X-Trig ROCS Tech Triple Clamp (2022 YZ450F)

It’s hard to find aftermarket triple clamps that are better than stock these days, especially on the Yamaha YZ250/450. So much is involved in making a triple clamp that flexes enough, but also has enough rigidity to aid the machine in corners as well. With the triple clamp flex character so important to chassis handling (on all motocross bikes) sometimes it’s tough to find anyone that can make a “comfortable” set of aftermarket triple clamps. Why do you need aftermarket triple clamps? Well sometimes it’s just for looks with some riders, but there are occasions where you might want another offset to help you get more stability or a sharper turning character out of your machine. In this case I was looking for the standard offset for a 2022 KTM Yamaha YZ450F and wanted to see if installing X-Trig’s on the Yamaha hurt or helped it. I was hoping to help cornering positivity without sacrificing rigidity balance. Oh and I also purchased these myself for $850.00! 

Enter X-trig’s ROCS Tech Triple Clamps and PHDS Mounts. “ROCS” stands for “Revolutionary Opposing Clamp System”. The ROCS clamp allows for precise alignment of the fork tube with opposing clamping surface patterns, the stiffness of the steering stem is specifically tuned to the respective motorcycle model, the steering-head bearing is already mounted on the shaft tube for convenience, a special fork slot and clamping area for precise fork operation, precise clamping with special screws for low torque specs, OEM attachments can be mounted without auxiliary material, and flexibility that is adapted to the fork with anodizing in the technical factory OEM look. The difference between the ROCS “Tech” and the ROCS “Pro” is the “Tech” uses a standard offset with a pressed shaft tube. The “Pro” has two offsets you can choose from by simply adjusting the shaft tube (or steering stem). I didn't feel like the Yamaha needed an offset change as the Yamaha is predictable on straight line and corners well, so I stuck with the “Tech” clamps. 

The PHDS (Progressive Handlebar Dampening System) is a system supported by elastomers designed to absorb engine and chassis vibrations. The system also dampens the forces acting on the handlebar in a horizontal and vertical direction, maintaining steering precision. The handlebar can be adjusted in 12 different positions when the PHDS is mounted. The Yamaha doesn’t necessarily vibrate more in the handlebar area than any other 450 motocross bike, so this isn’t something I feel the Yamaha needs particularly, but if it helps, so be it.
Installation of the ROCS clamp is fairly straight forward (with the pressed shaft tube). All you need to do is grease up the steering head bearing and slide the bottom clamp up in the head tube of the frame. Super clean! Mounting up the PHDS bar mounts is a little tricky as the mounts themselves have a lot of moving parts, so make sure to read the instructions to ensure proper mounting. Technical Touch offers optional PHDS bar mount elastomers that come in soft or firm, but I chose to run the stock medium style elastomers, which seem to be just fine for motocross conditions. 

I am super picky about bar positioning, shocking I know and the Yamaha isn't the best rider triangle out there, so I went with the second mounting hole closest to me (when sitting on bike) on the triple clamp with the PHDS mounts back. This handlebar position gave me a +3mm bar position (forward from stock), which I preferred as the stock positioning is a little cramped for my 6’0 frame. The PHDS bar mount itself is +2mm higher than the stock bar mount, which I was just fine with as I am using a SX Race Pro Taper EVO handlebar on the 2022 YZ450F. Having so many positions available for the rider is definitely a huge positive for adjustability with these ROCS clamps on the Yamaha to open up the cockpit for you bigger riders (5’11 and up). If you feel like you need a higher PHDS handlebar mount, X-trig also offers spacers to go under the PHDS mounting system. You can pick from 3mm, 5mm, and 10mm spacers.

So what did the X-trig ROCS Tech Triple Clamp and PHDS handlebar mounts do on the track? My goal for this test was to dissect the anti-vibration qualities as that seems to be the easiest to feel asap. I honestly didn’t notice any less vibration/harmonics through my Pro Taper’s, but I did notice slightly less vibration on higher RPM’s which I found strange. The PHDS mounts do help flex and are a little kinder to my wrists than the stock mounts. While I was looking to get a more precise front end feel through corners, without getting added rigidity on hard pack/rough straights, that is not quite what I found. Basically I got slightly less compliance on lean angle bump absorption so the front tire didn’t exactly feel like it was digging into the dirt enough for me on faster sweepers with chop. The X-Trig ROCS Tech clamp on the Yamaha YZ450F provided enough flex if I was heading straight into bumps, but once I started leaning into braking bumps to set up for the corner, there was definitely less comfort in that area compared to stock. There was some added rigidity when leaning when bumpy and that cause the fork to feel harsher. The ROCS Tech clamp is most noticeable in a positive way when diving deep into a rut where there is a huge load put on the front end, forced by the rider. The chassis positivity through this area is much better than the stock clamps. The stock clamps has a tendency to flex too much and give the rider a wiggle once off throttle in area 1-2 of corners, (on deeply tilled tracks or soft dirt) or give the rider an unsettled (dive) when dropping into a long/deep rut (this sensation can only be felt mostly by faster or heavier riders). The X-trig ROCS Tech clamp gives the front end less wallow (firmer) and more cornering stability once inside the rut (without upsetting chassis balance). Straight line stability isn’t as good as stock as you do feel more of the track under you (front end) on hard pack west coast conditions.

I do feel like slap down landing of the PHDS mounts are more absorbing and I like that feel to my wrists. I am almost keen to try these mounts on the stock clamp to see if that works as good on my old ass wrists! The overall weight of the X-Trig clamp and PHDS mounts are heavier than stock so know that you will be gaining almost a pound of front end weight on your machine. So at the end of the day am i happy with my purchase? I would say for this bike, no I am not. I will say that I have tried X-Trig’s on a KTM with really positive results, but this confirms to me that the average rider DOES NOT need these for his Yamaha YZ450F. Does that mean all aftermarket clamps are rated under the same umbrella? Absolutely not! Not every clamp is created equal. I will try some more aftermarket clamps on this machine in the coming weeks to see if we can keep the stock bump absorption while adding to that positive front tire feel in ruts. Stay tuned! 

Action And Reaction (Fork)

With every action there is a reaction right? This is no different when it comes to dirt bikes and the mechanics of each change/adjustment. Since suspension is always a hot topic with motocross machines, I thought why not give you guys some insight on what each change point/adjustment available to you on the fork, can do out on the track (good or bad). The action of one change can have reaction on the opposite end of the machine as well, not just the focused area. Here is a “fork” breakdown of action and reaction. Look for the “shock” portion of this article up soon right here on keeferinctesting.com. 

Fork:

Air Pressure: Effectively setting the air pressure in an air fork, higher or lower, is the same thing as going up or down on your spring rate. 

Action/Stiffer: Stiffening (or raising) the air pressure can allow your fork to ride higher in its stroke, can create more hold up on slap down, de-cel, etc., can make the ride attitude of the bike ride higher in the front, increase firmness in which you hit obstacles with the front end. 

Reaction/Stiffer: Going too stiff can cause harshness or a too firm feel when hitting bumps, can cause deflection when fork is light in its stroke (near the top), can cause less front wheel traction (especially on lean angle), pushing sensation through area 2 (middle) of corners, allow the bike’s ride attitude to be too front end high, effectively causing the shock to feel low in the stroke under acceleration, which can make rear end feel too firm or give rider less rear wheel traction. 

Action/Softer: Softening (or lowering) the air pressure can increase plushness, allow the fork to move further down in the stroke under load, make the action of the stroke faster, can increase front wheel traction (especially on lean angle), give a more supple feel to the hands through the bars. 

Reaction/Softer: Allow the fork too dive on de-cel, create a low front end feel that allows the rear end to kick you on braking bumps (rear shock overpowers the front end), causes too much pitching on/off throttle (teeter totter movement), oversteering through area 2 of corners, harsh feeling (firm) around the track because the fork is riding in the stiffer part of the stroke/damping, fork bottoms out more than 2-3 times per lap, can cause the shock to ride too high in the stroke and give rider harsh feeling off throttle. 

Compression: Compression damping/clickers are there for you to allow your fork’s stroke to stiffen or soften up when compressed. 

Action/Stiffer: Depending on if you’re a Showa, KYB, or WP rider will depend on how many clicks you can adjust to actually feel a difference. Showa forks are more sensitive to clicks than that of a WP or KYB fork. I would adjust one click per adjustment with a Showa fork and two clicks each adjustment with the other two brands if you want to feel a difference. Going to a stiffer compression setting on your fork can also give the rider a plusher feeling if he/she is too low in the stroke to start with. Stiffer can create better hold up in soft conditions such as deep/tilled loam, sand, mud, etc. Increasing compression can make the ride attitude of the bike ride higher in the front, as well as increase firmness in which you hit obstacles with the front end.

Reaction/Stiffer: Negative affects of going stiffer can range from deflection on/off throttle, rigidity feeling up, increased headshake on throttle, too firm of a feel when hitting bumps, harsh feeling through bars, less front end traction (especially on lean angle), pushing sensation of the front wheel in area 2 of corners, allow the bike’s ride attitude to be too front end high feeling effectively causing the shock to feel low in the stroke under acceleration, which can make rear end feel too firm or give rider less rear wheel traction.

Action/Softer: Softening the compression can increase plushness, allow the fork to move further down in the stroke under load, make the action of the stroke faster, can increase front wheel traction (especially on lean angle/more tire contact patch), give a more supple feel to the hands through the bars. 

Reaction/Softer: Allow the fork too dive on de-cel, create a low front end feel that allows the rear end to kick you on braking bumps (rear shock overpowers the front end), causes too much pitching on/off throttle (teeter totter movement), oversteering (knifing) through area 2 of corners, harsh feeling (firm) around the track because the fork is riding in the stiffer part of the stroke/damping (mid-stroke), fork bottoms out more than 2-3 times per lap, causes the shock to ride too high in the stroke and gives rider harsh feeling off throttle, unbalanced feel around track (more comfort in front end with less performance/hold up than shock).

Rebound: The rebound damping allows the fork to move faster or slower when compressed. It can also act as a type of damping force as well. 

Action/Faster: More front end traction because the fork is moving faster, which in turn is causing the front tire to get back to the ground quicker over bumps/square edges, can help straight line stability, can increase plushness through the beginning to mid stroke, can help from front end diving when jumping.   

Reaction/Faster: Can cause headshake on throttle, could make fork feel too soft on de-cel through braking bumps (diving), can allow front end to come up too high off faces of jumps (boner air), can cause pushing sensation of front tire through area 2 (middle) of corners/front tire climbing out of ruts, busy feeling front end, which can make you hold on too tight and cause arm pump.

Action/Slower: Can allow for more damping feel (firmer), slow the front end down off throttle which can give you increased front end traction in ares 2 (middle) of corners, less movement of the initial stroke/under throttle while hitting acceleration bumps, can brig front end down more off faces of jumps (less boner air).  

Reaction/Slower: Can give rider a harsher feeling on/off throttle when hitting bumps, could make fork feel too firm on de-cel through braking bumps (too high/harsh), front end diving too much (endo) off faces of jumps, can cause a ride attitude that is too low off throttle, that low feeling can give the rider less cornering stability through choppy ruts, allows the rear of the bike (shock) feel high in off throttle situations.  

Fork Height: The fork height can allow the rider to customize how much cornering ability he/she wants as well as stability by raising/dropping fork legs inside triple clamps.

Fork Height/Action: Raising the fork height can allow for increased lean angle front end traction, can give the rider a sharper cornering motorcycle, easier initial lean/tip in coming into corners, and a lower front end feel. Dropping the fork height can increase stability on throttle as well as cornering stability through area 2-3 of corners, can allow for a taller front end feel. 

Fork Height/Reaction: Raising the fork height can give a rider less stability, more oversteer (knifing) through corners, an unbalanced front to rear feel while riding, so sometimes running a lower sag setting (dropping the rear end) will help increase rear wheel traction through area 3 to exit of corners. Dropping the fork height can give a rider a slower cornering machine (side to side), a front end push through area 2 of corners, too high of a front end feel which, may force you to run a higher sag setting (raising the rear end) because the rear of the bike can feel too low under acceleration with the fork dropped in the clamps.

Dunlop MX12 Rear Tire (120/80-19)

Dunlop offers a wide variety of tires for us moto/off-road guys but you don’t see too many reviews of the MX12 scoop tire out there. I recently had the chance to try a 120/80-19 rear MX12 at a few different tracks that range from sand to intermediate terrain with the occasional hard pack afternoons at Glen Helen. The Dunlop Geomax MX12 rear tire is a soft-terrain tire designed specifically for sand and mud conditions. The Geomax MX12 is the replacement for the MX11 that was out a few years ago. The Geomax MX12 rear tire was made to try and improve performance in mud, sand and soft dirt while expanding the range of conditions it can be used compared to the older MX11 design. Dunlop designed the MX12 to have increased rear wheel acceleration traction, lean angle grip, improved control in ruts and enhanced bump absorption when coming into corners. 

Fresh Dunlop MX12

With Dunlop’s V-block tread pattern and over 1.5 inches between each row of knobs, the MX12 is can scoop dirt and help move the motorcycle forward in places where a standard MX33 tire would need more help. Additionally, the V-block pattern helps fling mud off of the tire and cleans it off in wet conditions. Dunlop’s block-in-a-block progressive cornering knob technology, used on the MX33 and MX53 tires, has been implemented on the MX12 as well to help cornering traction and slide control. Ribs have been added to the backside of the knobs to improve stability in braking and choppy rutted out corners. No matter how much traction you get out of a tire, it will never be good without consistency. Without these ribs, the steep knobs could bend and fold over, which you don’t want when trying to get on the throttle hard (while leaning) out of a corner. In the testing world, we call this “cornering stability”.

I have ridden with a Dunlop MX12 on 250 and 350’s before but this was the first time I have experienced it on a 450. It’s seriously like cheating when coming out of softer corners. Getting on the throttle harder is made easier as the motorcycle accelerates harder with less throttle. This also makes abusing the clutch much less and allows the rider to use less energy around the track. Another notable positive for me was being able to use alternate softer lines that were too deep for previously used soft to intermediate tires. Instead of sinking into soft soil, the MX12 tire stayed on top of the dirt much better than other soft-intermediate tires. When compared to the Dunlop MX11, the MX12 is easier to lean into a corner and maintain that lean in a choppy rut. Cornering stability has improved on the MX12 (compared to the MX11) and it’s also easier to keep that lean in a rut that is choppy and hacked up.

Dunlop MX12 With 6 Engine Hours Of Soft To Intermediate Terrain Time

The portion of the test where I was most impressed though was how the MX12 reacted to harder conditions. On intermediate to hard terrain, the MX12 dug into the dirt and hooked up surprisingly well. With the added stability from the reinforcing ribs and the staggered knob pattern, the MX12 felt better than some other intermediate to hard terrain tires I have ran lately. The downside to the MX12 was that on hard pack flat corners it doesn’t have the best lean angle grip. It will slide around more than I would like, but that is to be expected on hard pack with a scoop. However, if there was only a couple parts of the track that had hard pack corners (and the rest of the track was softer), I would gladly take this MX12 because that is how good it works on the other parts of the track. The durability of the MX12 is great if used on strictly soft terrain, but if used on intermediate terrain it can break down the carcass of the tire much quicker. The knobs will not chunk as quick as the carcass will break down. The ribs in-between the knobs will break down over time faster on hard pack. A starting point that I liked for air pressure was anywhere between 12-12.5 PSI.

Dunlop MX12 With 8.6 Engine Hours Of Soft To Intermediate Terrain Time

If you are looking to get great starts on softer conditions and hook up out of corners like you never have before, look at the MX12 scoop tire. This tire has changed my way of thinking when it comes to what I am going to be running on race day. I wouldn’t even mind running it on late afternoon motos at Glen Helen. Just because of the scoop design, don’t disregard this tire when the conditions go from soft to intermediate. This MX12 rear tire still hooks up well! You can find the MX12 over on rockymountainatvmc.com for $93.00.

Ride Engineering 23.5mm Offset Split Triple Clamps (2021 Honda CRF450R)

I have been looking for some added stability and comfort from my 2021 Honda CRF450R test machine since I got it and although my suspension setting has evolved/improved over time, I still need some compliancy from this machine. I have been working with Adrian over at Ride Engineering on some split triple clamps for over a year now and we finally have come up with a feel that I think is better than stock. I have yet to test any other competitors clamps back to back as Ride Engineering is one of only a couple aftermarket companies that are making different offset clamps. I have tried a 24mm offset on the 2020 Honda CRF450R and really liked how it made the Honda have a “slower” feeling chassis. Slower in this sense was a good thing for the Honda as it calmed the chassis down on rough tracks for me. So in order to get some added chassis compliance, I tested Ride Engineering’s 23.5 offset clamp for the new generation Honda CRF450R and here is what I took away from the test. 

Stats:

The Ride Eng. 2021 CRF450R/RX Split Triple clamps are available in Red or Black, come in two offsets and cost $649.90. Custom colors available for $100 additional if you want a custom set. The Ride clamps save you 10oz. in weight and come in 22mm offset or the new 23.5mm option. A Showa steering damper option is available without drilling your frame so no need to stress on that. The bar position on 22mm offset is 8mm forward of stem hole allowing a 5mm or 11mm bar position, with Ride Engineering’s one piece bar mount ($104.95), also available in 7/8” version. The bar position on 23.5mm is 9.5mm forward of stem hole allowing a 6.5mm or 12.5mm bar position with Ride Eng.’s one piece bar mount (I preferred mine set at 12.5mm). Note: Stock OEM bar mounts will fit and affect the numbers above by 2mm (3mm or 13mm on 22s & 4.5mm & 14.5mm on 23.5s).   

How Do The Ride Engineering 23.5’s Affect The 2021 Honda CRF450R?: 

I will be quite honest with you… We went through a couple of versions before I felt that it was good enough to sell to the public. The first couple versions didn’t have the compliancy I needed nor did we have a different offset yet that I preferred. The first thing that I noticed with the Ride Engineering 23.5mm offset clamps is that it took away some of the dreaded vibration that the 2021 CRF450R has through the bars. Once I pulled out onto the track and started to accelerate I could feel less harmonics/vibration coming through the Pro Taper bars. What I wanted from the 2021 Honda CRF450R (as well as from the Ride clamps) was a calmer entrance in/through corners, less oversteer, better straight line stability, and increase in front tire tracking. 

I got all of this with the new 23.5 Ride Engineering setting! With my fork set at 2-3mm in the clamps as well as a rear shock sag measurement of 105mm I had a CRF450R that was less harsh feeling through my hands. Now the Honda didn’t quite give that sting through my arms on flat landings and gave the front end an increased flex feeling. Diving into ruts that start to get hooked, didn’t give me the front end knifing (oversteer) that I experienced at times with a 22mm offset. We call this cornering stability in the testing world and the new 23.5mm setting gave me increased cornering stability. Let’s face it, we all love the way the Honda corners, but sometimes it can corner too good and cause some in consistencies in your cornering technique. This 23.5mm offset Ride clamp still gives you that easy to lean front steering feel of the Honda, but improves area 2-3 (mid-exit) in corners.
Straight line comfort has also been improved thanks to losing some rigidity up near the head tube area. When testing the Honda CRF450R I never could have suspected that the OEM clamp was some of the problem when it came to getting a harsh feeling. Hitting square edge and braking bumps with the 23.5 Ride clamps gave me less harshness and improved my fork feel. The fork now seemed to move more in the stroke and had a slightly softer feel to it, which was nice, but also forced me to adjust my fork setting somewhat. With the Ride 23.5 clamps, I had to stiffen up my fork setting one click and slow the fork don one click also. Doing this gave me a better front tire feel when leaning on throttle. I ended up getting better front tire tracking (when stiffening/slowing the fork) when cutting across rough sections of the track. Once I figured that I could go stiffer with my setting it actually brought up the performance/comfort feel of the Honda CRF450R. The stock torque specs of 15 ft. lbs. on the top clamp and 12 ft. lbs. on the bottom clamp is recommended, but if you end up purchasing a raw/silver clamp, you can go to a 14/11 setting. 

So what’s the negatives? Honestly for a vet rider like myself, there aren’t too many… I do know that this isn’t a cure all for the rigidity issues of the CRF450R, but it does help a noticeable amount. When I let another Honda rider/owner try my test bike with the clamp, he immediately thought his OEM clamp was too stiff feeling. The negative for me is that you may have to adjust your suspension (to compensate for the softer feeling clamp) a little after installation, but to me having to do some minor clicker adjustments isn’t too much to ask for added comfort. Plus, y’all are Honda owners. You’re used to tinkering on your bikes right? I know I am when I ride this machine. This Ride Engineering 23.5mm offset split clamp will eliminate some of the tinkering you’re doing at the tracks most days by 40%, so you can ride more and be a test rider less. 

If you do end up getting the red colorway, please try to cover your clamps up with a towel or something when your bike is siting in the pits. The sun will fade the anodizing over time, so bring an EZ-UP or a towel to cover up your investment. These clamps are sexy looking so take care of them! If you’re a C rider worried about if you will lose that cornering ability of your Honda, have no fear, adding these clamps to your machine will not negatively affect how easy the Honda will lay over in corners. In fact, it might help you improve your corners as the CRF450R will setting into the corners better with this 23.5 offset. 

There is a discount code available if you decide that this may be something you're interested in. KT20 will save you 20% off your order over at ride-engineering.com. If you have any questions or concerns  about this test please feel free to email me at kris@keeferinctesting.com.   

Works Connection Pro Launch Device

Works Connection had an older start device that used the old school spring and plunger design, but now have since gone to a magnetic locking system on the Pro Launch device. This has been in circulation for a few years now and is one of the most no fuss systems on the market. It’s so popular that Factory HRC Honda and Star Racing Yamaha is using this exact same system. Because of its lever-style mechanism and chamfered engagement point, the Pro Launch easily goes over the receiver on the way down and catches on the way up. So simple. that even Mrs. Keefer can manage to catch the engagement point relatively easy. It took her some time, but now she understand that you must hold the lever mechanism up once the ring passes by the mechanism. If you want to take out the mechanic/girlfriend/wife out of the equation you can simply do it yourself. I can either hit the front brake and lift up on the mechanism with my boot or stand in front of the bike and reach down with my right hand to lock the device! Boom! Tall riders can simply pull down the front fender (while pushing with their chest on the crossbar pad) when sitting in the saddle.

Works Connection provides an aluminum template with pre-drilled holes, plus three different paper templates in the shape of each bike brand’s fork guard to align the aluminum template at 90mm, 100mm and 110mm. Once you choose the location of the device, tape the metal template and use the supplied drill bit to make the mounting hole. I usually run my Pro Launch devices at the 110 mm setting on 450s and 100mm on 250s. I even use the Pro Launch on metal grate starts as well. The durability of the PL is second to none and I have not  experienced one failure yet on a Pro Launch device that I’ve used for two full race seasons (over 20 races, that’s over 80 motos).

Here is a little Q&A that Works Connection has put together, just in case you have more questions. If you are looking to purchase any Works Connection products you can use the code Keefer20 to save 20% off any WC product. Oh and if you’re on a WP Cone Valve fork WC offers a special ring for those forks, FYI! 

Q. What’s included with each Pro Launch? 

A. Every Pro Launch includes a fork ring, trigger assembly, drill guide, countersink and 

Any supplementary hardware required for specific models is included at no additional cost.

 Q. Why isn’t the Pro Launch made to be universal with one kit fitting all bikes?

A. We feel there are too many variables to produce a reliable ‘One size’ fits all Pro

Launch. 

Does a ‘one size’ pair of shoes sound like a good fit for everyone?

Our design team tailors each fork ring, trigger assembly and instruction templates for the specific year/make/model to ensure an exact fit that yields consistent, dependable, long term performance.

 Q. Why doesn’t the Pro Launch use a split/hinged fork ring?

A. While you might save a few minutes of installation time with a hinged fork ring, 

our design provides a lighter, yet stronger and more reliable fork ring that eliminates the potential failure of a split/hinged ring.

 Q. Who designed and who manufactures the Pro Launch?

A. Our in-house design team is responsible for the patented design and manufacturing, 

along with packaging, is done right here in Nor-Cal, USA!

 Q. What purpose do the fork guard straps serve and do they cost extra?

A. Some brands (e.g. Honda) use a softer fork guard material and the fork 

straps provide the necessary reinforcement. And for those applications the fork 

guard straps are included at no additional charge.

 Q. Can you set the Pro Launch by yourself?

A. Yes. While sitting on the bike, lean over the bars and pull up on the trigger with your 

right hand. Then grasp the front wheel with your left hand and pull the forks down far 

enough so the trigger and fork ring mate.

 Q. How does the trigger operate?

A. You simply lift the trigger while depressing the forks and the trigger and fork ring 

self-latch and mate smoothly. Once you get to the first turn and apply the front brake 

the trigger releases from the fork ring and retracts via strong magnets to its resting 

position. The resting position of the trigger makes it impervious to a rock strike 

accidentally engaging the mechanism.

 Q. Does the Pro Launch add weight to a bike?

A. The Pro Launch weighs in at 50 grams (1.76 ounces) making it the lightest on the 

market.

 Q. How long does it take to install the Pro Launch?

A. Typical installation time is about 30-40 minutes.

 Q. How do I know where to mount the trigger and fork ring?

A. Our step-by-step instructions include a bike specific paper template for the trigger

location and photographs to illustrate the fork ring location. These instructions are

included with every Pro Launch and are available to download from our website.

Q. Can you service the Pro Launch.

A. We assemble the Pro Launch onsite so we have every replacement item available.

 Q. Who uses Pro Launch?

A. Anyone looking for the advantage in getting off the start gate first. That includes 

amateur riders on minis all the way up to Factory Pro Teams.

Q. Where can I get a replacement paper template?

A. On our website navigate to your Make/Model/Year, select the Pro Launch page and

it’s available to download by clicking on ‘Instructions’.

 Q. What if my bike isn’t listed?

A. E-mail info@worksconnection and we’ll get you an answer.

 Q. Will the Pro Launch work with aftermarket fork guards.

A. The Pro Launch is designed for use on the stock, OEM fork guards.

The Makings Of A Great WP Pro Component Settings On The KTM 450 SX-F (With REP Suspension)

Let me preface this article with how much I like to ride the KTM 450 SX-F. But… Yes, of course there is always a “but”, right? I like a lot of things about the KTM 450 SX-F, but the stock suspension isn’t one of them. The AER fork is a slight headache for me as it’s stiff as hell when new, then once broke in, moves more in the stroke, yet still gives a harsh mid stroke feel on braking bumps. Not as much as in year’s past, but it still isn’t a spring feel. Raising the air pressure only makes the harshness worse and decreasing air pressure allows the fork to ride too low in the stroke for my taste. I am a front end steering rider and that means that I really like a spring fork feel. Now, I have tried some other companies spring conversions and although better than the AER fork with front end traction/feel, I just wasn’t sold on the performance it gave me on rough tracks. After doing some of these tests, I then resorted to a WP Cone Valve fork. Now I am not going to sit here and tell you that slapping on a set of WP Pro Components is the answer to your front end problems, as I did have to go through several setting changes in order to get a feel that I personally liked. I thought why not walk you through some of the process to create settings as well as tell you about the latest one I have on our 2021 KTM 450 SX-F test machine. 

You know who helped me get to this blend of KTM comfort and performance promise land that I am in? Mark Johnson at REP Suspension. I am a serious pain in the ass when it comes to KTM suspension, probably because I love that damn Yamaha KYB/SSS fork so much (yes, I know there are KYB conversions and we are going to test one soon, don’t yell at me). Although Mark made my WP Pro Components better than my stock stuff the first time he did it, I felt like I wanted more comfort on rough tracks. I complained to Mark that my rear end always felt too low under acceleration and the front end still had a firm feel on slap down hits through my handlebars. I complained. He listened. That is what great suspension tuners do. They listen to the customer. There are several companies like this out there and REP is one of those companies. Mark emailed me one night about a setting he came up with, that he thought I might rather enjoy. I honestly thought what I had was decent, but as one old test rider once told me, “you’re only as good as what you try right” and I am in the business to try and relay that back to you all right? So I immediately got excited about another suspension test that could really be “THE ONE”! 

I met Mark at GH one Thursday and we literally stayed there all day. This is nothing new, but as a guy who has been doing this 20 or so years, I still love it! I wanted to make sure that I left GH near dark and when the sun decided to set behind the hills of Glen Helen, I wanted to make sure that I had comfort along with performance, before I gathered my things and left. This is the only way I can sit here and type to you all and say if it’s better or not. When you move from a stock WP AER fork to a WP Pro Component set up you will immediately feel a heavier turn in, yet will receive more front end traction. It’s a give and take and I will gladly take a heavier steer in (area 1 of the corner) for added traction. I don’t have near as much of a problem with the rear of the bike, but the stock shock, once hot, fades away into oblivion and gives no real damping character at the end of a longer/rough Moto. I wanted consistency, comfort and traction. Is that so much to ask from a bike? The Kawasaki gives it to me. The Yamaha gives it to me. I want the KTM to give to me as well with WP components on it! 

As usual I make sure that each test is a blind test. I make damn sure I know nothing about what Mark and the REP crew do to each setting and that I am going strictly off of feel when riding. I make sure I hit the same lines on the track through out the day for consistency and that ensures proper feedback to the REP crew (as well as you the reader). When all was said and done, what REP gave me was the best setting I have ever felt from any KTM set of suspension I have tried. Oh and I have tried a lot. Is it the best suspension that I have ever met period? No, but it was the best KTM stuff I have tried, hands down. I was starting to consider that the WP Pro Components were just built for performance and not comfort, but Mark and the guys proved to me otherwise.

 The WP fork with the REP setting not only had hold up, but had comfort as well. Most of the time when you go to an A-Kit style fork, you will lose comfort and gain performance, but both of those categories went up equally for me. RARE! This has only happened twice in my time of testing! Using a 4.8 N/mm spring rate along with the parts listed below gave me great lean angle traction (off or on throttle). The downside to my previous CV fork setting was that if I loaded the front tire on lean (under throttle) the fork deflected and felt harsh. The new updated setting felt more supple initially and progressively had more damping feel as the fork went down. There was no unexpected stiff shelfs in the travel as the fork moved and in return, that gives the rider better feel to the front wheel/tire. AKA more tire contact patch! Boom! Gone is the harsh slap down feel to my hands and that increased my ability to be more confident in how hard I can push into/through jumps because I know that if I wanted to overjump a section (on purpose or maybe by mistake) I could do it without an issue. 

The WP Pro Component shock has always been a struggle for me to set up. I always felt like my rear end was too low and when I managed to get the rear end up, it was god awful coming out of corners (harsh and wasn’t fun on my back). Although I gained consistent damping feel over a longer Moto with the Pro Component shock the comfort was difficult to find at times. To help this I ran REP’s knuckle without the longer rods, along with a sag setting of 98mm. I wanted to change the curve of the linkage ratio to help acceleration comfort, but try to keep that rear end up under throttle. This did get me slightly more comfort, but felt like it pushed on the front end too much once transitioning off the throttle. Mark suggested that I try a 1mm longer shock shaft and that really changed the character of this bike. Once I had the chance to ride with that, it altered my outlook on how the KTM’s ride attitude could handle rougher style tracks. The rear end stayed up higher in the stroke and for my 5’11 front end steering frame, this was a game changer. The KTM became more balanced on throttle and allowed me to accelerate harder/sooner out of choppy corners. I now could get my sag numbers back to normal range (103-105mm), which left me with a balanced feeling coming into corners (off throttle). Having this 1mm longer shock shaft also allowed me to run REP’s longer pull rods, which increased rear wheel traction and took some bite/harshness out of any initial braking bump hit. 

Now on to the question that I will get asked after this is published… Keefer, I just spent 11K on my KTM and now you are saying to purchase 5K on suspension  as well as put another 800.00 into those Pro Components? Holy shit! Yeah, I know, right? However, it’s crazy how many people actually do this. So to cater to those people as well as to others, I will also be doing a stock re-valve story just like this one coming in the next few weeks. So hold tight! Not everyone has the money for Pro Components and I am not blind to that fact. I really wanted to get this article up because I had my doubts about these WP Pro Components at times and get tons of emails about them. Mark and the REP crew worked their asses off to make me happy and it took me a while to get there, but hopefully with all of my testing that I have done, as well as REP’s work, you all will benefit from a one and done setting! 

Below are the parts that REP incorporated into my WP Pro Components and what each part’s purpose really is: 

  Fork:

1. Cone Spring Perch System $349.99

Gives more bottoming resistance/progression allowing for a softer more plush setting to be utilized for better top of the stroke feel without losing bottoming. (The concept comes from KYB which I have played with a lot).

2. Low Speed Valves $120.00

Allows us to valve the flow of the needle and is fully tunable to each rider. Riders typically comment less front dip/more controlled front under braking.

3. 13 Degree cones $160.00

WP only makes 3 degree options 15, 11 and 8. Mark makes 13 as well for MX/Off-Road and 8 for SX. This helps bridge the gap between the degrees to get a specific damping the rider is looking for.

4. Low Friction O-Ring Kit $11.99

Lower cartridge friction compared to the standard o-rings that come in the fork.

Shock:

1. Trax LSV $250

Similar to the fork LSV, it gives REP another shim stack to play with, that normally is not in the shock. The shim stack controls the needle flow and is fully tunable. (This is the part that I felt gave firmness without taking away comfort). It also majorly decreases hysteresis, or pressure differentials, in the shock, which results in a more consistent feel and performance in the shock. 

2. Shock Spring Thrust Bearing $62.99

Springs naturally want to turn as they are compressed which causes binding. The bearing is fitted on top of the spring to allow it to turn and can be put on without the damper being disassembled.

3. RCU Spacer $21.99

REP has spacers made that go on both sides of the shim stack that are surfaced ground to be more flat than production. The spacer makes for a more consistent and predictable build as far as dyno and rider feel is concerned.

4. 1mm Longer Shock Setup $112.99

Helps balance of the bike for most riders, but also gains comfort as it puts the linkage into a softer part of the stroke.

Chassis:

1. REP MW1 Knuckle $299.99

Price jumped from up from the last write up I did because they now build them with OEM Bearings and seals.

2. 149mm Pull Rod $219.00

It’s longer compared to the standard 148.2mm for the flatter leverage curve Mark was looking for, also built with OEM bearings and seals.

Pro Circuit Linkage (2021 Kawasaki KX250)

The new Pro Circuit linkage system for the 2021 KX250 and 2019-2021 KX450 gives the KX’s handling performance an entirely different feel. I did this review on a 2021 KX250 because my son Aden was only 125 pounds and needed something plusher for his style of riding. Although I liked the stock KYB suspension, I felt that it was a little empty (soft feeling) on the end stroke. The OEM linkage system for the newer KX models tends to be a little harsh at the beginning of the stroke and gets softer as the rear wheel goes deeper into the stroke. With Aden being lighter, he had problems with the rear end being harsh on small bump absorption and I had problems with the rear end being too soft at the end stroke (or high speed compression situations). With the new Pro Circuit linkage system, it gives the linkage ratio curve what we both need. The Pro Circuit KX250/KX450 linkage system gives the shock a plusher feel at the beginning of its stroke and then stiffens up as the rear wheel goes deeper into its travel. This adjustment could mean that it lessens the need for stiffer high-speed valving, which can cause the rear to feel harsh and deflective. When talking to Pro Circuit, a considerable amount of research and testing for this new linkage system has resulted in a more true-to-weight spring rate, in order to reach the ultimate sweet spot in handling for your new KX250/KX450. 

I wanted to test this linkage for Aden and I on the 2021 KX250 with stock valving as well as a re-valved set of suspension to see what this linkage system can give the rider in feel. With the stock setting and the PC linkage I immediately felt it was too soft for my liking out of corners (the rear end felt too low in the stroke at 103mm of sag), but I found out that Pro Circuit recommends a spring rate increase of 0.2 kg/mm so I wen from the stock 54 N/mm spring to a 56 N/mm with much better results. Now the rear end stayed up higher in the stroke on acceleration and felt plusher on small bump absorption. The stiffer spring and the linkage combined also gave me the end stroke feel that I was looking for. I am the type of rider that DOES NOT mind bottoming out a couple times a lap around the track, but it just can’t feel like I am hitting a ton of bricks when doing so. The PC linkage coupled with the spring rate change still allowed me to use all of the suspension but didn’t give me that harsh bottomed out feel. 

With Aden on the KX250 with the PC linkage, it was even more noticeable change for him because he could leave the stock spring on and the rear of the bike immediately got plusher feeling on small chop. He also mentioned that he could get on the gas sooner because he felt like the PC linkage gave him more rear wheel traction. Normally, being that Aden is only 125 pounds we usually have to go to a softer shock spring, but with the PC linkage requiring a stiffer spring rate, this ultimately balanced the bike out for a 125 pound B level type of rider.  

When tested with a fully re-valved set of Pro Circuit suspension the linkage only gave the rider more of a balanced feel with the sag at 103mm. Riding more aggressive was made slightly easier with the PC linkage as I could get on the gas sooner out of corners (under heavy choppy conditions) because the rear end seemed to stay straighter as well as had more rear wheel traction. For $445.00 this mod is a little expensive for my taste, but it does actually help with comfort and performance on the 2021 KX250. If you’re a lighter rider, this linkage could save you from a spring change and if you’re an aggressive rider, that is slightly heavier, it can help you from getting too low in the stroke under heavy loads without a re-valve. 

If there was one sentence that described this linkage it would be: “Ultimately, this new PC linkage creates a plusher feel while increasing rear wheel traction”. 

If you have any questions about this pinkeye please feel free to email me at kris@keeferinctesting.com 

Ride Engineering Split Triple Clamps (KTM/Husqvarna)

The stock KTM/Husqvarna clamps are too stiff for me! What about you? Well, if you’re here reading this, chances are they might be too rigid for you as well!  It’s odd because most other manufacturers OEM clamps are on the soft side, but the Austrians had something more rigid in mind when making these stock clamps. So in search of other options besides an X-Trig ROCS or a KTM Factory Edition clamp, I went out and tried Ride Engineering’s new split clamp. When Ride Engineering set out to build the KTM clamps, they’ve been designed with four goals in mind: 1) Optimize body position: (Bar position 3mm back from stock). Ride Engineering also offers optional offset for their bar mounts providing 4 bar positions as measured from the stem hole: 6mm forward, 9mm forward, 15mm forward & 18mm forward (using stock bar mounts your positions are either 7mm or 17mm forward); 2) Flex: this new split design made from 2024 aluminum is said to provide better comfort; 3) Improve the handling with a new gull wing design; 4) Place the upper pinch bolts in the front and allows for different aftermarket handguard mounts. Each set comes with a frame mounted hour meter relocation bracket so that you can retain your OEM hour meter. So how did they perform on the track? We break it down for you here. 

The stock KTM triple clamps are stiff natured and can make your orange bike feel rigid/harsh. My goal for this test was to find less front end vibration through the bars, more front end comfort, as well as try to get a more precise front end feel through corners, without getting added rigidity on hard pack/rough straights. Basically get a more compliant KTM 450 SX-F, but that is sometimes tough to do right? The good news is that this is exactly what I found with the Ride Engineering Split Clamps. The Ride Engineering clamp on the KTM 450 SX-F provided enough flex on small bumps, which gave me less of a stiff feel through the bars, yet was also stiff enough to give me a positive front wheel lean angle through flat corners. The Ride Engineering clamp is most noticeable when diving deep into a rut where there is a huge load put on the front end, forced by the rider. The chassis positivity through this area is much better than the stock clamps. The stock clamps have a tendency to give the rider a rigid feel when weighting the front end (although slightly more positive feeling), deflection on de-cel bumps and vibration that is not very friendly. The Ride Engineering clamp gives the front end more tire contact patch feel because it allows the front end to absorb more of what the track is offering the rider. Going firmer on the triple clamp can give a rider more positivity at times, when leaning into a corner, but in this case, I felt like I could get into a corner much easier with the Ride clamps. Straight line stability is improved because of the bump absorption character of the Ride clamp and vibration is also down which gives the bike a tighter, less clapped out feel. Also do yourself a favor and get rid of those stock Neken handlebars. Buy some Pro Taper EVO bars and thank me later!

Compared to a factory KTM clamp (that comes on the Factory Edition) the Ride Engineering clamp does have a little more flex to it than the KTM FE clamp. The two share the same split design, but offer different flex characters on the track. The KTM FE clamp does have a slightly firmer feel, which does help area 2 of corners when pushing your front tire/front end hard while banking off of ruts. The KTM FE clamp does give a little more positivity in that area, but in all other areas of the track the Ride Engineering split clamp just has more comfort.  I tried the Ride Engineering Split Clamps with the stock mounts and the rider triangle of the bar mount position on the clamp wasn’t an issue for my 6’0 frame. I also have tried the Ride Engineering bar mounts, so if you’re taller and looking for more room, you might want to look into a set of the two piece bar mounts from Ride as well.

A lot of back to back testing went down against the KTM Factory Edition clamps in order to figure out how much flex was too much or too little.

Ride Engineering offers two offsets (22mm and 20.5mm), comes in four colors (black, orange, silver, LE blue) and redesigned with a 90mm span to accept the stock bar mounts and mounting hardware. The $689.90 price tag is also not as steep as some of the other clamps in its class and to me Ride Engineering is one of the few aftermarket chassis part companies that actually test their own products. To have an owner that rides his own parts, then makes an educated decision on if it’s better than stock, is pretty damn cool. You can check the Ride Engineering Split Clamps out at ride-engineering.com. 

If you have any questions about these clamps, or any others for that matter, or maybe want a discount code, hit me up at kris@keeferinctesting.com. 

Coppersmith Aero/Hybrid Fork

Coppersmith Racing Suspension has been around as long as I can remember and they have been mostly known for their Ohlins suspension set-ups. I stumbled across the Coppersmith Aero/Hybrid suspension kit for the WP AER air fork from the guys over at Racer X. If you’re on the fence about air vs. spring, the Coppersmith Aero/Hybrid fork kit gives you the best of both. It combines the old school feel of a spring fork with some of the tuneability of the WP AER fork. The Coppersmith Aero/Hybrid fork kit puts a modified Ohlins TTX22 spring cartridge in one WP fork leg for damping, with an OEM stock WP AER fork leg for adjustability. In essence, it is 50% Ohlins TTX22 (damping) and 50% WP AER (air spring). So how did it work on our Husqvarna FC450 test machine? Let me break it down for you here…

I can already forecast the emails coming in asking how it compares to a KYB conversion and a WP Cone Valve fork, so let me get this out of the way. I will give you the simple answer of the Coppersmith doesn’t have quite the comfort of a KYB conversion on braking bumps, but does have more comfort than a Cone Valve fork on small bump absorption. The Coppersmith hybrid fork gives the rider superior bottoming resistance (similar to the AER fork feel) with the cushion of a spring fork on chatter as well as small to medium sized braking bumps. For the conditions we have out here on the west coast, it really is very surprising how much different it feels compared to the stock WP AER fork. 

Compared to the stock AER fork the Coppersmith Aero/Hybrid fork will give the rider more front end feel (traction) on lean angle and give you a more consistent fork action throughout the day. I was worried that going to one Ohlins TTX damping fork leg would almost give me that half ass sort of feel on the track, but there was only a small dose of an AER feel while riding. The only time I could notice that I still had anything resembling an air fork is when I slammed into a jump face or purposely overshot a jump to flat. The Coppersmith hybrid fork gave me that AER bottoming resistance, but without that harsh end stroke spring fork bottoming out type of feel.

I was trying to find a negative feel on the track (compared to the stock AER set up) in order to elaborate more for you guys, but to me, going to the Coppersmith hybrid fork seems all positive, when moving on from the AER set up. The stock WP AER fork isn’t the worst fork known to man, that title goes to the Showa SFF Air fork, but I just can’t stomach the inconsistency that it comes with during the course of a long moto day. I want the same feel throughout the day and I just can’t seem to get that with a full air fork set up. Maybe the only real negative that I experienced is that you still have to adjust the air pressure on the WP AER side of the hybrid. But Keefer, aren’t you still working with an air spring? 

Yes, we are, but the left side AER fork will now be ran at a very low pressure (6 bar) to accommodate the Ohlins TTX 22 cartridge. Running a lower air pressure eliminates almost all of the inconsistency of a higher pressure fork setting. Yes, the air will still fluctuate during a longer moto, but to me the feeling I get on the bike during the course of the day remains much more consistent than when running higher air pressures. A lower .45 spring rate is used in the Ohlins cartridge side and running the clickers at 13 clicks of compression and 14 clicks of rebound seemed to be the best setting between a 170 and 200 pound rider.

What about the weight bias between the right/left fork legs while riding? 

Yes, I could feel a slight weight difference on initial lean on right hand corners with the hybrid system, but it was minimal and I am a very hypersensitive test rider. When letting my other test rider try the Coppersmith hybrid fork he mentioned nothing of weight bias feel (left to right) and could NOT tell a difference. 

Although we didn’t install the Ohlins TTX22 cartridge in the fork, Coppersmith offers the installation to the customer. Just ship them your right fork leg and let Coppersmith handle it for you. Coppersmith also offers DLC and titanium Carbon/nitride coating as an upgrade if you’re feeling factory. Another benefit to installing the Coppersmith Aero/hybrid kit in only one fork leg is that it saves weight over a traditional coil spring fork plus cuts down on shipping cost and retails for $995 (installed). For more information call Coppersmith at (234) 229-9059.

REP Knuckle For 2015.5-Up KTM Shock

As the hours keep ticking away on the 2020.5 KTM 450 SX-F Factory Edition test machine, I have been going through test parts like crazy. I have been testing the REP (Research Engineering Performance) re-valved WP XACT Pro Components and have good things to say about Mark’s work, but I wanted to get a little more comfort for the shock, so he offered up his knuckle and pull rods to me. I explained to him that I felt the KTM was low in the rear, so I would rather not use the pull rods, but I was willing to use the knuckle in corporation with the WP XACT Pro Component shock.

So what is the purpose of the REP knuckle? The reason for designing this linkage system was to help or eliminate a common issue Mark has witnessed with the KTM/Husqvarna. A rider comment that he has repeatedly heard is a lock out sensation in the shock resulting in harshness and unwanted weight transfer. Immediately REP started testing shock settings after shock setting, which helped, but did not fix the issue entirely. This is when REP’s investigation began into the leverage ratios to decipher if this was truly a shock character issue or if the chassis needed some changes. 

The linkage put into the Austrian production has a very "stiff" ratio when compared to other brands, which is why the bikes come with such a soft rear spring. REP feels this is the right direction for the beginning to mid stroke, but the progression at the end of the stroke was slightly too aggressive causing unwanted weight transfer and harshness from the rear of the bike

The REP linkage system makes a more linear progression for models 2015.5 to current. Many of the other companies producing linkages for these bikes result in a softer ratio all the way through the stroke, which is why they also require a stiffer rear spring. The REP system does not stray far from the production ratio for the majority of the shock stroke, but simply tapers off from mid to end. This change does not require a spring change because the ratio from full extension to rider sag point is very similar, but once active on the track the rider will see the digression in the ratio to be quite apparent.

The knuckle can be used with the standard pull rod (like what I did) or the longer REP version. If only the knuckle is used the rear seat height will be raised 1.9mm, but if the entire REP linkage package is used the rear will be lowered 2.1mm when compared to stock. Keep in mind if the entire package is used, it not only lowers the rear, but also exaggerates the flatter ratio that the knuckle is producing. REP recommends the knuckle to all his riders, but Mark decides if the customer needs the pull rod based on the rider's preference and comments.

A couple positives to the knuckle that I noticed right away was comfort on acceleration through deep/choppy ruts and the KTM felt less active on de-cel bumps coming down hills. Without the REP knuckle the KTM kicked me in the butt more than other Japanese bikes do when braking hard on de-cel bumps, but with the REP knuckle the rear of the KTM stayed planted better and gave me a calmer feeling when pushing deeper into rough corners. I managed to get a bone stock 2020 KTM 450 SX-F, (without XACT Pro Components) installed the REP knuckle on the WP shock and it gave me the same feelings in those two areas of the track. I appreciate that I didn’t have to drop a spring rate and basically could just bolt this on and feel an improvement. For $249.95 for the knuckle (with bearings installed), I really like the way the KTM can be pushed harder later in the day when the track gets hammered. I used to shy away from the KTM in the afternoon hours, because it would beat me up a little. Now by adding this REP knuckle to our KTM Factory Edition, it has made this a more comfortable machine to ride when everyone else is packing up to go home. 

Note… Not all aftermarket knuckle/linkage systems work on every brand of motorcycle. Some manufacturer R&D teams get their linkage ratios correct for the masses upon production, but it’s refreshing to see Mark at REP sell a suspension piece for the KTM that actually is noticeably better when riding it back to back with the stock piece. 

FAQ: 

Kris, how do I know if I need a knuckle and not just a re-valve on my shock?  

If you are experiencing a firm feeling coming out of corners and seem to lose traction, this knuckle can help. If you are coming into braking bumps and notice that the KTM has a nice plush feel on the first bump, but then gives you a rear end kick when unloading upon the second touch, this knuckle can help that. These are the two areas that most weekend warrior riders would feel the REP knuckle is better. 

Kris, how do I know if I want the REP pull rods to go along with the knuckle? 

If you want your KTM to feel a little lower in the rear and want more rear steering, then you should look into the REP pull rods as well. I am a big front end steering rider so having the rear end a little higher for me fits my riding style. 

Attached is a graph from REP. The red line is the REP vs the black line Production.

Kreft Suspension Review (Husqvarna TE300i)

Written By: Michael Allen

Let’s be honest, as riders we have all probably uttered these words to a suspension tuner, “I want it plush, but stiff”. I would imagine that every suspension guy has heard that phrase and grits his teeth every time he hears it. That is where Kreft comes in with their revolutionary design of being able to “revalve” the fork with just the turn of a dial instead of taking the fork apart and actually putting different shims in the fork itself. Admittedly when it comes to the internals of how a fork works I am no specialist, but when Matt from Kreft broke it down and explained it to me in dumb dirt bike rider terms, it was very interesting and made a lot of sense. 

I have worked with many suspension companies over the years and for the most part they work the same in terms of pick up and drop off. This is the first thing that stood out to me when I started working with Kreft: The first step of the process is an initial phone consultation where you actually build somewhat of a relationship with the representative. You go over the basics, like what bike you’re riding and your measurements, but you also get into what you want to feel out on the trail. Along with that you get a crash course on what makes Kreft different and how their system works. From there they send you an empty box with prefect (I really mean perfect) cutouts for your specific fork and shock. They are so detail oriented they even send you bleeder screws, so just in case you have button bleeders they can be replaced so that your forks don’t leak and ruin the box in transit. The professionalism is second to none while still being personable as well as very helpful and explanatory.

Aside from the obvious spring rate change and re-valve, the fork gets Kreft’s “Re-valve Control”. The way it was explained to me was that on a standard fork the shim stack nut is tightened down on the top of the shims and in that case, the valving is whatever the tuner’s spec is. The valving itself cannot be changed without fully dissembling the fork and changing the actual shims. The only adjustability on a standard fork is compression and rebound clickers. What Kreft does is use a spring that can have more or less pressure put on it with the adjustment of the re-valve Control knob on top of the left fork. What that spring pressure does is put more or less pressure on the shim stack itself. This gives the rider the ability to make “valving changes” on the fly to adapt to a wide range of terrain and disciplines of off-road riding. With the Kreft fork you now have the standard compression and rebound clickers as well as the re-valve control. In doing all these changes Kreft has also changed the damping forces in the left and right fork tubes. The XPlor fork has unbalanced forces in stock form, making the left tube do the majority of the work. What this does is give the left fork more of a chance of having oil cavitation, resulting in poor damping performance. The final thing that was done to the forks was the Microfinish which is said to work better than DLC coating (and is far cheaper) to reduce friction creating less drag and seal stiction than the stock finish.

To compliment the fork changes, Kreft internally changes the shock components to get the greatest potential and best balance of the low and high speed tuning circuits. If the circuits aren’t balanced and one is doing far more than the other there is a greater chance for cavitation which results in poor performance. Once the circuits are balanced and cavitation is no longer occurring, the changes that are made to the clickers have a much larger adjustment range and are far more effective. Along with the spring change on the shock, Kreft also installed the X-Trig preload adjuster which I had never used, but holy shit that thing is awesome!

Now that I have explained all the technical info (to the best of my dumb dirt bike test rider ability) let’s get down to how it all works out in the real world. As I said in my initial test of the TE 300i, any type of riding other than very tech slow trails meant that the TE was going to feel out of place. The fork was extremely divvy when on the brakes or even just when transitioning off throttle. This unbalanced pitching feeling caused the bike to be unpredictable when cornering. In addition to that, anything that resembled a g-out made the bike bottom and rebound too quickly, which doesn’t necessarily give the rider very much confidence, especially in a racing situation. The one race that I did in stock form made it clear that I was having to check up for obstacles that normally wouldn’t phase me, so I knew something had to be done. 

After getting the stuff back from Kreft I bolted it on and read through their extensive welcome packet, which was super informative. I set my sag (which they had very close already) and headed out to my favorite trails, which have a plethora of different types of terrain. The first thing I noticed was that the unbalanced feel was no longer an issue. Now when I enter coroners the bike stays further up in the stroke and is much more predictable. My biggest concern was that after telling Kreft that I mostly ride faster paced desert terrain, I was worried that they would make it too stiff and I would no longer have the compliance in the tight technical terrain. Like I said in the beginning of this story, I basically told them that I want it firm, but soft and to my surprise, Kreft gave me my cake and let me eat it too. After becoming more confident and being able to pick up the pace, I found myself going into g-outs as well as slamming into bigger whoops with more speed. Initially the fork had a slight quick feel that would cause the front tire to lose traction, but after slowing down the rebound three clicks, the bike stayed planted much better following hard landings.

The only other issue I had with the front end was that I felt I still needed more bottoming resistance. I tried going in on the re-valve control, but that wasn’t necessarily the feeling I was looking for. While going in on the re-valve control helped my issue, it took away a little of the initial plushness that I liked. After talking with Kreft, they recommended I simply get a syringe and add 15ml of oil to both forks. After doing this I was able to keep the initial settings on the re-valve control while still getting the bottom resistance I was looking for. When it came to the shock, Kreft was really close on the setting I loved out of the box. I had a slight kick in the rear on de-cel bumps, but it was only off-throttle. To combat this Kreft recommended that I open up the high speed compression all the out. After doing this the kick was eliminated, but I felt the bike was bottoming too frequently, so I followed their recommendation and worked the high speed adjuster in by ¼ turn at a time until I found the balance that I desired. One misconception that I think a lot riders have (I used to as well) is that if your bike is bottoming it’s too soft. It’s perfectly ok for your bike to bottom if the bump or landing warrants it. Bottoming out from time to time means you are using all of your suspension travel. This is what you want! Use all the travel, but still have a comfort/performance blend for your type of riding.

Kreft prides themselves on having great customer service, provide a high end product and also a product that has a very wide range of adjustability. When they told me that I could ride technical single track with the same bike that I rode at the moto track, I was skeptical. My last test before writing this article was doing just that, I went to the moto track. Before riding I looked at their recommended setting for moto, adjusted it and started moto’ing. Now was it just as good as a moto setting would be if the suspension was built for moto? Not entirely, but the adjustments for moto made the bike comfortable enough on the track that I was jumping every obstacle without blowing through the travel as well as cornering with confidence. I didn’t feel like the suspension was holding me back by any means and I wasn’t out of my element on this bike. The mere fact that one bike can be capable of such different disciplines with small adjustments is super impressive. I think that Kreft is really on to something and will only be getting more recognition as time goes on.

The price breakdown is as follows: Xplor Re-valve Control and Re-valved shock is $1,200 (including seals and fluid), the addition of springs (if needed), Microfinish and X-Trig spring adjuster brings the total to $1,800. Like I said before, Kreft prides themselves on being very high end and in my opinion you get what you pay for. Every part of dealing with Kreft was top notch, from their box, customer service, quality of parts, and performance of the suspension was very impressive. If you are in the market to fix your 4CS, AER, or Xplor suspension, I would highly recommend giving Kreft a call. If you have any questions about the performance of the Kreft setup on the TE 300i feel free to reach out to me at Michael@keeferinctesting.com. That being said, if you have any technical questions about the parts itself reach out to them because I’m just a test dummy and won’t be able to answer your questions. Kreft’s contact is 541-797-0700 or email them at Info@Kreftmoto.com. 

Ride Engineering Full Performance Linkage (Husqvarna FC450)

Getting that comfortable feel as well as increased track toughness can be somewhat hard to find on the Husqvarna FC450. At least for me anyway. I can go to tracks that are soft and tighter and be completely happy with the Husqvarna and then go to a fast/choppy track that has more flowing corners and be confused on why this bike feels so different. I know a couple companies have been making different linkage ratios for the Husqvarna and KTM’s, but I wanted to try Ride Engineering’s performance linkage system on the FC450 to see if it actually improves upon the ride comfort on choppy tracks. 

 You might be saying to yourself, well what about the KTM Keefer? I do similar negative feelings on the KTM that I do on the white bike, but the Husqvarna does seem like it’s slightly more forgiving at times on rougher tracks. As you may already know this link also can work on the KTM, so if you’re on an orange bike, this test could also apply to you. I will be doing a full review on a couple different linkage systems (Ride Engineering/REP) on the KTM in the coming weeks, just to see if I can feel a difference between each. 

So what exactly am I looking for here? Why is there a need for a different linkage ratio on this machine? Why didn't the R&D team at KTM/Husqvarna choose the ratio that Ride Engineering came up with in the first place? I will give you some insider knowledge on the R&D process a little before we dive into this test. Sometimes when OEM R&D teams test suspension, often there is a few linkages that the test riders have to weed through to see which one works best for a wide range of riders on said bike. Setting up a bike for the masses is not easy to do and most of the time the OEM’s choose a setting that is more of a “comfort setting” than a performance setting to offset the stiffness of the chassis. Comfort is needed on any new production motocross bike and getting a suspension spec that coincides with the correct linkage ratio as well as frame stiffness can be tricky. Not every bike benefits from an aftermarket linkage ratio, so don’t think you need a linkage on every bike on the dealer floor. If you’re happy with the feeling that you get when you ride your machine then try not to overthink it. JUST GO RIDE! If you feel what we are describing in this test then possibly a linkage could benefit you. If you DO NOT feel the things we are explaining in this test, you can simply disregard it and move on to something else you want to add to your FC450.   

What I Want Out Of The Rear Of The Husqvarna 2020 FC450?

The rear of the Husqvarna FC450 feels somewhat rigid on acceleration chop and I can feel like my rear end is dancing around when hard on the throttle out of rough corners. I spent some days searching for some added traction/comfort by changing sag settings, spring rates and clickers, but came up empty handed. I also tried a WP Pro Component shock and that just exacerbated my problem a little more on acceleration, creating a firmer feel out of corners. Even though I had more hold up and less fade with the Pro Component shock, I wasn't happy with my acceleration feel. 

What Did I Get Out Of The Ride Engineering Performance Linkage? 

Ride Engineering recommends that you go up a spring rate with their linkage, but I wanted to try it with the stock 45 N/m spring rate as well as a 48 N/m. The Ride Engineering pull rods are 1.3mm longer than the stock rods and the knuckle is more progressive, so it ramps up different than the stock knuckle. Once installed and the sag was set to 104mm, I immediately felt slightly more comfort out of the rear of the bike on acceleration, but also noticed it being a little low for my liking in that area. On steeper jump faces or flat landings I felt like the shock bottomed and felt empty on high speed compression. After increasing the high speed compression, it helped a little on jump faces as well as helped the empty feel on slap down landings, but it hurt acceleration traction. I installed the heavier 48 N/m spring on, reset my sag, jumped back out on the track and was quickly greeted with a firmer feel, but the firm feel didn't translate into a harsher rear end like the stock linkage/spring had. 

The rear of the Husqvarna stayed up in the stroke more out of corners, but also had a freer feeling to it, which increased my rear end traction. Another positive to the heavier rear spring/Ride Engineering linkage combo was that the control of the Husqvarna was better when hitting de-cel bumps at speed. At times with the stock shock/link, the Husqvarna would ride too low and have a sudden kick to the rear end that left me with a sensation of less control leading into corners. With the heavier rear spring and Ride link the initial braking bump feel was firmer, yet the FC450 moved less when getting to the fifth, sixth, and seventh braking bump into corners. I could hold on the throttle a little longer because I had more control as well as better action of the rear end. If there was a negative to the heavier spring/Ride Engineering link, I would have to say that it can make the Husqvarna a slightly slower cornering bike on initial lean, but to me I didn't mind the slight slower turn in feel. I know some of you may not like that, but if you find that this is bothering you then simply run your sag at 103mm and this can help initial turn in. 

Like I mentioned above, I tried the WP Pro Component shock with the Ride Link set up and it gave me a similar feeling that the stock shock/Ride link set up did, but with even more hold up when ridden aggressively (of course that has something to do with the valving as well). I liked that with the Ride Engineering knuckle/rod set up of the FC450 felt less firm on acceleration and yet still had more control on de-cel bumps. 

This Ride Engineering Performance Link is $449.90 and is available over at ride-engineering.com and fits current Husqvarna/KTM models. 

If you’re a KTM owner and looking for a little comparison, stay tuned for a REP/Ride Engineering Performance Link comparison as both companies make a different knuckle ratio for the white and orange machines. Will I be able to feel the difference? Find out soon! 

RIDE ENGINEERING 2018-2020 Suzuki RM-Z 450 Performance Link

By Dallas Dunn:

I’ve been helping out Keefer with photography content for some time now, but I’ve been wanting to get more into the testing side of things so Kris has gave me the opportunity to ride the 2020 Suzuki RM-Z450 test bike for the year, so the first mod for this bike was going to be the Ride Engineering 1mm longer lowering link. I wanted to give you a normal everyday blue collar perspective. I am by no means a professional test rider, in fact I am a heavy equipment operator that likes to ride his dirt bike. So if you can relate to that and have a RM-Z450, maybe you can relate to this test as well.

Simply installing the Ride Engineering link helped balance the RM-Z out on de-cel. If you’re running the stock suspension (valving/springs) this simple mod will help the RM-Z from wanting to transfer its weight towards the front end. The RM-Z450’s BFRC shock is known for unloading on de-cel (or riding high off throttle) and that can cause oversteer (knifing) on entrances of corners. Once you install the longer Ride Engineering link arms on the Suzuki it will settle down on de-cel and not pitch towards the front end as much. I noticed right away the bike felt more predictable and compliant coming into choppy braking bumps while keeping the rear end planted with less diving on de-cel. It gave me more sense of predictability and control when entering corners compared to the stock setup. Having comfort and predictability are things I look for when trying to improve my speed and technique. Running the sag at 107mm (fork height 4-5mm) with the link arm will alleviate some of your balance issues on the #RMaRMy. 

This Ride Engineering link Retails for $219.99 at www.ride-engineering.com.

You can use the code Keefer-20 to save some dough as well.

Pro Circuit Link Arm (2020 Yamaha YZ450F)

I have tried links in the past on previous generation YZ450F’s with less than stellar results, but since Yamaha changed the frame on the 2020 machine, I thought I would revisit a link to see if it helps improves the Yamaha’s feel around the track. 

Pro Circuit's linkage arms are CNC-machined from billet aluminum and are designed to stiffen up the initial linkage curve in order to try and improve the geometry of the YZ450F’s chassis, in order to try and make the bike more stable in certain areas of the track. The linkage arms includes all of the required bearings and seals and is ready to bolt up. I wanted to see how it worked with the stock YZ450F suspension valving, so since Pro Circuit is backordered on them for a while, I purchased the Pro Circuit linkage arm at rockymountainatvmc.com for $189.95 . Once I received the PC link, I went to a few tracks to try the it and the stock link, back to back , to see if the Pro Circuit link is a benefit to the average rider. 

One thing that I want from the stock 2020 Yamaha YZ450F is less movement from the rear end under acceleration. With the stock link, the rear end can squat  too much at times (under throttle) and give me the feeling of less connection to the rear wheel under load. I do think the new 2020 frame and suspension valving has helped de-cel pitching, but once the fork is broke in, it can dive a little too much under hard braking. 

After I installed the PC link I re-checked my sag numbers to make sure they were in the spec I desired. I ran 105mm of sag with the stock link and am currently at 105mm of sag with the PC link. With the PC 143.5mm link installed (142.0mm is stock) the Yamaha has a noticeably different feel to it on the track. I immediately noticed that my rear end felt firmer under acceleration, but that feeling wasn't such a positive change. I went back to the van and turned my high speed compression (on the shock) out a quarter turn to help soften up the feeling on acceleration chop. Once I adjusted the high speed compression, I could start to feel the benefits of the Pro Circuit pull rods. 

Off throttle (de-cel) the Yamaha YZ450F felt flatter and less front end heavy, which gave me a YZ450F that now had more control on braking bumps. Corner entry wasn't improved, but I could feel how the Yamaha could lean over better through the middle to end of each corner. With the Pro Circuit link It took slightly less effort for me to continue my lean on the Yamaha, which usually isn't its strong point. Out of the corner (with the softer high speed compression setting) the Yamaha had more rear wheel traction and followed the ground better on acceleration bumps. The rear of the bike was higher in its stroke with the PC rods and gave me more of a plush feel than the stock link. I am able to run a softer high speed compression setting as well as low speed to get more comfort on choppy ruts. 

The overall feeling of the YZ450F with the PC link is a slightly calmer chassis off throttle with a better mid to exit cornering feel. If I had to point out a negative about the PC link it would have to be that once you’re off throttle the Yamaha has a firmer rear end feel. Even though I am gaining control on braking bumps, the YZ450F will feel firmer if the rider isn’t aggressive or pushing the bike. I feel the Pro Circuit linkage arms reward a more aggressive rider, so if you’re the average weekend warrior that likes to cruise his Yamaha YZ450F and is comfortable with your set up, these Pro Circuit linkage arms may not be the best purchasing decision. However, if you’re looking for more control on braking bumps, with a firmer feel and an easier area 2 to 3 (see testing term explanation below)  through corners, then the Pro Circuit linkage arms make a positive difference. 

Cornering Testing Terminology: 

Area 1: Beginning of corner (initial lean, tip in)

Area 2: Middle of corner (weight feel, traction, cornering stability)

Area 3: Exit of corner (rear wheel traction/connection, comfort)

Husqvarna FC450 Triple Clamp Offset Test

The Husqvarna FC 450 Rockstar Edition comes standard with the Husqvarna Technical Accessories Adjustable Factory Triple Clamp. If you’re riding a standard FC450 these clamps adjustable clamps are available through your local Husqvarna dealer for $599.99. The adjustable clamp comes standard at a 22mm offset but can also be moved to a 20mm offset as well. The factory Rockstar Energy Husqvarna team is currently running these on their bikes and to me these factory clamps have a softer feel to them compared to the triple clamps that come on the standard 2020 FC450. There is less rigidity as well as more flex with the Husqvarna adjustable factory or X-Trig clamps compared to the standard/stock FC450 clamps. I have never really messed with the offset on the Husqvarna for motocross, so I thought I would experiment with each offset and even throw in an X-Trig 24mm offset for good measure. Below are some of the positives and negatives of each offset, as well which type of track each offset would benefit you the most.

Criteria: I chose Glen Helen as my testing grounds. They have the national track, which is fast and very rough as well as the REM track, which has more turns and is slower speed. I gave each offset setting a try on both tracks to see what I would lean towards in hopes to give you a direction for your personal needs.  

Offset: The triple clamp-offset is the distance of the horizontal center line of both fork tubes to the center of the steering axis, about which the fork legs are offset from the steering axis (referred to as dimensionX). The offset set can be seen at a glance by the marking on the triple clamp.

20mm Offset Husqvarna Clamp: 

+ Lean in is made easier on initial turn in

+ Front tire contact patch is improved on de-cel

+Lightweight feel improved (side to side movement)

- On throttle front end hunt/peck (deflection more apparent)

- Slight oversteer on long sweeping corners 

- Slight less comfort on initial bump impact 

Who is this setting best for? 

20mm offset is best for slower riders who have trouble with cornering or leaning into a rut. This setting makes it easier for the FC450 to fall into a rut and stay there. This setting was also much better for the tighter/slower track as there was less on throttle stability issues at the tighter track. 

Who is this setting not for? 

20mm offset is not for faster riders who want stability out of their machines on faster tracks. There is a lot of movement in the front end, on throttle, which leads to deflection in square edge. 

Best Overall Fork Setting With 20mm Offset:

Height: 1st line

Air Pressure: 11.0 bar

Comp: 11 out

Rebound: 16 out

22mm Offset Husqvarna Clamp:

+ Stability improved over 20mm offset (on/off throttle)

+ Bump absorption has more comfort than 20mm offset

+ Cornering stability is improved 

- Slightly heavier feel than 20mm (side to side/lean in)

- On throttle rear end squatting more (feels low)

Who is this setting best for?

For me this is the best all around setting for flowy/faster/intermediate terrain motocross tracks with bigger bumps. It’s a blend of good stability and predictability. I can hit bumps harder with the 22mm offset without the chassis reacting too fast. 

Who is this setting not for? 

This setting is not for fast west coast GP style courses or the older vet rider that needs assistance with cornering. Sliding the fork up to the second line helps this, but if you’re having trouble sticking in a rut, the 20mm offset can be more helpful than the 22mm setting. 

Best Overall Fork Setting With 22mm Offset:

Height: 1st line

Air Pressure: 11.1 bar

Comp: 14 out

Rebound: 15 out

24mm Offset X-Trig Clamp:

+ Very planted feeling chassis down choppy hills

+ Bump Absorption feel is better than 20/22mm offsets

+ Sweeping cornering stability/comfort/contact patch better than 20/22

+ Less vibration through bars with PDHS mounts

- Side to side movement feels lazy/heavy (initial lean)

- Vague front end feel while leaning in ruts (going up on fork height helps this)

- Bar pad doesn't fit because of PDHS mounts

Who is this setting best for?

The 24mm offset would be beneficial to any rider who wants more high speed front end stability. The 24mm offset helps with bump absorption on throttle and keep front tire straight. West coast GP or off-road riders would benefit from a 24mm offset.  

Who is this setting not for:

The 24mm wouldn't benefit most moto riders that are looking for a quick handling machine with a blend of straight line stability. The 24mm is more of a point and shoot type of offset. Come in straight and pivot/rear wheel steer out. 

Best Overall Fork Setting With 24mm Offset:

Height: 2nd line

Air Pressure: 11.0 bar

Comp: 10 out

Rebound: 14 out

Ride Engineering Performance Link (KTM 125SX)

My son loves riding his 2020 KTM 125SX, but comments all the time on how he feels like the KTM sits taller than his Yamaha YZ125. When I watch him ride I notice that the rear end of his 125SX kicks him in his ass when hitting braking bumps and when that happens, it makes the front end dive too much on corner entry. He only weighs in at around 115 pounds, so going down a spring rate on the shock was a must, but to me, the bike still looked unbalanced on de-cel.

I called up Adrian at Ride Engineering and asked what he had for the KTM 125SX and we both agreed to try a rear link to see if that would help balance out the bike. This Ride Engineering link lowers the back of the KTM 125SX chassis by 7mm to try and improve the ride balance. I set the sag at 103mm with the Ride Engineering link versus the usual 105mm of sag that we were running on Aden’s KTM. Just know that you might have to adjust your air pressure setting on your AER fork to get the right front end feel, since you’re dropping the rear of the bike with the new link (more on that below).

For this test I had two KTM 125SX machines. One was set up for my son, with his softer shock spring and one was just a bone stock KTM 125SX with the sag set for me at 105mm. We started later in the day at a couple tracks on separate days to make sure the track was nice and broke in before we started to make our changes. Doing this ensures that the track doesn't change too much from each change we made to the orange machines. With the Ride Engineering link I noticed better tracking/acceleration coming out of choppy corners and slightly more stability off-throttle. I really liked that the link helped the ride attitude of the KTM when leaning, under throttle, on choppy terrain. I had more trust in the KTM when loading the chassis hard on throttle. I didn't get near as much kicking coming down rough hills and the overall cornering character didn’t suffer. I was worried that this Ride Engineering link would hurt turn in, but to my surprise it didn't affect the KTM’s easy natured turn in character. 

Aden’s comments didn't exactly mimic mine, but one comment that actually made sense was he did like that he felt lower to the ground, when sitting, and that helped him with his starts. When watching him ride the bike was visibly less busy in the rear and didn't give him as much kicking on de-cel. The length of the Ride Engineering pull rods are 1.3mm’s longer than stock and come in at a 149.5mm overall length. Aden doesn't know enough about chassis testing to give me some great feedback, but some of his comments overlapped mine. I more or less watch the bike when he rides and then decide if it’s a good direction or not. We decided to leave the Ride Engineering link on his bike after we both came to an agreement that he looked/felt better on a rough track with it on.

If you do decide to get the Ride Engineering Performance Link just know that you may have to adjust your AER fork pressure, if you’re still on air forks. Now with the Ride Engineering pull rods installed the rear end will ride a little lower, so the front end might seem a little high. Dropping the air pressure anywhere between .2-.5 bar might be needed to get some added front end traction. We dropped Aden’s air pressure from 8.3 bar to 8.1 bar at some tracks and even down to 8 bar at others. Try running your normal AER pressure when you first put on the Ride pull rods and see how your front end feels though corners. If you feel like your front end is tall, your front end is pushing, or have a vague front end feel, just try to drop your air pressure slightly. This will help let the fork use more of its stroke and get that front tire to bite into the ground more. 

The Ride Engineering Performance Link comes complete with bearings and seals and is not that difficult to install. I literally changed the link out at the track on several days. If you’re looking to get a little more stability and rear wheel traction without sacrificing cornering, then you might want to try this link. MSRP is $219.95, but you can use the code Keefer-20 to save 20% if you want to order through ride-engineering.com. 

SKF Linkage Seals Part Numbers (KTM 450 SX-F/Husqvarna FC450)

The new 2020.5 KTM Factory Edition and Husqvarna Rockstar Edition come with updated SKF seals in the linkage for less friction and actually do make a little difference on the track. With the updated linkage seals the rear of these new 2020.5 bikes feel freer and give less harshness to the back of the bike on square edge acceleration bumps. The action of the shock feels smoother over bumps and when I rode a standard 2020 KTM back to back with the 2020.5 KTM, I experienced more of a forgiving feel, on throttle, over bumps, almost immediately. I didn’t notice a huge difference between the old seals and the new SKF seals on de-cel as most of the benefit was on throttle sensation only.

If you’re not in the market for a new Husqvarna or KTM 450, but still want to upgrade your linkage on your older white or orange machine, we thought why not give you the part numbers to make it easier for you to order.

Part number: 79104082032

Description: Seal triangular

Quantity: 4

Part number: 79104082030

Description: Seal triangular

Quantity: 2

WP XACT Pro Components Real World Review

When deciding to spend a few thousand extra dollars on suspension for your ten thousand dollar KTM/Husqvarna, you want to know if it’s going to make a difference immediately. Is it going to make me a better rider? Will I be able to ride faster with it? Do the WP’s XACT Pro Components that much better than stock? These are a few of the questions I get when the consumer is trying to make a decision on getting a set of WP XACT Pro Components. I have pounded hundreds of laps and a ton of hours on the stock WP AER fork/shock as well as the XACT Pro Components (on the 2020 KTM 450 SX-F and Husqvarna FC450) to see if it’s worth the risk of your wife losing her mind when she sees the charge on the bank statement. 

What Are WP XACT Pro Components and what are the differences between older WP Cone Valve/Trax components? 

WP's Pro Components line is aftermarket suspension designed for riders who want the highest quality components and are willing to pay a reasonable amount of money for them. Pro Components are manufactured to tight tolerances using high quality materials, fine surface finishes, and low-friction coatings. This reduces friction compared to WP’s OEM suspension components, and is perhaps their most significant advantage. In fact, to achieve a similar feeling of stiffness to the OEM suspension, all Pro Components required much stiffer damping. The additional stiction in the OEM components is all due to friction. Friction is perhaps the one thing in suspension where no compromise is involved: less friction is always better. When setup appropriately for the rider, Pro Components can deliver high confidence at high speeds.

The Xact Pro fork is the next evolution in "Cone Valve" technology. It retains the same Cone Valve technology and is available in three basic variants: closed cartridge with coil springs, closed cartridge with air spring, and open cartridge with coil springs. The Cone Valve itself is nothing too extraordinary as it's simply a shimless mid-valve. The cup-in-cone valve actuates via a coil spring, providing the variable orifice function that shims normally handle. The Cone Valve spring rate is linear, unlike shims which are more progressive. Also unlike shims, it does not have a maximum safe deflection distance. It can be setup stiffer and with less float than a shimmed valve without getting too much of a rigid handling ride.

The Xact Pro shock features an updated version of the Trax mechanism used in previous Trax shocks. WP’s Trax system is created to reduce rebound damping when the rear wheel is off the ground, helping get the tire back to traction as quickly as possible. The Trax system is now externally adjustable with a screwdriver, which makes the Trax function much easier to use and understand. The shock uses the same high-end construction as the Xact Pro fork and as a result, it sees a similar reduction in friction compared to OEM shock. It uses a nitrogen bladder instead of a piston separator, which has lower friction, but can require more frequent services compared to WP’s traditional piston separator setup. As with past Trax shocks, it separates high-speed compression and low-speed compression into two separate adjusters instead of one dual compression control (DCC) adjuster. The Trax shock shaft includes a rebound separator valve, which isolates compression and rebound adjustments, and increases low speed compression damping at the mid-valve (which can aid in pressure balance)

 WP’s XACT Pro Components are usually found on all of my KTM’s and Husqvarna’s I race with. Why? I get more consistency and performance out of the XACT Pro Components than that of the stock AER fork/stock WP shock. I tested the stock suspension settings on the 2020 KTM 450 SX-F back to back with the WP Pro Components and came away with this opinion: 

On The Track:

The first thing I noticed when I go out onto any type of track with the XACT fork is that the KTM turns slightly slower than the AER fork on initial lean (into corners), which is exactly what out of the KTM. The KTM does have a slightly rigid feel to it and can be a handful when riding fast, choppy tracks. You can actually feel the extra weight right away (in the front end) compared to the stock AER fork, but it wasn't a bad feeling. I was just surprised I could feel it as much when entering corners. Usually I run the fork flush on previous Cone Valve forks, but with the slower turn in feel and a the longer length of the new style XACT fork I went with a 5mm height. Along with the extra weight feeling however I gained more front end traction through every corner (especially flat corners). The XACT fork leaves you with a more front tire contact patch sensation on lean angle and you can start your lean earlier in ruts without getting the high front end, vague feeling like you do with the AER fork. With the AER fork I get some pushing in the front end through the middle to end of corners, which made makes me roll off the throttle to try and compensate. With the XACT fork I can lean in the corner and the fork stays planted, which lets my front end settle and bite. The WP XACT fork also feels less active on braking bumps. I am able to jump in and out of bigger bumps that each track I tested at offered, without having the fork rebound too quick and be too active. If I wanted to pound through the bumps, the fork had better damping control feeling through the middle to end part of the stroke. 

The most notable change was to my wrists when over jumping/flat landing with the XACT fork. I could get more aggressive with obstacles and have the bike settle into corners better in areas of the track I wasn't able to with the stock suspension. The downside to the XACT fork is that it can make the KTM feel like it has less flex up near the head tube area. This feeling is not as rigid as a Honda CRF450R, but it does give you a firmer feel through your hands on small bumps, compared to the AER fork. The key to the WP XACT fork is getting it set up for you. WP does a great job of getting you the XACT fork with a “ballpark” setting, but going through an authorized dealer that can set it up for your personal needs is the best way to ensure your investment works the best. I tested the XACT fork with their customer setting and although it was better than stock, I could have used a little more hold up on hard braking or when their was deeper braking bumps.

The XACT shock holds up better than the stock shock for me on high speed compression and you are able to get more aggressive around the track. I can hit the faces of jumps harder and the KTM did not give me an empty/low feeling sensation that the stock shock sometimes gave me. In order to combat that feeling with the stock shock I would have to crank in the high speed compression so much that I would lose the comfort coming out of corners (and rear wheel traction). The XACT Pro shock provides you with more high-speed damping and you still get a decent amount of acceleration comfort on choppy corner exits. I also noticed a little more connectivity to the the rear wheel (when hard on the gas) on flat corners with the XACT Pro shock compared to the stock shock. The XACT Pro shock is firmer so there is less wallow in the rear end when accelerating, so the rear of the KTM 450 SX-F tracks straighter and doesn't upset the KTM’s chassis as much at speed. “Balanced” is a great word to describe both ends of the KTM, but I did notice the harder I pushed the more it rewarded me. If I tried to ride smoother/slower, the action of the shock wasn't quite as comfortable as the stock shock. This XACT Pro likes to be pushed and will reward the rider that is aggressive because of its much more consistent nature (compared to the stock shock). Again, going to a WP authorized dealer and having it set up for you is key. Thinking that you’re just going to go purchase A-Kit level suspension, slap it on, and then magically be in heaven on the track is completely foolish! Get it set up for your weight, riding ability, and the type of rider you are will ensure that your money is spent correctly. 

Conclusion:

Do you “need” these WP Pro Components on your machine? If you’re a casual rider, of course not. However if you’re a KTM/Husqvarna rider and race consistently, I think the WP Pro Components are worth the price. For around $3499.00 for the fork and $2199.00 for the shock it’s an investment that you should take seriously. If it was me, had one bike, was on either a KTM or Husqvarna, I would invest in a set of WP Pro Components because when I ride/race, I want the most consistent feel I can get. I also know that if you are the type of rider that gets a new KTM/Husqvarna every couple years, you’re able to roll these WP Pro Components over to your new bike. This is an investment that you can continue to roll over with each passing model year. I think it’s safe to say that KTM or Husqvarna will not change their motocross models until the year 2022, so your WP Pro Components will fit at least until then. Even if KTM/Husqvarna change their machines drastically, chances are these newer WP Pro Components will bolt on. 

FAQ: 

“Keefer, have you tried a set of standard re-valved WP AER forks and shock”? The answer is yes and although the comfort was improved (over the standard/stock set of suspension), the consistency just wasn't as good as the WP Pro Components. I would say that a set of stock re-valved stuff will definitely be good for your local racer that simply can’t afford new Pro Components. Companies like Race Tech, Kreft, and Enzo all have very good re-valved stock suspension settings. 

“Keefer, is there something I can do about the rigidity I am gaining with the WP XACT Pro Component fork”? Yes, going to a WP/KTM Factory Triple Clamp will help with some of the rigidity that the stock clamps come with. Also, you can go to a bottom triple clamp torque spec of 9N/m. Both will help with comfort on braking bumps, slap downs, as well as get you less rigidity feel through your handlebars. 

If you have any questions about this test, feel free to email me at kris@keeferinctesting.com 

Ride Engineering Axle/Axle Block Kit For KTM/Husqvarna

KTM/Husqvarna uses an axle that resembles a bolt with a nut on one end. Although it’s nice not to have to mess with the left side axle block when putting in the axle through the swingarm, it’s not so friendly on the rear end of the bike while you're riding. Why? Because when you’re heavy on the throttle coming out of corners the rear end of your machine will squat under load putting force on the axle/axle blocks that sometimes can make the shock feel rigid and harsh. If the axle blocks can’t semi float (when hitting bumps under throttle) there will be some added rigidity put on the swingarm. Although crazy to think about little things like this can make a noticeable difference with the handling of your machine. 

Ride Engineering makes a KTM/Husqvarna axle/axle block kit that eliminates the one-piece axle/axle block on the KTM/Husqvarna. Instead, it uses a Honda CRF450R rear axle combined with special CNC-machined axle blocks that slip into the KTM/Husqvarna swingarm. However, you will need the special axle blocks to properly space the borrowed Honda axle. The Ride Engineering axle blocks retail for $54.95, and they offer Honda rear axles for $44.95, but how do they work? 

I am not going to sit here and blow smoke up your asses and say everyone that has a KTM/Husqvarna are going to feel this modification. Could I feel the difference when going back to back with the stock axle/Ride Engineering axle block kit? Yes, I could, but to me I only could feel it when coming out of corners with square edge as well as fast choppy conditions. After installing the Ride Engineering kit the rear of the bike felt more compliant and had less spike/harsh feel. I could feel more rear wheel traction immediately out of corners as the rear of the KTM/Husqvarna stayed straighter under throttle. I also felt like I could stiffen up my shock’s low speed compression because I had a free-er feel to the rear of the bike under load. To me a modification like this is worth it because I can actually feel more comfort. I had some of my less sensitive test riders help me with this test and one of them couldn't feel a thing, so installing the Ride Engineering Axle Block Kit should be based on how sensitive of a rider you are. 

The Ride Engineering Axle/Axle Block Kit does not add weight to the machine and in fact weighs a couple grams less than the KTM/Husqvarna axle, just in case you’re on a diet and counting your grams. The Ride Engineering axle blocks themselves come in black or orange and have a unique design that allows easy chain alignment with tabs that have markings that can be easily seen and measured off the end of the swingarm. The blocks are also 2mm shorter than stock for more gearing options.  

If you’re a sensitive rider and can feel your way around a motorcycle fairly well this Ride Engineering axle/axle block kit is a great way to get more connection out of your orange or white ride. Head over to Ride-Engineering.com to check them out. 

X-Trig Rocs Pro Clamps (2019 Honda CRF450R)

I have been getting ready for the first two AMA outdoor nationals and knew that I was going to be running an aftermarket triple clamps and those clamps would be X-Trig. Since my practice bike was my test bike, I thought it would be beneficial to get a set of X-Trig clamps to ride/test with to make sure I could get the “feel” of an aftermarket triple clamp, since I am so used to riding with the stock clamps on the 2019 Honda CRF450R. Like I have spoken about before, it’s tough to find aftermarket triple clamps that perform better than stock these days. So much R&D is involved (at the OEM level) in making a triple clamp that flexes enough, but also has enough rigidity to aid the machine under load/through corners as well. With the triple clamp flex character so important to each specific chassis (on all motocross bikes) sometimes it’s tough to find anyone that can make a “comfortable” set of aftermarket triple clamps. Why do you need aftermarket triple clamps? Well sometimes it’s just for looks with some riders, but there are occasions where you might want another offset to help you get more stability or a sharper turning character out of your machine. In this case I was simply wanting to make sure that I wouldn't be trading comfort for stiffness on the Honda CRF450R somewhat finicky chassis setting.

Enter X-trig’s ROCS Tech Triple Clamps and PHDS Mounts. “ROCS” stands for “Revolutionary Opposing Clamp System”. The ROCS clamp allows for precise alignment of the fork tube with opposing clamping surface patterns, the stiffness of the steering stem is specifically tuned to the respective motorcycle model, the steering-head bearing is already mounted on the shaft tube for convenience, a special fork slot and clamping area for precise fork operation, precise clamping with special screws for low torque specs, OEM attachments can be mounted without auxiliary material, and flexibility that is adapted to the fork with anodizing in the technical factory OEM look. The difference between the ROCS “Tech” and the ROCS “Pro” is the “Tech” uses a standard offset with a pressed shaft tube. The “Pro” has two offsets you can choose from by simply adjusting the shaft tube (or steering stem). I felt it would be beneficial to try another offset with the Honda CRF450R for testing purposes, so I went with the ROCS Pro clamps. 

The PHDS (Progressive Handlebar Dampening System) is a system supported by elastomers designed to absorb engine and chassis vibrations. The system also dampens the forces acting on the handlebar in a horizontal and vertical direction, maintaining steering precision. The handlebar can be adjusted in 12 different positions when the PHDS is mounted. The Honda vibrates more in the handlebar area than any other 450 aluminum framed motocross bike, so this is something that I feel the Honda needs, in my opinion. 

Installation of the ROCS clamp is fairly straight forward (with the pressed shaft tube). All you need to do is grease up the steering head bearing and slide the bottom clamp up in the head tube of the frame. All of the front fender mounting points and even the OEM hour meter bolts up the same way with the X-trig clamps. Super clean! Mounting up the PHDS bar mounts is a little tricky as the mounts themselves have a lot of moving parts, so make sure to read the instructions to ensure proper mounting. Technical Touch offers optional PHDS bar mount elastomers that come in soft or firm, but I chose to run the stock medium style elastomers, which seem to be just fine for motocross conditions. 

I am super picky about bar positioning, shocking I know, so I went with the mounting hole closest to me (when sitting on bike) on the triple clamp with the PHDS mounts forward. This handlebar position gave me a +1 mm bar position (forward from stock), which I preferred as the stock Honda rider triangle is just fine for my 6’0 frame. The PHDS bar mount itself is the same height as the stock bar mount, which also was good for me and I mated the clamp/mount with a Pro Taper EVO SX RACE handlebar. Having so many positions available for the rider is definitely a huge positive for adjustability with these ROCS clamps. If you feel like you need a higher PHDS handlebar mount, X-trig also offers spacers to go under the PHDS mounting system. You can pick from 3mm, 5mm, and 10mm spacers.

So what did the X-trig ROCS Tech Triple Clamp and PHDS handlebar mounts do on the track? My goal for this test was to not gain front end rigidity, get a more precise front end feel through corners, without getting deflection on hard pack/rough straights. Basically trying to NOT get a harsher ride on the Honda, tough to do right? The good news is that this is exactly what I found with the X-trig ROCS Tech/PHDS system, but there is some fine print that I want to fill you in on. The X-trig ROCS Tech clamp on the CRF450R provided enough flex and doesn’t feel like it negatively affected front end bump absorption, but was also stiff enough to give me a positive front wheel feel through flat corners. The ROCS Tech clamp is most noticeable when diving deep into a rut where there is a huge load put on the front end, forced by the rider. The chassis positivity through this area is better than the stock clamps. The stock clamps has a tendency to flex too much and give the rider a wiggle immediately off throttle (on deeply tilled tracks or soft dirt) or give the rider an unsettled (dive) when dropping into a long/deep rut (this sensation can only be felt mostly by faster or heavier riders). The X-trig ROCS Tech clamp gives the front end less wallow (firmer) and more cornering stability (without upsetting chassis balance). Straight line stability is as good as stock and front end bump absorption is only minimally stiffer feeling on braking bumps/square edge. 

Optional Setting: I have tried the ROCS “Tech” with the pressed steering stem shaft as well and that set up is a little firmer of a feel as well as provided a little more rigidity (I found out this when I went to ride my race bike, which has the “Tech” installed). The differences are small, but I did feel it nonetheless. Going to a 24mm offset on the ROCS “Pro” helped the Honda settle down on faster tracks. Running the fork up 4mm with a 24mm offset really helped calm this chassis down for 2:00PM motos (AKA ROUGH TRACKS). The 24mm offset did affect the Honda’s turn in capabilities and made it feel slightly heaver through corners. If you’re looking to slow the chassis down on faster tracks try going to the 24mm offset, 105mm’s of sag, and the fork up 4mm. 

The PHDS mounts do not vibrate nearly as much as the OEM rubber mounted bar mounts. The PHDS bar mounts flex as good as stock with the standard elastomers (up and down), but dampen vibration noticeably better around the track (especially at higher RPM’s). Slap down landings are improved slightly and front end positivity (entrance into corners) are as good as an OEM feel. Simply put, the vibration characteristics the PHDS mounts provide are well worth their weight in gold. I use “weight” because they are heavier than stock ones by quite a bit, but I will gladly take some extra ounces over vibration any day. 

The cost of the X-trig ROCS Tech Triple Clamps and PHDS handlebar mounts are $900.00. The cost is more expensive than other triple clamps out on the market by a couple hundred bucks. However, there are only two triple clamps that I have tested, that to me, are as good or better than stock. If you're looking to get a set of clamps for the temperamental Honda CRF450R “vibes” pick up some front end cornering stability, get an optional offset, and even improve the looks of your Honda, X-trig has some really nice clamps and handlebar mounts available for your red motocross machine. You can check out and purchase all of the X-trig products over at technicaltouchusa.com.   

If you have any questions about this test please feel free to email me at kris@keeferinctesting.com.