding it stock for a few hours and finding a direction to focus my time. As enticing as it is to ride a new bike and immediately want to start making changes to suit you, sometimes this can be counter productive, especially if this is a bike with significant changes from the previous year or if its new to you. For me it’s best to ride the bike in stock form, get used to it, become comfortable on it and start finding things you wish were better.

The first couple rides on this bike gave me some areas to focus on and the first area I want to tackle is suspension, but first a quick synopsis of the rest of the bike: The motor was a good mix of power and tractability and the option of 2 different maps gives a little more tunability to mapping for different scenarios, which I will get more into after I dial in the handling and suspension. The rider triangle suited me well and I was comfy right away. The bars, levers, grips, footpegs, brakes, shifter, seat and all the other components that make up the ergos were easy to get used to and I needed little to no adjustment. Lastly, the stock gearing was matched well to the power character of the motor and didn’t have any delayed recovery areas when shifting. Overall a very solid bike in stock form that I'm excited to try and improve on.

Typically stock suspension is a little on the soft side for me with my weight being 190lbs and I'd like to think I'm still able to go somewhat fast for a couple laps. As most of you already know stock bikes are designed to suit a broad spectrum of rider size and ability and if you're on either end of that spectrum, getting stock suspension to work for you can be a bit difficult. For me the AER fork on the Husqvarna/KTM have come a long way and once you settle on an air pressure, you can fine tune the feel with the compression and rebound clickers. Initially I started with the recommended settings that you cand find on a sticker on the back of the airside fork. I like that Husqvarna did this because it gives you a starting point and as we get older sometimes we forget what the stock settings are. The recommended settings were 10.7 bar or 155psi of air in the fork, compression at 12 out and rebound at 18 out. This setting was, as suspected, too soft for my liking and after testing at State Fair and Glen Helen I found a base line setting of 11.1 bar or 162 psi of air, compression at 10 clicks out and rebound of 18 out. With this I had no issues bottoming on hard landings as well as bump absorption/hold up/traction were very good even at GH late in the day.

The shock was a bit more difficult to find a great setting for, but that is due to my weight of 190lbs and needing a stiffer spring. The action of the shock wasn't bad, my issue was with a spring that was too soft. The shock was riding too low in the stroke which caused a low squat in the apex of turns and a soft blow thru feeling on transitions, whoops, and hard landings. As I said this is easily fixed with a stiffer spring but when striving for a stock base line setting you do the best with what you have. I ended up going with 98mm of sag, high speed compression at 1/2 turn out, low speed compression at 8 out and rebound at 12 out. Now some of you may ask why I didn't go further in on compression and I did try that, but the action on acceleration chop/braking bumps suffered when things are closed off that much. The soft feeling on landings, whoops and turns was more manageable than the instability in choppy acceleration bumps or entering braking bumps at speed. Not the ideal trade off, but again if you have to make do until you get the correct spring rates or a revalve, these settings should work for you. At the end of the day this base line set up allowed me to get more comfortable at speed and gave me a direction of the areas I want to improve.

Lastly, I have been asked a couple times if I noticed the bike feeling lower since this bike has been lowered 10mm from the factory. For me the bike does feel more compact, not necessarily small or low, but I'm able to move around easily on this bike and not feel out of position. The only time the bike felt low was in deep ruts. I noticed feeling the frame hit the sides of the rut, but this could also be due to the soft spring. Its definitely an issue that can be sorted out fairly quickly. I am excited to keep working with each area of this bike and I'll keep you guys up to date on the changes I make. Stay tuned

2021 Yamaha YZ125X Review From A Doctor's Point Of View

Dr. Gardner Tarlow has been my doctor for may years. Dr. T has helped riders like Tim Ferry, Ricky Carmichael, Travis Preston, among others over the years. Dr Tarlow also loves to ride and just like you and I finds his spare time at either the track or trails of Southern California. He has been bugging me to ride the YZ125 X since it came out last year so I thought it would be a good read to hear what an average Joe rider like Dr. Tarlow thought of the YZ125X. Here are his words. -KK

The YZ 125X was designed to be a closed course GNCC style race bike. It’s hard to imagine that a YZ125 with more bottom end, softer suspension, feather light and an 18” rear tire wouldn’t make a good GNCC race bike. Unfortunately, I don’t live on the east coast and my version of cross country is the high desert all the way to the foothills of the California mountain ranges. This means everything from sandy, rutted, rocky, hard soil with technical long hill climbs.

I was lucky when Kris gave me the opportunity to ride the 2021 YZ125X. To be honest, I had been bugging him to ride this bike since it came out in 2020. So naturally, it took me by surprise when he offered to let me ride the 2021 bike and write up a review.. Kris has a lot of options when it comes to having people test bikes and I didn’t imagine I would even make the list. I would consider myself an open novice for both motocross and enduro. I am not the target market for this bike. I already have my AARP old man card and at 5’10” and 190lbs without riding gear. It’s safe to say, I definitely put this 125s ability to perform well in the hills at a disadvantage.

My first few rides were at Glen Helen Thursday practice, followed by multiple days at Cahuilla Creek. At 190lbs I’m not the ideal rider for any stock 125 motor or suspension. Most important for me was to assess the performance of the motor. I’ve rode a few different 125s and I was curious to see how the motor would differ. Out of the box, the jetting on the bike seemed appropriate and pulled cleanly in almost all riding situations. Under heavy downhill braking, the motor seemed a tad rich and hesitated with a slight bog. Turning the idle up and resetting the air screw cleaned this up somewhat but most likely the bike needed a change of needle height. The motor had a good bottom end with strong mid and top end performance. The top end power and pull seems to flatten out more than a regular YZ125 but then again, each bike is designed for different purposes. Although the top end isn’t the same as most track 125s, it pulls plenty well for track practice days or club racing. When I found myself in the wrong gear, a quick fan of the clutch and the motor lit right up, minimizing my poor riding technique. I gladly would give up the top end performance for the enhanced bottom end grunt, if that term can be used for a 125. I had forgotten how busy you need to be to keep a 125 on the pipe. The suspension in general was not designed for my size, however I was able to dial it in to where I could ride it without major issues. I eventually settled on Fork compression 10, rebound 7, forks 7mm up in clamps. Shock at 103-104mm race sag (free sag 20mm, need stiffer spring) low speed compression 10, high speed compression 2 and rebound 8. Despite the bike being significantly under sprung for me, the bike didn’t have any harsh landings or do anything to spook me or make me feel like I needed to back it down. Once I got the suspension dialed in, I was able to take any line I chose and the bike had that classic 125 feel and sense of just falling over into turns and railing ruts. For a bike that I was hoping could serve dual purposes, this little 125x was a blast at the track. With the exception of having a kickstand stare at me each time I came back to the pits, I would’ve thought I was riding any stock 125 that had a really good, broad powerband.

I initially went to the track because I always think it’s easier to dial in a bike at the track versus out in the hills. I knew from a chassis and suspension perspective this 125x was going to be a blast on tight, undulating, rocky single track. The suspension being a bit under sprung was somewhat of a benefit and less of an issue for the slower speeds and rocky terrain. I actually liked that when I sat on the back of the seat the bike would squat a bit more and allow me to touch the ground, making it easier to pivot the bike more so than my properly sprung KTM 300XC. My bigger concern was that, despite being impressed with how well the 125x pulled up the hills at Glen Helen, could it pull the long hills we ride out in the high desert? Rolling off the throttle or chopping the throttle on a big hill climb is hard enough to recover from on a 300 but on a 125? I figured it would make for a long day of failed climbs. To my surprise, the 125x climbed extremely well. I think because you have to charge up climbs knowing you have to remain in the throttle forces you into more aggressive riding and this got me looking further ahead. That old adage of keeping the throttle on and using the clutch to regulate the power has never been truer than on a 125. I intentionally put the bike in unfavorable situations on numerous long climbs and to my surprise, was able to recover quite easily. There were some technical climbs that had changes of directions and I didn’t seem to dig holes with the 125x the way my bigger bore bikes sometimes do. The more I rode this bike in the hills, the more I actually enjoyed the challenge of climbing on a 125x. In rocky technical sections I felt like I could put the bike wherever I wanted and was able to rock, clutch and pop the bike through difficult sections that I might otherwise struggle in.

One of my last rides I ended up getting lost for an hour on an extremely tight, single tire width, rutted old single-track trail off property in San Diego county. This trail was literally non-stop rutted turning with little to no straights for an hour. The 125x was finally in its true playground and it was without a doubt the weapon of choice. The ability to muscle it around, diving in and out of tight rutted corners, ducking bushes, trees and dry ruts, able to lug 2n​d​ gear and still have the ability to pull out of sections with or without the clutch made me feel like I had a distinct advantage over my buddies on their bigger displacement bikes.

As much as I liked the track days, I enjoyed this 125x out in the hills even more. When it came to undulating, rolling, tight single track, I started thinking, “I need to buy one of these for my bike quiver”. There may be better bikes for both enduro and moto specific riding, but unless you’re planning on racing a 125 or simply can’t fathom having a bike with a kickstand, the YZ125X can absolutely serve as a dual-purpose track and very capable enduro bike. Now the only question is two-stroke versus four-stroke... but we all know the answer to that. -Dr. Tarlow

Top 5 Mods To The 2021 Kawasaki KX250

We have just over 25 hours on the 2021 KX250 and so far we really love this machine. The KX250 is one of our favorite 250F’s to ride due to the work the Kawasaki R&D engineers made to the 2021 model . Although there will be a follow up article soon with some ECU and engine mods we thought why not throw up our initial top 5 mods that we have done to our worn in 2021 KX250. These mods below have improved the engine and chassis feel even more and as given us more confidence in the machine.

1. Pro Circuit Ti-6 Muffler System: Normally I DO NOT get more bottom end with a PC system (versus stock) on any brand of bike, but I was surprised that I got a little extra bottom end pulling power out of the PC system. RPM response is a little softer than the stock system, but when opening up the throttle out of corners the KX250 with the PC system pulls harder than the stocker. Mid range is where you will feel the meat of this power. When accelerating out of the corner and shifting to third, the KX250 doesn't have that “empty” feeling that the stock muffler has at times when the track is tilled deep. The PC system keeps pulling once the KX250 is shifted into third gear and continues to pull harder into the top end of the machine. Over-rev is as good as stock and I didn’t notice any loss of over-rev when swapping the two mufflers back and forth. 

 The only real negative I have found from the PC system is I wish it would have a little more low end RPM response. Like I mentioned that stock muffler has a great initial touch of throttle which can make the bike feel a little lighter when hopping over bumps or popping out of blown out berms. The PC system pulls better out of corners, but is just a smoother initial touch (AKA, low end RPM response). If you want more low end RPM response and could stand to lose some pulling power then take the screen out of the Ti-6. Doing this will give you more low end RPM response, but will hurt some mid range.

2. ECU Re-Mapping: If you want more pulling power as well as more top end install the “Chavez Map” with your Pro Circuit Ti-6 or any other muffler system and thank me later.  We used Kawasaki’s Calibration Tool to tweak the fuel and ignition timing in order to try and get some more pulling power out of the 2021 KX250. The map you see above will get you some extra torque when exiting corners while maintaining the excellent mid-top end power that the 2020 comes with. Use the stock green coupler with this ECU setting…

3. Gearing: 13/50 gearing is just fine for the Intermediate to Pro level rider with either the green or white coupler. If you’re a heavier rider that is lazier in corners you can try a 13/51 gearing to help you get back into the meat of the power sooner. We suggest using the green coupler with our preferred ECU setting with the 13/51 gearing however. This will ensure that mid-top end pulling power doesn’t fall off too soon.

4. 110 Rear Tire: A few manufacturers still like to run a 100/90-19 rear tires because it’s lighter. However, the 110/90-19 rear tire offers more traction and has better comfort on square edge, hard pack areas of the track. The 110 doesn't weigh the 2020 KX250 down in deeper soil that much and in fact, I see no negative on the track to going up a size on the rear. The Kawasaki has plenty of mid-top end to carry the small amount of extra weight the 110 carries. You will get more lean angle bite coming out of corners as well as increased stability with the 110. The 110 will fit on your 1.85 rear rim so don’t worry about your standard current rim size with the 110 rear tire sizing. I am currently running a 110/90-19 Dunlop MX33 on the rear of the KX250 with good results in soft to intermediate terrain. 

5. Pro Taper EVO Handlebar: 

 The stock Renthal Fatbar 839 handlebar is a great bend, but for me it’s still too stiff. If you’re looking to get less vibration and more flex out of your 2021 KX250 look into a Pro Taper SX Race bend as it’s only a couple millimeters lower than the Renthal 839 bend in height. 

Honorable Mention: Ride Engineering makes awesome one piece rubber mounted bar mounts that DO NOT twist like the stock ones have/can. The stock bar mounts are soft so going to these 100.00 bar mounts ensured my handlers do not twist in my clamps. I like the stock triple clamp for this machine so I left stock triple clamps on.

Maintenance Schedule: 

• Change oil every 2.5 engine hours with Blud Racing Pro Series 10/40

• Oil filter every other oil change

• New Chain guide/slider at hour 15

• Purchase a new throttle tube when getting new grips. (Stock grips are vulcanized to the tube)

• New DID ERT3 gold chain at 10 hours

• Running VP T4 race fuel

• Using Dunlop MX3S front/33 rear combo at 13.5/12.5 PSI

• Acerbis Plastic Kit at 20 hours

• Throttle Jockey Team Green Graphics Kit

Kids, Dirt Bikes, And Creating A Work Ethic

It seems I always do the most thinking while driving to and from the track. I am usually driving to a track 4-5 times a week and when I do, I sometimes think about where our sport is going, how I can help people within our sport, how can I improve Keefer Inc., you know shit like that? I am sure most of you that drive a lot are similar to me, so when I had these thoughts about writing an article on how you can build a solid work ethic for your child through dirt bikes, I immediately made a note into my phone to do this when I got back home. Instead of thinking how I can get my kid to “make it” within our sport of motocross, I think about how I can use dirt bikes as a tool, to help him become a better man for the rest of his life. That’s right! Imagine that! A dad that doesn’t care if his kid becomes a factory rider or not. A dad that doesn't care if his son ever makes a dollar in this sport. I want to be a dad that creates a love for motorcycling, so when he gets older and has real responsibilities, he can use dirt bikes as an escape from the day to day grind he will face or use that said dirt bike to create a hard working human so his foundation of hard work is there for his adult working career. Sure, I want Aden to enjoy the feelings we all get when we have a great day of riding, but if you have a child that rides or if you’re thinking of doing the mini parent/amateur national thing (like my wife and I are doing with Aden), here are a few things to remember when doing this as a family. 

A Kid In The High Dez: 

I guess to fully understand why I am writing this, I must first tell you a little bit about my background and where I come from. My dad was an auto mechanic for a water company in La Habra, California and was around dirt bikes and classic cars his whole life. My family would go out camping in the desert, on the weekends, so we could watch my dad race District 37 events, as well as get some quality time riding together as a family. As I got older, my dad could see that my passion for motorcycling was starting to grow, so he put me in my first race at nine years old and I was never the same. Now my dad didn’t have enough money for both of us to race, so good ol' pops stopped his own racing in order to put the little extra money we did have, towards my dumb ass. He worked late nights, side jobs, on weekends, just so I could have a new bike every two years and he tried hard to keep my bikes up and running, even though his kid was screwing them up every day after school. We never had the money to go back east to race, but he did what he could for me locally, so I could have a good time. If I wanted to race on the weekends, I had certain chores and grades that needed to be kept up. Through that I learned work ethic without even me knowing. Of course at the time I hated all of it and even skimped out some days when he wasn’t looking, but somehow I would always get caught not doing my work at home and had to forego some weekends of racing because of my laziness. Or like my dad used to say “I had my head up my ass”. Eventually I learned that I needed to do my work at home thoroughly to keep my dad off my ass, so as I reached my late teens I had a pretty good foundation of work ethic.

Teaching Our Kids Work Ethic Through Dirt Bikes: 

Once Heather and I could see that this dirt bike thing was catching fire within Aden we asked him what he wanted out of this dirt bike hobby and he responded with “I want to race and see how far I can go”. Since we know that only a handful of riders can retire from racing their motorcycle, we wanted to use the dirt bike way of life to create a work ethic for our kid, just like my dad had done with me. I learned early that if I was going to succeed in this sport, I had to work hard for it and I think that is like anything in life right? If Aden decides one day he is done with racing or maybe he only gets so far with this sport, he will always remember the work he put in and my hope is that work ethic will be rolled over into his new job/career. Plus having a passion and hobby you can come home to after work is huge for his mental state of mind.

 I am not hard on Aden for his race results, but I am a big believer of his effort during a race and his preparation before one. I sit down with Aden every week and go over the school and “work” schedule. Since Covid-19 has hit, his school schedule is a little different so he now can go to work/track with me and then he can do the school work required when he gets home. I am a big believer in public school and would much rather have him back in school (for interaction purposes), but I see no end in sight to this pandemic, so it looks like all of us parents are now school teachers as well. That is another article for another time, but Aden is expected to at least carry a “B” average in school or else his bikes are put to the side. I also put in place a riding program, so he knows exactly what he needs to do on the bike when he arrives to the track. If I have testing all day, I can’t sit there and babysit him, so having his schedule laid out makes for a seamless day for both of us. Once Aden gets home and his school work is finished, he must then get his bike washed and ready for the next day’s riding. After he is finished with his bike work, he either has gym work or a mountain bike ride with pops. At the end of the day, he is pretty spent and is usually out by 9:30. 

Heather and I also let him know that if he DOESN’T want to race these big amateur races that he is free and clear to let us know and all of this structure riding programming will cease. He can be a soul rider and just do this for fun, but that also means that his parents will not worry about new bikes, new gear, etc. If he wants to just “ride” and have fun that is perfectly fine with us, but he still will have to keep up with his grades, work around the house and also find something else to occupy his time besides video games. I like to leave it up to him what sport he wants to play, but he is required to have some sort of hobby/sport, so his idle hands will not get him in trouble. Dirt bikes kept me out of trouble from the greasy hands that is the high desert of Hesperia, California. I wanted to ride more than party and to this day I still think dirt bikes saved me from going down the wrong path. This is why Heather and I make damn sure Aden is busy with some sort of activity in this day and age. 

Money:

Here is the big kicker right? I mean without money, none of this is going very far anyway right? You don’t need to go to Loretta Lynn’s, Mini O’s, etc. to create a work ethic for your child. This is where I think some of this amateur national stuff gets lost in translation. Do you NEED to be a champion at the amateur level to get help from manufacturers? Absolutely not! Does it help? Of course it does! However, if you absolutely haul ass on a dirt bike, come from a good family and are a good kid, people or the industry will find you, trust me on this! All of this amateur shit is super expensive and not necessary to get your work ethic logic into your child’s moldable mind. If you don’t have a lot of money, instead maybe stay close to home and do a local series that gives awards as well as payouts to the riders who do the whole series. Make that series your Loretta Lynn’s. Get your child to work hard for that series ending points finish and teach him the value at sticking to something even though he or she may have a bad race or two. Most kids (including me when I was young) want to give up once they do bad, but making sure they see their way through the whole series will give them a sense of accomplishment. When I rode for the Bullfrog Spas/MotoConcepts Honda team at a couple AMA Nationals in 2019 I sucked as hard as anyone could suck! However, I used my crappy finish to teach a lesson to my son. Sometimes you suck even when you work your ass off! IT HAPPENS! Does that mean you just give up? I didn’t give up! The following year we set new goals as a racing family and we accomplished two out of the three goals in 2020. Doing this showed him that it’s possible to rebound from failure. WE ALL FAIL MORE THAN WE SUCCEED! A man smarter than me once told me this and it has stayed with me all of my adult life. 

Family Sport: 

I can’t say this enough… If it wasn’t for dirt bikes, I probably would have got in more trouble than I did when I was a kid. I wanted to get up in the morning to ride, which led me to not partying at night with my friends or doing drugs and that is something that the high dez is known for. Life can suck kids in and spit them out, no matter how good of a job you do at parenting, but dirt bikes can give them drive and hope. It did for me! You also may be asking yourself, “but Kris it’s a dangerous sport”. This is also something I struggle with at times too. I don’t know how my parents were so damn calm when I raced. I am more nervous watching Aden race than I am when I am lining up to the gate. I want my kid to be as safe as possible, but I also know that this is something that he wants to do. I mean I do this sport as well, so how can I tell him “no” when I am taking the same risks myself. What I do let him know is that this sport is dangerous and he can get seriously hurt or even worse lose his life doing this sport. I also am very adamant about teaching him everything about safety on the track, how tracks form, what to do and what not to do. I am big on technique first and speed second. I am the type of dad that tells him “DO NOT JUMP THAT”! I am more about safety than speed. Of course he doesn’t always listen to dad, but I know that he hears me, so I make damn sure that I am always up his ass every time he swings a leg over a bike. He knows what CAN HAPPEN! It is up to the parents to decide when a sport is too dangerous for their child and not anyone else. I always seem to revert to my dad’s old saying of “pull your head out of your ass son and look around”! 

Rewarding Feeling:  

Getting to share the same feeling that I get through dirt bikes with my son is something that I can’t explain. On the way home from the track we talk about line choice, how a certain jump on the track felt when hitting it, how good that inside rut was and so much more. Not many sports in our world can let the father/son relationship grow because they share the same feelings of a sport on the exact same thing and on the exact same day! It’s unreal! Dirt bikes are more than just going fast. It is a tool for adult life! Hopefully it can be a tool in your household as well. Here's to all the mini parents out there doing it for the right reasons and we hope to see you at the track soon! 

2021 KTM 450 SX-F Baseline Settings/Top Mods

The 2021 KTM 450 SX-F orange brigade is an amazing machine to ride! It only gets better with some modifications and some tweaks. The KTM 450 SX-F responds well to a few mods and with that makes for one hell of a fun motorcycle to ride/race. Here are few things that you can do to make your 2021 KTM 450 SX-F better. Do one or do them all, but just note that each mod makes enough difference on the track for my tired old ass to type about it when I get back to the office.   

Engine/ECU: For 2021 KTM has a better ECU setting and although it’s clean, I still would like some more added RPM response/puling power. I have been on the Vortex ignition bandwagon for a couple years with this machine and for 2021 it hasn't wavered. If you want the same great rear wheel connection as well as more pulling power everywhere, look into a Vortex ignition from Chad at XPR Motorsports or Jamie at Twisted Development. I have turned a lot of KTM riders onto this mod and have had a 100% approval ratio. What I like about this modification is that it doesn't hurt reliability and makes for a very usable yet powerful engine for almost every type of rider. Yes, it will set you back around $800.00, but to me is much better than slapping on a muffler system and will do more for your engine. A stock re-map will not get you nearly the rpm response or pulling power that a Vortex will give you. Another good reason to get a Vortex ECU is that they have great resale value. You will also most likely be able to keep that Vortex ECU in circulation (if you get a new 2022 KTM) until 2022.5 as that will most likely be the year that KTM will release it’s new model. 

Suspension: If you haven't listened to my WP XACT Pro Components suspension podcast you may want to at least check that out, but if you're sticking with the stock suspension for a while, you can try this setting to see if this helps comfort when the track gets rough. This setting below should be in the ballpark for riders around 165-200 pounds, but if you’re heavier than 200 pounds going to a stiffer rear spring will help the ride attitude of the KTM. I have went to several tracks and tried many different settings, but this specific setting had the most “track toughness”. The KTM’s stock WP suspension doesn't quite have the comfort like the Husqvarna does, but the KTM/WP set also holds up more in the stroke, which is a better fit for me personally. To get some added comfort back with the added hold up, try this setting. 

Fork (Stock Triple Clamp): 

Height: 5mm

Air Pressure: 11.0 Bars

Compression: 13-14 clicks out

Rebound: 15 clicks out

*With KTM Hard Parts Triple Clamps or Ride Engineering Split Clamps*

Height: 5mm

Air Pressure: 11.1 Bars

Compression: 15-16 clicks out

Rebound: 13 clicks out

Shock:

Sag: 104mm

Low Speed Compression: 10 clicks out

High Speed Compression: 1-1/2 

Rebound:  11 clicks out

WP XACT Or Spring Conversion:

This is a question I get a lot! Which is better? Should I get a spring conversion or XACT Pro Component fork? I have tried Enzo’s KYB conversion as well as a REP valved XACT fork and both have their advantages. The Enzo KYB conversion soaks up small bump/hard pack chatter better than a REP XACT fork, but the REP XACT fork moves less and to me has slightly better performance with slightly less comfort. Both spring set ups are better than other re-valved AER set ups that I have tried and to me the spring set ups are way more consistent throughout the day. You will have to decide on how much money you want to spend (Enzo KYB Spring Conversion is around $2000.00 and the XACT fork is around $3000.00) as well as what type of rider you are in order to get the most out of your suspension. If you like a fork that moves in the stroke a lot and follows the ground well (front tire contact patch), the KYB conversion is great. If you want the most hold up as well as a fork that allows the rider to charge/hammer through big bumps easier, the XACT fork set up is also a great choice.  

Chassis: Aftermarket engine mounts are all the rage right now and some of you may not have the money to spend on a pair of engine mounts for your KTM. I will say that I do feel like the KTM chassis is stiff when new, but be patient as it will break in and feel better after 15 hours or so. I decided to play around with torque specs on the engine mounts for fun and stumbled across some more comfort. If you’re experiencing a stiff feeling chassis sensation and want the KTM to settle while leaning (under throttle), there is an inexpensive way to achieve some extra front end traction (as well as an overall more planted feel). You can torque all top engine mount bolts to 30Nm. This band aid will give you a more planted sensation when on throttle while leaning the KTM 450SX-F through sweepers and fast straights. You will have to make sure that all engine mount bolts have blue Loctite to ensure they do not back out (you should do this regardless if you keep all the bolts in or not). You can also try torquing your swingarm pivot bolt to 95 Nm (instead of 100Nm) to help rear end traction out of corners. The downside to doing these mods is that the chassis will flex a little more, so if you’re riding deep tilled tracks this modification might have too much flex for some (especially when chopping throttle).  

Handlebars: The stock Neken handlebar is too stiff and doesn't offer too much comfort. Throw them in the trash. Get yourself a set of Pro Taper bars and make your arms and hands happy again. The Pro Taper SX Race bar worked well for riders from 5’8 to 6’1. The SX Race bend comes in a crossbar or crossbar-less style and is 800mm width, 87mm height, 54.5 rise, and 54mm sweep. If you’re looking for a better “stand up feel” from your KTM look for handlebar close to this measurement. If you do like the stock bar try the Pro Taper Husqvarna Stock bend with 5mm bar mount risers (Ride Engineering sells these).  

Triple Clamps: After riding back to back with the stock triple clamps, the KTM factory clamps and the Ride Engineering clamps I have realized that the stock clamps are stiffer. I have since installed the Ride Engineering triple clamps on our 2021 KTM 450 SX-F with excellent results. The front end has more of a softer initial touch on slap downs and the fork action is smoother on de-cel bumps. It’s crazy to think that the fork feels softer now with the Ride clamps installed, but that is exactly how it feels when riding on the track. I was able to increase my air setting on my fork to help hold up off-throttle and kept more comfort through the entire stroke (with the stock AER fork). I also get slightly more lean angle front end traction (or cornering stability) with the Ride clamp because the front end isn't bouncing around inside long/choppy ruts. The KTM factory clamps are close in comfort to the Ride clamps, but offer slightly less straight line front tire feel.  

Rear Brake Pedal Spring: Purchase a Honda CRF450R rear brake pedal spring with the rubber around the spring. The KTM rear brake pedal spring vibrates and will break every 3-4 engine hours. Orrrrrrrrr. Get a Fasst Co rear brake return spring and be done with it! Fasst Co’s rear brake return spring offers tunable pedal resistance and a more controllable feel by placing the spring in compression instead of tension, minimizing the "on-off" feel of most rear brakes. 

Gearing: I like the stock 13/49 gearing for most conditions. If you remember last year I thought 14/52 was better in sandier conditions, but have come to the realization that I liked the gear spacing more with the 13/49 gearing. 

Twisted Development Exhaust Flanges:

The Twisted Development exhaust flanges are shaped differently than the stock OEM flange, which can change the engine character of the KTM 450 SX-F. I went through several during testing and found out a size/shape that can actually enhance the low to mid range power character. Compared to the stock piece the TD Performance flange will give you better throttle response through area 2-3 (mid to exit) of corners. Another advantage to me is that the TD flange helps pulling power out of corners as well and helps third gear lugability. The TD flange just helps the RPM’s pick up quicker, which in turn makes the KTM feel lighter when the track gets bumpy. There is no need to remap your ECU and it takes minutes to install.  

 The TD flange works with the stock headpipe/muffler system or any aftermarket system. I tried it on a stock muffler system as well as a full FMF system and with both, the TD flange helped in aforementioned areas. For $200.00 bucks, to me, it’s a great way to get a little more snap out of your KTM 450 SX-F. 

Rear Axle/Axle Blocks: Going to a Works Connection Elite axle block kit or Ride Engineering axle block kit will get rid of the fixed left axle block on the stock KTM’s axle. This will help the rear end to move more freely under throttle and improve the shock’s comfort on acceleration chop. Both are great, but you will have to decide if you want a complete axle/axle block kit like Ride Engineering’s  or just the blocks themselves like WC’s.

Muffler: To me, FMF makes the best muffler system for the KTM 450 SX-F. There are some other companies that have other bikes dialed in more, but on the KTM, FMF has got it down. You will get more low to mid RPM response as well as more mid range pulling power. Top end is increased plus the over-rev is as good as stock. It is one of the few times that I was impressed because it was actually better than stock in almost all areas. The downside is that you must keep up on muffler packing (every 10-12 engine hours) because the FMF will blow out and that could damage your expensive titanium can. Did I mention that you will lose almost two pounds with this system? If you slap on spring forks you will be gaining almost three pounds. You can get most of that back with a 4.1 Titanium FMF Muffler system.

If you have any questions about any of these settings or mods please contact me at kris@keeferinctesting.com and I am happy to help you.

My Favorite 2021 Yamaha YZ250F Maps

Here are two of my favorite maps that I have tried for the 2021 YZ250F. Both give a distinct different feel, but each offer something that I feel the YZ250F needs. Yes, you can also try these in your 2020 YZ250F as well.

Less engine braking.

More mid range and top end pulling power.

Randy Richardson's World Vet/2021 YZ250F Experience

#WhatTheHelen 

 It started with a text message. Steve Matthes sent a photo to Kris and me Sunday evening, November 1, of a freshly installed MICHELIN® StarCross® 5 Soft front tire along with the comment “World Vet prep”.  Ever being the jokester, my quick reply was; “When do I need to fly in?”From there, things escalated really quickly. Their plan, that I’d invited myself to be a part of, was to race the Saturday motos of the 36thAnnual Dubya USA World Vet MX Championships. The race is rich in history and continues to honor the late Tom White whose passion for motorcycles has inspired many. If you’re like me, hearing last year’s Medals Up episode of the PulpMX Show and the epic banter and laughter regarding the event was something I regretted missing out on in 2019 and I knew I couldn’t pass up the opportunity to be a part of this year’s event. Thankfully I was able to move some meetings around allowing me to take vacation days from my job at Michelin and redeem some Delta Sky Miles to book my flights for would certainly be an unforgettable trip. 

Being as much a fan of E-MTB’s as #StravaSteve , I flew into Las Vegas early Thursday morning to enjoy a nice mid-day ride with the Intense Tazer elite athlete before loading up and heading off for the drive down to the Hi Dez. Friday morning, I felt like I was sitting in on an episode of “Coffee With The Keefers” as I was, you guessed it, having coffee with the Keefers. Steve and I arrived to Glen Helen Raceway for the Friday practice and unloaded our matching 2021 Yamaha machines. Steve’s an official #blUcrU Ambassador and would be riding his YZ450F that is set up for his weight and/or speed. I’d be riding a new Yamaha YZ250F thanks to Mike Ulrich of Yamaha Motor USA that thankfully I didn’t even have to install Michelin tires on as my buddy Matt Sirevaag had already taken care of that. Thanks Vaag! After going out in separate sessions for our first practice, I snuck out in Steve’s second practice session and dropped in behind him. After witnessing 4-Time’s smooth style and line selection first hand, I don’t know how that 5thManitoba title escaped him. Once finished, I leaned my bike against Steve’s Honda Ridgeline truck as my back had begun aching after only two practice sessions and placing it on the bike stand was not an option. I thought Steve would be OK with this parking technique made famous by his favorite rider’s son Beckett Ferry. Boy was wrong as he was not happy with me, which was only the first of many times during our time together.

We left the track then met Kris and Aden for lunch, where I told them about my lower back pain and limited range of motion. Kris quickly diagnosed this as Glen Helen Back as apparently GHB is a common condition due to the numerous square edges and braking bumps found throughout the famous hilly circuit. Needing numbers for my bike, Kris took us deep into the bowels of the Hi-Dez to a local shop called Mojave Motorsports in hopes of finding three packs of 2’s that I needed.  Though many motorcycle enthusiasts have shifted from brick & mortar dealerships to the larger click & order online retailers, I love visiting smaller family run Dealerships as they are the heart and soul of the power sports industry. Surprisingly enough, they had countless packs of 100% brand numbers available and I was able to purchase three packs for my number, 222.

After installing the numbers, I stuck pretty much every random sticker we could find onto the front fender in hopes of having the same style as DarksideMX’s signature graphics kit. The remainder of the day included visiting with all of the Keefer’s friends that dropped by unannounced, much to Steve’s annoyance. After Heather prepared us a home cooked dinner, which Kris put less effort into than I did parking the bike after practice, we sat around and listened to Kris tell us how a much needed rain was coming and how great the desert would be if we’d skip the race the next day. Though he made it sound appealing, I’d come to race and I went to bed early as my body clock was still on East Coast time. I quickly fell asleep hearing Kris in the living room still repeating his famous phrase “Desert Rats Assemble”!!!!!! We awoke to cool temps and overcast skies Saturday morning and my lower back was tighter than Jason Weigandt is with money. We piled into the Keefer Inc. Testing sprinter van and headed down I-15 and into the rain. We parked with the regular crew of Vaag, Janky Mike, Fireman Dave, and photographer Dallas Dunn who’d captured Steve and me riding in the perfect conditions during Friday’s practice. 

We unloaded the bikes and set up the canopies for shelter from the increasing rain. Ironically, Steve helped with the tents. As the rain began to fall harder, I overheard Kris talking with everyone in the sprinter about how we could just load back up and go ride the Hi-Dez where it hadn’t rained in over 150+ days. Once the conversation made its way to outside to me, I quickly vetoed that idea by reminding them that I had never raced at Glen Helen in over 54yrs and that I hadn’t flown across the country to go ride around burned couches, dishwashers, and abandoned cars in the desert. 

My first Moto was race 8 on the day and I think it was possibly the worst conditions possible. Having just finished race number 7, Janky and Vaag gave me some quick pointers as I selected my spot on the gate. Their key message was to take the inside line in the second turn prior to a steep uphill that lead to the highest point on the track. While Steve’s personal starts may not be his greatest strength, he is a former factory mechanic so his support on the starting line was greatly appreciated. He told me all the great tips he used to share with Timmy Ferry, who was known for his mid-pack starts, so I was excited when Mike Alessi walked up to us. Known for his holeshots and let’s just say creative technics, I asked Mike what number I should count to before dropping the clutch. With a blank stare back at me, I realized that either my sarcasm had eluded him or he didn’t find it funny. Thankfully Steve laughed as I hate wasted humor.  

When the gate dropped, I got a good jump and began clicking thru the gearbox of the Yamaha YZ250F and secured a pretty good start against the mostly 450cc bikes. Mid-way thru Glen Helen’s first turn “Talladega”, I pulled an outer tear-off from the EKS Brand Goggles they’d professionally prepared for me and headed down towards that second turn.  I tucked the bike into the inside line just like they’d suggested and any hopes of me becoming the 23rdStar Racing Yamaha racer in 2021 went away quickly as I also tucked the front end mid-corner falling into the muddy slop. Though I was still suffering from GHB, I was able to somehow pick the bike up and remount to begin climbing the steep hill in first gear. Despite rumors about how much I revved the YZ250F, I did NOT remain in first gear the entire race. During the remainder of the first lap I had a few close calls with other riders as I began working my way back towards the position I was in prior to my fall. I could hear the Keefer clan yelling for me as I ended the first lap and I headed back onto the start straight. Entering that second turn again, I decided to move out to the middle line as that inside line and I didn’t seem to get along very well.

Though I’m not sure where the San Andreas fault-line is located, I do know that gravity is much stronger in the second corner as another sudden gust of gravity pulled me to the ground a second time. I yelled “What the Helen?!?”.  Frustrated with myself, I remounted once again vowing to not fall in that corner the next lap. I guess you could say the third time around was an improvement as I did make it thru the corner that lap only to come together about a third of the way up the hill with a rider who I was passing. Laughing at the situation rather than crying, I picked my bike up again, downshifted into first gear and somehow was able to climb up the hill ahead of the guy whom I’m sure I roosted with mud the entire way up.  I’m sorry Sir. The track was very one-lined and I was mostly able to keep the bike in that one line, though sometimes drifting unpredictably similar to Musquin in a rhythm section. I was so proud of myself for not falling in that turn on the fourth lap that I gave the Glen Helen crowd, or at least my friends that were watching and laughing at me, a big fist pump as I cleared the top of that hill for the first time without issue. Having caught and passed many riders during the race, many of them multiple times due to my crashes, I finished the 50+ Intermediate first moto with a 3rd. Thankfully, the only thing that was more clear than my problems staying upright was the clear vision provided by the EKS Brand Goggles Zip-Off system that worked flawlessly throughout the moto.

I didn’t get as good of a jump in my second moto but my riding was much improved and I didn’t fall in that corner that’d been my nemesis during the first moto. Maybe the main reason was because immediately after my first moto, they’d blocked that corner with orange cones and re-routed the turn. You’re welcome everyone. One of the funny highlights of that second moto was me yelling “A-Ray” at a guy whose Akrapovic muffler was dangling down by the swingarm of his KTM450. I’d hoped that bringing attention to his misfortune would make passing him easier on the now even more one-lined track. Winning my class in the second moto was similar to when Lloyd rode the hog up to Harry in Dumb and Dumber as I’d totally redeemed myself! I was thankful that GHB was my only injury and I was proud of my 3-1 for 2nd overall results. 

We all headed out to watch Steve’s final moto of the day and though he’d gotten off the gate without incident in his first moto, I definitely didn’t want to miss any opportunity to witness something like his 2019 performance. Steve’s start issues couldn’t escape him as the rider to his right inadvertently hung a hard left just over the gate taking down 4-Time in the process. Knowing the incident would be talked about after the race, on Monday night’s PulpMX Show, and for years to come, I sure was glad I’d captured it all on video as it’d be proof for any differences of open as to who owned what percentage of the Blame Pie. Ok, let’s be honest, I was really happy that I had the video so I could create edits with the countless songs that immediately began popping into my child-like mind. We all watched Steve continue to push forward all the way to the end of the moto as the lyrics “I get knocked down, but I get up again”and “Stop! Drop!” ran thru my head. Fast forward to Monday night’s PulpMX Show. Ever the perfectionist that has resulted in his fan favorite platforms, Steve was NOT happy with my derailing of his show by airing some of the videos I’d created. In the studio, there was more tension than in the spokes of a brand new set of Dubya USA wheels. If you didn’t get a chance to watch PulpMX Show #444, please do as it’s a classic with Steve angrily removing his headphones similar to Kenny Watson prior to one of his many mid-show walkouts. I truly am sorry Steve and you’re welcome Pulp Nation.  

I simply can’t thank the Keefers and the Matthes’ enough for their hospitality and for making this fun trip possible for me. Your friendships are a blessing and if you’re ever in Piedmont, SC, you’re more than welcome to stop by my house anytime, even unannounced. 

2021 Honda CRF250R Baseline Settings/Top Five Mods

My son Aden and I have been riding/racing the 2020 Honda CRF250R for over a year now and since Honda left the 2021 Honda CRF250R unchanged, I decided to get you some notes on some baseline stock settings, as well as some mods that you can do to improve your CRF250R. Some of these settings/mods have evolved since last year as we learned more by going to a wider variety of tracks. 

Suspension: 

In stock form the Showa suspension on the 2020-2021 Honda CRF250R has decent comfort on de-cel bumps, but lacks a little hold up for riders ranging from 160-190 pounds. If you’re over 190 pounds going up a spring rate on each end is your ticket to a better handling CRF250R. After riding with this setting below at more than three different tracks, more than one time around, I figured out that this baseline suspension setting gave the 2020-2021 Honda CRF250R the most “track toughness”. If you happen to feel like the fork is harsher (through the mid stroke) with this setting, simply open up the rebound (faster) back to stock setting. This will help free up the fork slightly under front end load (off-gas). The shock needs just a little more hold up under acceleration so simply going stiffer/slower on low speed compression/rebound gives the rider more comfort and added traction out of corners. I tried experimenting with high speed compression, but the Honda is finicky with high speed. Going stiffer on high speed compression (shock) put too much weight on the front end (fork) creating a harsher feeling front fork.

Fork: 

Height: 3mm (Stock is 5mm)

Compression: 6-7 clicks out (Stock is 9 clicks out)

Rebound: 10 clicks out (Stock is 11 clicks out) 

Shock:

Sag: 102-103mm

High Speed Compression: 2-5/6

Low Speed Compression: 9 clicks out (11 clicks out is stock)

Rebound: 5 clicks out (6 clicks out is stock)

Chassis:

As of right now I prefer the stock engine mounts torqued to the OEM/manual settings. Some bikes react better to aftermarket engine mounts than others and as of right now I feel the best settings (for comfort) come from the stock engine mounts. Another way to get more compliance is to torque the swingarm pivot bolt to 52 ft.lbs. for increased flex/comfort under throttle, while leaning. If you feel like the rear end is planted and doesn't deflect under load on chop please leave it at the OEM/manual torque spec. If you feel like the Honda is standing up through mid corner simply go back up to 5mm on fork height with the above suspension specs to help mid corner lean.

Gearing: 

I went back and forth between the stock 13/48 gearing and 13/49, but ultimately decided on sticking with the 13/49 on softer tracks. Why? I felt the 13/49 gearing made second gear less usable, but helped me get into third gear quicker. If you’re riding a tight track and suffer from bad corner technique going to a 13/49 could benefit you more. Decide which tracks you ride the most and what type of rider you are in order to decide which way to go with your gearing. 

Steering Head Nut:

Do yourself a favor and tighten up the steering head nut a little on the 2020-2021 Honda CRF250R. The steering comes too loose from the factory and can cause some knifing in corners and can give you slight head shake on de-cel. Simply tightening the steering head nut a little makes the Honda’s front end feel more planted (less loose feeling) when performing corners/initial lean/turning the handlebars. This is a simple modification, but really helps the Honda’s ride attitude around the track. Sometimes it’s the simple/easy things in life that make a difference. Dirt bikes are no different. 

ECU Map Switch:

I like map three the best for most tracks around these parts and for more torque out of corners. Even though Honda improved their torque for 2020-2021, it still lacks some pulling power out of corners, compared to the Yamaha. Running the 2020 CRF250R in map three will benefit you the most in this situation. This is my preferred map, but map one is also very usable and can pull pull you farther in second/third gear. 

Clutch:  

Going to a Rekluse Torque Drive Clutch Pack will give you better clutch lever feel as well as clutch life. The engagement of the lever ratio doesn't change, but it lets you put more of that horsepower to the rear wheel, without slipping, when hard on the throttle in soft dirt. This is simply a clutch pack and not the complete system. You use the stock OEM inner, outer, basket clutch pieces with this kit. 

Cooling:

I am not going to sit here and say that Honda fixed ALL of their cooling issues with the radiator change they made for 2020-2021. The Honda CRF250R still runs hot and will puke some radiator coolant out of the overflow when riding in the higher RPM’s during a long moto (20-30 minutes). Just keep an eye on your coolant level if you’re riding in hot an or deep sandy conditions. I had to add a little coolant to the radiator on longer, hotter days here in Southern California. Don’t be lazy and you’ll be fine. Oh and don’t sit there in the pits, talking to your buddies while your CRF250R idles. IT WILL PUKE OUT COOLANT! See below for a band aid fix. 

Another Inexpensive Way To Get Less Rigidity:

Renthal Fatbars come stock on all CRF’s and while we like the strength/bend of the new bar, I still feel like they are stiff on slap down landings/square edge. Going to a Pro Taper EVO handlebar will take away some rigidity as well as give you less vibration to your hands. The 4mm wall thickness of the Pro Taper EVO bar is something I have tested back to back against the Renthal Fatbar. Even if you painted both bars black and sent me on a blind test, I would come back within a lap and tell you which bar was which. It’s that noticeable. If you like the stock bar bend try the Pro Taper EVO SX Race bend as that is the closest bend to the stock 839 Honda Fatbar. 

Renthal 839 Fatbar    (L) 802 (H) 91 (R) 51 (S) 51 (mm)

Pro Taper SX Race    (L) 800 (H) 87 (R) 54 (S) 54 (mm)

Top Five Mods:

Clutch:

Going to a Rekluse Torque Drive Clutch Pack will give you better clutch lever feel as well as clutch life. The engagement of the lever ratio doesn’t change, but it lets you put more of that horsepower to the rear wheel, without slipping, when hard on the throttle in soft dirt. This is simply a clutch pack and not the complete system. You use the stock OEM inner, outer, basket clutch pieces with this kit. 

Steering Head Nut:

Do yourself a favor and tighten up the steering head nut a little on the 2020-2021 Honda CRF250R. The steering comes too loose from the factory and can cause some knifing in corners and can give you slight head shake on de-cel. Simply tightening the steering head nut a little makes the Honda’s front end feel more planted (less loose feeling) when performing corners/initial lean/turning the handlebars. This is a simple modification, but really helps the Honda’s ride attitude around the track. Sometimes it’s the simple/easy things in life that make a difference. Dirt bikes are no different. 

Chassis:

Just like I mentioned above, I think the stock engine mounts are the best for feel on the track, but you can drill a 5mm hole in the middle of the top engine mounts if you still feel like you need more chassis compliance on square edge choppy tracks. This is a “FREE” mod that does help! I have learned this with the 2020 Honda CRF450R and this can also apply to the CRF250R

Boyesen Supercooler Kits:

The Boyesen Supercooler flows more water than the stock water pump on the 2020-2021 Honda CRF250R. Boyesen has been working on water pumps since the 90’s and the switch to four-strokes has only made Boyesen’s effort more important. The Honda CRF250R runs very hot. The Boyesen Supercooler can reduce engine temperatures by as much as ten degrees, as confirmed by tests at Team Geico Honda. How does the Supercooler achieve this? Hydrodynamics. Boyesen’s investment-cast aluminum water pump cover has bigger water inlets, a sculpted design, no casting seams, less restrictive corners, a more efficient impeller and less cavitation. Stock water pumps aren’t very hydrodynamic. Their internal shape and impeller can create excessive amounts of air bubbles in the coolant. Air bubbles lessen not only coolant flow, but the amount of coolant per cubic gallon. Boyesen’s Nautilus-shaped cover and impeller increase pump capacity. Boyesen’s water inlet has an increasing diameter and curved shape. This is a big improvement over most stock inlets, which decrease in diameter as they near the impeller and have a 90-degree bend at the pump. Boyesen’s patented impeller design is 25 percent more efficient at moving water than the stock Honda CRF250R design. While I don’t get much overheating in Southern California dirt, I have experienced some of those problems in deeper east coast dirt. Installing this Boyesen product has relieved some of the heat stress on the Honda and has allowed me to go more than one moto without having to add coolant to the Honda’s radiator. 

Yoshimura/FMF Muffler Systems:

Either one of these systems will give an increase in mid range pulling power (compared to stock) as well as some added low end recovery. The FMF has more snap off the bottom than the Yoshimura system, but the Yosh system will give you a little more mid range meat. Compared to the stock system either one of these systems is an improvement to me. The FMF mufflers are considerably louder than the stock system and the Yosh mufflers have a deeper tone in comparison to the stockers. For the money that you will spend on mufflers just know that you will NOT be getting a drastic change in overall power character. Both of these systems alter the engine character some, but don’t expect it to be a mind blowing experience after bolting either one of these systems on. Some motorcycles react better to aftermarket muffler systems than others. 

** Aden (my son) preferred the FMF system on his race bike as he felt more excitement from the FMF system compared to the Yosh system. 

Optional More Expensive Way To Get More Pulling Power:

The Vortex ignition mapped by XPR Motorsports or Twisted Development will give you more low end grunt as well as a pulling power that will increase the length of each gear. The maps that Chad at XPR and Jamie at Twisted have created will allow the rider to lug a little more without the Honda falling off as easy (AKA, more recovery). The down side is that it will cost you around $800.00 to get this mod. However, the plus side to this mod is that it will give you more overall pulling power than an aftermarket muffler system. 

Race Tech Re-Valved Suspension: If you’re looking to get your suspension re-valved for your ability and weight, Race Tech has great settings for Honda CRF’s. Some of the best suspension that I have tried on any late model Honda has been Race Tech. The stock Showa suspension is very good, but for my 170 pound frame it can be a little soft. Getting the Honda re-sprung as well as adding Gold Valves to my fork/shock has dramatically improved how I can push around the track when it gets rough. This mod is not for everyone as some can simply get away with stock suspension, but for those that are competitive and want to push harder into corners, Race Tech can be a great option for you Showa bump sticks.

If you have any questions about this test or the Honda CRF250R please feel free to email me at kris@keeferinctesting.com

2021 Yamaha YZ450F Baseline Settings/Mods

The 2020 and 2021 Yamaha YZ450F’s are identical minus some different graphics, so this gave me a chance to experiment more with standard settings as well as other aftermarket mods for this machine. For a bike that may get some flak thrown its way in the professional motocross racing world, this Yamaha YZ450F machine has treated me exceptionally well this year in my racing endeavors. I have won a Loretta Lynn’s title as well as a Vet World Championship on the exact same machine and haven’t had a huge maintenance list to go through.

Is the Yamaha YZ450F the lightest bike? No. Does it corner the best? No. Does it have the best cockpit? No. To me, when I answer those questions with a “no”, it doesn’t necessarily mean it’s bad. I don’t want a twitchy machine that has tons of cornering strength anyway. When you have a bike that can corner excellent, chances are high that you will have some stability issues. The Yamaha is a great middle of the road machine that does everything good. Below are some key settings, as well as mods, that I have rolled over into my 2021 YZ450F. These can help you drop your lap times, give you more comfort on the track and make a good bike, GREAT! 

Suspension: If you’re sticking with stock valving the 2021 Yamaha YZ450F’s suspension settings are still slightly soft (once suspension is broke in) at times on bigger bumps at speed. Going slower on the action as well as stiffening the compression really helps the whole bike remain planted around the track. The comfort that the KYB SSS fork/suspension has is unmatched and the track toughness it provides makes your life so much less stressful on set up. This setting below will work for most riders ranging from 165-195 pounds with no gear. 

Fork: 

Height: 5mm

Compression: 6-7 clicks out

Rebound: 7-8 clicks out

Shock: 

Sag: 104mm

Low Speed Compression: 8 clicks out

High Speed Compression: 3/4 turns out

Rebound: 7-8 clicks out 

Engine/Power Tuner App: I have tried several maps on the YZ450F, but have always came back to the two below. The stock engine has a lot of bark (rpm response) from 0-10% throttle opening and for the tracks that we have out here (on the west coast) it’s too much at times. For you east coast riders try the “TP5” map as that should be enough bottom to mid range delivery to get you out of that soft soil, yet keep it manageable/linear to hold onto for a 20 minute moto (YES, I AM JEALOUS OF YOUR DIRT!). For all the rest of you, try the TP 3.0 map as that is the map that I use 80% of the time. The linear/easy to roll on throttle delivery along with the longer pulling power that this map has makes it a tractor around the track. This makes connection to the rear wheel much more apparent with this TP version. Yes, these maps will also work on your 2019 YZ450F, so give them a try.…  

Seat: If there is one problem area of the Yamaha it is the seat. The seat still breaks down quickly and can feel clapped out. This makes you feel like you're riding in the Yamaha and not on top. I would say go get a taller GYTR seat, but for some reason, they don’t have any at this time! Come on GYTR, get it together! Since the tall GYTR seat is scarce at the moment, I am sticking with a standard height/density GUTS foam which is actually a little firmer than the OEM foam. If you still can’t find the GYTR tall seat then go to gutsracing.com and get yourself a standard foam.

MX3S or Pirelli MX32 Mid-Soft Front Tire: Yamaha will not want to hear this, but I feel the Yamaha corners better with a Dunlop MX3S/Pirelli MX32 Mid-Soft front tire rather than the stock MX33. If you’re having trouble with initial lean into corners, get yourself a Dunlop MX3S or Pirelli MX32 Mid-Soft front and thank me later. 

Gearing: I tried a 13/50 gearing set up for all you novice riders, but it didn't work as good as the stock 13/49 set up. The stock gearing is just fine for 90% of tracks because the Yamaha’s engine has so much torque that it can pull third gear. Yes, even for you novice riders! Third gear is that “lugable” that you will not stall through corners, just make sure to cover the clutch lever. 

Triple Clamps/Offset: The Yamaha YZ450F doesn't need aftermarket triple clamps nor does it need an offset change. The rigidity balance that the stock clamp has is a blend of comfort and performance that is hard to find with aftermarket clamps. Still having a hard time in corners? Don’t purchase clamps, simply go to a 102mm shock sag setting or go to a fork height of 7mm. I suggest trying one or the other, not both at the same time. This keeps balance as well as keep the superb bump absorption of the chassis/clamps. Some other machines accept aftermarket clamps better than others, but this Yamaha has the most comfort/performance with the stock clamp. Don’t go backwards on your set up by purchasing parts you don’t need!

Muffler: I go back and forth between the Pro Circuit and FMF muffler systems if I am not running the stock muffler. Both systems are smoother off the bottom end and pull more in the mid range than the stocker. I like this because it can actually calm the chassis down a little on acceleration bumps. There is nothing wrong with the stock system, but if you MUST get an aftermarket system go with one of these two brands. 

Enzo Re-Valved Suspension: If there is anyone that knows KYB suspension it’s Ross from Enzo Racing. Ross has been doing my Yamaha bump sticks for years and even though I can be a pain in the ass, the guys at Enzo always seem to find a setting that makes me happy. What exactly did I want to improve upon from the stock stuff? I loved that the stock suspension had tons of comfort in the small bump category, but I needed a little more hold up from the stock suspension when pushing it harder over bigger braking bumps. The fork has a tendency to dive a little when off throttle and that can upset the shock leading into area one of the corner. The Enzo guys improved upon the fork by adding more hold up with the valving, but not going so stiff that the Yamaha gave me deflection on braking bumps. Enzo also incorporated their spring tubes. When I tested back to back with the Enzo spring tubes as well as the stock spring tubes the Enzo setting gave me a little firmer feel through the mid stroke and allowed the bike to be more balanced off throttle (less diving). My fork is still relatively soft in terms of a setting, but it makes for more front end feel through corners and that is key for me because I am a front end steering rider. The shock was also firmed up so that the rear of the YZ450F didn’t squat too much under acceleration. An Enzo high speed adjuster was installed on the shock and that can be felt under heavy loads such as g-outs and jump faces. The Enzo adjuster is slightly different internally (the Enzo guys can explain it better to you then I can) than the stock adjuster, but on the track the rear of the bike tracked straighter under acceleration as well as kept a firmer feel to the end stroke. I kept the stock spring rate in tact on both ends of the bike, but only beefed up the valving in order to achieve a well balanced YZ450 on or off throttle.  

Vortex ECU: I haven’t been that vocal about this mod because it’s so hard to justify spending $800 bucks on an ignition when the Yamaha ECU/Power Tuner app is so good. However after working on a ton of settings on the standard ECU, I decided to try the Vortex to see if I could make the power broader with it versus the stock piece. I have worked on settings with Chad from XPR  and I can say that we have spent many days with at the track trying to make the Yamaha not spool up so quick (light crank feel). You might be asking yourself, “what the hell is spool up”? The Yamaha has a quick revving light crank feel and sometimes that feeling can cause lack of rear end traction when exiting corners. Now this is great when traction is high and the dirt is deep, but once the track gets rough, this Yamaha can be too much to handle compared to a KTM or Husqvarna. Adjusting the ECU via Power Tuner App helps a little, but for safety reasons Yamaha only allows certain parameters, but the Vortex ECU has a wider range of adjustment. Adding the Vortex ECU helps lessen engine braking and also gives the Yamaha a longer power character. Now usually when you get less engine braking in any particular engine character you might feel a more free feeling engine, but with the mapping that Chad created, it makes the power more controllable with less pitching off throttle. The maps that we came up with help rear wheel traction out of corners, allows the rider to ride in third gear even easier, yet allows me to use second gear longer out of corners. Once I got a map (with the Vortex) that wasn’t too powerful, I have noticed an improvement in chassis feel when the track gets rough. The YZ450F can be pushed harder through bumpy conditions now that the delivery of the Yamaha is much broader with less engine braking. I used XPR’s mapping in the Vortex ECU at Loretta Lynn’s and World Vets as I felt more connection to the rear wheel with Chad’s map at the end of the day. I would recommend anyone looking to get more connection as well as more power to get with Chad and ask for the Keefer National & World champion map.