Pro Taper Fuzion Handlebar

The Pro Taper Fuzion handlebar has been around for a while now and was a totally new concept to the off-road world (for crossbar lovers) when it was released a few years ago. The flex/locking system allows riders to choose between a stiffer/more controlled handlebar feel or a softer more shock absorbing feel depending on terrain and rider preference. Changing the bar from “Locked” to “Unlocked” takes only seconds by simply removing the bar pad and turning a knob. The Fuzion utilizes Pro Taper’s exclusive aluminum alloy, 4mm wall design for lightweight, strength and comes in six different bar bends.

 Depending on what type of bike I am riding depends on if I like running a crossbar or not. For example, lately when I have been riding a KTM/Husqvarna I like to run a crossbar because it feels better through corners to me visually (I know, don't ask). When I ride a Yamaha I go to a handlebar without a crossbar. Why? You guessed it, because they come stock with that style and it feels normal to me. I usually can tell the difference in stiffness when I go back and forth between each type of bar I ride with, so this made me want to test the Fuzion technology.

 The 1-1/8 Fuzion handlebar weighs in at 1lb,15oz. and was put on several of my test bikes. The easy-to-adjust locking system can be adjusted by simply taking the bar pad off and turning the knob in the middle of the crossbar. If you’re used to running a 7/8 bar with a crossbar on your bike, but want some added strength, the Fuzion can be a great option. The downside to using a standard oversize bar with a crossbar is getting added rigidity through the bars that could be hard on the arms/wrists. Setting the Pro Taper Fuzion to the “unlock” position was most noticeable on the 2019 Honda CRF450R due to it being a more rigid feeling chassis. In stock form the Honda comes with a Renthal Fatbar handlebar and putting the Fuzion bar on gave me a less rigid through my arms. On braking bumps and hard slap down landings the Fuzion bar flexed as if I didn’t have a cross bar on. Does it flex more than an oversize crossbar-less handlebar? After spending more time on both types of bars I would say it’s very similar, but the crossbar-less handlebar still has a bit more flex to it.

 I am very picky when it comes to handlebars and I felt that the Fuzion handlebar (when in the “locked” position) is slightly more precise (than on the unlocked position) when trying to corner on hard pack slick surfaces. Also, to my surprise only a little more rigidity was felt on braking bumps and on flat landings when “locked”. The smoother the track surfaces the better the Fuzion worked in the locked position. However, 90% of the time I felt the Fuzion felt best when “unlocked”. Especially for the hacked out, choppy, desert tracks I test on.  A few tip overs and one big get off left me praising the Fuzion’s durability. This happened on the Husqvarna and the handlebar got twisted in the bar mounts, but the handlebar itself wasn’t bent.

 So at the end of the day why not just use an oversize crossbar-less handlebar you ask? The Fuzion handlebar eliminates having “crossbar lovers” cut their oversized crossbar handlebars for increased flex (and avoiding potential handlebar failure to achieve desired flex when he/she demands a crossbar). I like that ProTaper addressed the need for this niche market and cater to picky people like myself. Yes, it’s more expensive (at $129.99) than your average 7/8 handlebar, but it also will withstand a bigger crash.  

Keefer's Handlebar Dimension Recommendations

When it comes to handlebars I am a very picky person. The height, width, rise, and position is very important to me. I find that you can’t run the same handlebar bend on every bike, even though I like a bend on one bike, sometimes it doesn’t feel as good on another. Every bike has a different rider triangle so you must adapt to different bar bends as you change motorcycles. As the years progress, dirt bikes evolve and so do their dimensions. As you may have heard in my “Handlebar 101” podcast (show #70), if the bar feels too low (height), you should try to get the bar height from your bar mount and not the handlebar itself. Getting the height from your bar mount allows you to keep proper technique (position) through corners (where most of the time is made up on a track). I wanted to break down some of my favorite bar bends right here (for each new motocross machine) and give you a recommendation on bar mount height for different sized riders.

As you will notice most of these handlebars on this list are Pro Taper and Renthal. This doesn’t mean that I am trying to sell you these handlebar brands. This is just what I personally like myself and should be taken as such. If you like another bar brand, that is fine, simply look at the dimension of the preferred handlebar and try to mimic that dimension to your favorite handlebar company. There are tons of handlebar companies out there, but for me, Renthal and Pro Taper are the bars that I prefer. For testing purposes, I tried a wide range of handlebars in my shootout so go give that podcast a listen when you can (Show #70). There are some great options out there. Again….This doesn’t mean other handlebars are crap. For transparency reasons, I am letting you know that these are the companies I prefer. I receive ZERO dollars from Renthal or Pro Taper.

• We are using 2019 models for reference, but if you have an older model and are concerned on which handlebar to run please feel free to email me at kris@keeferinctesting.com.

• All Dimensions are in (MM).

2019 Honda CRF 450R/250R:

Notes: The stock bar bend on the 2019 Honda CRF 450R/250R has finally been updated to a bend that is lower and flatter than previous years. This bend is actually quite good and we usually leave the stock Renthal handlebar on the Honda. If you think you would like more flex you can try the optional bar bend below.

Preferred:

Stock Renthal 839 FatBar (W)802 (H)91 (R)52 (S)51

Optional:

Pro Taper EVO SX Race (W)800 (H)87 (R)54.5 (S)54

Bar Mount Height: Stock 

2019 Yamaha YZ450F/250F:

Notes: Yamaha also did a good job on creating a bar that is fairly neutral for different sized riders. It’s lower height seems to fit a wide variety of riders (5’8-6’2), but taller riders may want to put bar mount in forward hole/back position.

Preferred:

Pro Taper EVO SX Race (W)800 (H)87 (R)54.5 (S)54

Optional:

Renthal Fatbar 602 bend (W)801 (H)89 (R)59 (S)56

Bar Mount Height: Stock

2019 Kawasaki KX450/250:

Notes: 7/8 lives on! Kawasaki managed to keep the good ol’ 971 Renthal 7/8 bars, which are pretty damn good! I like a 7/8 bar and I actually stick with the 7/8 theme if I can. The 7/8 bar does bend a little easier, but you get a lot of flex when the track gets rough. If you’re an aggressive rider who likes a little more positive steering than go to a 1-1/8 handlebar for increased stiffness.

Preferred: Renthal 7/8 983 bend (Villopoto/Stewart) (W)808 (H)95 (R)58 (S)55

Oversize Option: Pro Taper Fuzion Henry/Reed (W)800 (H)92 (R)66 (R)40 (S)55

Bar Mount Height: Stock

2019 Suzuki RM-Z450/250:

Notes: The stock Suzuki bend has some sweep to it, which makes the bike feel small at times. I prefer to open the cockpit up a little.

Preferred: Pro Taper EVO SX Race bend (W)800 (H)87 (R)54.5 (S)54

Optional: ODI Podium Flight CountryBoy bend (W)803 (H)92 (R)56 (S)57

Bar Mount Height: Stock

2019 Husqvarna FC450/250:

Notes: Husqvarna comes with a very low bend and that fits the ergos of this bike, but the width of the bar is too long. I actually like the stock handlebar bend on the Husqvarna, however I cut the handlebar down to 803mm, which really helps the character of the Husqvarna when leaning into corners.

Preferred: Stock Pro Taper EVO handlebar cut to 803mm (W)811 (H)80 (R)39.5 (S)51

Optional: Pro Taper EVO Carmichael bend (W)800 (H)77 (R)40 (S)55

Bar Mount Height: Plus 5mm

2019 KTM 450SX-F/250SX-F:

Notes: The stock bar bend shape on the orange brigade is also decent, but it is too stiff and long. If you don’t think it is too stiff, you can simply cut the bar to 803mm and run it!

Preferred: Renthal 821 bend cut to 803mm (W)813 (H)78 (R)42 (S)54

Optional: Pro Taper EVO Husqvarna Stock cut to 803mm (W) 811 (H)77 (R)40 (S)55

Bar Mount Height: Plus 5mm

Pro Taper Clamp-On Grips

There are certain things on motorcycles that are easy to improve on (seats, handlebars, foot pegs etc). Then there are grips, which for the most part are just rubber pieces on the ends of your handlebars that help keep you connect to the machine. However, for being just "rubber pieces" most riders are particular about which ones they use. Most riders have their favorite sets of grips and usually stick to those as long as they're riding. As of late there are a few companies out there who have decided that the grip needed a revamp and could be made better. Pro Taper is probably the largest handlebar company to jump into the clamp-on grip market and I was happy to get my hands on a set (pun intended). I wanted to see for myself if the days of safety wire and glue were a thing of the past. Instead of just molding rubber over plastic like some other companies have done, Pro Taper took a deeper look at the clamp-on grip to see how they could be made better. They windowed the clutch side plastic housing so there’s more cushion for the rider’s palm and fingertips. In addition to the windows in the housing they also made the overall diameter of the left side grip slightly smaller. 

 I got the PT grips (I got ½ waffle, but they offer 3 grip patterns) for the 2019 YZ 250F test bike and figured the neon blue/black (they have a magnitude of colorways) would look decent so I started the install process. The clutch side is as easy as it sounds, cut off the old grip, make sure the bar is clean, slide the new clamp-on grip on and tighten the pinch bolt once the waffle is oriented the desired way. For the throttle side Pro Taper gives you a selection of throttle cams that lock onto the throttle tube. In the instructions they give you a list of the cams they provide and what bike they go to. You just have to match the number with your bike, index the gears on the cam and throttle in the orientation you want the waffle. Next you need to remove the stock throttle tube and replace it with the new Pro Taper Clamp-On Grip/Tube combo. This is where it can be slightly annoying because once I got the throttle side reassembled, I realized the teeth were off by one so I had to take the whole throttle assembly back apart to re-index it (I’m anal with how my grips and levers are oriented). Once back together the grips are 100% locked on and they haven’t moved on me since the install.

 The first thing I noticed when I rode the bike was the smaller clutch side grip. I was personally not a fan of the smaller diameter because of my large hands (I wear an XL glove), but some other testers with smaller hands have mentioned they like the smaller size. I’ve ridden with other brands of clamp-on grips and noticed a definite increase in vibration to my hands over traditional style grips, but this wasn’t totally the case with the Pro Taper Clamp-On Grips. Although the vibration is much less than other “Clamp-On” brands, I still notice a slight increase in vibration over the stock Yamaha grips on both sides. They never twisted after riding in mud or after being washed, nor did the clamp ever come loose. All that being said let’s get to the point; although a good idea, I don’t think clamp-on grips are for me for the following reasons. I don’t like the slight vibration felt through the grips. I don’t like the smaller clutch side grip (could just be my large hands). I don’t like having to take the throttle assembly apart to change grips. Lastly, are “we” that lazy that “we” can’t put on some glue and slap on a grip? If the reasons I just listed don’t apply to you then these grips just may be for you. Maybe you don’t like safety wiring on grips? Maybe you hate grip glue or maybe you just don’t like having to slide on new grips and would rather clamp them on. For me however, I think I’ll just stick to the old school rubber things on the ends of my handlebars. -Michael Allen

Second Opinion: I also have put some time on the Pro Taper Clamp-On Grips…I am much like Michael where I prefer glue on/old school grips. I get what companies like Pro Taper are trying to do here though, I am not oblivious. They are making it easier for the customer to install new grips and giving them more choices. I believe this is a great business model for the weekend warrior and to me there is no real negative to the Pro Taper Clamp-On Grips…Except getting a slightly firmer feel than my glue on style 1/2 waffle soft grips. The Pro Taper Clamp-On Grips are not as rigid feeling as the ones that come on the KTM’s so that's a plus. Just like Michael said, if you’re a “Clamp-On” type of rider then you will be impressed by these grips. I prefer a glue feel, but I am super annoying and picky. -Kris Keefer

Pro Taper Fuzion Handlebars

The Pro Taper Fuzion handlebar has been around for a while now and was a totally new concept to the off-road world (for crossbar lovers) when it was released a few years ago. The flex locking system allows riders to choose between a stiffer, more controlled handlebar feel or a softer more shock absorbing feel depending on terrain and rider preference. Changing the bar from “Locked” to “Unlocked” takes only seconds by simply turning a knob. The Fuzion utilizes Pro Taper’s exclusive aluminum alloy, 4mm wall design for lightweight, strength and comes in six different bar bends.

Depending on what type of bike I am riding depends on if I like running a crossbar type handlebar or not. For example when I am riding a Honda I like to have a crossbar because they come standard with one. When I ride a Yamaha I go to a handlebar without a crossbar. Why? You guessed it, because they come stock with that style. I usually can tell the difference in stiffness when I go back and forth between each type of bar so this made me want to really test this Fuzion bar. 

The 1-1/8 Fuzion handlebar weighs in at 1lb, 15oz. and was put on several of my test bikes. The easy-to-adjust locking system can be adjusted by simply taking the bar pad off and turning the knob in the middle of the crossbar. If you’re used to running a 7/8 bar with a crossbar on your bike, but want some added strength, the Fuzion is a great option. The downside to using a standard oversize bar with a crossbar is getting added rigidity through the bars that could be hard on the arms/wrists. Setting the Pro Taper Fuzion to the “unlock” position was most noticeable on the 2018 Honda CRF450R due to it being a more rigid feeling chassis. In stock form the Honda comes with a 7/8 handlebar and putting the Fuzion bar on gave me only minimal gains in stiffness through my arms. On braking bumps and hard slap down landings the bar flexed as if I didn’t have a cross bar on. Does it flex more than an oversize crossbar-less handlebar? After spending more time on both types of bars I would say it is very close.

I am very picky when it comes to handlebars and I felt that the Fuzion handlebar (when in the “locked” position) is slightly more precise (than on the unlocked position) when trying to corner on hard pack slick surfaces. Also, only a little more rigidity was felt on braking bumps and on flat landings when “locked”. The smoother the track surfaces the better the Fuzion worked in the locked position. However, 90% of the time I felt the Fuzion felt best when “unlocked”. Especially for the hacked out, choppy, desert tracks I test on.  A few tip overs and one big get off left me praising the Fuzion’s durability. This happened on the CRF450R and the handlebar got twisted in the bar mounts, but the handlebar itself wasn’t bent.

So at the end of the day why not just use an oversize non-crossbar handlebar you ask? The Fuzion handlebar eliminates having “crossbar lovers” cut his/her oversized crossbar handlebars (and avoiding potential handlebar failure to achieve desired flex when he/she demands a crossbar). I like that ProTaper addressed the need for this niche and picky people like myself. Especially for riders that need to see a crossbar yet have flex when he or she rides. Yes, it is more expensive than your average 7/8 handlebar, but it also will last longer in case you are a crasher like these dudes on MX Fails.